Edible Houston Winter 2024

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PUBLISHER

Monique Threadgill monique@atxpublications.com

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/ CREATIVE DIRECTOR

This fall, I read two beautifully written and important books, The Light Eaters: How the Unseen World of Plant Intelligence Offers a New Understanding of Life on Earth by Zoë Schlanger and Becoming Earth: How Our Planet Came to Lif e by Ferris Jabr. Both explore recent scientific research that is revealing how complex, fragile and interdependent life on Earth is — from plants that are communicating with each other about common predators to the destruction of Amazonian rainforests affecting weather and farming in California. They both also acknowledge that we and our technologies and built environments aren’t separate from those ecosystems but intertwined with them — our houses are as much a part of nature as bird nests — making it clear that protecting and restoring these planet-wide systems is also protecting ourselves.

They are also important reminders that during these coming holidays when we are celebrating with our family and friends, we are celebrating how interconnected we are not just to them but to all the people and living creatures we share this Earth with, and the Earth itself.

In this issue, we delve into some of those important relationships. We’ll learn how commercial fishermen, government agencies and nonprofit organizations are working together to improve the health of Galveston Bay by restoring oyster reefs. We’ll examine how cooking connects us to other cultures, the seasons and ourselves, while learning about new ways to enjoy beets. We’ll explore how buying food is enmeshed with the lives and livelihoods of farmers and shopkeepers. And we’ll learn how some of those farms are connecting to their neighbors by providing produce and teaching about sustainable agriculture.

During this often busy holiday season, I hope you can slow down to celebrate, enjoy and strengthen the many connections that make our lives possible.

Happy reading, cooking and eating!

Ralph Yznaga ralph@atxpublications.com

EDITOR

David Leftwich

david@ediblehouston.com

COPY EDITOR

Claire Cella

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Stacey Ingram Kaleh

Ava Motes

MM Pack

Shubhra Ramineni

Pauline Stevens

Colin James Sturdevant

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Pauline Stevens

ADVERTISING SALES

Grace McCormick grace@atxpublications.com

DISTRIBUTION

Nathan Simmons tmem23@gmail.com

CONTACT US

5524 Bee Caves Rd., Ste. J-4 Austin, TX 78746 info@ediblehouston.com ediblehouston.com

Pass the Crown, Coffee Roasters

There is plenty of great locally roasted coffee in Houston, but the majestic coffee from two-year-old New Heights Coffee Roasters has taken the top spot in my kitchen, while its just-opened retail shop has become my new go-to for creative coffee drinks. Owner Charlie McIntyre, who has been roasting coffee and mixing drinks for six years, and his team are bringing a new level of innovation to the craft from bean to drink.

At home, I’m making my pour-overs with their La Nueva Montana from Fraijanes, Guatemala, with bursts of raspberry, plum and raw honey. It is one of several well-crafted roasts they offer, including an exceptional decaf, which is hard to find in Houston. Theirs, especially in an iced latte, hits like creamy dark chocolate.

At their shop in the Asch Building at 825 Studewood Street in the Heights, the team brings the inventiveness and dedication to seasonal coffee drinks that bars such as Anvil brought to cocktails. Try The Chantilly, cold brew topped with a medium-sweet whipped cream infused with cognac and a few flakes of black sea salt. It’s best to blend in the cream until the drink becomes uniformly beige — you’ll get hints of the fruity whipped cream balanced by the sharp notes from the coffee that remind of toast and buttery cream. It won’t disappoint. To learn more, visit @newheightscoffeeroasters on Instagram.

La Roja; The Red One

I’ve never encountered a bad taco, though I am sure they exist. However, I have tasted boring salsas. La Roja is not one of those. The bottle is what first caught my eye but more importantly, its taste set my heart and palate afire in a saintly blaze. It’s now my number one salsa. You, like me, may have seen this bottle of salsa at Antidote, a coffee house located at 729 Studewood Street. There’s a reason.

Pedro O. Perez, the artisan behind this red salsa, is also the chef and proprietor of Delicias Maya, the taco truck parked at Antidote Wednesday through Friday. I don’t know what goes in his small-batch salsa, but it makes me think of cream, chilis, salt, garlic and vinegar. Its sibling green salsa is also fabulous. I hear you can buy it directly from Delicias Maya when it’s at Antidote or Blackhole, its sister coffee shop in Montrose.

I can feel the decades of kitchen sorcery behind each bottle. Perez has worked in the restaurant industry for over 30 years and his breakfast tacos are a win-win if you happen to find his team slinging them. When I’m at home, I like to make quesadillas with Monterey jack cheese and flour tortillas that I top with eggs. Then bam! That bottle of red magic, La Roja, rains its savory sweet heat and makes my breakfast pop. I think they’ll make great stocking stuffers for the upcoming holiday season or a nice small gift for yourself. To keep up with Perez and his crew, follow them @deliciasmaya1 on Instagram. Olokoi!

One Saturday morning, I was making my rounds at the Memorial Villages Farmers Market in the August heat. Morning heat, but heat, nonetheless. I was looking for my friend LeeAnne Beckham Carlson, a fellow poet and writer, a goat farmer and cheesemaker at Swede Farm Dairy, and the market’s manager. When I found LeeAnne, I was turned toward a stall where owner and artisan Julie Funderburk, whose mother is from the Pacific island nation of Palau, was selling intriguing bottles labeled Olokoi.

What I thought was a traditional soy sauce turned out to be an umami-rich sauce married with citrus and spices. The salinity falls away at the first taste, and the notes of mature fruits and spices bloom, creating the perfect duet for various applications from dumpling dipping to enhancing a stew or soup. You’ll want to add this well-balanced sauce, inspired by Funderburk’s mom, to your kitchen arsenal. You can find the regular and spicy versions at Memorial Villages Farmers Market located at 10840 Beinhorn Road every Saturday or you can order it at olokoi.com.

. 100% Locally Raised and Fed in the Texas Hill Country

. 100% Black Angus

. 100% Locally Processed

. NO Antibiotics and NO Added Hormones

. Quarters, Halves and Griller Packages

WORDS BY COLIN JAMES STURDEVANT
Top Left: Photo by Colin James Sturdevant
Bottom Left: Photo by David Leftwich Bottom Right: Photo by David Leftwich
Colin James Sturdevant is a poet and writer from HTX. He is the founder of a budding nonprofit small press and lit organization called pass the salt presse. He enjoys the terroir of food
drink from the woodiness of the cutting board’s imprint in
roast to

POPULAR WEST AFRICAN EATERY OPENS

BRICK-AND-MORTAR

IN MONTROSE

Ope Amosu’s Golden Bowl at ChòpnBl

flavorful blend of grilled chicken; smoky, tomatoey jollof rice; black-eyed peas and coconut curry — has been one of my favorite Houston dishes since the first location opened in 2021 at the POST Market food hall. Earlier this year, Amosu, who was born in London to Nigerian parents and immigrated to Houston when he was three, earned a James Beard Semifinalist nod for Emerging Chef for his fastcasual approach to West African cuisine. Recently, he opened his first sit-down restaurant, the brickand-mortar ChòpnBlọk in Montrose, whose inviting and beautiful interior, created by Gin Design Group, is according to Amosu a “love letter to the African Diaspora.”

At this second location, Amosu has not only expanded his seating capacity, but also the menu, adding several new dishes including the Black Star Bowl. This stellar dish, which has rocketed to the top of my favorites list, combines perfectly cooked, spicy shrimp with Waakye fried rice, plantains, and a velvety yassa — a Senegalese curry made with caramelized onions, Dijon, lemon and chiles. The flavors, like the restaurant, are dynamic and warming, comforting yet modern. They paired perfectly with the refreshingly tangy yet earthy African hibiscus tea lemonade, which piqued my interest in the cocktails on the menu (it was an early lunch). But I will be back to try one at the full bar, which is new for this location. Amosu and his team have built on the success of their food hall eatery to create one of the best new restaurants in Houston.

Visit at 507 Westheimer Road | chopnblok.co, Instagram @chopnblok_

DUCK N BAO OPENS IN RICE VILLAGE

Too often we think that the most exciting restaurants are inside the Loop. Of course, we also know that many of Houston’s best and most interesting eateries are outside of 610. Grace and Leo Xia, who both emigrated from China as young adults, proved that (once again) when they opened the first location of Duck N Bao in Cypress in 2020. They quickly gained attention for serving one of the best Peking ducks in the Houston area. Luckily for those inside the Loop, they opened a second location on Memorial in 2021 and, earlier this year, opened a third in Rice Village.

In addition to a full range of entrées, such as the Peking duck and tea leaf smoked pork ribs, the eatery offers a tidy selection of excellent dim sum and dumplings. During a recent lunch at the Rice Village location, a fellow food writer commented that the shrimp and pork shumai were some of the best she’d had. I agree. Those succulent packets of pork and shrimp alone are worth a return trip. Next time, I’ll be pairing them with a couple of dishes I haven’t tried at this restaurant worthy of many visits.

Visit at 5215 Kelvin Drive | ducknbao.com

FAMOUS HOUSTON RESTAURANT FAMILY’S ELEGANT ODE TO SEAFOOD

The Pappas may be the most well-known restaurant family in Houston. In 1967, Jim Pappas and his brothers — the sons of a Greek immigrant and restaurateur — opened Dot Coffee Shop, which still serves up classic dinner fare. In 1976, Jim’s sons Chris, Harris and Greg opened The Strawberry Patch. Now, Pappas Restaurants operates over 100 restaurants throughout the country under recognizable brands such as Pappadeaux and Pappasito’s Cantina.

Last year, building on the fine-dining success of Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, they opened Little’s Oyster Bar, a high-end, chef-driven seafood restaurant (a first for Pappas) helmed by chef Jason Ryczek, who honed his skills at San Francisco seafood classics Waterbar and Farallon. His experience and talent shine in such dishes as Texas redfish with heirloom tomato sauce vierge — the best redfish I’ve eaten. Perfectly seasoned, the delicate flesh and crispy skin were akin to a wellsung aria. Which makes the refreshing bluefin tuna

crudo with pickled watermelon rind, peanuts and shiso a prelude worthy of Callas. Like the opera, Little’s is a great option for a special occasion or an indulgent splurge.

Visit at 3001 South Shepherd Drive littlesoysterbar.com

ONE OF HOUSTON’S BEST BREAKFAST SPOTS OPENS LOCATION IN THE HEIGHTS

After Sarah Lieberman opened the first Dandelion Cafe in 2016, it quickly became a go-to for anyone looking for good coffee and quality breakfast, brunch or lunch. Over the years, I’ve written several articles there while enjoying one of their well-executed flat whites and a spinach, potato and cheese breakfast taco. In 2018, executive chef JC Ricks, who would eventually become Lieberman’s business partner and husband, revamped the menu with dishes such as fluffy buttermilk pancakes, specials incorporating his Liberian heritage, and his signature chicken and waffles, which led to the couple competing on “Good Morning America” as one of the top breakfast joints in the country.

The duo has just opened a new location in the historic Heights Clock Tower building. The bright, airy space, accented with striking yellow walls, has plenty of seating and a dog-friendly patio. Like the Bellaire location, hours are 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sundays, and breakfast is served all day. For now, the Heights’ menu mirrors Bellaire’s, though some new sandwiches may be introduced at the Clock Tower. This casual breakfast and

lunch eatery is a welcome addition to a neighborhood with lots of great dinner options but not as many places offering the high-quality breakfast and lunch dishes Dandelion has become known for.

Visit at 611 West 22nd Street | dandelionhouston.com

A CHEF’S CHEF EXPLORES HIS HERITAGE

Gabriel Medina is a chef’s chef. Houston’s culinary pros praise his skills and seek out his food. When he launched Subó, his new Filipino food stand at the Urban Harvest

Farmers Market, on a hot Saturday morning in September, the long line was studded with area chefs willing to brave the heat and humidity to try Medina’s Filipino breakfast. A Filipino American born in Texas, Medina perfected his craft at Tokyo’s Narisawa, considered one of the world’s best restaurants, as well as at top Houston restaurants such as Kata Robata. In 2019, he opened Click Virtual Food Hall, a delivery-based restaurant that offered everything from pasta to sushi to Filipino staples such as kare kare. Medina’s well-executed meals were a bright spot for my family during the darkest days of the pandemic. But as the pandemic subsided, so did Click.

Now, Medina is focused on showcasing his Filipino heritage with Subò, which is named after a Tagalog word related to feeding those you love. Currently, Subò can be found most Saturday mornings at Urban Harvest. Ordering is a two-step process. First, you choose a base: short-grain white rice; garlic fried rice known as sinangag; or pandesal, a Filipino soft roll. Next, you pick a main: tocino, sweet pork belly; garlic beef ribeye called tapa; or gising gising, a stew made with local vegetables, coconut milk and chilis. Your breakfast choices are then served with an egg and a cold salad. So far, I’ve enjoyed the succulent tocino with the aromatic sinangag. But I’ll be back to try more and to see what other Filipino delicacies the talented Medina cooks up.

Visit at Urban Harvest Farmers Market

2752 Buffalo Speedway | Instagram @subo.htx

ETHIOPIAN-INSPIRED THIRD PLACE

OFFERS INSPIRED COFFEE

Ruby Amare and her mother Addis Debebe, who is from Ethiopia, have recently opened Kefita Coffee in the duo’s Wonderlikewander, a creative hub located in a former house in Third Ward/ Midtown. Rooted in Ethiopia, the birthplace of coffee, the shop and event space offers a full range of espresso drinks from cappuccinos to specialties like the Addis latte and the Abyssinia latte, as well as drip coffee and tea. They also offer a selection of breakfast tacos and sambusa, a stuffed East African pastry similar to a samosa. Recently, I enjoyed a perfect flat white and a vegan taco while reading in the sunny yet cozy space and was reminded of how important third places are to our creative cultures. I can’t wait to return to write, read and enjoy excellent coffee.

Visit at 2506 La Branch Street| Insta @kefita.coffee

Left: Black Star Bowl at ChòpnBlok
Right: Pork & Shrimp Shumai at Duck N Bao
Bottom: Red Fish at Little's Oyster Bar
Left Top: Honey Chicken Biscuit Special at Dandelion Cafe
Right Top: Subò's Filipino Breakfast
Right Bottom: Flat White at Kefita Coffee
David Leftwich is editor of Edible Houston and loves to cook with locally grown vegetables and hang out with his daughter, wife, dog, cat and a few too many books.

Toasting

Texas Wines

SUPPORT LOCAL GROWERS THIS HOLIDAY SEASON

As we gather around holiday tables, diving into delicious meals and compelling conversations, perhaps indulging in a few favorite traditions and recounting memories of past seasons, I find myself wanting to make everything last a bit longer. The hustle of holiday gatherings, often brimming with anticipation and preparation, can sometimes feel like a blur.

This season, I say let’s relish and recognize the beauty of it all. When my family and friends gather to celebrate, I plan to stretch the seconds and lose track of the clock, devices and other distractions. I want everyone to laugh and linger. One of my favorite ways to foster slowing down is by sharing a favorite bottle of wine, ideally one with a great story.

There’s no shortage of great stories when it comes to the bold ingenuity and unfettered resilience of those dedicated to making Texas wines. If I’ve learned anything in the years exploring Texas wineries and vineyards and interviewing the experts, it’s that the people behind the wines are motivated from deep within — driven by the pursuit of discovery, artistic expression, family tradition or all of the above. Each bottle of wine is more than a product, it’s a deeply personal and unique vision brought to life as the result of tireless labor. And it’s one that, fortunately for us, tastes delicious.

“The largest benefit to buying wine that is 100 percent Texas wine is you know where it’s coming from and it’s supporting our Texas farmers and wine producers,” says John J. Rivenburgh, winegrower, founder of Rivenburgh Wine Incubator and board president of Texas Wine Growers, a nonprofit consortium dedicated to promoting and protecting the integrity of Texas wine through education and policy advocacy.

The organization's work is paying off. According to the Texas Department of Agriculture, Texas is the fifth-largest wine-producing region in the U.S. and the Texas wine industry employs more than 141,000 workers. In addition, more than 500 wineries and 340 growers call Texas home and we have 9,300 acres of vineyards and counting. With roots dating back to the 1600s, Texas can also take pride in being one of the oldest wine-producing states in the U.S. There’s much to

explore and keep us excited. With eight distinct American Viticultural Areas or AVAs (with more pending formal designation) and the numerous grape varieties grown here, you are likely to find a perfect pairing that fits your meal and your personal tastes.

“I wish there was a way to capture the passion we all put into our products,” muses Rivenburgh. A longtime champion of Texas wine who takes pride in mentoring other growers and makers, Rivenburgh emphasizes the importance of relationships in the Texas wine industry and more broadly. “Wine for generations has been a tool to bring family, friends and colleagues together in celebration,” he says. “We all love wine. We all love what we do and our absolute passion is sharing.”

When we pour Texas wine for others, we’re expressing warm Texas hospitality and inviting our loved ones to share in something deep-rooted — the joy of connection and conversation. Wine is a drink to sip and savor. It’s also a fantastic conversation starter. Whether you know a lot or a little about wine, you can have fun observing variations in color, different notes on the nose and palate, the texture of the wine as it touches your tongue, and how it transforms in taste from start to finish. There are many aspects to explore and discuss. And, if you visit a Texas winery for a tasting or to enjoy a glass in the vineyards, you’re sure to have some great photos and anecdotes to accompany any bottle you bring home.

Finally, if you want to take your holiday meal to the next level, consider Texas wine and food pairings. Serve up dishes with locally sourced ingredients and extend the farm-to-table philosophy to what you drink as well! For me, nothing beats mourvèdre and Texas barbecue on a lovely winter evening outdoors or a New Year’s Eve celebration with local cheeses, local charcuterie and a great local sparkling wine.

If you’re not hosting or firing up the oven this season, Texas wine also makes a great gift or party contribution. A glass of wine can make any occasion special and nurture the practice of taking pleasure in the small moments — even if it just means curling up on the couch or next to the fireplace with a great book or magazine — so be sure to treat yourself and others!

WORDS BY STACEY INGRAM KALEH
Photo by Messina Hof

Toast with Texas Wines

Enjoy these Texas wines, and invite your friends, family and holiday guests to experience some of the best of what the Lone Star State has to offer! The wines on this list really shine in terms of embracing Texas’ terroir and set the bar high in terms of quality. Plus, they support local makers, growers and entrepreneurs, fuel the Texas economy, and move the dial toward increased sustainability. Find a selection in the Texas wine section at your neighborhood H-E-B or local wine retailer or purchase directly from the wineries (they’ll ship to you, too!).

Reds

Estate Souzão, Ab Astris

Ab Astris Estate Vineyard, Texas Hill Country

Double Barrel Tannat, Bending Branch Winery

Texas High Plains

Cuvée de L’Exposition Cabernet Sauvignon, Calais Winery

Narra Vineyards Clone 47, Texas High Plains

Estate Montepulciano, Hye Meadow Winery

Hye Meadow Estate Vineyard, Texas Hill Country

Tannat, Kerrville Hills Winery

Rustic Spur Vineyards, Texas Hill Country

Estate Aglianico, Kuhlman Cellars

Kuhlman Estate, Texas Hill Country

Estate Sagrantino, Messina Hof

Messina Hof Vineyards, Bryan

Malbec, Perissos Vineyards

Perissos Estate, Texas Hill Country

Spy Rock Touriga Nacional, Pontotoc Vineyard

Gillespie County

Tempranillo, Ron Yates

Friesen Vineyards, Texas High Plains

GSM, Salt Lick Cellars

Salt Lick Vineyards, Driftwood

Marselan, Sandy Road Vineyards

Sandy Road Vineyards Estate, Texas Hill Country

The Good Guy, Spicewood Vineyards

Texas Hill Country Estate blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon

Spicewood Vineyards, Spicewood

Syrah, Torr Na Lochs

Torr Na Lochs Estate, Burnet

Syrah, Westcave Cellars

Westcave Estate Vineyard, Texas Hill Country

Mourvèdre, William Chris Vineyards

La Pradera Vineyards, Texas High Plains

Sangiovese, Driftwood Estate Winery

Texas High Plains and Texas Hill Country

Rosés

Vin Gris Rosé, French Connection Wines

Texas High Plains

Belle Rosé, Hawk’s Shadow Winery

La Pradera Vineyards, Texas High Plains

Dandy Rosé, Wine for the People

Parr Vineyards, Texas Hill Country and La Pradera Vineyard, Texas High Plains

Whites & Sparkling

Viognier Reserve, Becker Vineyards

Six Harts Vineyards, Texas High Plains

Reserve Semillon, Bingham Family Vineyards

Bingham Family Vineyards, Texas High Plains

Vermentino, Rivenburgh Wine

Canted County Vineyards, Texas High Plains

Orange Muscat, Torr Na Lochs Texas High Plains

Roussanne, Uplift Vineyards

Uplift Vineyards, Burnet

Sparkling Pinot Meunier, Lost Draw

Texas High Plains

Sparkling Blanc du Bois, William Chris Vineyards

Fleming Farms Vineyard, Darst Ranch Vineyard, John Dale Vineyard, Texas Gulf Coast

Stacey Ingram Kaleh is a native of the Texas Hill Country. Born and raised in Austin, she lives in Spicewood with her husband, two young daughters and fluffy dog Zeus. She’s been exploring Texas wineries for more than a decade, enjoying great wine, stellar company and scenic views as she learns from local winemakers. Follow her wine adventures on Instagram @TXWineGirl.

Gift Guide

Cornucopia Popcorn

Popped locally in Austin, TX using Non-GMO corn, real cane sugar & a little love! Get 10% off using code Edible10 $25-$85 PopcornDelivery.com

The Fancy Marshmallow Co.

Indulge in a marshmallow wonderland this holiday season with The Fancy Marshmallow Co.! From delectable marshmallow treats to holiday-themed goodies, their locally made, gift-ready delights are sure to sweeten your celebrations. Gifts start at $10 thefancymarshmallowco.com

Houston Wine Merchant Your home for Exceptional Champagnes, Wines, and Specialty Spirits. 2646 South Shepherd 713-524-3397 houstonwines.com

1 00% locally raised and fed in the Texas Hill Country. Quarters and halves available. Perfect for sharing with family and friends. windybarbeef.com Shop these local gifts

For the Bees: A Handbook for Happy Beekeeping by Tara Dawn Chapman What to expect the first year of beekeeping and beyond.

Gift the Ultimate Foodie Experience with a Multi-Day Boot Camp or Single-Day Class at The Culinary Institute of America San Antonio

AA world-class culinary college in the heart of a culinary mecca and UNESCO-recognized Creative City of Gastronomy is a great recipe for fun, flavor, and feasting. Cook, learn, think, and eat like a chef under the guidance of the CIA’s expert chef-instructors. This is a gift your loved ones won’t forget! ciafoodies.com/tx-classes

$26.95 utexaspress.com/9781477329511 Araya Artisan Chocolate Gourmet Gift Boxes

Sumptuous gift boxes filled with single-origin chocolate pieces made right here in Texas and shipped nationwide. $30-$110 arayachocolate.com

Windy Bar Beef

Building Sanctuary

PROTECTING THE OYSTERS OF GALVESTON BAY

WORDS BY MM PACK

One cloudy day in September, a small group of people steadied themselves on The Sundowner, a Gulf oyster boat, as it rocked gently above an oyster bed a quarter-mile from the San Leon shoreline. In addition to Captain Humberto Jiron and Captain Gezim Halili of Prestige Oysters Inc., Kathy Sweezey from The Nature Conservancy and Madgellen Cleary of Texas Sea Grant, a program of Texas A&M University, were onboard to perform the quarterly monitoring of the undersea oyster culture in the 10-acre plot known as Rett Reef. The monitoring is part of an ongoing

collaborative project to restore this reef to a healthy, productive state and help increase the oyster population in Galveston Bay. Methodically following a grid pattern, Jiron and Halili raked up samples of oysters from each sector and assisted Sweezey and Cleary in measuring the water quality and counting and sizing live oysters and the oyster spat (larvae) attached to the shell and rock substrate on the seafloor. The samples are then returned to the water, and the recorded data is later analyzed to determine the reef’s restoration progress and help develop best practices for future projects. “The counting and sorting are the longest part of the process,” says Cleary.

For the past few decades, including the summer of 2024, the oysters and oyster fishing folk of Galveston Bay have taken a beating. Major weather events such as Hurricanes Ike, Harvey and Beryl have disrupted the critical balance of fresh and salt waters that oysters need to thrive. A series of extreme storms, tidal surges and torrential freshwater runoff have disturbed the soft bay floor, repeatedly covering oyster reefs with silty mud that smothers the oysters and greatly diminishing their reproduction. Consequently, the oyster fishing industry has suffered from a serious decline in the population of these popular bivalves, and the state has closed most publicly owned oyster reefs to harvesting to give the oysters time to regenerate. This collaboration between Prestige and these two conservation groups reflects their mutual goal of fostering sustainable oyster culture and clean water quality in Galveston Bay. Oysters serve a fundamental role in coastal ecosystems: filtering their surrounding waters, providing habitat for other marine life and reducing coastal erosion. “All of us want the same thing — a healthy bay,” says Sweezey.

First conceived in 2016, Rett Reef is a passion project for Lisa Halili — Gezim’s aunt, co-owner of Prestige Oysters and founder of the non-profit San Leon Oyster Fest. Her aim is to rebuild the former San Leon Marina Reef that was destroyed by Hurricane Ike in 2008.

With help from Texas Sea Grant and The Nature Conservancy, the San Leon Oyster Fest organization leased the area of the defunct reef from the state and reestablished it as a protected reef to serve as a non-harvestable oyster nursery that will boost repopulation. In honor of another of her philanthropic interests, Lisa renamed the site Rett Reef to help increase public awareness of Rett Syndrome, a debilitating genetic disorder that affects young children’s brain development.

To jumpstart the reef’s regeneration process, Pier 6 Seafood & Oyster House in San Leon — a restaurant owned by Lisa’s son Raz Halili — collected and cured 1,300 tons of oyster shells beginning in 2020. In April 2024, this mountain of recycled shells was loaded by Prestige equipment onto the company’s boats, ferried out to the reef site and spread over the sea floor using an onboard water cannon. This shell substrate allows free-floating oyster spat to permanently attach, grow and reproduce. Oysters not harvested grow bigger and produce more spat, which ride the currents and attach to other reef locations, further increasing Galveston Bay’s oyster populations.

“It’s expensive to set up and maintain an oyster reef,” says Lisa. “This sanctuary project — I call it a spat bank — could not have happened without the cooperation of the Pier 6 restaurant with their source of oyster shells, and the use of Prestige’s equipment and boats to transport the shells to the reef site.” The project partners and donors will continue to spread substrate material over time, gradually building up the depth of the reef, and the conservation groups will continue to monitor progress for the foreseeable future.

In the past, Prestige has done similar reef restoration and maintenance on their privately leased oyster-harvesting reefs in Texas and Louisiana. The difference this time is that Rett Reef is not a commercially motivated enterprise. It is the first non-harvestable sanctuary project in Texas to be spearheaded by a private-industry entity, rather than the state or a nonprofit conservation organization.

“We’re fortunate to be collaborating with Prestige on Rett Reef,” says Sweezey. “They have deep knowledge of local marine conditions and experience in managing oyster reefs. We combine this hands-on knowledge with our scientific data gathering and analysis to develop what we call adaptive management practices, adjusting and improving how we do things in future reef restorations.”

Gezim explains that maintaining an oyster lease is not unlike a farmer cultivating the land so that crops continue to grow and thrive. “People think that oyster fishermen just go out and scrape up all the

oysters off the bottom. That isn’t the case,” he says. “When we fish a reef, we remove the mature oysters to allow the undersized to get more nutrients, then we leave the reef alone for a few months.” One of the various roles that Gezim performs for Prestige is maintaining the harvesting and regenerating cycles for the company’s many oyster leases.

Prestige, one of the largest oyster companies in the country, was founded by Lisa and her husband Johnny Halili — a farmer’s son of Albanian descent who immigrated from war-torn Kosovo in 1976. An American success story, today the business they founded includes numerous members of their immediate and extended family, maintains 50,000 acres of oyster leases in Texas and Louisiana, and provides a market to as many as 100 oyster boats. The company also provides hundreds of coastal jobs in oyster fishing, processing and distribution.

The Halili family’s commitment to marine conservation did not begin with Rett Reef, either. In addition to conscientiously maintaining its oyster leases for health and growth, Prestige went through a rigorous three-year process led by Raz to become the first North American oyster fishery certified by the Marine Stewardship Council, a global nonprofit that promotes sustainably fished seafood.

The good news coming from the past two quarters of monitoring Rett Reef is that the numbers are slowly increasing for live oysters and attached spat. After a very tough summer for Galveston Bay oysters, the situation is far from ideal but, if Mother Nature cooperates, the project collaborators are cautiously optimistic that the managed success of this sanctuary reef will increase the oyster population, contribute to the continued health of Galveston Bay, and support the future of the oyster industry. “I’m an oysterman and in it for the long haul,” Gezim says. “I plan to pass the trade on to generations to come.”

MM Pack is a fifth-generation Texan with deep roots in Harris and Brazoria counties, writes about food and food history and splits her time between the Texas Gulf Coast and San Francisco.
Left Top: Oyster Boat by Raz Halili
Right Bottom: Oyster Dredging by Kimberly Park
Left Top: Kathy Sweezey Measuring Water Quality by MM Pack
Right Top: Oyster Dredging by Kimberly Park

Deep Purple

SHAKE UP YOUR WINTER RHYTHM WITH BEAUTIFUL BEETS

There’s a color that is currently trending with interior designers, looking to create bold, unexpected accents on walls, cabinets and trims. In the kitchen, that color is also a noteworthy winter vegetable: beets.

As the welcome cooler weather arrives, I will be making room in my fridge for these beautiful, dark burgundy vegetables and a fermented drink made from them.

Many may think it looks like wine, but it’s a healthy Indian libation called kanji, made from beets.

Beets come in many varieties and a range of vibrant colors with minimal differences in taste — from deep red or rich purple, which are the most common and have a more earthy flavor, to white, which are a bit sweeter. They also come in golden yellow and, my favorite, candy-striped. When you cut into this variety — called chioggia — it reveals a candy-cane effect of alternating red and white concentric stripes. It’s hard to believe its magical design is natural! It does fade after it cooks, so this variety is most appreciated when enjoyed raw.

The leafy tops can be enjoyed in a salad, or cooked as you would other greens such as spinach or collards. The stems are not tough and have a mild flavor and can be chopped and added to a salad or cooked dish.

Beet skins are very thin and contain many of the nutrients the vegetable is known for, including fiber. Although the skins are edible, it is common to peel them before or after cooking the root. A key thing to remember when preparing beets: make sure you don’t use your favorite cutting board, as the beets will likely leave behind reddish-purple stains.

Beets are fun and easy to grow in your own backyard. In Houston, September and October are the best time of year to plant beets so they will be ready to harvest in December. My daughter enjoys

gardening, and she asked me to be the "garden parent" for her fourthgrade class. We planted our first seeds in the school garden beds in the fall. I included beets, and it was magical watching the students harvest the small dark globes from the soil. Even if you only have access to a medium or large pot on your porch, you can try your luck and plant a few beet seeds.

Beets are enjoyed around the world in different ways. They can be eaten raw, roasted, boiled, steamed, pickled or juiced. A common preparation on restaurant menus is to pair beets with goat cheese crumbles and mixed greens, which is delicious and can be easily replicated at home. I prefer to roast beets, cutting them into ¼-inch slices, drizzling them with olive oil and cooking them until forktender, about 45 minutes. The peel is easily removed after they’ve cooled. The warm beets are so good on top of a salad.

Beet hummus is delicious and vibrant. I peel and roast the beets in my toaster oven, and then blend with cooked chickpeas, lemon, garlic, and tahini. I like to dip carrot sticks in this beautiful and tasty dip.

In the southern parts of India, beets are cut and sautéed into a vegetable dish called beetroot poriyal. Mustard seeds are tempered in oil to bloom their flavor. Curry leaves, green chilies, diced onion and ginger are tossed in. Then, diced or grated beets are added, along with turmeric, salt and shredded coconut and cooked until tender. This dish can be enjoyed with rice or Indian flatbreads such as chapati.

I don’t always drink fermented beverages, but when I do, I prefer kanji, which my mother taught me how to make. This refreshing Indian drink, most common in northern India, is high in probiotics and antioxidants and has many potential health benefits such as improving gut, skin and heart health and increasing energy levels. Traditionally, kanji is made with black carrots, which are hard to find in the United States, so the next best thing is beets, which have a similar color and taste (and express a pungent aroma that I ran away from as a child, but happily embrace now).

If you like kombucha, I think you will love kanji! I advise you to sip it in moderation until you see how your body adjusts to it. I hope you put that bundle of burgundy beets in your basket on your next grocery trip!

Kanji (Fermented Beet Drink)

Makes 5 cups

This Indian fermented beet drink is best enjoyed chilled, and has a distinct aroma and tart taste, so you will either love it or hate it! Sip it and reap the health benefits. All you need is fresh beets, black mustard seeds, salt, red pepper, a BIG pitcher of water and the patience to let the drink ferment on the counter for three days. It will last in the fridge for two weeks.

3 beets

3 t. ground black mustard seeds

2 t. salt

1/2 t. ground red pepper (cayenne)

5 c. water

PREPARATION

Wash and peel the beets. Cut off the ends. Slice the beet into 1/4-inch circles. Cut each circle in half. Put the cut beets in a large pitcher. Add the ground black mustard seeds, salt and ground red pepper. Add the water. Mix together. Cover with plastic wrap. Place the pitcher by a sunny window for three days. You will see the water start to turn a beautiful deep burgundy and bubbles and froth will start to form on top, which indicates the fermentation process has begun. You can take a peek, but keep it covered. After 3 days, mix well and put the pitcher in the fridge to chill. Sip as small amount as you like. You can also munch on the beets. Important note: If you do not see any fermentation on the top of the pitcher by day three, it is possible the house was too cold, or there was not enough sunlight. At this point, you should discard the contents.

bookstores and online.

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY SHUBHRA RAMINENI
Shubhra Ramineni is a first-generation Indian American raised in Houston. She is the author of two award-winning Indian cookbooks Entice with Spice: Easy and Quick Indian Recipes for Beginners and Healthy Indian Vegetarian Cooking that are available at local
Recipe courtesy of Shubhra Ramineni

What's In Season

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

This Winter

Dark greens galore, including collards, kales, mustard and rainbow chard

Roots rule! Beets, carrots, sunchokes, sweet potatoes, turnips

Winter squash, from acom and buttercup to kabocha and red kuri

And as always, pick those 'P's: pecans, pomegranates, pumpkin.

Grapefruit, kumquats, Meyer lemons, oranges, satsuma and other citrus

For more information on farmers markets, seasonal recipes and what's in season, visit ediblehouston.com

Warm Wassail

Recipe and photos by Pauline Stevens

Serves 4

4 c. apple cider

1/3 c. fresh orange juice

4 orange slices

4 apple slices

1/2 c. fresh cranberries

6-10 cloves

2 cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces

2 anise stars

1/3 c. agave syrup (optional) Sprigs of rosemary (optional)

PREPARATION

Combine all ingredients in a large pot and let it simmer on low heat for 15-20 minutes.

Serve hot, adding 1 slice of apple and 1 slice or orange to every cup, sweeten with agave if desired and garnish with rosemary.

Almond, Orange & Cranberry Cookies

Recipe and photos by Pauline Stevens

2 T. cranberries

1 orange, zest only, no white pith

1/2 c. powdered sugar

8 oz. unsalted butter, diced, room temperature

1/2 t. cornstarch

2 ¾ c. all-purpose flour

¾ t. almond extract

2 1/2 oz. sliced almonds

Pinch of salt

1 t. chopped rosemary (optional)

PREPARATION

Chop cranberries very small or use a food processor to get small pieces, set aside. Prepare orange zest, set aside. Mix powdered sugar, butter, cornstarch, flour, almond extract, sliced almonds and salt until well mixed. Add chopped cranberries and orange zest (and rosemary, if using). Do not over mix but make sure all ingredients are well incorporated. Transfer dough to cling wrap, press together and shape into a log. Freeze for 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 350°. Cut dough into ¼-inch discs and place on a prepared tray with parchment paper. Bake for 13-15 minutes until golden brown.

Beside her passion for photography, Pauline Stevens enjoys traveling and baking. She also visits every possible farmers market, even between frequent visits to NYC where her quadruplet sons live. Follow her store on IG @redbirdshouse.

Sowing Solutions

HOW THREE URBAN FARMS IN TEXAS ARE GROWING, AND GIVING, FOOD

WORDS BY AVA MOTES

As the holiday season draws near, the spirit of giving is taking root in local nonprofit farms and community gardens. Beyond the crops they nurture, these organizations are sowing solutions to some of society's most pressing issues. Whether they’re addressing food insecurity, promoting nutrition through educational programs, or practicing regenerative agriculture, these farms are leading by example. As we celebrate the season of giving, we’re excited to highlight the work local farms and nonprofits are doing to cultivate a healthier and more sustainable Texas.

San Antonio Food Bank Farms

The San Antonio Food Bank is addressing food insecurity with two farms that supply fresh, organic produce to underserved communities. In neighborhoods where access to healthy, affordable food is limited, these farms have become a vital part of the solution.

The first farm, located on 25 acres adjacent to the food bank, was established in 2007 and is now the largest urban farm in San Antonio. The second, located on 50 acres of historical farmland at Mission San Juan, broke ground in 2018 as a result of a unique partnership with the National Park Service. Both sites are now critical to the food bank’s motto: “Food for today, food for tomorrow, and food for the future.”

The food bank distributes roughly 30,000 pounds of fresh produce each year, much of which is sourced via donations. However, Mitch Hagney, who manages the farms as director of food sustainability, says that bringing food production closer to the food bank allowed them to grow more high-demand produce and ensure a reliable, quality supply.

“We don’t spread synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. We don’t use any herbicides, so we know that what we’re distributing to the public is of the highest quality,” Hagney says.

For many families in food deserts — areas with limited access to grocery stores — fresh produce is hard to come by. Food Bank president and CEO Eric Cooper recalled an eye-opening experience from a distribution event, where he learned he had given a group of children their first-ever watermelon. Their mother explained that without a car she couldn’t bring such a bulky item home.

“It was an enlightening moment for me to realize how … their diet and their ability to nourish themselves was impacted because of logistical nuances that those with a car are privileged not to experience,” Cooper says. In addition to produce distribution, the farms provide opportunities

to educate the community about local food systems and production methods.

“We hope that when people come on-site, they develop a notion of eating seasonally, of the work that's involved in agriculture, but also [the knowledge] that they are able to participate in agriculture,” Hagney says.

Hagney explains that the urban farm focuses on modern food production techniques, while the Mission San Juan farm gives visitors and volunteers insight into historical food production. Part of the site showcases colonial farming using a historic acequia for irrigation, while another portion is dedicated to native crops like nopales, which are farmed with input from the local indigenous community.

“It's enormously gratifying,” Hagney says. “I think for a lot of us who are passionate about improving the food system, sustainable agriculture and food insecurity are our two priorities. And it's a real privilege to be able to work on both at the same time.”

Hope Farms

In the heart of Houston, Hope Farms is reshaping education and accessibility around healthy eating. Launched as part of the Recipe for Success Foundation — a Houston-grown nonprofit with a now-national reach — Hope Farms is a decidedly local endeavor.

“We’d like to think of ourselves as the city’s farm,” Recipe for Success and Hope Farms founder Gracie Cavnar says.

Since the seven-acre farm opened in 2017, it has become a crucial part of the foundation’s mission, which also includes school-based nutrition education and public awareness campaigns. Hope Farms specializes in a hands-on, holistic and community-centered approach, offering healthy food and educational opportunities for all ages. The farm is a popular destination for students on field trips and scout troops, who have the opportunity to take free cooking and gardening classes on-site. It also hosts extended summer camps and works to train the next generation of urban farmers.

“The beauty of the kids coming to the farm is they get more of a broad understanding of the bigger world food system,” Cavnar says. “It gives them a more visceral touchpoint to where food comes from.”

The farm enhances Recipe for Success’ Seed-to-Plate school program, which pairs gardening and nutrition lessons with core curriculum concepts, but it also helps meet visitors where they’re at. Cavnar explains lessons cover everything from nature cycles to pollination and the importance of buying local to reduce carbon emissions. However, giving kids an appetite for healthy, locally grown produce is only half the work. Hope Farms also helps make produce more accessible throughout the Houston area by promoting the spread of homegrown urban farming projects. Their urban farmer training programs, including From Warriors to Farmers for veterans, provide aspiring farmers with the tools and skills to launch their own operations in the Gulf Coast region.

“I'm very much invested in the idea that we need a necklace of urban farms throughout our cities — certainly to serve food desert neighborhoods, but to serve all neighborhoods … I want people to know their farmers and in order to do that in a sustainable way, those farms have to be businesses,” Cavnar says, adding that the program couples agricultural and business training to ensure farmer success. To help connect the community with its farmers, Hope Farms also hosts Market Days every Saturday 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., where neighbors can purchase produce from the farm, current and former students of the program, and other regional partners. And on First Saturdays, the market operates like a mini festival with visiting local chefs, artisans, crafts and additional seasonal programming.

Left Page: Left: Photo by San Antonio Food Bank Right: Photo Hope Farms
by San Antonio Food Bank

“Our market is really part of our community,” Cavnar says, emphasizing the importance of platforming other Houston-area farmers. “We really want to put Houston on the map as a city that feels like this is important.”

University of Texas Microfarm

Just north of the University of Texas at Austin campus lies an unexpected half-acre of urban farmland. Once a vacant strip of grass in a flood plain behind the Whitaker Courts, this plot is now home to the thriving Campus Environmental Center Microfarm, the university’s first student-run organic farming endeavor.

Founded in 2012 and relocated to its current home in 2018, the Microfarm serves as both a source of fresh produce for the campus community and a living classroom where student volunteers gain hands-on experience with sustainable agriculture. The site includes a community garden with rentable plots, as well as a managed farm area, which donates all its produce to UT Outpost, the university’s on-campus food pantry. Since their first harvest at the current site, Microfarm co-leads Hillary Xu and Andie Eastland estimate they have donated around 1,500 pounds of fresh produce to UT Outpost. Valeria Martin, the university’s assistant director for basic needs, says that produce is in high demand at the food pantry — in part because it can be difficult to access for those living without a car in the university area.

“Many folks would say that the West Campus area, where many students live, is a food desert that doesn't have very easy access to grocery stores. That makes the partnership with UT Microfarm very important and very special,” Martin says. “It allows a space for students to learn to grow food on their own and support each other.”

Xu says Microfarm practices organic and regenerative agriculture techniques, which result in fresher and more nutritious produce for donation. She and Eastland are proud to harvest heirloom crops and other produce students couldn’t readily find in supermarkets, such as purple cauliflower. As a bonus, Eastland says that their practices promote better crop diversity and soil health.

“We do cover cropping, so we let half the field lay fallow. We grow crops that rejuvenate the soil on it for a season, and we're growing produce on the opposite side,” Eastland says, adding that it's important to educate their peers about the care that goes into food production. “I think there’s a certain pride, even for someone who's just there for a day, in knowing that the produce [you’re] harvesting, the produce that is fit to give to this food bank, is a little miracle.”

By working to replenish the soil, the Microfarm team has helped turn once “unusable” land into a productive and important part of the campus-area food system. They’ve also educated and empowered fellow students in the process.

Every Sunday on the farm, student volunteers gather for workdays, when they split into small groups to plant, weed or build new beds. Each workday begins with a brief orientation for newcomers, and is followed by a midday educational session on important issues pertaining to nutrition and sustainability.

“It's often people's first experience doing anything of the sort, whether that’s gardening or just being outdoors,” Xu says. “I think the Microfarm serves as that bridge for the gap that is often experienced in urban centers, where you don't really get experience with growing food.”

To learn more, visit: safoodbank.org, hopefarmshtx.org and utenvironment.org

AVA MOTES is an Austin native who follows the city's expanding food scene with an eye for the people and stories behind the menus. She loves trying new restaurants, exploring farmers markets, and relaxing in cafes with a good book in hand.
Top Left and Right: Photos by University of Texas Microfarm Bottom Left: Photo by Hope Farms

Helping Hand

HOW THE CENTRAL CITY CO-OP IS CONTRIBUTING TO OUR LOCAL FOOD SYSTEM

As a child, nothing was more magical than visiting my grandparent’s farm in Blue, Texas, in December. We’d turn off the highway onto a rocky, pumpkin-orange road striated with streaks of red and beige. Cows would be hoofing along a

creek. At night, we would build a bonfire in a grassy field where berries grew in the summer. Fireworks would climb the night air, and we’d roast hot dogs and make s’mores.

My grandfather was a Renaissance man. Not only did he run a small farm, but he also made goat’s milk soaps, vanilla and star anise pilsner, and his own wine. He tended a garden that provided for him seasonally and grew flowers that adorned our salads and vases. I’d catch up with him on his porch, me in a swing and him in a rocker, a cigar between his lips. In the background, I’d hear goats, clucking hens, a tired-out rooster, guinea fowl, and mules and donkeys hoarsely crying.

He and his homestead are one reason farms are sacred to me, as they should be to all of us, and why I try to do as much of my grocery shopping as possible with local farmers either at farmers markets or at shops such as Central City Co-Op.

Located in a sleek, metal-clad building at 2515 Harvard Street in the Heights, the co-op offers local produce, eggs, dairy products, meat and more. Recently, I sat down with Jessica Wilt, the executive director, to learn about the enterprise’s history, mission and future.

The co-op was founded in 1998 by “a group of people with a love for food,” according to Wilt, and who wanted better access to organic and eventually local produce. Originally operating from the porch of Pat Greer, a pioneer of “gluten-free, sustainable, organic food,” members pooled money and labor to buy cases of organic produce from local distributors, which they would then split between them, kicking off the venture with a case of parsley.

The group eventually began purchasing fruits and vegetables from local farms such as Gundermann Acres, working with them to expand their organic offerings. As demand as well as supply increased, the organization needed more space and a more efficient operating structure, so they opened a retail shop at Ecclesia Houston that welcomed members and the public every Wednesday. In 2009, they relocated to Grace Lutheran Church in Montrose, which eventually took over much of the responsibility for the co-op.

However, in 2016, as the church reorganized as Kindred Lutheran, Central City began having financial difficulties and there were fears that it might close. The members, along with the church, began considering new leadership. Longtime members Wilt and her husband, Erick Navas, stepped up to begin running the co-op and improving its business practices, such as updating its website and implementing Square for payments.

When the pandemic struck, demand for local produce and products at Central City skyrocketed from a few weekly orders to over 250 as customers were searching for smaller, safer alternatives to big-box grocery stores. In July 2020, Central City found a larger, temporary home on 20th Street, where Jūn is now located, and was open six days a week. To meet the demand, Wilt and her husband left their day jobs, sacrificing both incomes for the business — an investment they made because they strongly believe “that the co-op has an integral place in the Houston community.”

In 2022, the couple moved Central City to its new permanent home at 2515 Harvard. There, the couple serves a community of shoppers committed to their mission and over 75 vendors, developing prices that are sustainable for all parties.

At the co-op, you can find produce ranging from hyperlocal to national, from seasonal staples such as tomatoes, squash, cucumbers and lettuce, to unique items such as Texas-grown apples. In addition to local produce, they stock locally raised beef — wagyu or regular — from Gold Ring Wagyu and Sundance Farm & Ranch; chicken from Alvin-based Jolly Farms; and pork and goat meat from Top Essential Farms. They also carry pantry essentials such as Texas Hill Country Olive Co.’s olive oil, locally grown Harvest Grain Mills’ Carolina Gold Brown Rice, and more. One of my favorites is the various pickled vegetables like squash and jalapeños from Gundermann Acres.

Striving to create a one-stop-shopping experience, Central City also sells dairy from Mill-King Market & Creamery in McGregor, as well as a selection of butters and cheeses; bread from Magnol French Bakery and gluten-free baked goods from Leven Bakery & Cafe. In addition, you can purchase beer and wine, and specialty products such as goat milk soap from Dapper Goat.

Central City offers year-long membership levels and several weekly farm share options, too. Membership perks include lower prices, member-exclusive specials and events, meet-and-greets with the farmers, and more. Large, medium or small farm shares can be ordered weekly or as 12-week subscriptions for pickup on Wednesdays. They also offer a fruit-only share and a Gundermann Acres share.

Of course, you’re also welcome at Central City as a member of the public. And although the public tends to gauge the prices of locally grown food by industrial grocery retail prices, it’s important to note that smaller-scale farmers have different costs. With national inflation as it currently is, I find the produce prices at Central City

(and at many regional farmers markets) quite comparable to grocery stores, and fairly easy to swing on a budget. The same can be said for milk. Meat, on the other hand, tends to have a bit higher price, due to the behind-the-scenes costs of raising livestock. But, the quality and sustainable growing practices make it worth budgeting to buy at least some of your meat and produce from local farmers — and at Central City.

Our local, sustainable agricultural system is fragile, which is why shopping at co-ops like Central City is paramount to supporting our region’s local farmers and artisans. As a customer, you’ll leave knowing that the food you purchased grew within the terroir of Texas and that you supported the farmers and ranchers that poured time, sweat, money and love into ensuring its quality.

As we near a time of year often full of merriment and giftgiving, consider purchasing ingredients for your holiday (and every day) meals at Central City Co-Op. Memberships and farm shares make wonderful gifts for those who love to cook or want to support local farmers and artisans, as do the individual items found on Central City’s shelves.

As a summer farmhand on my grandparent’s farm, I saw how hard farmers worked. Buying local meat, dairy, and produce from Central City supports that hard work, putting food on the table of those putting it on yours.

Central City Co-op is open Tuesday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Saturday – Sunday, 9 a.m. to 4. p.m., closed Mondays. To learn more visit centralcityco-op.com

Left and Top Right: Photos by Colin James Sturdevant
Colin James Sturdevant is a poet and writer from HTX. He is the founder of a budding nonprofit small press and lit organization called pass the salt presse. He enjoys the terroir of food and drink from the woodiness of the cutting board’s imprint in a roast to the lesser cooked meat toward the bone.
WORDS BY COLIN JAMES STURDEVANT
Above: Photo by David Leftwich

THE EXCELLENCE OF EUROPEAN D.O. CAVA AND JAMÓN CONSORCIOSERRANO

In a world that often prioritizes speed over substance, there remains proof that good things, and excellent taste, take time. D.O. Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are two such treasures, each representing a unique blend of Spanish tradition and taste created with time and perfected over centuries.

Cava has earned its place among the world’s finest sparkling wines, yet it remains wonderfully versatile. Whether paired with a simple salad, a casual meal or a celebratory toast, Cava brings a touch of elegance to every occasion. What makes Cava de Guarda Superior unique is that it is produced using the traditional method where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.

This meticulous process, lasting a minimum of 18 months, is carefully overseen by the D.O. Cava regulatory body, ensuring that each bottle upholds the highest standards of quality and authenticity. Made from organic vineyards that are over 10 years old, Cava de Guarda Superior reveals its craftsmanship with every pour. As the delicate, harmonious bubbles rise to the surface, you can truly appreciate the time and care it took to perfect them! Similarly, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is more than just a drycured ham. This exquisite product is made using traditional curing

methods which takes a minimum of 12 months to deliver a delicate and rich flavor. Each production is upheld to the rigorous standards of the Consorcio del Jamón Serrano Español, which ensures that every piece of Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bearing the seal is of exceptional quality. Like Cava, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is not merely an accompaniment to festive tables; it is a versatile delight that can elevate everyday meals with its complex flavors and delicate texture.

Both Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are perfect examples of how time-honored craftsmanship, underpinned by the European Union’s commitment to quality and tradition, creates products that are unmatched in their category. They are not just crafted in Spain; they are perfected by time, offering a taste of excellence that is both accessible and extraordinary. Whether enjoyed on a special occasion or as part of your daily life, Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bring the best of Europe to your table.

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