Edible Columbus Summer 2021 by Edible Columbus

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COLUMBUS THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD

Member of Edible Communities No. 45 | Summer 2021

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SUMMER 2021 | CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS 3

EDITOR’S NOTE

5 #EDIBLECOLUMBUS

EDIBLE ENTREPRENEUR

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

18 ARTISAN 28 RECIPES 38 HERO 41

SMALL BITES

FE AT URES 8

FARMERS MARKETS BOUNCE BACK Social aspects begin to return as pandemic restrictions loosen By Nancy McKibben, Scott Gowans, Wynne Everett and Gary Kiefer

20 THE BIRDS & THE BEEF The first in a series of thought leadership stories from Edible Communities By Joy Manning

32 WILLOWBEEZ SOULVEG Carnell Willoughby has found a new home for his business By Rebecca Tien

C O V ER

Photography by Reilly Wright

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EDITOR’S NOTE

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orking on this magazine gives us the wonderful opportunity to talk with people who are passionate about what they do and the role they play in bringing various types of food to our community. Those we interviewed for this issue had a largely optimistic outlook for the summer and the year ahead. It was a welcome sentiment. I can recall very distinctly doing interviews for our summer issue last year, and those were not optimistic in tone. “Heartbreaking” is a better description. We talked to people and businesses across the food spectrum about the new and frightening challenge of COVID-19. The state had shut down restaurants and bars. A ban on large gatherings had effectively wiped out catering operations. An estimated 300,000 Ohio food service workers had lost their jobs. It was a traumatic time, as you certainly recall. The pandemic is not over, but the more upbeat outlook in this issue reflects the view that we are in a much better place for the summer of 2021. As I write this, nearly 40% of Ohio residents have been fully vaccinated. The state has lifted most restrictions. Restaurants are hiring. In these pages you will meet some people whose hopeful viewpoint has translated into action as they move their food businesses from pop-up operations to permanent homes. Carnell Willoughby (Willowbeez SoulVeg), Isabella Bonello (Three Bites Bakery) and the team of Annie Williams Pierce, Luke Pierce and Tyler Minnis (Boxwood Biscuit Co.) are all passionate about their food, and they all saw opportunity ahead. Likewise, the people we spoke with who run farmers markets around Central Ohio are enthusiastic about the prospects of this summer season. Last year they were able to operate as “essential businesses,”

COLUMBUS PUBLISHER

Franklin County Farm Bureau EDITOR IN CHIEF

Gary Kiefer | gary@ediblecolumbus.com

but they also had to deal with a ban on large gatherings. Although some of their solutions, such as online pre-ordering, were efficient, they were not as enjoyable as traditional market shopping. This year the market managers expect bigger crowds as they mix a bit of fun in with the business, even with precautions in place. Franklin Park Conservatory’s Michele Bailey put it this way: “I think everybody is feeling better about this summer, and we’re all just chomping at the bit to get back in society and talk to people.” I’m glad to live in a place where vaccines are readily available, and I wish that were true for the whole world. As soon as my wife and I and our three adult children all were vaccinated, we gathered for the first time in more than a year. That was our biggest sign of hope for the future. If you have been vaccinated, I thank you for helping us all move forward. If you are still hesitant, please discuss your concerns with people you trust: your doctor, clergy, family and friends. Whatever your situation, I hope this summer finds you with a full plate and an optimistic outlook. —Gary Kiefer gary@ediblecolumbus.com

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SUMMER 2021

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#ediblecolumbus Share your edible endeavors with us on Instagram via #ediblecolumbus! Here are a few of our recent favorites... Reilly Wright

From top, left to right:

@thekillerk @yourcolumbusfoodie @tuckandtate @eastonfoode @munchybeak @emmabeeatin @foodorflight @for_the_love_of_cbus @ar_snavley |

Founders Tyler Minnis, Annie Pierce and Luke Pierce

Boxwood Biscuit Co. Grows Up Pandemic pop-up experiment expands into full-time business By Anna Kurfees | Photography by Blake Needleman

f there’s one good thing that has come out of the pandemic, it was the inception of Boxwood Biscuit Co., a chef-driven pop-up turned brick-and-mortar café. The business was founded by Tyler Minnis, Annie Pierce and her husband, Luke Pierce. Annie and Luke are the owners of Law Bird Bar, which had opened just four months before the pandemic started. They are Columbus natives who have worked in the restaurant industry all their lives. Minnis came to Boxwood from A&R Creative Group, where he was the executive chef of The Market IV. The Pierces had the idea for Boxwood Biscuit Co. in their back pocket for some time. When the pandemic hit and Law Bird turned into a grab-and-go shop, they realized the Law Bird kitchen was going to go unused. Planning to launch Boxwood out of the Law Bird kitchen as a pop-up on the weekends, they approached Minnis with the idea and he was fully on board.

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From initial inception to launch day in August 2020 was about two and a half months of work, meaning Minnis spent a lot of time baking test biscuits in his home kitchen. Developing and executing a new venture at any time is hard work. During a pandemic, and on top of operating the Law Bird shop, the team had to work double-time to thoughtfully develop menu items that would work well for carryout and also source new restaurant equipment such as double-deck ovens needed for the plan. “Although it was a lot of work to get it going, it was rewarding to see everyone react the way they did to the food and drinks,” the Pierces wrote. A collaboration they did with Hot Chicken Takeover was a big hit and showed the potential of the business. The group decided to turn Boxwood Biscuit into a full-time operation. They launched a crowdfunding effort early this year

EDIBLE ENTREPRENEUR

and in March opened their business at 19 W. Russell St. in the Short North, formerly the home of the Belgian Iron Wafel Co. When asked where he finds inspiration for Boxwood’s unique menu items, Minnis said, “I have always cooked seasonally so I still find inspiration from our local farmers and ingredients that are around town at any given moment. Inspiration also comes from anywhere. A memory of my grandmother making biscuits … with crabapple jam made from the tree in her backyard. Gravy made by my old roommate (he didn’t put miso in his), or Appalachian and southern cuisine.” While the original pop-up focused on biscuits and biscuit sandwiches for brunch, the new shop allowed the owners to expand the hours and the menu and feature their special-recipe chicken. “We fry our chicken in a double-dip Korean batter method, which keeps our chicken extra crispy and helps it travel a little bit better,” Minnis said. “We use a lot of miso, soy sauce, chili, garlic, ginger, fermented chili and anything else that will help add flavor to our dishes.” The Pierces see Columbus as a good proving ground for independent restaurants. “We believe the growth of the city has created a need for unique, independent restaurants that are run by people who put food and drink and their people first. We are constantly excited and inspired by those making it happen.” They were troubled to see the pandemic have “such a devas-

tating impact on our industry,” they wrote. “We’re anxiously awaiting the reopening and resurgence of some of our favorite spots.” Boxwood Biscuit serves breakfast, lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday. On the menu you can find biscuits and gravy, biscuit sandwiches, salads and the three-piece chicken bucket. There’s also a selection of sweets. For the first-time visitor, Minnis recommends ordering the biscuits and gravy, which is where it all began. There are gravy flights and specials for those who like to change things up. Not to be forgotten are the French fries, which are in the shape of a miniature potato skin. They’re crispy, and can be eaten plain or dunked in Boxwood’s gravies and sauces. Annie offers this advice: Don’t sleep on the Caesar salad and make sure to add fried chicken! Boxwood Biscuit Co. is open Wednesday–Saturday 7:30am to 8:30pm and Sunday 7:30am to 3pm. To keep up with all the important Law Bird or Boxwood or Law Bird updates, follow @boxwoodbiscuitco and @lawbirdbar on Instagram. Anna Kurfees is an amateur chef, freelance writer and social media consultant. She is passionate about showcasing and supporting local businesses. You can find her on Instagram at @behind_themenu or via email at behindthemenu614@gmail. com. |

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FARMERS MARKETS BOUNCE BACK Social aspects begin to return as pandemic restrictions loosen By Nancy McKibben, Scott Gowans, Wynne Everett and Gary Kiefer Photography by Reilly Wright

ne sure sign of summer is the appearance of farmers markets in cities and towns across Ohio. If the markets this year are not quite back to normal, they at least are making strides in that direction.

In the pandemic summer of 2020, farmers markets were designated as essential businesses, but they were diminished by the circumstances. Under the restrictions at the time, some chose not to open at all. Others had to find new locations that allowed for social distancing. Visitors could get hand sanitizer but no food samples. Online ordering and drive-through pickup began but live music ended. Customers were asked to leave children and dogs at home. If the business of the markets continued, much of the fun had been lost. As more Ohioans get vaccinated against COVID-19 and the state drops restrictions, Edible Columbus asked some area market managers about their efforts to adapt and their plans moving forward. |

Worthington Farmers Market: Home again

hristine Hawks, manager of the Worthington Farmers Market since April 2019, has a degree in hospitality management from Washington State University, a background in digital marketing and varied business development and management experience. But what job prepares you for a global pandemic? When non-essential businesses closed in March 2020, “There were empty grocery shelves,” she said. “But we had eggs. The pandemic changed the way people looked at farmers markets. We weren’t just a social event, but an essential service.” Because few Ohio farmers markets are open in the winter as Worthington is, they became a pioneer in safely connecting producers and customers under pandemic guidelines. Hawks conferred with the market’s parent organization, the Old Worthington Partnership, as well as the City of Worthington and the Columbus Board of Public Health. To their combined credit, the winter market closed for only one Saturday. The next Saturday, backed by legions of volunteers, the operation transformed into a drive-through, contactless outdoor market, complete with clever signage, at Worthington Community Center, where customers picked up purchases they had ordered online. “I was amazed at how many people came out in March to help,” Hawks said. “Board members and community members—entire families, many of my colleagues” stood cheerfully outside in the coldest weather on market days, directing traffic and assisting vendors. As a member of a national farmers market managers group, she also was “grateful and thankful to have resources on the West Coast,” where markets felt the effects of the pandemic first and developed signage and social media graphics that Worthington used for its “reset.”

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Each Saturday an ever-growing caravan of cars crawled through the parking lot to pick up their prepaid purchases. It was a spectacular recovery, but far from ideal. After all, farmers markets are built on the friendly contact between producer and customer that people were now being advised to avoid. “Some producers didn’t have the resources for websites,” Hawks said. “Most had never sold online before. And we couldn’t take SNAP or EBT [food assistance]. That was a huge concern.” When the community center announced a construction project, Hawks and her allies began searching for a summer market venue. Parking lots are not the most picturesque venues, but with people working at home, there were lots of empty ones. The Worthington market found two, spending the first weeks of summer at Paradigm Properties on West Wilson Bridge Road, and the rest of the season at Worthington Industries, “a fantastic host and location.” Again people could stroll around, buy on impulse, pay with

cash or EBT cards. Masked customers waited in line to enter the market, but the long lines moved quickly. In October, the winter market went back indoors at Worthington Square, with vendors still distanced due to COVID restrictions. Three merchants opted to brave the cold of the parking lot all winter, which did not seem to blunt the loyalty of their customers. Using data from last summer’s headcounts, Hawks and her cohorts determined that the summer 2021 market could return to downtown Worthington, to the delight of vendors, customers and merchants. Today the market sprawls from the village greens on the north to just south of the Worthington Post Office. For now, social distancing and masking continue. Although Hawks herself doubtless deserves much of the applause for the market’s successful transformation, she is quick to share the credit. “Volunteers are truly the base of this farmers market, and they’ve been on the front lines to pitch in wherever needed,” she said. “The community came to the rescue and we’re still here and thriving.” —Nancy McKibben |

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Clintonville Farmers Market: A fresh start

hen the coronavirus emerged last spring, organizers of the much-loved Clintonville Farmers Market were forced to choose between keeping the market in Clintonville and having a market at all.

and customers both have taken to some of the changes prompted by the pandemic. Allowing customers to order ahead and then pick up their goods via drive-through proved so popular that Clintonville Farmers Market will use it again this year.

Since 2003 the market had operated along North High Street at Dunedin Road, a convenient walk for most Clintonville regulars. The site was too small, however, to allow for adequate social distancing. This prompted organizers to move last spring to the parking lot of the Ohio History Connection, 800 E. 17th Ave.

Customers who order online can be sure the produce or other goods they want will be available without having to race to the market first thing in the morning. Producers appreciate that online pre-orders help them better plan for what to bring to the market. At the end of last year’s season, a survey of customers showed 80% wanted the market to keep the e-commerce option.

“It was definitely a test, that’s for sure,” said Executive Director Michelle White. Officials had some concerns about what it would mean to move a popular neighborhood market out of its neighborhood, but they quickly discovered the new site came with some advantages. It had plenty of parking and is just a short, seven-minute drive from Clintonville so many regular customers made the trip. And many new customers joined them. “I feel like we’ve served a much bigger population,” White said. “We’ve had customers coming from Westerville and Dublin and Groveport. There are some good things!” Market officials were happy with how the season had gone at the new site as fall arrived. Case counts were surging and the pandemic situation still seemed uncertain when they had to sign contracts and formalize plans for this season’s market, so Clintonville officials committed to stay another year at the Ohio History Connection lot. “We’re back and we’re happy to be here,” White said. The market is open from 9am to noon each Saturday through Nov. 20. While it will be another season away from their home neighborhood, White said market vendors

Organizers hope to return to the original Clintonville location in 2022, but are eager to make the most of the temporary site for one more season. Even as the pandemic is less of a threat this year, White said customers are happy to have space to spread out and shop outdoors. The market has 60 vendors to start the season, including a new guacamole vendor from Findlay, new fruit farmers, new bakers and several new urban farmers from Columbus. While the season started with live music for opening day, White says market officials are still considering whether music should be a weekly feature. Organizers want to focus on the essential mission of the market, which is continuing to provide fresh, local food to the community. “We want to focus on what it is that we do, which is connect people to local food,” White said. Next season White hopes the market can return to its original home in Clintonville, complete with the live music and neighborhood vibe that many loved. “I hope next year for our 20th season we will be back in our old spot with a blowout,” White said. —Wynne Everett |

Granville Farmers Market: Focus on variety

rtisan cheese from Fredericktown, sugar-sweet carrots from Alexandria. Cinnamon-creamed honey competes for your attention with mushrooms and cucamelons. Where else can one find goat-milk soaps next to gooseberries but at a summer farmers market? Since 1993, farmers and eager customers have flocked on Saturday mornings to the Granville Farmers Market, which runs this year from May 1 through Oct. 30 at Raccoon Valley Park on River Road. Granville boasts one of the bigger markets in the state, as well as one of the oldest. The more than 50 vendors include local farmers, bakers and specialty producers, who shun large volume in favor of high-quality, often organic goods. There is also a Tuesday market beginning June 8, which runs through Sept. 28 in the parking lot of Ross’ Granville Market on South Main Street.

able to hand out samples was the biggest obstacle for me.” But sales were good.

Market Master Steve Matheny, executive director of the Granville Chamber of Commerce, has a soft spot for the market. “We are a growers market,” he said, “meaning that the vendors grow the produce themselves. Nothing is bought from somewhere else and resold.

Bird continued, “I was the biggest stick-in-the-mud last year about it not being by the Methodist church downtown. But we weren’t breaking a forever tradition by moving to Raccoon. Parking was no longer an issue, and the vendors had extra feet to spread out.”

“We have some unique vendors, such as our apiarist [beekeeper]. We very much emphasize variety.”

Some of the vendors had their best sales year ever, according to Matheny. “I do think that customers were down in 2020, but those who did come bought more purposely. They weren’t there to socialize,” he said.

Bryn Bird, whose family farm has been a part of the market almost since the beginning, said, “We have high-quality products, but we’re not at all pretentious. That ensures the local makers do well. It’s not as competitive; it’s more of a community. Not all markets share that philosophy.” Like everybody else, the market had to invent a different routine in 2020. Pre-COVID, it was held on a closed-off street downtown. It moved first to the high school parking lot, then to Raccoon. There simply wasn’t enough space to have it in the village center with social distancing in place. Designated an essential business, farmers markets carried on and vendors discovered that buyers still came out. Bird said, “It was weird not to see kids at the market, and not being

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The pandemic also had the unforeseen effect of making the vendors offer their wares online so that customers could pre-order goods. The long line to buy fresh sweet corn, for example, was no longer an issue, because the purchasing was done on the web. The usual cautions are in place once more in 2021 (masks, no samples, etc.), but the market offers a cornucopia of goods during these trying times. Bird said, “Even in a pandemic, we had a spectacular year, and we remember the lessons. Keep coming out, and buy local.” —Scott Gowans

Franklin Park Conservatory: The market returns

he weekly farmers market that ran for years at the Franklin Park Conservatory and Botanical Gardens never opened last summer, a victim of the pandemic. In fact, the entire conservatory remained closed to the public for three months. So it’s a mark of progress that the farmers market is back open this summer, with 20 vendors set up each Wednesday in the parking lot, along with a food truck each week and live music on some dates. “It’s so important to the conservatory to be a part of the community,” said Market Manager Michele Bailey. “Local food access is part of that.”

Edible Columbus has compiled a full list of area farmers markets on our website, ediblecolumbus.com.

She also is coordinator of the conservatory’s Teen Corps, a youth internship program focused on urban farming. Participants learn to grow vegetables and then sell them at the farmers market. “We like having the farmers market because it helps connect us to the community around us in so many ways,” she said. The conservatory market started up June 2 and will run from 3:30 to 6:30pm each Wednesday through Sept. 1. As with other area markets, visitors are asked to wear masks and will find wide aisles with vendors spread out.

Follow the “Find a Farmers Market” link.

“It’s always fun to meet the farmers who grew the squash that you’re putting on your dinner table,” Bailey said. “And part of the pleasure is knowing that you helped that farmer put food on their table because you purchased something from them.” —Gary Kiefer

Nancy McKibben is happy to combine her loves of eating and writing with the opportunity to advocate for sustainable agriculture in the pages of Edible Columbus. Her latest project is Yucatecan Lullaby, a bilingual (English and Spanish) children’s picture book. She is also a novelist, poet and lyricist, the mother of six and wife of one. View her work at nancymckibben.com; contact her at nmckibben@leader.com.

Scott Gowans lives on a family farm in Granville, where he tends a herd of dachshunds and a brace of cats. He can be reached at scottgowans@gmail.com.

Wynne Everett is a Columbus native who grew up eating fruits and vegetables from her grandparents’ farm and beef bought on the hoof at the county fair. She’s now a vegetarian and a veteran journalist whose career has taken her to Buffalo, Pittsburgh, Chicago and Toledo. She has a passion for food stories and can be reached at wynneeverett@gmail. com. |

The Welcome Return of Restaurants From matchbooks to memories, restaurants have always given us much more than food By Malinda Meadows

n the not-too-distant past, restaurant matchbooks were very much a part of the norm. Originally designed with a two-fold purpose in mind, these matchbooks served as a clever marketing ploy as well as a convenient method for lighting up a post-dinner cigarette. But soon, a third purpose arose that extended far beyond its intended uses—and to nonsmokers, too. These little cardboard books housing a colorful collection of pent-up hotheads served as something much more nostalgic: an old-school memento. Restaurant matchbooks became a reminder of a joyous night, a special celebration, a travel souvenir. Early matchbook designs even left intentional white space on the inner fold—just the right amount of space for jotting down the phone number of a new interest one might have just met.

As it happens, many of these matches were created right here in Ohio, in the northeastern city of Wadsworth. As the second-oldest match manufacturer in the United States, the Ohio Match Co. played a significant role in the creation of restaurant matchbooks until its demise in 1987. While the company did produce some innovative and recognizable trademarks (such as “Ohio Blue Tip” and “Rosebud”), Ohio was, perhaps

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appropriately, known for its slow but steady approach. While smoking rates have since plummeted and healthier habits now prevail, the desire for a restaurant memento didn’t quite burn out with smoking sections. It simply evolved.

Restaurant mementos today As restaurants suffered through pandemic restrictions this past year, the residents of Columbus and other cities across the nation have rallied in support of their favorite restaurants in hopes of returning once again. While restaurant matchbooks are less common now, restaurant-goers have always found unique ways to remember special places or mark the passing of time. For the nostalgic among us, this might mean saving paper receipts from this past year as a snapshot of this pandemic time. Others have purchased keepsakes like branded mugs, T-shirts and hats alongside their takeout orders to help support their favorite places. Some even collected menus from restaurants that didn’t survive the pandemic, preserving a slice of history. As we now inch into summer—some 400 days after the pandemic began—more and more Americans are able to access the coronavirus vaccine, and more and more restaurants are

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

inching closer to full capacity with hints of normalcy returning. That’s welcome news to all. The sooner that restaurants can safely return to their full potential, the sooner we can return to the sounds of clinking glasses and shared laughter. The sooner we can return to celebrating, connecting, commemorating and commiserating with those we love. And while certain tactile reminders like restaurant matchbooks might seem like a distant memory, hopefully the memory of the restaurants we love and long for can fully roar back to life. And roar back they must. Even from their earliest conception, such establishments have always been much more than places we go when we don’t want to cook. Originating from the French verb “restaurer,” the term restaurant means to “restore” or “revive,” and long have we benefited from this restoration and nourishment in the form of both nutrients and community. Restaurants can also store, memorialize and transmit the most important moments of our lives. While a restaurant

matchbook—or a pulp board coaster or a paper receipt or a swizzle stick or a special glass—may seem minuscule, the sum has always been greater than its parts. Restaurants have always been a part of us, and we of them. And with our help this summer and beyond, this can continue to be so. Slow and steady, may we return to gatherings in Ohio. Slow and steady, may we return to the restaurants that have always served up our favorites. Slow and steady, may we return to the places so integral to the very fabric of our lives. And when the evening comes to a close, let whatever small mementos you capture on your way out—even if it’s just a snapped photo this time—be a small reminder that while we ultimately go to restaurants for food, we always leave with much more. Malinda Meadows is a freelance writer based in Columbus but will travel the world for a good meal. She loves handmade pasta, Swedish music and the first day in a new city. Find more of her writing at malindainthesnow.com or follow along on Instagram @malindainthesnow. |

Isabella Bonello Takes On the World Three Bites Bakery gets ready to move out of her home kitchen Story and Photography by Angela Lee

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eated on a plush red sofa is Isabella Bonello, the one-woman show behind the home baking business Three Bites Bakery. But she is more than just a baker; she is a Muay Thai martial arts enthusiast, a daughter of immigrants and a pursuer of dreams. Her journey into the realm of baking is an unconventional one. Graduating from Ohio State University with dual degrees in psychology and Italian, she felt out of place in the corporate world. She had dreams of opening up her own bakery, so she honed her skills in jobs at local businesses: North Star Café, Fox in the Snow, Pistacia Vera and even the L Brands corporate café. Her aim was to develop something she believed was missing in the city: a bakery without limitations. Starting as a side business in 2019 and blossoming to a full-time home bakery, Three Bites was born from the attention to the craft and creativity that comes with baking. With no defined limitations or signature style, it offers to Columbus residents items that are both familiar and approachable, but with a hint of adventure in trying something new. Its menu, featuring treats that can be eaten in about three bites and taken on the go, is continually changing. Like the city itself, the bakery is the culmination of cultures and experiences. With inspiration from her Filipino and Italian heritage, Bonello creates treats that provide a sense of traveling the world. A warm bite of a freshly baked ube pandesal with cheese could transport you onto the bustling streets of the Philippines. A bite of a sugar-dusted bomboloni, as creamy and sweet custard drips down the side, might carry you into the Italian countryside. A taste of the crispy brown butter citrus shortbread could whisk you away to a European café. Upon request, Bonello also creates custom cakes that become a form of art. The biggest lesson has been learning to trust her instincts and believing in herself. Managing a home bakery in the midst of a pandemic has been no cakewalk. “Not having separation between where you work and where you live is such a challenge. There’s no point where you get to decompress on your way home from work,” she said. “But everyone has to start from somewhere. It’s been nice to see [the business] being built from the ground up.” Looking to the future, she plans to open a brick-and-mortar shop this summer at 999 Mt. Vernon Ave. in the King-Lincoln neighborhood. “I’m looking forward to my home to be my home and my kitchen to be my kitchen again,” she said. But when asked about how she is doing given all the events that have happened this past year, and especially during the past

ARTISAN couple of months, she pauses. “It’s such a layered topic. At least for me, I’ve always struggled with my own cultural identity being mixed and it adds a layer of complexity to the conversation. But then to know that someone can hate me just because of what I look like, it’s scary. And being a female Asian business owner, it’s hard not to feel apprehension. [These attacks] could have happened to me. And that is hard to reconcile. I worry about my mom. I worry about my family that lives in California. Those Filipino grandpas that were attacked, they sound like my grandfather. And how do you not take that personally? And all this is still happening during the Black Lives Matter movement. There’s no good answer to all this. ... None of this makes sense,” she says.

Isabella Bonello

She adds, “I’m the product of immigrants. Most of us are. This country is built from immigrants. And growing up, we all just wanted to fit in. But in immigrant populations, cooking was such an integral part of passing along traditions and culture. For us, eating was ceremonial in a way. You come together over food.”

Her bakery is a new link in that cultural tradition. “I always felt so different from other people. And that became more apparent when I moved [from California] to Columbus. Culture shock for sure,” she said. “It’s only been now through Three Bites Bakery that I’ve become more connected to my culture and heritage and have been able to share it with others.” To Bonello, a bakery is a happy place. “I want to create a space where people can feel a little bit of joy during their day. I feel fulfilled and content by bringing joy and creating experiences for people through this craft and through these treats.” For her, the first bite of a Three Bites Bakery treat “means everything.” “When someone tries my stuff for the first time, and seeing people who are return customers, it means the world to me. To see people believe in me, it makes me feel like I’m doing something right. Food was always such a cornerstone of my upbringing. So I’d like to be able to share that with people. And it’s a good feeling.” Learn more about the business, see the menu and order online at threebitesbakery.com. Angela Lee is a food photographer, freelance writer and social media strategist. She’s always in search of her next culinary adventure. You can find her on Instagram at @FindYourFork or via email at FindYourFork@gmail.com. |

E A T. D R I N K . T H I N K . How we inhabit this planet and envision its future is more critical

—consumers who have the power to reshape the world we live in. Every

now than at any time in our history. This past year has certainly taught

farmer, rancher, entrepreneur and organization we champion is better off

us that—it has exposed our vulnerabilities, our frail insignificance in the

because of you. You read, learn, take action and vote with your forks. It will

scheme of things. Yet during this turbulent and challenging time we have

be you who ultimately tilts the scale toward a more sustainable future, a

also found hope.

more sustainable food system.

On the following pages, we bring you the first in a series of thought lead-

Thank you for joining us as we collectively set our sights on creating a

ership stories that span topics on sustainability, hunger, restaurant revital-

future that is nothing less than extraordinary. One that binds the ecosystems

ization and regenerative agriculture. These are the values that Edible Com-

of our lives to Mother Nature without a disconnect between what is on our

munities, as an organization, has been devoted to for the past two decades.

plates and where it comes from—where all of the seemingly smaller choices

Our work lends itself to the singular notion that excellent storytelling has

we make today add up to massive, beautiful and everlasting positive change.

the power to change lives; and that by exploring and elevating important conversations like these, we can create massive change.

Tracey Ryder

We also know that change is impossible without the support of our readers

Marshall Johnson, Vice President of Conservation Ranching for Audubon standing in a field of prairie grass. Photo courtesy of Audubon

Words Bill and Katie Delaney Photos Jesse Brantman

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edible Communities |

S IG N AT U RE

S E C TI O N

Co-Founder, Edible Communities

T H E BI R DS & T H E BE E F WO R DS

Joy Manning

P HOTOS

Candice Vivien

You’ve seen the headlines: Beef is destroying the planet.

now means adding 1 million acres of land to the 2.5 million

You’ve heard all about the greenhouse gases and pollution a

acres that have already been certified as bird-friendly. “It means

typical beef operation produces. But the idea that beef is an en-

a lot to partner with an organization that has built its brand in

vironmental disaster isn’t quite that simple. Those dire warnings

alignment with our core values,” says Johnson.

are based on one kind of beef: The conventional, factory-farmed

Darrell Wood, founding Panorama rancher, was the first in

kind. And it is, by far, the most commonly consumed beef in

the network to get certified. “I volunteered. I wanted to see how

North America. In fact, 97% of the beef in the US food supply

it went and what the level of difficulty would be for ranchers,”

is grain-fed, feedlot beef.

he says. And he discovered the benefits greatly outweighed any

But there’s another way to produce beef, a way that actu-

extra effort. In large part, the certification is an acknowledge-

ally enriches the environment. And it’s happening across at

ment of what Panorama ranches, all of which were already or-

least 3.5 million acres of American grassland. Kay Cornelius,

ganic, have been doing for years.

a fourth-generation rancher and new general manager at Pan-

As part of the program, each ranch gets an annual visit from

orama Meats, intends to add another million acres to that total

a rangeland biologist who takes soil samples, measures the veg-

by 2030 through a groundbreaking new partnership with an

etation, and assesses how the ranch affects bird life. Then Audu-

unlikely ally: The National Audubon Society.

bon creates a habitat management plan for the rancher with suggestions for improvements. “The ranches enrolled are going

A NEW SE A L O F A P P R OVA L “All of our data proves that grassland birds are the most im-

to become even more bird friendly, but they were already doing great things,” says Johnson.

periled group of bird species in America. Grassland birds have lost 53% of their population since 1970, and 95% of all grass-

FARMERS F IRST

land birds live on cattle ranches,” says Marshall Johnson, vice-

Cornelius isn’t new to dramatically growing a network of

president of Audubon’s conservation ranching initiative. The

environmentally friendly farmers. Before taking the helm of

nonprofit’s “Grazed on Audubon Certified Bird-friendly Land”

Panorama Meats as general manager last September, she dou-

seal was established to recognize ranches that are managed in a

bled sales in her role as vice president for the biggest and best-

way that protects those birds. Saving these birds is a vital part of

known name in humanely raised meats, Niman Ranch. “I spent

maintaining biodiversity. Like bees, birds are important pollina-

12 years there working for farmers, and in my new job I’m still

tors, and they help maintain the delicate balance of a grassland

helping farmers earn a living,” she says.

ecosystem.

Finding ways to grow and protect a rancher’s livelihood is a

Through Audubon’s new partnership with Panorama, every

high priority for Cornelius personally and central to Panorama

ranch in Panorama’s network will earn that Grazed on Audubon

Meats’ mission. “I grew up in a rural community during the farm

Certified Bird-friendly Land seal. “We began the project of in-

crisis years. My mom and dad really struggled,” she says. The

troducing this certification in 2013, and we enrolled our first

experience of watching her once-thriving farming community

ranch in 2017,” says Johnson. Joining forces with Panorama

dry up back then informs everything she does today. “At Niman

| Visit ediblecommunities.com for more photos and podcasts

Ranch, we really celebrated the family farmer doing the right thing and we’re doing the same thing at Panorama.” The simplest way to keep these family farms in business is to ensure they are able to get their product to market and to be paid a fair price. Being part of Panorama’s network helps them accomplish these goals, and the Audubon’s bird-friendly seal provides a major boost, a way to make these special packages of meat stand out from everything else in the butcher’s case for environmental conscious consumers.

4 Ways to Shop for Sustainable Meat Not every supermarket is stocked with grass-fed, grass-finished and bird-friendly beef—yet. If you can’t find it at your store, there are still ways to purchase sustainable steaks, chops, and burgers wherever you are. Here are some tips to get you started. 1. SHOP ONLINE

Panorama has partnered with online retailer CrowdCow.com and you can find their beef as well as meat from other high-quality sustainable ranchers there.

2. BUY A COW SHARE

In many communities, smaller farmers and ranchers will sell onehalf, one-quarter, or one-eighth of a single animal to you. Check out EatWild.com to find one near you. Red-winged blackbird

SAVI NG G R ASS L A N D The connection between beef, birds, grassland, and climate change isn’t immediately obvious. To understand how a properly managed ranch can actually help remove carbon from the atmosphere, you have to understand the long history of North America’s grassland. Before they were hunted nearly to extinction in the

3 . S H O P AT YO U R FA R M E R S M A R K E T

Farmers markets are typically a great place to connect with the kind of farmers and ranchers who are passionate about sustainability and land stewardship.

late 19th century, wild bison grazed an area just the right amount to promote the growth of a complex and robust root system without killing the plants. Domestic cows, if left to their own devices, will eat the grass down to the bare earth, destroying the grassland. To make them more like their ancestors, ranchers must use rotational grazing, moving them from spot to spot to achieve that ideal level of grazing. “Cattle can mimic what historic bison used to do. That’s why we need them,” says Johnson. Continued...

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edible Communities |

S IG N AT U RE

S E C TI O N

4. ASK QUESTIONS

When you’re shopping, ask your butcher where the beef comes from and how it was raised. This educates you and lets them know there’s a demand for sustainable beef.

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Darrell Wood and Kay Cornelius of Panorama Organic

Without animals grazing, grassland becomes overwhelmed

these eco-minded ranchers can only protect the grassland, the

with weeds and invasive plant species. The soil quality is de-

birds, and the whole ecosystem it supports if they can earn a

graded, and animal life, birds and pollinators like bees lose their

living doing it.

habitat. Vernal pools dry up and disappear. Without well-man-

That’s where you come in.

aged grassland, some species can even become extinct. “There’s a vernal pool on my ranch that hosts an endangered species called

A MARK ET SOLUTION

fairy shrimp,” says Wood. “I have a stream that goes through

The way Kay Cornelius sees it, people are looking for three

my property that’s one of the major salmon spawning streams

things when they’re shopping for grass-fed beef. “They want

in California.”

to know it’s organic, they want to know that the animals were

And then there’s the matter of carbon. It’s true that cows emit

treated humanely, and they want to know about the environ-

carbon into the atmosphere, about 80 tons annually for a ranch

mental impact,” she says. “With the USDA organic seal and the

of 150 acres, according to the Texas Department of Agriculture.

Step 4 animal welfare standards, we had the first two covered.”

There’s also a certain amount of carbon emissions associated with

But until this new partnership with Audubon, Panorama had

the farm equipment (32 tons). But well-managed grassland, with

no iron-clad way to convey their commitment to the environ-

its deep root systems, lush vegetation, and rich soil, is actually

ment in a way easily understood by busy shoppers.

able to remove 500 tons of carbon from the atmosphere per year,

The Grazed on Audubon Certified Bird-friendly Land seal

giving it an overall positive effect on the environment rather than

requires third-party certification. Audubon is one of the most

a negative one. It should be noted that this only applies to cattle

trusted names in conservation. This means, in an era of spuri-

ranches with high standards for land management and environ-

ous label claims, the Audubon seal stands out as meaningful.

mental stewardship--not conventional factory farms.

According to Johnson, since the first ranches were enrolled in

Raising beef cattle on pasture this way does take longer:

the program in 2016, bird abundance has increased on those

Cows don’t fatten up as quickly without the grains provided by

grasslands by 36%. This is a good indication that other species,

feedlots, and they expend more energy grazing than on a feed-

especially bees and other pollinators necessary for the food sup-

lot. It also requires more space. As a result, a rancher practicing

ply, are flourishing as well.

this kind of regenerative agriculture cannot produce the same

“Consumers buy grass-fed beef to vote for a change in the envi-

volume of beef on the same acreage as a factory farm. Their beef

ronment. Paying a little more for beef is a nudge in the right direc-

must therefore be sold at a premium.

tion,” says Cornelius. It’s a small price to pay for doing your part to preserve America’s grassland and the birds that call it home. e

The preservation of this land is important to everyone, but

| 27 ediblecommunities.com

LEMON BLUEBERRY SCONES Makes 8 servings

Lemon Blueberry Scones might just be the perfect summer breakfast—or dessert! Filled with blueberries, lemon candies and vanilla, these scones from Hannah Lewis of The Beard and the Baker have delicious, fresh summer flavors. Serve these scones at a weekend brunch or make a batch for the week ahead and enjoy with a cup of coffee while watching your garden grow. If you’ve never made scones at home before, give them a try.

Ingredients 2 cups flour ½ cup white sugar 2½ teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup butter, frozen ½ cup canned coconut milk (high fat) 1 egg 1½ teaspoons Rodelle vanilla extract 1 heaping cup frozen blueberries (do not thaw) ½ cup blueberry lemonade Wilton Candy Melts

Directions Add flour, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon and salt together in a large bowl. Grate the frozen butter onto a plate using a cheese grater. Carefully add to the flour mixture and combine with your hands (pastry cutter or forks work, too) until the mixture comes together in about pea-sized crumbs. Set bowl in fridge. In a small bowl, whisk coconut milk, egg and vanilla extract until combined. Remove flour bowl from fridge and drizzle coconut milk mixture into it. Add frozen blueberries and, using a rubber spatula, combine all ingredients until fully mixed with minimal dry spots. Pour dough onto a floured counter and work into a ball, flouring your hands as needed. If dough is too sticky, add more flour. If dough is too dry, add a little bit more coconut milk. Shape into an 8-inch disc and then cut into 8 wedges using a knife or bench scraper. Brush scones with coconut milk, then set on a parchmentor silicone-lined baking sheet and refrigerate for 15 minutes, or longer. Once ready to bake, preheat oven to 400°F. Bake scones for 22–25 minutes, or until golden brown around the edges and lightly browned on top. Remove from the oven and place on a cooling rack while you prepare your blueberry lemonade Candy Melts.

Find more of Hannah’s recipes at her blog (thebeardandthebaker.com) and on Instagram (@thebeardandthebaker) and Facebook (facebook.com/thebeardandthebaker).

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Melt according to Candy Melt package then drizzle over slightly cooled scones and enjoy!

RECIPES

STEELHEAD TROUT WITH GARLIC HERB BUTTER Makes 4 servings

If you like fish, you’ll love this delicious Steelhead Trout with Garlic Herb Butter recipe. Steelhead trout are rainbow trout that venture into the ocean. When this happens, they grow larger and change color to look very similar to a salmon. This easy recipe from Christina Musgrave of Tasting with Tina involves baking a whole steelhead fillet topped with a garlic herb butter. This recipe is delicious and versatile! Serve with vegetables, on a salad, or chilled on toast as an appetizer.

Ingredients ½ stick softened butter Small handful basil, oregano and Italian parsley 2 cloves garlic, diced Pinch of salt and pepper 1 whole steelhead trout fillet Lemon slices

Directions Preheat oven to 350°F. Make your garlic butter: Chop your herbs and mix with the butter and garlic. Stir well and add a pinch of salt and pepper. Lay trout fillet on a lined baking sheet. Spread the herb butter all over the fish, coating evenly. Top fish with lemon slices. Bake for 25–30 minutes, or until done to your liking.

You can find more of Christina’s recipes at her website (tastingwithtina.com) or on Instagram (@tasting.with. tina) or Facebook (facebook.com/tastingwithtinablog).

PRICKLY PEAR MARGARITA Makes 1 serving

Laura Lee Pendy of the blog Cuisine & Cocktails cools down summer heat with this Prickly Pear Margarita. Filled with tequila, orange liqueur, lime juice, agave, prickly pear and jalapeño, this sweet and spicy cocktail is sure to be a hit. Serve this for a taco night on your backyard patio, or for a happy hour with friends. Ingredients 2 ounces silver tequila ¾ ounce orange liqueur ½ ounce fresh lime juice ½ ounce agave syrup ½ of a prickly pear, removed from skin (simply scoop out with spoon) 2–3 fresh jalapeño slices

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Directions Add all ingredients to a shaker. Muddle pear and jalapeño into liquid. Add ice. Shake 60 seconds. Double strain into a glass with fresh ice. Garnish with jalapeño and prickly pear slice. You can find more of Laura’s recipes at the Cuisine & Cocktails website (cuisineandcocktails.com), and on Instagram (@cuisineandcocktails) and Pinterest (pinterest.com/cuisineandcockt).

DOUBLE CHOCOLATE PECAN BANANA BREAD Yields 1 loaf

If you’ve been part of the banana bread craze over the past year, this recipe is for you. Local blogger and baker Autumn LeAnn makes a twist on banana bread that is delicious year round. Double Chocolate Pecan Banana Bread is a flavor-packed sweet treat. Our tip: Chill in the refrigerator before serving for a great way to beat the heat. Ingredients 3 bananas ½ cup unsalted butter, melted ¾ cup brown sugar ½ cup granulated sugar 1 egg 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup Hershey’s Special Dark Cocoa Powder (you can use any brand, but this is my personal favorite) ½ cup semi-sweet chocolate chips ½ cup chopped pecans Directions Mix together the bananas, brown sugar, granulated sugar, egg, vanilla extract and salt in one bowl until evenly combined. In a different bowl, whisk together the baking soda, all-purpose flour and cocoa powder. Add 1/3 of flour mixture to banana mixture and fold in to combine. Continue adding the flour mixture and folding in, 1/3 at a time until everything is combined. Fold your chocolate chips and pecans into the batter. Pour the batter into a greased loaf pan. If desired, sprinkle additional chopped pecans and chocolate chips on the top before baking. Bake at 350°F for 45–55 minutes, until an inserted toothpick comes out clean.

Check out all the great recipes on Autumn’s website (autumnleann.com), and follow her on Instagram (@theautumnleann) and Facebook (facebook.com/theautumnleann).

Let cool completely before cutting into slices. Enjoy! |

Positive Energy Drives Willowbeez Soulveg Carnell Willoughby has found a new home for his business at the North Market Story and Photography by Rebecca Tien

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Willowbeez specials: Mac&Plz, Lefteye SoulChili and the Soul Power Roll

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hen Carnell Willoughby was a child, his grandmother would shoo anyone out of the kitchen who didn’t have good energy, believing their negativity would bring bad energy to the food she cooked.

If there is truth to the notion that the mood you are in when you cook a dish will affect those who ingest it, then everyone who eats Willoughby’s food will be smiling all day long. He is a warm soul with a wide cheese-eating grin, except he doesn’t eat cheese or any other dairy and you won’t find it on the menu either at his new vegan eatery in the North Market, Willowbeez Soulveg. Diners won’t find themselves missing anything, however, in Willoughby’s vibrant, colorful, celebratory food. With offerings such as No Fish Fry (lightly breaded banana blossom flash-fried and served with fries and colorful “rebel slaw”); BBQ Jerk Portabella; and the original standby, Curry Cabbage, diners will find an array of bright and healthful options to tempt any palate. In his words, it’s “good fruit ... from strong roots.” The Curry Cabbage is a sentimental favorite because it’s a nod to his Aunt Ivy’s slow-cooked cabbage, taught to her by his aforementioned grandmother. It’s also the first dish he re-created with his own twist and started slinging at farmers markets almost a decade ago. The women in Willoughby’s family clearly shaped his early love of food—from his Grandma Brown, to his Aunt Ivy, to his mother, whom he refers to as the “Queen of Beans” because she could take what seemed like nothing and turn it into a wonderful something. His decision to become vegan, however, can be directly traced back to his neighbor, Frank Alan Hinkle, known by the neighborhood affectionately as Papa Doc. Hinkle promoted veganism for its health benefits. “He’d lecture us until we fell asleep at the dinner table,” laughs Willoughby as he fondly remembers long dinners he and his brother sat through with Hinkle growing up. Willoughby met Hinkle shortly after he arrived in Columbus from Atlantic City at the age of 12. After a few restless years living here and never quite feeling like it was home, he moved back to Atlantic City to live with his grandmother. At the height of the crack epidemic, he quickly found himself on the wrong side of the law. “My cousin was a charismatic cat connected to the underworld in Atlantic City,” he says. “I was caught up in a drug raid when I was 18 and ended up going to prison for a short period of time.” When he got out on parole, his mother wanted him to move back to Columbus. “It took everything I had to not immediately start hustling again,” he said. “I got a couple of legit jobs, but I got brought in by a friend for ‘help,’ which quickly became hustling and I ended up getting locked up again. When they put me in the kitchen to work, it felt like home, like a sanctuary. My soul felt settled there, in that kitchen space.” Although he didn’t have much know-how on technique when it came to cooking, he had a deep love and memory for being in the kitchen. “Watching my mom cooking, she was very fluent. I saw the transference of her energy to the food, coupled with my grandmother’s words about what spirit goes into the food. I saw the power in transforming raw stuff to palatable stuff. Food is a huge equalizer: You might not speak the same language, but you share an experience.” “After I got out of prison, I went from destroying the community to trying to do good. I felt guilty about how much destruction drugs had [caused]. I thought, ‘This karma is going to kill me. How do I repair what I’ve destroyed?’” Willoughby worked in the food industry for a number of years, but didn’t get into his own cooking business until later. It was his brother Malik who conceptualized Willowbeez and called Willoughby up one morning with the idea. Carnell was immediately hooked. This was a clear pathway to giving back to his community—healing through food.

The business started small with a handmade sign and a Crock-Pot of Curried Cabbage at the 400 Market in Franklinton. From there, he expanded the menu and started running catering gigs and pop-ups, most notably out of The Hills Market. In 2015, Carnell also helped found Maroon Arts Group (MAG) with his partner, Sherri Neale. Through funding by the Greater Arts Council of Columbus, they turned an empty lot into a community gathering space in the Bronzeville neighborhood. A set of shipping containers serves as a stage, a gallery and a space for Willowbeez Soulveg, surrounding a green space filled with garden beds. Willowbeez serves food during MAG events, running May to October each year. The concept was to transform their community through art and wholesome food. “I wanted to take time to learn the infrastructure and build consistency before investing in a more permanent location,” says Willoughby. After seven years of impermanence, he was ready to start his first brick-and-mortar restaurant. He found a location on Long Street that seemed perfect, then the pandemic struck and the owner backed out. But when Pistacia Vera closed its operation in the North Market, another door opened and Willoughby gracefully stepped in. Willowbeez Soulveg opened on April 27 with rousing support from his community. In his usual cheerful manner, he welcomed them with a plate of love, good for the soul, and his signature bear hug. “There are no moments wasted when I see community members, they are going to get their hug,” declares Willoughby with his 1,000-watt smile. Willowbeez Soulveg is open each Tuesday through Saturday from 9am to 6pm and Sunday from 10am to 5pm in the North Market. Learn more at willowbeezsoulveg.com. Rebecca Tien enjoys finding ways to weave together stories through images and words. An award-winning photographer, she is drawn to capture the small, beautiful, messy, universal moments that make people feel connected. She has written for various publications including The New York Times, Edible Columbus and 614 Magazine. Rebecca has worked in all aspects of food production— from farm to table, brunch cook to bartender—and is most happy puttering in her gardens and sharing beautiful food with people she loves. You can find her on Instagram at @rebeccatienphotography.

SUMMER 2021

Everything tastes better when it comes from the farm and is made with love. open for indoor dining, outdoor dining, carryout, and live music in the beer garden!

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Produce with Promise The HTH Farm Market benefits Central Ohioans with substance use disorders

By Linda Lee Baird Photography by Rachel Joy Barehl

ummer is the season of farmers markets. Almost any day of the week, all across town, you can find an abundance of fresh produce so delicious that you’ll be happy to live in the heartland where it’s grown. Though all of these markets both support farmers and stock our kitchens, the HTH Farm Market in Linworth goes even further, with proceeds benefiting a 24-month residential substance abuse program called Hope Thru Housing. While farmers markets have a reputation as summer events, HTH Farm Market actually got its start in the winter as a Christmas tree farm, when Hope Thru Housing founder and President Dennis Kerr happened to drive by a tree lot on Route 161. Interested in a business that could provide revenue for the nonprofit and job opportunities for Hope Thru Housing residents, Kerr pulled in to talk to the owner and found him ready and willing to turn over the lease of the business. Thrilled by the success of the first season, and undeterred when the tree lot was sold to make way for a new apartment complex, Kerr had the opportunity in 2012 to move to a permanent location across the street. He built the business from the ground up—literally. Through the job training program Hope Thru Housing offers its residents, members

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of the program constructed the market from foundation to rooftop. Today, HTH Farm Market operates nine months out of the year, beginning with early spring produce in April and culminating in the popular winter Christmas tree sale. Though the heavily trafficked location is helpful in bringing shoppers into HTH Farm Market, it’s the quality of product that keeps them coming back. “Produce is what really pulls people in,” Kerr said. In early spring, Kerr sells fresh tomatoes from Florida and Tennessee until the ones on local vines are ripe and ready. Once Ohio hits peak season, the market will be stocked with fruits, vegetables and greens grown in the state, as well as locally produced baked goods and pantry staples such as pasta and olive oil. To get the freshest possible items on shelves, Kerr partners with farmers in Ohio’s Amish Country. “Most of the produce comes in on horse and wagon,” he said, adding that HTH Farm Market shoppers will often find produce “picked that morning.” At the height of the season, Kerr will drive to

HERO

Dennis Kerr

Fredericktown multiple times a week to visit Amish auctions, where sellers offer everything from corn and squash to cantaloupe and strawberries to fresh cheeses and baked goods. During an early-season visit to the market in April, my eyes wandered across granola, whole chickens, handmade ravioli, local honey and Mason jars filled attractively with dried chicken soup ingredients—an upscale take on instant soups. I selected some tomatoes that looked better than anything I’d seen at the grocery store all winter. And though I tried, I couldn’t resist the Amish baked goods. I chose a cherry pull-apart from Fredericktown’s Simply Sweet Bakery, a treat that wove together the best parts of cinnamon rolls and cherry pie. My family and I happily ate it for breakfast the following morning. The Hope Thru Housing program supported by the market is modeled after a program in North Carolina that Kerr attended years ago to address his dependency on drugs and alcohol. Hope Thru Housing helps residents overcome addiction in a supportive environment. “The guys are in our housing while they’re in the program,” Kerr said. “We provide everything they need, and it’s at no cost to them.” While most residential treatment programs run for a period of months at most, Hope Thru Housing gives participants a stable place to live, a supportive community, and job training over the course of two full years. This allows them time to adopt new habits that stick when they complete the program. Serving eight to 10 men at a time since its founding in April 2011, Hope Thru Housing is preparing to start its first women’s program this spring. About 75% of the program’s funding needs are met through its vocational programs,

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including the market, HTH Lawncare, construction projects and the HTH online auction. To expand the market’s reach, Kerr added a mobile farm market to the HTH fleet in 2018. The mobile market makes regular stops at office buildings, as well as senior residential facilities like First Community Village, whose residents might not otherwise have easy access to fresh produce. After last season was limited by COVID-19, Kerr says the mobile market will return this summer. Whether you visit the farm market or mobile market, Kerr said you can expect quality. “It doesn’t get much fresher than the backyard garden.” HTH Farm Market is located at 2340 W. Dublin-Granville Road. Visit farmersmarketcolumbus.com to learn more about the market, and hthohio.org to learn about the Hope Thru Housing residential treatment program. Linda Lee Baird is a Columbus-based freelance writer and educator. Follow her adventures in food, writing and parenting on Instagram at ms_lindalee and at lindaleebaird.com.

small bites

A helping of news and updates from the Edible world

Freedom gets a home

t has been a big year for Freedom a la Cart, the acclaimed catering company that employs victims of sex trafficking. The nonprofit, which we profiled in the Winter 2019 issue of Edible Columbus, moved its entire operation from a North Side corporate park to a Downtown building complete with a café that opened to the public in April.

The two-story building at 123 E. Spring St. gives the organization a place to bring together its commercial kitchen operations with space for support services for victims. Being Downtown provides a central location for catering, puts the organization closer to many of the people it serves and offers foot traffic for the café. The café, in turn, provides the first retail experience for Freedom’s workforce development program. “It feels like we finally have a real home,” said CEO Paula Haines. “It’s such a beautiful, bright space. We’re excited to have people come and see it.” The pandemic delayed remodeling of the building last year at the same time that office closings and state restrictions on gatherings knocked out much of the catering business. In response, the orga-

nization launched Freedom at Home, a subscription service that lets customers have a premade meal delivered to them once a week. That service has been a success and will continue, Haines said. The new café serves breakfast and lunch on weekdays 7am to 3pm and Saturdays 8am to 3pm. The menu, overseen by Executive Chef Laurie Sargent, features quiche, sandwiches, salads and bowls, as well as a variety of baked goods made on site, from croissants to cookies.

Walking tours return

Fine dining challenged

olumbus Food Adventures has started to offer its walking tours again, more than a year after suspending them due to the pandemic. The weekend tours had been a major part of the company, which owners Bethia Woolf and her husband, Andy Dehus, built over 10 years.

he area’s fine-dining restaurants have been slow to rebound from the pandemic threat and state restrictions, since many were not set up to offer carryout service. Some prominent restaurants have only recently begun to welcome back customers, while others remain shuttered.

Tours began in May for German Village, Grandview Avenue and Old Worthington and include stops at multiple restaurants. There also are tours available for Franklinton and the Brewery District, which require participants to be at least 21 because they include brewery stops as well as restaurants. Reservations are required. Tours cost $58 to $62 a person and can be booked at columbusfoodadventures. com. The company also offers a self-driving tour of taco trucks on Saturdays. Its van-driven tours, which cover larger areas, remain suspended at this time. The business is continuing to offer its innovative Trust Fall dinners, which Edible Columbus wrote about in the Fall 2020 issue. The program delivers a meal for two from an immigrant restaurant to your door. The “trust” part is that you don’t know in advance which restaurant it will be.

The Guild House, Martini and some other Cameron Mitchell restaurants opened last June after a three-month closing. Veritas began limited weekend seatings in August, and The Refectory reopened its dining room in September. Comune, whose plant-based menu had drawn high praise, recently announced it would open in late May for dinner only. Service Bar, another local favorite, has not reopened to diners but does offer carryout. Basi Italia, always listed among the city’s best restaurants, has spent the pandemic time remodeling the small restaurant and planning a retail wine operation. A Facebook post said, “We are working hard to reopen the patio for limited seating soon.” The restaurant offers carryout Wednesday through Saturday. Latitude 41, the highly regarded restaurant in the Renaissance Columbus hotel Downtown, still is listed on the hotel’s website as “temporarily closed.” The biggest loss for fine dining in Columbus is the permanent closing of M at Miranova, which was announced in May. Opened in 2002, the premier Cameron Mitchell restaurant was one of only two AAA 4-Diamond restaurants in town (The Refectory is the other). It had been closed since March 2020. |

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telling the story of how gotham eats • no. 30 july�august ��

Goat Milk Soft SErvE ConSCiEntiouS CatErinG

US $5.00

CatChinG thE BluES

edible

loCavorE BEEr Member of Edible Communities

SEEdinG ChanGE at rikErS iSland

ANDERSON VALLEY • LOW PROOF SPIRITS • BLACK VINES MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

N O. 45

FLINTER 2019

MEMPHIS FOODFM anD COMMUNITIN TE MIDOUT

FAMILIAR FACES KITCHEN QUARTERBACKS CLASSIC COCKTAILS UNSOLICITED ADVICE

Explore a world of local food through the magazines and websites of Edible Communities. We’ll introduce you to the chefs, farmers, brewers, home cooks and others who inspire and sustain local flavors across the US and Canada.

Member of Edible Communities

ediblecommunities.com

E AT. D R I N K . S H O P. L O C A L .

NO.3 | SPRING 2021 | MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Stay up to the minute on all things edible at: ediblecommunities.com

SUMMER 2021

Issue 45

Spring 2020 MARIN & WINE COUNTRY

Celebrating the harvest of Marin, Napa and Sonoma counties, season by season

m a n h at ta n

Edible Columbus Summer 2021

Articles inside

RECIPES

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

HERO

EDITOR’S NOTE

ARTISAN