Edible Houston Winter 2023 by ediblehouston

WINTER 2023 | Issue 41

Winter 10 12

CONTENTS 2

FROM THE EDITOR

WHAT'S ON OUR COUNTER

NOTABLE EDIBLES What's Happening Around Houston

EDIBLE ENDEAVOR Cuban Culinary Heritage

SPOTLIGHT ON LOCAL Houston Pasta is Cooking

COME AND SHOP LOCAL

FARMERS MARKET

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE Find the Best Locally-made Treasures

FARMERS DIARY Texas Oyster Farms are Making Waves

URBAN HARVEST FARMERS MARKET Every Saturday; 8:00 am to Noon 2752 Buffalo Speedway URBAN HARVEST MOBILE MARKET Visit www.urbanharvest.org for locations

Urban Harvest cultivates thriving communities through gardening and access to healthy, local food. We are improving the lives, soil, and plates of all Houstonians through: the Farmers Market, Organic Gardening & Nutrition Education, Healthy Food Access, and Community Gardens. CLASSES

EVENTS

LEARN MORE

Garden Networking and Cookie Exchange, Winter Fruit Tree Protection, Companion Planting, Edible Academy and much more!

Women in Agriculture December 8 from 8:30 am – 3:30 pm Winter Festival December 9 from 9:00 am – 11:00 am

Visit urbanharvest.org

scanearhern emore! to l

COVER Cranberry Almond Skillet Cake (photo by Pauline Stevens)

16 18

THIS PAGE

DellaCasa Pasta (photo by Kerrisa Treanor) Cranberry Almond Skillet Cake (photo by Pauline Stevens)

RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE 15

DELLACASA FETTUCCINE WITH PISTACHIO AND CASTELVETRANO GREMOLATA

CRANBERRY ALMOND SKILLET CAKE

CRANBERRY CITRUS SPICY RELISH

edible HOUSTON 1

FROM THE EDITOR

PUBLISHER

Monique Threadgill monique@atxpublications.com

One of the fun and interesting things about editing Edible Houston is seeing what themes emerge in each issue — themes that organically connect the stories. As I was reviewing this batch of articles, I noticed that, appropriately for the coming holiday season, family plays a key role in many of them. There is the mother and daughter who immigrated from Cuba and are now sharing and celebrating the culinary heritage of their homeland. The father and daughter who are pioneering sustainable oyster farming on the Texas Gulf Coast. Another father and daughter who are making award-winning olive oil in the Hill Country. The Mexican American family who spends their weekends making and selling carnitas. Another Mexican American family running a trompo-focused restaurant six days a week. There’s the African American family smoking acclaimed barbecue in Oak Forest. The husband-and-wife team making pasta, sauces and focaccia. The matriarch of a family-run Italian restaurant that still makes the eatery’s pasta in her 80s. The son who took over the restaurant started by his parents. The Vietnamese American family who

started selling their own sriracha. The Vietnamese American emergency room nurse who developed a phở making kit with her mother and then started a business with her family to sell them. It's not surprising that families start food-related businesses, because food plays such an important role in our families, those we choose and those we were raised in. Sitting around a table of food celebrating a significant event or consoling each other after a loss is where family bonds are forged and memories are made. The smell of a favorite childhood food can evoke memories of parents, grandparents, siblings, aunts, uncles and cousins. It’s also around the table that we can expand our family. It’s where we can create bonds beyond traditional familial ties. It can be where we overcome differences and build consensus. Sharing a table of food may not solve all our familial issues, let alone the world’s problems, but it can be a place where we start a conversation; do something kind for family, friends or even strangers; and begin the process of bridging divides. As this issue shows, the family table is also a place that might inspire you and your family to start a business sharing some of the dishes found on that table — a small step in helping us connect to each other through food. During the winter (and hopefully cooler) months, whether you are celebrating the coming holidays or not, may your table be full of good food, family and friends.

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EDITOR

David Leftwich david@ediblehouston.com COPY EDITORS Claire Cella Stacey Ingram Kaleh CONTRIBUTING WRITERS MM Pack Pauline Stevens Kerrisa Treanor CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Sonya Sellers Pauline Stevens Kerrisa Treanor ADVERTISING SALES Karuna Diedericks karuna@ediblehouston.com Grace McCormick grace@atxpublications.com DISTRIBUTION Nathan Simmons tmem23@gmail.com CONTACT US 5524 Bee Caves Rd., Ste. J-4 Austin, TX 78746 512-441-3971 info@ediblehouston.com ediblehouston.com

Edible Houston is published quarterly by ATX Publications LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2023. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and notify us. Edible Houston is a member of Edible Communities.

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WHAT'S ON OUR COUNTER WORDS AND PHOTOS BY DAVID LEFTWICH

Juke Joints, Jazz Clubs and Juice In her new book Juke Joints, Jazz Clubs, and Juice: Cocktails from Two Centuries of African American Cookbooks, two-time James Beard-award winning author, Toni Tipton-Martin, who is also the editor in chief of Cook’s Country Magazine, continues the journey she started in her previous two books. In her first, The Jemima Code, she documents the forgotten history and ignored contributions of African American foodways by exploring two centuries of Black cookbooks in America. In her next, Jubilee, she adapts recipes from those cookbooks for the contemporary kitchen while celebrating the depth and breadth of African American cookery. In her latest, Tipton-Martin delves into those historic cookbooks to highlight the important contributions African Americans made to America’s beverage traditions. “My ambition is to ensure that African American workers who plied their trade behind the bar are not forgotten,” she writes in the introduction. In seven chapters that cover subjects ranging from home fermentation to non-alcoholic beverages, she again translates historic recipes into accessible steps anyone can do at home, while providing extensively researched historical background. It is an approach that gives the reader an insightful everyday cookbook that will have you sipping mint cordials and making homemade coffee liqueur for the holidays. Purchase a copy at your favorite local bookstore.

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The Lone Star of Texas Olive Oil

The Things You Do For Phở

For over a decade, olive oil from Texas Hill Country Olive Company has been a staple in my kitchen. Co-founded in 2008 by John and Cara Gambini, a father-and-daughter team who are the descendants of Sicilian immigrants, the 17-acre olive orchard and production facility is located in Dripping Springs. Though humans have been producing and using olive oil for around 6,000 years, commercial production in Texas only began in the 1990s, mainly in central Texas where the soil and climate are suitable for growing olive trees — though Texas’ volatile hot and cold temperature spikes can disrepute the fruiting cycle. Since they opened, the Gambinis have been one of the state’s premier producers, winning several awards along the way. Texas Hill Country Olive Company currently offers five varieties of extra-virgin oil, which are pressed and bottled within 24 hours of harvest. My favorite is the Sola Stella, which won the 2017 Les Olivalies Argent Award in Cannes, France. Made from 100 percent Arbequina olives, a varietal popular in Spain, it expresses a delicate blend of floral and grassy flavors and finishes with a peppery burn, which indicates a healthy dose of the antioxidant oleocanthal. It’s great for making vinaigrettes and pestos, drizzling over pasta to give it an extra hit of flavor and other everyday uses. Texas Hill Country Olive Company also offers a range of olive oils infused with aromatics such as garlic or rosemary and a line of barrelaged balsamic vinegars. You can find its products at Urban Harvest Farmers Market, Bering’s, Blue Horizon Seafood and Central City Co-op, or order online at texashillcountryoliveco.com.

I admit I was skeptical that a microwaved phở kit could recreate the complex richness of a long-simmered broth made with bones, charred aromatics and toasted spices. But I was surprised when I slurped my first spoonful of the noodle soup produced by PhoLicious’s kit. Though it may not be quite on par with the aromatic bowls of phở that you can get in Houston’s top Vietnamese restaurants, it does make a tasty and satisfying quick meal. Which is probably why it won the 2023 Grand Prize in H-E-B’s annual Quest for Texas Best competition. During the pandemic, PhoLicious’s co-founder and CEO Anh Trousdale, who arrived in the U.S. as a refugee from Vietnam when she was 6, couldn’t get phở at local restaurants due to shutdowns and, as an emergency room nurse, didn’t have time to make it. Dissatisfied with the instant phở she found at grocery stores, she along with her mom Thu — who has owned restaurants with her husband — began developing, in Trousdale’s spare time, a quick week-night version based on family recipes. After they perfected the concept, they began sharing the kits with family and friends. They proved so popular that Anh and her husband Joseph, a 17-year veteran of the hospitality industry, launched PhoLicious, which is now based in Houston. The lynchpin of the ready-in-five-minute kit is a clever mesh “tea bag” of spices that includes star anise, coriander, cardamon, fennel, clove

and cinnamon. It along with the other clearly marked, easy-to-assemble components produces a bowl of tender noodles swimming in a fragrant broth. At this point, you can eat it as-is for a quick lunch, or, if you have more time, you can stir in the vegetables, herbs and proteins of your choice. Either way, you can kick it up a notch by stirring in some Mama La’s sriracha. You can find PhoLicious’s beef and chicken phở kits at H-E-B. To learn more, visit pholicious.net.

When Life Doesn’t Give You Hot Sauce, Make Your Own

Chakkapak, who made it at home for family and friends before selling it commercially as Sriaja Panich. Instead, I saw a red-capped bottle graced with the smiling visage of Kim Su Tran La (aka “Mama La”), who founded Houston’s Kim Son Restaurant in 1982 after fleeing the Communist regime in Vietnam. This locally made sriracha is being sold by Kim Son’s sister company Mama La’s Kitchen, which produces a retail line of Vietnamese foods such as beef phở broth concentrate and imperial pork egg rolls. Ms. La’s son Tri developed the recipe in his home kitchen specifically to complement Kim Son’s phở. When the sriracha shortage began earlier this year, caused in part by an ongoing drought in Mexico, the company decided to ramp up production and sell their unique version at retail locations. Many sriracha brands offer simple one-note concoctions, but Mama La’s version combines jalapeños, Thai chiles, garlic and more into a rich, complex sauce. It initially expresses a smooth sweetness that dissolves into a sharp tanginess with hints of nutty, garlicky umami before the warming heat of the chilies explodes on the back of your palate. It’s the perfect addition to a grilled pork bánh mì, a shrimp po-boy or scrambled eggs. You can find it at LuLoo’s Day & Night, Nam Eatery, Phat Eatery, Central Market, H Mart, 99 Ranch Market, My Hoa Food Market and other area grocery stores. To find a location near you, visit mamalaskitchen.com.

During a visit to LuLoo’s Day & Night, a café and bakery in Garden Oaks, co-owner Terry Wong pointed to a familiar-looking rounded squeeze bottle filled with a bright, orange-red sauce. I expected to see a self-assured rooster emblazoned on a green-capped bottle of Huy Fong Foods’ popular, jalapeño-based version of sriracha. The hot sauce was originally developed in the 1930s in Si Racha, Thailand by Thanom edible HOUSTON 5

NOTABLE EDIBLES WORDS AND PHOTOS BY DAVID LEFTWICH

course, also had to try one: a luscious lamb version that would easily make a hearty meal all on its own. It would be difficult to come here and order just one dish, so come with a group and order as much of the menu as you can. Visit at 5711 Hillcroft Ave. | kcurryandbar.com

pork in a pita instead of a tortilla. The trompocooked pork also comes on tortas, quesadillas, tostadas and even a salad. There are a handful of other taco options including breakfast tacos, which are served all day. For a satisfying meal, mix and match on the taco platter, which comes with rice and creamy refried beans. Visit at 316 Shepherd Dr. | tiotrompo.com

TÍO TROMPO

KATHMANDU CURRY & BAR Nestled in an L-shaped plaza at the corner of Hillcroft and Harwin — the heart of the Mahatma Gandhi District — Kathmandu Curry & Bar is one of a handful of Houston eateries serving Nepali food. Though Nepali cuisine shares some commonalities with Indian and Pakistani food, it’s a unique complex of culinary influences that have adapted to the country’s various geographical and cultural regions — which is just fancy shorthand for saying it’s a cuisine I still have a lot to learn about. Part of that education process is, of course, trying the food. So, on a recent visit with a friend, we ordered several dishes. Most countries have at least one example of dough parcels stuffed with a savory filling. Nepal has momos. Kathmandu offers nine variations of these dumplings: three fillings — vegetable, goat or chicken — served three different ways: steamed, tossed in a tomatobased chili sauce or cooked and served in a spicy broth. The vegetable chili momos we tried combined a flavorful filling, tender wheat wrappers, and a catalytic chili sauce into pillowy gems. One of Nepal’s regional cuisines is Newari, which has developed over the last 2,000 years in the urbanized yet fertile Kathmandu Valley. This casual curry house offers a Newari platter that includes bara (a spiced lentil patty), umami-rich grilled meats, poignant mustard greens, a delicately spiced soybean salad, baji (beaten rice) and more. Since curry is in the restaurant’s name, we, of

Winter 2023

As soon as you walk into Tío Trompo’s red-andwhite storefront, in the lowslung building it shares with a convenience store on Shepherd, you’ll spot the top-shaped hunk of layered pork slowly rotating on a vertical roasting spit — the trompo in the restaurant’s name. This method of cooking meat was introduced to Mexico by Lebanese immigrants in the early 20th century. There, they adapted the shawarma they grilled on vertical spits to local ingredients and tastes, creating dishes such as tacos árabes and tacos al pastor. Not only does the trompo take center stage (well, just left of center) behind the white-tiled counter at this family-owned eatery, it’s the focus of the menu, too. They offer three styles of trompo: tacos al pastor — succulent yet slightly crispy pork seasoned with an adobo made with achiote, citrus, cinnamon and other spices and herbs; tacos oriental, a milder yet still tasty pork; and tacos árabes — that same

WE’RE-DOUGH On Westheimer, west of The Galleria, you’ll find a pair of stylish strip centers that house a United Nations of establishments and that represent many of the cultures that call Houston home: a Middle Eastern-focused coffee, candy, spice and nut store; a Cuban café; a Cajun seafood joint; a shawarma house; a Guatemalan bakery; a Vietnamese eatery; a Middle Eastern restaurant; an upscale Nigerian grill; a Japanese sushi bar; and between a beauty school and a pet store, a Lebanese bakery and restaurant called We’re-Dough. Open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., you can stop by in the morning for fakhar, a rich, satisfying Lebanese dish of eggs cooked in a clay pot. You can order them plain or with various additions such as soujok, a spicy beef sausage. But the highlight is the array of Lebanese flat breads that are baked in house: manoush, a puffy, texture-rich bread, which is available with a variety of toppings such as one that is half Akkawi cheese (a soft, unripened brined cheese), half za’atar; the thin, crepe-like sajj that is wrapped around a choice of fillings such as a felicitous blend of labneh, cucumbers, tomatoes and mint; or kaak, a sesame-seed coated bread that is stuffed with cheese. Visit at 6437 Westheimer Rd . | we-re-dough.com

GOLD TOOTH TONY’S DETROIT PIZZA Anthony Calleo, executive chef and coowner of legendary Montrose bar Rudyard’s, rose to prominence in the Houston food scene with his equally legendary food truck Pi Pizza, which was known for its creative toppings and extensively R&D’ed and well-executed crust. After stepping away from the wellregarded brick-and-mortar location, which is now closed, Calleo eventually turned his attention to updating the food offerings at Rudyard’s, which opened in 1978, while also guiding it through the pandemic. Now, he’s returned to his roots with his newest venture, Gold Tooth Tony’s Detroit Pizza, which is on 19th Street between Shepherd and Durham in the Heights. Detroit-style pizza is a deep-dish rectangular pie (legend says, it was originally cooked in steel pans used to store auto parts) with a crispy bottom and a chewy, focaccia-like interior. Unlike other styles that spread the sauce on first, the Motor City variant applies

of fresh figs, the creaminess of Pure Luck TX chèvre, the spicy kick of chiliinfused honey and an herbaceous kick of oregano. Gold Tooth Tony’s is, unsurprisingly, busy so I recommend ordering early. And remember, it’s primarily geared toward takeout and delivery, so has a limited amount of indoor and outdoor seating. Visit at 1901 N. Shepherd Dr. | goldtoothtonys.com

of town you’re in, it’s worth the drive to enjoy the results of the Farias’s hard work while sitting at a picnic table — and in true Houston fashion, you may spot some cattle or a goat in the neighboring field. Visit at 9715 Veterans Memorial Dr. | @diegosfamouscarnitas

DIEGO’S FAMOUS CARNITAS

a thick helping of Wisconsin brick cheese directly on the dough, so it and the top layer of the crust meld into a single luscious, buttery stratum as it bakes. Calleo and his team have mastered the fine art of creating those toothsome footings, which serve as the perfect platform for their unique combos that round out the culinary architecture. You can’t go wrong with any of the preset options from the straight-forward pepperoni to the outrageously fun Sebastian’s Big Idea with togarashi roasted pineapple and SPAM. My current favorite is The Piggy, which combines the salty umami of pancetta with the sweetness

Veterans Memorial Drive is one of Houston’s great food roads on par with Westheimer, Bellaire and Long Point — one that is often overlooked by area food writers including myself. Bisecting north Houston, it runs 23 miles from the Luby’s at I-45 to the SEAHOLIC Houston Seafood & Oyster Bar at FM 1960. It’s home to a Vietnamese Thai restaurant that the owner of an Asian food distributor said has the best Thai food in Houston and to well-established taco trucks with covered enclosures for picnic tables. Diego’s Famous Carnitas is one of the latter. Owned and operated by Diego Farias, who immigrated from Quiroga, Mexico, and his family, this bright red taco trailer is open Friday through Sunday. Preparations begin early in the morning, when the family butchers the pigs and then simmers the parts in cazos (copper pots) filled with lard. The results are a decadent blend of tender, juicy pork, crispy skin and other tasty bits. You can savor these delicious carnitas in tacos, tortas, burritos or quesadillas, or you can buy it by the pound. No matter what part

Previous Page: Upper Left: Newari platter at Kathmandu Curry & Bar Upper Right: Fakhar at We're Dough Bottom: Tacos al pastor at Tio Trompo Right Page: Left: The Piggy at Gold Tooth Tony's Top and Right:: Diego's Famous Carnitas edible HOUSTON 7

GATLIN’S BBQ

In the demanding world of restaurants, it’s quite a feat to be consistently good year after year. But to be at the top of your game after 13 years of smoking meat for almost 24 hours a day, six days a week, well, that’s reaching Simone Biles levels of achievement. In a city that is now brimming with good barbecue, James Beard-semifinalist Greg Gatlin and his team might be producing the best brisket in town. Moist and crackling with flavor, their version has, on my last two visits, out shown any I have eaten in the last couple of years. And it’s not just the brisket. They excel at coaxing perfectly cooked ribs and sausages from their pits in Oak Forest. Their smoked chicken is so tender and juicy, you just might skip the Texas barbecue trinity on your next visit. Oh, and they have excellent sandwiches.

However, in the competitive, yet friendly, world of Texas barbecue, you need more than just well-executed smoked meats. You also need good sides. Gatlin’s sides, which are overseen by Greg’s mother (the business is a family affair) are mighty fine. Don’t miss the Louisiana-style dirty

rice, which combines caramelized bits of sautéed onions, bell pepper, celer y and sausage into a matrix of flavors and textures that could be a meal by itself. There are also tender collard greens infused with smoke and heat, refreshing coleslaw, creamy potato salad, smoked corn, candied yams and more. It’s all served in a warm, spacious environment that will have you wanting to share the experience and the food with friends and family. Visit at 3510 Ella Blvd. | gatlinsbbq.com

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Texas Trinity at Gatlin's BBQ

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EDIBLE ENDEAVOR

Left Page: Left: All My Moms Black, Garbanzo, Red Beans Center: Alexandra's Aunt Milagros Avila, Alexandra Quintana and Gladita Avila in Cuba

C o m i d a

Right Page: Top: Avila and Quintana Bottom: Avila and Quintana serving Cuban black beans

CRIOLLA

HOW A MOTHER AND DAUGHTER ARE SHARING AND CELEBRATING THEIR CUBAN CULINARY HERITAGE

WORDS BY DAVID LEFTWICH | PHOTOS BY ALL MY MOMS

lexandra Quintana, co-founder of Cuban food purveyor A ll My Moms, has two photos that c apture t he essence of her business. “One is a picture of my aunt and my mom carrying me, feeding me food. And now, fast-forward, a picture of us at the farmers market, my mom, and my aunt, and me in the middle,” she says. The farmers market, specifically the Urban Harvest Farmers Market, is where I first met Quintana. She was standing under a white tent in front of a pastel green banner with a pale pink sunburst highlighting the company’s social media handle — colors inspired by her grandmother’s house in Cuba. It’s not just the branding that is inspired by her ancestors. Most weekends, Quintana is enthusiastically selling Cuban food that is “an ode to all the women who helped raise me…my mom, my grandmother, my aunt, even neighbors.” For now, that food is focused on the humble, nourishing, yet multidimensional dishes her mom and business partner, Gladita Avila, cooked when Quintana was growing up: Cuban black beans, Cuban red beans, garbanzo beans, lentils and rice, rice pudding and congrí (a Cuban black bean and rice dish often served at celebrations). Quintana was born in Cuba and grew up during the 1990s in Bahía Honda, a rural town on the northwest coast of the island, located on the Straits of Florida roughly halfway between Miami and Cancún. It was a difficult time on the island. The Soviet Union, Cuba’s main trade partner and financial supporter, had fallen early in the decade, leaving the country isolated, economically devastated and with little food or fuel. “When I was growing up, after the fall of the Soviet Union, there was nothing … the protein that I grew up on was mainly beans,” says Quintana. This scarcity has reshaped Cuban cuisine. “Because of the economic situation, I think that the essence of Cuban food has lost a lot on the island itself,” says Quintana. It’s a sentiment echoed by Cuban-American filmmaker Asori Soto in his award-winning documentary Cuban Food Stories. He notes that during the post-Soviet-era beef was replaced by soybeans and cooking oil was replaced by water and that Cubans have been poor for so long they have lost many of their culinary traditions.

Winter 2023

Despite the shortages, food and hospitality were still central to Quintana’s family life in rural Cuba. There was the occasional, celebratory pig roast using pigs they raised themselves. But more often, Quintana says, “We grew up eating whatever was in the backyard,” which included guava, mangoes, papayas, carrots and cabbage. Sharing what food they had was important to her family, even when they didn’t have enough. “My aunt used to say whenever people were over, ‘Oh my god, what are we going to feed them? Just add water to the soup.’ We would just keep adding water to the soup and keep feeding people,” Quintana says. Twenty years ago, when Quintana was 11, she and her mom left Cuba because of the ongoing dire economic situation and the years of living under the oppressive Castro regime, which had denied Avila the opportunity to become a nurse because she wouldn’t renounce her religion. They lived in Miami for a few years before moving to south Texas where they had family. For Quintana, arriving in South Texas, which has a deeply-rooted Mexican culture, caused an even bigger culture shock than moving to Miami, which is home to many Cubans. She learned that “even if you speak the same language, even if you were conquered by the Spanish, cultures are so different; the food is different.” The Mexican food she encountered in Texas was spicier than Cuban food and some words had different meanings. When a young cousin was born, her mother asked a nurse for a “culero,” which means diaper in Cuban Spanish. The nurse thought she was being insulted because that word is an insult in Mexico. Another time, her mother ordered a “tortilla” at a restaurant and was surprised when she was brought a corn tortilla. She had expected a potato omelet. “Corn tortillas don’t exist in Cuba. We had never seen them,” says Quintana. Eventually, Quintana’s family moved to Houston, and she attended college in Boston. After returning to the Bayou City, her grandmother unexpectedly passed away shortly before Quintana’s birthday. While she was cleaning out her grandmother’s refrigerator, she found all the ingredients to make a traditional pig’s feet stew — the dish she always asked her grandmother to make for her birthday.

“I had been dealing with that sense of loss and thought ‘No one is ever going to be able to taste my grandma’s food ever again. I don’t want that to be the case for my mom,’” Quintana says. That realization is why she started All My Moms. She wanted to share the food of her mom, her grandmother, her aunts and of her homeland. That food she says is “very humble. It’s an unassuming food, but it’s not basic. It has a synchronization of so many flavors.” It primarily blends influences from Spain with those of the enslaved West Africans who were forced to Cuba by the Spanish. These confluences of cuisines are reflected in such dishes as the aforementioned pig’s feet stew and okra stew, which Quintana notes are heavily derived from West African cuisine. As is another popular Cuban stew, ajiaco.

“It’s one of my favorite things,” says Quintana. “And if there's one dish that showcases the essence of everything that has happened in Cuba since 1492, it's ajiaco.” According to Quintana, the dish usually combines different root vegetables such as cassava, ñame (yam) and malanga, which are from West Africa; meats, including cured meats if available, which show Spanish contributions; and vegetables such as squash, which reveal the influence of Indigenous people like the Taíno. “It’s literally a melting pot,” she says. Another important influence on Cuban cuisine were the Chinese workers who built the island’s railroads. They introduced their flavors and their white rice, which is now a significant part of Cuban foodways and features in All My Moms’ offerings such as congrí, lentils and rice, and rice pudding. These culinary influences, along with essential ingredients such as cumin, garlic, culantro, sugar and bitter orange (“a holy grail of Cuban food because it is used to season pork”), are at the heart of comida criolla, which Quintana describes as “the original Cuban food, the one that incorporates West African, Spanish and Native American.” To enjoy Quintana and Avila’s version of comida criolla — a version rooted in rural Cuba, a love of family and a refrigerator stocked with all the ingredients for pig’s feet stew — look for the All My Mom’s products at the Urban Harvest, Rice Village, and Heights Mercantile Farmers Markets, and Central City Co-op. “It’s the food we’ve been cooking to nourish our family for generations,” says Quintana. Learn more at allmymoms.com and @allmymoms on Instagram. Left Page Elote

David Leftwich is editor of Edible Houston and loves to cook locally Right Page: Chef Beatriz Martines grown vegetables and hang out with his daughter, wife and a few too many stacks of books. edible HOUSTON 11

SPOTLIGHT SPOTLIGHTONONLOCAL LOCAL

Pasta

PARADE

FRESH PASTA THROUGH A HOUSTON LENS WORDS AND PHOTOS BY KERRISA TREANOR

homemade pasta dish has the power to take us back to our childhood kitchen or the shoulder-high herb garden in grandma’s backyard. Perhaps it’s the lure of three simple ingredients — f lour, eggs and water — becoming more than the sum of their parts, especially when personalities, histories and cheeses are folded in as well. It’s a craving that can prompt you to get in your car and go to any corner of Houston to satisfy it. If you’re not concerned with carbs or commuting, Houston yields a mple opportunities to try such dishes. Living in a diverse culinary landscape, our pasta options vary from the trusted institutions serving traditional classics to so-new-it’s-a-secret spots offering modern, and, dare I say, delightfully strange interpretations. Or you can recreate these moments in your own kitchen by sourcing from the handful of Houston artisans making fresh, handmade pasta. RESTAURANTS SERVING FRESH PASTAS For a no-reservation-required experience, Paulie’s is a Montrose favorite for comfort food that’s discerningly Italian. In 2007, the restaurant was passed down to the person behind the name, Paul Petronella. Inspired by his parents, who started the eatery in 1998, he elevated the offerings and added fresh pasta that's made daily. Petronella trail blazed by acquiring one of Houston’s first bronze-die pasta extruders. Today the Paulie’s menu features creste di gallo, canestri, rigatoni, spaghetti and bucatini, all made in-house. Try the bucatini puttanesca or rigatoni bolognese, followed by a shot of espresso and a locally famous, seasonally decorated shortbread cookie. Further north, Via Emilia has become a go-to for residents of The Woodlands seeking scratch-made penne, pappardelle, stuffed pastas, lasagna, linguine and spaghetti. In the fall, locals fawn over the pumpkin ricotta ravioli carousing in sage brown butter. Elda Orioli, the 88-year-old matriarch of Via Emilia who is affectionately called Nona, insists on making her pastas by hand. She puts on an apron five days a week to make pasta in-house and ensure her family’s traditions are being followed. If you ever wished you had an Italian grandmother, perhaps Via Emilia can fill that vacancy.

Winter 2023

Ghost Hand Pasta, found by way of popups, takes a playful approach to handmade pasta. Head chef Scott Ache, who learned the make-ityourself mindset from his Italian grandmother, finds inspiration for his creations in his collection of horror movies. Ache captured the attention of Houstonians with creatively themed dishes, such as That Scene from the Exorcist — a squid ink tortellini filled with whipped mortadella, tossed in a split pea butter, and finished with crushed wasabi peas, mint and a Calabrian chili crema. Ghost Hand can currently be found at Bad Astronaut Brewing Company, where there’s no shortage of campy movie references. Tucked away in Eastwood, and new to the scene, is Mimo. Sommelier Mike Sammons and chef Fernando Rios (alumni of Weights + Measures and Da Marco) are showcasing their take on handmade pasta, which is buttoned up and approachable at the same time. Chef Rios mastered pasta by first learning the why — why use a certain shape or why dried vs. fresh, etc. He believes that handmade pasta is about instinct and feel and gets a little romantic about his gnocchi. According to Rios, gnocchi should be pillow-like with a whisper of a finger imprint and soft ripples. Mimo’s classic version with marinara, Parmigiano Reggiano and basil is exactly that. If you’re lucky, you might be seated in the record room, which acts like a chef ’s table, complete with a view of the swinging kitchen doors and a vintage vinyl collection to thumb through. At Coltivare, the Heights’ go-to Italian spot, chef Ryan Pera’s vision stems from the onsite garden and other sources close to home. “Eat where you live,” Pera says. Coltivare’s rustic Italian dishes gracefully express the area’s seasonality. One of those seasonal expressions is the rabbit ragù with housemade pappardelle. Another is the fresh ravioli filled with Mozzarella Company ricotta and local pumpkin that's roasted in Coltivare’s wood-burning oven. Pair one of those with a salad featuring local vegetables and you may briefly feel like a garden patio in Houston is an unexplored region of Italy.

THE ARTISANS MAKING AND SELLING FRESH PASTAS

Intimidating as these beloved dishes may seem, fresh pasta is simple and does a wonderful job of speaking for itself with the addition of only a few ingredients. Plus, these area vendors selling handmade pastas make recreating the dish you fell in love with much less daunting. They may even swap recipes with you. MMH Provisions, a husband-and-wife team, currently offer a variety of handmade fettuccines at area farmers markets. Chef Michael Hartley and Miriam Leek-Meira share a background in fine dining, a dedication to scratch-made and represent a classic tale of restaurant romance. The couple met while working at Brasserie 19, fell in love, quit their jobs and started MMH Provisions after buying a stand mixer on a whim. Having spent summers in Brazil as a kid, Leek-Meira brings a touch of her Portuguese roots to MMH. While chef Hartley says he “grew up at his mom’s hip,” where the love of scratch-made cooking was instilled at a very young age. T he y f o c u s on perfecting the balance of bite and texture in their pastas. MMH sources locally and does most of their shopping with neighboring vendors. T heir squ id i n k fettuccine is a nice choice when just a hint of umami is fitting. It’s commonly paired with seafood, but you can break the rules and use it in Asian-inspired dishes — it is after all your kitchen. Squid ink and roasted garlic fettuccines are among the favorites at the farmers markets, but their classic fettuccine shines with the simplest of ingredients. MMH Provisions also sells breads and sauces and those, along with their pasta, reflect their travels and love of good food. DellaCasa Pasta makes quintessential fresh pasta with simplicity and clean ingredients at the forefront. Luisa Obando, the one-woman show who founded the company in 2011, emigrated from Columbia 23 years ago with her two young children, and experienced food culture shock. She vowed to make all-natural fresh pasta without any artificial ingredients, preservatives or dyes, just durum semolina and fresh eggs.

The spinach fettuccine and jalapeño fettuccine are among the most popular varieties and pair well with her scratch-made alfredo sauce. DellaCasa’s bolognese sauce is an old family recipe that requires all hands on deck when it’s prepared. She genuinely loves making it. Obando positions her prized creste di gallo as her kid-friendly option and is ideal for mac and cheese. DellaCasa has evolved over the last few years into mostly wholesale, delivering to over 150 restaurants in Houston, Austin, San Antonio and Dallas. Her pastas are so well received by chefs in Texas, chances are you have enjoyed Obando’s handy work. Her dream of having a retail shop, pasta school and counter service is in the works. As you journey through this pasta crawl, you’re taking home not only delicious pasta but also the experience of the maker’s travels and what they learned by doing.

Top Page: Mimo's Fernando Rios Making Gnocchi Bottom Left: Mimo's Gnocchi Above: Ghost Hand's Scott Ache Making Pasta Top Right: MMH Provisions' Handmade Fettuccines

Kerrisa Treanor is a photographer, writer and illustrator. She loves to create pretty pictures and tell stories, all under the art direction of her two young children, while her husband tolerates her frequent farmers market trips and cooking experiments. kerrisatreanor.com edible HOUSTON 13

Your Dream. My Mission.

DellaCasa Fettuccine with Pistachio and Castelvetrano Gremolata Luisa Obando of DellaCasa is passionate about making and enjoying fresh pasta. Her favorite topic — how to cook fresh pasta properly. Obando’s instructions start with a very rapid boil and always cook pasta in water as salty as the sea. Next, approach the table as Italians do. Your dinner guests should be sitting down at the table, wine in hand, when you boil the pasta. It’s the last crucial step. Lastly, never

WHERE TO FIND FRESH PASTAS FOR YOUR KITCHEN:

commit pasta sin and overcook, 2–3 minutes is all you need for fresh pasta.

MMH Provisions: Urban Harvest Farmers Market Fulshear Farmers Market Nassau Bay Farmers Market Bay Area Saturday Market Rice Village Farmers Market mmhprovisions.com DellaCasa: Tomball Farmers Market Select Central Market locations dellacasapasta.com Casetta Cucina: Urban Harvest Farmers Market Memorial Villages Farmers Market Rice Village Farmers Market Heights Mercantile Farmers Market Select retail locations casettacucina.com BOH Pasta: Local Foods Market Hope Farms mandolafoodco.com Fabio’s Artisan Pasta: 2129 West Alabama Street fabiosartisanpasta.com

Winter 2023

1/4 c.

pistachios, finely chopped

1/4 c.

flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

1/4 c.

Castelvetrano olives, pits removed and roughly chopped

1/4 c.

extra-virgin olive oil

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

1/2 t.

kosher salt, plus more for pasta water

14 oz.

DellaCasa fettuccine

Crushed red pepper flakes, to taste

Parmigiano Reggiano, lots of it

PREPARATION For the gremolata: Finely chop pistachios or pulse in a food processor until fine, but not dust. Chop parsley and olives, and combine with the pistachios, olive oil, lemon juice and zest, and salt.

Catherine York Realtor®

713.471.4575

cyork@greenwoodking.com 3201 Kirby Drive Houston, TX 77098

For the pasta: Bring water to a rapid boil and add a handful of salt. Add pasta and cook for 2–3 minutes. Do not rinse. Remove from water, reserving some of your pasta water. Toss pasta in gremolata to taste, you won’t need all of it for this portion of pasta. In small increments, add a little pasta water and toss until the gremolata is melded with the pasta. Garnish with crushed red pepper and Parmigiano Reggiano. Enjoy immediately.

Left Page: Top: DellaCasa's Pastas Bottom: Top Page: Mimo's Fernando Rios Right Page: DellaCasa Fettuccine with Pistachio and Castelvetrano Gremolata

edible HOUSTON 15

Raised With Care

All natural pork, beef and lamb raised sustainably and humanely by a

community of more than 600 independent family farmers and ranchers

to produce the highest quality meat.

100% Certified Humane® No antibiotics or added hormones—EVER No crates—EVER Raised outdoors and in deeply bedded pens 16

Winter 2023

100% vegetarian feeds

edible HOUSTON 17

What's In Season

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

This Winter

Dark greens galore, including collards, kales, mustard and rainbow chard

Roots rule! Beets, carrots, sunchokes, sweet potatoes, turnips

Cranberry Almond Skillet Cake

Recipe and photos by Pauline Stevens ½ c. unbleached almonds ¼ c. chopped almonds ¼ c. brown sugar 1 c. flour 1 ¼ t. baking pwder ¼ t. salt 1 stick cold, unsalted butter ¼ c. white sugar 3 eggs ¼ t. almond essence 1 t. fresh cranberries (can substitute for frozen) 1 t. fresh thyme Confectioners sugar for decoration

Winter squash, from acorn and buttercup to kabocha and red kuri

PREPARATION Heat oven to 350 degrees. You will need a 10” cast iron skillet. In a food processor,

And as always, pick those ‘P’s: pecans, pomegranates, pumpkin.

grind the almond and brown sugar until fine. Set aside one quarter of mixture for the topping. In a bowl, whisk the remaining almond

Grapefruit, kumquats,

sugar mixture with flour, baking powder

Meyer lemons, oranges,

and salt until blended.

satsuma and other citrus

Mix butter and white sugar together on medium speed until fluffy. Add one egg

For more information on farmers markets, seasonal recipes and what’s in season, visit ediblehouston.com

at a time. Incorporate chopped thyme, chopped almonds and almond essence. With a mixer on its lowest speed, add the flour mixture until smooth. The batter will be thick. Spread it evenly into the cast iron skillet. Distribute the cranberries over the cake, sprinkle the reserved almond sugar mixture. Bake the cake for 45-50 minutes until a skewer comes out clean. Sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar and fresh thyme.

Winter 2023

edible HOUSTON 19

Cranberry Citrus Spicy Relish Recipe and photos by Pauline Stevens Serves 4

1 small navel orange, julienned 2 small lemon peels, julienned 3 c. fresh cranberries coarsely chopped 1 fresh pepperoncini pepper, chopped Modify pepper to serrano or jalapeño for a more spicy flavor 11/2 T. coarse pepper ¼ c. honey 2 T. lemon juice Salt to taste PREPARATION Mix ingredients, modify honey, salt and pepper to taste. Let sit for one hour before serving. Use it to accompany your turkey on Thanksgiving and to make salmon and fish more delicious.

Beside her passion for photography, Pauline Stevens enjoys traveling and baking. She also visits every possible farmers market, even between frequent visits to NYC where her quadruplet sons live. Follow her store on IG @redbirdshouse.

Winter 2023

edible HOUSTON 21

Gift Guide

Cornucopia Popcorn

Shop these local gifts

Popped locally in Austin, TX. using Non-GMO corn & a little love. Get 10% off using code Edible10 $30-$80 PopcornDelivery.com

New Canaan Farms

Stunning gift boxes custom filled with handcrafted jams, salsas and sauces from Utopia, Texas. From $35 newcanaanfarms.com

William Chris Wine Co. The Fancy Marshmallow Co. Indulge in a marshmallow wonderland this holiday season with The Fancy Marshmallow Co.! From delectable marshmallow treats to holiday-themed goodies, their locally made, gift-ready delights are sure to sweeten your celebrations. Gifts start at $10 thefancymarshmallowco.com

Hill Country Holiday Pack William Chris Vineyards 2022 Mary Ruth 2020 Enchanté Winter Wonder Pack Glorious Gifting Pack William Chris Vineyards Lost Draw 2022 Cinsaut Rosé, La Pradera Vineyard 2020 Tempranillo, Texas Hill Country 2020 Hunter 2022 Marsanne, Timmons Estate Vineyard shop.williamchriswines.com

A world-class culinary college in the heart of a UNESCO-recognized Creative City of Gastronomy. Cook, learn, think, and eat like a chef under the guidance of CIA’s expert chef-instructors. ciafoodies.com/tx-classes

Blinking Owl Acres - Holistic Self-Care Gifts

Edible Houston 1 Year Subscription

Houston Wine Merchant Whether shopping for a present or a party, we are your home for exceptional Champagnes, Wines, and Specialty Spirits. Visit us at 2646 S. Shepherd Drive. Call 713-524-3397 or shop online at houstonwines.com

Winter 2023

Makeup, skincare, foot care. Everything made locally from the highest quality ingredients, with so much love. Gift Sets $30 - $72 blinkingowlacres.com

Gift the Ultimate Foodie Experience with a Multi-Day Boot Camp or Single-Day Class at The Culinary Institute of America San Antonio

4 issues of the best of local Houston ediblehouston.com

Griller Package Windy Bar Beef

100% locally raised and fed in the Texas Hill Country. Quarters and halves also available. Starts at $165 windybarbeef.com

The Bloody Buddy

The first premixed Bloody Mary product made in Texas is available at local wine and spirits stores and online. thebloodybuddy.com edible HOUSTON 23

FARMERS DIARY

Making Waves

“Oysters on the ranches are filtering water that improves ecosystem health and creating fish habitat. Everyone wins if they are successful.” Dr. Joe Fox

HOW TEXAS OYSTER FARMS ARE POISED TO BRING MORE BELOVED BIVALVES TO OUR TABLES

WORDS BY MM PACK | PHOTOS BY SONYA SELLERS

exas oyster lovers, rejoice! There’s a new day dawning on the Gulf Coast. From Galveston to Corpus Christi, newly permitted oyster farms (sometimes called “ranches” in timehonored Texas fashion) are springing up along the coast. As they become established and productive, they will provide more of these tasty bivalves for Texas tables and oyster bars, supplementing the traditionally harvested oysters dredged from the bottom of local bays. From Maritime Canada to the Gulf of Mexico, Crassostrea virginica (Eastern oyster) is the American native species that thrives in areas where saltwater and freshwater converge — marshes, estuaries and bays. For millennia, they’ve provided nourishment to Atlantic and Gulf coastal inhabitants. In Texas, Indigenous Karankawa and Atakapa peoples left mounds of oyster shells that remain to this day. These same oysters are now being raised on Texas oyster farms. While farming oysters — or oyster mariculture — is just getting started in Texas, it’s hardly a new concept. It was practiced in China in the fourth century B.C.E. Ancient Romans enjoyed oysters so much that they established farms in British waters to supply Roman banquet tables. Modern oyster cultivation methods evolved in Europe and the U.S. in the 19th century as natural oyster beds became depleted from over-harvesting and pollution. Today, according to Monterey Bay Seafood Watch, farmed oysters account for approximately 95 percent of oyster consumed in the world. Hannah Kaplan, co-founder and vice-president of Barrier Beauties on Galveston Bay, is an unlikely pioneer in Texas oyster farming. Her background is in hospitality and commercial real estate and, having grown up in a kosher household, she’d never eaten an oyster until Barrier Beauties’ first harvest in 2022. During the pandemic, she and her father, Houston businessman Joe Kaplan, became interested in

Winter 2023

opening a newly legal sustainable oyster farm on the Texas coast. They spent six months visiting farms and hatcheries in other parts of the country, researching methods and equipment, and learning the state’s requirements and regulations. In 2021, having leased a suitable location and fulfilled the complex application requirements, Barrier Beauties was granted the second permit to farm oysters in the state. “I’ve always wanted my own business, and the sustainability factor of farmed oysters was an important consideration for me,” Kaplan says. “Finding the right location is critical, and the conditions on our farm are perfect. Our oysters are very happy there.” In the summer of 2023, Barrier Beauties “planted” 1.6 million baby oysters, which should take 7–10 months to mature. Although oyster farms are well established in Florida, Mississippi, Alabama and Louisiana, Texas was the last Gulf Coast state to sanction oyster mariculture. In 2019, the Texas Legislature unanimously passed House Bill 1300 to legalize it. The new law granted the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD) authority to develop and regulate a program. Legislators were persuaded by the efforts of various interested groups, including marine researchers who emphasized the need to augment the declining wild oyster population and improve coastal ecology. (It didn’t hurt the cause that funds from the BP Deepwater Horizon settlement were available.) TPWD also regulates the commercial oyster fishery that harvests from seabeds along the coast. This once thriving industry has taken serious hits from hurricanes, droughts and industrial pollution, and yields have declined steadily as demand increases. In recent years, TPWD has regularly closed oyster beds to allow the reefs — important components of marine health — to rejuvenate, rebuild and recover from weather incidents.

Left Page: Middle Left: Sorting and inspecting farmed oysters at Barrier Beauties Bottom Right: Barrier Beauties oyster farm on Galveston Bay

Right Page: Mesh bag used to grow farmed oysters at Barrier Beauties edible HOUSTON 25

Dr. Joe Fox, formerly of Texas A&M University-Corpus Christi and now the executive director of the Palacios Marine Agricultural Research Institute (PMARI), is widely considered the father of Texas oyster mariculture. He was instrumental in getting the 2019 legislation passed. “A healthy aquaculture industry takes pressure off the commercial fishery, conserving reefs, creating new jobs and adding to the coastal economy,” says Fox. “At the same time, oysters on the ranches are filtering water that improves ecosystem health and creating fish habitat. Everyone wins if they are successful.” To aid that success, PMARI is establishing a Texas hatchery in Palacios. Hatcheries are controlled oyster breeding operations where adult oysters, or broodstock, spawn to produce millions of eggs that grow into larvae and then into the juvenile seed oysters that will be raised on the farms. Up to this time, Texas farmers needed to transport their broodstock to hatcheries in Alabama or Mississippi and then bring the babies back to grow to maturity in their native waters. Farmed oysters are typically bred to be sterile, which means that their energy is spent, not on reproduction, but on growing larger and faster. Texas oysters must be a minimum of 2.5 inches to be legally harvested, and farmed oysters can reach this size in as little as seven months. Wild or cultivated, oysters feed on phytoplankton or algae suspended in the water. They open and close hinged shells, filtering food from the water passing through their gills. They play a critical role in the ecology of their surrounding waters. As it feeds, a single oyster can clean up to 50 gallons of sea water a day. Unlike other seafood farming operations, oysters are not fed through human intervention; they eat the same food and in the same way that wild oysters do.

Obtaining an oyster farm permit is somewhat arduous. While TPWD issues the permit, it must also be approved by the Texas Commission on Environmental Quality, the Texas General Land Office, the U.S. Coast Guard, and in some cases, the Army Corps of Engineers. The regulations include a farm’s minimum distance from sea grass and wild oyster beds and use of only locally sourced broodstock and approved equipment. Although extensive, the stringent regulations are designed to avoid genetic contamination and to maintain the highest standards of marine ecology. The first Texas oyster farmer to obtain a permit was Brad Lomax, owner of the Water Street Oyster Bar in Corpus Christi, who was very involved in getting House Bill 1300 passed. In honor of that G-0001 permit, the oysters from his Texas Oyster Ranch on Copano Bay are called Copano Unos. David Aparicio of DJ’s Oyster Company near Palacios earned the third permit. His oysters are called Matagorda Pearls. Currently, there are 13 Texas oyster farms that are fully or conditionally permitted, ranging in size from two to 30 acres. The Barrier Beauties oyster farm floats at the surface of Galveston Bay about seven nautical miles from Bolivar Peninsula. Picture a sevenacre grid of posts and wires, with rows of attached bulky mesh bags that contain growing oysters. This is one of the approved methods for raising off-bottom oysters. Almost daily, general manager Gordon Lipscomb and a handful of employees go out in a bay boat, maneuver among the floating bags and perform the hard physical work required to maintain oyster health and well-being. They regularly lift the 50- to 80-pound bags into the boat, clean the bags, inspect the oysters and divide them into additional bags so they’ll have room to grow. “These are animals, this is the ocean, conditions change, and you can control only so much,” says Lipscomb. “You need to be out there every day, keeping a close eye on things and making adjustments as needed.” At least twice during their lives, the oysters are hauled back to the company’s boat dock, where they are tumbled in a rotating contraption that rounds out their rough edges, promoting more uniform size and development of a deeper cup (the bottom shell).

As wine is defined by its terroir, oysters have merroir. The environment where oysters are raised is what primarily differentiates their various qualities. The mineral and salt content of the water, available food, and water temperatures all affect taste and texture. Traditionally, oysters are named for the place where they grow — like Malpeques from Prince Edward Island or Murder Points from Alabama — with each locale providing a distinctive flavor profile. Texas wild oyster reefs have identifying names, but in recent times, this naming convention hasn’t been used much for Texas oysters. That’s changing as Copano Unos, Matagorda Pearls and Barrier Beauties identify their farmed locations. As more farms continue to develop and begin harvesting, there will be more named oysters from coastal locations. In early 2023, Carol Huntsberger, owner of Austin-based Quality Seafood restaurant and wholesale operation, hosted a tasting of farmed oysters for Austin restaurateurs and food professionals. Brad Lomax, Hannah Kaplan and David Aparicio were there to introduce their oysters and talk about the new mariculture industry in Texas. “People could definitely discern taste differences among the oysters from the different farms,” Huntsberger says. “This industry is in its infancy, and it’s exciting to be involved at the ground level of something so brand new. Quality Seafood has a goal to support the Texas economy and this is one way we can do that.” Chris TenEyck, chief culinary officer of Jack Allen’s Kitchen and Salt Traders Coastal Cooking in Austin and Round Rock, has been an early supporter of Texas oyster mariculture and is enthusiastic about their future gastronomic possibilities. “How cool will it be a few years down the line when you can order a flight of Texas oysters and compare them, knowing by their names what farm on what part of the coast they come from?” he says. “It’s going to take time, but we are so looking forward to this; oyster farmers are sitting on a goldmine, something really special. We’re excited to be a part of it, and we want to help customers learn about farmed oysters on our coast.” So, oyster lovers of Texas, start looking for farmed oysters on restaurant menus near you. As you enjoy their distinct merroir, also appreciate the dedicated hard work that brings them to your table and remember the role oysters play in maintaining the health of Texas’ coastal waters.

Left: Hannah Kaplan of Barrier Beauties photo by Lightbulb League Right: Barrier Beauties oysters

Gordon Lipscomb of Barrier Beauties

Winter 2023

MM Pack, a fifth-generation Texan with deep roots in Harris and Brazoria counties, writes about food and food history and splits her time between the Texas Gulf Coast and San Francisco. edible HOUSTON 27

Dining Destination

SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE

WIMBERLEY OFFERS CHARMING SPACES AND ECLECTIC OPTIONS

WORDS BY ASHLEY BROWN

CASA V If you’re heading into Wimberley from Jobell, just a mile and a half south on RR12, you’ll want to stop into Casa V (open Thursdays through Sundays) to pick up a bottle of wine to take home with you for a special occasion. Casa V is a tasting room where you’ll find a unique selection of very carefully and lovingly chosen wines by owner Nancy Sallaberry. As you sip on the day’s offerings, Sallaberry will tell you all about where each wine comes from, why she chose to carry it, and what else you might like given your particular tastes. Unlike other bars in the area, Casa V celebrates primarily European wines made by small, family-owned vineyards. casavindemia.com

en years ago, Wimberley would not have been considered a food destination. Yes, it boasted a few tasting rooms serving primarily Texas wine, and there were a handful of restaurants the locals counted on. But to f ind variety…or something open a little later…or a handcrafted cocktail, you’d have to head to San Marcos or Austin. That is definitely not the case anymore. These days it’s tough to keep up with all of the options, each bringing something unique to the town. You now need more than a full weekend to hit up all of the great eateries and drinkeries. Here are just some of our favorites to start with.

THE LEANING PEAR “The Pear,” as it's affectionately known, has been a Wimberley institution since 2006. It’s one of a the handful of restaurants that’s long been the place for delicious food in a beautiful setting, atop a bluff overlooking a meadow along Cypress Creek. Having moved into a new space in 2013, the environmentally sensitive design concept is the perfect mix of clean, modern, and rustic. The spacious interior features tall ceilings and plenty of windows looking out onto the meadow and woods. Outside, in addition to garden beds of herbs and large rainwater collection tanks (that are actually visually appealing), there are a number of tables on the shaded porch, family-friendly picnic tables on a lower level, and the beloved “treehouse,” a small semi-enclosed indoor/outdoor dining area among the trees. The eclectic menu has something for everybody from seasonal soups and always-scrumptious salads to sandwiches and wood-fired pizzas. If you’re craving comfort food, you can choose from Mac & Cheese, Meatloaf, Chicken & Grits, or The Crab Cake. They offer a great wine and beer selection, and, in exciting news, this winter they’ll be expanding their bar menu! leaningpear.com JOBELL CAFÉ & BISTRO Jobell Café & Bistro was like a gift to Wimberley, bestowed by David and Jessenia Bober, eight years ago after they moved their family from New York City to bring their dream of opening a small, creative, locally sourced restaurant to life. At the time, there weren’t many “romantic” dining options where ambience and design are just as important as the menu. The bistro combines local rustic character — ref lecting its charming woodsy surroundings — with the European flavor of little sophisticated bistros David and Jess loved in New York. The space, both inside and out on the patio among the trees and twinkle lights, exudes a spirit of family, friendliness, and intimacy while also offering a lovely, relatively upscale dining experience. Jobell is located on RR 12, just north of town. Whether you choose to dine al fresco, or inside where you can enjoy a cozy atmosphere — including a fireplace — you’ll want to start with an order of the Crispy Thai Chili Brussels Sprouts. If you think you don’t like brussels sprouts, give these a try and think again! In addition to tasty salads and soups, the menu features a wide variety of entrees from Steak Diane and Smoked Duck Breast to Shepherd’s Pie. And they always have at least one seasonal vegetarian option. If you’re on your way into, or out of, town on a Sunday, Jobell is the

perfect place for a traditional brunch. Relax with a mimosa — or a glass of wine from their carefully curated list — and fuel up with Chicken and Waffles, Eggs Benedict or The Lox (among many other options). jobellcafe.com

Winter 2023

RR12 THE SUPPER CLUB The RR12 Supper Club offers a dining experience like no other in town. Its beautiful décor — marble bar, chandeliers, green leather booths, warm lighting — attentive staff dressed in formal all-black attire, and eclectic yet traditional steakhouse-esque menu make this a true fine-dining supper club. And it is an actual club, where members enjoy perks like unlimited free drinks and one members-only night a week (Tuesdays). Outside of Tuesdays, anyone is welcome, though reservations are highly encouraged. This is not a place to pop by for sustenance. This is a place to luxuriate in the ritual of dining. In fact, there’s even a note at the top of the menu: “At your Supper Club, we take pride that all our menu items are fresh and made to order. Your dining experience may last anywhere from 1½ to 2½ hours, during which we hope you will enjoy the atmosphere and the pleasure of your guest's company.” While the interior is stunning, there’s also a lovely patio underneath a large oak tree, lit up with twinkle lights, where you can dine al fresco and enjoy the cool night air with a stiff drink from the elaborate bar menu. The entrée menu features prime steak, fresh seafood and pasta. If you want to check this place out but aren’t ready or able to indulge in the full dining experience, visit at lunchtime — the extensive menu of “The Carvery” offers equally delicious options but with a slightly more casual flare (and lower price). supperclubstx.com

RANCH BRAND WINE & SPIRITS One of the most recent additions to the Wimberley eatery and drinking scene is Ranch Brand Wine & Spirits. Walking distance from the Square on RR 12, this is an ideal spot to take a break from shopping and relax with a snack and a sip. The intimate interior has a classy, modern ranch-style vibe with its whitewashed barnwood walls and warm Southwestern décor. The staff, and the patrons you’ll find there, are always friendly, and the tasting room radiates that “where-everyone-knows-your-name” vibe. Christopher Ware and West Stone brought the restaurant and bar to Wimberley, in addition to their own brand of wine and spirits. Since 2020, Ranch Brand has introduced a diverse range of spirits, including vodkas, gins, rums, bourbons and liqueurs. Axis Jack, Catch & Release, and Cosmic Armadillo were their first wines to showcase small-batch Texas varieties in collaboration with local vineyards through “custom crush” capabilities, and they’ve continued to come out with new varieties, both red and white. The food menu features about 10 options that vary seasonally, though regular favorites are the Cowboy Caviar, out-of-this world Burrata Ball with a balsamic glaze and sea salt, and a uniquely delicious hummus served with buttery slices of baguette and/or pita depending on the day. You can also find heartier sandwiches, as well as nachos, that serve as a full meal. ranchbrands.com

WIMBERLEY INN + BAR A great place to end your night, especially if you’re staying there, the Wimberley Inn + Bar offers a relatively quiet, beautiful spot to indulge in one last cocktail and nibble. The bar feels like an intimate, cozy but classy living room, with a little library on the other side of the entry, where you can take a drink, peruse the books and relax on the velvet benches. Renovated and reopened in early 2021, the Wimberley Inn & Bar stands out from the rustic crowd as a modern take on small-town Texas. While the interior is lovely, as is the case with so many spots in Wimberley, it’s rea lly about the patio, where you can settle in among the oak trees lit up with Christmas lights year-round. The cocktail menu is all about delighting in the best local ingredients. It features some Wimberley spins on classic favorites, like the Wimm’s Cup — Pimm's #1, lemon, simple syrup, fruit bitters, ginger ale, strawberries, cucumber, orange and mint — and Fancy Ass Ranch Water, a jazzed-up version of this popular drink including muddled cucumber, cilantro and jalapeño. Just about every cocktail is enhanced with the freshness of herbs like rosemary, basil or mint. If you are ending your evening here, you might also be interested in a dessert cocktail, like their Boozy Hot Cocoa or Spiced Pear Mule and maybe a cheese plate! And when you wake up the next day, you can head right back to enjoy their special brunch menu, available on Saturdays and Sundays. wimberleyinn.com

SIP! ON THE SQUARE If you’re spending a day, or weekend in Wimberley, you’re definitely going to want to stop into Sip! On The Square for an energy boost. Smack in the middle of the Square, next door to the Wimberley Café (another Wimberley institution with a diner-style vibe and menu), Sip! is the perfect spot to take a break from milling around. Often, when you walk in, you’ll be met with the aroma of freshly baked chocolate chip cookies coming out of the oven, and you may find yourself tempted by the selection of cookies, scones and muffins. No matter what, one of their lattes or cappuccinos is a must. Their espresso is so good, this Wimberleyite has been spoiled and no longer really enjoys lattes from any other coffee shop. For a unique treat, try the Turmeric and Spice Latte (it doesn’t come with caffeine, so if you want that energy boost, ask to add a shot or two). During the holiday season, the Pumpkin Spice Latte is always a great go-to, and it’s not overly sweet. The Mayan Mocha and Mexican-Spice Mocha are also decadent ways to get a pick-me-up. Whatever your pleasure, the super friendly staff at Sip! is always happy to make recommendations and help tailor your beverage just to your liking. siponthesquare.com LONGLEAF CRAFT KITCHEN + BAR Despite its convenient location right in the middle of the bustling Square, Longleaf Craft Kitchen + Bar is a charming oasis with a beautiful bar area inside, and what might be the most peaceful restaurant courtyard in town. You don’t want to come here if you’re in a rush. Sit down, relax, make a friend if you’re sitting at the bar, and please order the Fried Olives appetizer! If you eat nothing else, these delightful little balls of crunchy brininess are the perfect snack to go with whatever drink you choose from the extensive cocktail menu or wine list. Bartender Fletcher Wright has made quite a name for himself, having won 12th place in an international cocktail competition with his Lord of the Rings inspired cocktail made with Laphroaig Scotch. Fletcher also won the Flor de Cana's Sustainable Cocktail Competition with his Hill Country Huerta. While you could make a meal out of the apps — from the olives to the Hangtown Deviled Eggs topped with fried oysters to the Bruschetta with fresh local tomatoes, mozzarella and kalamata olives — there are plenty of satiating entrees to choose from, like the Red Snapper, Eggplant Parmesan or Lasagna (Wagyu Beef or Vegetable). With its charming setting and satisfying menu, it’s no surprise Longleaf was recently featured in an episode of Outside Watch’s Road Less Eaten, in which “Chef Biju Thomas connects with his outdoor adventure-loving friends in their hometowns to find some of the town’s best apres eats.” longleafwimberley.com Left Page: Top: Photo by Casa V Middle: Photo by The Leaning Pear Bottom Left: Photo by Jobell Bottom Right: The Supper Club

Right Page: Top Left: Photos by Ranch Brand Bottom Left: Photo by Wimberley Inn + Bar Top Middle: Photo of Morgan by Sip! Top Right: Photo by Longleaf Craft Kitchen

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Welcome to

Wimberley

RR12 SUPPER CLUB OF WIMBERLEY WHERE YOU BELONG

Enter nostalgia - where supper club has long been celebrated as an American tradition. A finely cooked meal complemented by a stiff drink in a warm atmosphere highlights the weekly regimen that will have you coming back at the same time next week. www.supperclubstx.com 512.610.1677 @rr12supperclubofwimberley

Discover the Hill Country in Every Sip – Ranch Brand Wine & Spirits: Where Flavor Meets Tradition. Visit Our Tasting Room in the Village of Wimberley Today for Unforgettable Tastes and Memories. Open 7 Days a Week! Join us in the village of Wimberley at 13619 Ranch Road 12, TX 78676.

What we offer: • • • • • •

220artgallery

www.220gallery.com

220 OLD KYE RD.

WIMBERLEY, TX

Premium Fine Wines Artisanal Handcrafted Spirits Full Cocktail Menu Extensive Wine Tasting & Retail Freshly Prepared Tapas Kid-Friendly Mocktails

art@220gallery.com

Open 7 days a week, Ranch Brand is

OPEN DAILY

your destination for quality drinks

THE LEANING PEAR Unique.

and memorable moments.

Hill Country -inspired Cuisine

Well-crafted. Unique. Well Crafted. Delicious. Delicious.

111 river road, Wimberley

Hill Country-Inspired Cuisine

MULTI-AWARD WINNING NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PHOTOGRAPHER

FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHY UNIQUE GIFTS SPECIAL EVENTS

13620 Ranch Rd 12 Wimberley TX 78676 512.289.2472 rodneybursiel.com rbursiel@yahoo.com

512-847-pear 111 River leaningpear .Com Road Wimberley TX 512-847-PEAR leaningpear.com

Winter 2023

Visit us at www.ranchbrands.com or on social media @ranchbrandwineandspirits or email us at info@ranchbrands.com edible HOUSTON 31

Winter 2023

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Experienced Agent, Exceptional Service.

Susanne Wheat Stiles Top Realtor® 713.408.7158 sstiles@greenwoodking.com LD

Winter 2023

819 Lamonte

1131 Peddie

626 E. 26th