Dine Magazine Winter 2021 by Edge Magazine

STONE HOLLOW WINTER BREW BLANE HUNTER PORKY BUTTS BBQ FIZZY FOUNTAIN & LIQUORS â&#x20AC;¢ NICE ROLLZ MORGAN RANCH WAGYU BEEF

Elevating the Nebraska dining experience

FROM SWEET TO SAVORY, DONUTS WILL DELIGHT THIS WINTER

WINTER 2021

EDGE M A G A Z I N E

FEB RUA RY 202 0

OCTOBER 2019

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OMAH A ENTRE 'S SAVVY PRENE UR JAMES MANS KE

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Look for our chef inspired elevated burger build videos in the months to come on facebook. Recipes are paired with the ideal Rotella bun! • Zhug Burger • Calabrian Pepper Burger • Chophouse Burger

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Elevating the Nebraska dining experience VOLUME 2, ISSUE 2 WINTER 2021

PUBLISHER AND OWNER Carole Sprunk (402) 587-2259 // Carole@DineNebraska.com CO-OWNER Michael Meyer (402) 517-0350 // Michael@DineNebraska.com MANAGING EDITOR Kathy Rygg (402) 490-3213 // Kathy@DineNebraska.com

DINE is published quarterly. Content copyright © 2021 DINE Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, without permission in writing from the publisher, Carole Sprunk. Although care has been taken to ensure the accuracy, completeness and reliability of the information provided, DINE assumes no responsibility therefore. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DINE Magazine, PO Box 620, Elkhorn, NE 68022

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Mark Gudgel, Anna Hartman, Dan Hoppen, Katy Spratte Joyce, Holly McAtee, Michael Meyer, and Vera Lynn Petersen DESIGNERS Quentin Lueninghoener and Ben Vankat, Hanscom Park Studio (402) 517-1228 // Contact@HanscomPark.com PHOTO STAFF Christopher Tierney Photography (402) 350-5699 Designing Impressions Photography (402) 321-3928 ADVERTISING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Nicole Buntgen (402) 367-2526 // Nicole@DineNebraska.com Gabby Hellbusch (402) 320-7080 // Gabby@DineNebraska.com

Liz Rease (402) 639-6622 // Liz@DineNebraska.com ADVISORY BOARD Brian O’Malley, Metropolitan Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts Matthew Brown, Advanced Sommelier, V. Mertz

Table of Contents FISH TIPS, MOCKTAILS & FISH AND CHIPS AND VINEGAR

NICE ROLLZ

FIZZY’S FOUNTAIN & LIQUORS

Dear Dine

Pop-up pros

Nostalgic spirit

STONE HOLLOW

MORGAN RANCH

SWEET MAGNOLIAS, SQUARE DONUT & HOLLY’S HEALTHY HOLES

24 Winter wonderland Leap of brews of faith

38 Donut worry, be happy DINENE BRASK A .COM 3

Letter from the publisher Welcome to 2021 and our winter issue of Dine Magazine. Last year was full of ups and downs, and I don’t know about you, but I am ready to start a new year!

FIND THE FLATWARE! Hidden in this issue is the image of a fork and spoon. Be the first to snap a photo of the flatware and share on Facebook and/ or Instagram and tag @dinenebraskamagazine. If you are the first one, you will win a $50 gift card to Vino Mas. One entry per issue, please. Let’s share the love! DINE SCENE chicken salad with gems

sriracha burger with curly fries

Peggy Patzel generously kept the establishment running in the interim, and Adam and Dawn Witchell dove in, learning quickly what appealed to regular customers and what fell flat. Patzel’s daughterin-law, Delores, remains a mainstay in the café, greeting customers with a sunny smile and efficient manner. Paula Stone is the only other employee, serving customers when Delores is occupied with baking or her children’s activities. In the early years, Adam posted the quirky hand-written chalkboard of daily specials on social media. His clever banter and consistent presence soon attracted a wide range of followers, including celebrity chef Andrew Zimmern, popular comedian Larry the Cable Guy, Nebraska State Troopers, local television personalities, and Omahabased “foodies”. In the early days of the Covid-19

shutdown, a loyal Twitter fan from Omaha decided to make the 4-hour round trip to Newman Grove for takeout and offered to bring back a few pies for other Tweeters. The owners agreed, and Adam posted a seemingly innocuous invitation. Within minutes they were inundated with requests. Floored by the response, the tiny team worked well into the wee hours of the morning, hand-crafting close to 50 pies and 85 hand pies, all rolled by hand, baked in a noncommercial oven, and packaged securely. The proverbial “cherry on top” is the personalized message or drawing penned on each parcel. A Target parking lot served as the delivery site, which filled with Twitter fans and local radio personalities all waiting in line to purchase a pie. City Café followers who missed out on the initial pie run made their disappointment known, and soon

44 DINE MAGAZINE

In this issue we feature what has become one of the ultimate comfort foods: donuts. Omaha is full of excellent donut choices, and in our Discover section you will learn about the different takes on donuts from local shops Square Donut, Sweet Magnolias, and Holly’s Healthy Holes. There is truly a donut for everyone! Our Scene section features Kristina Lee with Nice Rollz and how she turned an idea to get by during the pandemic into a viable business venture with her Asian fusion fare. Wagyu beef is a popular choice here in Nebraska and several of our local restaurants offer it on their menu. V. Mertz even hosted a dinner event last fall that featured Wagyu beef from Morgan Ranch out of Burwell, NE, which has become a major supplier to the restaurant industry. Pit Master Blane Hunter with Porky Butts BBQ is our Expert feature. His award-winning approach to BBQ will have you hungry enough to make a trip there if you haven’t been yet. Our Wine, Beer, and Spirts section brings you wine to watch in 2021, Fizzy’s Fountain & Liquors for a nostalgic ice cream drink, and a trip to Beatrice, NE, to visit Stone Hollow for a cozy winter brew. We’ve always had such a vibrant food and beverage scene across the state, and it’s more important than ever that we support it in any way we can to ensure that it not only survives but thrives into the New Year!

Matt Vrzal, former Husker football star and radio personality offered to do a second run. Vrzal is also owner of the popular Piezon’s pizza, and through an inspired partnership, City Café pie fans can pick up a slice or two along with their pizza. Describing the Witchells as hands-on owners is an understatement. They do it all—slinging hash browns in the morning and burgers

DI N ENE BRASKA .COM 45

The flatware hid in the Discover section of the fall issue.

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DEAR DINE: What kind of fish is used in fish and chips? Traditionally, fish and chips is made with batter-fried haddock or cod. 6 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

In an effort to help elevate the Nebraska Dining experience, we answer the questions you’ve always wanted to ask while dining out.

Dear DINE Dear Dine, I want to venture out and try new types of fish, but I don’t know where to start. Do you have any advice? - Sammy J. Dear Sammy, Brian Leimbach, manager of Absolutely Fresh Seafood Market, said his team answers this question daily. He shared, ‘What does it taste like? Does it taste fishy?’ is where the comparison game comes into play. Obviously, the answer to, ‘What does swordfish taste like?’ is swordfish, but if you can give the customer a frame of reference with texture ‘firm, steak-like’ and another fish they may have tried such as ‘in the same family as Opah or Ono’ that usually is enough for them to take the plunge and deviate from their usual rectanglular piece of skinless salmon. Another etiquette issue we run into is people upset that we don’t have a particular item they are looking for. Many popular fish are seasonal, and we believe in playing by the rules as far as buying from reputable and sustainable suppliers. Season durations change every year, and just because it was here once in October, doesn’t mean it will be here this October.” Dear Dine, I love going out with friends, but can no longer drink alcohol. What would be the proper etiquette for ordering a mocktail? - Jillian C. Dear Jillian, It may feel intimidating to ask for a mocktail, however, most bartenders are familiar with how to adapt a drink to suit you. Megan Malone, a managing partner at Tiny House Bar, said, “‘Sure, no problem!’ is the short answer to anyone who is looking for a nonalcoholic drink. Clearly, some recipes, like a martini, are traditionally 100% alcohol and would not adapt well, but plenty of others will. Think of cocktails as a lot like fancy sodas, and pick a style you’d like to try such as fruity, spicy, or

Mocktails can be fun alteratives for anyone avoiding alcohol.

HAVE A RESTAURANTRELATED QUESTION? Email Dine Magazine and we’ll answer in an upcoming issue!

sour. With hot drink season upon us, it brings along plenty of tea, cocoa, coffee, and ciders too. There are all sorts of reasons people choose not to drink; mocktails are increasingly popular. So don’t be shy, be clear about your likes and dislikes, and have fun!” Dear Dine, Why does malt vinegar come with orders of fish and chips? - Matt W. Dear Matt, Isaiah Renner, co-owner of Dire Lion Grille & Chippy food truck, answered this one. He stated, “I think it’s proper, and most Brits would likely agree that malt vinegar is the only condiment needed for fish and chips. At the Dire Lion, we recommend squeezing copious amounts of malt vinegar on our fried fish right when they’re fresh out of the fryer and enjoying them hot. However, after three years of Omahans requesting tartar sauce, we finally caved and created a house-made tartar that’s available by request only (we sneak a little malt vinegar into it). Our fish comes with a side of chips (thick-cut fries, not potato chips) covered in curry-garlic seasoning, which is not necessarily traditional, but we think it’s tasty! This idea originated via the recognition of a strong Indian influence in British Cuisine.” DINENE BRASK A .COM 7

DINE SCENE

Kristina Lee, Nice Rollz 8 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Pop-up P

Nice Rollz becomes a pandemic success story STORY BY DAN HOPPEN PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

ristina Lee was craving a burger. But not just a normal burger. Something special. What did she have available? There was bulgogi marinade in the fridge; why not let some ground beef sit in that overnight? She also had pickled cucumbers, along with some gochujang; wouldn’t that pair nicely with mayo? And what food item isn’t enhanced by an over easy egg? And thus, one of Omaha’s hottest food items was born: the Spicy Bulgogi Burger. The burger’s origin story neatly mirrors that of Nice Rollz, Lee’s Asian fusion pop-up. What started as just an idea, a band-aid to get her through the economic rigors of the COVID-19 pandemic, has matured into a full-fledged concept operating out of Archetype Coffee in Little Bohemia that isn’t afraid to stretch the limits of Korean cuisine and try new ideas. Breakfast egg rolls? Gochujang sloppy joes? Bulgogi street tacos? They’re all fair game at Nice Rollz, where you can never guess what fusion dish Lee will come up with next. “You might see something more familiar. You might see something that you’ve never tried before,” Lee said. “I’m just kind of all over the place with it. It kind of just is me. I like to try new things.” Lee’s parents owned a restaurant in Hastings, NE, that she practically grew up

in. After seeing the hardships of that lifestyle firsthand, Lee wanted nothing to do with the restaurant industry until about five years ago. Her creativity and love of food drew her back in, and after interacting with several great chefs while working events at Dandelion Pop-Up, she fully caught the cooking bug. At the beginning of 2020, she was researching options to open a brick-and-mortar restaurant. Then the pandemic hit. Her restaurant dreams weren’t the only thing put on hold. So too was her career in hair and makeup, as the events she typically attended all over the country were cancelled. “I just had a little freak-out moment. What am I going to do?” Lee said. Slowly, a plan began to materialize. She often made egg rolls for her friends during get-togethers; they’d sometimes share as many as 50 a night. Perhaps that was a viable option. If she cooked egg DINENE BRASK A .COM 9

DINE SCENE

k griddle

Korean egg bread with gochujang sauce

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breakfast egg rolls

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DINE SCENE

hash browns

rolls at home and sold them, that might be enough to get her through until her event schedule repopulated. She set a goal of 100 a week. By the end of her second week of operation, she was selling 150 a day. Her whole house smelled like egg rolls. Lee needed a better solution. It was then that her friend, photographer Josh Foo, intro12 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

duced her to Isaiah Sheese, the owner of Archetype. He wasn’t using Archetype’s kitchen space and offered it to Lee. The rest is history. “It’s been pretty amazing,” Sheese said. “I never really anticipated being part coffee shop, part Korean street food restaurant. One day it smells like coffee, another day it smells like kimchi. It’s been super

fun for me to see how her community has aligned with our community. It’s weirdly been a seamless transition.” What started as just premade egg rolls quickly expanded into an ever-growing menu of gochujang bagels, egg and cheese biscuit sandwiches, and gyeran-ppang (Korean egg bread). Lee has also used the kitchen to source pop-up events at Nite

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DINE SCENE

14 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Owl and Beercade, as well as the now famous monthly burger offering, which customers sign up for online. Lee’s experiences have made her a bit of a “pop-up pro.” It’s not an easy task; Lee describes her emotions during her first pop-up as “wanting to cry and be excited and then cry a little again.” But now that she has so much pop-up experience, not to mention the empowering support of Sheese and Archetype, Lee believes it’s important to help others host pop-up events, including Little Ve’s Latin Vegan Cuisine and local cooks Ryan Cooper and Bryce Coulton. “It’s so important for us to all work together and be great together,” Lee said. “We’re all in this to make people happy and bring each other together with some tasty food.” Behind Lee’s creative dishes is a desire to introduce Omaha diners to Korean cuisine in a way that’s familiar to them. When presented in a taco or burger, new flavors become much more approachable. “I think that’s the segue to traditional Korean cooking,” Lee said. “If you’ve never had Korean cooking or don’t know those flavors, you probably won’t like it when you go to a traditional Korean restaurant because you don’t know what to taste. But if you put it in burger form and taco form and give people familiar elements, it’s going to be like, ‘That’s different, but it’s still familiar to me. This is good.’ Then they’re going to be more open to trying different things.” That notion is best exemplified by an older couple who comes in each weekend to get Korean egg bread, complete with a side of spicy sauce. A cuisine that was previously completely foreign to them is now part of their routine. “It’s just super humbling when someone is like, ‘This is so great. I’ve never tasted anything like it,’” Lee said. “It pumps you up and makes you want to do more and do better and introduce new foods to people. This is food that I grew up on and makes me happy. If I can introduce my personal comfort to someone else and they enjoy it just as much, that just makes me happy. I think that’s the goal for any chef or cook. You hope they enjoy it, and if they further want to know your story, that’s even more special.” Nice Rollz has become such a success that in October, Lee announced it would be permanently operating out of Archetype. While the scale of the DINENE BRASK A .COM 15

DINE SCENE

Archetype Coffee partnership is still developing, both Lee and Sheese are excited about the collaboration. The fortune of Nice Rollz’s rapid ascension isn’t lost on Lee. In a time when so many restaurants are struggling to stay afloat, she’s well aware of how rare her success is. And she’s worked for every ounce of it. She routinely puts in 100hour weeks, mirroring the rigorous work ethic her parents showed her. “She’s just unrelenting as far as her standards and her work ethic,” Sheese said. “She’s super driven and creative, and you don’t find many people that have all those pieces at once. She’s one of the few that does.” That work ethic, combined with a loyal fan base and the support of Archetype, helped Nice Rollz rise to unforeseeable heights. “I could cry thinking about how grateful I am of everyone who supports Nice Rollz,” Lee said. “I can’t believe what it’s become in these few short months, and I’m excited to see where it goes from here. Have I had my hard days? Absolutely. But the end goal of it all trumps all that. It’s been wild, but I’m here for it, and I’m super committed to it.” 16 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

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18 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

DINE EXPERT

BLANE HUNTER serves up award-winning BBQ

The king of BBQ Nebraska may not have the BBQ reputation of its surrounding states yet, but Blane Hunter, BBQ Pitmaster and owner of Porky Butts BBQ, has been contending to put it on the map. With over 130 competitions under his belt since 2013, Hunter has earned many championship titles including the 2016 KCBS National Grand Champion Team of the Year, 2016 KCBS National Ribs Champion, 2017 American Royal Open Brisket Champion, and 2017 American Royal Open World Champion. “My mom grew up walking in the Royals parade, so it was cool for her to see me win it,” said Hunter. The journey to American Royal World Champion began when Hunter was six years old. He grew up in Texas and helped his father with BBQ competitions and chili cookouts. Hunter learned the technique of building BBQ pits from his father. “The two most important things about making a pit are the airflow—moving oxygen in and out, and a well-fueled fire. You want enough oxygen to flow smoke over the meat.” Using the “slow and low” method is important, as well as checking the pH level of the meat and the moisture level of the wood. He shared, “It takes years of knowledge. Lots of people know how to BBQ, but few know how to BBQ great. It is not just starting a fire and letting the meat go.” The most impressive aspect of Hunter’s BBQ technique is that instead of judging doneness of meat by temperature and time, he knows the cook of the meat by touch and color. There are no mystery ingredients to his flavoring other than rendering fat and seasoning with salt, pepper, onion, and garlic. Hunter attended Johnson and Wales University and Fox Valley Technical College for culinary school. After

graduating, he moved to Omaha and took a job as a private chef in 2001. Over a decade later, Hunter’s friend reached out to him about joining his BBQ competition team. Hunter took on his friend’s team name, Porky Butts, which would later become the name of his restaurant. There were many other people who helped Hunter push towards his BBQ success, including his brother, Derek. He explained, “I am very competitive, and my strength comes from my brother. Watching him go through life and trying to compete with him made me want to be as good as him, and my father too.” After winning his 2017 world champion title, Hunter’s family encouraged him to pursue opening a restaurant, so he opened Porky Butts BBQ in August 2019. Hunter knew there would be challenges starting a restaurant, but he is most proud of the team he created. “This is one of the best restaurant groups that I have worked with. We have a great nucleus, not always the most polished, but we have some extremely intelligent young workers that do well with kitchen staff. They are our bright spots.” When it came to training kitchen staff, Hunter found it hard to give up

STORY BY VERA LYNN PETERSEN PORTRAIT BY DESIGNING IMPRESSIONS PHOTOGRAPHY

BLANE HUNTER’S PA S S I O N PORKY BUTTS BBQ 15475 Ruggles St. (531) 466-7343 porkybuttsbbq.com responsibility at first, but after several months of training, he now believes his kitchen manager has an even better skill set than him. “My kitchen manager is from Mexico and is a talented man. His regional cooking is unbelievable and his fusion with BBQ is fun.” What competitions look like now is Hunter traveling with his wife in their 34-foot-trailer, wearing his patriotic lucky socks, and finding the top 10-15 competitions to compete in rather than the 40 or more a year he did prior to opening the restaurant. “We have to make this place right first,” he said. “At the end of the day, you are only as good as the last competition or last brisket you served.”

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DINE WINE

The New Year is the perfect time to try some new reds

Wines to watch in 2021 No matter who you are or what you do, 2020 has been a rough one. And just to kick us while we’re down, the fires that ravaged the west coast this year left many wine producers unable or unwilling to release a 2020 vintage, especially in reds. With that in mind, 2021 holds promise—the promise of a vaccine, the promise of a looming return to normalcy, and also the promise of some exciting new wines coming into or returning to the Omaha market. Here’s a short list of some of the red wines being introduced to Omaha this year that will help make 2021 a little more enjoyable. Arendsig “Inspirational Batch 8” Pinotage 2018 Robertson, South Africa The label says “5400 bottles produced”: that’s 450 cases. How some of them wound up in Omaha, who knows, but be thankful: this wine will make you rethink Pinotage with its smooth drinkability. Circumstance Cabernet Franc 2016 Stellenbosch, South Africa A low 12.5% ABV, this wine is remarkably in-balance, with an elegance that is reminiscent of some of the best chateaux in the world. Domaine de Chateaumar 2018 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France This one is still a baby, so cellar it if you have the space and patience, but if not, it’s drinking really nicely right now. McPrice Myers “Pound for Pound” Zinfandel 2018 Paso Robles, California Varietally correct? Probably not. Really tasty? Most definitely! Slightly hot at

15.6% ABV, it’s surprisingly smooth and easy-drinking—a crowd pleaser. Materra “Midnight” Red Blend 2016 Napa Valley, California Mostly Petit Verdot, this wine is dark, smooth, yet approachable right out of the bottle—22 months on mostly new French oak will do that to a wine. Oak Farm “Tievoli” Red Blend 2018 Lodi, California A spicy blend of 66% Zinfandel, 18% Barbera, 8% Primitivo, and 8% Petite Sirah. The Zin vines are 50+ years, and it has an old vine nature yet offers more than most single-varietals by way of complexity. Remhoogte “Chronicle Cape Blend” 2017 Stellenbosch, South Africa Clearly, South Africa has got it going on right now. This blend of Syrah, Merlot, Cab Sauvignon, and Pinotage is dark, well-structured, and balances subtle barnyard (the term often used to describe the

STORY BY MARK GUDGEL taste of brettanomyces, which is a strand of yeast that often grows in reused barrels and other places) with rich purple fruits and terrific earthy notes. Meadowcroft Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Napa Valley, California Tom Meadowcroft is a boss; this wine proves it. Silverado “Geo” Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Napa Valley, California This is the flagship Cabernet from an estate that produces astonishingly consistent, excellent fruit. A quintessential Napa Cab if ever there was. Vina Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Paso Robles, California Forget any preconceived notions you might be harboring about Paso. This is big-boy Cab with a 20-month mixed-oak regiment that’s reenforced with 19% Petit Verdot. Look for these at local retailers and restaurants in the coming months. Whatever you choose to drink, hopefully it will bring people around the table to have important conversations, kindly, and in civil tones. Cheers to the hope of a new year! DINENE BRASK A .COM 21

Banana Dolphinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Foster Parents

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DINE SPIRITS

Turn back time with a cocktail from FIZZY’S FOUNTAIN & LIQUORS

Nostalgic spirits Ever been at a bar and thought, “if only we could call and order another drink?” At Fizzy’s Fountain & Liquors you can. The cozy booths have phones that dial straight to the bartender, who serves you up a retro cocktail or adult fizzy beverage. Owners Noah and Katie Mock always loved nostalgia. As ‘80s kids, Dirty Dancing, Grease, Crybaby, and Hairspray were their favorite movies. Growing up, Katie’s dad worked at King’s Food Host, a 1950s style diner in Lincoln with phones in the booths that customers used to call in their order. When they decided to create Fizzy’s, they wanted to have the phones in the booths like King’s Food Host. Fizzy’s is located in the former Bohemian Café. The new space has been transformed into a diner and cocktail lounge in 50s style from floor to ceiling. The inspiration came from Katie’s grandparent’s basement bar. Hope Mock, Noah’s mom and a retired interior designer, also helped with the design elements. There are baby-blue leather booths in the front, a sweeping counter bar that cuts through the middle of the bar, and swanky large orange booths in the back that are perfect to meet up with friends to get your night swinging.

Fizzy’s food and drinks are made from scratch. One of the most popular drinks is the Giving Tree, which consists of brown butter infused bourbon, lemon Madeira, bitters, and homemade apple syrup. It’s served in a martini glass and garnished with a metal bar pick with apple slices fanned out on the stick. It’s a full-bodied drink that reminds you of apple pie. Other favorite drinks are the White Russian Slushy, Backseat Bingo Float, and the Scout Master Jim Shake. Noah and Katie’s team workshop new unique cocktails. They kick around ideas and refine the drinks by committee. The team of cocktail crafters like to re-invent popular cocktails from the 50s with modern fresh ingredients, new age spirits, and techniques. Whether you are looking for a date place, a girl’s night out, or a spot to meet your coworkers after work, Fizzy’s is the cat’s pajamas!

The Giving Tree

STORY BY HOLLY McATEE PHOTOS BY JACOB GREVE

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Bryon Belding

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DINE BEER

STONE HOLLOW keeps the spirit of the season alive all winter long

Winter wonderland of brews The transition from fall to winter reminds us of the holiday season with all the great food! Craft beer makes a similar one with darker, spiced beers to warm your spirit. From ales to stouts, you can find variations in the color range from amber to dark black. Often you will find spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and others in these wintertime brews. Stone Hollow Brewing Company in Beatrice, NE, has a tradition of making winter seasonal beers. The head brewer, Bryon Belding, said his fondness for desserts during the holiday season has been a big influence on the beers he creates. He explained there are certain flavors from the cakes, cookies, and candy that can be challenging but extremely fulfilling in crafting beer. One of the intriguing brews Belding has made for this season is a Winter Ale called CinnaBomb made with cinnamon sticks, ginger, coriander, and orange peel. The amber-colored ale has cinnamon flavor upfront with a slightly sweet orange middle and finish. The ginger flavor is present but not overpowering, adding to the experience. Belding said the key to using spices is the right amount so you can taste them but not too strong to mute the flavor of the beer. Some of the other late fall and winter favorites that Belding brews include: • Cherry Cheesecake Ale with cherries, vanilla, and graham cracker notes. • S’mores Porter with chocolate, vanilla,

and marshmallow notes. • Rolo Imperial Stout with caramel and chocolate notes on a nitrogen tap for that smooth, creamy body. If you like ciders, Stone Hollow Brewing creates some unique winter offerings such as Doc Holliday Spiced Cider. Cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg spice up this apple cider. Belding said in the past they created a stronger version for a short pour with whipped cream, making an apple pie like concoction. As February nears, thoughts of Valentine’s Day and chocolate are in most people’s minds. The Mercantile Building, home of Stone Hollow Brewing, and the surrounding area have an annual winter event called the Chocolate Lovers’ Shopping Day Extravaganza. Belding said for the event they get into the theme with a couple of different chocolate-flavored beers for the patrons to enjoy. Wintertime is a time to indulge in the season’s comforts whether it is food or craft beer. Snuggle up with a glass of your favorite winter brew and enjoy! Cheers!

STORY & PHOTOS BY MICHAEL MEYER

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DINE SUPPLIER

LEAP

OF FAITH

MORGAN RANCH in Burwell, NE, has built a world-renowned Wagyu beef operation

STORY BY DAN HOPPEN 26 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

agyu beef is among the most soughtafter cuts of beef in the world. The meat is so wellmarbled, tender, and rich that it can be sold for as much as $500 per pound. Dan Morgan hoped that would be the case when he brought one of America’s first Wagyu herds back from Japan to his family’s ranch in Burwell, NE, in 1992. It’s safe to say, however, he was more optimistic than confident; so worried was

he about his brother Ronnie’s reaction to seeing the thinner cattle that he unloaded the bulls in the dark of night. “I had a hell of a battle with my brother,” Dan said with a laugh. “They were not particularly attractive cattle at that time. That was 25 years ago. He thought I was smoking something other than Marlboro.” But, as he would with so many others over the years, Dan won Ronnie over with the incredible buttery flavor of Wagyu. The meat has a much higher intramuscular fat content than traditional beef, and that fat has a lower melting point. These factors combine to give wagyu a buttery, melt-in-your-mouth texture that now has diners demanding it

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DINE SUPPLIER in droves. “There’s a tenderness to it that there isn’t in commercial beef,” said Scott Kleeb, Director at Morgan Ranch. “There’s a richness and depth of the beef flavor. If you like beef, this is like beef plus.” Morgan Ranch is now one of the larger purebred Wagyu operations owned by a single family in the world. It has 176 restaurant customers, including more than 100 Michelin-starred restaurants and steakhouses in Singapore, Hong Kong, Japan, Germany, The Netherlands, Austria, and the United States. Morgan Ranch beef can also be found in some of Omaha’s finest restaurants, including V. Mertz, The Boiler Room, and The Grey Plume. Morgan Ranch offers direct to customer sales in the United States, Europe, and Japan as well. Morgan Ranch started long before anyone in the U.S. had heard of Wagyu. The ranch began in 1934 when Ollie and Alex Morgan left the drought-stricken plains of New Mexico and settled their herd of Longhorn cattle in north-central Nebraska. The ranch transferred hands to Ollie’s brother Dan and his wife Doris in 1956, and it’s been a family-owned operation ever since. There are currently four generations of Morgans living and working on the ranch. The ranch shifted to focusing on Hereford cattle, which it still raises. But it’s become most known for taking a chance on Wagyu beef long before it was trendy. The move looks genius now, but it was a major risk at the time. In the early days, most chefs, restaurateurs, and other buyers balked at Wagyu because of the price. Wagyu cattle take longer to reach harvest weight, so they’re a lot more expensive to raise. Kleeb compared Wagyu to making a soup or stew; you can make a good stew in a matter of hours. But the longer you let the flavors develop, the more rich and deep they become, creating a more rewarding and delicious product in the end. “Genetically, the breed is focused toward eating quality, as opposed to the American breeds of cattle, which are focused on a race to the finish line,” Dan Morgan said. “With Wagyu, it takes longer. You harvest them when they’re ready, as opposed to the production after X number of days. It required a philosophical attitude change to begin raising a product based on its eating experience and its quality concerns as compared to only the cost of raising a product.” The general public didn’t know this yet, 28 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

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DINE SUPPLIER

New York Strip Tartare with butter cracker & garden salsa powder from V. Mertz

CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

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Beef Pâté Saam with pickled vegetables from V. Mertz

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DINE SUPPLIER Slow Braised Short Rib with hazelnut and confit onion from V. Mertz

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Reserve Tenderloins with Foie Gras from V. Mertz

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Beef Pepperone and Bresaola from V. Mertz

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MARTY STEINHUASEN

which led to a lot of “sticker shock” as the Morgans traveled to events to market their cattle. Dan knew the adaptation process wouldn’t happen overnight, but the going was slower than he would have liked, and at times he felt lost. “Nobody had ever tried to do it before,” he said. “No rancher or even meat company had gone out and tried to introduce a specific brand label of product into a niche market. There weren’t any textbooks around to read, and there weren’t any people to ask the questions of. There was a lot of trial and error.” Dan’s hard work finally paid off in 2000 when he participated at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, CO. He grabbed a drink at the bar at The Little Nell, where Carlos Nieto, one of Chicago’s most wellknown and respected chefs, was sampling wines with his wife. Dan struck up with a conversation with the two, then invited them down to the kitchen for a private tasting. Though Carlos “almost dropped his glass” when he learned the price of the meat he was tasting, the Nietos were completely sold after sampling a few ribeye and tenderloins. Now Morgan Ranch had its first Wagyu customer, and things began to get a bit easier. “When Carlos endorses your product, you have some authority when you go in to start visiting another chef,” Dan said. “The chef community is very small, so there were a lot of referrals. Carlos’ restaurant was the V. Mertz of Highland Park in Chicago. All the young guys wandered through there in their training and internships, so they knew everybody and were able to make some phone calls for me.” Even as Wagyu has moved from a niche product to one mass-produced by major corporations, Morgan Ranch is going to keep doing what made it successful originally: take it slow, supply the best product possible, and keep things in the family. “People want to know that there’s a face behind their food, that there’s a handshake that can be had,” Kleeb said. “They want to know that there’s not something behind the curtain. I’d like us to be part of the story and getting people better beef, not just beef, and allowing them to participate in what we love, which is the rolling hills and getting up at 2 o’clock in the morning when there’s a blizzard to check every cow. The growth of Wagyu is giving us a chance to retell the story in a way those larger operations can’t.” DINENE BRASK A .COM 37

DINE DISCOVER

DONUT WORRY, BE HAPPY Cozy up in the chill of winter with OMAHA’S DISTINCT DONUTS

STORY BY KATY SPRATTE JOYCE PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

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o donut or to doughnut? That is the question. According to Smithsonian Magazine, Donuts/doughnuts can trace their origin to the Dutch olykoeks--”oily cakes” back when New York was still New Amsterdam. But the widely regarded inventress of America’s favorite pastry was Elizabeth Gregory, who packed doughy treats with nuts and citrus for her son’s long voyages as a sea captain. Fast forward to the Roaring ‘20s, when the first doughnut machine turned the snack into an assembly-line sweet and affordable sensation. In the following century, these doughy delicacies have only grown more beloved as an American culinary treasure.

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DINE DISCOVER

Sweet Magnolia

Square Donut 40 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Square Donut

Hollyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Healthy Holes

Omaha is no exception to the donut craze and offers three distinct approaches. (Though it’s notable to share that all three businesses spell it the short, Americanized “donut” way.) Square Donut, a less than year-old West Omaha shop, embraces a square shape and more of a light and fluffy beignet-style donut than a traditional take. Owner Elizabeth Pooley said, “They almost melt in your mouth.” Pooley also shared that Square crafts a more elegant and elevated snacking experience with artisanal donuts. “These are not sugar coma donuts.” Square Donuts are only available at the brick and mortar shop near 156th and West Maple Road. Each day, 22 varieties of “dailies” can be purchased by the public. Top sellers include the blueberry cake donut, maple bacon, and chocolate-topped raised donut. The donut shop also offers a donut of the month. December was a kid-friendly Snowflake Donut, designed to help kids get excited about the winter season even during a pandemic. Other past favorites have been the star-studded Galaxy Donut from August, and the owner’s favorite, November’s Vanilla Coconut Cream. Besides these regulars, Square Donut does custom orders, like gender reveal donuts, themed treats for weddings or birthday parties, and even giant donut letters and numbers. This year looks to be an exciting one for the new venture as well, with donut breakfast sandwiches coming soon, a quiche donut in development for a spring debut, and potentially having designated daily flavors. Another excellent Omaha donut can be found at Sweet Magnolias Bake Shop, which has been serving up goodness in the Joslyn Castle neighborhood since 2016. Owner Katina Talley

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DINE DISCOVER

Sweet Magnolias Sweet Magnolias owner Katina Talley

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Sweet Magnolias

always knew she wanted to be in food and has parlayed her food science background into owning her own bakery in her mid20s. Talley shared that donuts are a small but substantial part of the business, adding that “Donuts have absolutely blown up in popularity during the pandemic, and we have been selling hundreds each day.” Donuts make up about 20% of her total sales, up from roughly 15% in past years. Sweet Magnolias, often shortened to Sweet Mags, focuses on all baked, classic cake donuts, with three flavors that are always available plus fun seasonal iterations that rotate. The three all the time flavors are churro (cinnamon sugar), vanilla sprinkle, and chocolate sprinkle. It’s also noteworthy to point out that all Sweet Mags glazes are handmade from scratch, like everything else in the bake shop. Another longtime customer favorite flavor, pistachio, is occasionally available, while the owner’s number one pick remains the chocolate vegan donut. Talley shared that other favorite donuts have been last summer’s cashew tahini (“so nutty and so good”) and orange cardamom (“a very spring flavor”). Winter customers can expect some fun season-

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DINE DISCOVER

Holly’s Healthy Holes Holly’s Healthy Holes owner Holly Wiest

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Holly’s Healthy Holes

Holly’s Healthy Holes al goodies as well, like maple almond butter and peppermint hot chocolate with marshmallow glaze. Sweet Mags’s products can be picked up curbside at its midtown bakery or at partners like the Grove Juicery, Amateur Coffee Parlor, and Midtown Reality Coffee. Just because donuts have long been considered a diet cheat doesn’t mean they can’t be prepared in a healthier fashion. That’s just what Holly Wiest, founder of Holly’s Healthy Holes, aims to do each day. She shared, “Donuts don’t have to be indulgent and can fit into a healthy lifestyle,” which Wiest discovered during her own bodybuilding journey. Donuts have long been her favorite food, so she asked herself, “How many ways can I make a donut healthy?” All of her flavors have zero processed sugars or fats and no artificial flavorings. Whey protein is also used to add a punch of protein power to the sweet treats. Wiest is constantly experimenting with new flavors and ingredients, but the four original donuts are always on the menu. These include maple glazed, chocolate peanut butter, lemon chia, and double chocolate chocolate (nicknamed “dub choc” by the team). The owner also stated that nostalgic flavors sell really well, like the popular

Holly’s Healthy Holes

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DINE DISCOVER

Square Donut

Square Donut owner Elizabeth Pooley

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Square Donut

Girl Scout Cookie series, cookie dough, snickerdoodle, and more. “All are designed to embrace eating with joy and food freedom,” Wiest added. Holly’s Healthy Holes has also enjoyed working with CBD as an ingredient for its anti-inflammatory properties; a Bananas Foster with CBD was especially well-received by customers. Fans of Holly’s Healthy Holes can look forward to new winter flavors like the aptly named Holly Berry, a chocolate-covered strawberry concoction plus a gingerbread donut. Wiest added, “We dehydrate fresh ginger in house, then candy it in natural sugar.” Besides offering free, contactless delivery four days a week in Omaha and one day a week in Lincoln, the bakery’s products can be enjoyed at Karma Koffee, Myrtle & Cypress, and Zen Coffee to name a few. It’s easy to see that Omaha has plenty to offer in terms of donuts, from a healthy twist, to a classic cake donut, to a square beignet-style treat, the “Gateway to the West” showcases donut creativity on all fronts.

Square Donut

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