Edible East End Low Summer 2013 by Edible East End

edible east end

US $5.00 edibleeastend.com

Celebrating the Harvest of the Hamptons and North Fork

No. 40 low sUMMER ��

Garden-to-Table • Montauk Roundup North Fork Mushrooms • Signature Poultry Occasional Vegetarian • The Hampton Maid • 50 LBS. of Mackerel Member of Edible Communities

SEA GRILLE COME SAVOR OUR NEW SUMMER MENU FEATURING HEALTHY AND DELICIOUS SPE® CERTIFIED DISHES!

SPE® Certified is a unique certification program that defines a new way to eat by enhancing the nutritional quality of meals, without compromising taste. SPE derives from the Latin phrase Sanitas Per Escam, or “Health Through Food.” At Gurney’s food is our passion, and we are proud to present our guests with a selection of SPE certified dishes. www.SPEcertified.com

same day reservations

contents 9 NOTABLE EDIBLES

Natural Earth Farm Get Thee to Market Fresh Garden-to-Table New Eats and Drinks in Montauk Mushrooms 25 cULT OF TASTE

the hampton maid Three generations serve the East End’s most famous breakfast. 57 IN THE KITCHEN WITH

MILLIE AND THE REV. CHUCK CAREY Sunday dinner involves the community and local goods. 65 ON GOOD LAND

Fully Seasoned

Sparkling Apples

A farm intern learns to love the interaction between soil and people.

The state’s cider resurgence touches down on the East End. 29 FARMGIRL ANGST

68 HEIRLOOMS

Signature Poultry

Wardrobe Issues 31 ON THE VINE

GRAPE GROWER

Waterfowl used to rule the East End, and their reputation remains. 77 institutions

What to Get at the Pork Store

A part-time grape grower makes a life of it. 34

Pizza, fresh focaccia sandwiches and frozen raviolis beckon hordes to Hampton Bays.

worth the trip

Market Bistro Farm-to-table’s inroads in Nassau County.

What do you do with 45,000 garlic scapes?

You’ve caught a mess of highly perishable fish. Now what? 91 DEPARTMENT OF MOVEMENTS

The Occasional Vegetarian

38 What’s in Season

June and July 42 Edible Activity

A former ad man in Bridgehampton crafts the soft sell for eating less meat. 112 aftertaste

Summer Sipper

berries in every shade 44 WINEMAKER’S WONDERINGS

Wölffer Rosé comes of age. cover

Porgy, Bridgehampton. By Doug Young

Snapshots of the creative elements of making wine. 48 BEHIND THE BOTTLE

MCCALL RANCH 2010 RESERVE PINOT NOIR The latest reserve vintage from the vineyard founded around this grape. 4 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

gone fishing

holy Mackerel

36 OBSESSIONS

And why Homeland Security cares.

back of the house

this page

Westhampton Historical Society, Westhampton. By Randee Daddona

ALL WEEK LONG, ENJOY

EAT DRINK LOCAL 2013 WILL RUN FROM JUNE 22–29, TO HELP KICK OFF THE GROWING SEASON. Edible Manhattan, Brooklyn and East End collaborate on a week that brings together partners from the entire food chain.

•

Prix-fixe menus at 100s of partner restaurants featuring our seasonal, crowd-sourced ingredients of the week.

•

Discounts at partner wineries, breweries, bakers, cheesemongers and other business partners.

•

And tasting events at Brooklyn Brewery, Greenmarkets, Whole Foods Market, and many other destinations throughout the region.

FEATURING: ALMOND BRIDGEHAMPTON BAY BURGER NICK & TONI’S (EAST HAMPTON) SQUIRETOWN RESTAURANT & BAR CHARITABLE PARTNERS

For more information and tickets, visit

ediblemanhattan.com

grist for the mill Now is the time of year that is most ripe with potential. With the fear of frost behind us, we plant pretty much anything we desire—from melons to sweet corn to hot peppers. The Rev. Charles Cary and his wife, Millie, already devout locavores who keep yardbirds and a compost heap at the Westhampton Presbyterian Church, are putting in a veggie patch. At Bridge Gardens in Bridgehampton, the manager has sown a micro-field of wheat where there was once a lavender “room,” and will model eco-healthy living all summer long. Swollen with gastronomic delights, this issue unfolds with a challenge to squeeze it in while we can. To eat our way through Montauk’s smorgasbord of seasonal, seafood-forward seaside joints. And to find a favorite vendor (Open-Minded Organics mushrooms in Sag Harbor, Port Jefferson Brewing beer by the growler in Springs) at each of the East End’s dozen farmers markets, from Flanders to Shelter Island. Consider our handy farmers market map as both inspiration and guide. Everywhere we turn, businesses sprout to entice the summer folks and gain a year-round foothold with locals. A couple in Cutchogue opens Long Island’s second mushroom growing opera-

Swollen with gastronomic delights, this issue unfolds with a challenge to eat our way through Montauk’s smorgasbord, find a favorite farmer market vendor, to bring in a vintage of healthy grapes.

tion. Slow Food chef Todd Jacobs inherits—and reinvents—the gorgeous garden and kitchen that used to be Southfork Kitchen. Even when the weather is fair, realizing potential requires hard work. A field of pinot noir vines at McCall Vineyards becomes a winning vintage only through constant vigilance against all the troubles (birds, deer, mold) that will threaten its thin-skinned clusters by summer’s end. Fifty pounds of mackerel, caught by author

and fisherman Paul Greenberg, becomes many meals only through “sushi-ing, brining, brathering, pickling and gravlaxing.” And it took the ad-man genius of Bridgehampton resident Sid Lerner to encourage Americans to skip meat one day a week—the Meatless Mondays campaign has gone viral and has been credited with helping reduce American meat eating by 5 percent in the last decade. Sometimes, opportunity even brings self-doubt. A few years back, Scotto’s Pork Store, the oldschool institution in Hampton Bays, wondered about building a portable pizza oven and launching the San Gennaro Feast of the Hamptons; both proved huge successes. And when farmgirl Marilee Foster abandons her billowy A-line sundresses for “manly clothes with bulging, tool filled pockets,” she asks, “Does this wrench make my ass look big?” Who cares when that adjustable wrench makes you a superwoman and you can repair tractors, adjust irrigation pumps and bring in the crop all by yourself.

edible edible e edibl

Brian Halweil Editor

long island Telling the Story of How Long Island Eats

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No. 1 Spring 2013

long Telling

the Story

of How

Long Island

the Story

of How

islan

Long Island

land

Eats

•

No. 1 Spring

2013

Eats

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No. 1 Spring

2013

P.S.—Speaking of potential, we are proud to announce the launch of our sister publication, Edible Long Island, to celebrate the craft breweries, farm-to-school programs and innova-

EDITOR Brian Halweil PUBLISHER Stephen Munshin DEPUTY EDITOR Eileen M. Duffy DESIGNER

Bambi Edlund PHOTO EDITOR

Lindsay Morris COPY EDITOR

Carrington Morris CONTRIBUTORS Randee Daddona Marilee Foster Christopher Gangemi Gwendolen Groocock Niko Krommydas Courtney MacGinley Geraldine Pluenneke Kelly Ann Smith James Christopher Tracy Amy Zavatto CONTACT US PO Box 779 Sag Harbor, NY 11963 631.537.4637, info@edibleeastend.com ADVERTISING Julie Couser, Advertising Sales Director Mary Morgan Jack Oxee Russ Schaehrer David Stires ads@edibleeastend.com, 631.537.4637 LETTERS To write to the editor, use the address above or, for the quickest response, e-mail us: info@edibleeastend.com. SUBSCRIPTIONS Edible East End is published five times a year. Subscription rate is $25 annually, and available at edibleeastend.com/subscribe. For customer service, contact 877.318.3269 or ediblecs@emailpsa.com.

tive farmers, fishermen and artisanal entrepreneurs emerging from the kitchens and backyards of the suburban communi-

farm l sea l table Member of Edible Communities

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Communities

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ties along the L.I.E. and L.I.R.R. (Who knew?) Look for the first issue in July, and get a preview at ediblelongisland.com.

6 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

30%

PURE BALANCE ............................................ MEET OUR VIN EYARD I N S PEC TOR S. At Bonterra, we grow wine organically and sustainably, treating the land with deep respect. We encourage healthy biodiversity in our vineyards, and we know that butterflies are indicators of a thriving ecosystem, so when we see them fluttering among our grapes, we know that everything is in perfect balance. It’s just one of the many ways that nature helps us create pure, flavorful wine. WWW.BONTERRA.COM

AMAGANSETT FARMERS MARKET Celebrating local produce, freshly baked bread and prepared foods for more than 50 years.

NOTABLE EDIBLES By Eileen M . Du ff y

Photograph: Matthew Furman

natural earth farm There are lots of hidden things along River Road in Riverhead and Calver-

possible, the kind of farming he wanted to do. In addition the farm is less

ton. Driving, all one sees are homes, but behind the shrubbed roadside are an

than three miles from his home in Manorville. A rental deal was struck.

animal shelter, the Peconic River Herb Farm, a small winery actually called

Anthony’s idea did not come out of the blue. Family members have

the Hidden Vineyard and then there’s Natural Earth Farms where Anthony

been in the dairy and beef cow business, and he has worked at farms in

Panarello and his wife, Marie, planted their first zucchini in 2008.

the Hudson Valley and on Long Island. He also had a job that gives him

The couple found the place on a Sunday drive. The land’s owner was

the summer off: a carpenter at the Javits Center. The major trade shows

selling some of the antique furniture he collects and stores in the barn on

(where he met his wife) are in the winter. So he bought a manual on or-

site. The three got talking, and the discussion turned to the 10 unused

ganic farming and got to work.

acres behind the barn. Ringed by trees (which house the deer Anthony

So far the Panarellos have been lucky to find retail outlets that are will-

would later battle) and with an unusual variety of soils, the land had not

ing to buy their produce wholesale. Whole Foods loves his Mountain Fresh

been farmed for at least eight years.

slicing tomatoes that take up rows of the farm, which have been stagger

What was an overgrown field with sandy spots looked to Anthony like

planted for an extended supply of ready-to-pick fruit. He’s been successful at

opportunity. The soil had lain fallow for so long that organic farming was

farmers markets in Riverhead on Saturdays and in Rocky Point on Sundays. edibleeastend.com 9

A CSA program is growing by word of mouth. This leads into the Panarellos plan to sell about 80 percent of their produce retail instead of wholesale, as the equation stands now. The first step toward that was taken early in August when he was able to rent an empty farm stand on Route 111 in Manorville. There Anthony and Marie sell the produce while little Anthony, two, naps behind the counter. The farm stand hopefully will enable him to ease off the farmers markets because he says it takes too much time away from the farm. While Anthony technically farms organically, he cannot use that label because he has not been certified by the New York chapter of the Northeast Organic Farming Association, which is accredited by the USDA. Anthony was saying his produce was organic but got a call from the USDA telling him to stop. Farmers who make under $5,000 per year can say their food is organic without certification, but above that, the full process is needed. It’s a step he’s considering, but right now he cannot afford the fees, which would add to the costs already inherent in the methods he uses to organically grow his melons, eggplants and peppers. “People price shop,” he says, sitting at the farm stand as the traffic roars past, mostly people on their way back to New York City from the Hamptons. “And certification would cost me a couple of thousand a year. Maybe next year.” NOFA-NY fees are on a sliding scale, based on gross sales. There are also incidental fees for inspections. In lieu of organic certification, Anthony sought out an organization that sponsors the label “Certified Naturally Grown,” which follows the same guidelines as NOFA but is governed by peers, other farmers, not the USDA.

a bite of each one.” This year he built his own

are. It’s the dream of having a tractor like the

A yearly contribution of $150 to $200 is sug-

electric fence and hasn’t had a problem for the

one at another organic farm that Anthony says

gested. However, says Anthony, not many con-

first time. His second year farming he lost 1.5

came from Europe and must have cost $50,000.

sumers understood what it means to be certi-

acres of tomatoes to blight.

Right now he’s working with equipment he se-

fied naturally grown.

“Every year it’s something else,” he says.

cured with a loan.

Other obstacles are the natural predators

But it’s also the chef whose jaw dropped

Thinking back on our conversation, An-

like woodchucks and deer. Deer can ruin an

when Anthony brought his zucchini to a restau-

thony realizes he may have been talking too

entire row of melons in an afternoon, says An-

rant’s back door. It’s the shoppers who return to

much about what’s discouraging about farm-

thony. “They just go down the row and take

the farm stand saying how good the tomatoes

ing. “That’s not the way it is,” he says. “I love it.”

10 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Elevate your Bloody Mary.

Handcrafted. Different. Distilled from Virgin New Potatoes.

FA CE BOOK.COM/KARLSSONSVODKA

edibleeastend.com 11

Savor slowly.

NOTABLE EDIBLES Greenport Farmers Market

get thee to market

First Street btwn Broad and North Saturdays 9:00 a.m.–1:00 p.m. May 25–October 12

With nearly a dozen active farmers markets operating on the East End, it’s incredible to imagine that the Sag Harbor market—the first—was launched in just 2005. Spanning both forks, these markets complement our abundant farm-stand offerings, bringing together farmers, food makers, winemakers and even brewers to peddle their wares in one place. The Springs market offers a rotating selection of Long Island breweries. The Sag Harbor market offers multiple seafood mongers. Each has grown into a community-gathering space that testifies to the joys of open-air food buying. So get your bag, start planning dinner, and consider hitting as many of these as you can this summer. Most East End farmers markets run from late May through September or October. The Sag Harbor market has operated year-round for the last two years. We’ve come a long way, indeed.

Riverhead Farmers Market Municipal Parking Lot Along the Peconic River Saturdays 9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m. July 11-October 24

Sag Harbor Farmers Market Bay and Burke Streets Across from Topovana Yoga Saturdays 9:00 a.m.–1:00 p.m. May 18–October 26

Hayground School Farmers Market 151 Mitchell Lane Bridgehampton Fridays 3:00–6:30 p.m. May 24–August 30

Flanders Farm Fresh Food Market

Westhampton Beach Farmers Market

12 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Municipal Parking Lot next to Westhampton Historical Society Saturdays 9:00 a.m.–1:00 p.m. May 11–October 26

Illustration: Bambi Edlund

David W. Crohan Community Center 655 Flanders Road Saturdays 10:00 a.m.–2:00 p.m. June 29–October 12

Springs Farmers Market Shelter Island Farmers Market Shelter Island Historical Society, 16 South Ferry Road Saturdays 9:00 a.m.–12:30 p.m. June 15–September 21

Ashawagh Hall 960 Springs Fireplace Road The Springs, East Hampton Saturdays 9:00 a.m.–1:00 p.m. May 25–Halloween

Montauk Farmers Market Village Green, Center of Town Thursdays 9:00 a.m.–1 p.m. June 13–October 17

Route 27 Farmers Market

Talk to us: Did we miss any?

East Hampton American Legion Post 419 15 Montauk Highway at Abraham’s Path Amagansett Wednesdays 2:00–6:00 p.m. June 5–October 30

To the Editor, Edible East End, PO Box 779, Sag Harbor, NY 11963 E-mail us: info@edibleeastend.com Leave comments:

Southampton Farmers Market 25 Jobs Lane West side grounds of Parrish Art Museum Sundays 9:00 a.m.–2:00 p.m. May 26–October 8, plus September 28 for “September Fest”

East Hampton Farmers Market 136 North Main Street Nick and Toni’s parking lot Fridays 9:00 a.m.–1:00 p.m. May 24–September

Facebook.com/EdibleEastEnd

@EdibleEastEnd

Most markets accept Cash, WIC, Senior Farmers Market Nutrition Program Checks and EBT (food stamps).

edibleeastend.com 13

NOTABLE EDIBLES

fresh It’s hard not to compare Todd Jacobs’s new restaurant to what came before

ons, like cheese, avocado, fruit and raw nuts, then topping it with a choice of

it. What was once a temple sustainable seafood with hundreds of rules is

creamy garlic, tahini, balsamic or Dijon vinaigrette. In addition, all entrées

now a family-friendly eatery that Jacobs plans to keep open for lunch and

are available in small, medium or large, essentially giving diners the choice

dinner seven days a week year round. The menu is now constructed to ap-

of a tapas-size dish, an entrée-size dish or eating family style. Those choices

peal to the highest number of diners, and Jacobs wants people to stop by

include duck, fresh fish, Raleigh’s Poultry Farm organic chicken, short ribs

for a smoothie—and pick up a picnic lunch—on their way to the beach.

and hanger steak. Vegans and vegetarians are easily accommodated; Jacobs

“I almost got tired of eating my own food,” says Jacobs (shown

has a page-length list of sides that are available in small and large portions

above), who has spent the past four years as the chef and catering boss at

and include roast garlic whipped potatoes, oven roasted roots, hand-cut fries

the Allegria Hotel in Long Beach. “I like eating fresh food, but it’s hard

with organic ketchup, naked organic jewel yams steamed and pureed with

to find, especially out here, without getting dressed up and spending a lot

fresh ginger, and Thai red curried spring vegetables. This is a homecoming of sorts for Jacobs, who started his career on

Most of the idea for the menu, he says, came from regular customers

the East End in 1988 working behind the line at the American Hotel in

who liked to come in for dinner and ask him to make a meal out of whatever

Sag Harbor. What was supposed to be one summer away from the city

was good and in season. “It was a common thread,” he says, so now diners

turned into a life change that was cemented when he opened his first

have a wealth of choices. There are their composed salads, but there’s also

restaurant, Tierra Mar, in Westhampton in 1994.

a chopped salad bar of sorts. Customers choose their own lettuce among

In the meantime, he started a family, which now numbers a wife and

hearts of romaine, mesclun, spinach and arugula. Next they select among

six children of ages ranging from one to 22 years old. (Yes, there are jobs for

fresh vegetables, carrots, broccoli, zucchini, beets and so forth, and then add-

them at the restaurant.) “My nine-year-old wants to be the hostess,” he says.

14 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Photograph: Doug Young

of money. I want it to be casual and comfortable, simple and straight.”

Schmidt’s Ahoy. Now on Shelter Island.

Shelter Island just got lucky. Our new Schmidt’s Market on Shelter Island is a ferry ride away. Shelter Island will have the same Quality, Service and Value that are famous in the Hamptons. Our produce, meat and organic sections and delicious deli are worth the trip from anywhere. Boat hors d’oeuvre platters and dinners delivered to your yacht. You can never have too many Schmidt’s. Southampton: Produce Market: 120 North Sea Road 283.5777 Seafood Market: 1282 North Sea Road 283.1212 Shelter Island: 43 North Ferry Road Tel: 749-0555 Fax: 749-0455

AS FRESH AND LOCAL AS IT GETS Join us for a day of exploration and discovery at our Artisansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Market. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re supporting the local food community by showcasing growers and specialty food producers in our stores.

Visit our Williams-Sonoma featured stores for details. Bridgehampton Commons Huntington Station

NOTABLE EDIBLES

Garden-to-Table

Photograph: Lindsay Morris

Bridge Gardens, a magical 5-acre oasis in the heart of Bridgehampton, is

gars,” “making and enjoying pesto,” and “fun with natural dyes for kids.”

best known for its specimen trees, double hedgerows with view portals,

“Vegetable gardens can be very beautiful and also wonderful places

pond with black carp, and collection of 800 antique rose bushes. But in

for entertaining,” says Bogusch, not to mention that they do double-du-

keeping with the horticultural zeitgeist—SUNY Farmingdale’s depart-

ty, supplying the ingredients for the meal. Or consider that cover crops,

ment of ornamental horticulture is shifting resources towards edible land-

like the wheat Bogusch recently sowed or the sorghum that surrounded

scaping—the Peconic Land Trust-owned property now features vegetables

the roses last year, keep down weeds, buy a busy gardener time before

under coldframes, a bed of more than 30 chili pepper varieties and a small

they know what to plant, and provide organic matter and nutrients

field of wheat that was once a geometric lavender patch.

equivalent to many bags of fertilizer.

That lavender-to-grain conversion is just the latest example of Bridge

Citing historical precedent (the 4,000 market gardens in 19th century

Garden’s shift from ornamentals to edibles, says garden manager Rick

Paris helped feed the city and surrounding areas) and modern problems

Bogusch. “It’s part of a new vision and new mission for Bridge Gardens

(“Food that doesn’t have to travel thousands of miles has a much smaller

to show people how they can practice sustainability in their daily lives.”

carbon footprint.”), Bogusch is commited to “using as much Bridgehamp-

In addition to “garden to table” programs that show how to grow, pre-

ton loam for food production” as he can. He grows cilantro for the Sag Har-

serve and enjoy food raised at home, Bridge Gardens is offering demon-

bor Food Pantry, which also gets his extra snow peas, berries from his 100

strations and lectures on sustainable lawn care, home energy conserva-

feet of raspberry hedge and any extra comestibles. “I want to max it out.”

tion and thrifty, time-saving green living practices.

—Brian Halweil

A well-attended May workshop focused on “Planting for a Summer Bounty/Vegetables.” A July 11 talk will focus on vegetable gardening

Bridge Gardens, 36 Mitchell Lane, Bridgehampton.

with children, while a July 13 lecture will be on “Successional Planting

For tour information, lecture schedule and to become a member, visit

for Late Harvest,” with August and September courses on “herbed vine-

www.peconiclandtrust.org/bridge_ gardens edibleeastend.com 17

Creative Landscapes • Fine Stonework

E B R AT I N

f ARS o

CAPES

NCTIVE

NOTABLE EDIBLES

Photographs: Lindsay Morris

New Eats and Drinks in Montauk A trip to Montauk can feel like a visit to another country. Its gritty-quaint

so keep an eye out for smoked fish pâté and tomato compote among the

Main Street and unique fisher-surfer-beachcomber attitude attracts an

nightly specials.

avalanche of tourists and has inspired one of the most creative food and

Sweet’tauk Lemonade and Red Hook Lobster Pound are a match

drink scenes around. Along with must-dine veterans—Harvest, Dave’s

made in Hamptons Heaven. Montauk’s lemonade queen Deborah

Grill—and now-favorite newcomers—South Edison, Zum Schneider—

Aiza teamed up with Brooklyn’s lobster queen Susan Povich and her

are a new crop contending for the willing mouths.

husband, Ralph Gorham, whose intrepid Brooklyn-based food trucks

The Blessing of the Fleet in 2012 was Swallow East’s first day open

beacon Twitter-followers across the five boroughs and even Washing-

after taking over Lenny’s on the fishing docks in Montauk. Small

ton, D.C. This takeout joint equipped with creaky door (woodworker

American plates—like orzo mac and cheese with bacon and peas, whole

Gorham supplied the barnwood) will dish mac and cheese (served

fried little neck clams with shaved cabbage and pickled jalapeño tartar

with four cheeses, organic noodles and lobster meat) as well as seafood

sauce—was chef and co-owner James Tchinnis’s idea, as was putting the

rolls (six ways) and downeast bisque. Wash it down with Sweet’tauk

gorgeous kitchen on display, aided by local architect Maziar Behrooz.

Lemonade’s seasonal flavors, like pink rhubarb in spring, blueberry

“You can see it’s clean, it’s fresh, and people with passion are cooking,”

lavender in summer and persimmon cinnamon in fall. Finish with Joe

says Tchinnis. Backing Tchinnis up in the kitchen is local Matt Feyh,

and Liza’s Ice Cream, handmade with Hudson Valley Fresh farmers’

from Nick & Toni’s and Townline BBQ. Feyh is jonesing for a smoker,

cooperative milk and cream, in their first outpost beyond Sag Harbor. edibleeastend.com 19

Among the other enticing Gotham imports is La Brisa, which will bring the same Sonoranstyle tacos that built up a following at Tacombi at Fonda Nolita, with favorites like the corn esquites, guacamole con totopos, crispy fish tacos, and chilaquiles verdes for breakfast. Look for the crowds oogling the machine that turns out toothsome, paper-thin corn tortillas. After working in local restaurants like the Point and Harvest, Matthew and Nicole Meehan decided Montauk needed “something quick” and opened Gringo’s Burrito Grill. “Everything, including the meat, salsas and fixings are made inhouse,” Matthew says. “Have it your way. That’s our thing.” Just be warned. The hot sauce is not for the faint of heart. After three summers of pub grub, the Cross Eyed Clam has a new chef. Chris Hunter, who was conceived at the Montauk Lighthouse when his father was the lighthouse keeper, is back home after working with esteemed chefs like Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud to elevate the oddly named Cross Eyed Clam’s menu with local shellfish and produce. The Lessing family, in the food service business since 1890, and known for up-island favorites Mirabelle, Lessing’s and Finnegan’s, has acquired the concession and catering rights at Montauk Downs. Kathleen Bennett, an East Hampton Grill alum, will run the kitchen, serving traditional lunch items like fish and chips, Sunday brunch and an expanded offering of seasonal veggies. There’s also a new dance floor in the ballroom, overlooking Lake Montauk and the Robert Trent Jones–designed golf course, just in time for wedding season. For those looking for a place to eat and sleep, hoteliers King & Grove are again working with city-based food trendsetters the Fat Radish to give Ruschmeyer’s menu an update, redoubling the emphasis on “Montauk’s freshest seafood and local produce,” paired with the family-friendly beachside playground and communal breakfast nook. In the heart of the village, the Montauk Beach House will offer poolside pouring of Channing Daughters rosé and Stumptown coffee, making it the perfect jump-off point to explore every eatery in town. 20 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

—Kelly Ann Smith

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Wellness Foundation Empowering People

NOTABLE EDIBLES

Here’s something you might not know. It’s possible to get something called “mushroom cough” and get sick. Like, six months worth of sick. So if you think you’re too cool to wear a mask when visiting the Long Island Mushroom farm in Cutchogue, John Quigley, one of the owners, will set you straight. He already spent months coughing out the spores from the hundreds of pounds of shitake mushrooms he and his partner, Jane Maguire, are producing every day. “I thought I had bronchitis and then pneumonia,” he says. “Nope, I was just too cool.” Fair warning, because you might want to spend some time at their mushroom farm, a 6,500-square-foot building on Cox Lane. Raw wooden shelves stretch to the back of the room and to

logs are made and inoculated with spores, to buy them and bring them home in a refrigerated truck. “This way I have the most control over it,” he says. Then by the end of the week, the couple is filling orders and delivering the mushrooms themselves. “I know if Garden of Eve calls at 10 a.m.,” says Maguire. “They’re going to have them by 11.” The freshness carries over the whole operation. No pesticides or fertilizers are used. The cleaness of the logs means no dirt clinging to the mushrooms and the logs are 100-percent recyclable. Quigley says they’re thinking of burning them to fuel their dehydrator. This is a far cry from what the couple were doing just a year ago. Quiqley was working in finance and construction in Pennsylvania and Maguire, a 17-year Mattituck resident, was working in retail.

the ceiling, stacked with logs made from sawdust and wood pulp. And out

For now Quigley and Maguire are selling the mushrooms in half pound

of each log mushrooms are “pinning” that first poke into the world. Soon

boxes that can be found at farmstands for about $10. The restaurants buy in

there are creamy tan clusters, which the couple breaks off and sells either

bulk. Soon they will have two products, a tapenade and a spread, to add to

fresh or dehydrated mostly to farmstands and restaurants. Customers Ma-

the repertoire. As well as miitake mushrooms and oyster mushrooms, which

guire found by knocking on kitchen doors and dropping off samples.

were just putting out their first “pulse” in the middle of May. Quigley and

The response has been good, says Quigley, because after much trial and error, he found that to produce the best mushrooms, he must usher

Maguire join Bridgehampton-based Open Minded Organics as the second mushroom farm on the East End.

them through their lifecycle himself. He no longer relies on others to de-

Maguire admits she doesn’t really like mushrooms, eating them, but

liver the logs. Each week he travels to McKenna Square, Penn., where the

she does love growing them. “I talk to them,” she says. “I think it helps.”

22 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Photograph: Randee Daddona

spores spread

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NOTABLE EDIBLES

cULT OF TASTE

Sparkling Apples The state’s cider resurgence touches down on the East End. By Eileen M . Duff y

n mid-March New York Senator Charles Schumer

York thirst for these crisp, fruit-tinged beverages, and a

gave a sparkling bump to the state’s resurging cider

bumper crop of new producers upstate and down. Here

industry when he announced a proposal that would

on the East End, there are two new cider producers, one

make selling hard cider made from New York apples

a farm and another a winery.

Photograph: Randee Daddona

much easier and less expensive for the producer. The CIDER (Cider, Investment & Development through

Woodside Orchards

Excise Tax Reduction) Act aims to modernize the defi-

Bob Gammon looks comfortable in his Carhartt pants

nition for hard apple and pear cider to increase their al-

and vest. His hands are rugged like a farmer’s, but his face

lowed alcohol by volume from 7 percent to 8.5 percent,

still expresses disbelief. “If you had told me I’d be peddling

so the ciders can be labeled and taxed like hard cider,

apples 15 years ago,” he says, “I’d never have believed you.”

rather than wine. He would also like to change the ef-

But knee-deep in apples he is. He and his brother,

fects of the “champagne” tax, which raises tariffs on alco-

Scott, have taken over what for his father was a retire-

holic beverages with a certain level of carbonation. The

ment activity, Woodside Orchards, an apple farm with

apple-growing population of Schumer’s constituency

more than 6,000 dwarf apple trees of 29 varieties. And

produces the second most abundant supply of apples in

until two years ago, their living was made off U-pick

the country. Currently hard cider is the only alcoholic

and apple cider sold by the gallon for $7.

beverage that can be sold in grocery stores and liquor

It was nice, being a short season and all, but kids go

stores. The market’s also being buoyed by a growing New

to college and the brothers started thinking about how edibleeastend.com 25

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True Believer Cider

enue. In a region where wineries line the road

Peconic Bay Winery may be getting out of

and there seems to be a new brewery every few

the wine game, but in the cider game, the

months, hard cider was an obvious evolution.

stakes are getting interesting. The winery

It took two years to get the necessary licens-

introduced True Believer Cider, under the

es, and in 2012, Woodside offered its first batch

name Standard Cider Company, in 2010,

for sale in their retail cider and donut stand on

made with apples from Red Jacket Farms

the Main Road in Aquebogue. The cider was

in the Finger Lakes. The apples are crushed,

for sale in growlers, the four-pint jugs used by

or “milled” as they say in cider talk, upstate

the breweries, for $16; $12 for a refill. They sold

and then shipped to Cutchogue for fermen-

out. Which meant winter 2012–2013 was a

tation. The juice takes another trip to Wash-

time for rethinking, renovating, perfecting and

ingtonville’s Brotherhood winery where it is

hoping that the consumers’ thirst for cider had

carbonated and bottled in brown 750s with

yet to be slaked.

a champagne closure. (They had to travel that

The stand is slated to open in mid-May and

far to find a bottling line to fit their bottles.)

will sell a dry and a sweet cider; the brothers have

Two kinds are produced, the straight True

plans to ship the cider in kegs to bars and restau-

Believer and True Companion, made with

rants. In the meantime, they’re still experiment-

fresh ginger. The bottles go for $12.99 and

ing with different yeasts, consulting with local

average about 7 percent alcohol.

winemakers and brewers and finding out which

Jim Silver, the mind behind the Stan-

combo of apples, fermentation and aging suits

dard Cider Company, says he has secured

them best.

distribution through Clare Rose, the beer-

“In any business, you have to be able to

distribution behemoth, on Long Island and

adapt,” says Gammon. The brothers are doing

is looking for placements in big-name gro-

it apple by apple.

cery chains. Until then, the cider is always on the shelf at Empire State Cellars in Riv-

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Photograph: Randee Daddona

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FARMGIRL ANGST

Wardrobe Issues

Photographs: Lindsay Morris

By Marilee Foster

One of the first things I had to sacrifice to become a farmer was a ward-

fact I felt grateful. Being prepared makes you grateful; being broken-down

robe. Farming is not about how you look, it’s about how well prepared

makes you frustrated. The pound of steel I carry is worth it.

you are for adversity. Which means you’re dressed for it. When I started

A dress might be great for tomato picking but try to put weight in her

farming I fancied dresses, billowy baskets that made the summer heat

pockets, if the dress even has pockets, and the thing will become a dishev-

seem light and the hauling seem easy. The A-line sundress, for all its girl-

eled mess, hanging sideways. The wrench will clang you around the knees.

ishness was vindicated by its versatility and put to good, hard use. I was

Trust me, I have tried it. So now I wear these manly clothes with bulg-

not long in turning a closet full of carefully collected clothing into work

ing, tool-filled pockets. They are mostly men’s clothes because women’s

clothes. It only takes one day to ruin an outfit I had had dry-cleaned for

clothes still aren’t and never will be manufactured to my demographic.

years. The fabric and shape succumb to the stain of the vegetable harvest.

These tools I carry, I don’t need them every day, but they are amulets. For

There is no undoing that.

if the pliers are forgotten on the bedside table, they will be needed in the

The longer I have farmed, the more I have tried to farm. I’ve gone

field. I put them in my pockets as dutifully as I tie my shoes. I stopped ask-

from doing nearly everything by hand to doing nearly everything with a

ing, “Does this wrench make my ass look big?” because I accept the fact

tractor and implement. These machines can operate perfectly, but often

that the wrench does make me bigger. I am stronger when I have it, my

something needs to be adjusted, loosened or tightened, dropped or raised,

sheer, weak fingers are then of steel. I have leverage and torque of a man

and having an adjustable wrench in your hip pocket is the difference be-

twice my size. And of course, while it is ill advised, I can use the omnipo-

tween being broke-down or in service. Just yesterday the Planet Junior was

tent wrench as a hammer if I am really in a bind. •

on its way to falling apart, but I saw the misalignment before disaster fell and pulled my wrench to fix it without so much as a cuss word uttered. In

Marilee Foster farms and writes in Sagaponack. edibleeastend.com 29

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ON THE VINE

GRAPE GROWER

Photograph: Randee Daddona

A part-time grape grower makes a life of it. By Eileen Duff y Joseph Reilly is kind of an odd character in the East End wine community: he doesn’t really drink wine, but he grows seven different varieties of grapes on 17 acres of his 37-acre farm in Cutchogue. He has been doing this part-time since he bought the land in 1990, never giving up his day job in air traffic control in Ronkonkoma. edibleeastend.com 31

“I don’t know,” he says while driving his

Reilly is not doing this alone. He son,

golf cart around the vineyard in early Sep-

Shawn, who used to be an electrician in New

tember assessing the bird damage. “I’ve just

York, works the day shift. Shawn came out to

always wanted to grow grapes.” He says he

help with the 2006 vintage, which Reilly calls

remembers growing up in Islip Terrace where

a disaster, and never left, finding that he liked

his neighbors grew grapes and he spent a lot

farm work. There are also part-time workers

of time eating them. “I just like them,” he

to prune and pick.

says, pulling up to the block with malbec.

Last year, damage from birds prompted

“These are my favorite. If I was going to eat

Reilly to go on Craig’s List and get a Jack

the grapes, I’d eat these guys.”

Russell terrier that he’s calling Mr. Russell,

So Reilly, who will only give his age as

in the hope that the dog will chase the birds

over 65, drives to Cutchogue every day af-

away. But, as of early September, Mr. Russell

ter work and on the weekends. He mows

has been there just one day; his birding skills

between the rows to keep down weeds (no

have yet to be tested. Dog or no dog, a trip

spraying). Fixes the irrigation pump, secures

around the riesling leaves Reilly wondering

nets and curses the birds. When he’s not on

why the birds have left the crop alone so far.

the farm he’s making deals with winemak-

This year, too, Reilly is trying something

ers to sell his grapes. Some will commit to a

really different: he wants to make wine from

certain number of tons but then, at harvest,

his grapes and sell it to make some money

take a look and decide they don’t want it any

from his labor. The farm is accessible from

more. More dealing ensues. He talks to his

Main Road, but a tasting room is, as the law

neighbors at Pindar; sometimes they will

stands, out of the question. When Reilly

take some grapes. Sometimes not.

bought the land from a potato farmer, the

He has never made any money. If it bothers him, it’s hard to tell, because he’s so busy trying to keep up with the chores necessary to bring in clean, ripe grapes.

32 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

the county. So now he’s in a maze of permits hoping to open a farm stand. He already has a per-

Winemaker Anthony Nappa has bought

mit from the county, where the definition

grapes from Reilly, some he intended to and

of a farm stand includes the sale of wine, as

others at the last minute. “He has given me

long as it’s made from grapes grown on the

some high-quality grapes,” Nappa says. “But

property, but processing is not allowed on

growers and winemakers have different goals

site. Southold Town code, however, does not

in mind; it’s an inherent conflict. They want a

allow the sale of wine at a farm stand, as pro-

good crop, we want to make good wine.”

cessed agricultural products are limited to 40

An example of this is one year when Reil-

Tel:. 631-283-8898 Fax. 631-283-6614 pam@pamelaglazer.com www.pamelaglazer.com

development rights had already been sold to

percent of a stand’s revenues.

ly’s gewürztraminer never really got off the

This doesn’t seem to bother Reilly much

ground. It was plagued by rot, and a commit-

either. There’s more than one way to skin

ted buyer backed out. Nappa took a look at it

a cat. He’s got his eye on an acre of land in

and suggested Reilly let it hang longer to get

front of his farm that fronts the Main Road

riper. What was there to lose? As it turns out,

and is not zoned agricultural. “If I could buy

the rot was botrytis, a mold integral to some

that…,” he says.

of the world’s best sweet wines. Reilly picked

Reilly reaches the barn and steps out of

at the last minute, and Nappa turned it into

the golf cart. “It’s a struggle,” he says. “But it’s

what he believes is one of his best wines: his

also nice, a sense of accomplishment. That’s

2010 Spezia.

why they have harvest parties. Oh, man.” •

Reilly rounds another block in his vineyard and points out the petit verdot. “They’re

Eileen Duffy is Edible East End’s deputy

tiny,” he says, “and the last ones to come in.”

editor and has no desire to grow grapes.

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barry block L A N D S C A P E D E S I G N & C O N T R A C T I N G, I N C. For more information contact info@barryblock.com or 631-874-3430

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worth the trip

Market Bistro

Farm-to-table’s inroads in Nassau County. story and photograph BY NIKO KROMMY DA S

JERICHO—Back in 1997, when Bill Holden opened

says Acerra. “The seasonal approach is more natural,

Carle Place’s West End Café with Bob Caras, he got

and people won’t get sick of things on the menu.”

his first taste of the global food supply and the ease of

While Holden is executive chef, Charles

unlimited selection and year-round availability. But he

Treadwell is responsible for the kitchen’s daily opera-

also saw the downside. “We were excited to get rasp-

tions. Holden’s son, Chris, a graduate of the Culinary

berries from New Zealand or asparagus from South

Institute of America, helped to open the restaurant.

America when they weren’t available on Long Island,”

He was a sous-chef at New York’s DB Bistro Moderne,

says Holden. “But you forget about the week of travel

and had spent eight months volunteering on a farm in

time for that food, and the freshness.”

Céret, France, in 2003, surrounded by “as much fresh

So, when Holden opened Market Bistro in No-

stuff as one could imagine.” The stint strengthened his

vember 2011 with longtime partner Caras and Adam

desire to educate on seasonality, nutritional balance

Acerra, a former bartender at West End Café, the

and the path of food from soil to plate.

team knew their supply chain would be different. “If

“There is still a disconnect between food and peo-

we can get asparagus here on Long Island, then why

ple, and the masses aren’t demanding to know where

not?” Holden asked, adding that Market Bistro is

our food is coming from,” says Holden. ”We’re seeing a

built on the union of community and food.

lot of farm-to-table in Brooklyn and in the Hamptons,

Though synonymous with Suffolk County’s vast

but the middle of Long Island has nothing. It’s the land

expanses of arable land and its restaurants’ seasonal-

of Italian restaurants and steakhouses. There needs to

driven menus for seasonal-driven inhabitants, farm-to-

be more balance.”

table on Long Island is slowly creeping west to Nassau.

Treadwell, formerly of Bay Shore’s the Lake House,

And Market Bistro is a pioneer within the area, offering

agrees. “If we’re promoting local and practicing sustain-

a menu with local food and liquids proudly displayed

ability, it’s only going to benefit the area we live in and

on a blackboard above an eight-seat communal table.

help better the Earth. We’ll always support our farmers

Greens and vegetables come from Satur Farms (the

and fishermen and meat purveyors as best as we can.”

Cutchogue farm’s only drop-off in Nassau County is

Holden and Treadwell started a small garden in

Market Bistro’s shopping complex, which also con-

Market Bistro’s backyard. It produces heirloom toma-

tains Whole Foods), Hampton Bays’ Cor-J provides

toes, cucumbers, zucchini, lettuce varietals and herbs.

fresh striped bass and scallops, and Oceanside’s Barrier

But it also serves as a symbol of what’s possible—an

Brewing Company and Centerport’s Blind Bat Brew-

oasis of edible landscaping and transparent food sup-

ery are often pouring at the restaurant’s eight-draft bar.

ply within suburbia.

Even pickles are local, from Horman’s Best Pickles in

“Even if one person sees our tomatoes growing,

Glen Cove. If an item isn’t seasonally available, another

and then it’s right on their plate, it helps them see the

is temporarily substituted. And customers understand.

connection,” says Holden. “We’re putting energy in our

“It’s great when our regular customers come in

food on a subtle level. We want people to leave here feel-

every week asking when we’ll have fresh tomatoes,”

34 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

ing positive.” •

“We were excited to get raspberries from New Zealand or asparagus from South America when they weren’t available on Long Island. But you forget about the week of travel time for that food, and the freshness.”

edibleeastend.com 35

36 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

OBSESSIONS

What do you do with 45,000 garlic scapes? And why Homeland Security cares.

Photograph: Lindsay Morris

By Geraldine Pluenneke

Garlic scapes, those slim, bright-green, foot-long

then buying quarts of both hot-pepper and dill gar-

shoots with a pig-tail curl at the top that a new garlic

lic scapes. One of the most contented tasters was a

bulb sends up in the Spring, are sensational on a char-

10-month-old boy in his father’s arms sucking one,

coal grill—crispy, crunchy, flavor-packed. Pruning the

clearly voting it comfort food.

delectable shoots allows the young garlic bulbs below

Three years ago, Quail Hill’s bountiful garlic

to grow 30 percent larger. But their season is fleeting.

crop began dying just before harvest. Yanked from

There are only a few weeks to add their soft fledgling

the earth, only shriveled husks remained where garlic

garlic freshness to sautéed greens or fresh marinara.

bulbs had been growing earlier. The culprit was the

So what did Quail Hill Farm do with the 45,000

microscopic bloat nematode, which had hitchhiked

garlic scapes it harvested over two weeks in late May

with seed from a Canadian grower all over the North-

2012? Why did a CSA, a community-supported agri-

eastern U.S. and through a catalog into home gardens.

culture farm, plant so much garlic seed (or cloves), 800

Homeland Security began investigating since the

pounds of it, in the first place? And what did the U.S.

infected plants crossed national borders. Unlike late

Department of Homeland Security have to do with it?

blight—Phytophthora infestans—which plagues toma-

The sheer volume of a 45,000 garlic scape harvest

toes and can travel 30 miles on the wind wiping out

demands resourcefulness. None landed in the farm’s

crops just before harvest, as it has here three of the past

compost heap, the fate of some excess vegetables. It

four years, bloat travels only when an infected plant is

didn’t raise much cash, although the green shoots sell

moved. Even worse, soil in which infected garlic seed

two or three for a dollar at some farm stands. The 250

grows remains infected. Now a serious dilemma faces

families who are members of the Amagansett CSA

growers: How do you know whether seed is infected

lugged off sack after scape-ladened sack for instant grat-

with something you can’t see?

ification and larders. Scapes freeze well and add won-

One solution, says Scott Chaskey, director of

derful life to any number of mid-winter dishes. Frozen

Quail Hill, is to track down seeds from farmers who

garlic scape pesto from Quail Hill has been a staple at

have been growing their own in a closed cycle for

its farmers market stands and shop for several years.

years. Late last September, young farmers planted

But would you believe pickled garlic scapes? Jeri

garlic cloves from 800 pounds of a trusted garlic pur-

Woodhouse of a Taste of the North Fork, who has

chase, and the cycle of garlic began with mild to inten-

been custom pickling beets, beans, cucumber and

sifying flavor worth snatching at any stage. First came

even pumpkin for the farm, turned 1,000 pounds

wild green garlic in April, then 45,000 scapes in late

of scapes into 250 quarts of pickles. There’s a slight

May, softly flavored garlic bulbs in June, and assertive

resistance to the bite of a pickled scape and a subtle

cured garlic a few weeks later. Last fall the farm again

complexity of flavor compared to your average cu-

planted 800 pounds of garlic—this time its own crop.

cumber dill; it’s easy to find you’ve munched a full

Spring forecast: 45,000 scapes ahead. •

foot-plus length of pickled shoot. Skeptical farm members at Quail Hill’s annual breakfast were seen hesitantly tasting samples,

Geraldine Pluenneke writes from Montauk and blogs at thepowerofflavor.com. edibleeastend.com 37

GARLIC SCAPE PESTO Jeri Woodhouse, who prepares Quail Hill’s line of value-added products that you find in farmers markets—all manner of pickles including scapes and pesto—shares her recipe for garlic scape pesto with Edible East End readers. Both whole scapes and pesto freeze well and add wonderful life to any number of mid-winter dishes. “Frozen pesto is one item that can be defrosted and refrozen without harm. I often freeze leftover pesto in ice cube trays and store in plastic bags in the freezer to use in sauces and soups later on,” Woodhouse says. Use fresh-picked garlic scapes, breaking off the tough bottom ends much like snapping off woody asparagus ends. Measure out:

8 cups of garlic scapes cut into 2-inch pieces 2 cups olive oil 8 cloves of fresh garlic, peeled 2 tablespoons lemon juice Salt and pepper to taste The following nuts and cheese are optional. 1 cup of pine nuts (or nuts of your choice, i.e., macadamia, almonds, walnuts) 2 cups of grated Parmesan cheese Place the scapes and garlic cloves in a food processor with a little oil. Turn on the processor and slowly drizzle in the rest of the oil and salt and pepper to taste. When well mixed, add nuts, if using, and quickly process. Add cheese and quickly process in. Pack in 8-ounce deli containers or containers of your choice. Pesto must be stored refrigerated or frozen. If refrigerated, the shelf life is one week.

38 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

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5/2/13

1:12 PM

DINNER 5:30PM “Its always good to eat”

6 PARLATO DRIVE • WESTHAMPTON BEACH • 631.288.3500

www.starrboggsrestauant.com

The Chefs Dinner Sunday, July 28, 2013

Meet The Chefs Cocktail Party Chefs tastings, cocktails, auction, music by Lily and the Parlor Tricks.

Intimate VIP Chefs Dinner honoring 4-Star Chef Eric Ripert at the home of Toni Ross.

Tickets are limited Ticket Hotline 631-537-7068 x113 Or purchase online www.greatchefsdinner.com To benefit Jeff’s Kitchen & Jeff Salaway Scholarship Fund at Hayground School, Bridgehampton, NY

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American Eel Blackfish Black Sea Bass Blowfish Blue Crab Bluefish Butterfish Chicken & Eggs Clams Conch Dogfish Duck Flounder Fluke Lobster Mackerel Mako Milk & Cheese Monkfish Mussels Oysters Perch Porgies Striped Bass Sea Robin Sea Scallop Sake Squid Swordfish Tilefish Tuna Turkey Weakfish Whitebait

Beets Blackberries Blueberries Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Cherries Corn Cucumbers Eggplant Fennel Garlic Greens (Chard, Collards, Kale, Mustard, Spinach) Leeks Jerusalem Artichokes Melons Mushrooms (farmed and wild) Nectarines Onion Peaches Peas Peppers Plums Potatoes (new) Radishes Summer Squash Turnips Zucchini

In June and July, the warming days begin to drive spring crops out of fields and generate our first summer flavors. Some last asparagus will be kicking around, peas and spinach will remain if it’s not too hot. Turnips and radishes start to plump. And greens like chard, kale, collards and lettuces are as leafy and abundant as ever. Leeks, onions and garlic reach their zenith. There are new potatoes to dig by July. The season’s first fruit begins with strawberries in June, blackberries and raspberries later in the month, and cherries by the 4th of July, foreshadowing the melons and peaches of high summer. With the aid

40 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Photographs: Lindsay Morris

June and July

of greenhouses and floating row covers, some farmers are even coaxing tomatoes, sweet corn, cukes, zukes and other summer crops to ripen by mid-July. In the water, shellfish are abundant and succulent (they don’t begin to spawn until end of July and into August). Bluefish appear in droves, starting with snappers and cocktail blues, and growing into four- and five-pound monsters by the time full-size spuds are dug in August. Stripers aren’t far behind, but remain more coy until fall. Sea robin, blackfish, triggerfish and other underestimated marine characters start surprising fishers and the people they feed. •

edibleeastend.com 41

Edible Activity for the Whole Family

u ly i s • •

onth

N ati o

BERRIES

•

••

•

••

•

•J

Blueberr y

in every shade By Gwendolen Groocock • Illustrations by Bambi Edlund

June and July bring an abundance of sweet, tasty berries to the farm stands of the East End. Strawberries grow on low, straggly plants and are ripe in June. Raspberries and blackberries come in many varieties and ripen from June through September. They grow on long, prickly canes, in clusters of juicy bumps. Wild thimbleberries and wineberries are like raspberries; a great place to forage for them is at the edge of the woods. Blueberries grow on leafy bushes.

blueberry

It’s fun to pick your own berries, too! To pick your own on the East End, visit Wickham’s Fruit Farm in Cutchogue, Patty’s Berries and Bunches in Mattituck (who supplied the fascinating

42 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

factoids on the next page), Golden Earthworm Organic Farm in Jamesport, Anderson Farms in Riverhead, Hank’s Farm in Southampton, and Seven Ponds Orchard in Watermill. Choose berries that are brightly colored and not hard or mushy. Broken berries will get moldy very quickly, so you don’t want them in your basket. The best time to pick is early morning after the dew has dried but before the sun gets too high in the sky. Don’t eat too many, or you will get a stomachache, and don’t forget water, a hat and sunscreen. The Mattituck Lion’s Club had been holding a Strawberry Festival for 59 years. This year, from June 14 through 16, the festival will include a hulling night, rides and live music. Thousands of pounds of strawberries will be turned into shortcake and smoothies. mattituckstrawberryfestival.org

thimbleberry Rubbing the outside of a strawberry on your teeth will make them whiter.

Blueberries were once used to make blue paint. That is where we got the paint chip Colonial blue.

blackberry

Strawberries have more vitamin C per serving than an orange.

Giant strawberries can be as large as apples.

strawberry

edibleeastend.com 43

WINEMAKER’S WONDERINGS

20 Snapshots of the creative elements of making wine. By James Christopher Trac y Author’s note: In 2012, assistant curator at the Parrish Art Museum Andrea Grover introduced “PechaKucha Nights” to the East End. With the theme of “Living Creatively on the East End,” 10 members of the community are invited to present 20 slides at 20 seconds each, yielding six minutes and 40 seconds per presenter. Meaning “chit-chat” in Japanese these evening installations were actually started in Japan as a way for young architects without other outlets to share their work and network, and 500 cities around the world have launched similar happenings. At the Parrish, the evenings have blossomed into a series of inspirational evenings that happen each quarter, with a fresh batch of presenters. They became a unique, curated opportunity to meet the many artists, writers, musicians, gardeners, farmers, baymen, winemakers, chefs, designers, architects and other creative professionals that comprise our region, including contributors and subjects from this magazine: farmers like Marilee Foster; Ty Kotz of Topping Rose House; salt producers Stephen and Natalie Judelson; restaurateur Dennis McDermott of the Riverhead Project. The following text and images are from the presentation that the author gave at the Parrish Art Museum on November 21, 2012.

Place: This is what we celebrate. Our home, Our Terroir. We try to reflect it in every bottle, that sense of

Relevance: It is one of those things we all look for…want. In our life, Art, work, Community. Reaching, striving, finding, losing, hoping for… And that’s what

I’m trying to squeeze out of this fistful of grapes!

Potential: Like a newborn, so much possibility, so much hope, so much unknown, so much happiness,

so much worry, so full of life.

4 4 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Photographs: Daniel Gonzales, Lindsay Morris, James Christopher Tracy

somewhereness. It is special, it is beauty, it is light, it is Home.

5 4

Soil: Much more than sand, more complex than

Animal: Yes, that was Remy barking. She comes almost everywhere with us. And who can deny what the animal illuminates. The primal, simplicity, love, companion-

ship, silence. The paradox of happiness and hassle that animals bring is priceless.

credited for, our beautiful loam, mixture of sand,

silt and clay, with its gravelly subsoils. A glacier helped form this island 10,000 years ago. What amazes me still is its drainage potential—two to four inches of rain, and it’s gone in a few hours!

Water: I don’t even know where to begin…. It’s even more important! It defines our existence, its why we

are here, causes all the bad and all the good and we all re-

quire extraordinary amounts; in the winery alone 2 to 10 liters is needed just to make 1 liter of wine.

Harvest: One cycle ends. Another begins. With one snip, one growing, one making. Inextricably linked and at this moment one.

Clones: In the old days we used to bury a cane,

one side popping out exposed and cut the next year. Presto a new cloned plant. This connects us to an ancient past. These vines looked at that way have been alive for thousands of years. And thus links us to those people who cared for them before.

edibleeastend.com 45

Inspection: So many decisions made in this moment, organaleptic and analytical. How is the

fruit integrity? What are the aromas, flavors, chemistry? How will we process, where will it go, what style is intended?

Fermentation: Still Magical. So much we

still don’t know or understand. It hasn’t even been 150 years since

sive, sexual works dot our landscape. He handed a creative blank

slate to partner and founder Larry Perrine who in turn has passed the same Tabla Rasa to us. Channing Daughters oozes creative spirit.

White: We celebrate all the hues possible in the

spectrum of color and style. Here

Pasteur identified what it was. The agitation, the excitement. No two are the same, the rate, temperature, kinetics, chemistry, sound, taste, smell, outcome. It is psychedelic.

Orange: Ancient. White wines made

like red wines. Fermented

classic-modern whites. Hand-har-

on their skins. They take on

vested fruit. Whole Cluster-pressed

characteristics not typically

gently. Expressed, delicate juice.

expected in whites. Tex-

Transferred to vessels for ferment.

tural, complex, meditative.

Only possible since electricity,

Recently re-appreciated. En-

stainless steel and refrigeration.

gages the intellectual as well as the hedonic self.

Pink: Made just like the wh ite w i nes .

Modern-intervened upon. Sexy.

Red: For us— Old School. Hand

harvest beautiful ripe fruit.

Frivolous and serious. Delicious,

De-stem, Ferment. Stomp

diverse, beautiful, fun, playful,

on, punch down by hand

refreshing.

and shovel in small one ton bins. Press off—barrel— bottle. That’s it. Minimal.

46 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Photographs: Daniel Gonzales, Lindsay Morris, James Christopher Tracy

Art: Our partner Walter Channing’s beautiful, whimsical, impres-

D el i c i o u s n e s s : This looks like pleasure. What

we do, what we try to do, is highly pleasing to the senses. It is alive. It tastes good. It smells good. It looks good. It feels good. It sounds good. It is good all throughout its existence.

Creations: People sometimes ask which is the best or your favorite, but there is not one…like children. Each

one is individual. Each has a reason for being. Every wine has a mood, food, time, place, season, person to indulge and interact with, to compare and contrast. To create a story with.

Crew: We have the best crew around. That extends to everyone who works at CDW, but Abel our vineyard manager and his three broth-

ers and brother-in-law are rock stars! Little needs to be said, just a look…a nod. We’ve all worked together a decade-plus now, everyone understands what it takes. From digging a hole to delivering a case. There is pride, continuity.

Heritage: Something that comes

to one by reason of birth. It is reassuring in this day and age that some things can still be passed down through genera-

Family: What is more important? This is the reason for everything. All love and creativity emanates from this

unit. And how wonderful, lucky to get to live and work here on the

tions. And inspiring to think

East End with my family and friends growing grapes and making

our children, if they choose,

wines. It’s not easy. But there is nothing better or more relevant.

could select that path. This little guy has been part of

James Christopher Tracy is the winemaker and partner at Chan-

growing wine since he could

ning Daughters Winery in Bridgehampton, as well as a student

taste a grape and ask to help.

candidate for the Institute of Masters of Wine. edibleeastend.com 47

BEHIND THE BOTTLE

MCCALL RANCH 2010 RESERVE PINOT NOIR The latest reserve vintage from the vineyard founded around this grape. By Eileen M . Duff y

Pinot noir is known as the heartbreak grape. It’s notoriously fickle in the

ters that show a touch of mildew or even individual berries that suffered a

vineyard, with thin-skinned fruit packed in tight clusters that make it

peck from a starling, the East End’s bane. This could be why so many grape

tricky to ripen. As the crop ripens, pinot noir growers—whether on Long

growers in Burgundy—home of the deep-reaching root of the pinot noir

Island or in Europe—painstakingly inspect vines and cull out fruit clus-

mystery—are happy owning just a few rows in famous, named vineyards.

48 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

McCall thinks it’s ready to drink now with a dinner of roasted meats. “Anything not cooked on a grill,” he adds. “Indoor cooking of almost any meat goes with the lighter wines.”

drainage.) A former importer of Burgundian wine, McCall was able to visit those storied rows and talk to the workers who tended them and the winemakers who turned their fruit into some of the world’s most soughtafter wine. He joined the cult. “I guess you could call it my passion,” says McCall. “When I told Stephen Mudd I wanted to plant it, he told me not to do it.” Mudd is now McCall’s consulting vineyard manager; he became a convert after McCall sent him to Oregon, which is in the vanguard of pinot growing in the United States. The men decided to plant four clones successful in Oregon and wait 10 years before using the fruit. “I heard in Burgundy that that’s how long it takes,” McCall says. But farming is sometimes making do. In the first years, McCall was working land he had bought in concert with the Peconic Land Trust to aid in preservation. Woods edged some of it, which until this day makes it susceptible to bird damage. Most of that fruit goes into their Marjorie’s Rosé. The fruit grown farther afield at a little higher elevation goes into their bottlings of red pinot noir—except in excellent years. Then, it goes into the Reserve Pinot Noir, which has only been produced in 2007, which just sold out, and in 2010, the current vintage, which is available at McCall’s Cutchogue tasting room for $60. The wine, as are all of McCall’s pinots, was made by John Graziano at Millbrook Vineyards and Winery in the Hudson River Valley. It’s been part of a trade that’s working out for all. The grapes are trucked up to Millbrook; the winery keeps some for its own bottlings, and the rest are turned into McCall wine. The owners of Millbrook, John and Kathie Dyson, are also part of the pinot club: they own Williams Selyem Winery in Sonoma in California, which is known for its pinot noir. To make the reserve, Graziano says he uses partial whole-cluster fermentation, which slows down the process, allowing for greater extraction. The wine then goes into a higher percentage of new oak barrels than the regular pinot noir. What they end up with is rich, red, cherry wine with a bit of spice from the oak, a wine that will age, with great acid to balance with food and

Photograph: Randee Daddona

lower alcohol than some of the bigger wines. “It’s light bodied,” says McCall, “and I’m looking for that pinot essence that has all those pretty flavors that change in the glass and get interesting. It’s like a beautiful song.” All this is not lost on Russell McCall, owner of McCall Ranch in

McCall thinks it’s ready to drink now with a dinner of roasted

Cutchogue, where he tends nearly 11 acres of pinot noir, planted in 1997.

meats. “Anything not cooked on a grill,” he adds. “Indoor cooking of

(His vineyards also include merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvi-

almost any meat goes with the lighter wines.”

gnon. But the pinot is planted on the sandier soils, which make for better

With only 290 cases made, it might be wise to try it soon. • edibleeastend.com 49

back of the house

the hampton maid

Three generations serve the East End’s most famous breakfast. By pat marlowe • photographs by lindsay morris A family vibe infuses the Hampton Maid, a bed-and-breakfast off Old Montauk Highway in Hampton Bays. Walk in the kitchen and hear the kind of good-natured ribbing that can make a workday fly by. At the front desk, ask to be put on the wait list for breakfast and sense a maternal presence. You just know there are kids around, and nieces and daughters-in-law and the kind of best friends that stand next to you in front of a hot griddle for hours and hours, year on end. All to turn out one of the best breakfasts on the East End. “We use fresh ingredients, cooked to order at the proper temperature,” says Steve Poulakis, the second of three generations to know the difference between over easy, sunny-side up and over medium. “We think it should be like that everywhere, but that’s just not true.” Because it’s true here, lines start to form for the morning meal soon after the restaurant opens at 7 a.m., as it does all summer. During the height of the season it’s open until 1 p.m., weekdays until 11 a.m. They don’t take reservations, so the parking lot and gift shop are filled with people holding buzzers to let them know when their table is ready. edibleeastend.com 51

52 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

edibleeastend.com 53

It wasn’t always like this. In 1958, the Hampton

expansion and now the breakfast platter with two

Maid was the Sail Inn, a motel that “needed some

thin pancakes, French toast with regular sandwich

love,” says Steve. His parents, John and Marion, saw

bread (as it should be), hickory smoked bacon, two

it after taking a drive through the Hamptons. Later

eggs, real maple syrup from Wisconsin, not Vermont,

Marion, who was a graphic designer, would draw the

because the family thinks it tastes better, and hash

iconic maid of the logo on a paper napkin and then

browns made from potatoes smashed on the griddle.

move the family out to Shinnecock Hills where they lived in rooms 12 and 14 (there was no 13).

Breakfast is still evolving. Son Josh, who has been working in the kitchen since he had to stand on

Renovations started, the family built their own

a milk crate to do the dishes, uses seasonal fruit from

home on the property and finally “because we’re

Schmidt’s to make specials like roasted plums with va-

Greeks and it’s in our blood,” says Steve, his father

nilla mascarpone and watermelon salad with a mojito

opened a coffee shop. Just some coffee and toast, then

syrup. When John started cooking, says Steve, there

eggs and pancakes, French toast and blintzes, then

was never any thought of putting a tomato or egg

54 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

First Came Coffee: Breakfast is still evolving. Son Josh, who has been working in the kitchen since he had to stand on a milk crate to do the dishes, uses seasonal fruit from Schmidt’s to make specials like roasted plums with vanilla mascarpone and watermelon salad with a mojito syrup.

whites on the menu. Now, he says, they sell tomato,

friend standing next to Steve at the griddle is Albert

mozzarella and basil omelets (with a little ham because

Bennett, a partner who started working at the Maid

Steve likes it that way, “and I’m the cook”) all day, and

when he was still delivering milk for his family’s long

eggs whites are a staple.

gone Sherry’s Dairy, once of Southampton. “He’s a

Photographs: Lindsay Morris

Family is evolving, too. John still helps out in the

70-year-old kid,” says Steve.

kitchen, Steve’s wife, Sharon, runs the front of the

The Hampton Maid closes for the winter, which the

house for breakfast and the rest of the house—the

family spends upgrading the rooms and the five acres of

29 guest rooms—the rest of the time. Sister Lesley

grounds. “We take pride in it,” says Steve. “It takes a lot

Bellows is a partner, her daughter Jessica works in

to do what we do every day. But when we’re really work-

the kitchen and daughter Tara Curry is the book-

ing together, it’s exhilarating. Other days, you want to go

keeper and Webmaster. Marion died nine years ago,

home and throw your shoe out the door.” •

taking with her a “big piece of Dad,” who still has the napkin with the logo design, says Steve. And the

Pat Marlowe writes from her home in Southold. edibleeastend.com 55

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IN THE KITCHEN WITH

MILLIE AND THE REV. CHUCK CAREY Sunday dinner involves the community and local goods.

By Eileen M . Duff y • Photographs by R andee Daddona WESTHAMPTON BEACH—The house is near storybook perfect. There are chickens in the yard, the garden is being prepped, and plugs of lettuce are sprouting on the back deck. Inside it gets better, a full table set with plates and silverware for two courses. Salads are already placed on chargers under a large crystal chandelier. It’s Sunday night dinner for the Rev. Charles Cary and his wife, Millie, at the white Victorian parsonage across the street from the Westhampton Presbyterian Church, where Cary serves as pastor. “Chuckie doesn’t really have a weekend,” says Millie, referring to the worship her husband leads Sunday mornings. “So we have regular Sunday dinners and invite members of the church and the community.” Always up for a challenge, Millie went out of her way to make this dinner as local as possible. To start, she serves cold kombucha tea she had bought the day before at the Tanger Food Truck Derby from Martine Abitbol, who was manning the Wandering Palate truck. “I’ve never had it before, but it was made here,” she says. On the coffee table are cheeses from Mecox farm and the 5 Spoke Creamery in Goshen, New York. Fromage blanc from Goodale Farms in Riverhead provides the base for a horseradish spread and a vehicle for herbes de Provence. Millie made the focaccia with olive oil she bought in the Paumanok Tasting Room. edibleeastend.com 57

Photographs: Randee Daddona

58 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

edibleeastend.com 59

Millie tells a story about the garbage men accidently carting off her compost heap while she was working at the church rummage sale. Chuck sits down with a local beer to talk about the church and house. This is his second turn as pastor here. The first stint was from 1985 to 1999. Then for 10 years he taught at McCormick Theological Seminary in Chicago. The three-story parsonage was built in 1889 with small parlors. The church itself was founded in 1742. “Probably licensed by the crown,” says Chuck. (From the kitchen we can hear Millie. “Oh, my God, she’s taking a picture of the inside of my refrigerator!”) Chuck continues: “All the furniture is ours. Once we were visited by a family that used to live here when their father was pastor.” Millie has scallops planned for dinner with Chinese broccoli from Sang Lee. “We’ll see how this works,” she says. “Never had it before.” Talk turns to family recipes, and as the broccoli sautées, Millie brings out her family cookbook to share her meatloaf recipe. The cookbook is a three-ringed binder with each recipe in a sheath of plastic and pictures of children and grandchildren scattered through. It’s illustrated. Meat for the meat loaf, she does not get locally; however, she approves of the new butcher, the Cow Palace, in Westhampton Beach. She is open to local meat ideas. And the plan for the summer is to have an organic garden. Millie tells a story about the garbage men accidently carting off her compost heap while she was working at the church rummage sale. Dinner is served family style with a platter of roasted potatoes following the seared scallops on a tomato caper sauce and the broccoli. Chuck says grace and then tells a story about the confirmation students at the church who went around the room taking turns listing the talents of their classmates. Everyone talks about the chickens and how they’re supposed to lower your heart rate. Chuck gets up to refresh a wine glass with Paumanok’s 2012 Chenin Blanc. Dessert comes out, and then the pastor starts clearing the table. “He cleans up and sets the table,” says Millie. “I don’t know what side the fork goes on.” •

Sunday Dinner The Rev. Chuck Carey (previous page) heads the table. Wife Millie (left) holds one of her chickens. 60 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

EDIBLE SUBSCRIBERS CLUB

edible

MANHATTAN • BROOKLYN • EAST END

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JUNE 22–29 • East End, Manhattan, Brooklyn The 4th annual Eat Drink Local week kicks off June 22 and involves partners from the entire food chain, who urge you to dine out, cook in, and celebrate the ingredients, landscape and people behind our food and drink through a week’s worth of events.

Subscriber access to scores of select spots. Enjoy countless sweet savings with this complimentary club membership. JULY 31 • 82 Mercer, NYC New York’s ultimate beer and food pairing event returns this summer. A hops and eats extravaganza. Next visit to Brooklyn Flea Market, swing by McClure’s stand to receive 25% off any of their jarred items—from garlic dill pickles to their shockingly addictive spicy Bloody Mary Mix.

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AUGUST 9 • The Hayground School, Bridgehampton Join us for a bonanza of ethnic and mobile eats rarely seen on the East End, when a caravan of New York City and Long Island food trucks park amidst potato fields. NY wine, beer and non-alcoholic drink offerings.

Learn more and reap the benefits at edibleeastend.com/benefits

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FUN FUNFOR FORTHE THE WHOLE WHOLEFAMILY! FAMILY! The The food food truck truck coming coming together together will will coincide coincide with with the the Hayground Hayground School School Community Community farmers farmers market market and and programming programming for for kids kids and and families. families. And And the the event event will will benefit benefit the the Hayground Hayground School School and and Jeff’s Jeff’s Kitchen, Kitchen, one one ofof the the first first edible edible schoolyard schoolyard projects projects inin the the region, region, which which provides provides culinary culinary arts arts training training for for local local kids. kids.

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ON GOOD LAND

Fully Seasoned

A farm intern learns to love the interaction between soil and people. By Emma Leavens I was a stranger here when I arrived for an apprenticeship at Amagansett’s Amber Waves Farm. After one phone call and a Skype conversation, I committed to a full season of farm work under the guidance of my farmers and mentors, Katie Baldwin and Amanda Merrow. I understood I was assigned a job with a set of fascinating and practical tasks, but my growing skill set was quickly surpassed by what I learned about my sense of place. The details I learned at Amber Waves—seeding, transplanting, fertilizing, cultivating, harvesting and all the projects that fill our long days—are transferable because they can be put to use on all arable land. Yet attentive farmers will quickly let you know they’ve never seen the same season twice, and no two plots present the same challenges. Even here on the East End, if you hop over the train tracks to Quail Hill, Balsam or Sunset Beach farms, you’ll find a different set of soil complexities and systems. But what does not change is an intimacy of place that occurs while developing a set of abilities and observational sensitivities that tie us to the land. To merely know that blossom-end rot occurs in plants in the nightshade family when they are short on calcium or have been watered inconsistently is, admittedly, a dry piece of information until you recognize it in your own field and become a nutritionist for your plants and soil. Our soil is the foundation of everything we do, and as we are only as healthy as our food, our food is only as healthy as our soil. Having hand weeded and flame weeded, hoed and wheel hoed, disked and dibbled, planted and transplanted and finally harvested, I have just begun to understand how the life of the soil affects the livelihood of a place. The other side of our work is interacting with the community through farm tours, our community-supported agriculture program and farmers markets, where we proudly provide good food and educate people about what they eat. Explaining the role of pollinators, plant families and, unbelievably, the seasons to children and many adults who have never wandered through a farm field or met a field-ripened tomato is gratifying. A farm tour quickly engages people with their food, their bodies and their environment. Saskia Madlener of Balsam Farms has noted that community members who pay attention to their food are among the most committed to their community. Photograph: Courtesy of Emma Leavens

That said, I find it especially healthy that our challenges are rarely if ever with other people. Our obstacles primarily include weather, weeds and pests. A round of greens never germinated due to a lack of rain, nearly all our beets and carrots were lost to weeds, and half our white wheat and every dry bean we attempted to grow were enjoyed by very determined deer before we could harvest. I think this is, in many ways, what unites East End farmers. Some farms are nonprofits and others businesses of varying methods and scale, but the camaraderie occurs. Jess Engle was the only apprentice working with Sunset Beach Farm this season; her position had the potential to be isolating, but her experience was the opposite. She says she felt like a “part of a farm family…and part of a community passionate about food and farming out here on the East End.”

edibleeastend.com 65

By farming, I share a practice of living vividly. I

monarch butterflies eating from our 200-foot bed of

witness a field’s moods, weaknesses and sensitivities

torch sunflowers—and pollinating in exchange. With

as well as my own and those of fellow farmers. It’s a

a little research, we learned those incredibly delicate

lifestyle that doesn’t end at the close of the day; it ends

creatures were on their 2,500-mile migration to Mexi-

when I stop being able to work. I feel the capabilities

co; we were just witnessing a snack along the way.

of my body and witness the products of my thinking

To watch something so small but so grand and re-

more potently than I have experienced in any other

member we get to take part in it is endlessly humbling.

work. When I wake, my muscles are stiff and uncon-

With only four people and five acres, we feed ourselves,

vinced by the sunrise; my body shakes out the fatigue

grow for 70 farm members, two farmers markets and

and forgets the pains because, in work of such con-

several restaurants each week, as well as fostering a

sequence, our aches are irrelevant. By evening those

space hospitable to insects, birds, microbial life, foxes,

muscles begin to slow again, deny their strength and

rabbits and, accidentally, deer. Our participation takes

assert their need to rest. How wonderful a body can

care of the land and enables all of that living; what a

understand the rising and falling of day and night as

marvelous and overwhelming responsibility that is. •

Past Sunset: I witness a field’s moods, weaknesses and sensitivities as well as my own and those of fellow farmers. It’s a lifestyle that doesn’t end at the close of the day; it ends when I stop being able to work.

Most farming apprentices I know on the East

Emma Leavens completed her first farming season

End intend to continue farming and hope to have

in 2012 as an apprentice at Amber Waves Farm in

their own farms someday. The others, who will go on

Amagansett, New York. She grew up in northeast

to other jobs, say their relationship with food and the

Missouri and moved here from Olympia, Washington,

seasons has been irreversibly enhanced. Just today,

were she graduated from the Evergreen State College.

as Katie and I walked out of the field after a couple

She will be remaining with Amber Waves Farm for the

hours of tomato harvesting, we noticed hundreds of

2013 farm season.

66 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Photograph: Lindsay Morris

the weather does with the seasons.

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Signature Poultry

Waterfowl used to rule the East End, and their reputation remains. By Eileen M . Duff y • Photographs by R andee Daddona Just over the railroad tracks in Eastport there’s a mailbox with a duck on it.

front of you like a scene from Old MacDonald’s. There’s a pond, low-slung

It’s in front of a white clapboard house not much different from the others

duck houses, large shade trees and flocks of white Pekin ducks, the breed

on Railroad Avenue. But take a right down the dirt driveway past the old

that once made Long Island synonymous with the dark, fat-crusted poul-

tractors and barns, and one of Long Island’s last duck farms spreads out in

try served in big city restaurants, fancy boarding houses and Chinatowns

68 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

For 54 years, he has watched and then taken over shepherding 3,000 ducks a week from egg to sell-weight. No days off, no rain days, on the alert for foxes and the occasional mallard that might want to partake in his ducks’ grain ration.

coast to coast for near the entirety of the 20th century.

er on the other side of town. Massey has been working

Pekins—bred to grow fat, fast and in a range of

on it his entire life. For 54 years, he has watched and

conditions—made it to the States from China in

then taken over shepherding 3,000 ducks a week from

1873, and by 1900 there were 30 duck farms on the

egg to sell-weight. No days off, no rain days, on the

East End, whose moderate climate, proximity to water

alert for foxes and the occasional mallard that might

and sandy soil were ideal; by 1940 there were 90 in the

want to partake in his ducks’ grain ration.

towns of Brookhaven, Southampton and Riverhead, most bordering Moriches Bay.

The egg-to-bird chain is a quick one, albeit still done by hand. During the week, Massey collects eggs

Which is where Paul Massey’s farm on Railroad

and puts them in a cooler until he has 3,000. Then

Avenue sits. It’s been there since the ’40s, when his

they go into the incubators. Some of the incubators

grandfather bought the first parcel. The farm grew

look like vintage wooden walk-in refrigerators (except

when his father bought the land next door and anoth-

they’re warm) with thermometers and racks that must edibleeastend.com 69

edibleeastend.com 71

Photographs: Randee Daddona

Pekins—known to grow fat and fast—made it to the States from China in 1873, and by 1900 there were 30 duck farms on the East End, whose moderate climate, proximity to water and sandy soil were ideal; by 1940 there were 90 in the towns of Brookhaven, Southampton and Riverhead, most bordering Moriches Bay.

be turned by hand. Down the row are modern metal

Massey’s take on his routine is divided between a

incubators with digital readouts and machine-operated

square perspective of the past—when the business was

racks. Both do the same thing: keep the eggs at the tem-

so big the farmers had a processing co-op and a grain

perature of a brooding duck but with the goal of hav-

co-op; when farms were legacy operations with eager

ing them all hatch the same day, which for Massey is

inheritors; and when there was no concern about

on Tuesday evenings. During the week of incubation,

runoff into the creeks—and about the same amount

Massey candles each egg by shining a light through it to

of romance for the future (his ears pricked up at the

see if it has rotted (in which case it’s cloudy), was never

suggestion of an intern).

fertilized (clear) or, like about 75 percent of his eggs, shows the spidery lines of a fertilized egg.

With the steady good nature of the laconic farmer whose existence is dictated by a life-cycle other than his

“The new breeders are better,” he says of his male

own, Massey spends his days in a well-grooved system.

ducks. “The old ones get lazy and don’t want to chase

His children have moved away, but Long Island duck is

the females.” Massey quickly goes over the eggs with

still wanted in the marketplace. With its moist, flavor-

the light taking less than a second to assess their vi-

ful flesh, duck continues to squeeze chicken out of more

ability. His black labs are happy to eat the unfertilized

discerning kitchens. Maybe the local food movement

eggs, which often end up on the ground.

will keep the farm from the developers.

day mornings when the trays of fertilized eggs become a yellow, writhing powder puff of ducklings—peeping, peeping, peeping as they peck their way through their wombs of calcium to step on each other and poke around with their orange beaks. The chicks will stay on the farm for six weeks until they reach six to six and a half pounds; they then will be trucked to Crescent Duck Farm in Aquebogue, the only duck processor left on the island, where they’re slaughtered, plucked and cleaned into about five and a half pounds of poultry ready for consumption. In between, Massey moves each week’s brood through six houses, one for 10-day-olds, one for 17-dayolds and so on, where they lose their downy feathers for the stiff white feathers of an adult. He doesn’t use vaccines, relying on herd immunity, and he sells the duck manure to tree farmers. The ducks are free to go outside during the day, and the five- and six-week-old ducks have ponds to paddle in and are able to take advantage of those shade trees. “Ducks don’t like heat,” says Massey. 72 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

While most of Long Island’s duck farms have closed, memories remain. David Wilcox’s greatgreat-grandfather Orville started Oceanic Duck Farm in 1883 on Brushy Neck in Speonk. His father, mother and brother kept it going until 1987—past the 100-year mark—a milestone Wilcox says the Crescent Duck Farm, run by the Corwin family, will soon overtake. Wilcox was a key source for the exhibit on East End duck farms put on by the Westhampton Historical Society last summer. Ask him about it and he’ll start rattling off names of neighbors long out of business and their innovations and defeats. The Indian Island Golf Course in Riverhead used to be the Hubbard Duck Farm. The Warners used to raise their ducks where the Kmart now stands. The names are familiar street names on the East End: Tuttle, Culver, Raynor, Hallock. At the beginning of the 20th century, ducks were good business. But by the ’70s, Wilcox’s grandfather wanted to sell.

“What surprised me most is how much of the history of the farms is still out there in the dilapidated barns that still exist. These farmers never threw anything away.”

Photograph: Randee Daddona

So the best time to visit the hatchery is Wednes-

edibleeastend.com 73

still exist. These farmers never threw anything away.”

says Wilcox. After the two reached a deal, his father

The exhibit included old incubators, endless pro-

invested in a processing plant in Riverhead. But soon

motional materials, histories of the families and a

environmental regulations and the high cost of feed

newspaper article from 1902 that told the tale of the

forced the family to take in ducks from Pennsylvania

“duck girls,” the best of whom could pluck 100 chick-

to keep the plant going seven days per week. When

ens in 10 hours and take home five cents per duck.

they called it quits in ’87, other farms followed.

The human-interest angle was one “girl” who put a tag

“Ducks from the Midwest were cheaper,” he says.

with her name and address around a plucked duck’s

“The only thing we had going for us was the name,

neck and ended up with a proposal from a big city buy-

‘Long Island duck.’” With the duck farms went ancil-

er. The article states: “The majority of [the duck girls]

lary businesses. There was a plant in Speonk on North

have rosy cheeks, bright eyes, and that beauty which is

Phillips Avenue that cleaned and baled feathers for

an accompaniment to perfect health. A few of them

sale, says Wilcox. One customer was an industry in

are really lovely; and if rumor can be trusted, the Long

Quogue that made feather pillows. The Quogue His-

Island swains consider the duck girls as perfect ducks

torical Society loaned Westhampton a pillowcase for

in the most endearing sense of the word.”

the exhibit. It wasn’t long before someone viewed the piece and told of having family who worked there.

So there once was romance in the duck business. There were entire communities united by the sound,

“We believe this is the first time anyone has ever

smell and grace of the flocks, there were cooperatives

put together an exhibit about the history of duck

that relied on each other to keep their businesses go-

farming on Long Island,” says Bob Murray, presi-

ing and there were duck girls. David Wilcox notes

dent of the Westhampton Historical Society. “What

that the Corwin family’s Crescent Duck Farm always

surprised me most is how much of the history of the

stayed out of these arrangements. “Maybe that’s why

farms is still out there in the dilapidated barns that

they’re still in business today.” •

74 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

“The majority of [the duck girls] have rosy cheeks, bright eyes, and that beauty which is an accompaniment to perfect health. A few of them are really lovely; and if rumor can be trusted, the Long Island swains consider the duck girls as perfect ducks in the most endearing sense of the word.”

Photograph: Randee Daddona

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What to Get at the Pork Store Pizza, fresh focaccia sandwiches and frozen raviolis beckon hordes to Hampton Bays. By Kelly Ann Smith • PHOTOGR APHS BY LINDSAY MORRIS

A life-size slice of pizza greets customers on the sidewalk in front of Scotto’s Italian Pork Store at 25 West Montauk Highway in Hampton Bays. Café tables and chairs are scattered outside as well as inside the small shop. Not surprisingly, the first thing that welcomes you as you enter is a hint of garlic and the aroma of freshly baked pizza dough. Many argue the slices are the best on the East End, but pizza is just the beginning. Scotto’s (not to be confused with any other Scotto’s on Long Island, and there are a few) is a one-stop shop for Italian specialties. Like most retail establishments on the East End, the summer and Christmastime are the busiest seasons, but don’t tell that to their lunchtime customers, who are patiently waiting on line on the early Fall day we visited. “Everything is homemade here,” said Simone Scotto standing behind the prepared-food counter. “Staples like cervelat, a sausage made with cheese and parsley, and sopressata, a dry, sweet or hot salami, up to the mozzarella and macaroni salad.” Scotto’s decor is old school, with baskets hanging from the ceiling and prosciutto hanging behind the pizzas put out for lunch. The cases are chock-full of pinwheel sausages, shell steak, rib-eye and skirt steak all resting in a “secret Italian marinade,” perfectly pounded and breaded chicken cutlets, plain and rolled and stuffed with ham and cheese and a dab of butter on top ready to slide into the oven. Simone and his sister, Rachele, grew up in Hampton Bays and opened the store 15 years ago, with plenty of experience. Their father, Tony, owned three shops: John’s Pizza in Hampton Bays, Piccola Capri in Westhampton and Sergio’s in Riverhead. “That’s all I ever wanted to do was to go to work with my Dad,” said Simone, who looks younger than his 40 years. Tony has been retired since 1990. He still makes almost daily trips to his children’s shop, albeit behind the scenes. While Simone is showing off Scotto’s portable pizza kitchen out back, Tony pulls up in his Cadillac. He gets out holding a large bouquet of freshly picked basil from his own garden. The scent hangs heavy in the still, hot air. “When did you come here from Naples?” Simone asked his father. In broken English, Tony said he made his way to Hampton Bays 43 years ago via Brooklyn. It wasn’t easy coming to America by ship in 1954, he wants us to know, before heading to the back door. The portable pizza oven is quite impressive. It is five years old but looks brand new with red and green letters on a white background and shiny, silver trim. “A lot of ideas pop into my head at night. When the economy went down, I tried to bring the business to the customer.” The box sits on a flatbed truck and can be transported to anyone’s home for any type of party. Simone was planning a huge block party in October, the third San Gennaro Feast of the Hamptons. “The event was put together for the community, as something to enjoy during the

edibleeastend.com 7 7

Tall and broad, she’s a tough nut to crack. She re-

Saturday and Sunday. It was crazy, completely nuts. I

fuses to say what Scotto’s uses as their steak marinade,

was expecting maybe 5,000 people. Everyone ran out of

and it’s doubtful that anyone would challenge her.

food. It was great.”

Rachele rolls her big brown eyes dramatically

All proceeds were due to go to Maureen’s Haven, a

when asked if the winters get slow. “Let’s just say, we

shelter to “protect and empower” the East End home-

have lots of lunch and dinner specials during winter;

less. The feast will include a classic car show, a parade

buy one get one half-off.”

and lots of vendors, with the entire community getting

Dishes such as veal Parmesan, manicotti, cheese tor-

involved. “We’ll be there with the pizza truck,” he said

tellini and eggplant rollatini, all made with fresh ricotta,

of the traditional Italian street fair.

are nestled into the cases while pizza bakes in the oven.

Simone looks at his watch and runs off, from the

Opposite the freshly prepared foods, more than 20

back to the basement to the kitchen. He moves so fast,

varieties of frozen raviolis, including “walnut and Gor-

it’s hard to keep up. Sister Rachele does a pretty good

gonzola” and “jalapeño and cheddar,” among the more

job of it. Their paths cross quickly as they trade after-

traditional, line a wall of freezers.

noon shifts. As they pass each other behind the counter, they speak to each other in Italian. “One of us is always here. If I’m not, he is,” Rachele said. 78 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

When asked where the frozen raviolis are made, Rachele will only divulge, “Our cousin has a factory up the island. I can’t tell you the name. It’s a family busi-

When asked where the frozen raviolis are made, Rachele will only divulge, “Our cousin has a factory up the island. I can’t tell you the name. It’s a family business.”

Photographs: Lindsay Morris

off-season. Twenty thousand people came through on

edibleeastend.com 79

wife wants me to bring home some sun-dried tomatoes.”

school. Simone won’t go any further on the raviolis. “My

“Roasted peppers and balsamic vinegar on that?”

father’s cousin,” he said. No matter. The panini and fo-

the woman at the counter questions. After a beat, he

caccia bread are made in-house. The Italian bread comes

repeated, “Roasted peppers, sure, why not?”

from Sullivan Street Bakery in New York City.

“There’s not a bad thing in the place. Everything is

Samples of calzones are offered on the counter by

beautiful,” said J. J. Cordano, another gray-haired Italian

the register, another calculated ploy to make you eat

said, glancing around the shop, “Look at that lasagna! It’s

and buy. On this particular day, it seems the stuffed

so unusual. It’s a tower, standing straight up five inches.”

meat pie is the best seller. Scotto’s customer base is old school, too, at least after Labor Day, and if the owners won’t talk to a nosey

“You know they’re related to Roseanna Scotto, the television anchor who owns Fresco by Scotto,” Cordano said, “but you’d have to ask them how.”

foodie, their customers have plenty to say. Thomas

Still, the popular ravioli remain mysterious, even if

Gabriele, a retired Suffolk County Corrections Offi-

there’s no doubt that customers buy them by the arm-

cer, wears jeans and a navy blue T-shirt with a blinged-

load. Questioned again about them, Simone reiterated

out cross on a bold chain.

that his father’s cousin makes them but said he is not

“I’m not much of a meat eater,” Gabriele said, “I live

related to any other Scottos. “They’re all in Italy.” •

in Bridgehampton and usually go to Panero’s for my sun-dried tomato and mozzarella sandwich,” he said,

Kelly Ann Smith lives in Springs between Gardiner’s

about to step up to place his sandwich order of the same.

Bay and Accabonac Harbor and has been writing

“When I’m in Hampton Bays, I always stop here. My 80 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Scotto’s customer base is old school, too, at least after Labor Day, and if the owners won’t talk to a nosey foodie, their customers have plenty to say. Thomas Gabriele, a retired Suffolk County Corrections Officer wears jeans and a navy blue T-shirt with a blinged-out cross on a bold chain.

about Bonac culture for 17 years.

Photographs: Lindsay Morris

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gone fishing

holy Mackerel

You’ve caught a mess of highly perishable fish. Now what? story and photographs by Paul Greenberg Starting in the dead of winter and continuing on until the early spring, the fishing boat captains of the New York Bight get the itch to head offshore and start looking for mackerel. But they might not find them. The National Marine Fisheries Service rates Atlantic mackerel stocks as “uncertain”— the unknowable condition of many fish that range over large areas. And the unknowable nature of these highly migratory half-pound to two-pound members of the tuna family is made even more unknowable as climate change shifts their travels. Mackerel’s annual swoop into our waters, once so predictable, is now a matter of speculation. In some parts of mackerel’s global range the uncertainty is so great as to prompt environmental organizations to reconsider whether there are really enough to go around anymore. In January the United Kingdom’s prestigious Marine Conservation Society removed mackerel from its list of environmentally suitable fish to eat. edibleeastend.com 83

Spanish speakers have a soft spot for cod. Greeks favor porgies. Mackerel, meanwhile, tend to attract Koreans, Slavs, Scandinavians and other peoples who know how to preserve the fish’s particularly tricky flesh. But on our side of the pond most sustainable sea-

much fouler problem. The fisheries division of the

food lists still keep mackerel on their green lists. And

United Nations notes that Atlantic mackerel “will de-

following their lead I still anxiously await the fish’s ar-

velop off odors after 1–2 days, will be soft and spoiling

rival in our waters, trolling the online fishing forums

rapidly after 3 days, and will be putrid after 5–6 days.”

we anglers frequent when cabin fever hits. “Anybody

As the Brooklyn VI rounded the jetty at Breezy Point

find the macks yet?” goes the typical subject heading of

and broke southeast toward the grounds, I found my-

a thread on the fishing site noreast.com. Then follow-

self trying to come up with a game plan to avoid pu-

ing the opening post there is usually a completely sub-

tridity at all costs.

jective and not-altogether-fact-based disquisition as to

After about two hours’ steam, the boat slowed

which boat—the Brooklyn VI out of Sheepshead Bay,

and began circling over what all hoped (feared?)

the Golden Eagle out of Belmar, the Superhawk from

would be a big school. Here’s where the dangerous part

Freeport—is the best at finding mackerel when the

started. Mackerel fishing requires a multi-hook setup

mackerel get tough.

known as a “Christmas tree rig” tied to the end of your

My own subjective prejudice (and the proximity

pole—three or four brightly colored teaser lures fol-

of a D train stop) makes me partial to the Brooklyn

lowed by a half-pound chunk of silver metal called a

VI, and it was to Sheepshead Bay that I headed in the

“diamond jig.” (The whole thing is not anywhere near

winter of 2012 to see if I could get into some macks.

as big as a Christmas tree, but to a mackerel it’s just as

Arriving at the docks off Emmons Avenue, I saw a siz-

appealing!) Certain anglers push the Christmas tree

able crowd already staking out their claims along the

rig into outright paganism by adding four, five, even

rails. A sign in Korean hung from the Brooklyn’s bow

10 additional lures. In the frenzy of a big school, a pair

that I’m pretty sure said “Absolutely Fricking Awe-

of sunglasses is a good idea. It’s all fun and games until

some Mackerel Fishing, Daily, 7:00 AM.”

you get a Christmas tree in your eye.

Each species of fish brings the allegiance of particu-

And on this trip as soon as the opening horn blew,

lar nations. Spanish speakers have a soft spot for cod.

the trees were flying. I lowered my own rig a few feet

Greeks favor porgies. Mackerel, meanwhile, tend to at-

into the water and immediately boom, boom, two fish

tract Koreans, Slavs, Scandinavians and other peoples

on. They were small, “tinker”-size fish, but since they

who know how to preserve the fish’s particularly tricky

were the opening salvo and mackerel can vanish as

flesh. When I finally secured my spot on the rail it was

quickly as they appear, I kept them. On the next drop

therefore fitting that two young Korean men were rig-

boom boom boom. Two fish of the “medium” sort and

ging up to my right while, to my left, an underpaid Bul-

one a “jumbo” nearly two pounds. A third drop boom

garian hotel clerk prepared a massive cooler for what

boom boom boom—but with a completely different

was clearly intended to be a subsistence outing. I, mean-

fight. I reeled in to find a full load of herring on my

while, had a modest ice chest. I have in the past brought

Christmas tree.

one ill-fated trip failed to find fish, it was so humiliating dragging an empty cooler as big as a coffin off the boat

“What do I do with these?” I asked the Bulgarian to my left. “Eat them.”

that I vowed never to bring it again. And herein is the main problem with mackerel

Five hours later when the final horn blew, I stared

fishing: On the one hand you have the anxiety that

down at the carnage in a kind of panic. I had about

you might not catch anything at all and throw 50

50 pounds of fish on my hands, at least 100 mackerel

good bucks of your food budget down the drain. On

and 50 herring, and they would all go bad extremely

the other, you might hit the mother lode and face a

soon unless I dealt with them properly. I had bled the

84 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Photograph: Paul Greenberg

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A sign in Korean hung from the bow that I’m pretty sure said “Absolutely Fricking Awesome Mackerel Fishing, Daily, 7:00 AM.”

me as we took up our positions at the filleting table. “You take the fish, you take vinegar, salt, water and some spices. You put the fish in this and you wait. In three days—perfect.” “But what about the bones?” I asked, knowing full well that mackerel, like all the tunas, have a line of pin bones running through the center of their fillets and that herring were even bonier. “What bones? No bones.” “Yes, there are bones!” “No, no bones. These bones, these little ones, in the vinegar, all of that, how do you say? Disappear.” Later on when I read up on fish pickling online, it turned out the Bulgarian was right. In a mixture of salt and vinegar all those little pin bones in mackerel and herring do indeed dissolve. Fish pickling, it turns out, isn’t just about avoiding putrefaction. As to the Far Eastern side of the rotting mackerel equation, when I asked the Koreans what they did with their mackerel, the language barrier barred all hopes of my determining what I knew was a wellestablished Asian method of pickling. “Sushi! sushi!” the two men told me when I asked for cooking tips. And so it was to that method that I turned when I came to my kitchen. After lugging my stinking cooler through the subway and arriving exhausted back in Manhattan, still

“It’s very simple,” the Bulgarian hotel clerk said to me as we took up our positions at the filleting table. “You take the fish, you take vinegar, salt, water and some spices. You put the fish in this and you wait. In three days—perfect.”

fish I’d caught by pulling out a gill raker upon capture

feeling the ghost of a gentle ocean roll under my feet, I

and had put them immediately into ice, so I had prob-

set about parsing my catch to make a kind of descend-

ably bought myself an extra day. But I knew I would

ing ladder of mackerel consumption from super fresh

need more time if I was really going to eat through all

to super preserved.

this fish and live up to my reputation as a “sustainable”

To begin with I took out the “jumbo” mackerel fil-

seafood writer. Looking to my left and to my right at

lets and did them as sushi. The first step was to remove

Bulgaria and Korea respectively, I decided to employ

the clear epithelial skin on the fillets by taking the tail

the methodology of East and Far East to try to make

end of each fillet with one hand and placing a knife at a

the most of my macks.

45-degree angle between skin and meat. A gentle rock-

“It’s very simple,” the Bulgarian hotel clerk said to 86 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

ing of the fillet, right and left, will pull the knife just un-

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Fish pickling, it turns out, isn’t just about avoiding putrification. der the meat. A “V” cut into the center of the fillet will remove most of the pin bones. All of these jumbo fillets I then wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and put them in the fridge. These would last a day or two and would be excellent, almost tuna-quality sushi. Then I turned to pickling. After scanning through a few recipes online, I settled on a great concoction called “glassblower’s herring” that worked equally well for mackerel. Knowing that the smaller fish would be best for pickling (since if I were to remove the pin bones from the smaller fillets there wouldn’t be much fish left), I put them to one side and prepared the ingredients. With the “glassblower’s” recipe the fish are first brined for 24 hours in a simple salt water. Then they are drained and put in a vinegar solution with red onion and lemon peel that makes a very aesthetically pleasing alternative to the usual sad, gray, Soviet-looking pickled product. All told, these pickled fish in their jars will last about a All in all the whole process—fishing, sushi-ing,

But even all this pickling couldn’t dispatch with

brining, brathering, pickling and gravlaxing—took

the vast amount of fish I’d acquired aboard the Brook-

up about a week of my life and produced meals that

lyn VI, and I also knew that my long-suffering partner

lasted the better part of two months. Were I a Neo-

and our son would have a limit on how much pickled

lithic caveman, this equation would have seemed pret-

fish they could cram down their collective gullets. It’s

ty much the standard business of survival, and indeed

then that I turned back to the very useful Web site

a certain primitive deadening of the thought process

noreast.com and asked members in the mackerel fo-

took over as I slipped the last few fillets into jars.

rum for their thoughts on preserving alternatives.

Looking at them all stacked up in the cupboard

“I make something called ‘brathering’ from an

I felt both pride and exhaustion and a little bit of dis-

old German recipe of my grandmother’s,” one angler

gust. Over the next months I would eat it all. Every

wrote. The recipe was simple: Coat the fillets in flour,

last salted, pickled, brathered, sushied frozen chunk of

salt and pepper; fry lightly; then cover in a vinegar-

it. And now, a year later, as I scan the fishing reports

sugar-salt-spice brine for four days. Like the pickled

and see that the mackerel run of 2013 is not shaping

fish, the brathered version lasts about a month and is

up very well, that they may not show up at all this year,

particularly good served with sour cream.

I find myself both saddened and relieved. A mess of

The Noreasters had still more suggestions.

mackerel is both a blessing and a curse. •

Another angler (“I was on the Brooklyn VI last Friday as well!”) suggested mackerel gravlax: layer fil-

Paul Greenberg is the author of the James Beard-

lets with a mix of sugar, salt, caraway and dill, wrap

award winning New York Times bestseller Four Fish.

with Saran wrap, compress with a weight and refriger-

He fishes in the northeast throughout the year but in

ate for two days. Pumpernickel bread and a good beer

winter he wouldn’t kick a nice warm Florida grouper

were suggested as side dishes.

charter out of bed.

88 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Race against rot. The author had 50 pounds of fish to brine and brather. Fish pickling, he learned, isn’t just about avoiding putrification.

Photograph: Paul Greenberg

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DEPARTMENT OF MOVEMENTS

The Occasional Vegetarian A former ad man in Bridgehampton crafts the soft sell for eating less meat. By Geraldine Pluenneke • PHOTOGR APHS BY LINDSAY MORRIS “He’s very charismatic. He’s a persuasive dude. He’s one of these guys who speaks softly so you’re inclined to lean in and listen,” says Jason Weiner, chef of Bridgehampton’s Almond Restaurant. He’s speaking of Sid Lerner, the marketing force behind Meatless Mondays. Lerner has quietly and successfully been persuading eaters across America and overseas to skip meat on Monday for their own health and the planet’s. He estimates there are now tens of thousands of schools, restaurants and food-service companies promoting Meatless Monday around the world, including in Japan, Kenya and Denmark, with growth attributable to social media and word of mouth. Not to mention millions of households around the world doing the same. A recent survey, says Lerner, indicated that “half the country is aware of the campaign” and that nearly one in five Americans participates in Meatless Monday on an occasional basis. “A recent study showed American meat consumption has dropped some 5 percent edibleeastend.com 91

92 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

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in the past ten years, and our campaign has been cited

his 14 U.S. restaurants in 2010; the grilled portobello

as one of the many factors behind that.”

entrée at the Birreria atop Eataly is a Meatless Mon-

One gastronomic payoff: Food writers, bloggers and

day–inspired option. At Michelin-starred Dovetail,

chefs are delivering a harvest of Meatless Monday recipes

John Frazer, who added Meatless Mondays in 2011,

that explore the kind of ethnic flavors Lerner happens

also runs a nightly $85 vegetable tasting menu and

to love. “The timing is right,” says Weiner whose own

is set to open a vegetable-oriented restaurant this

Meatless Monday menus have been pulling in increasing

spring in the hip setting of André Balazs’s the Stan-

customers in the past year. A decade ago, Weiner tried a

dard, East Village, hotel.

vegetarian menu; it folded due to a lack of customer inter-

Like so many prime movers in the food world,

est. In March, Weiner’s restaurant in Manhattan added

Lerner was born loving to eat. As a blond Jewish kid

Meatless Monday. It didn’t hurt that Lerner and his wife,

whose immigrant family kept a kosher table, he sold

Helaine, who have been summering in the Hamptons

salami he didn’t eat to three generations of Italians on

since the early 1960s and who bought a house in Bridge-

Saturdays in his family’s grocery store. He went on to

hampton 1994, are Almond regulars.

carve out a major 30-year career with several top ad-

Customer interest in vegetables is like a new day

vertising agencies before founding his own firm. Now

for chefs—Weiner says it “gets his juices going”—with

he focuses his “Mad Men” marketing expertise on the

roots and greens getting treatments once reserved for

health implications of eating less meat, and the result-

sauces for meats. On the table at Almond one Monday

ing campaign has turned into a movement.

was an appetizer of a whole cauliflower roasted to a deep

“Sid is an amazing guy,” says Marion Nestle,

golden brown accented with sage, capers and currants,

professor of food studies at New York University

served with a salad of warm orange and red beets, the

and an astute observer of the national food scene

deep, sweet-tart play of flavors built from pistachios,

on her blog FoodPolitics.com, in an e-mail. “Meat-

pomegranate seeds, smoked feta and herbs. This was

less Monday was a brilliant idea for helping people

followed by worth-the-trip goat cheese ravioli and a

think about the balance of meat and plant foods in

crostata of blue oyster mushrooms, roasted Brussels

daily diets. It’s simple, understandable and effec-

sprouts and cipollini onions. It’s a new chapter in eating.

tive, and that’s why so many places are doing it. Not

Mario Batali added Meatless Monday items to

many people can say that they started a movement edibleeastend.com 95

was marketing them. “Why not?” he questioned as he

way, that’s just what he did.”

learned that a 15 percent decrease in meat consump-

It all began in 2003 at a think session at the Johns

tion—three meals a week—might pull many eaters

Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health, where

into safe territory. “Would you care to take this on?”

doctors, epidemiologists and sustainability experts

he was asked.

wrestled with the excess fat and cholesterol that were

“I can’t think of any other business where you

making American diets so life-threatening. Lerner

spend all of your time doing something and don’t

had just been put on the cholesterol-lowering drug

have anyone out there to promote it or sell it,” he

Lipitor. He learned that research studies with solid

frowns. “That’s what public health [was] all about.”

evidence linking soaring deaths from heart disease,

Since that invitation, he has devoted his ex-

stroke and diabetes to fat and cholesterol sat gather-

pertise as a marketer—who once inspired a nation

ing dust in university research departments. No one

to sip Maxwell House instant coffee, reach for

96 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Gone viral: The Meatless Mondays campaign estimates that half the country is aware of the campaign and nearly one in five regularly participates in a Meatless Monday, often at restaurants like Gurney’s in Montauk. American meat eating has dropped 5 percent in the past ten years, and the Meatless campaign has been cited as a factor behind that.

Photograph: Lindsay Morris

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Lerner learned that research studies with solid evidence linking soaring deaths from heart disease, stroke and diabetes to fat and cholesterol sat gathering dust in university research departments. No one was marketing them.

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disease, stroke and diabetes in 2003, it was

and try beers and scores of other products—

not added to campaign promotions until

to tackling neglected areas of public heath.

solid evidence emerged firmly linking can-

“We’ve never had so much to eat, so many

cer with diet.

times a day, in so many places and at such an

“We did not create anything that’s not

unbelievably low cost compared to total dol-

already there,” says Lerner. “We’re just brand-

lars spent; it’s self-inflicted to a large extent…

ing and packaging stuff that’s out there.” To-

suicide eating,” he says.

day a mixed bag of interests, including vegans

Working with Johns Hopkins he

and vegetarians, are gathering under Lerner’s

launched nonprofit Meatless Mondays, a

Meatless Monday umbrella to send out a pri-

name from food rationing days in World

mary message: Cutting out meat even one day

Wars I and II. He cut out eating meat himself

a week can heal you and the land. The cam-

completely at first. But as a savvy ad man he

paign turned to the press and blogosphere to

reflected, “Early on, we didn’t want support

convince listeners that Monday food could

of vegetarians, to get chalked off as ‘Oh, it’s

taste as good, if not better, than a charbroiled

a vegan thing, a veggie thing, a tree-hugger

steak or fried chicken.

thing.’ We didn’t want to talk to five percent

Chef Batali, who advocates Meatless

of the population in a country of 350 million.”

Monday benefits on the popular TV show

So from the start Meatless Mondays took a

The Chew, wrote in an e-mail, “The fact is,

broad-based aim at colleges, companies and

most people in the U.S. could benefit from

communities.

exercising a little moderation when it comes

The next year, Lerner created the Monday

“It’s one of those things that’s so obvious,”

to address exercise and smoking-cessation,

Almond’s Weiner mused. “Why didn’t we

and later kids’ cooking and caregiving. It also

think of this before? But maybe it took some-

works with Columbia University’s Mailman

body with Lerner’s background and his ability

School of Public Health and his alma mater,

to sell stuff to make sense to a wide swath of

the University of Syracuse, which now has a

chefs and consumers and producers.”

Lerner Center for Public Health to which he and his wife, Helaine, have given support.

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SportimeNY.com/Amagansett 98 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

to eating meat.”

Campaigns, a nonprofit umbrella corporation

In 2009, the idea of skipping meat on Mondays grew legs. That year, Paul McCart-

Public health had been an ignored

ney launched Meat-Free Monday in the UK,

orphan in the advertising world. Lerner

and 20 other countries added their version of

tracked down research reports languishing

meatless Mondays without the campaign’s in-

in university closets and uncovered other

stigation. The Philippines launched theirs in

peer-reviewed research with useful data.

2011, and Israel last year.

But even though cancer was one of the four

Oprah added Meatless Monday choices

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For kindred souls hooked on garlic, here is Helaine Lerner’s garlic salad recipe to dress farm stand lettuces.

“Take 4 to 6 large garlic cloves peeled and cut in quarters and place in a mini food processor with ¼ tsp coarse sea salt (3 or 4 shakes) and ¼ tsp cracked black pepper (3 or 4 shakes). Pulse a few times till garlic is in approximately 1/8-inch pieces. Remove from processor and add extra-virgin Spanish olive oil. If you want to use to put on fish or bread, use less oil; for salad, use more. You have to use your judgment and your tolerance for garlic as to quantities of ingredients.” television lexicon. It won vegan-cookbook

load. Lerner talks of the campaign’s tie-in

author Kathy Freston’s praise. Food chains,

with C-CAP, the Culinary Arts Program,

like the 411-unit Moe’s Southwest Grill,

which works with underserved high school

bought the meatless deal. Meatless Mon-

students in seven cities.

day hubs have begun in Aspen, Colorado,

During a recent TV interview, Lerner

Loudon, Virginia, and the North Carolina

recalled his favorite food memory. “Did I

Triangle, and city councils in San Francisco

talk about an amazing pasta in an elegant

and Los Angeles have espoused it. Sodexo,

restaurant in Rome?” he chuckled. “No.”

an international institutional food service

Instead he remembered the flavor of the rye

company, extended its 2011 introduction of

bread his Hungarian-born mother charred

Meatless Monday options (to 900 hospitals

over an open flame, rubbed like sandpaper

nationwide) to more than 2,000 corporate

with garlic, slathered with butter then put in

and government clients in North America,

a brown paper bag and tossed out the win-

including Toyota, Northern Trust Bank

dow to her son playing in the snow. “I love

and the U.S. Department of the Interior.

gnocchi, pesto sauce, potato pancakes, all

In 2009, the blogosphere and press be-

those non-meat side dishes of other coun-

gan a drumbeat of stories that continues

tries, cuisines which use meat as a condi-

today on Meatless Mondays from the Huff-

ment.” He talks so enthusiastically about

ington Post to the Washington Post and Bon

the skewers of grilled seitan marinated with

Appétit. For example, Apartment Therapy’s

chimichurri sauce at Manhattan’s vegan

theKitchn.com has just reviewed Kyle

restaurant Candle 79 that I had to try it. It

Press’s new and beautifully illustrated U.S.

was excellent, a measure of today’s new veg-

edition of The Meat-Free Monday Kitchen

etable kitchen. And as Lerner said, ”You

with a foreword by Paul McCartney that

think you’re eating a beautiful meat.” Today

captures the bolder and more varied flavors

he does eat chicken several times a month as

of the new vegetarian kitchen. (A few years

well as fish and is looking forward to week-

back, McCartney, who has had a home in

ends in the Hamptons and its bounty from

Amagansett, was spotted wearing a T-shirt

the sea and farm stands.

from Vickie’s Veggies, a popular hamlet vegetable stand on Route 27. The shirt read, “I’m not Vickie.”)

NOT JUST -FOR-

PANCAKES The next time you’re creative in the kitchen, grab for a bottle of New York Maple.

“What is your favorite food?” I ask. “I love garlic,” he sighs, ”My wife makes a fantastic garlic salad. She got the recipe 15

Lerner’s love of food clearly informs the

years ago from a soul food restaurant. I can’t

campaign. Meatless Monday’s Web site is

wait until we get here Friday night and have

crammed with scores of recipes from blog-

a garlic salad.” •

gers, columnists and food writers aimed at individuals and restaurant chefs. There are

Geraldine Pluenneke writes from Montauk

e-books of chili and burger recipes to down-

where she is completing a book about flavor.

Visit nysmaple.com to purchase.

edibleeastend.com 101

edible

ANYWHERE YOU WANT TO READ IT. Read the latest issue of Edible East End—and all back issues!—on our apps for iPhone, iPad, Kindle and Android devices. Search for “Edible East End” in iTunes or your local app store.

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advertisers directory All listings with this logo participated in this year's Eat Drink Local week. RESTAURANTS The 1770 House Restaurant & Inn Enjoy chef Michael Rozzi’s refined contemporary American cooking upstairs and his more casual traditional pub fare in the downstairs tavern. Both venues have dis tinctive atmospheres and the same high standard of quality and service. 143 Main St., East Hampton, 631.324.1770, 1770house.com 18 Bay Restaurant A chef-owned and -operated restaurant serving a 4-course Italian-inspired chef’s menu that is a direct reflection of the local markets. 23 North Ferry Rd., Shelter Island, 631.749.0053, 18bayrestaurant.com Almond A critic ally ac claimed Hamp tons institution with a market-driven menu and ar tisanally focused ethos. $28 prix fixe available year-round. “Best Dessert in the Hamptons” —Wine Spectator. Open nightly from 5:30pm and for weekend brunch starting at 11:30. One Ocean Rd. Bridgehampton; 6 31.5 3 7.5 6 6 5; almondrestaurant .com A Touch of Venice Proudly serving the North Fork for over 25 years, A Touch of Venice prepares fresh local cuisine with Italian soul. Featuring an extensive wine list specializing in local and Italian wines, a full bar with small-plate menu and happy hour specials, a private room available for all occasions, plus a special chef’s family-st yle menu for small groups, and patio dining. 28350 Main Rd., Cutchogue. 631.298.5851, touchofvenice.com Babette’s Babette’s mostly organic menu features world flavors and local produce, vegetarian/vegan cuisine and organic grassfed meats, in a casualchic atmosphere with cool jazz. Serving breakfast until 4 p.m., lunch and dinner, and offering an organic juice bar, organic wines and full liquor bar. 66 Newtown Ln., East Hampton, 631.329.5377, babettesrestaurant.com. Bay Burger This Sag Harbor burger joint serves their own freshly ground beef on a homemade brioche-style bun, as well as homemade ice cream (available in Hamptons specialty shops as Joe & Liza’s Ice Cream) and their amazing local fish burger. 1742 Sag Harbor Tpk., Sag Harbor, 631.899.3915, bayburger.com Beacon Restaurant Waterfront dining with groovy sunsets, Beacon serves solid American fare in the comfort of a great bar and leather banquettes. Available for private functions. 8 W. Water St., Sag Harbor, 725.7088 COWFISH Cowfish offers the best views and blues. Come by land or sea. Our menu is crafted with the freshest local ingredients with a focus on seafood, steaks and rotisserie meats that will leave you with a lasting impression. We also cater to suit your special occasion. 285 E. Montauk Hwy, Hampton Bays, cowfishrestaurant.com, 631.594.3868 East By Northeast Overlooking Montauk’s Fort Pond, East By Northeast serves Zagat-rated cuisine, influenced by the Far East and the Northeast. Enjoy breathtaking sunset views, an elegant lounge and live music every weekend. 51 Edgemere St., Montauk, 631.668.2872, eastbynortheast.com

Fresno Restaurant Ser ving regional American cuisine nightly, year-round, Fresno boasts a zinc-top bar, warm lighting and patio seating in season. Prix-fixe menu available. 8 Fresno Pl., East Hampton, 324.8700 The Frisky Oyster Chef/owner Robert Beaver offers imaginative cuisine in the sophisticated, metropolitan atmosphere craved by locals and visitors for years. His menu changes daily to showcase the most exceptional, local ingredients from Pipes Cove, KK’s, Sep’s and Satur Farms to name a few. The local and international wine list is personally selected to complement the current menu. Dinner is available in their stylish dining room or at the buzzing bar. DJ Frisky turns up the beat as the energy level rises after 9 p.m. 27 Front St., Greenport, 631.477.4265, thefriskyoyster.com Foody’s Bet ter food for the entire family. Cooking from scratch and hand-selecting farm-fresh produce, enjoy wood-grilled meats and veggies, house-made mozzarella, handstretched thin crust pizza and abundant local seafood and veggies. Catering available. 760 Montauk Hwy., Water Mill, 726.FOOD Jamesport Manor Inn Experience North Fork histor y and unprecedented local cuisine in the magnificently reconstructed 1850’s Gothic Revival mansion, featuring an extensive list of carefully selected wines, as well as a local artist art gallery. Private dining rooms and catering available. 370 Manor Ln., Jamesport, 631.722.0500, jamesportmanor.com Harvest on Fort Pond One of Montauk’s top Zagat-rated restaurants offers outdoor dining in a working vegetable and herb garden, and sunset views over Fort Pond. Executive chef Jake Williams creates family-style Italian cuisine, inspired by fresh Montauk seafood and homegrown produce. 11 S. Emery St., Montauk, 631.668.5574, harvestfortpond.com La Fondita La Fondita, “little kitchen,” serves tacos, posole rojo, homemade salsas, sopes, tostadas and other dishes reminiscent of the street food found all over Mexico. A fun and casual atmosphere, offering takeout and seating on picnic tables overlooking the pond. 74 Montauk Hwy., Amaganset t, 267.8800, lafondita.net The Little Kitchen Located just outside Sag Harbor, this country restaurant features East End seafood, wines, produce, fruit, vegetables and herbs from the restaurant’s own garden. 1615 Sag Harbor-Bridgehampton Tpk., Sag Harbor, 725.1045, eatshampton.com Lobster Roll Northside The critically acclaimed country version of the famed Hampton’s seafooder (LUNCH) operated by the originator! A “must do” dining experience while on the North Fork! 631.369.3039; LobsterRoll.com Luce & Hawkins at Jedediah Hawkins Inn This historic Jamespor t inn and restaurant of fers warm ser vice and a unique “ear th to table” dining experience from acclaimed chef Keith Luce. T he casual Luce’s Landing menu is a per fect entr y point to discovering the flavors of the North Fork. 400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport, 631.722.2900, jedediahhawkinsinn.com

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GOURMET-TO-GO PREPARED FOOD MARKET

EAT WELL AND HEALTHY

BREAKFAST . LUNCH . DINNER ENTERTAINING HORS D’OEUVRES . ENTREES BAKED GOODS . DESSERTS SALADS . SANDWICHES JUICES . SMOOTHIES LOCALLY SOURCED INGREDIENTS RETAIL . WHOLESALE

66 newtown lane east hampton, n. y. 631.329.3993 www.easthamptongourmetfood.com CELEBRATING OUR 15TH YEAR !

Nick & Toni’s A forerunner to the East End’s current restaurant community, Nick & Toni’s is reminiscent of a Tuscan farmhouse. The Mediterranean- and rustic Italian-influenced seasonal menus feature local seafood, produce and the harvest from the restaurant’s own organic garden. 136 N. Main St., East Hampton, 631.324.3550, nickandtonis.com

Scrimshaw This restaurant’s historic waterfront buildings, with panoramic views, open-air dining and drinks on the dock, reflect Greenport’s whaling history while its cuisine reflects modern tastes—a blending of classic techniques with Asian and global influences. Preston’s Wharf, 102 Main St., Greenport, 631.477.8882, scrimshawrestaurant.com

Noah’s Restaurant This Greenport restaurant offers a range of small plates with inspired takes on traditional seafood dishes, with locallysourced ingredients. Featuring the only raw bar on the North Fork, with local and international oysters, as well as wines available in 3or 6-ounce pours. 136 Front St., Greenport, 631.477.6720, chefnoahs.com

Seaside Grill This seafood grill features happy hour specials, Mon–Thurs, 4–7 (buy one, get one; appetizer & drink specials). Live music is available on weekends. 451 E. Main St. (Behind Hyatt Place East End & Resort Marina), Riverhead, 631.208.9200, x133, hyattplaceeastend.com/seaside-gril

North Fork Oyster Company North Fork Oyster Company serves creative cuisine featuring the freshest local produce and seafood from waters surrounding it on the East End of Long Island. Be sure to contact us when looking for a place to host your private event. 3 0 0 Main S t . (Sterling Sq.) Greenport; 631.477.6840; northforkoystercompany.com The North Fork Table & Inn Gerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming provide progressive American menus committed to the highest standard of culinary excellence. Understated elegance replaces utility in each room in the tradition of the finest European and American country inns. 57225 Main Rd., Southold, 765.0177, northforktableandinn.com Pierre’s Pierre’s is the place for traditional French bistro fare. Serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, with a nice variety of pastries for dessert. Pierre’s recently opened a gourmet market next door with gelato, prepared foods, coffee and more. 2468 Main Street, Bridgehampton, 631.537.5110 Plaza Café Come visit the place Newsday critic Peter Gionatti calls “The Best Seafood House on Long Island. Period.  ½” Now celebrating 16 seasons as Southampton’s highestrated restaurant (Zagat Survey). 61 Hill St., Southampton, 631. 283.9323, plazacafe.us Race Lane Fresh, local and seasonal are the keywords at Race Lane, located in the heart of East Hampton village, where diners can enjoy oysters by the fireplace or champagne in the lush garden. 31 Race Lane, East Hampton, (631) 324-5022 racelanerestaurant.com Red Bar Brasserie French-inspired A merican cuisine and an award-winning wine list presented by a professional and friendly staf f. S ophis t ica t ed and welcoming . O f fseason prix fixe menu. 210 Hampton Rd., Southampton, 631.283.0704 Rowdy Hall English pub and French bistro-style cuisine. An Arts-and-Crafts-inspired restaurant, with beautiful copper-topped bar and soothing fireplace. According to local lore, churchgoing locals found the establishment still full of revelers on Sunday mornings and declared it a “rowdy hall.” A gathering place for locals and visitors alike. 10 Main St., East Hampton, 631.324.8555, rowdyhall.com RUMBA A unique combination of island-inspired food, handcrafted rum specialties, waterfront dining and people happy to be of service, Rumba brings you the feeling of an island getaway. Voted best drinks, seafood and caterer in the Hamptons by Dan’s Paper. 43 Canoe Place Rd., Hampton Bays, rumbarumbar.com, 631.594.3544

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The Sea Grille at Gurney’s Inn Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the renowned Sea Grille reflects Montauk’s fishing legacy offering morning-caught fish, locally harvested shellfish, farmers organic produce and regional specialties. Spa guests choose from world-class menus featuring preparations of the freshest ingredients. 290 Old Montauk Hwy., Montauk, 631.668.2660, gurneysinn.com Soundview Restaurant The view doesn’t get more spectacular than it does at this restaurant, with it’s glassenclosed dining areas overlooking the Long Island Sound on the North Fork of Long Island. Soundview Restaurant serves up dishes using locally grown produce and fresh seafood from the Long Island Sound, Peconic Bay and Atlantic Ocean. 58775 Route 48 Greenport, 631 477-0666,soundviewrestaurant.com Town Line BBQ Texas-style on Montauk Highway. East Enders looking for beef and pork ribs, burnt end sandwiches, pickles and cornbread will enjoy the stripped-down decor and menu straight out of the Barbecue Belt. 3593 Townline Rd. (and Montauk Hwy.), Sagaponack, 537.2271, townlinebbq.com FARMS Balsam Farms Specializing in growing high-quality produce and cut flowers. Find these and other gourmet items at our farm stand: Corner of Town and Windmill Lns., Amagansett. June–Nov. balsamfarms.com Cornell Oysters This family-run oyster farm cultures the Atlantic or East Coast oyster (Crassostrea virginica), a young, salty and sweet oyster with a smooth and creamy finish. The oyster farm is located between the North Fork and Hamptons in Hog Neck Bay in Southold. All oysters are taken directly from the bay the day of delivery. Open year-round. New retail customers welcome. 516.971.7254; tom@ cornelloysters.com; cornelloysters.com Fairview Farm at Mecox This family-run farm bordering Mecox Bay specializes in beautiful herbs, fruit and vegetables, one-of-a-kind bunches of cut flowers, Mecox Bay Dairy cheeses, Berkshire pigs and fresh pastured chicken and duck eggs. The famous 8-acre corn maze is open Labor Day through Nov. 8. Farm stand at 19 Horsemill Ln., Bridgehampton, 631.537.1445, cornfieldmaze.com The Farm A family-owned and -operated organic (NOFA Farmer’s Pledge) farm using biodynamic practices, KK’s the Farm offers in-season heirloom tomatoes, greens, garlic, heirloom beans, beets, peppers and other veggies and berries. Gourmet CSA: pay for only what you order and buy weekly, no weekly obligation when you are away. Farm Stand: Thurs–Mon 9–5. 59945 Main Rd (Rte 25), Southold, khaspel@irahaspel.com, kkthefarm.com, 516.398.8731

Garden of Eve Organic Farm Market & Garden Center This Riverhead farm offers a large selection of organic vegetable & herb plants, annuals and perennials, as well as their own organic heirloom vegetables, cut flowers, and freerange pastured eggs, on site from April 1 until Thanksgiving. And at farmers markets in Westhampton Beach, Mt. Sinai, and Williamsburg, Brooklyn, as well as through CSAs on the farm, across Long Island, in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens. 4 5 5 8 Sound Ave. (at Northville Tpk.), Riverhead, 631.722.8777, gardenofevefarm.com Golden Earthworm This charming farm stand is stocked with over 80 different varieties of vegetables, fruits, berries, herbs and fresh-picked flowers. U-Pick Organic Strawberries in June and a new U-Pick Herb Cutting Garden! CSA program runs June–Nov. with over 20 pickup locations in Suffolk, Nassau and Queens Counties. They look forward to welcoming you all into their growing farm community! 652 Peconic Bay Blvd., Jamesport, 631.722.3302, goldenearthworm.com Green Thumb Organic Farm Farmed by the Halsey family since the 1640s, this 100-acre property is the oldest organic farm in NYS, and is biodynamic, too. The roadside farm stand offers over 300 varieties of vegetables, fruit, herbs, flowers and seedlings, and other products made by local artisans. Weekend pony rides and fall farm tours. Montauk Hwy., Water Mill, 631.726.1900

EAT DRINK LOCAL 2013

Montauk Farmers Market Village Green, Center of Town; Thurs. 9am– 1pm, June 21–Oct 11 Route 27 Farmers Market East Hampton American Legion Post 419, 15 M o n t auk H w y a t A b r ah am’s P a t h, Amagansett; Weds. 2–6pm, June 6–Oct 31 Sag Harbor Farmers Market Bay and Burke Sts, in front of the Breakwater Yacht Club; Sat. 9am–1pm, May 19–Oct 27 Southampton Farmers Market 25 Jobs Ln, west-side grounds of Parrish Art Museum; Sun. 9am–1pm, June 3–Oct 7 Springs Farmers Market Ashwagh Hall, East Hampton; Sat. 9am–1pm, May 26–Oct 27 Westhampton Beach Farmers Market 85 Mill Rd, Westhampton Beach; Sat. 9am– 1pm, May 5–Nov 17

manhattan PreSentS tHe 5tH AnnUAL

coffee roasters Hampton Coffee Company A Hamptons classic since 1994, this awardwinning small-batch hand-roasted artisan cof fee roaster has espresso bar & café locations in Water Mill, Southampton and Westhampton Beach, and a Mobile Unitmenus that brings bar •Espresso Prix-fixe at their 100sespresso of right to you. Locations are open year-round partner restaurants featuring and feature homemade bakery, breakfast, lunch desser t. crowd-sourced Kid- and pet-friendly ourand seasonal, wit h ou tdoor seating. 6 3 1.7 2 6 .C O F E , ingredients of the week. hamptoncoffeecompany.com

ALL WEEK LONG, ENJOY

FOODS • GOURMET Discounts at partner Cavaniola’s wineries,Kitchen breweries, bakers, Pike Farms Churning out everything from smoked fish cheesemongers and other This one-stop farm stand features strawber- pate to potato chips to soups and salads, this ries, raspberries, early greenhouse tomatoes, shop business partners. next to Cavaniola’s Gourmet (cheese) and

field tomatoes and famous sweet corn—as well as fruits, granola, flowers, pies and artisanal breads. Wholesale available. Sagg WILL RUN FROM Main St., Sagaponack, 631.537.5854

Cavaniola’s Cellar (wine) offers a range of fresh-

and specialty produce including heirloom toma-

Bring in your dish for them to fill with your favorite menu item, ready to serve! Pick up a meal for yourself, your loved ones, friends and family. 50 Sagg Main St, Sagaponack, ALMOND 631.537.0555, landfcookshop.com

ny’s best beer event

•made, And tasting events at Brookready-to-eat delectables, as well as an extensive catering menu. 89 Division St., Sag lyn Brewery, Greenmarkets, Harbor, 631.725.8100, cavaniola.com Whole Foods Market, and Sang Lee22–29, Farms Loaves and Fishes JUNE TO otherfamily-owned destinations Sang Lee’s farmer markets, CSA, retail farm stand Thismany very special and -operated & nursery feature overOFF 100 varieties of seasonal takeout HELP KICK shop prepares foods daily on-site. throughout theallregion.

THE GROWING toes, multicolor vegetables, baby salad greens and Asian greens. The newly certified organic SEASON. Sang Lee Kitchen has developed a delicious and diverse line food products as well as fresh veg-

Edible Manhattan, etable juices and salads. CSA, classes, events and tours! April–Nov; Brooklyn and East25180 EndCounty Rd. 48, Peconic; 631.734.7001, sangleefarms.com collaborate on a week Quail Hill Farm One ofbrings the original CSAs in the country with that together over 200 members enjoying organic produce partners from theQuail Hill also proand field-grown flowers, vides produce to a chain. local school, food pantries, entire food a farmers market and local restaurants. Only proven sustainable farming techniques are used. Synthetic insecticides, herbicides, fungicides and fertilizers are avoided. Deep Ln. and Side Hill Ln., Amagansett, 283.3195, peconiclandtrust.org FARMERS MARKETS East End Farmers Market managers have joined together to create a Facebook page: East End Farmers Markets and a blog spot: e a s t e n d f ar m e r s m ar k e t s . blo g s p o t .c o m to help get the word out about market locations, times open, etc. For more information on EEFM contact Ana Nieto at ana@ turtleshellhealth.com. East Hampton Farmers Market 136 North Main St, Nick and Toni’s parking lot; Fri. 9am–1pm, May 25–Sept 28 CHARITABLE PARTNERS Greenport Farmers Market United Methodist Church, 621 Main St; Sat. 9am–1pm, May 19–Oct 13 Hayground School Farmers Market 151 Mitchell Lane, Bridgehampton; Fri. 3–6:30pm, May 25–August 31

FEATURING:

BRIDGEHAMPTON A Taste of the North Fork Homegrown flavors, freshness, sophistiBAY BURGER cated taste. Enjoy the preserves, mustards, vinegars,NICK sauces,&spreads—all TONI’S made from naturally grown, organic and local fruits, (EAST HAMPTON) flowers and herbs. Available at the Sag Harbor Farmers Market and at their store in SQUIRETOWN Peconic. Custom-made gift baskets, corpoRESTAURANT & available. BAR 2885 rate gifts and event favors Peconic Ln., Peconic, 631.734.6100, atasteofthenorthfork com

feAtUring: ALisOn eiGHteen ALMOnD brOOKLyn breWery DiZZy’s CLUb COCA-COLA/bAMCAfe

Vines & Branches Located in historic Greenport Village and in its new location in Westhampton Beach, Vines & Branches is an olive oil~balsamic vinegars tasting room featuring 45 varieties of premium extra-virgin olive oils, balsamic vinegars, specialty food products, sea salts, spices and olive oil–based skin-care products. In Greenport visit Vines & Branches bis tro c afé. 4 7 7 Main S t , Greenpor t V illage, 6 31. 47 7.6 8 0 0. 8 Moniebogue Ln, Westhampton Beach, 631.288.2100, vinesandbranches.net

fOrt DeFiAnCe fOrt renO GreenPOrt HArBOr L & W Oyster CO. LUKe’s LObSter

GROCERY STORES & markets Amagansett Farmers Market This local landmark, now run by Eli Zabar is part farmer’s market, part gourmet food store and all about Eli’s committment to local, sustainable and delicious. Don’t miss the Amaganset t loaf fresh out of the oven. 367 Main St., Amagansett, 631.267.3894

AnD MAny MOre...

Learn more at ediblemanhattan.com/events

For more information and tickets, visit

edibleeastend.com

edibleeastend.com 105

Bayview Farms & Market Family-owned and -operated for seven generations, this market provides customers with over 50 varieties of summer favorite fruits and vegetables. Also available: fresh Long Island Duck, local jams, local honey and more! Open April–Dec 31. 891 Main Rd., Aquebogue, 631.722.3077 Fork and Anchor Well-stocked with basic and gourmet provisions alike, this general store and community hub offers an assortment of produce, specialty sandwiches, take-out salads, sundries, craft beer, L.I. Coffee Roasters coffee, Magic Fountain ice cream, and a growing selection of locally sourced products. Picnic boxes for a day on the boat or at the wineries available. Summer CSA in collaboration with Deep Roots Farm in Orient; sign up at store. 8955 Main Rd., E. Marion, 631.477.3277, forkandanchor.com Hayground Market Family-owned and -operated for seven generations, this market provides customers with over 50 varieties of summer favorite fruits and vegetables, plus fresh fruit pies, local jams and honey. Open May –Thanksgiving. 1616 Montauk H w y, Bridgehampton, 631.537.1676 Whole Foods Market The world’s leading organic and natural foods supermarket. With new stores in Manhasset and Jericho, Whole Foods Market carries a growing selection of LI-grown produce, seafood, and other edibles from small food makers. A one-stop shop for natural meats, healthy baked goods, organic produce, and nontoxic beauty and cleaning products. 2101 Northern Blvd., Manhasset, 516.869.8900; 429 North Bwy., Jericho, 516.932.1733; 12 0 New Moriches Rd, L ake Grove, 631.588.1466; wholefoodsmarket.com BAKERIES Breadzilla Serving scones, muffins, hand-rolled bagels, granola and other breakfast fare baked each morning. Ever y thing made from scratch, including soups, salads, sandwiches, pizzas and pies featuring local produce and seafood. Specialty meats, pastries, birthday and wedding cakes made to order. 84 Wainscott NW Rd., off Montauk Hwy., Wainscott, 537.0955, breadzilla.com artisanal FOODS Bees’ Needs These East End honeys, produced with smallscale, noninvasive practices that promote bees’ health, are raw and unfiltered, multifloral blends that provide customers with an expressive range of artisanal honeys. CSA shares available. Products sold at Sag Harbor farmers market, The Greenthumb farmstand, Quail Hill Farm, Juicy Naam and Marder’s. 631.702.5657, mgwoltz@optonline.net Catapano Dairy Farm Long Island’s premier goat dairy is a familyoperated farm specializing in handcrafted goat’s milk cheeses and pure goat’s milk skin care products. 33705 North Rd., Peconic, 631.765.8042, catapanodairyfarm.com Holy Schmitts Holy Schmitts is a high-quality vegetable processor that uses only local and the freshest ingredients available, most of which are homegrown on the family farm in Riverhead. 100% natural, with no preservatives, and guaranteed to be fresh. Now in their third year in business, they can always be found at Schmitts farm stand on Sound Ave. 2633 Roanoke Ave, Riverhead, 631.278.6397, holyschmitts.com

Mecox Dairy In a converted 19th-century potato barn, Arthur Ludlow and family turn out awardwinning cheeses from their small herd of Jersey cows that graze near Mecox Bay. Available at the Milk Pail, Schiavoni’s IGA and the Village Cheese in Mattituck, and from May to Nov. at farmers markets and farm stands from Westhampton to Montauk. Always available at the Dairy, please call ahead. 631.537.0335; mecoxbaydairy.com New York State Maple Producer’s Association We represent over 500 farmers and crafts people who har vest maple sap to make pure maple syrup. Find a source of pure NY maple products by contacting us at 315.877.5795, info@nysmaple.com, nysmaple.com Organic Valley This farmer-owned co-op produces milk, cheese, butter, eggs, juice, soy beverages, produce and meats—all organic. Available at major grocers and health food stores. 1 Organic Way, L a Farge, W I 5 4 6 3 9, 888.444.MILK, organicvalley.coop

“Cutting Edge Organic Cuisine” -NY Times

Organic Juice Bar

Wines i Spirits

Breakfast i Lunch i Dinner 66 Newtown Lane, East Hampton, NY 631.329.5377

INNS AND B&B’S The Baker House 1650 T his Hamptons gem with a distinctive European feel has received the highest praise from critics and guests alike. Luxury amenities include flat-screen TVs, wireless Internet, three swimming pools and the Baker Spa. Guest suites are available in the newly restored Baker Carriage House. 181 Main St., East Hampton, 631.324.4081, bakerhouse1650.com Bridgehampton Inn This family-owned and -operated 6-room historic inn is walking distance to all town shopping and restaurants. All rooms have private baths. Beach passes available. Call to schedule your private event or join a cooking class. 2266 Main St, Bridgehampton, 631.537.3660, bridgehamptoninn.com Jedediah Hawkins Inn W in n e r o f t h e p r e s t i gio u s N e w Yo r k Historic Preservation Award and listed in the National Register of Historic Houses, this meticulously restored Captain’s mansion offers luxury accommodations , warm service and a unique “earth to table” dining experience from chef-proprietor Keith Luce. 4 0 0 S . Jamespor t Ave. , Jamespor t , 631.722.2900, jedediahhawkinsinn.com The Mill House Inn A gracious inn in the heart of historic East Hampton Village with beautifully appointed rooms, spectacular child and dog-friendly suites, and “the best break fast in the Hamptons.” T heir Graybarn Cot t age is ideal for small weddings, conferences and retreats. Named in the “Top 50 Small Hotels” by the Zagat US Hotel Guide. 31 N. Main St., East Hampton, 631.324.9766, millhouseinn.com NFBBA Rest Assured—Select an inspected member inn approved by the North Fork B&B Assn. (NFBBA); for 20 years the only organization for B&B’s on Long Island recognized by NYS. 877.883.9333; information@nfbba.org The North Fork Table & Inn Gerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming provide progressive American menus committed to the highest standard of culinary excellence. Understated elegance replaces utility in each room in the tradition of the finest European and American country inns. 5 7 2 2 5 Main Rd., Southold, 7 6 5 .017 7, northforktableandinn.com

NEW Craft Beer Garden! Every Saturday & Sunday at noon.

CRAFT BEER IN THE HEART OF WINE COUNTRY. Enjoy local and imported micro-brews, pub grub menu, music and more–all in a beautiful outdoor setting. Craft Beer Garden • In the Hamlet of Baiting Hollow

2218 Sound Ave • Calverton, NY • (631) 727-8994 • cooperageinn.com edibleeastend.com 107

CHEESE SHOPS

outside waterfront bar & grill!

live

us + happm y houic rs!

great food, local wines, spirits & beer

located behind

EAST END & RESORT MARINA

Riverhead, NY

631.208.9200, ext. 133 HyattPlaceEastEnd.com/seaside-grill seasonal hours: 11am - 9pm (friday & saturday to 10pm) (weather permitting)

SSGrill Edible EastEnd June2013.indd 1

Cavaniola’s Gourmet Cheese Shop Family-owned and -run cheese shop offering over 150 types of local, domestic and imported cheeses. Paninis, soups and fondue to go, as well as a beautiful selection of olive oils, balsamics, olives, pâtés, fresh breads, pastries and more. 89B Division St., Sag Harbor, 725.0095 Lucy’s Whey An exciting new shop offering a large, carefully chosen selection of unique American artisanal cheeses, as well as other handcrafted American products, including salamis, chutneys, oils, vinegars, rubs and crostini. 80 N. Main St., East Hampton, 324.4428, lucyswhey.com SEAFOOD SHOPS

Hampton Seafood Company T his gour me t s e a f o o d m ar ke t c ar r ie s the freshest locally caught seafood and offers the culinary creations of chef Peter 5/7/13 2:22 PM Ambrose. I t ’s one-s top shopping for t as t y t reat s, boun t i f ul seafood and delicious meals. We also provide clambakes to-go and of f-site catering. 17 Race Ln., East Hampton, 631.324.9224, hamptonseafoodcompany.com Stuart’s Seafood Market The oldest fish market on the East End, baymen bring the catch of the day directly from their boats to Stuart’s door. Specializing in dayboat-fresh local seafood as well as hardshell Nova Scotia lobsters of all sizes, available live or cooked to order along with a wide selection of gourmet provisions. Full-service clambakes and catering. Voted Best Clambake Caterer in the Dan’s Paper’s Readers’ Poll. 41 Oak L n . , A maganse t t , 2 6 7. 6 7 0 0 , stuartsseafood.com BREWERIES Greenport Harbor Brewery Located at the ver y end of Long Island, Greenport Harbor Brewery specializes in making fresh small batch craft ale, with the mission to constantly challenge people’s notion of what a beer can be. Visit them at the brewery, online or at the bars, restaurants, and beverage centers (growlers) who carry them. 234 Carpenter St., Greenport, 631.477.6681, harborbrewing.com Montauk Brewing Company Proud makers of Long Island’s easternmost beer, the guys of Montauk Brewing Company pour their signature brews in an art gallery / tap room located in downtown Montauk. Their flagship Driftwood Ale is available in local restaurants throughout the East End. 62 S. Erie Ave., Montauk, 631.668.8471 Southampton Publick House The East End’s first microbrewery restaurant offers Long Island’s finest casual dining alongside handcrafted ales and lagers, which are also available at specialty beer bars and restaurants throughout New England. 4 0 Bowden Sq., Southampton, 28 3.28 0 0, publick.com WINERIES Bedell Cellars and Corey Creek Vineyards Founded in 1980, Bedell North Fork is recognized as a leader in Long Island wine growing. With 78 planted acres, the winery produces award-winning merlots, Bordeaux-st yle blends and a special Artist Series under the Bedell Cellars label, and a range of smallbatch varietal wines under the Corey Creek Vineyards label. Bedell Cellars, 36225 Main Rd. (Rte. 25), Cutchogue, 734.7537; Corey Creek Vineyards, Main Rd., Southold, 765.4168, bedellcellars.com

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Channing Daughters Winery A small, artisanal, quality-driven winery specializing in the production of focused, individual lots of wine made from an array of grape varieties. Employing traditional winemaking methods and experimentation and creativity to achieve varietal and multivarietal wines of class and distinction. 1927 Scuttlehole Rd., Bridgehampton, 537.7224, channingdaughters.com Jamesport Vineyards A father-son collaboration that began in 1981, Jamesport Vineyards’ 60 acres constitute one of the North Fork’s oldest vineyards. All of their wines are produced using only their highquality fruit. A large grassy backyard is available for musical events, private parties and weddings. Main Rd., Rte. 25, Jamesport, 631.722.5256, jamesportwines.com Lenz Founded in 1978, Lenz is one of the oldest wineries on the East End. Owned and operated by Peter and Deborah Carroll, Lenz creates critically acclaimed chardonnays, gewürztraminers, merlots, cabernets and sparkling (méthode champenoise) wines. Main Rd./ Rte. 25, Peconic, 734.6010, lenzwine.com Macari Vineyards Macari vineyards has been known to sow wildflowers and release thousands of ladybugs in their largely organic approach to managing their 180 acres of vines. Sip wines at their tasting room or on their covered deck. Available for private parties, weddings and corporate events. 150 Bergen Ave., Mattituck; 24385 Rte. 25, Cutchogue, 298.0100, macariwines.com McCall Ranch This family ranch specializes in fine estate wines and grassfed organic cattle, and has been growing and selling pinot noir and merlot on Long Island’s North Fork for 14 years. A commitment to the preservation of local wild and agricultural land and to our environment in a broader view is integral to our mission. The tasting room is open 12.30–5.30 pm Thurs–Sun. 22600 Rte. 25 in Cutchogue. 631.734.5764 Osprey’s Dominion The 75-acre winery is the first on Long Island to contract for a wind turbine, with a ground breaking this past fall attended by executives from LIPA, Eastern Energy, the press, and local politicians, and an unveiling this coming spring. Visit their tasting room and see the future of energy in Long Island wine country. 44075 Main Rd., Peconic, 631.765.6188, ospreysdominion.com Palmer Vineyards Founded in 1923 on a rolling parcel of gravelly farmland on the North Fork of Long Island, Palmer Vineyards has become a significant part of the Long Island wine industry where “excellence is never an accident.” The tasting room is open year-round, regularly hosts music, and is available for special events. 5120 Sound Ave., Riverhead, 6 31.72 2. WINE (9463), palmervineyards.com. Paumanok Vineyards Founded in 1983, Paumanok is an estate winery dedicated to the production of premium vinifera wines. The Massouds grow chardonnay, chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, riesling, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot. 10 74 Main Rd., Aquebogue, 722.8800, paumanok.com Raphael Established in 1996, Raphael is dedicated to the production of Long Island merlot, and continues a centuries-old tradition of winemaking for the Petrocelli Family that incorporates both New World advances and Old World traditions to produce wine reflecting both the terroir and spirit of a great Bordeaux chateau. 39390 Main Rd., Peconic, 631.765.1100, raphaelwine.com

Sherwood House Vineyards Since l996, committed to the production of world-class wines using only estate-grown vinifera grapes. “There’s very little nature and man can do in true harmony,” says owner Dr. Charles Smithen. “A vineyard is one of those things.” 2600 Oregon Rd., Mattituck, 212.828.3426, sherwoodhousevineyards.com Shinn Estate Vineyards This Mattituck vineyard and winery believes that a sustainable approach to growing wine and natural techniques in the cellar result in wines that reflect both the land and the individual growing seasons. Their biologically intensive viticulture allows the vines to produce balanced and complex wines vintage after vintage. 2000 Oregon Rd. Mattituck, 631.804.0367, shinnestatevineyards.com Sparkling Pointe Sparkling Pointe’s award-winning sparkling wines are executed with artistry and finesse in the traditional French Méthode Champenoise. We like to call it “romance in a bottle.” 631.765.0200, sparklingpointe.com

Laurel Lake Vineyards 631.298.1420; llwines.com Lieb Family Cellars 631.298.1942; liebcellars.com Loughlin Vineyards 631.589.0027; loughlinvineyard.com Macari Vineyards & Winery 631.734.7070; macariwines.com Martha Clara Vineyards 631.298.0075; marthaclaravineyards.com Mattebella Vineyards 1.888.628.8323; mattebellavineyards.com McCall Vineyards 404.274.2809; mccallwines.com The Old Field Vineyards 631.765.0004; theoldfield.com Onabay Vineyards 917.715.0605; onabayvineyards.com One Woman Wines & Vineyards 631.765.1200 onewomanwines.com

Wölffer Estate Vineyard Founded in 1987, Wölffer Estate has become a leader in the wine industry. The East Coast climate, similar to Bordeaux, combined with the terroir and the maritime influence, make the Hamptons an outstanding region for growing wines. Surrounded by 55 acres of rolling hills planted with vines, the neatly trellised vineyard provides a magnificent setting for wine tastings and social events. 139 Sagg Rd., Sagaponack, 631.537.5106, wolffer.com

Osprey’s Dominion Vineyards 631.765.6188; ospreysdominion.com

2012 Long Island Wine Council Members

Pugliese Vineyards 631.734.4057; pugliesevineyards.com

Anthony Nappa Wines 774-641-7488; winemaker-studio.com

Raphael 631.765.1100; raphaelwine.com

Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard 631.369.0100; baitinghollowfarmvineyard.com

Reilly Cellars 516.446.2902

Bedell Cellars 631.734.7537; bedellcellars.com

Roanoke Vineyards 631.727.4161; roanokevineyards.com

Bella Vita Vineyards 631.734.8282; bellavitavineyard.com

Sannino Bella Vita Vineyard 631-734-8282; sanninovineyard.com

Bouké 877.877.0527; boukewines.com

Scarola Vineyards 631.335.4199; scarolavineyards.com

Brooklyn Oenology 718.599.1259; brooklynoenology.com Castello di Borghese Vineyard & Winery 631.734.5111; borghesevineyard.com Channing Daughters Winery 631.537.7224; channingdaughters.com Clovis Point 631.722.4222; clovispointwines.com Comtesse Thérèse 631.871.9194; comtessetherese.com Corey Creek Vineyards 631.765.4168; coreycreek.com Croteaux Vineyard 631.765.6099; croteaux.com Diliberto Winery 631.722.3416; dilibertowinery.com Duck Walk Vineyards 631.726.7555; duckwalk.com Gramercy Vineyards 631.298.1213; gramercyvineyards.com The Grapes of Roth 631.725.7999; thegrapesofroth.com Harbes Family Vineyard 631.298.0700; harbesfamilyfarm.com Jamesport Vineyards 631.722.5256; jamesportwines.com Jason’s Vineyard 631.926.8486

Palmer Vineyards 631.722.9463; palmervineyards.com Peconic Bay Winery 631.734.7361; peconicbaywinery.com Pellegrini Vineyards 631.734.4111; pellegrinivineyards.com Pindar Vineyards 631.734.6200; pindar.net

Sherwood House Vineyards 631.779.2817; sherwoodhousevineyards.com Shinn Estate Vineyards 631.804.0367; shinnestatevineyards.com Sparkling Pointe 631.316.0530; sparklingpointe.com Suhru Wines 631.603.8127; suhruwines.com T’Jara Vineyard 631.298.1900 Waters Crest Winery 631.734.5065; waterscrestwinery.com Wölffer Estate Vineyard 631.537.5106; wolffer.com WINE SHOPS Cavaniola’s Cellar This wine shop in the historic Umbrella building offers a wide selection of limited-run Old World wines designed to go with the cheese and other offerings from Cavaniola’s Gourmet and Cavaniola’s Kitchen next door. 89 Division St., Sag Harbor, 631.725.2930, cavaniola.com Domaine Franey This East Hampton wine shop, run by the son of famed author and chef Pierre Franey, specializes in wines from Burgundy and caters to wine enthusiasts, including those looking for well-priced bottles or the perfect meal pairing. 459 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton, 631.324.0906, domainefraney.com

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Michael’s Wines & Spirits Lowest prices around! The knowledgeable staff will help you select from the most extensive inventor y of wines and champagnes on the East End, including the best selection of Long Island wines at competitive prices. Delivery available. 802 Main St., Riverhead, 631.727.7410 wine bars A Mano This osteria and wine bar in Mattituck features local farmers, cheesemakers, fishers and wineries, as well as Italian varietals from American and Italian wineries. 13550 Mai n R d , Ma t t i t uck , 6 3 1. 2 9 8 . 4 8 0 0 , amanorestaurant.com SPIRITS Eastport Liquor Just five miles west of Westhampton Beach on Montauk Highway, Eastport Liquor specializes in top-shelf single malts and smallbatch whiskeys. Also on offer are wines from around the world and Long Island and a large selection of liquors. Moderate pricing with some higher-priced vintage selections. Weekly in-store tasting Saturdays from 3–7pm. 15 Eastport Manor Rd., Eastport, 631.325.1388 ORGANIC FOOD STORES Provisions Natural Foods Market & Cafe Committed to serving healthy food, Provisions offers a snug retreat for a memorable organic lunch. Café is open for breakfast and lunch, serving chicken and veggie wraps, omelets, marinated brown rice, soups and homemade muffins and corn bread, a juice and smoothie bar, and a full line of “Earth Friendly” groceries, cosmetics, books, gifts and organic produce. Bay and Division St., Sag Harbor, 725.3636

“

natural products

Word of Mouth?

”

More than ever. WordHampton. Strategic and Creative Thinking Deep Media Relationships Social Media Savvy Client Partnering

www.wordhampton.com 631.329.0050

Shaklee For over 50 years, generations of families have counted on us to do what no other company can do quite like Shaklee—make products that are naturally safe AND proven effective. Every product that goes into every Shaklee bottle is designed to improve health, work without compromise and be gentle on the planet. 6 31.2 36.2670. greenmama@optonline. net. BeTheChange.MyShaklee.com cookware Loaves and Fishes Cookshop This family-owned and -operated cookware, kitchen and home shop offers fine tableware, barware, linens, cookbooks, domestic and imported gifts. Free cooking demonstrations every Sat noon–2pm. Cooking classes held weekly at the Bridgehampton Inn. Open daily 10am–5pm. 2422 Main St, Bridgehampton, 631.537.6066, landfcookshop.com Theaters The Suffolk Theater This 350-seat Art Deco theater is newly restored as a state-of-the-art, flexible performance space. Among the most beautiful venues on Long Island, the Suf folk T heater features A r t Deco bars and fabulous food by chef Tom Schaudel. The theater presents the best of comedy, broadway and music. “One of the top supper club experiences on Long Island” —Newsday. 118 East Main St., Riverhead, 631.727.4343, suffolktheater.com PUBLIC RELATIONS WordHampton Public Relations E s t a b lis h e d in 19 9 2 , a w a r d - w in nin g WordHampton represents signature hospitality, real estate and lifestyle businesses from the East End to New York City, building client reputations and revenues through strategic

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and creative thinking, deep media relationships, social media savvy and client partnering. 512 Three Mile Harbor Rd., East Hampton, 631.329.0050, wordhampton.com CATERERS and chefs Art of Eating This community-focused and charity-driven caterer and events planner has extensive connections with local farmers, fishers and food makers, and will help you invite guests with the confidence that they will thoroughly enjoy the food, set ting and entire event experience. 6 31. 2 6 7. 2411, hamptonsartofeating.com health care Dr Suzanne Kirby and Dr. Glenn Goodman Health Care Center offering gentle chiropractic care, nutrition, homeopathy, noninvasive acupuncture, cranial sacral therapy, massage, foot reflexology and yoga. 34 Bay St., Ste. 204, Sag Harbor. 631. 725.3398 REAL ESTATE Town And Country Real Estate Offering personalized service and boutique flexibility, Nicholas J. Planamento & Town And Country Real Estate focuses on establishing relationships through honesty and quality service to buyers and sellers. As a member of “Who’s Who in Luxury Real Estate,” Nicholas J. Planamento & Town And Country Real Estate enjoys a referral network with the finest brokers globally. 631.298.0600 or 631.948.0143, NPlanamento@1TownAndCountry.com LANDSCAPE DESIGN AND ENVIRONMENTAL SERVICES Barry Block Landscape Design & Contracting Inc. Award-winning, formally trained design/build firm providing landscape services from design concept to complete installation. All projects receive personal attention and unique designs to fit your lifestyle, while offering a variety of specialized solutions using ecologically sound and organic techniques. 631.874.3430, barryblock.com, info@barryblock.com Fort Pond Native Plants A local garden center with a mission to promote the use and appreciation of native plants for home landscapes. Employing organic maintenance products as well as sound environmental approaches. 26 S. Embassy St., Montauk, 631.668.6452, nativeplants.net Harmonia, Inc Founded by Roxine Brown in 2003, Harmonia seeks to create beautiful landscapes that feel at peace and in harmony with nature. Brown and her team of highly trained landscape specialists provide the fullsuite of services, from consultation to installation, emphasizing organic materials to maintain plant health and sustainability. harmoniainc.com. 141 Maple Ln., Bridgehampton, 631.537.9672 Marders For three decades this landscaping business cum garden emporium has catered to individual homeowner’s tastes, aesthetics and lifestyle. Using innovative techniques while implementing solid organic practices, these environmentally conscious experts also offer educational seminars open to the public. 120 Snake Hollow Road, Bridgehampton; 631.537.3700; marders.com

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aftertaste

Summer Sipper Wölffer Rosé comes of age.

by Gwendolen Groocock

Twenty-one years ago when Wölffer Rosé made its debut, Americans were still a little hesitant about drinking pink wine. It had a mixed identity: was it sweet? Was it really wine? Was it OK for boys to drink because, you know, pink is for girls. This had long ago been settled in Europe, where rosé is the wine of summer, the wine of the Riviera and a wine of sophistication usually made to be drunk young and fresh. Roman Roth, the German-born winemaker at Wölffer Estate in Sagaponack, knew this. He started bottling. The wine has now become so iconic, flowing into glasses on sunny decks overlooking the ocean, at hot restaurants, in backyards by the fire pit and at the beach, that New York City food bloggers refer to it as “Hamptons Kool-Aid.” Which is totally unfair; it has absolutely nothing in common with the powdered kid’s drink, apart from popularity. “We usually run out [all 11,600 cases] by early fall,” says Roth, who is also a partner in the winery. “We like to call it ‘Summer in a Glass.’ It’s nice to have such a loyal following.” This wine is a light, elegant blend of merlot and other grapes, and takes its cue from a style indigenous to Provence, in the south of France. But the terroir is all Long Island: the Bridgehampton loam soil and ocean breezes are suited to the crisp, acid-leaning style, says Roth. “Finding the right picking date is crucial in making a fresh and vibrant yet ripe rosé,” he says. Fortunately, he adds, all the grapes for the 2012 rosé were picked before Superstorm Sandy hit in late October. The wine is released each spring—just as Long Island wine drinkers are transitioning away from winter reds and creamy chardonnays—and sold in restaurants and wine shops all over Long Island and New York City. “Gotta have it,” says Debbie Gove, owner of Greenport Wines and Spirits in Greenport, who does a brisk trade in the busy season, when

The wine has now become so iconic, flowing into glasses on sunny decks overlooking the ocean, at hot restaurants, in backyards by the fire pit and at the beach, that New York City food bloggers refer to it as “Hamptons Kool-Aid.”

cated and can hold up well to food. It’s also poured by the glass in about

creamy yeast notes. The Fabiana Botrytis Rosé ($40) is another anniversary

25 East End establishments, including Salt, North Fork Table & Inn,

special; made the same way as sauternes but with merlot, it’s a lush dessert

Muse, Nick & Toni’s Phao, Cowfish, Tutto Il Giorno, Bobby Van’s and

wine. Lastly, there’s the Noblesse Oblige Rosé ($95 for the 2008 and $40 for

Sen, says national sales manager Peggy Lauber.

the 2009), a sparkling blend of pinot noir and chardonnay.

This year, Wölffer has four different bottlings. The 2012 Wölffer Estate

Something for everyone, and while tradition has it that rosés have

Rosé ($16) is the familiar classic. It’s mostly merlot, fermented in stainless

quite a following with the fairer sex, this is 2012 and “real men drink

steel and described as fruit-driven, with lively acidity and fresh minerality.

Wölffer Rosé,” says Roth. •

A special 25th anniversary release is the Grandioso Rosé 2012 (672 cases, $29), a blend of about half merlot and the balance cabernet franc and sau-

Gwendolen Groocock is the editor of the Greenport Guide, and writes

vignon and a bit of chardonnay. Barrel fermentation and lees stirring lend

about food, wine, travel and mommyhood from her home in Greenport.

112 edible EAST END LOW SUMMER ��

Photograph: Lindsay Morris

people are looking for Long Island wine that is refreshing yet sophisti-

Fresh produce, Baked Goods, Fish, Homemade Specialties

Round Swamp FaRm Farmers and Fisherman Feed us all

descendants of a 300-year-old farm who manage to keep faith with the land & sea and run a country market that meets modern demands.

184 Three mile Harbor Road, East Hampton 631.324.4438 open monday–Saturday 8–6pm, Sunday 8–2pm

Photography: Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company

For A World Too Full of Sameness® 120 Snake Hollow Road · Bridgehampton 631.537.3700 www.marders.com

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