Edible Austin Fall 2024

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

What's Happening Around Austin

LEADING THE WAY

Guide Has Arrived in Texas

at Green Pastures

EDIBLE ENDEAVOR

K. Spoetzl Brewery & Distillery Have New Offerings

in partnership with Barefoot Books

Michelin
Mattie's
Created
Texas Tannat is Big and Bold
Pumkin Empanadas (photo by Pauline Stevens)
Tom Fiorenzi and Jessica Michalec of
K. Spoetzl Brewery & Distillery (photo by the Brewery) Tannat (photo by Bending Branch Winery)
FRENCH ONION SOUP
PUMPKIN EMPANADAS
COSTILLAS DE PUERCO

As the crisp autumn air (and hopefully cooler temperatures!), begin to make their way into our region, we’re embracing the change of season with a renewed appreciation for the flavors and stories that define Central Texas. Fall is a time of harvest, reflection, and community, and in this issue of Edible Austin, we’re bringing you stories that celebrate the richness of our local food and drink culture.

We begin by highlighting the bold and complex Texas Tannat wines, which have become a standout in our state’s growing wine industry. Known for their deep color, structured tannins, and earthy undertones, Tannat has become a rising star in our state’s wine scene. With a complexity that pairs beautifully with the hearty dishes of fall, Texas winemakers are showcasing just how versatile and extraordinary this varietal can be. Our feature on Texas Tannat will take you on a journey through the vineyards and into the cellars of those crafting these remarkable wines, highlighting the skill and creativity that continue to elevate Texas as a world-class wine destination.

In our Local Legends segment, we pay tribute to Mattie's at Green Pastures, an Austin icon that has gracefully blended history and modernity. For decades, Mattie's has been a gathering place where Southern hospitality and culinary excellence meet. Nestled under the majestic live oaks, Mattie’s continues to be a cherished space for reflection, celebration, and connection. Our story dives into the rich history and enduring legacy of this beloved restaurant, a true treasure of our community.

This fall, we also shine a spotlight on K. Spoetzl Brewery & Distillery, home of the legendary Shiner beer. For over a century, this small-town brewery has become synonymous with quality and tradition, offering a range of craft beers that are enjoyed across the nation. But there's more to Spoetzl than meets the eye — recently, they’ve expanded into distilling, bringing the same dedication and craftsmanship to their line of spirits. Our feature explores how Spoetzl continues to innovate while staying true to its roots, making it a cornerstone of Texas beverage culture. And in our Farmer’s Diary, we take you on a journey through the fall festivals of Central Texas, where the harvest season is celebrated with food, music, and community. From pumpkin patches to celebrating the 50th year of the country’s largest Renaissance festival, these events are a testament to the spirit of our region, offering something for everyone to enjoy. As we gather to celebrate the season’s bounty, we also honor the farmers and artisans who work tirelessly to bring these events to life.

As we transition into the cooler months, we hope these stories inspire you to embrace the season and explore the flavors, traditions, and gatherings that make fall in Central Texas so special. Wishing you a festive and flavorful fall!

PUBLISHER/EDITOR

Monique Threadgill monique@atxpublications.com

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/ CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Ralph Yznaga ralph@atxpublications.com

COPY EDITOR

Claire Cella

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Ashley Brown

Christina Garcia

Stacey Ingram Kaleh

Ava Motes

Pauline Stevens

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Pauline Stevens

ADVERTISING SALES

Grace McCormick grace@atxpublications.com

Stephanie Walsh stephanie@edibleaustin.com

CONTACT US: 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com

5524 Bee Caves Rd., Ste. J-4 Austin, TX 78746

. 100% Locally Raised and Fed in the Texas Hill Country

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. NO Antibiotics and NO Added Hormones

. Quarters, Halves and Griller Packages

OPENS IN WEST END

Tucked inside a historic home in the West End, Prélude is a swanky cocktail and canapé lounge from chef Mathew Peters. The reservation-based bar offers locals an opportunity to intimately explore the culinary world of Peters, who became the first and only United States-born Bocuse d’Or gold medalist at the prestigious French culinary competition in 2017. With an extensive fine dining background, including stints at two Michelin-starred establishments, Peters is poised to provide elevated small-bites alongside Prélude’s top-tier drink program.

According to Prélude’s website, the bar and lounge is the first installment of a broader fine dining concept from Peters. In the next two years, he plans to open Maven, a tasting restaurant, which would occupy the second floor of the house. But until then, the team is focused on crafting innovative and decadent canapés.

The food menu includes a Parmesan tartlet with glazed pork jowl, wild mushrooms and chives; citrus cured hamachi with sesame cornet, charred shishito pepper and avocado puree; as well as more playful offerings like the chicken nuggets with hot sauce, whipped dill crème fraiche and pickled green tomatoes. These light dishes can be paired with unique signature cocktails like the hops & lemongrass with vodka frain, lemongrass, hops, bergamot, verjus blanc and grapefruit as well as inventive spins on classics like the quatro negroni with gin, sage, apricot brandy, Campari and sweet vermouth.

Visit at 707 West 10th Street. Explore the full menu at prelude-austin.com.

BAR GIMMICKS INTRODUCES

CHICAGO-STYLE TAVERN

For a taste of the windy city, look no further than Bar Gimmicks — a Chicago-style neighborhood tavern now open in North Austin.

The bar is the brainchild of Chicago-natives

Devin Mysyk and Sean Reedy, who previously ran All Gimmicks Coffee inside Fairweather Cider Co. After the coffee concept closed in October 2023, the team moved just up the road to share their hometown bar favorites with Austin locals.

Bar Gimmicks has a divey atmosphere complete with Chicago sports team memorabilia, lively games of darts and old-school neon signs. However, the team’s soft-launch menu takes typical bar food to a new level. There are comfort dishes like chicken wings smothered in giardiniera ranch, Chicago tavern-style pizza, ramen deviled eggs and juicy burgers on brioche buns. As any Chicagoan expects, there’s also plenty of fair-priced beer and Malört to go around.

The bar also shares its space with Bullseye Bakery, run by Paul and Karen McGarity, who previously provided baked goods for All Gimmicks Coffee. Bullseye specializes in various

baked goods such as cinnamon rolls, quiches, kolaches and cookies. They also offer espresso drinks, teas and coffee from Texas-based roastery Edison Coffee Co.

Bar Gimmicks already has a little something for everyone, but they plan to continue expanding their menu and signature cocktails in the coming months. Stay up to date at bargimmicksatx.com.

LING WU AT THE GROVE ARRIVES IN ROSEDALE

Joining beloved chef Ling Qi Wu’s list of Chinese and dim sum restaurants is a new Rosedale location: Ling Wu Asian Restaurant at the Grove. This is the fifth restaurant from Wu, who established a respected culinary reputation with previous concepts Qi Austin, Lin Asian Bar + Dim Sum, Ling Kitchen and Ling Wu. Now, with Ling Wu Asian Restaurant at the Grove, she’s dishing out her signature dim sum and expertly crafted dumplings, alongside creative dishes representing regions across China.

Wu hails from Fuzhou City in the southeast of China, where she inherited a passion for Chinese cuisine from her grandmother’s home cooking. Inspired by her experiences in Beijing and her passion for local organic farming, Wu offers classic Chinese cooking with a healthy and locally minded twist.

Her personal cooking philosophy guides the menu, which offers all-day dim sum favorites like Ling’s Soup Dumpling — a staple at Wu’s other restaurants — as well as pan-seared basil chicken dumplings, crawfish dumplings, shu mai with scallops and caviar and Akaushi beef bao. There are also appetizers such as roasted duck pancakes, lobster cheese puffs and hot and sour soup to pair with specialty entrées like Sichuan peppercorn alligator, Hakka veggie noodle and steamed pork belly. And for a more detailed look at the menu, check out lingwugrove.com.

GREEK SANDWICH FOOD TRUCK ATLAS ROLLS INTO WEST CAMPUS

New to the Austin food truck scene with plenty of tzatziki and slow-roasted lamb to boot is Atlas Sandwich Company — a Greekinspired sandwich joint. Atlas first opened in the Holly neighborhood in March, but has recently relocated to the West Campus neighborhood in a new food trailer lot next to bar Cain & Abel’s.

Atlas is owned by Joey Polychronis, who draws on his own Greek roots to bring a fresh take on classic sandwiches. Polychronis comes from a long line of proud Greek-American restaurateurs. His great grandparents immigrated to the U.S. from Sparta, and opened a butcher shop and restaurant after arriving. His father went on to own a brewpub and restaurant chain in Salt Lake City. Though Polychronis didn’t initially set out to work in food — he moved to Austin to work in the tech industry — but after holding a few jobs at food-related tech startups, he became increasingly interested in sandwich making.

Taking inspiration from his family heritage, Polychronis is committed to serving Greek and Mediterranean flavors full-time at Atlas. Many of his sandwiches are built around slow-roasted lamb, made using his family’s recipe. There’s a take on a gyro called the Atlas, which features the signature lamb with smashed lemon potatoes, tzatziki, tomato and red onion. There’s also the Greek Freak, a take on grilled cheese with Greek saganaki cheese, Calabrian chili-infused honey and lamb. And there’s also classic hoagies with Italian cold cuts and fresh Mediterranean ingredients.

Atlas is now open at 907 West 24th Street. See the full menu at atlassandwich.com.

HAVE A GOURMET HALAL DOG

AT NEW MAD DOGS

If you’re in need of a snack after a night out or simply want to enjoy a big-as-yourface gourmet hot dog, look no further than Mad Dogs — the first brick-and-mortar location of the popular Houston food truck. Located in the former Word of Mouth Bakery space alongside dessert shop Midnight Cravingz, Mad Dogs specializes in halal hot dogs piled high with inventive toppings.

As a halal hot dog restaurant, Mad Dogs doesn’t serve any pork, and they utilize animals that are raised and slaughtered in humane manners in accordance with Islamic law. Their namesake loaded hot dog comes complete with cream cheese, crispy fried onions, Sriracha, curry ketchup and honey mayonnaise. There are also regionally inspired offerings like the Elote Dog with roasted cream corn, mayo, parmesan, cilantro, fresh jalapeño, Tajín and lime or the Brisket Dog with chopped beef brisket, crispy fried onions, pickled red onions and sweet n’ spicy barbecue sauce. In addition to hot dogs, there are smash burgers and heaping plates of loaded fries.

Mad Dogs is now open for lunch, dinner and late-night food at 917 West 12th Street.

The space features both indoor and outdoor seating, and orders can be made in person or online via Toast.

For more information, follow @maddogstx on Instagram.

EGGMAN ATX ARRIVES WITH NYC-STYLE BREAKFAST SANDWICHES

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and at Eggman ATX, staples such as eggs and bacon are getting a Big Apple-sized makeover. The recently opened South Austin food truck offers New York City-style breakfast sandwiches to start the morning (or afternoon) off right.

Eggman is inspired by the delis and food carts in New York City, where owner Richard Tavetian grew up. Tavetian jokes that the first time he visited Austin, he was shocked to find ample options for breakfast tacos (a new concept to a Northeasterner), but a complete lack of familiar breakfast sandwiches. So after permanently relocating to Austin in 2022, he decided it was high time he started slinging breakfast sandwiches for locals.

Every Eggman breakfast sandwich comes with eggs, as expected, as well as a signature sauce ranging from mild to spicy on a fresh, warm roll. There are classic options, like the no-frills egg and cheese, as well as signature sandwiches such as The Big Mess with eggs, extra bacon, extra sausage and extra cheese. And for brunch or lunchtime, there are eggtopped burger options and loaded specialties like the NYC Chopped Cheese, with a 3-cheese blend, choice of an Eggman Sauce and special seasonings, served hot on a hoagie roll. Stop by the truck at 1311 South 1st Street. To view the full menu, place an online order, visit eggmanatx.com.

COCKTAIL LOUNGE PRÉLUDE
Left: Photo by Atlas Sandwich Company
Middle: Photo by Mad Dogs
Right: Photo by Eggman ATX
Top Left: Photo by Prelude Middle: Photos by Bar Gimmicks
Right: Photo by Lin Wu at The Grove

A window into the world of upscale Mexican gastronomy, Mexta is now open in downtown Austin. The name Mexta is a creative blend of letters from “Mexico” and “ATX,” embodying the restaurant’s mission to introduce Austin locals to the world of Mexican hospitality.

Mexta is under the culinary direction of two extolled chefs in the Mexican dining scene: Jonatan Gómez Luna Torres and Mikel Alonso Garcia. Torres is a recipient of the Estrella Damm Chef’s Choice Award and his Cancun fine-dining restaurant Le Chique is on the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Garcia is one of the most respected chefs in the culinary industry, known for founding Biko, a now-closed Mexico City Basque-style restaurant that made the World’s 50 Best Restaurant list.

Together, Torres and Garcia have crafted a pan-Mexican menu that showcases modern cooking techniques. This includes tetela, a classic, masa-based snack from Oaxaca with mole manchamanteles, pork belly cracklings, grilled avocado, and a mix of spicy greens; slow-cooked pork belly with encacahuatado, and macha cauliflower. There are also decadent desserts like the chocomaíz, a chocolate metate brownie with salted butter toffee, caramelized popcorn and chocolate powder. Mexta’s drink program, helmed by master mixologist Mica Rousseau, features signature cocktails like the Mole Old Fashioned with more than 50 Mexican spices mixed with barrel notes of Bourbon TX, and the Palomazo, a paloma with fresh grapefruit juice and beetroot shrub.

“The cultural inspiration behind this menu draws from Mikel’s and my respective backgrounds. Each dish showcases the vibrant flavors of Mexico, telling a story in a way that engages locals and visitors,” says Torres. Visit mextarestaurant.com to learn more.

CASA DE LUZ ADDS SECOND LOCATION IN EAST AUSTIN

Austin’s old-school hippie haven, Casa de Luz, just opened a second location in the Chestnut neighborhood: Casa de Luz Este. Much like the original Casa de Luz, a longtime vegan restaurant and community center in the Zilker neighborhood, the new East Austin location features a plant-driven menu to nourish body and soul.

Casa de Luz Este offers a daily vegan menu served in a homey communal dining space. And similar to the original location, meals are offered at a fixed price of $15, including tea, salad, soup and an entrée. The new restaurant also provides grab-and-go dishes, takeout service and take-and-bake meals. Though the menu regularly rotates, Casa de Luz prides itself on the motto: “nature is our menu planner.” This falls in step with the macrobiotic diet, focusing on nutrient-dense and locally harvested seasonal foods without processed ingredients. And in a true community-oriented spirit, Casa de Luz Este also offers volunteer programs for its kitchen and forges partnerships with local urban farms. The restaurant aims to bring its diners together through shared meals and experiences.

“Much like our original village on Toomey, Casa Este offers a thoughtful and unique aesthetic while remaining true to our original Austin roots. East Austin will finally get to experience the joy of Casa de Luz, a truly peaceful and welcoming space to share a meal and genuinely know one another,” Casa de Luz founder Eduardo Longoria said in a statement.

Visit casadeluz.org for more details.

AVA MOTES is an Austin native who follows the city's expanding food scene with an eye for the people and stories behind the menus. She loves trying new restaurants, exploring farmers markets, and relaxing in cafes with a good book in hand.

Star Power

MICHELIN RELEASING GUIDE TO TOP TEXAS RESTAURANTS

WORDS BY AVA MOTES

This fall, all eyes will be on Texas restaurants as the Michelin Guide — a prestigious international restaurant rating program run by the French tire manufacturer — makes its long-anticipated debut in the Lone Star State.

The Michelin Guide to Texas, which is set to release before the end of 2024, will spotlight top-tier restaurants from five Texas cities: Austin, San Antonio, Houston, Dallas, and Fort Worth.

According to Michelin, anonymous inspectors are already dining in secret at Texas restaurants to find the next recipients of the guide’s coveted stars. It’s anyone’s guess what their official selections may be, but statements from Michelin representatives suggest an affinity for unique-to-Texas cuisines like barbeque and Tex-Mex.

“The Texas culinary scene has proven to be an exhilarating one, with multicultural influences, homegrown ingredients, and talent that is rich in ambition,” says Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the Michelin Guide. “Foodies and travel enthusiasts alike will find something to enjoy, with such a broad dining scene spanning farm-to-table dishes, fusion cuisine, upscale dining, and the famous Texas-style barbecue. Texas is a perfect fit for the Michelin Guide, based on the experiences of our anonymous Inspectors.”

These inspectors will base their ratings on Michelin’s five universal criteria, including quality products, the harmony of flavors, the mastery of cooking techniques, the voice and personality of the chef as reflected in the cuisine, and consistency between each visit and throughout the menu (since each restaurant is inspected several times a year). These standards date back to the company’s first

guide, which was released at the turn of the 20th century as a way to promote worthy travel destinations for French motorists. However, as the guide has become increasingly international in scope, it’s proven to be just as beneficial to travelers as it is to the featured destinations themselves.

“The introduction of the Guide will be a tremendous asset for Texas, promoting our rich and diverse food culture and elevating the restaurant scene to an international stage,” said Tim Fennel, director of the Travel Texas tourism bureau, which will collaborate with Michelin to produce and promote the forthcoming guide. New Michelin regions typically arise by forming connections with local tourism boards, which often help pay to promote the guides or the inspectors. The guide is intrinsically linked to the tourism industry, offering an opportunity for Texas cities to share their culinary identities with international audiences.

“This is exciting for Austin,” said Austin Mayor Kirk Watson.

“For a long time, we’ve attracted visitors from around the world, in part because of our distinct food offerings … [this] announcement further cements Austin’s place as a culinary destination.”

Though all five Texas cities stand to benefit from the increased tourist revenue the Michelin Guide promises, the localized impact for Austin restaurants is unique. The city has long embraced its “Live Music Capital of the World” moniker, but lacked similar recognition for its vibrant dining scene. Now, with a nod from Michelin, the city’s culinary community will also be appreciated as an important part of Austin’s local culture and tourist infrastructure.

Austin residents and visitors have long enjoyed our exceptional and growing food scene, thanks to our incredibly talented local chefs,” says Tom Noonan, president and CEO of Visit Austin. “The Michelin Guide will further elevate Austin's culinary community, which offers a variety of flavors with the authentically friendly attitude that can only be found in Austin. We are honored to help position Texas as a global dining destination alongside our friends in Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston, and San Antonio."

Dream House

MATTIE’S AT GREEN PASTURES

In the Local Legends series, we shine the spotlight on a business that’s been serving our community for three decades or more. These iconic spots have become part of the fabric of our shared culture, with multiple generations of Central Texans fondly reflecting on memories made and delicious bites consumed. In a rapidly growing and changing region, they’ve stood the test of time. Yet, they still need our support so that future generations can enjoy them. It’s time to rediscover the restaurants and shops that keep Austin authentic, vibrant and resilient.

There’s a place in Austin where the grass is always greener. It’s a place where stories abound and mystical white peacocks roam on a beautiful, historic, oak-covered estate — a place where it feels like you took a walk back in time.

Green Pastures, now called Mattie’s at Green Pastures, has long been at the heart of our community. It’s a place we’ve gathered for special occasions such as weddings, graduation brunches and intimate dinners with friends. Perhaps you have a memory of a southern-style meal you enjoyed in the thoughtfully preserved 1893 farmhouse, overflowing with warmth and charm. Or maybe you’ve enjoyed a cool drink on their sprawling patio under the heritage oaks , live music as your backdrop. Perfectly seized moments now etched in your imagination.

Before I ever stepped foot on the 23-acre property to start making my own memories there, I’d heard a little legend about it and about the peacocks, from my parents. They got engaged there nearly 45 years ago, embarking on a journey that is now an important part of my family’s history.

As a fourth-generation Austinite, I’ve seen places that hold important stories for my family and for many others slip away as the city grows and time charges on. That makes gathering spots like Mattie’s at Green Pastures all the more special, all the more worthy of revisiting. It’s kind of magical that it’s still here and we get to enjoy it and all of the crave-worthy, elevated southern comfort food it serves up! From buttermilk biscuits and beignets, to farmhouse salads and delectable dips, to Mattie’s famous fried chicken, bone-in pork chops and 16-ounce ribeyes, Mattie’s knows what we want and invites us to come hungry.

Evelyn Edwards, senior director of communications at Mattie’s, is passionate about the restaurant’s history and the legacy it honors. “The property and house have a complete sense of reverence, which we feel must be upheld as time passes,” she says.

Green Pastures, which opened in 1946 and became Mattie’s in 2017, is owned by a group of local investors and operated by La Corsha Hospitality Group, all committed to continuing its beloved legacy. Up until then, it was family-owned. It is named for Martha “Mattie” Faulk, who moved with her husband Henry Faulk to the grand South Austin farmhouse in 1916. Mattie loved to cook meals using ingredients sourced from her gardens and farm. During the Great Depression, the Faulk’s small farm provided enough dairy and produce to share with neighbors, so they would frequently open their doors to guests. Mattie’s daughter, Mary, grew up learning to cook for family and friends and enjoyed making and sharing delicious southern and French dishes. Later in life, Mary remodeled the family home and began serving anyone who dropped by, transitioning the farmhouse into the restaurant known as Green Pastures. She hosted lavish parties for governors, celebrities, distinguished Austin families and visiting dignitaries. Although many Austin restaurants did not desegregate until after the Civil Rights Act of 1964, Green Pastures welcomed everyone from the moment it opened its doors to the public 18 years prior to that. That inclusive and festive atmosphere is a hallmark of the Austin spirit it helps carry forward. “The history of both the property and the services Mary started are becoming a lost form,” Edwards says. “We choose to preserve and move forward with the proper hospitality to serve all.”

Mattie’s brunch and dinner menus change with the seasons, but you can always find some of their customer favorites at the ready. “We are well-known for our fried chicken,” says Edwards. “Our fried green tomatoes with a crab and corn salad and our buttermilk biscuits are solid winners.” She adds, “A brunch house favorite would have to be the milk punch brioche French toast and our fried chicken eggs Benedict.”

As seasons and menus change, Mattie’s will grow and change, too. They will do so with intention, and with dedication to preserving the important things. Edwards explains, “We look forward to the completion of our 63-room inn, which is currently being built on the property. Additionally, we look forward to continuing the service of hospitality to Austin and the many visitors to our fine city.” Order Up!

May we suggest…Brunch Favorites: Don’t skip the lemon meringue beignets with lemon curd, toasted meringue and a delightful blueberry drizzle. Add fried green tomatoes to your starter list, and they’ll set the mood for a southern-style breakfast feast! Then, choose from a delectable selection of salads like the beet and citrus salad with Valencia and blood oranges, arugula, fennel, iced goat cheese, candied hazelnuts and preserved lemon vinaigrette. Entrées include flat iron steak and eggs, served with a hash brown cake and chimichurri, and shrimp and grits.

Dinner Specialties: It’s hard to go wrong with Mattie’s dinner menu. Consider starting with buttermilk biscuits and pimento cheese for the table. Then, pair entrées like tender belly grilled pork ribs and Mattie’s fried chicken with sizzling sides like crispy cauliflower, spiced up with Thai bird chile, tamarind BBQ sauce and cilantro; and fried brussels sprouts served in molasses poached apples, golden raisins, mint and vegan coconut “bacon” for a meal that is sure to satisfy.

Can’t Miss Beverages: Go for a house specialty mocktail or cocktail like the Artemis Cup, a festive chalice with Nile Valley hibiscus, young ginger, cucumber, lime and edible flowers with your choice of liquor (or not). On cooler days this fall, try the 1965 Milk Punch, which Edwards calls a “legendary staple.” It is made with sweet vanilla cream, aged Kentucky Bourbon, VSOP cognac and aged rum according to Mary Faulk Koock’s original recipe. Mattie’s is located at 901 West Live Oak Street. Reservations are encouraged. Learn more and book your table at mattiesaustin.com

Stacey Ingram Kaleh is a native of the Texas Hill Country. Born and raised in Austin, she lives in Spicewood with her husband, two young daughters and fluffy dog Zeus. She’s been exploring Texas wineries for more than a decade, enjoying great wine, stellar company and scenic views as she learns from local winemakers. Follow her wine adventures on Instagram @TXWineGirl.

WORDS BY STACEY INGRAM KALEH
Photos by Mattie's Green Pastures
Killen’s Barbecue
Boiling Dragon
Stella’s Fresh Brunch

Shining Light

THE OG OF CRAFT BEER HAS NEW OFFERINGS

Established in 1909, K. Spoetzl Brewery & Distillery in Shiner, Texas, has been producing grain-to-glass beer for over a century, including Shiner Bock, which has long been synonymous with German-inspired Texas beer. While steeped in tradition and culture, the Shiner brand is also constantly evolving. One of the major innovations is the recent addition of spirits to their offerings — the distillery in the name is new. This project is spearheaded by director of brewery and distillery operations Tom Fiorenzi along with brewery and distillery innovation manager and head distiller Jessica Michalec. A fourthgeneration Shiner native, Michalec worked at the brewery as a teenager and rejoined the Shiner family in 2017 after attending Texas A&M. That’s when they began developing the distillery concept, which involved extensive research and a trip to Scotland to work with the coppersmiths building their equipment. Shiner’s inaugural whiskey came out in March 2023. Now, they also make vodka, gin, shine and cinnamon moonshine, with more to come. In the small town of Shiner, population 2,127, it’s not uncommon for people to show up at gatherings with mason jars of whatever liquor they’ve concocted at home. Immersion in that culture, along with their state-of-the-art brewing equipment, made adding a distillery a seamless next step. They put the same passion and care into the recipes for the washes — the alcohol base of spirits, which is beer without hops — as they have their brews. “All Shiner spirits are distilled ‘off-grain,’ meaning we lauter out all grains and filter out all the yeast. To build the infrastructure to do this is very expensive for a distiller but is standard equipment for a craft brewer,” explains Fiorenzi. Also driven by a love of food, the innovation team dreams up

mouth-watering spirits and beers that are inspired by and complement their favorite foods. “We’re all foodies first and foremost,” says Fiorenzi.

Once his son, who works at a food manufacturing facility, brought home a container of strawberry ice cream and set it on the counter. Fiorenzi stared at it until his son asked him what he was doing. He declared that the ice cream would make a delicious beer. That was the origin of Shiner Strawberry Blonde. Similarly, many of the flavors in Shiner’s beers and spirits are designed by reverse engineering the tastes of a particular food into a drink.

Their love of food also extends to thoughtfully creating good drink pairings, such as heavier meats like steaks or barbecue with their flagship Shiner Bock or a new-fashioned, an old-fashioned made with their unaged Shiner ’Shine whiskey. They like to pair salads with a fruit or citrus component with Shiner Gin; and any happy-hour appetizer with an espresso martini made with their barley-distilled Shiner Vodka.

Given this appreciation for food, and how perfect Shiner Bock goes with meats, K. Spoetzl BBQ Company was added to the compound. Visitors can now spend the day sampling beers (including special brews available only onsite) and spirits in the taproom, having lunch at the restaurant, enjoying a cocktail at the bar and taking a tour of the brewery and/or distillery.

The tours shine a light on the long history of K. Spoetzl Brewery and give guests the opportunity to watch the bottling process and the keg line, where “Chippy the Robot” is hard at work.

With 150 employees and deep roots in the town of Shiner, the facility is a big part of the community, and they’re all about giving back. “Any time there’s a major natural disaster, pandemic or educational opportunity, we feel it’s our duty to help where we can,” says Fiorenzi. They donated supplies after Hurricane Beryl caused significant damage in the Houston area, they contribute to an annual scholarship that sends two local students to the University of Texas at Austin.

In addition to philanthropy, sustainability is integral to Spoetzl’s operations. Fiorenzi explains that before the term “sustainable” became trendy, they were already operating under those principles. For the past year, solar panels have been providing about one-third of their power. Nearly 100 percent of their waste is recycled. Their spent yeast goes to local animal feed producers; their spent grain to local farmers. Wastewater is used for irrigating nearby fields. And they collect all the vapor from the brew kettles to heat the water used in the brewing process. “It’s beneficial for everybody, including the environment,” says Michalec.

“We’re doing it because it’s the right thing,” adds Fiorenzi. “The physics is right, the science is right, the business is right. And a great 115-year-old business like ours incorporates those things as part of the lifestyle, part of the business model.”

Their business model is the epitome of success, from their conscientious operating practices and commitment to innovation to their relationship with the community and devotion to their German and Czech roots. There is much to celebrate, and the fall and winter are all about merriment at the brewery. “With our three-week Oktoberfest, we try to mimic what’s going on in Germany. We can’t help ourselves … we really love our heritage and it’s who we are, so we want to celebrate it as hard and as often as we can and have as much fun as possible,” says Fiorenzi.

The festivities kick off in the last weekend of September with the Shiner Fest. Following that is a month of fun with tents scattered about the property, polka bands, employees donned in dirndls and lederhosen and, of course, plenty of beer. And there’s always something new to try, like the seasonal Shiner Oktoberfest, a maltand hop-forward contrast to the lighter beers offered throughout the summer. In November, they host a Beer Run, benefiting the Boot Campaign. And then it’s time for Shiner Cheer — both a beer and an event with a tree lighting and fireworks on the first Saturday of December, a music festival and ongoing holiday fun.

A true Texas treasure, Shiner represents celebration, history and heritage, generosity, family and a zealous appreciation of food and drink. So, go eat, drink and be merry!

WORDS BY ASHLEY BROWN I LEFT: PHOTOS BY K. SPOETZL BREWERY
Writer and editor Ashley Brown lives in Wimberley with her family of rescues: a dog, two cats, and two donkeys. In addition to animal welfare, her passion is exploring the Hill Country's natural beauty, small farms, eateries and drinkeries.
Top: Tom Fiorenzi and Jessica Michalec
Top Right: K. Spoetzl BBQ Company
Left: K. Spoetzl Brewery
Illustration adapted from Old Clothes for Dinner?! (Barefoot Books), written by Nathalie Alonso and illustrated by Natalia Rojas Castro
Old Clothes
When Abuela cooks a dish called ropa vieja, Magaly scrambles to hide her old clothes before they end up on her dinner plate!

Ropa vieja

Ropa vieja is Cuba’s national dish. It is traditionally made with flank steak and gets its name from the texture of the beef, which shreds when it is cooked. Ropa vieja is usually served with white rice.

1. Place the beef in a pot (or a pressure cooker). Add half of the onion, garlic, and aji pepper. Cover with water.

2. Bring to a boil, then cover and cook over low heat for 2–3 hours (or cook in pressure cooker) until the beef is tender enough to easily shred with a fork.

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds (1 kg) flank steak, skirt steak, or brisket

• 1 onion, sliced in half-rounds, divided in two equal piles

• 3 cloves garlic, finely minced, divided in two equal piles

• 1 large aji pepper (or other sweet pepper), cut into strips, divided in two equal piles

• 1/3 cup (80 mL) vegetable oil

• 8-oz can (220 g) tomato sauce

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1 bay leaf

• ½ cup (120 mL) golden cooking wine (vino seco)

• 7-oz can (200 g) red pimientos

• cooked white rice to serve 8

• optional: olives or capers

3. Scoop the cooked beef into a large bowl, setting aside the pot with the leftover cooking broth for later use. In the bowl, use two forks to separate the meat into fine strips.

4. In another large pot, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the remaining onion, garlic, and pepper, and sauté for a few minutes.

5. Lower the heat and add the beef, tomato sauce, salt, bay leaf, and cooking wine. Cook, covered, for 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally to avoid sticking. If necessary, add a spoonful or two of the leftover cooking broth to keep the mixture moist.

6. Remove the bay leaf. Drain and add the pimientos, and add optional olives or capers.

7. Serve over white rice.

Vegetarian/vegan option: Use a meat alternative such as soy curls, which come in pieces that look like ropa vieja. Soak an 8-oz package in warm water for 10 minutes, then drain the soy curls and start with step 4. Sauté all of the onion, garlic, and aji pepper at once rather than dividing them up into two equal piles Use hot water instead of broth if needed to keep the mixture moist. Tofu or green jackfruit could also be substituted but would not look as similar to the shredded beef.

Arroz con leche

Adult helper needed | Serves 8 Arroz con leche (“rice with milk”) is a rice pudding. It’s a popular dessert in many parts of Latin America, including Cuba. Many different cultures around the

Ingredients:

• ½ cup (90 g) uncooked short-grain rice

• 1 ½ cups (350 mL) water

• zest from 1 lemon

• 1 stick cinnamon

• 4 ¼ cups (1 L) whole milk*

• ¼ teaspoon salt

• 1 cup (240 g) sugar

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• ground cinnamon to taste

* Instead of the whole milk, you can also use a 12-oz can (410 g) of evaporated milk plus 2 ¼ cups (540 g) of water.

1. Place the rice in a sieve and rinse under running water for a minute or two, then drain. Put the rice in a large saucepan with the water, lemon zest, and cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil.

3. Once boiling, reduce heat to low and cover with a lid. Simmer until the rice is tender, about 15–20 minutes.

4. Add the milk, salt, and sugar. Cook uncovered over medium heat for 45–90 minutes, depending on how thick you’d like your arroz con leche. As the mixture thickens, stir occasionally to prevent sticking.

5. Remove the cinnamon stick and stir in the vanilla.

6. Pour into serving dishes and sprinkle with ground cinnamon. Arroz con leche can be served warm, or you can refrigerate and serve it cold.

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Recipes by Edible South Florida, adapted from Cocina Criolla and Cocina al Minuto by Nitza Villapol
Illustration adapted from Old Clothes for Dinner?! (Barefoot Books), written by Nathalie Alonso and illustrated by Natalia Rojas Castro
Old
Illustration adapted from Old Clothes for Dinner?! (Barefoot Books), written by Nathalie Alonso and illustrated by Natalia Rojas Castro
Old Clothes for Dinner?!

Wait, What’s for Dinner?!

Cultures all over the world have recipes with imaginative names that, like “ropa vieja,” describe what the food looks like on the plate rather than what it’s really made of.

Pigs in a blanket — a beloved breakfast treat and appetizer in the US made of a small sausage (the "pig") wrapped in pastry dough (the "blanket").

Ma yi shang shu (mah yee shahng shooh) — a classic dish from the Sichuan region of China. The name means “ants climbing a tree” in Mandarin, because the small bits of pork that cling to the noodles look like ants on branches.

Orecchiette (oh-rek-KYE-teh) — Italian for “little ears.” This pasta, which does indeed look like ears, is traditionally served with small meatballs and a vegetable-based sauce.

Buss up shut — a Caribbean dish, common in Trinidad, that means “busted-up shirt.” It’s made from a flatbread called roti (roh-tee) that has been beaten to pieces, making it look like a ripped-up shirt.

Lady fingers — spongy biscuits from the mountains of France and Italy. They are long and narrow, like fingers. There is a similar biscuit in Indonesian cuisine called kue lidah kucing (kooh-eh lee-dah ku-cheeng), which means “cat’s tongue biscuits.”

it’s all in the details

Spätzle (SHPET-sleh) — small dumpling noodles common throughout central Europe. Before machines, these little noodles were made by pinching a round dough ball with your fingertips. They were named “little sparrows” in German because their pointy ends and round “bellies” make them look like small birds.

Pico de gallo (pee-koh deh GAI-yoh) — a Mexican salsa that translates to “beak of the rooster” in Spanish. It is made with chopped tomatoes, onions, and spicy chili peppers. How it got its name is not clear. Some say it’s because it was originally eaten by picking the vegetables up with the index finger and thumb making the hand look like a rooster’s beak.

Buddhiya ke baal (BOO-dee-yah kay BAHL) — in India, the Hindi name for cotton candy translates to “old woman’s hair.”

This sweet treat, which is made by spinning sugar in different shades (like pink or blue), is known as “fairy floss” in Australia.

Can you think of any other dishes that have interesting names?

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BIG, BOLD AND BOOMING

It’s big and bold like Texas,” says Dr. Robert Young as he describes his signature tannat wine. Young is CEO and executive winemaker at Bending Branch Winery in Comfort, Texas. He’s also a retired medical doctor, affectionately known as Dr. Bob. “It’s like Cab on steroids,” he says of the varietal, pronounced “tuh-not.”

As soon as you take a sip of this deep purple wine, you’ll understand what he means. Robust, dry and packed with flavors such as blackberry, tobacco and vanilla, tannat is a slow-sipping wine with delicious complexity. Wine lovers appreciate it for its bold, striking qualities and its ability to take any steak dinner to the next level or just be enjoyed on its own. Collectors appreciate the wine’s capacity to age well. And winemakers and growers across the state love tannat’s versatility and hardiness as well as the way it resonates with Texans. A grape with origins in Madiran, a small village in southwest France with a climate similar to that of the Texas Hill Country, tannat is making a big impression in the Lone Star state. While Uruguay, the secondest largest tannat grower after France, may call it the country’s national grape, Texas tannat is gaining notoriety in the United States.

After years of traveling to wineries with his wife and then meeting Dr. Richard Becker and his former partner and wife Bunny of Becker Vineyards and learning their story, he began thinking that working with wine might offer everything he was looking for. He purchased acreage in Comfort that was close to his daughter and conducive to grape-growing. It’s situated on a hill at an elevation of 1,730 feet with good soil, good drainage and solid protection from frost.

After attending University of California, Davis’s online winemaking program, Young put his love of research and in-depth knowledge of chemistry into action by planting a vineyard and studying the performance of various grapes and winemaking processes. On 16 acres, he planted 16 varietals such as tempranillo, petite sirah, cabernet sauvignon, aglianico and malbec. Then he observed which grew well, held strong through the Texas heat and made great-tasting local wine.

After thorough testing, tannat was the clear winner. “There was nothing even close to it,” says Young, “Tannat is hands down a better grower, more effective in fighting off disease and more droughttolerant than any of the other vines.”

In addition to these beneficial qualities, likely aided by the grape’s thick skin, he also found tannat to be more versatile. It could produce rosé, bold reds and port. Not only that, he found tannat to be rich in procyanidins — what we might notice as smooth tannins. It’s a compound in red wine that research by Roger Corder, Ph.D., published in Nature in 2006, had shown to enhance blood flow in the body. What more could a doctor ask for?

“When you look at the science of wine, there’s a category of compounds that really have the most profound impact on the wine — they’re called polyphenols,” says Young. Polyphenols include the color molecules, the flavor molecules and the tannins. “Outside of acid, those are the most important three things in the grapes,” he says. Polyphenols are also a type of antioxidant, which some research suggests can help neutralize harmful free radicals. Young’s mission soon became, “How do we take a Texas red grape and get more of those wonderful compounds extracted from the grape and into the wine?”

So, Young invested in growing more tannat on Bending Branch. He even sent some of his tannat vines to nearby Newsom Vineyards and other growers to ensure he’d always have access if his vineyard faced weather extremes.

Next, Young began testing to determine how best to harness the natural goodness found in tannat, or what Bending Branch general manager Jennifer Cernosek calls “amplifying all of the grape’s natural qualities.” Young observed that common winemaking practices only extract one-third to 40 percent of the polyphenols in the fruit. So, he invested in top-tier equipment to propel innovation.

“The first thing we did is experiment with cryomaceration — a fancy word that means we freeze the fruit, keep it frozen for several weeks to a few months, then we thaw it out and ferment it,” says Young.

This resulted in preserving about 25 to 50 percent more polyphenols than a control batch using whole-berry fermentation, a way of making wine in open top bins by hand. It also passed the test, with flying colors, when it came to taste.

Another process that results in extracting even more of these key compounds is flash détente, which Young is the first to use in Texas. “For this process, we do the opposite of freezing,” he explains, “We put the fruit into a tank and then it gets heated up to 178 degrees Fahrenheit for a few minutes, then it immediately gets transferred to a tank, which is a vacuum chamber.” There, the components of the grape skin that contain the polyphenols “burst open,” resulting in extraction increasing to about 80 percent, which “translates to more color, more flavor and more tannins,” according to Young.

An additional benefit of these boundary-breaking approaches is they are certified organic and sustainable. “I think it’s important to use the fewest chemicals possible, not only for the sake of the land but for the sake of health, the long-term health of everybody,” Young says. In 2010, Bending Branch opened its tasting room with tannat on the menu, a 2008 vintage. The winery is now known as pioneers of tannat in Texas, along with Westcave Cellars and Reddy Vineyards. You can find their signature tannat in many H-E-B’s, and it is a staple for many Texan’s wine cellars. Last year, they harvested more than 90 tons of tannat, and vineyards in California are purchasing their vines.

Bending Branch currently offers more than nine different tannats, many of them award-winning. Whether you are looking for an elegant dry rosé, a vibrant frizzante rosé or a trademark bold red, you can find an expression of tannat to surprise and delight you. If you’re concerned about the off-the-beaten-path trek to Comfort, don’t. The drive to Bending Branch is an attraction in itself, filled with beautiful twists and turns through unobstructed country. Their tasting room is casual and welcoming, embracing the warm hospitality that Young and his team exude, plus it has a panoramic view of rolling hills.

Young’s thoughtful, scientific approach, which has yielded awardwinning wines, has inspired others to get into the business and to make their own tannats.

One of those is Mike Nelson, co-founder and winemaker at Ab Astris Winery between Stonewall and Hye. He grew up visiting the Central Coast of California with his parents, fostering a deep appreciation for wine and the wine community there. He fell in love with Texas wine at Bending Branch as he enjoyed a glass of their tannat during a visit to the Texas Hill Country in 2009–2010. “One of my biggest Aha! moments with Texas wine was Texas tannat. I had never heard of the varietal when I tasted it. It just blew my socks off! I fell in love. It was life-changing,” says Nelson.

Photo courtesy of Bending Branch Winery
WORDS BY STACEY INGRAM KALEH
Mike Nelson photo by Ab Astris Winery

The experience inspired Nelson, who studied law, along with his wife and co-founder Kristen, to take the leap into wine making and move to the Hill Country. They both thought the area was on the verge of becoming a wine community like some of the regions they were familiar with in California.“I felt like Texas was on the verge of something special,” he shares.

Since his first visit to Bending Branch, Nelson kept in touch with John Rivenburgh, a co-founder and former winemaker with Young. As he and Kristen forged plans for their own winery in 2015, they hired Rivenburgh as a consultant. Nelson considers him an invaluable mentor. “He helped with our first vintage and subsequently taught me how to make wine, how to manage a vineyard, and how to drive a tractor and a forklift. He taught me, a city boy and former attorney, everything I needed to know over the course of about four years,” says Nelson. When Nelson and his partners started planning Ab Astris, they found land tucked away off “Wine Road 290,” a stone’s throw from the historic Junction School, where President Lyndon B. Johnson attended as a young boy and returned in 1965 to sign the Elementary and Secondary Education Act into Law. There, they immediately planted tannat.

Ab Astris opened in 2018 and started serving, in a gorgeous tasting room, its first estate-grown tannat in 2022. Nelson now makes at least three tannats each year. Beyond the estate wine, he sources grapes from Newsom Vineyards and the Texas High Plains.

“Tannat is excellent because it produces very high-quality fruit. It can ripen to the right point, it grows well in Texas. It’s low maintenance, low intervention,” says Nelson. According to Nelson, the Ab Astris’ 2020 Estate Tannat, which is aged in neutral oak and American oak, evokes the flavors of blackberry cobbler. “It is one of the only wines we’ve ever gotten the acidity, the PH, the sugar, everything at the perfect level, so we did very little to it once we started processing it,” he says. “When you’re in the situation where you have to do very little to very good fruit, you’re in the territory of exceptional wine,”

He enjoys pairing it with ribeye and gamey meats like venison and bison or, for a lighter bite, Chaumes cheese on a crostini with a dash of blackberry jam. If you are looking for other tips, Nelson reminds us, “what grows together, goes together,” and encourages

customers to seek local, in-season products and to pair them with Texas wines made from varietals that grow well in their area.

Kelsey Kramer, director of education at William Chris Wine Company and the Hill Country Wine Academy, also highlights that power of place. She says William Chris’ approach to making tannat (and other varietals) is “about letting the grape variety showcase the place where it grows.”

William Chris currently grows about seven acres of tannat on its estate in Hye, and also sources grapes from vineyards in the Texas Hill Country and High Plains, like Vintage Press and Timmons Estate Vineyard. According to Kramer, the goal is to “showcase a raw expression of tannat, with mostly neutral barrel aging, primarily unblended tannat, with the intention of it developing over time in bottle, revealing its core.”

What’s at the core of this wine? “Tannat is structure, leather, tobacco and wild berries,” Kramer says. “It is far more tannic than cabernet sauvignon, less fruity, and more brooding." Kramer says she personally enjoys the challenge of coaxing the available fruit from tannat, which is not predominantly fruity, to bring it into balance with the other aromas natural to the grape. “This grape naturally smells like Texas, rough around the edges with aromas reminiscent of horseback riding and woodland areas,” Kramer says.

Beyond its enticing flavor and aroma profiles, tannat has a big personality. It’s audacious and memorable. “Tannat embodies the idea that everything is truly bigger in Texas,” Kramer says. “Not only that, but very practically, wines made from this grape can age in a cellar for 15 years, while also being quite pleasant to drink when young, which is when the wine is at its boldest and driest. Not all wines have this dual capability.” For wine lovers at any stage of their wine journey, this makes tannat a must-have for your collection as well as a great addition to any dinner party, especially if you want to show off how great Texas wines with Texas characteristics can be.

As we linger in the drawn-out Texas summer and embrace the fun and familiar chaos of fall — heading back to school, enjoying festival season and prepping for holidays — there’s no better time to create special moments to unwind with a glass of tannat from a local winery.

Sip on a glass or pick up a bottle of Tannat at these Texas wineries and others:

Ab Astris Wintery

320 Klein Rd. Stonewall, TX 78671 abastriswinery.com @abastriswinery

Augusta Vin

140 Augusta Vin Ln. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 augustavin.com

@augustavinwinery

Bell Springs Winery

3700 Bell Springs Rd. Dripping Springs, TX 78620

bellspringswinery.com

@bellspringswinery

Bending Branch Winery

142 Lindner Branch Rd. Comfort, TX 78013

bendingbranchwinery.com

@bendingbranchwinery

Busted Oak Cellars

6195 Round Top Rd. Carmine, TX 78932

bustedoakcellars.com @bustedoakcellars

Hye Meadow Winery

10257 W. US Hwy 290 Hye, TX 78635 hyemeadow.com @hyemeadow_winery

Lewis Wines

3209 US Hwy 290 Johnson City, TX 78636 lewiswines.com @lewiswines

Llano Estacado Winery

3426 E. FM 1585 Lubbock, TX 79404 Llanowine.com @llanowine

Majek Vineyard

12508 FM 957 Schulenberg, TX 78956 majekvineyard.com

@majekvineyard

Portree Cellars

668 RM 1320

Johnson City, TX 78638 portreecellars.com @portree_cellars

Signor Vineyards

362 Livesay Ln. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 signorvineyards.com @signorvineyards

Silver Spur Winery

107 Pecan St. Hico, TX 76457 silverspurwinery.com @silver_spur_winery

Slate Theory

10915 E. US Hwy. 290 Fredericksburg, TX 78624 slatetheory.com @slatetheorywinery

Texas Heritage Vineyard 3245 E. US Hwy. 290 Fredericksburg, TX 78624 texasheritagevineyard.com @texasheritagevineyard

Westcave Cellars

683 Ranch Road 1320

Johnson City, TX 78636 westcavecellars.com @westcavecellars

Wedding Oak Winery

316 E. Wallace St. San Saba, TX 76877

6009B E. US Hwy 290 Fredericksburg, TX 78624

229 S. Pierce Burnet, TX 78611 weddingoakwinery.com @weddingoakwine

Wildseed Farms

100 Legacy Dr. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 wildseedfarms.com @wildseedfarms

Stacey Ingram Kaleh is a native of the Texas Hill Country. Born and raised in Austin, she lives in Spicewood with her husband, two young daughters and fluffy dog Zeus. She’s been exploring Texas wineries for more than a decade, enjoying great wine, stellar company and scenic views as she learns from local winemakers. Follow her wine adventures on Instagram @TXWineGirl.

Pedernales Cellars

2916 Upper Albert Rd. Stonewall, TX 78671

pedernalescellars.com

@pedernalescellars

William Chris Vineyards 10352 US Hwy 290 Hye, TX 78635 williamchriswines.com @williamchrisvineyards

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Sundays 10am-2pm @ mueller

2006 philomena street, Austin TX

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What's In Season

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

This Fall

Fall is all about colors, all the reds, purples, and greens you can think of!

Orange hues in winter squashes such as butternut, spaghetti and cushaw but also in sweet fruits like persimmon

Beautiful shades of green in chards, mustards, kales, spinach and sweet potato greens

Year round mushrooms! Oysters, shitake, lion's mane pippino and many more

From the Gulf Brown Shrimp (from mid-July)

For more information on farmers markets, seasonal recipes and what’s in season, visit edibleaustin.com

French Onion Soup

Recipe and photos by Pauline Stevens

½ c. unsalted butter

2 T. olive oil

4 c. sliced onions

5 c. beef broth

1 t. dried thyme

1 pinch salt and pepper to taste

4 slices French bread

4 slices provolone cheese

¼ c. grated Parmesan cheese

Worcestershire sauce

Sprigs of fresh thyme

PREPARATION

Melt butter with olive oil in an 8-quart pot over medium heat. Add onions until tender and translucent. Do not brown the onions. Add beef broth, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Let simmer for 30 minutes. Serve soup into bowls and place 1-3 slices of French bread on top of each. Layer each slice of bread with a slice of provolone and 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese. Broil bowls until cheese bubbles and browns slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Carefully remove and add thyme and Worcestershire sauce to taste.

Beside her passion for photography, Pauline Stevens enjoys traveling and baking. She also visits every possible farmers market, even between frequent visits to NYC where her quadruplet sons live. Follow her store on IG @redbirdshouse.

Pumpkin Empanadas

Serves 4

1 12 oz. can of pumpkin puree

2 c. dark brown sugar

1 T. orange zest

1 T. butter

1 t. cinnamon

1/8 t. ground cloves

1/8 t. ground nutmeg

1/8 t. salt

1 T. sugar Puff pastry

1 egg mixture with 2 t. of water

Crystal sugar for decoration

PREPARATION

In a small saucepan over medium heat, add pumpkin puree, brown sugar, butter, orange zest, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and salt. Cook, stirring well, until sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Transfer pumpkin mixture to bowl; chill in refrigerator until cold. Heat oven to 425°F. On a lightly floured work surface, using a rolling pin, roll out the puff pastry until thin and even. Cut 6” circles. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of cooked pumpkin mixture into the middle of dough. Wet edges with beaten eggs; fold in half to form half-moon shape. Seal edges by pressing with fork; transfer to baking sheet. Brush tops of empanadas with beaten eggs; sprinkle with sugar crystal. Bake until empanadas are puffed and golden brown, about 20 minutes, rotating pan after 10 minutes.

Embrace the Season

As autumn approaches and temperatures cool (hopefully), the spirit of celebration comes alive in the heart of the Lone Star State. From the vibrant city streets of Austin to the rich cultural tapestry of San Antonio, and the bustling urban landscape of Houston, fall festivals are the perfect way to embrace the season. These events offer a chance to indulge in local flavors, enjoy live music and experience the unique traditions that define each region. Whether you're a family looking for a fun outing, a foodie looking to sample some new fare or you are simply looking to make the most of the season, there's a festival waiting for you this fall in Central Texas.

Texas Pumpkin Fest (Leander/Austin area)

October 4–31, weekends + Halloween

Admission: $15

texaspumpkinfest.com

“Where joy is as abundant as the pumpkins!” If you love all things Halloween, don’t miss this festival that’s sure to get you in the spooky spirit. This is the largest pumpkin patch in the state, making it the perfect place to spend an afternoon wandering along the “Yellow Hay Road,” choosing your own pumpkins from a massive colorful array. With the festive fall decor, there are great photo ops all over the property. To facilitate your pumpkin-picking experience, wheelbarrows and wagons are available. They also sell carving kits. If a good scare is what you’re after, check out the Hall of Monsters, a terrifying indoor attraction, featuring state-of-the-art animatronics and props that will get your spine tingling. Other activities include zombie hayrides, pony rides, laser tag, pumpkin smashing, axe throwing, costume contests, a petting zoo and amusement park-style rides if all the monsters and horrors aren’t enough to get your adrenaline pumping. They also offer tasty food as well as kid-friendly and adult beverages to make sure the whole family stays fueled up.

Sweet Berry Farm’s Harvest of Fall Fun (Marble Falls)

September 21–November 16

Admission: Free! Just pay for activities you choose sweetberryfarm.com

Enjoy old-fashioned family fun at Sweet Berry Farm in Marble Falls. Activities include corn mazes, pumpkin painting, scarecrow stuffing, flower picking and pony rides. The farm is home to many animals that visitors can interact with. On weekends in October, hot dogs,

sandwiches and refreshments are available. And, of course, there’s a pumpkin patch full of pumpkins and gourds to buy and enjoy for the rest of autumn. This is a quintessential fall farm experience!

Gruene Music & Wine Fest October 10–13

Admission: See below, prices vary gruenemusicandwinefest.org

The Gruene Music & Wine Fest, benefiting the United Way of Comal County, is all about promoting Texas and Americana music and celebrating Texas wine and beer. Festivities start on Thursday with the free Kickoff Party at The Grapevine where visitors can enjoy live music and optional tastings for $45 per person. Friday features Stars and Guitars — a private concert plus meet-n-greet with the headliner, a full-service dinner catered by Gristmill River Restaurant, wine tastings and auction, Saturday is Tastings and Tunes. Admission to enjoy the live music is free and it’s $45 for 10 tasting tickets and a wine glass. Sunday features the Showdown that boasts a lineup of favorite Americana and country artists, pop-up market and food extravaganza.

Dewberry Farm Fall Festival (Brookshire/Houston area)

September 14 – November 3

+ Boorific Nights every weekend September 28 through November 3

Admission: $35 dewberryfarm.com

Dewberry Farm’s original owners had a vision of transforming their property in Waller County into a top destination for familyfriendly, farm-based fun. Today, Bryan and Jill Lank — along with their children and grandchildren — are continuing that legacy by providing unforgettable agriculture-focused experiences for visitors. During their Fall Festival, they offer an eight-acre Peanuts (the cartoon)-themed corn maze, a sizeable pumpkin patch, barnyard animals to interact with, a flower garden where you can pick wildflowers, rides galore, tasty treats and endless child-friendly activities. And when the sun sets, it’s time to get your scare on with BOOrific Nights. Depending on how much frightening fun you want to experience, you can opt for the Haunted Hollow’s Trail of Terror, Spooky Acres Creepy Corn Maze, The Freaky Fun Pit or The Haunted Barn. Wander among replica sets of favorite movies and shows like Beetlejuice and Stranger Things and life-sized lanterns of favorite “heroes of horror.” You can even do some axe-throwing with Jason from “Halloween.”

Old Time Christmas Tree Farm Fall Family Fun

(Spring/Houston area): Weekends in October

$10

+ Christmas Family Fun oldtimechristmastree.com

Celebrate the entire holiday season, starting October 1, at this old-timey farm near Houston. In addition to a pumpkin patch, kids can enjoy hayrides and a petting zoo. This family farm is all about getting away for an afternoon and spending quality time with one another, browsing pumpkins, enjoying a variety of food and beverage vendors or engaging in one of their eight attractions.

After Halloween celebrations are over, you can visit again for a picturesque country Christmas experience that includes cutting down your own tree. The farm grows and cares for their pine and Cypress trees year-round so your family can find a full, healthy, beautiful

tree to enhance the warm fuzzy holiday feel in your home. Saws and measuring sticks are provided, so all you have to do is wander the farm until you find the tree that makes you hear angels sing (think “Christmas Vacation”)! If you’d rather not cut down your own tree, the farm offers a variety of pre-cut firs and spruces grown up north that are kept fresh in water. Throughout the season, there are also Christmas attractions and photos with Santa.

WORDS BY ASHLEY BROWN
Left Page: Images by Ralph Yznaga Right Page:
Top: Photo by Dewberry Farm
Bottom Left: Photo by Old Time Christmas Tree farm
Bottom Right: Photo by Culinaria.org

Texas Renaissance Festival (Todd Mission/Houston area)

Weekends from October 12 to December 1, including Thanksgiving Friday

Admission: Daily tickets, weekend and season passes, prices vary texrenfest.com

Come celebrate the 50th year of the country’s largest Renaissance-themed festival! The festival offers a fantasy land of fairies, pirates and mythical creatures and 19 stages where you can take in a show of your choosing, losing yourself in another time and place. Activities and entertainment abound, including wine tastings, escape room adventures, scavenger hunts, a “Dragon Forging Experience” in which you wield the hammer to forge your own piece, tea and strumpets, jousting, magic, rides and over 400 shops! And with countless food and drink vendors, you will not go hungry! From refreshments like mead or hot cocoa to fun snacks like funnel cakes and beef jerky to Mexican, German, Italian cuisine and more … there is something for everyone. The 77 acres of festival grounds can be overwhelming to the Texas Renaissance Festival newcomer, so you can check out the website for a “Survival Guide for Newbies” as well as maps and details on all of the attractions and activities.

Tasting Texas Wine + Food Festival (San Antonio)

November 8-10

Admission: Ticket prices vary for each day, see website for details culinariasa.org/tasting-texas

This weekend of epicurean indulgence is a must for food and wine lovers. Enjoy live music; discussion panels; workshops on food and drink pairings; cooking classes; and samplings of wines, craft beers, cocktails and delectable bites from Texas chefs and restaurants. Proceeds benefit the James Beard Foundation and its grant program that supports culinary students in Texas.

Tickets are available for the following events throughout the weekend:

• The Grand Tasting is “the ultimate exploration of all things wine, food and cocktails!” This is a casual experience in which visitors can stroll and sample food and drinks at their own pace, getting to know the makers and learning more about their products. You can also take advantage of educational seminars to enhance your cooking skills and learn more about pairing dishes with wine.

• The Becker Luncheon is a luxurious multi-course meal in which each course is thoughtfully paired with a Texas wine. Becker Vineyards, where the luncheon occurs, is a gorgeous and serene oasis surrounded by fields of flowers, lavender and grapevines.

• The Dinners each night are a great way to connect with fellow foodies while enjoying creative dishes invented by local and guest chefs.

San Antonio Beer Festival (San Antonio)

Saturday, October 19

Admission: $45–100 sanantoniobeerfestival.com

San Antonio’s original beer fest, founded in 2005, is a must for beer lovers. Going beyond local beers, offerings include over 400 premium and craft beers — porters, stouts, pilsners, ales, ciders, lagers and more — from over 150 breweries from around the world. A great way to soak up a beautiful autumn day, you can also enjoy music, games, local vendors, food trucks and wine. Visitors (21 and up only) are encouraged to bring blankets or chairs and relax for the afternoon. A portion of the proceeds benefit San Antonio Food Bank.

Dia de los Muertos at Hemisfair/Muertos Fest (San Antonio) October 26-27

Admissions: Free! muertosfest.com

This beloved celebration of the traditional Mexican holiday — named one of the 7 Best Fall Festivals in the country by National Geographic and one of the ten Great Day of the Dead Celebrations in the world by USA Today — offers a diverse array of food vendors, processions, music, dance and community-built altars. This year’s festival will be featured on the Cooking Channel’s nationally broadcast show “Carnival Eats!”

Ready to shake up your drink game and discover a new class level? Look no further than Sake, Japan’s iconic pour that’s perfect for today’s party scene. Whether you’re chilling at a sushi spot, hosting. or mixing up cocktails, sake’s complexity and smoothness make for the perfect addition to your lineup.

SAKE: THE ULTIMATE WINGMAN

Pair Sake with non-Japanese foods for a match made in Heaven.

SAKE AND CHEESE Match fruity Daiginjo with goat cheese, Junmai with Manchego, Kimoto with Emmental.

SAKE AND SEAFOOD Pour a glass of creamy Junmai to serve with oysters, Ginjo with lobster, and Daiginjo with caviar.

SAKE AND CHARCUTERIE Sakes perfectly complement the rich flavors of cured meats and Texas barbeque.

SAKE AND SPICY Sake smoothness tempers spicy Tex-Mex and Southern heat.

SAKE AND DESSERTS Sake’s sweetness complements fruit tarts and chocolate truffles.

Writer and editor Ashley Brown lives in Wimberley with her family of rescues: a dog, two cats, and two donkeys. In addition to animal welfare, her passion is exploring the Hill Country's natural beauty, small farms, eateries and drinkeries.

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Japanese Innovative Japanese fusion eats with a cocktail program oishiihouston.com

Toukei Izakaya A vibrant and authentic Japanese restaurant, featuring izakaya dishes with a modern twist toukeiizakaya.com

Koi Contemporary sushi restaurant with

kuurestaurant.com

Uchiko Robust flavors with hints of smoke and char alongside the fresh and clean Japanese flavors uchiko.uchirestaurants.com

To learn about all the ways to enjoy sake, use the QR code or go to the websites listed

Left: Photo by San Antonio Beer Festival
Right: Photo by Muertos Fest
UNLEASH THE FLAVOR

Spotlight on Wimberley: Breweries and Beer Gardens

With a plethora of seasonal autumn brews and Oktoberfests celebrating the fall harvest, now is the time to check out the amazing breweries and beer gardens in the Texas Hill Country. Below are just a few of the appealing options in the Wimberley area, where you can hop about town enjoying a beautiful crisp autumn day and deciding just how “hoppy” you want to get!

Roughhouse Brewing is a little bit off the beaten path, but the seven-mile drive from the Wimberley Square is well worth it. You can easily while away an entire afternoon and/or evening imbibing their unique brews, nibbling on one of many dishes from their kitchen and soaking up the serenity of the sprawling acreage shaded by oak trees.

Owners Alex and Davy Pasternak were professionals in Austin — she worked in marketing, he as a mechanical engineer — who followed their passion to build an oasis where they could do what he truly loved in making and sharing beer.

“We both loved the farmhouse style of beer, which tends to be a little more dry, tart, maybe spritzy, very unique, very Belgian,” explains Alex. That style of beer is a stark contrast to the sometimes aggressively bitter IPAs that were popular when they were opening Roughhouse.

Early on, they aged their beers exclusively in foeders, large oak barrels lying horizontal. They cultured yeast from the property — watching, smelling and tasting various specimens — and created their own in-house yeast culture. They now have some vertical stainless-steel tanks using yeast they purchase, but they still love using their house yeast, which is celebrated with beers like their Honeycrumb (made with

rye bread from Abby Jane in Dripping Springs and local honey) and Treeform. This rustic IPA was inspired by their desire to offer an IPA that fit the climate and landscape of Texas — dry, balanced, with floral and spicy farmhouse notes. Each year in the late summer, they also brew a special “cave beer,” a spontaneously fermented “super funky and sour” beer brewed in barrels in the natural limestone cave on the property. Though they only produce a small batch, it will be available throughout the fall and early winter.

The brewery also offers food, with a slight lean toward healthier options, though the chips and queso is an indulgent must, a bowl of cheesy goodness complemented with fresh pico de gallo and sprinkles of queso fresco. In addition to fun apps like the queso and warm pretzels with beer mustard, the menu includes a variety of sandwiches, such as the mouth-watering vegan Freakin’ Hippie, with a delicious tapenade, hummus, tomato, spinach and cucumbers. They use local ingredients when possible and make everything they can in-house.

Just down the road from Roughhouse, right on Ranch Road 12, is Middleton Brewing. There’s no reason not to hit up both breweries and enjoy their unique offerings. Middleton has a more urban vibe, with a spacious indoor bar, patio and rooftop seating.

The beers, all brewed in house, have something for everyone from the Spring Fed Kolsch to the much heavier Black Lab Porter. Depending on the time of day, you can get a full meal from the food truck parked on the premises, and you can help yourself to free popcorn any time inside the bar.

A ghost note is a musical note that has rhythmic value but no perceptible pitch. These notes aren’t only in music, though. Figuratively, these are indiscernible beats that add texture and depth to our lives, as explained by the owners of Ghost Note Brewing. They are more felt than heard, like a light breeze or a single drop of rain. When it comes

to beer, there are ghost notes in the water, grains and yeast that are fermented as well as in the wood and steel of the containers where it’s made. They influence each batch of beer. The goal is to blend these notes together to achieve a harmony that can be tasted. With a philosophy like that behind this brewery, what beer-lover could resist the temptation to stop in? Fresh, porch-style craft beer is brewed on the premises, which is a relaxing outdoor space — dogand kid-friendly with ample parking and ample seating. They also serve local wines and ciders and have Frida’s taco food truck on site.

Another option for bouncing around the breweries in and around Wimberley is to park it at The Shady Llama. Not a brewery themselves, they proudly celebrate and serve Texas beers and wines. Similar to the owners of Roughhouse, Lamar and Karalisa Sellers gave up corporate jobs to live the dream of owning and operating a beer garden, inspired by their college days enjoying The Flying Saucer in Austin. With a twoyear-old daughter when they built The Shady Llama (named after the llamas that came with the property … now a family of eight), they wanted to create a place where they would want to hang out — a familyand dog-friendly space with a laid-back vibe, playground and occasional visits from the llamas.

The bar has fostered deep community connections with patrons as well as with local breweries. “About half our wall [the beers on tap] is due to the actual breweries in the area bringing their beer directly to us, and

appreciate how seriously they take the service of the beer. “We like to think we’re like a museum. We curate. We don’t make any of it; we’re not the artists, but we appreciate it and love to help others appreciate it.”

Luis “Beto” Robledo’s Costillas de Puerco en Salsa Verde with Fresh Flour Tortillas

It’s been a year since Luis “Beto” Robledo, owner of Mexico Citystyle taco truck Cuantos Tacos in Arbor Food Park, opened his second truck Cuantas Hamburguesas. The truck eschews seed oils in a concession to health consciousness, serving hand-cut fries prepared with beef tallow. Their hearty, juicy burgers layer one or two smashed beef patties underneath rich toppings and alongside bold flavors, like longaniza, chimichurri mayo and corn tortillas on the Campechana burger, or pickled jalapenos, pineapple and ham on the Hawaiiana. A beef hotdog makes the Sincronizada extra succulent, while the Americana hews closer to the north of the border hamburger with lettuce, tomato and ketchup. Robledo recently told us to keep our eyes peeled for additions yet to come. He also shared the recipe for one of his favorite meals. This one comes from his mother, Rosa Andrade, one of his earliest teachers in the art of cooking.

FOR THE RIBS:

2 racks of baby back ribs

2.5–3 qt. chicken stock

4 bay leaves

½ onion, roughly chopped

Pinch of thyme, salt and pepper

FOR THE GREEN SALSA

10 tomatillos

1 bulb garlic, peeled

1 tomato (whole)

1 onion, roughly chopped

1 poblano pepper, stemmed

Pinch of salt

Pinch of pepper

1 T. garlic powder

1 T. chicken bouillon

1 c. water

Simmer the ribs with the rest of the ingredients until fully cooked, about 45 minutes to an hour. As the ribs simmer, prepare the green salsa.

For the salsa, roast the tomatillos, peeled garlic cloves, whole tomato, onion and poblano on a hot comal for about 5 minutes, turning once until they all develop a light char. Blend roasted vegetables with salt, pepper, garlic powder, bouillon and water. Work in batches if necessary. Add salsa to the pot of pork and broth and continue to simmer for another 15–20 minutes until the meat falls off the bone. Serve with warm tortillas on the side.

FOR THE FLOUR TORTILLAS

3 c. flour

2 t. salt (kosher or table)

2 t. baking powder

1 stick of butter

Mix the dry ingredients in medium bowl and set aside. Bring water to boil and turn heat off as soon as the water boils, then add the butter. Melt the butter in the water, then mix into the flour while the butter is still warm. Form the dough into a smooth ball, cover, and let dough rest for ten minutes. Dust a countertop with a bit of flour and then dust the ball of dough. Using the counter as your new workspace, fold the dough in on itself and then flatten, repeating the process several times. Divide the dough ball into roughly eight balls of equal size. Roll each ball out with a rolling pin until it is flat and thin, about eight inches in diameter. Cook each tortilla on a hot comal, about two minutes and then turn OR turn when it begins to bubble, heating until the tortilla is cooked through and a nice golden color.

WORDS BY CHRISTINA GARCIA PHOTOS BY RALPH YZNAGA

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