Edible Austin Summer 2024

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SUMMER 2024 | Issue 91
edibleaustin.com 1 CONTENTS 2 FROM THE PUBLISHER 4 NOTABLE EDIBLES What's Happening Around Austin 8 EDIBLE ENDEAVOR Treehouse Utopia Chef J. Rodi is Branching Out 12 SPOTLIGHT ON LOCAL Poeta is the Latest from the Intero Duo 14 LOCAL LEGENDS Eastside Legend Mi Madres 18 EDIBLE ESCAPES Halter Ranch Opens in Fredericksburg 22 EDIBLE VARIETALS Texas Roussanne is Here 32 FARMER'S DIARY Texas Watermelon Season COVER Texas Watermelon (photo compilation by Ralph
THIS PAGE Poeta Pasta (photo by Monique Threadgill) Watts Farm (photo by Shane Watts) RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE 26 FIG, BALSAMIC AND FETA PIZZA 28 PEACH GALETTE Summer 12 32
Yznaga)

As the long, sun-drenched days of summer settle over our beautiful city and the Texas Hill Country, it’s a perfect time to explore some of the vibrancy that our local food and drink scene has to offer.

First, we raise a glass to the Texas Roussanne wines and winemakers that are making waves in the viticulture world. Known for their rich, full-bodied profiles and versatile pairings, these wines are becoming a staple in local vineyards and beyond. Our Edible Varietal feature explores the craftsmanship and passion of the Texas winemakers who are putting this varietal on the map.

In our Local Legends segment, we pay tribute to Mi Madres, an institution that has been serving the heart and soul of Austin for more than 34 years. Their story is one of tradition, family, and unwavering commitment to quality. From their humble beginnings to becoming a beloved fixture in the community, Mi Madres embodies the spirit of perseverance and dedication. This heartfelt piece will surely resonate with anyone who cherishes the taste of home and the warmth of familial ties.

This summer’s Spotlight on Local brings you an inside look at Poeta Restaurant, the latest venture by the talented team behind Intero, that recently opened inside The Frances Modern Inn. The owners’ passion for creating memorable dining experiences shines through in every detail, making Poeta a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts. Our feature provides a glimpse into their creative process and the inspiration behind this exciting new addition to Austin's dining scene.

Lastly, our Farmer’s Diary takes you to the lush fields of Texas watermelon farms, where the season’s sweetest and juiciest fruits are harvested. These farms not only contribute to our local economy but also bring the quintessential taste of summer to our tables.

If you are looking to try some new dishes this summer, be sure to check out our fig, balsamic and feta pizza and our peach galette recipe. Both incorporate delicious, sun-kissed fruits of the season and are sure to delight your friends and family.

Thank you for being part of our Edible Austin community, and for sharing in the passion and pride we have for our area’s culinary treasures. Cheers to a vibrant and flavorful summer!

PUBLISHER/EDITOR

Monique Threadgill monique@atxpublications.com

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/ CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Ralph Yznaga ralph@atxpublications.com

COPY EDITORS

Claire Cella

Stacey Ingram Kaleh

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Ashley Brown

Stacey Ingram Kaleh

Nathan Mattise

Ava Motes

Pauline Stevens

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Pauline Stevens

ADVERTISING SALES

Grace McCormick grace@atxpublications.com

Stephanie Walsh stephanie@edibleaustin.com

CONTACT US: 512-441-3971

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New from L’Oca d’Oro co-owners Adam Orman and chef Fiore Tedesco is Bambino, a casual all-day pizzeria steeped in Northeast nostalgia. True to its name, which means “little child” in Italian, Bambino is a playful and family-friendly concept taking cues from Orman and Tedesco’s respective upbringings in Pennsylvania and New York state.

Bambino’s menu hinges on Roman-style pies made with naturally fermented sourdough and organic flour from nearby Barton Springs Mill. They feature classics such as the rosso with tomato, garlic, olive oil and oregano, as well as signature creations like the Coppa Cabana with house coppa, orange marmalade, mozzarella and oregano. Non-pizza offerings include antipasti like Beets & Brittle with roasted beets and pistachio brittle and a salumi piatto with speck, soppressata, mortadella and pickles. There’s also soft-serve gelati, a full bar and kids menu options such as chicken nuggets with marinara.

“L’Oca was a perfect first concept for us to try out so many of the things we wanted to do in the kitchen and behind the bar. Now, we get to do it again at Bambino, with greater knowledge, and also fewer restrictions because of the playfulness of the concept,” says Orman. The restaurateurs' fine dining flair is evident in their carefully curated ingredients, but the East Austin pizza joint has a decidedly comeas-you-are atmosphere with first-come, first-served seating and a spacious outdoor playground to boot.

Visit Bambino at 979 Springdale Rd., Ste. 153 and check out bambinoaustin.com

NY CHEF BACK TO THE HILL COUNTRY

New to the team of the Hill Country wine aficionados at William Chris Vineyards is executive chef Julie E. Farias. After making her mark in the New York culinary scene, Farias has returned to Texas to head up the vineyard’s on-site culinary experiences.

Farias began her over-20-year hospitality career at the Four Seasons Hotel in Austin before enrolling at the Culinary Institute of America in New York. She’s consulted for projects in Miami and Los Angeles, and most recently worked at the James Beard award-winning restaurant Frenchette in New York City. Now, Farias is bringing her culinary expertise back where it all started.

As William Chris’s executive chef, Farias spearheads all culinary components at the vineyard, including food and wine pairings for member release parties, private events, and the William Chris seasonal Vineyard Table Experience. She is focused on harmonizing seasonal ingredients with the vineyard’s old world-style, Texan-grown wines and mission to educate guests about those locally produced varietals. “I want to present the best collaboration opportunities between food and wine to elevate

all culinary experiences at William Chris,” says Farias. “I leverage my expertise in sourcing, along with my passion for wine, to provide the team with confident choices. And most importantly, I love feeding everyone.”

Farias and the rest of the William Chris Vineyards team are at 10352 US-290, Hye, Texas. Visit williamchriswines.com to learn more.

LOVE & COOKIES ADDS NEW LOCATIONS

Perhaps the only things better than love and cookies are two new bakeries of the same name from award-winning home baker Ashley Cameron. The popular Lakeway bakery Love & Cookies first opened in 2021 and has since become a local mini-chain of sorts, touting two additional brick-and-mortar locations in the Westlake and South Lamar neighborhoods.

Austinites may recognize Love & Cookies from grocery shelves, as the brand began retailing at H-E-B after winning first place in the 2022 Quest for Texas Best competition for its frozen cookie dough. But even as Love & Cookies is rapidly taking Central Texas by storm, the bakery remains decidedly homegrown.

Love & Cookies got its start in Cameron's home kitchen, where she often baked her grandmother’s top-secret cookie recipe with her son after he was diagnosed with Kawasaki disease. Because the disease can cause inflammation, Cameron tweaked the recipes to include only high-quality, preservative-free ingredients — a standard she still maintains today. Cameron went on to sell the cookies

that brought her family comfort, first to friends, and later to the community at large at her flagship location.

The two new Love & Cookies hubs feature beloved flavors named after Cameron’s family and friends, such as the Charlie Cash (chocolate chip) and the Susie (made with cranberry, vanilla and pecan). The bakeries also offer gluten-free varieties and customizable “Jenny Cakes,” which can be decorated with company logos, names or themed phrases. There’s indoor seating available for 20 guests (give or take), as well as a full coffee bar and ice cream scoops from Howdy Homemade.

Love & Cookies’ new locations are now open at 3736 Bee Cave Rd in Westlake and at 1701 S Lamar Blvd. Visit cookiesilove.com for more information.

ENDO JOINS AUSTIN SUSHI SCENE

An expertly crafted omakase experience just blew in from New York City. Endo, named after chef Endo Yasuhiro, takes its cues from the renowned Sushi Nakazawa restaurant with a 20-course tasting curated for Austin diners. The restaurant, which is now open in the former Daiboku Ramen space, brings an intimate 10-seat sushi bar to the West Campus area.

Though Endo joins an already robust sushi scene in Austin, the food is set apart by chef Endo’s dedication to precision, tradition and simplicity. The menu highlights preparations dating back to Japan’s Edo period, such as precise dry aging, meticulous salt curing and zuke, a soy sauce-based marinade. Endo also sources its seafood from the East Coast and Toyosu Market in Tokyo, Japan.

Endo’s bar also features signature cocktails like a Toki Highball and Tomu Collins with Roku gin, as well as rare Japanese whiskies, sake, beer and wine. The omakase also includes options for drink pairings.

Endo is located at 609 W. 29th St. in Austin. Reservations are available on OpenTable, and at sushiendo.com.

ANTONELLI’S OPENS NEW TASTING ROOM IN SOUTH AUSTIN

Popular Hyde Park cheese shop Antonelli’s has expanded its reach to south Austin with a new tasting room in the Lamar Union commercial center. The new location is more interactive than their original shop, offering cheese tastings with wine pairings, cheese classes and collaborative pop-ups. And while guests can pre-order cheese trays from the new South Lamar spot, it’s best to leave shopping lists at home since individual cheeses aren’t for sale on-site. Cheese lovers can continue visiting the Hyde Park cheese shop for their cut-to-order and charcuterie needs, but the tasting room is best enjoyed as an educational and social experience.

Cheese classes at the new tasting room rotate monthly and span dozens of topics and themes, ranging from the basic “Cheese 101” to explorations of specific regions through the “Taste of Place” series. Although public classes are not exactly new to Antonelli’s (they continue to be offered at the Hyde Park location), the tasting room will also sell paired wines, beers, ciders and other beverages to enjoy during the event. The new location also touts private party offerings in the community tasting room, perfect for corporate gatherings, bridal parties or birthdays.

Antonelli’s Tasting Room is now open at 1100 South Lamar Boulevard. To view their event calendar, book a private party and learn more, visit antonellischeese.com.

Eastside dinner and drinks just got an American-Italian upgrade with Casa Bianca, a new restaurant and cocktail bar in the former EastSide Tavern space on East Cesar Chavez.

Bianca specializes in handmade pastas and other American-Italian dishes such as crispy skin branzino with caramelized fennel purée and pistachio salsa verde, as well as the cavatelli with lamb, sunflower seed ragu and fermented honey. There’s also cicchetti, which is Italian for small bites, and a raw bar with a daily selection of oysters.

Casa Bianca is great as both a main event or pit stop for longer evening adventures. In addition to its spacious dining room and garden seating area, the restaurant also has a rooftop lounge, Bar Alcina, with its own menu for breezy cocktails, wine and snacks. The beverage program highlights riffs on classics like negronis and martinis, as well as creative new-Italian offerings like the Svenzoni with acidified red grape, campari, aquavit and gin.

Casa Bianca is open for dinner service at 1510 East Cesar Chavez Street. Hours of operation are set to expand, so check out casabiancaatx.com for updates and the full menu.

edibleaustin.com 5 4 Summer 2024
L’OCA D’ORO OWNERS DEBUT NEW PIZZERIA BAMBINO WILLIAM CHRIS VINEYARDS BRINGS Left: Endo photo by Jessica Attie Middle: Antonelli's Tasting Room by Hayden Walker Right: Casa Bianca Photo by Richard Casteel Top Left: Bambino photo by Jody Horton Top and Middle: Photos by William Chris Vineyards
NOTABLE EDIBLES WORDS BY AVA MOTES
Right: Love & Cookies photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelley CASA BIANCA RESTAURANT AND BAR OPENS IN EAST AUSTIN Casa

THE LONG GOODBYE SERVES UP COFFEE & COCKTAILS

The Long Goodbye, a new bar in the Cherrywood shopping complex bearing the same name, is serving up coffee and cocktails alongside food trucks, a vintage shop and more. This multi-use space consists of two bars, an indoor lounge and an outdoor patio. There’s also a clothing store, Howdy’s Vintage, and two food trucks on site: La Santa Barbacha for tacos and Fleet Coffee for more cafe-like drinks and bites.

The Long Goodbye’s indoor bar spotlights classic cocktails such as an espresso martini made with cold brew from Fleet, while the outdoor bar trends towards agave-based drinks like a Oaxacan martini and alcoholic spins on aguas frescas from La Santa Barbacha. There are also frozen drinks, wines and familiar Central Texas beers available for patio-goers. And cross-business collaborations continue with events like Sunday brunches featuring bloody marys, micheladas, mimosas and margaritas and food from La Santa Barbacha.

Although the name The Long Goodbye aptly captures the come-and-stay-awhile

function of the space, it is actually derived from a satirical neo-noir film of the same name directed by Robert Altman. The bar is modeled after the style of the film with midcentury furniture, art deco detailing and a neon sign that waxes nostalgic for sippers and shoppers alike.

To try The Long Goodbye, visit 2808 Manor Road or thelonggoodbyeatx.com.

TOASTY BADGER DINER ARRIVES ON SOUTH CONGRESS

Toasty Badger Diner on South Congress is kicking it back to the ‘70s with classic comfort food and retro decor. The restaurant is one of three new concepts from Lobos Hospitality, an ambitious group that’s new to

the Austin dining scene.

Toasty Badger is housed in a former Southside Flying Pizza, which was previously Austin’s first Dairy Queen. Though Toasty Badger has brought a homier feel to the space with comfy booths and warm tiling, the casual and family-friendly atmosphere remains.

Like any diner worth its salt, Toasty Badger has plenty of coffee and fresh- squeezed juice and offers all-day breakfast with an emphasis on large portions of staples such as classic griddle cakes, French toast with five-spice pecans, omelets and eggs benedict. For lunch, which is also served all day, there are sandwiches and burgers, as well as healthier offerings like grain bowls and salads. After 5 p.m., guests can order from the dinner menu, which features throwback dishes such as meatloaf and pot roast.

Toasty Badger is at 2206 S. Congress Ave. See more at loboshospitality.com/toastybadger.

AVA MOTES is an Austin native who follows the city's expanding food scene with an eye for the people and stories behind the menus. She loves trying new restaurants, exploring farmers markets, and relaxing in cafes with a good book in hand.

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Treehouse Utopia

TREETOP HIDEAWAYS DESIGNED FOR ADULTS

As the concept of treehouse lodging takes off in the Texas Hill Country and beyond, I’ve heard people say staying in a treehouse evokes the nostalgia and playful spirit of childhood. But I have to say that while most kids enjoy hanging out in a tree, it was the adult in me who found Treehouse Utopia to be … well … just that: utopia.

A nd it turns out that owner Laurel Waters had that in mind as well — these hotels in the treetops aren’t designed for children. In fact, kids and dogs need to be left at home so that grownups can make the most of what this place is all about: peace and quiet in nature.

Waters earned her culinary degree at Le Cordon Bleu in France and worked at three restaurants in Provence. All the while, she had a French antique business on Main Street in Utopia, Texas, and has been importing antiques to the store for 22 years. Utopia is where she also opened the upscale restaurant, The Laurel Tree, which is what led to the creation of Treehouse Utopia.

W hy all of this in the tiny town of Utopia? “Half of me grew up in Utopia,” explained Waters. “My folks bought land here in 1972, so to me it was the right place to create a destination restaurant. And the Treehouse Utopia property was our family swimming hole for forty years.”

Waters also owns Bear’s Den in Leakey and explains that the two small towns, with easy access to Garner State Park and Lost Maples State Natural Area, offer visitors the opportunity for a really full experience. She feels blessed to be able to facilitate these meaningful moments for people. “I’ve loved every minute of it, seeing the joy in people who come to stay. Nobody ever wants to leave.”

Th at was the idea behind Treehouse Utopia. In 2018, Waters and Pete Nelson of Nelson Treehouses and the popular “Treehouse Masters” television series partnered to design these tree lodgings after he built the treehouse for The Laurel Tree. After diners enjoyed a world-class meal in a tree, their only “complaint” was always that they wanted to sleep in a tree, too. I certainly didn’t want to leave, either. As an outdoorsy person who also appreciates a nice bed, I was super excited about the combination of comfort, tasteful design and immersion in nature that I found at Treehouse Utopia. These are not playhouses for kiddos — they are architectural marvels where people can take the time to just be … surrounded outside by a forest of ancient cypress trees, grazing deer and birds, and inside by natural wood walls and ceilings and a plethora of artistic details.

G uests can choose to stay in one of four houses — Carousel, Chappelle, Chateau or Biblioteque — each with a distinct design and personality. The building of Chappelle, the first treehouse, was featured on an episode of “Treehouse Masters,” where Waters explains she was clear on her vision for this one, inspired by her time in France, where every town is centered around a chapel or church.

W hile all are lovely, it was not a difficult choice for me to stay in Biblioteque. It boasts a beautiful (and very warm) electric fireplace, branch lighting fixtures over the bed and books, books, books. I never stopped discovering new artistic delights as I looked around — treasures Waters has collected, mostly from France, over the years. I’ve never seen so many Tiffany-style lamps in one space. I’m a nut for ambient lighting and stained glass, and the lamps create an enchanting, cozy, romantic atmosphere.

O utside of the decor, the most amazing trait of the Biblioteque, without a doubt, is that it is built around an 800-year-old cypress tree, with interior windows allowing you to gaze at the massive trunk from each living area, even the bathroom. Sleeping among this tree’s branches felt like a privilege. I have been known to literally hug trees, and while this one is too large to hug, I was in awe of a tree that has survived 800 Texas summers, well over a thousand freezes, and who knows what else.

Nelson explains how these trees are able to support the structures with zero harm to them: “We build with only the highest-quality hardware and tried-and-tested techniques that foster the longevity of living trees. Every build starts with an arborist coming out to examine the tree and advise the builders how to proceed to protect the trees.”

The location — a couple of miles off the main “drag,” if you can call it that, of Utopia — allows for one of the most alluring amenities: silence. I heard nothing but the quiet babble of the Sabinal River and the chirping of birds. Yes, there were other guests, but somehow, you just didn’t hear one another! I had a hard time deciding where to be at times, sitting by the river, enjoying the porch up in the trees, or relaxing on one of the property’s comfy gliding benches.

To make up for the lack of a kitchenette, Waters provides guests with a selection of hand-baked goodies for breakfast including homemade breads and muffins, along with tasty granola, fresh fruits and yogurts. I felt truly pampered enjoying such a tasty and satisfying meal without having to leave the comfort of the house.

These treehouses are by no means rustic, and that’s reflected in the rate. But if you’re able to splurge, this one-of-a-kind experience is well worth it.

Plan a trip today at treehouseutopia.com

8 Summer 2024
EDIBLE ENDEAVOR
Left: Pete Nelson and Laurel Waters Photos by Treehouse Utopia

Branching Out

CHEF J RODI WINS JUNIOR LEAGUE OF AUSTIN FELLOWSHIP

Cooking may technically be a science, but Jen Rodriguez — better known as Chef J. Rodi — knows it isn’t always an exact one. She’s a big advocate for experimenting with new flavors and creatively salvaging kitchen mistakes, even when it takes a dish in a new direction.

For Rodriguez, the culinary world is vast, personal, creative and about much more than following a recipe.

Rodriguez is the owner of 3 Small Plates, a catering company that transports diners around the globe through dynamic meals served in the comfort of their homes. And though she’s already known for sharing practical wisdom during her events, she’ll soon be expanding the educational component of her business with the help of a $10,000 Austin Entertains fellowship from the Junior League of Austin.

The fellowship, which has spotlighted women in Austin’s culinary scene for the past eight years, will support Rodriguez’s plan to launch cooking classes and other hands-on events such as “foodie fights” (chef-led cooking battles). These events will launch this year, she says, and will be open to the public as well as available for private reservations. Through these programs, Rodriguez wants to empower home cooks with the skills, flavor know-how and confidence to experiment in their own kitchens.

“I noticed that when I'm cooking, I'll take some shortcuts. And I said, you know, this would be helpful to somebody,” Rodriguez says. “A lot of cookbooks don't meet you where you are. A lot of cooking classes don't meet you, so we want to be a little different with our classes.”

Rodriguez's plans for the classes include dissecting students’ favorite dishes to help identify their preferred flavor profiles, teaching

recovery tips for common cooking errors, and instilling an appreciation for the cultures and creativity behind global recipes.

“It’s those little things that elevate people's palate and education,” Rodriguez says. “Food is more than just consumption, it’s more than just nutrition … it’s an experience.”

Rodriguez says she envisions 3 Small Plates as a tree branching into new endeavors while remaining rooted in its foundational catering services. These range from “economy class” meal drop-offs to “first class” experiences with the chef and crew onsite. An evening with 3 Small Plates could feature anything from traditional Spanish tapas to African fritters or a niçoise salad. And every dish is served with an opportunity to ask questions and share personal anecdotes. By cooking around the world, Rodriguez has learned the destination is only half the fun.

“Food is just the conduit,” Rodriguez says. “Whenever you go over to somebody's house, invariably you end up at the kitchen table and nobody moves. We're eating and you just keep talking, and you learn so much.”

Rodriguez, a Fort Worth native, first discovered a passion for connecting people through food while watching her grandmother prepare southern meals for family dinner parties. She then went on to host dinners of her own, first on military bases abroad where she worked as an award-winning public affairs specialist and later through her second career as a chef. Now, as she shares her love of global cuisine through events and forthcoming classes, she hopes her guests leave with a greater appreciation for the conversation and discovery that great food can ignite.

To learn more about 3 Small Plates’ catered offerings and stay up-to-date on new educational endeavors, visit 3smallplatescatering.com.

10 Summer 2024 Estate Winery & Vineyard Tasting Room Fredericksburg Main Street Tasting Room Wine Tastings & Tours / Elevated Visitor Experiences Private & Public Events / Chef’s Table Luncheon beckervineyards.com
EDIBLE ENDEAVOR
WORDS BY AVA MOTES Left: Chef J. Rodi Photo Courtesy of Jen Rodriguez

AP oeta in M otion

THE FOUNDERS OF INTERO DEBUT NEW RESTAURANT ON EAST 11TH

WORDS BY NATHAN MATTISE | PHOTOS BY MONIQUE THREADGILL

t this point, it’s hard to believe that there is something chefs Ian Thurwachter and Krystal Craig haven’t done in the Austin culinary scene. Due to their mastery of all things savory (Thurwachter) and sweet (Craig), the two native Austinites have been industry fixtures here for their entire careers. Thurwachter spent time as a chef at staples like Vespaio, Lamberts and Jeffrey’s, while Craig co-founded her first dessert company at 21-years-old and then produced delectable creations for some of Austin's top establishments. But most notably, together, they opened Intero in 2018. Within a year, Texas Monthly identified it as one of the state’s best restaurants. Today, it sits among the city’s iconic modern establishments.

A s Intero approached its fifth birthday last year, however, Craig and Thurwachter weren’t ready to settle. They had ambitions to expand, both to try something new and to create new opportunities for the Intero team to advance their careers. Originally, Craig was toying with a more dessert-focused concept (she mentions Intero’s past amaro-chocolate pairing events as inspiration), but then she met Vicki Faust, founder of The Frances Modern Inn in East Austin.

“ We were looking to expand, but originally it wasn’t Poeta,” Craig explains when detailing the origin of her and Thurwachter’s new all-day hotel cafe. “I had done a concept that was very centered on desserts and dessert pairings, but when looking for a space, we met Vicki and they were in the middle of looking for a restaurant partner. We started talking and I said, ‘You know, in the back of my head I’ve always wanted to do an allday Italian place.’ I never wrote a business plan as fast as that in my life.”

In May 2023, the Poeta team started work in earnest. Roughly half a year later, that idea in the back of Craig’s head was actualized. That December, the restaurant opened in The Frances Modern Inn.

Craig had once worked at an all-day cafe — managing at the now closed RJ’s Cafe in West Lake in the early 2000s — but her passion for this style of restaurant really grew out of her love of the cafés she enjoyed in places like New Orleans or Italy.

“I like places where you can go and it’s casual and you want to hang out, whether it’s having a coffee or getting an easy lunch,” Craig says. “I think in so many books I’ve read or movies I’ve watched, there are scenes at the hotel lobby restaurant and there’s a fun feeling to it. The one thing I still remember from The Catcher in the Rye is he’s always hanging in the hotel lobby bar. There’s something about it that inherently has a casual, relaxed feeling. I just love the sound of a daytime restaurant — clinks of coffee cups and silverware — and you lose that at night with dinner a bit.

I also love breakfast food and I wanted to do simple and easy things, casual fare, and we couldn’t ever do any of this stuff at Intero because it’s just dinner.”

Despite that affinity for all-day cafes, running one was still a test for Craig and Thurwachter. While Intero only serves dinner six days a week, Poeta offers brunch, happy hour and dinner every day of the week. Craig notes just perfecting the basic logistics has been different — a need for more staff, to optimize the placement of various kitchen elements, and to navigate things like shift changes.

At Poeta, Craig and Thurwachter have menu sections devoted to eggs, paninis and sweets and pastries. The brunch starters include Craig’s and Thurwachter’s takes on classics like a house yogurt served with roasted apple and granola. It’s light but immensely flavorful with the textures and acidity of the apples. Their Italianesque take on avocado toast, Avo Bruschetta, is topped with marinated beans and will have you wondering why that’s not a fixture on all avocado toast.

P oeta also offers some of Craig and Thurwachter’s beloved pastas such as trottole with pesto genovese. Available all day, it’s downright Intero-esque, indulgent for both the eyes and the tongue with eye-catching pea-green noodles and a light, nutty flavor. But when conceptualizing what pastas to offer, they aspired to do something slightly different.

“Intero is about the concept and idea behind Italian cooking. We take those techniques and styles, but then we use all local, Texas ingredients,” Craig says. “Here, we’re highlighting dishes from specific regions — every preparation that you can use to highlight a region, we’re doing it. So, Poeta has a bit of a wider scope. It’s not an exact ‘travel through Italy’ dinner menu, but it kinda is.”

B etween Craig’s work on sweets and pastries and Thurwachter overseeing the savory, there are standouts up and down the daytime menu that couldn’t exist at Intero, from an eggplant and zucchini panini with a fingerlicking chili pesto to the can’t miss wafflegato. A single bite containing that waffle, the housemade gelato, and the espresso-maple syrup might be the most delectable bite in town this side of a burnt end.

“A long time ago, I would’ve thought, ‘Meh, a waffle and gelato? That’s not very Italian, but I'll eat it anyway,’” Craig says. “I love affogatos, absolutely love it. So trying to differentiate Poeta, we don’t have a standard one on the menu like we do at Intero, where we rotate them. But I don’t think I realized how popular it’d be. Our celiac friends have said our glutenfree one is the best gluten-free waffle they’ve had in town.“

The reception from both customers and the restaurant-hotel team itself has been so strong, there are now plans to open a gelato truck — potentially with waffle-inspired pizzelle ice cream sandwiches — this summer on the street behind the hotel. A vehicle has already been acquired

and Thurwachter has been doing handy work on it himself. Based on how well Craig and Thurwachter have handled the new challenges of Poeta so far, what’s one more new culinary experience? After all, Craig did originally have a small dessert-focused concept in mind. Poeta is located at 1123 East 11th. Plan your visit and learn more at poetarestaurant.com.

Nathan Mattise (@nathanmattise) is always working to perfect his sourdough bagels. He also enjoys bocce, amaro, road trips, and a good playlist.

edibleaustin.com 13 12 Summer 2024
SPOTLIGHT ON LOCAL

FAMILY AFFAIR

MI MADRES HAS BEEN SERVING TEX-MEX TO AUSTINITES FOR DECADES

WORDS BY STACEY INGRAM KALEH

In the Local Legends series, we shine the spotlight on a business that’s been serving our community for three decades or more. These iconic spots have become part of the fabric of our shared culture, with multiple generations of Central Texans fondly reflecting on memories made and delicious bites consumed. In a rapidly growing and changing region, they’ve stood the test of time. Yet, they still need our support so that they can be enjoyed by future generations. It’s time to rediscover the restaurants and shops that keep Austin authentic, vibrant and resilient.

If you are playing a word association game and someone shouts out “Austin,” it’s likely that “breakfast tacos” will be one of the first things to come to mind. Our city is known for crave-worthy concoctions wrapped in tortillas. And, if indeed breakfast tacos are top of mind for you, it’s likely that Mi Madre’s Restaurant is on your go-to list (if it’s not, it should be). Serving Austinites since 1990, Mi Madre’s has been topping various breakfast taco rankings for years.

While breakfast tacos may be one of the most popular items at Mi Madre’s — and they would be enough to keep us coming back time and again — there’s more to the restaurant’s story, not to mention their extensive menu.

Founders and owners Aurelio and Rosa Torres, adoringly referred to as “Mr. T” and “Mama Torres” by neighbors and regulars, opened what is now a vibrant community hub as a 10-seat taco shop and a labor of love. Natives of Saltillo Chihuahua, Mexico, they are longtime Austin residents with deep ties in the community, which they have helped shape through the decades. And they know what makes a superb taco.

“After working for a local restaurant and moving from cook to management, I knew I could make a better taco then what was available in Austin in 1990,” says Aurelio. When it came to creating a taco business, “not having the means did not stop us,” he shares. Aurelio saw a “For Lease” sign on top of a restaurant on Manor Road and stopped in to tell the then-owner that he was interested. “She quoted me a price I could not afford but I was relentless. I stopped by every day that month to try to negotiate a price I could afford. The owner was such a nice woman but she wanted out of the restaurant industry. One day I went in and she just handed me the keys with no money down, paying month to month. It was a Friday I will never forget and she said ‘It's yours.’ We started the restaurant with $200 in savings and saved everything to pay rent.”

And so Mi Madre’s was founded, with heart and persistence. In its 34 years, it has been renovated twice — the eye-catching, tomato-red restaurant stands out on Manor Road and incorporates two dining areas, an outdoor patio and a to-go area. About 16 years ago, Aurelio and Rosa’s son and daughter-in-law, Edgar and Christina Torres, who are both graduates of the Culinary Institute of America, began operating the restaurant alongside its longtime managers. They helped expand the restaurant’s offerings, adding a full bar and dinner service. They also own and operate School House Pub next door, and created Techo Mezcaleria & Agave Bar, a speakeasy above Mi Madre’s that is Austin’s first Hispanic-owned Mezcal bar.

There are many reasons to make a day of visiting or revisiting Mi Madre’s and the Torres family’s establishments. From coffee and breakfast to happy hour to dinner, they’ve got you covered.

Mi Madre’s menu includes a wide range of Tex-Mex favorites, like enchiladas, chile rellenos, fajitas, migas (vegetarian or with chorizo), carne guisada, and, of course, lots of tacos. You fill those tacos with options such as picadillo ground beef, chorizo, pork carnitas, stewed chicken, barbacoa, avocado, refried beans and more.

At breakfast, be sure to pair with their delicious coffees like café de olla (Texas Coffee Traders-brewed with brown sugar, cinnamon, Mexican chocolate and star anise), cold brew, house-made horchata, and cafechata (half cold brew, half horchata).

If you’re visiting for dinner service, don’t miss the botanas, or snacks, like the Saltillo dip — layers of beans, ground beef and queso piled with pico, sour cream, avocado and pickled jalapeños — and the Mexican-style street corn, before diving into plates like the stewed chicken-filled poblano chile relleno smothered in ranchero sauce or Mi Madre’s Hijo, a crispy burrito packed with all sorts of greatness.

Pair any of these with a Mi Madre’s margarita, which uses El Jimador Reposado Tequila, Paula’s Texas orange and house-made margarita mix. If you want a twist on the classic margarita, you can choose from options like basil serrano, mango-chamoy or the Mezcalrita or “La Mamasita Cantarito,” a 64-oz. passion fruit margarita for two (or more) with grapefruit and Altos Silver tequila. If you’re picking up dinner for the family or are simply in the mood for solitude after a busy day, you can grab family meal packs featuring enchiladas, tacos or fajitas to-go, and peruse the drinks-to-go menu for at-home entertainment.

The food and drink speak for themselves — it’s no wonder we love Mi Madre’s. “We pride ourselves on consistency and high standards in our food,” says Aurelio. “This has been very important to me personally.”

Beyond the food, a welcoming and fun atmosphere draws us in. When asked what he feels has contributed to Mi Madre’s becoming a beloved restaurant, Aurelio points to hospitality and family. “Our staff get to know our guests by name and some of them have been coming for over 20 years. We are truly a family restaurant and you will usually see my wife or I greeting tables whenever we come in for lunch. My daughter also works at Mi Madre's and she exudes hospitality and is always so warm and welcoming with our guests.”

With that level of attentiveness and commitment to service, the Torres family has created many heartfelt memories with their customers. Aurelio shares “About twenty years ago we did little mailers as part of our rewards programs for guests' birthdays. We would send them a birthday card with a free meal coupon. I went to tell the guest ‘happy birthday’ and he said crying, ‘You are the only one who remembered my birthday.’ We both cried. He always recalls that day and has become one of our favorite regulars.”

These personal interactions at Mi Madre’s remind us why we love our community. The Torres family is providing fuel for both our bodies

and our spirits. And Aurelio sees this as a sustainable path that

provides for both his community and his family, “I can only hope this once small, five-table restaurant will fulfill our family growth and happiness as well as future success.”

As you explore the diverse, exciting and ever-growing array of dining options in the Austin area, consider keeping Mi Madre’s on your list. If you’re truly a local, you’ll need your Tex-Mex fix on a regular basis. Let’s make sure supporting our neighbors and small, local businesses remains an important part of Austin culture. Continuing to patronize our favorite restaurants allows them to thrive as competition abounds, and it does not go unappreciated.

“We want to truly thank all of our guests who have become so close and sometimes like family,” says Aurelio. “We are locals and when you support us your money stays in Austin supporting our families. We hope to continue growing for another thirty-four years!”

Order Up!

May we suggest…

Breakfast: Can’t decide which taco to try first? Go with the Number Zero, a breakfast taco with bacon, egg, potato and cheese.

“We had already numbered our tacos but wanted to add this one so we numbered it zero,” says Aurelio. It’s one of the most-requested items on the menu for a reason. Pair it with the house-made horchata.

Dinner: Try Aurelio’s personal favorite, the carne guisada plate. It’s a perfectly seasoned braised beef stew with Mexican rice and refried beans and is served with warm flour tortillas. If you are looking for a vegetarian option, the avocado taco or spinach and black bean salad are packed with flavor and sure to satify. Pair with Mi Madre’s margarita or a Martini Mexicano.

Mi Madre’s is located at 2201 Manor Road. Plan your visit or order ahead at mimadresrestaurant.com.

Stacey Ingram Kaleh is a native of the Texas Hill Country. Born and raised in Austin, she lives in Spicewood with her husband, two young daughters and fluffy dog Zeus. She’s been exploring Texas wineries for more than a decade, enjoying great wine, stellar company and scenic views as she learns from local winemakers. Follow her wine adventures on Instagram @TXWineGirl.

edibleaustin.com 15 14 Summer 2024
LOCAL LEGENDS
Left: Nachos Middle: Queso Right Page: Rosa and Aurelio Torres All Photos Courtesy of Mi Madres

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HWine In-step with Nature

HALTER RANCH OPENS WINE TASTING ROOM AND RESTAURANT

alter Ranch, which recently opened its doors in Fredericksburg, is bringing something unique to the Hill Country wine and cuisine scene: a focus on wines made from organically grown grapes and an immaculately designed wine tasting room and restaurant, which is located on 32 acres shaded by a canopy of oak trees.

The original location, the Halter Ranch Estate in Paso Robles, California, has been sustainably growing grapes and making delicious wine since 2005. Just 10 percent of that 2,700-acre property is dedicated to farming in order to preserve the diverse environment and mitigate the effects of monoculture. Now, they’re excited to expand with this new property, bringing to Texas their wines, passion for nature and appreciation of fine cuisine made with local ingredients.

Originally from Switzerland, owner Hansjörg Wyss is one of the world’s leading conservationists with a philanthropic organization that has helped protect over 100 million acres of land. When he started Halter Ranch, it was a fruit supplier, making a tiny bit of wine in an old airplane hangar on the property. When Wyss decided to expand the winemaking, he went all in and built a state-of-the-art gravityflow winery and 20,000 square feet of wine caves. They now make 30,000–35,000 cases a year.

After earning a degree in winemaking from Fresno State and working at JUSTIN Winery for a decade, Kevin Sass joined Halter Ranch as head winemaker. Having worked 25 harvests there, he’s extremely hands-on with both the vineyard and the winery. He’s now bringing that same focus to the development of wines made with Texas grapes but not just any grapes — any vineyard they partner with must farm organically as they do.

Vice president and general manager, Bryce Mullins, who came to Halter Ranch as an investment analyst admittedly knowing very little about wine, played an integral role in intensifying the estate vineyard’s commitment to organic farming — taking advantage of a climate that’s perfect for growing grapes. As his duties expanded to running the wine business, he learned a lot about agriculture and became zealous about organic practices. “It was actually quite scary to learn about all of the chemicals, herbicides and pesticides that are used that end up in what you’re eating or drinking,” he explains. “I also realized that when people are visiting tasting rooms, this is the closest they get to agriculture. This is a chance to talk about it.”

Sass fully acknowledges the challenges of organic farming in Texas vs. California, but he partnered with Bending Branch in Comfort, Texas who helped him find a couple of tiny organic family vineyards. They’re already making a delightful and refreshing Texas High Plains rosé and are working on a sparkling cab.

“We want to have Texas wine not only because we want to be part of that local community but I’m also really excited to work with the fruit from the state,” says Sass. “As a winemaker you’re always curious to see what different places are doing and gathering information. I have a keen interest in understanding the difference between Texas, Temecula [where their third property is], Paso Robles and Napa. I find it fascinating to be able to try something from the hands of winemakers from different regions, so you can pinpoint the style and see how place affects the color, acid and flavor differentials.”

It’s important to Halter Ranch that consumers understand the distinction between organic farming and organic wines. They are USDA-certified organic farmers, so their wines are made with 100-percent -organic grapes. But their wines don’t qualify as organic because they do add sulfur dioxide, which protects the longevity, allowing for quality aged wines.

Mullins is very proud of their organic certification, which required a rigorous four-year process to achieve. For him, it’s the start of implementing better and healthier practices that benefit the land and consumers. “It also makes great wines,” says Mullins. “We just make too much of it and needed more places to sell it!”

Which led the team to Highway 290, the second busiest wine road in America. Their excitement about wine is relatively new, making Fredericksburg the perfect market for them. And they found the ideal property.

Unlike many wineries on 290, the building sits far off the road, behind a forest of oak trees, providing an incredibly serene setting whether you’re taking in the views from the tasting room or enjoying firepits outside. “We’re very nature-forward,” says Mullins. “And having all of these oak trees was just perfect because back home the ranch is covered with ancient oak trees.”

The structure is designed to harmonize with the natural land and wildlife, using glass, wood and stone and very little concrete or asphalt. Since breaking ground in 2021, Mullins and his wife Madison have been commuting from Paso Robles. Madison, a structural engineer, led the design and development, with Wyss also very involved in aesthetic choices.

Both the tasting room and restaurant feature floor-to-ceiling windows, allowing natural light to pour in. The restaurant — open to all — feels like fine dining without the pretense. The tables, set beautifully, are made of oak trees from the Paso Robles estate. “We harvest the trees when they fall and we have a gentleman onsite who’s a master craftsman, and we have our own mill. It’s nice to use a resource that comes directly from that land. It completes the picture for us,” explains Mullins.

Opposite the huge windows and stone fireplace is an open kitchen where chef Paul Arangorin has been training the Texas staff and developing inventive dishes that celebrate local ingredients. He has found many local vendors to partner with like ROAM Ranch, a regenerative farm, and Bakery JoJu. He has also been working with Sass to find the ideal wine pairings.

From the beauty of the property, tasting room and restaurant to the delectable wines and food, Halter Ranch is a delight for all of the senses and a welcome pioneer in developing Texas Hill Country wine and cuisine.

Halter Ranch’s brand-new Fredericksburg Winery is located at 8561 E Highway 290, Fredericksburg, TX 78624. You can learn more at halterranch.com/texas.

Writer and editor Ashley Brown lives in Wimberley with her family of rescues: a dog, two cats, and two donkeys. In addition to animal welfare, her passion is exploring the Hill Country's natural beauty, small farms, eateries and drinkeries.

edibleaustin.com 19 18 Summer 2024
EDIBLE ESCAPES
Left Page Above: Interior view Below: Wine and dining Right Page Top: Exterior view Bottom: Wine offerings All photos by Halter Ranch
WORDS BY ASHLEY BROWN

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EDIBLE VARIETALS

ATEXAS oussanne

THIS VERSATILE VARIETAL CAPTIVATES WINE LOVERS ACROSS THE STATE

re you adventurous? Do you seek the complex and layered over the straightforward and familiar? If so, roussanne might be a wine with the qualities to romance you. It’s a radiant goldenwhite wine with both aromatic intensity and textural richness that offers a lot to explore for the wine drinker and the winemaker. Here in Texas, roussanne still seems like a less familiar varietal. Yet it’s one that is attracting the attention of local winemakers who aren’t afraid to introduce us to this dynamic varietal and add it to their menus. In several Texas tasting rooms, roussanne has been described to me as a red-wine-lover’s white wine. So, Texas red lovers, rejoice! This is a wine that can be chilled and remains refreshing in the scorching summer months, while still offering a robust mouthfeel.

R oussanne can delight with aromas of ripe stone fruits such as pear and apricot and floral notes like honeysuckle and jasmine on the nose, and then indulge you with notes like honey, almond, apple, brioche, black tea and thyme on the palate. It typically has a medium weight and balanced acidity that allows for freshness and lift — aka easy drinking — and has great potential for aging.

Roussanne comes from the northern part of the Rhône Valley in France. It’s a centuries-old grape that’s one of the key varieties used in the production of white wines coming from Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph AOCs (designated geographic regions of origin with controlled and certified quality standards), and is often blended with marsanne, another white grape variety native to the region. In the southern Rhône, roussanne is a primary component in the white wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While relatively rare outside of France, roussanne is now grown in regions across the world, from Tuscany to Texas — and Texas may be poised to become one of the largest producers of the varietal outside of France, according to some of the Hill Country-based winemakers I spoke with. Since roussanne shines on its own, plays well with other white varietals in blends and is delicious aged in oak barrels, steel tanks or a combination of the two, numerous expressions can be found at Texas wineries. All three winemakers I interviewed for this story —

Jon Leahy at Becker Vineyards in Fredericksburg, Claire Richardson from Uplift Vineyards in Burnet and Benjamin Calais of French Connection Wines in Hye — highlighted this versatility as a quality that makes roussanne appealing to work with.

“ Roussanne, I absolutely love. It does extremely well here … We make three different roussannes. They all taste like roussanne but they are three completely different roussannes,” says Leahy, who was recruited by Becker Vineyards in 2012 to make their wines after working in Napa and Sonoma counties in California. He feels he’s found a great home in the Texas Hill Country and is excited about the possibilities for Texas wine. “The fruit is just wonderful here, the grapes and the people, everything,” he says. “And I love, beyond anything, that Texans love to support Texans … People will support you if you make a great product.”

L eahy aims to make high quality wines with high quality Texas fruit. “You can make really bad wine from great fruit, but you can never make great wine from bad fruit, and there’s very little bad fruit in this state,” he says.

B ecker Vineyards currently offers three roussannes — two with grapes sourced from the High Plains and one from the Hill Country — and an award-winning and super refreshing “RVM” roussanneviognier-marsanne blend. They also have plans to plant roussanne on the Becker estate.

L eahy’s approach to roussanne requires intention and patience. He ages the wine in oak barrels for at least 24 months to capture the flavor of the grapes. Some roussannes are also aged in steel tanks as part of their development. The team at Becker leaves the wine on its lees for the entirety of its life, which gives it antioxidant protection. That creates a “reductive atmosphere” without oxygen, which preserves

roussanne’s floral notes and positions the wine for long-term preservation

in the bottle. You can store it for 10 or more years and still enjoy its innate qualities.

Becker is in the process of expanding its 66-acre Fredericksburg vineyard through a six-year planting initiative. While they already have an extensive and highly regarded portfolio of 44 different wines, they’re committed to doing what works well while continuing to challenge the status quo. “Life would be so boring if you didn’t keep experimenting. You never know where the next ‘Aha!’ moment is going to come from,” Leahy says. This planting initiative puts Becker Vineyards on track to become the largest producer of estate wines in Texas.

“Wine is not a spectator sport or an individual sport,” Leahy emphasizes as he talks about the dedication of Becker’s partners and large team, from the assistant winemaker to the cellar master, from outreach staff to the farmers around the state. Leahy recalls an article he read that estimated it takes an average of 33 people to deliver a glass of wine to you. It’s a statistic that has stuck with him. He emphasizes that when you support Texas wine, you support Texas farmers and their families, and a lot of other neighbors, too.

Rhône variety-focused French Connection Wines in Hye is another winery that champions Texas farmers and grapes. Winemaker and co-owner Benjamin Calais, who also owns Calais Wines, began making roussanne in the early 2000s. He prefers sourcing roussanne made from Tablas Creek clones (Tablas Creek Vineyards in Paso Robles, California brought high-quality roussanne clones to the U.S.) grown in highelevation (3,200 feet-plus) vineyards like those in West Texas mountains, High Plains and Dell City. The climate in those regions contributes to slower maturation of the grapes, which helps preserve their acid and makes for a delightfully complex palate.

This complexity is part of what makes roussanne so versatile and allows it to really showcase a winemaker’s mark. “It’s an interesting variety to work with. It’s a tricky variety. And it’s a blank canvas for winemakers,” Calais explains. His roussanne at French Connection is distinct from Leahy’s at Becker, especially when it comes to mouthfeel.

“We’re going to try to keep as much texture as possible,” says Calais. French Connection Wines has been making roussanne for 15 years and makes a roussanne Reserve every five years or so. They currently offer a 2020 roussanne Reserve and use the varietal as the lead in their signature La Connection white blend. Calais prefers a heavier-style roussanne, closer to what he calls its “home style,” and ages roussanne on its lees for 12 to 18 months in neutral French oak barrels. The Reserve roussanne sits in French oak for about three years. “We don’t always make roussanne the same way, because we understand there’s a lot of different ways we can execute,” says Calais, who believes in adapting his winemaking approach to the grape and its particular yield. Calais, who moved from France to the U.S. for a job in computer engineering, refers to his winemaking journey as a “weekend project that got out of hand.” But now he is in it for the long-haul and envisions building wineries that make some of the best wines around. “We make wines we like to drink and that are age-worthy. And we take our time doing it,” he shares. Unfettered by many of the obstacles wine makers

and growers face and unafraid of the time-consuming winemaking processes, he’s focused on a “practice-makes-perfect” approach. “It’s very important to make wine every year … If you want to get better at it and make the best wine you can, you have to make it every year,” Calais explains. His team will hone in on a varietal and fosters long-term relationships with growers. That laser-focus allows them to work with a grape again and again until they “get it perfect,” making roussanne a varietal that is ideal for Calais and his team. It is reliable, with vines consistently producing great grapes. It allows them a “shot at making the wine every year,” which is part of its appeal. It’s a variety that Calais believes will be produced and enjoyed in Texas for years.

Claire Richardson, winemaker at Uplift Vineyards in Burnet, part of the William Chris Vineyards family of brands, also appreciates roussanne’s reliability. She says that roussanne thrives in our heat and abundance of sunshine. “Climate and weather patterns are two of the biggest challenges of growing grapes in Texas, so to have a grape that can flourish in the conditions we have is a win-win for growers and drinkers,” she says.

According to Richardson, the team at Uplift take a unique approach to growing roussanne. Half of the acreage she works with is situated on a hillside and the other half is on flat ground at the bottom of the hill. The two sections are usually harvested at different times. “The hillside fruit ripens faster and will often be harvested at a higher Brix level [which is a measure of sugar content],” she explains. “The finished wine is characterized by the riper roussanne aromatics of honeycomb and brioche and has a more viscous mouthfeel. Contrary to that, the flat portion of the block produces fruit that is more nuanced, with slightly higher acidity and more delicate aromatics.”

Richardson likes the opportunities for personal expression that this approach provides. “The beauty of harvesting this block in two sections is that I end up having multiple components to work with … The two sections of the block are harvested, fermented, and aged separately until it comes time for blending,” she shares.

edibleaustin.com 23 22 Summer 2024
Photo courtesy of Uplift Vineyards WORDS BY STACEY INGRAM KALEH
Above photo courtesy of Becker Vineyards
Claire Richardson photo by Dave Capote

Like Leahy and Calais, Richardson is attracted to the chameleon-like quality of roussanne. In the cellar, she employs a variety of fermentation and aging vessels, yeast strains, and winemaking techniques to steer the grape’s versatility into exciting vintages. She primarily ferments and ages roussanne in oak barrels, with the use of 5 to 10 percent new French oak. This July, Uplift Vineyards plans to release a 2023 roussanne and 2023 Lou Adah, a roussanneMarsanne blend.

Roussanne seems to be gaining traction with Texas wine enthusiasts as more people are trying it when they visit local wineries. “People are gravitating toward roussanne, and they are getting to try it and know it here in Texas,” says Leahy, who points out that we have more single-varietal roussanne offerings in Texas than you can find on the West Coast.

“In the last few years, roussanne has gained popularity among consumers in Texas for its texture, complexity, and availability,” says Richardson. “As a lesser-known varietal, it is our job as growers and winemakers to educate our consumers about varieties like roussanne that are well-adapted to our climate and that are delicious, too.”

If it’s your first time trying roussanne, make it a Texas roussanne. There’s no better place to figure out what you like. The laid-back culture of Texas tasting rooms allows you to feel at home and the staff are happy to share their expertise in a way that’s fun and welcoming.

“Wine should not be an intimidating thing,” says Leahy, who encourages us to view wine not as a luxury item but as a way to celebrate life’s daily victories. He says the only two questions we need to answer when it comes to the wine we drink are “Do you like it?” and “Would you have another glass?”

When it comes to Texas roussanne, my own answers are yes and a resounding yes.

PERFECT PAIRINGS: Try a Texas roussanne with these bites and entrées

Becker Vineyards winemaker Jon Leahy loves pairing roussanne with Mediterranean-style grilled chicken and veggies, lobster bisque and wood-fired mushroom pizza. Becker’s marketing director Nichole Bendele, who is WSET Level 2 Certified, recommends sipping on roussanne as a companion to sauteed scallops and wild rice or Peruvian-style ceviche.

If you’re looking for something lighter to snack on, you can’t go wrong with a crudité and hummus spread. Add roussanne, and you’re ready for a vibrant and refreshing summer picnic!

Sip on a glass or pick up a bottle of Roussanne or a blend at these Texas wineries and others:

Ab Astris

320 Klein Road Stonewall, 78671 abastriswinery.com

Becker Vineyards

464 Becker Farms Rd. Fredericksburg, 78624 beckervineyards.com

Duchman Family Winery

13308 Ranch to Market Rd. 150 Driftwood, 78619 duchmanwinery.com

French Connection Wines 1197 Hye-Albert Rd. Hye, 78635 frenchconnectionhye.com

Haak Vineyards & Winery 6310 Avenue T. Santa Fe, 77510 haakwines.com

Hilmy Cellars

12346 E. US Hwy 290 Fredericksburg, 78624 hilmywine.com

Hye Meadow Winery 10257 W. US Hwy 290 Hye, 78635 hyemeadow.com

Kuhlman Cellars 18421 E. US Hwy 290 Stonewall, 78671 kuhlmancellars.com

Llano Estacado Winery 3426 E. FM 1585 Lubbock, 79404 llanowine.com

McPherson Cellars 1615 Texas Avenue Lubbock, 79401 mcphersoncellars.com

Meierstone Vineyards 573 Meier-Stone Rd. Stonewall, 78671 meierstonevineyards.com

Pedernales Cellars

2916 Upper Albert Road Stonewall, 78671 pedernalescellars.com

Perissos Vineyard and Winery

7214 Park Rd. 4 W. Burnet, 78611 perissosvineyards.org

Siboney Cellars

3427 US 290 Johnson City, 78636 siboneycellars.com

Signor Vineyards

362 Livesay Lane Fredericksburg, 78624 Signorvineyards.com

Texas Heritage Vineyard

3245 US 290 E. Fredericksburg, 78624 texasheritagevineyard.com

Texas Wine Collective

10354 US 290 Fredericksburg, 78624 texaswinecollective.com

Torr Na Lochs Vineyard & Winery

7055 TX-29 Burnet, 78611 Torrnalochs.com

Uplift Vineyard

William Chris Wine Co. 1411 Co. Rd. 119 Burnet, 78611 upliftvineyard.com

Wedding Oak Winery

316 E. Wallace Street San Saba, 76877

6009B US 290 E. Fredericksburg, 78624

229 S. Pierce Burnet, 78611 weddingoakwinery.com

Founded in 1998, Driftwood Estate Winery a bluff overlooking our Estate Vineyard gorgeous Texas Hill Country from which enjoy our 100% Texas grown, award-winning

In 2023, we were honored with ten San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, medal for each wine entered. The medals Double Gold and 3 Best of Class! We also offer Craft Brewed new Driftwood Brewery.

As a veteran and family-owned-and-run business for the we were the first commercial vineyard in Hays County. Whether marking a special occasion or taking a moment to enjoy life’s while taking in the view, our wines or beer are perfect for whatever got planned.

4001 Elder Hill Road Driftwood, Texas 78619 (512) 692-622 / DriftwoodWine.com info@driftwoodwine.com

24 Summer 2024 Award-Winning Wines. Awe-Inspiring Views. Award-Winning
Wines. Awe-inspiring Views.

What's In Season

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

This Summer

Summer may be sweltering hot but delicious sun-kissed fruits and colorful vegetables are begging to be bagged at your local farmers market even at the height of the heat. Summer is for different varieties of eggplant, not to mention okra and, of course, bountiful hot, hot peppers.

Fig Peach

Watermelon

Cantaloupe & Other Melons

Corn

Eggplant

Okra Hot Peppers

From the Gulf Brown Shrimp (from mid-July)

For more information on farmers markets, seasonal recipes and what’s in season, visit edibleaustin.com

Fig, Balsamic and Feta Pizza

Recipe and photos by Pauline Stevens

PIZZA DOUGH

1 T. dry yeast

1/4 t. caster sugar

3/4 c lukewarm water

11/2 c. flour

1 t. sea salt flakes

PREPARATION

Place yeast, sugar and water in a bowl and set aside for 5 minutes. Place flour and salt in a separate bowl and make a well in the center. Add yeast mixture, and with well-floured hands, form a dough.

On a floured surface, knead the mixture for 4 minutes until smooth and elastic.

Place in a lightly greased bowl and cover with a damp cloth. Set aside in a warm place for 30 minutes, until the dough has doubled in size.

FIG, BALSAMIC AND FETA PIZZA

10 medium size figs cut in half

1 T. olive oil

3 garlic cloves mashed into a paste

2/3 c. crumbled feta

1/4 c. coarsely chopped walnuts

2 T. balsamic vinegar

1/2 c. arugula

PREPARATION

Preheat the oven to 475°. Cut dough in two. Using your hands make two round disks that are about 8 inches in diameter. Add olive oil and garlic paste to taste. Add sliced figs, 4 to 5 depending on the size. Add crumbled feta and chopped walnuts. Bake pizza at 475° for 10 to 15 minutes. Add arugula and drizzle with balsamic vinegar.

Beside her passion for photography, Pauline Stevens enjoys traveling and baking. She also visits every possible farmers market, even between frequent visits to NYC where her quadruplet sons live. Follow her store on IG @redbirdshouse.

26 Summer 2024

Peach Galette

2 c. frozen sliced peaches or 3 medium ripe peaches, sliced

3 T. brown sugar

1/2 t. cinnamon

3 thyme sprigs

1/2 c. soft cream cheese

1 pie crust dough

1 beaten egg, for a wash

1 t. coarse crystal sugar

Powdered sugar (optional)

PREPARATION

Preheat the oven to 350°. If using frozen, place frozen peaches in a bowl until defrosted. Add to defrosted or fresh peaches brown sugar, cinnamon and leaves of two sprigs of thyme, and let stand for 5 minutes. Roll the pie crust into the shape of a rectangle, about 9 inches by 12 inches. Place on a baking sheet, then spread the cream cheese over most of the rectangle, leaving a 2-inch space around the edges. Arrange peaches on top of the cream cheese layer. Fold the edges of the pastry around the peaches, leaving an opening in the middle. Brush pastry edges with egg wash. Add the final sprig of thyme and coarse sugar crystals to the top of the galette. Bake at 350° for 40-45 minutes or until the crust is golden. Serve warm and with a sprinkle of powdered sugar for decoration.

28 Summer 2024
Serves
4

$32,500

TOTAL IN CASH PRIZES AWARDED TO MARKETS

Farmers Markets

The season of farmers markets is in full swing. See below for markets taking place in Asheville and surrounding towns in Buncombe and Henderson Counties.

PRESENTED BY

Must-See Farmers Markets

BUNCOMBE COUNTY

Weaverville Tailgate Market

2,435 MARKETS PARTICIPATED IN 2023

VOTE FOR YOUR FAVORITE MARKET

TFM at Bell

Asheville City Market

Saturday, 9:00 am - 12:00 pm | April - Dec

Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

200 South Bell Boulevard

Wednesday, 3:00 pm - 6:00 pm | Jan - Dec

Gateway Market Days

Saturday, 10:00 am - 1:00 pm | Jan - March

Sundays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 9607 Research Boulevard

Lone Star Farmers Market Steiner Ranch

West Asheville Tailgate Market

Instagram: @texasfarmersmarket

Black Mountain Tailgate Market

Saturday, 9:00 am - 12:00 pm | May - Nov

East Asheville Tailgate Market

Friday, 3:00 pm - 6:00 pm | April - Oct Friday, 3:00 pm - 5:30 pm | Nov

Instagram: @gateway_market_days

Tuesday, 3:30 pm - 6:30 pm | April - Oct Tuesday, 3:30 pm - 5:30 pm | Nov - Dec

First and Third Thursdays of the Month, 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. 2900 N Quinlan Park Road

WNC Farmers Market

Daily, 8:00 am - 5:00 pm | Year-round

Instagram: @lonestarfarmersmarket

HENDERSON COUNTY

Enka-Candler Tailgate Market

TFM Mueller Market

Thursday, 3:00 pm - 6:00 pm | May - Oct

Gladheart Farm Fest Market

Sunday, 11:00 am - 3:00 pm | March - Dec

North Asheville Tailgate Market

Hutto Farmers Market

Henderson County Curb Market

Wednesdays, 3 p.m. to 7 p.m.

350 Ed Schmidt Boulevard

Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday 8:00 am - 2:00 pm | April - Dec Saturday, 8:00 am - 2:00 pm | Jan - March

Instagram: @huttofarmersmarket

Saturday, 8:00 am - 12:00 pm | April - Nov

Saturday, 10:00 am - 1:00 pm | Nov - Dec

Saturday, 10:00 am - 1:00 pm | Feb - March

River Arts District Farmers Market

Sundays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 2006 Philomena Street Instagram: @texasfarmersmarket Pedernales Farmers Market

Etowah Lions Farmers Market Wednesday, 3:00 pm - 6:00 pm | May - Oct

@bartoncreekfarmersmarket

Flat Rock Farmers Market Thursday, 3:00 pm - 6:00 pm | May - Oct

Lone Star Farmers Market North Austin

Henderson County Tailgate Market

Saturday, 8:00 am - 12:00 pm | April - Oct

Wednesday, 3:00 pm - 6:00 pm | May - Oct Wednesday, 3:00 pm - 5:30 pm | Nov - April

Southside Community Farmers Market

Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 12709 North Mopac Expressway in the Austin-Garbo’s parking lot

First Sundays, 12:00 pm - 3:00 pm | May - Oct

Sundays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 23526 Texas Highway 71 W. in Spicewood Instagram: @pedernalesfarmersmarket

Hendersonville Farmers Market Saturday, 8:00 am - 1:00 pm | May - Oct

Instagram: @lonestarfarmersmarket

Mills River Farm Market Saturday, 8:00 am - 12:00 pm | May - Oct

American Farmland Trust (AFT) launched the conservation agriculture movement in 1980 and since then has protected nearly 7 million acres across the country. Today, AFT is the leading conservation organization dedicated to protecting farmland and ranchland, promoting environmentally sound farming practices, and keeping farmers and ranchers on the land.

American Farmland Trust (AFT) launched the conservation agriculture movement in 1980 and since then has protected nearly 7.8 million acres across the country. Today, AFT is the leading conservation organization dedicated to protecting farmland and ranchland, promoting environmentally sound farming practices, and keeping farmers and ranchers on the land.

AFT helped start several farmers markets and founded the America’s Farmers Market Celebration (AFMC), which honors farmers markets and raises awareness of the role of farmers markets across the nation.

AFT helped start several farmers markets and founded the America’s Farmers Market CelebrationTM (AFMC), which honors farmers markets and raises awareness of the role of farmers markets across the nation.

Now i n its 15th year, AFMC encourages people to vote for their favorite farmers markets and celebrate local food throughout the summer. AFT supports markets and market managers with free resources and houses the largest database of farmers markets across the US – now with more than 7,000 market listings - with a fun, interactive map.

Learn more at markets.farmland.org.

Now in its 16th year, AFMC encourages people to vote for their favorite farmers markets and celebrate local food throughout the summer. AFT supports markets and market managers with free resources and houses the largest database of farmers markets across the US — now with more than 7,000 market listings — with a fun, interactive map. Learn more at markets.farmland.org.

edibleaustin.com 31
AMERICAN FARMLAND TRUST
Barton Creek Farmers Market Saturdays, 9 a.m.
1 p.m. 2901
Instagram:
SFC Farmers Market Sunset
Saturdays,
to
S Capital of Texas Hwy
Valley
9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Toney Burger Center, 3200 Jones Road Instagram: @instagram.com/sfcfarmersmarket
edible ASHEVILLE edibleasheville.com
ASHEVILLE

Lone Star Summer

NOTHING IS MORE TEXAS THAN EATING FRESH, LOCAL WATERMELON

WORDS BY ASHLEY BROWN

Few foods are more symbolic of summer than watermelons. Ranking third or fourth in the nation for watermelon production, depending on the year, Texas has a hot, sunny climate that is good for growing this luscious, refreshing and versatile fruit. We even have a Watermelon Queen, crowned annually by the Texas Watermelon Association, whose responsibility it is to travel around the state and encourage production and consumption of the fruit.

From the Rolling Plains area, with plenty of sunlight, to the Lower Rio Grande Valley, with its fertile soil, an estimated 42,000 acres across the state are devoted to growing watermelons. Harvests start in April in the Lower Rio Grande Valley. In June and July, it moves to the Winter Garden and East Texas areas, then progresses in August and early fall to the Rolling Plains, Cross Timbers/DeLeon and southern High Plains. Small farms often sell their harvest at roadside stands, while larger farms ship these fresh, juicy melons to cities all over the state such as Houston, San Antonio, Austin and beyond.

I n Luling, watermelons are so popular that the town celebrates with an annual Watermelon Thump Festival. For four days, residents and visitors can partake in watermelon-based games and activities like seed

spitting, watermelon eating, and a contest for the largest Black Diamond watermelon grown that year. Watermelon “thumping” involves tapping a melon quickly and forcefully with a finger or two a few times in a row. If the watermelon sounds hollow and not high-pitched, that means it should be ripe. A thud or less distinct sound indicates it may not be ready. Throughout the summer, many other Texas towns host watermelon festivals and contests, so if you’re craving some fun based around this refreshing and unique fruit, do a quick online search to find one near you.

Growing watermelons organically can be challenging, because they are susceptible to broadleaf weeds, powdery mildew, fusarium wilt and, of course, pests. Despite these difficulties, many Texas farmers that grow watermelons prioritize sustainability and organic practices. Due to watermelons’ thick rind, pesticides can’t get to

the flesh that you eat, so it is safe to consume non-organic melons; however, the potential health benefits to us and the earth of organic farming in general may encourage you to seek out organic options when possible. Either way, watermelons are not just a sweet and delightful summertime treat — they’re a guilt-free option with many health benefits. Ninety-two percent water, they’re a great source of hydration as well as vitamins and the antioxidant, lycopene.

T he seeds, whether white or black, are safe to consume, despite the old wives’ tale that a watermelon will grow in your stomach. Black watermelon seeds are mature, fertile seeds, which you could plant to grow watermelon. The thinner, more translucent white seeds are immature seeds that are not yet fertile.

S eedless watermelons add to the convenience of taking them on the go as a snack and using it in a wide variety of recipes. They were invented more than 50 years ago. This was achieved by crossing watermelon plants with different numbers of chromosomes, resulting in a sterile (seedless) hybrid.

edibleaustin.com 33 32 Summer 2024
FARMERS DIARY
Left Page: Left and Right: Photos by Shane Watts of Watts Farm Top: Photo by Ralph Yznaga Right Page: Photo Compilation by Ralph Yznaga

M ost of us just think of watermelons as watermelons, but there are a number of varieties grown in Texas. Look for these at your local markets or grocery stores, or if you have your own garden, you might want to plant some seeds and try your hand at producing your very own melons:

Allsweet: A uniquely flavorful watermelon with a mild sweetness and crisp texture, this variety is juicy and makes a great addition to salads.

Black Diamond: Very popular with Texas farmers, Black Diamond watermelons are relatively easy to grow in large numbers. They’re big and bold in size, flavor, and color with their bright red flesh and deep black-green rinds.

Crimson Sweet: Naturally resistant to fusarium wilt, this variety is also relatively easy to grow in the Texas climate. The dark green rind is striped with a lighter green and may be what many picture when they think of watermelons, though the shape is more round than oblong. As the name indicates, this variety has a particularly high sugar content, making it a refreshing yet satisfying dessert or snack.

Jubilee: The Jubilee is a popular melon with firm, crisp, and brilliant bright red flesh. It has an oblong shape and a light green color with dark green stripes. This variety weighs a whopping 25 pounds or more when mature! Its wilt-resistant properties and impressive size make this variety an appealing choice for gardeners.

Royal Sweet: Royal Sweet watermelons have a rich sweet flavor and juicy texture. While watermelons are sometimes used in salads and savory dishes, some varieties such as this one make for a delightful dessert or refreshing addition to a picnic.

Sugar Baby: This variety is also a great option for satisfying your sweet tooth with a healthy snack. These smaller watermelons are also a bit easier to cut and manage.

A handful of Texas Farms that grow watermelons:

Atkinson Farms

3217 Spring Cypress Road Spring, 77388 @atkinsonfamily_farm

Boggy Creek Farm 3414 Lyons Road Austin, 78702 boggycreekfarm.com

Engel Farms

9885 U.S. Highway 290, Fredericksburg, 78624 @engel-farms

Watts Farm

700 E. Davis Street Luling, TX 78648 Search Watts Farm Luling TX on Facebook

34 Summer 2024
for $35 /year SUBSCRIBE TO THE MAGAZINE AT edibleAUSTIN.com Don’t miss a single issue. Subscribe today! 1 year (4 issues) $35 SPRING 2024 Issue 90
Photo by Ralph Yznaga

Exploring the Natural Beauty of Wimberley

WALK, HIKE, SWIM OR PLAY IN THIS CHARMING DESTINATION

Kn own affectionately by locals as “a little bit of heaven,” Wimberley is a charming and popular destination for Texans seeking a fun getaway. With its shops, eateries and drinkeries, the Wimberley Square is often hopping, particularly on the weekends. But the town is also a beautiful “playground” for nature lovers, with ample opportunities to walk or hike, swim, take in gorgeous Hill Country views and even zipline!

One of the most magical elements of Wimberley is the water — from Jacob’s Well and Blue Hole to Cypress Creek and the Blanco River. While there aren’t too many access points for the general public, the beautiful Blanco and its warm, inviting waters are the perfect place to chill out. It’s quite shallow in most spots, so you can enjoy a lazy afternoon just sitting in the water and chatting with friends. If you’re staying in Wimberley, there are countless rental properties along the river with private access; otherwise, you can pay to park at the famous 7A Ranch and head into the river from there. For those seeking a little more action, the 7A also offers kayak rentals. Cypress Creek, which runs right through downtown, is a slightly more refreshing option. Fed by deep natural springs, the creek’s waters are much colder and deeper. Visitors can opt to simply enjoy the serenity of the creek shore while sipping on a cocktail or fueling up with a delicious meal from places in town such as Creekhouse Restaurant or Chill’z On The Creek (formerly Ino’z).

But if you prefer to get wet, Cypress Falls Swimming Hole is the spot. It’s located on the largest part of the creek surrounded by cliffs and a

waterfall. The swimming hole is owned by Cypress Falls Lodge, whose website includes the interesting fact that when the creek was dredged in 1949, to create a wider swimming area, many Native American artifacts were discovered as this had been a sacred ceremonial site. Wristbands to enjoy the swimming hole for the day range between $6–10, and they also offer boat and tube rentals.

Jacob’s Well is a natural artesian spring that has long attracted visitors for its beauty, uniqueness and geologic significance. Typically releasing thousands of gallons of water a day, the spring serves as the headwaters of Cypress Creek. There’s a sizable parking area and a network of walking/hiking trails, one leading to the 140-foot-deep well — the second largest underwater cave system in Texas. There’s no fee to park, hike or view the well, but reservations and a fee are required to swim when the spring is open for swimming, which is both seasonal and dependent on drought conditions. Historically low water levels — to the point that the water actually stopped flowing — kept the well closed to swimmers in 2023. The actual swimming area is quite small despite its depth, and the water is a constant 68 degrees, so this experience might be more attractive to the more adventurous.

Another highly popular destination is Blue Hole Regional Park. Blue Hole is a natural, spring-fed swimming hole lined and shaded with towering Cypress trees. The whole family can enjoy swimming in crystal-clear water, sunbathing on the grassy lawn and swinging on the famous rope swings. These waters are also quite chilly, which visitors tend to find most refreshing on a summer day. Reservations are required to swim, but the other amenities of the park can be enjoyed for free. The park features well-maintained, dog-friendly hiking trails, sports fields and plenty of quiet spaces for picnics. It’s a great place to walk or jog.

Speaking of walking, if you’re not afraid of walking up steps — 218 to be exact — Old Baldy is a must. Located two-and-a-half miles from the Wimberley Square, in the middle of the neighborhood of Woodcreek, Old Baldy is a hill with an elevation of 1,182 feet. Once you make it to the top, you’ll experience breath-taking 360-degree views of Wimberley Valley. There’s a small flat area of stone at the peak where you can sit and recover from your walk up, enjoying the peace and quiet looking out over all the activity below.

Another fun way to take in the Hill Country views is ziplining. Wimberley Zipline Adventures is located on 30 acres of open land right in town. Each of the 10 lines — a few with some brief hikes in between — offers a unique experience, including 15-mile views. Some lines are as short as 150 feet, and the longest is 900. On the most exciting one you take a running start, leap off a platform, and soar over the hills. By the sixth or seventh line, gliding through the trees lower to the ground, the feeling is more peaceful than exhilarating. After all, you get to experience the sensation of flying like a bird through the air knowing you’re 100% percent safe and secure (the adventure begins with “flight school,” where you learn all you need to know and are reminded that the equipment you’re using could hold 40,000 pounds of weight).

All of these natural areas offer the chance to observe the local flora and fauna. But if you’re an avid bird watcher, you may want to check out the Patsy Glenn Refuge — a bird sanctuary in the heart of Wimberley.

Next to the Community Center, the refuge features trails, bird feeders, wildflower areas, a chimney swift tower and butterfly garden.

Whether you spend the day bird watching, strolling the banks of the creek, swimming, hiking or zipping over the hills, you may be ready to relax with a glass of wine as the day winds down. There are plenty of places where you can sit and sip while continuing to enjoy the natural beauty of the area.

Driftwood Estate Winery, a few miles north of Wimberley on Elder Hill Road just off of Ranch Road 12, will trick you into thinking you’re in Tuscany. You can opt for a wine tasting inside and/or get a glass or bottle and choose your spot on the grassy hillside overlooking the vineyards and pastures. An amazingly peaceful location, you really will feel like you’re in another world.

They close at 6 p.m. so from there, you can head to The Shady Llama, open until 8 p.m. on weekdays and 9 p.m. on weekends. This is an outdoor-only beer garden just north of Wimberley also on Ranch Road 12, serving up a variety of Texas beers and wines. Picnic tables, seating areas and a playground for the kids are scattered about the shaded property that is also home to eight llamas who often show up to check out the goings-on. This is the perfect spot to enjoy a beautiful sunset and close out a well-spent day in the Texas Hill Country.

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