Edible Indy Summer 2012 | No. 5

edible Indy ®

Celebrating the Local Food Culture of Central Indiana, Season by Season Summer 2012 • Number 5

Things Are Looking Upland Beer From Right Here Here’s The Scoop Member of Edible Communities

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Contents

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Hoosier Thoughts

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From The Good Earth Wild Things

Farmers’ Market Directory / In Season Notable Edibles Closing the beer-and-beef cycle, Local food finds a home at the fair, Book to offer Indiana smorgasbord, Nicey Treats offers cool lick on a stick

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Chefs, Growers Pair up for “Dig In” Local Heroes Picky Home Crowd Inspires Tasty Takeout at Avec Moi

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Loving Spoonfuls Cool As A Cucumber

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Corn, Chilled (Not Grilled) Edible Traditions Here’s The Scoop

38 39 40

Edible Events Advertising Directory Last Bite Strawberry Shortcake Gets A Makeover The Savvy Home Gardner’s Favorite Tools

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Liquid Assets Things Are Looking Upland: For Bloomington Brewing Company, Craft Beer And Local Food Go Hand In Hand

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Worth The Trip Beer From Right Here

On The Cover: Korean beef short ribs sliced and tucked into lettuce wraps with kimchi, recipe starts on page 15. Photo by Chelsea Sanders.

Upland Brewing Co. throws a summer picnic. Story and recipes start on page 12. Photo by Chelsea Sanders.

Recipe Index

6 Chilled Cucumber Soup • 8 Sweet Corn And Three-Berry Ice Cream • 15 Kalbi • 16 Kimchi • 18 Carrot & Radish Slaw • 20 Old-Fashioned Pie Dough • 20 Blackberry Pie Filling • 19 Goat Cheese Sorbet • 19 Fennel Salad • 17 Sweet Potato Pickles • 17 Farmers’ Market Lemonade • 29 Raw-Some Mulberry Pie • 40 Living Strawberry Shortcake

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edibleIndy Publisher Edible Indy, LLC President Cathy Bayse Editor-in-Chief Helen Workman

hoosier Thoughts

I

had the occasion last month to visit Iceland. I was prepared for few hours of daylight, below-freezing temperatures and few or no fresh vegetables to consume.

On the 45-minute trip to downtown Reykjavik from the airport, I looked outside the cab and wondered where I would find any fresh anything—other than fish—to eat.

Managing Editor Erica Sagon Copy Editor Doug Adrianson Designer Melissa Petersen Web Design Mary Ogle Social Media Kathleen Blotsky Ad Design Bob Keller Contributors Audrey Barron • Chris Collins • Erin Day Marcia Ellett • Cassie Johnston • Amy Lynch Andie Marshall • Shawndra Miller Caroline Mosey • Keith Roach Erica Sagon Photography Summer Cooper • Nathan DuBow Kristin Hess • Cassie Johnston Leah Profancik Photography Christina Richey • Chelsea Sanders Whonsetler Photography Carole Topalian • Helen Workman Illustrations Bambi Edlund • Julia Rickles Advertise Cathy Bayse • 317-694-6248 cathy@edibleindy.com Subscribe Give a Gift www.edibleindy.com • info@edibleindy.com Contact us Edible Indy 8715 Washington Blvd. W. Drive, Indianapolis, IN 46240 317-292-1693 • info@edibleindy.com

Edible Indy publishes quarterly by Edible Indy, LLC. All rights reserved. Summer, Fall, Winter, Spring Subscription $32 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher © 2012. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If, however, an error has escaped our attention, please notify us and accept our sincere apologies.

The land out the right-hand window was barren, volcanic and strewn with black rock, and out the left-hand window was water as far as I could see. An island as large as Kentucky with a total population of 300,000—200,000 of whom reside in its capital city, Reykjavik, which is as beautiful as any homeland. Its beauty struck me in a similar way as the deserts of Arizona do…totally unlike our green pastures and sycamores of Indiana.

A thought struck me: What if I were an Edible publisher in Iceland? What would I write about? What is fresh and what is local? As I walked the streets of Reykjavik, I came upon a little shop/restaurant with the sign (pictured on the right) out front on a sandwich board.

I was amazed to learn that Icelanders have plenty of natural resources from which to draw.

They do have an active farm life, albeit much of its food is cultivated in greenhouses— tomatoes, cucumbers, rutabaga, cabbage, turnips, potatoes, peppers and bananas (yes, bananas!) are plentiful. Blueberries and rhubarb grow wild in the backyards. Icelanders eat moss and scurvy grass, rich in vitamin C, since they cannot grow any citrus fruits.

The sea provides a multitude of goodies. In addition to the wonderful fish there is seaweed, used in salad, sauces, soups and bread! Other indigenous proteins consumed by islanders are beef, lamb, reindeer, seabirds and horse. My husband and I could not bring ourselves to eat Rudolph or my friend Flicka, but the islanders do and have for years.

The water one drinks is called the “champagne of the north.” It is perfect—sparkling, clear and delicious—and is considered among the purest in the world. Another natural wonder is the geothermal energy—used to heat homes, grow food and even cook it. An island favorite is Hverabraud, a sweet rye bread baked in the thermal hot springs in the ground for 10 hours!

I found myself jealous of the pesticide-free environment (the weather is cold enough to kill anything up there), the fabulous water, the cheap heat and the laid-back attitude of the people—I didn’t see many people with a cell phone stuck to their ear or fingers madly texting. But I did “long for my Indiana home” and the advent of summer. For the abundance of fresh tomatoes, corn and melons; the promise of backyard barbecues and homemade ice cream and Indiana beer; and the gathering of family and friends to share in the bounty of Indiana summer.

As you read these pages, my hope is you savor Indiana’s bounty, that you are content to buy from local producers and that, if your travels take you to exotic spots, you return to our state with renewed love for your Hoosier home.

edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

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Summer 2012

farmers’ markets

directory

38th and Meridian Farmers’ Market

Columbus Farmer’s Market

Harvest Market at the Fairgrounds

Thursdays, 4–6:30pm 3808 N. Meridian St., Indianapolis

Saturdays 9am–12:30pm, 5th and Brown St., Columbus • columbusfarmersmarket.org

Avon Farmers’ Market

Cumberland Farmers’ Market

Tuesdays, 4–7pm 8244 E. U.S. Highway 36, Avon (Hendricks Regional Health) • hendricks.org

Saturdays, 8am–noon, 11501 E. Washington St., Cumberland • town.cumberland.in.us

Saturdays, 8am–noon and Wednesdays (starting in July), 8am– noon, 620 N. Apple St., Greenfield hancockharvestcouncil.com

Bloomingfoods East Market Wednesday and Saturday mornings, all year round for any growers to show up. bloomingfoods.coop

Bloomington Community Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–1pm, Located in the parking lot of the Showers building on Morton St., Bloomington. bloomington.in.gov/farmersmarket

Irvington Farmers’ Market Danville Chamber of Commerce Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–noon, Danville Courthouse Square, Danville • danville-chamber.org

Farmers’ Market at City Market Wednesdays, 9:30am–1:30pm, 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis • indycm.com

The Fishers Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–noon, Fishers Train Station grounds • fisherschamber.com

Broad Ripple Farmers’ Market

Franklin Farmers’ Market

Saturdays, 8am–noon Located behind Broad Ripple High School, Indianapolis • broadripplefarmersmarket.org

Saturdays, 8–11am West Jefferson and South Jackson streets, Franklin • discoverdowntownfranklin.com

Binford Farmers’ Market

Geist Farmers’ Market

Saturdays, 8am–1pm, 62nd and Binford Blvd., Indianapolis binfordfarmersmarket.com

Thursdays, 2:30pm-6:30pm, 8115 Oaklandon Rd., Indianapolis geistfarmersmarket.com

Carmel Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8–11:30am, 5 Center Green, Carmel • carmelfarmersmarket.com

Community Farmers’ Market of Owen County Saturdays, 8am–noon, Courthouse Square, Spencer • farmersmarketowencounty.com

Green Market at Traders Point Creamery Fridays, 4–8pm, 9101 Moore Road, Zionsville tpforganics.com

Greenwood Farmers’ Market

Second Sundays, Noon–3pm Ellenberger Park in Irvington, Indianapolis irvingtongardenclub.com

NoblesvilleFarmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–12:30pm Riverview Hospital overflow parking lot Corner of St. Rd 32 and St. Rd 19, Noblesville

Saxony Market Saturdays, 8am–noon 131st St. and Olio Rd., Fishers saxony-indiana.com/market

Stadium Village Farmers’ Market Tuesdays, 4–7pm 801 S. Meridian St., Indianapolis stadiumvillagefarmersmarket.com

Westfield Farmers’ Market Fridays, 4–8pm, North Union Street next to City Hall, Westfield • dwna.org

Zionsiville Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8-11am, At the corner of Main and Hawthorne streets. www.zionsvillefarmersmarket.org

Saturdays, 8am–noon 310 S. Meridian St., Greenwood For info, search Greenwood Farmers’ Market on Facebook

in Season Herbs Basil • Chives • Mint • Oregano • Parsley • Rosemary • Sage • Tarragon • Thyme Fruits Apples • Blackberries • Blueberries • Cantaloupe • Grapes • Peaches • Plums • Raspberries Strawberries • Watermelon Vegetables Bell Peppers • Broccoli • Brussels Sprouts • Carrots • Cauliflower • Collard Greens Cucumbers • Eggplant • Hot Peppers • Mushrooms • Potatoes • Snap Beans • Spinach • Summer Squash Sweet Corn • Sweet Peppers • Tomatoes

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notable edibles Nicey Treat offers cool lick on a stick

Closing the beer-and-beef cycle Sometimes a beer and a burger are the perfect combo for a warm summer night out on the patio. So what happens when the burger is the beer?

That’s the general idea behind a partnership between Sun King Brewing and a small family farm up in Thorntown. Beer Barrel Beef raises its pharmaceutical-free cattle on shady pastures for direct-to-consumer sales. But along with being pasture-raised, these lucky cows get to munch on Sun King’s mash—the stuff left over after the brewing process.

Jeff Patrick sells popsicles with a smile. Photo by Helen Workman.

Cool customers are keeping their eyes peeled for Nicey Treat, one of Indy’s newest mobile food operations. This isn’t any old truck: Owner Jeff Patrick peddles—and pedals—his frozen fruit and dairy pops with a bike-pulled freezer cart.

Nicey Treat is the first foray into food service for Patrick, a videographer by trade. He says making freezer pops from wholesome ingredients (organic and locally sourced whenever possible) seemed a natural fit.

“My grandfather was in the dairy business in Seymour, and when my brothers and I would go visit him, the first thing we’d always do was raid his freezer for fudgsicles, popsicles and creamsicles,” Patrick says.

Two to three times a week, farm owner Judi Thomas-Sheerer heads to Sun King to pick up the mash and deliver beef. And the cycle continues.

“We call it cow candy,” Thomas-Sheerer says. “Our girls love it, and it helps them have lots of rich milk to feed their calves.”

The beer mash adds something delicious to the beef, ThomasSheerer says. Sun King wins, too.

“We try for the most sustainable practices possible here,” says owner Clay Robinson. “The ability for spent grain to be utilized by local farmers is fantastic.”

Find Beer Barrel Beef on Facebook and localharvest.org.

Details: 8511 N. 200 W., Thorntown; 765-516-2194.

—Chris Collins

When Patrick was in Mexico a few years ago, a taste of paletas (icy fruit pops) brought those childhood memories flooding back, and the inspiration for Nicey Treat was born. Patrick has put a modern stamp on the traditional popsicles of his youth with his own creative flavor combinations like strawberry mint, blueberry buttermilk, pineapple basil, creamy avocado, not-so-hot chocolate and the Arnie P. (a blend of lemonade and black tea).

Patrick’s all set to sell pops at summertime events like Zoobilation, and also hopes to make regular appearances in White River State Park.

Check niceytreat.com or Twitter (@niceytreat) for an up-todate schedule and locations.

—Amy Lynch

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Summer 2012

Book to offer Indiana smorgasbord

Local food finds a home at the fair Fair food is getting a local focus at the 2012 Indiana State Fair with the addition of the DuPont Food Pavilion.

Clear your coffee table for a book that will make your kitchen table jealous.

Created to showcase and celebrate Indiana food and those who grow it, produce it and prepare it, the pavilion will feature a market, a state-of-the-art demonstration kitchen and a Purdue University–run interactive exhibit focusing on health and wellness and telling Indiana’s food story from farm to fork.

Food for Thought: An Indiana Harvest, due in August, is a collection of first-person essays from more than 60 farmers, restaurateurs and others who are a part of our state’s food scene. Food in Indiana has never been better, the book says.

Local chefs will give daily cooking demonstrations on the hour, and fairgoers can interact with food artisans while sampling locally made goodies. Food enthusiasts will find the pavilion market well stocked with tasty products all made within Indiana borders.

Essayists include Regina Food for Thought includes an essay Mehallick of R Bistro in from Becky Hostetter of Indy's Indianapolis; Jesus AlDuos Food Truck. varez, a Mexican immigrant known as “the pierogi king” of Whiting; Aster Bekele, who reaches out to disadvantaged kids with her urban garden in Indianapolis; and Judy Schad of Capriole Farmstead Goat Cheeses in Greenville.

Keep an eye out for homemade salsas, jellies and jams from Two Cookin’ Sisters of Brookston; all-natural, vegan and glutenfree Bloody Mary mix from Indy’s Hoosier Momma; stoneground mustard and pasta sauce from LocalFolks Foods of Sheridan; and slow smoked meats from Indianapolis-based Judge’s Tip of the Rib Bar-B-Que. The Indiana State Fair runs Aug. 3–19.

Details: indianastatefair.com

—Marcia Ellett

Initially, the book will be sold inside the DuPont Food Pavilion at the Indiana State Fair, where the author, photographer and story subjects will sign copies daily. The book will be available online, too (indianahumanities.org).

The 250-page paperback ($24.95; IBJ Book Publishing) is a collaboration between Indianapolis writer David Hoppe and photographer Kristin Hess, who works on the communications team at Indiana Humanities. Hess traveled throughout the state with the Food for Thought program, an interactive exhibit about Indiana food culture that wrapped up last year. (Hess wrote about her experience crisscrossing the state for food in the Fall 2011 issue of Edible Indy. Read her essay at edibleindy.com.)

The stories of people Hess met along the way are served up in this book.

“This is the legacy piece of the Food for Thought program,” Hess says. “It’s not meant to be a road trip guide to Indiana— though it could be. It’s about getting to know people and what motivates them to do these amazing things.

“It’ll feel like you’ve made friends after you read it.”

—Erica Sagon Photo by Kristin Hess

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loving Spoonfuls

COOL AS A CUCUMBER

BY ANDIE MARSHALL

S

oup is a year-round option for me, but many people seem to disagree. The “no, thanks” attitude about eating soup in the summer—hot or not—was a real challenge when I used to prepare soups for a restaurant. But a group of customers were loyal to my chilled cucumber soup, a refreshing recipe that combines cucumbers, dill, mint, sour cream and plain yogurt.

CHILLED CUCUMBER SOUP Recipe by Andie Marshall Makes 6 servings 3 large cucumbers, peeled and seeded 1 bunch fresh dill 1 bunch fresh mint

Summer lunches and brunches are ideal occasions for this exceptionally easy recipe. You could make the preparation even easier by using seedless cucumbers, but the taste is not as distinctive. You could save calories with low-fat yogurt and sour cream, but this also sacrifices flavor.

1 teaspoon chopped fresh garlic ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg 8 ounces sour cream 32 ounces plain yogurt 6 tablespoons good-quality olive oil (High quality organic selection available at Artisano’s Oils and Spices)

Not having to cook in a hot kitchen is the most obvious advantage to making chilled soups in the summer. Another benefit: Most can be prepared ahead of time and will keep for several days in the refrigerator. With abundant fruits and vegetables available at local markets or through CSAs, cold soups are inexpensive as well.

1½ cups water 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper Mint leaves and cucumber slices, for garnish

I have found that serving cold soup in smaller portions in mugs, wine glasses or sherbet glasses is a pretty presentation that also makes the idea a bit more palatable for those who need some coaxing.

Marshall is a home cook whose fondness for soup began when she was a working mom. With soups, she always had nutritious, homemade and reheatable meals on hand. Photo by Christina Richey

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1.

Finely chop the cucumber, dill and mint, using a food processor or by hand.

2.

Add the garlic, nutmeg, sour cream and yogurt to the bowl of the food processor (or other mixing bowl) and blend.

3.

Blend in the oil and water, adjusting the amount to desired consistency.

4.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

5.

Chill for at least 6 hours before serving. Garnish with fresh mint leaves and a very thin slice of cucumber.

Summer 2012

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SWEET CORN AND THREE-BERRY ICE CREAM Recipe by Cassie Johnston Makes about 1 quart For the three-berry swirl: 6 ounces raspberries (about 2 cups) 3 ounces blackberries (about 1 cup) 3 ounces blueberries (about ¾ cup) ½ cup sugar For the sweet corn ice cream base: 1 heaping tablespoon cornstarch 1½ cups whole milk 4 ounces cream cheese, softened Pinch of salt 1 ear sweet corn 1¾ cups heavy cream ⅔ cup sugar

1.

Make the three-berry swirl: In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and sugar. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 8–10 minutes or until the sauce is thick and syrupy. Transfer to a bowl and place in fridge to cool.

2.

For the ice cream, whisk together cornstarch and about 2 tablespoons of the milk in a small bowl until cornstarch is dissolved. Set aside.

3.

In a large heatproof bowl, whisk together the cream cheese and salt.

CORN

4.

Chilled (Not Grilled)

Slice the kernels from the corncob into a large saucepan; discard cob.

5.

Add remainder of the milk, heavy cream and sugar to the corn kernels.

STORY AND PHOTO BY CASSIE JOHNSTON

6.

Slowly heat the saucepan with the corn and milk mixture over medium-low heat until frothy, about 7 minutes.

7.

Remove from heat and whisk in the cornstarch mixture.

8.

Return to medium heat for 2–3 minutes, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened.

9.

Whisk the corn and milk base into the cream cheese bowl until combined.

S

weet corn and three-berry ice cream might sound like a strange combo, but the plump, juicy kernels lend an addictive and decidedly Indiana flavor to this summer dessert.

The kernels are a special treat with each spoonful, and they pair beautifully with the dark crimson swirls of sweet berry sauce.

Make sure to use fresh-off-the-stalk local sweet corn, and gather berries from the farmers’ market.

We can’t think of a better way to welcome your ice cream machine out of hibernation.

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10. Refrigerate until completely cool, about 4 hours.

11. Once cool, pour ice cream mixture into the canister of an ice cream machine and process as directed by the manufacturer.

12. Once done processing, layer the ice cream with the berry sauce in a freezer-safe container. Do not stir. Freeze for 3– 4 hours or until ice cream is completely solid.

Summer 2012

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edible traditions

Here’s The Scoop Where to chill out with fabulous frosty treats

The Dairy Bar at Traders Point Creamery Scooping up icy delights made with 100% grass-fed milk and cream, the Dairy Bar at Traders Point is a must-stop during any trip to the creamery. Vanilla is TPC’s bestseller, closely trailed by dark chocolate and creamy caramel flavors, any of which are ideal as a sundae base or heavenly atop a slice of homemade pie. Customers swear by the creamery’s milkshakes and fruit smoothies, just-right blended combinations of the best organic products the farm has to offer. The Dairy Bar is open daily from 11am to 5pm; seats tend to get scarce during Friday farmers’ market hours, but shoppers can grab pints to go from the onsite farm store and Loft restaurant.

Lick Since founding Lick in 2010, sisters Kelly Beerbower and Meredith Kong have garnered lots of word-of-mouth buzz for their herb-and-spice-infused artisan ice creams at the Broad Ripple and Indy Winter farmers’ markets (local distributors like MacNiven’s and Eggshell Bistro are just two local establishments that carry the company’s organic products). Creative flavor combinations are where the whole operation shines brightest—think epicurean interminglings like milk chocolate goat cheese, honey lavender, candied pecan gorgonzola and Toffee Wee Mac made with Sun King Scottish ale.

Details: Various outlets; lickicecream.tumblr.com

Details: 9101 Moore Rd.; 317-733-1700; tpforganics.com

BY AMY LYNCH

When summertime temperatures start to swelter, ice cream purveyors are ready to cool customers down by cup and by cone. Here are some of the top spots in the city (and beyond) to find ice cream of the homemade, artisan and organic variety:

Try Lick’s artisan ice cream in an organic waffle cone. Photo courtesy of Lick.

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Summer 2012

Broad Ripple Blackberry is a favorite flavor at BRICS on the Monon Trail. Photo by Nathan DuBow.

Auntie Em’s Frozen Custard and Cupcakes At the opposite end of the Monon in Carmel’s Arts and Design District, newcomer Auntie Em’s is quickly gaining a fan base for its secret-family-recipe frozen custard and homemade waffle cones. The shop opened last September and offers a rotating selection of at least eight flavors daily. Chocolate and vanilla are always on the menu, but black raspberry and lemon are also proving popular choices.

In addition to cups and cones, Auntie Em’s serves cookie sandwiches, flavored Cokes made to order and “torpedoes”—sinfully good custard confections with a choice of mix-ins blended right in.

Details: 111 W. Main St., Ste. 130, Carmel; 317-846-4100, auntieemscustard.com

The Chocolate Moose This venerable Bloomington ice cream stand draws a steady line of customers on summer nights, who walk away with giant fist-sized scoops, tall torches of soft-serve, sundaes, parfaits and candy-studded Blizzes.

Ludwig Farmstead Creamery Expanding upon a recently launched line of raw-milk cheeses, Zionsville dairy king Fons Smits has now introduced a dreamy dark chocolate ice cream he has developed for Ludwig Farmstead Creamery, with vanilla and additional flavors on the way. Fons puts the spotlight on fresh, natural flavors by focusing on just a few select high-quality ingredients and eschewing stabilizers. And, because his ice cream isn’t whipped with air, each densely delicious scoop packs a seriously satisfying punch. Fons’ fans can currently find his creamy creations at Patrick’s Kitchen and Drinks in Zionsville, with more distribution outlets to come.

Details: Various outlets;

BRICS Since 2010, the Monon Trail–adjacent Broad Ripple Ice Cream Station has made its home in the charming historic Monon Railway Station, formerly the Whistle Stop. South Haven, Michigan–based Sherman’s supplies the ice creams, and the spacious deck makes a perfect perch for people watching over generous scoops of fudge-rippled yellow cake batter or Broad Ripple Blackberry. (Frozen yogurt, lactose-free and soy milk selections are also available.) For customers who can’t settle on one of the three dozen or so tempting flavors, the “Tour de BRICS” sampler provides scoops of any four. Bonus: BRICS follows sustainable business practices by offering fairtrade coffees and teas, using recyclable paper products and serving ice cream in reusable ceramic dishes with metal spoons.

ludwigfarmsteadcreamery.com Details: 901 E. 64th St.:

If dairy is a deal breaker for you, the Chocolate Moose has you covered with vegan ice cream in chocolate, vanilla, strawberry and cinnamon sugar, just the first of the new flavors planned for this summer.

The homemade dairy-free batches get their creaminess from coconut milk, and almond milk is used to make a shake or a Blizz.

On the other end of the spectrum is another new arrival: sausage ice cream. Yes, sage-andmaple sausage from a local butcher is really simmered in milk to impart it with flavor.

Try a scoop on top of a vegan breakfast waffle at the Bloomington Community Farmers’ Market on Saturdays.

Details: 401 S. Walnut St., Bloomington; 812-498-0030; chocolatemoosebloom ington.com. Also sold at Bloomingfoods stores (bloomingfoods.coop) and the Bloomington Community Farmers’ Market (Bloomington.in.gov/farmersmarket).

317-257-5757; bricsindy.com

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liquid assets

Things Are Looking

UPLAND For Bloomington brewing company, craft beer and local food go hand in hand

BY KEITH ROACH PHOTOS BY CHELSEA SANDERS

It’s a perfect day for a cookout. Korean-cut beef short ribs are on the grill and sides are nearby.

Blackberry pie warms in the sun and goat cheese sorbet is on ice. And, fittingly, beer is plentiful.

Upland Brewing Company’s executive chef, Seth Elgar, is at the helm of this summer picnic, unfolding on the farm of Upland’s president, Doug Dayhoff. Grab a plate and get to know the people behind it all.

It’s a rare and delicious thing when a brewery gets its beer and its food right.

Upland Brewing Company, the craft brewery and restaurant based in Bloomington, is such a place, where the macaroni and cheese is as revered as the Wheat Ale from which it’s made.

There is an ever-widening circle of ways to try Upland’s beer— sampled at Upland’s tasting room in Indy near Broad Ripple, pulled from the taps at Lucas Oil Stadium, offered at bars and stores throughout the state—but there is just one place to taste that union of beer and food: at the brewpub in Bloomington.

Upland executive chef Seth Elgar relies on relationships with local growers and farmers to steer the menu when possible. The menu spans pub favorites like breaded pork tenderloins and entrees such as enchiladas with mole sauce, plus specials like Korean-cut short ribs.

“Not everything needs to be deep-fried to be beer friendly,” Elgar says.

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INDEPENDENT AND IRREVERENT Founded in 1998, Upland brews seven year-round beers—including the popular wheat and IPA—and more than a dozen seasonal and special beers that are sold, in bottles and on draught, in Indiana, Louisville and southern Wisconsin. It also has a line of Belgian sour ales, whose signature tart flavors come from fermenting with a variety of yeasts and bacteria in oak barrels for a year or more.

The company’s name comes from the Norman and Crawford uplands—geologists’ terms for two of the southern Indiana areas that glaciers didn’t flatten. Nestled in Bloomington’s rolling hills are the original brewery and brewpub, on 11th Street just a few blocks off the downtown square.

The Upland crew is serious about making exceptional beer and food.

Head brewer Caleb Staton is an Indiana Artisan, a designation for the premier food and beverage producers and artists in the state.

But they have plenty of fun too. Case in point: the smile-inducing name of their brown ale, Nut Hugger. The label features a squirrel sipping a pint.

“We don’t want to lose being independent and irreverent,” says Dayhoff, one of the members of a small partnership group that bought the business in 2006. “We don’t want to lose the part of our character that makes us special. That’s what’s enabling our growth.”

Clockwise from top left: Upland president Doug Dayhoff and his wife, DeeDee; Upland's executive chef, Seth Elgar; farmers (from left) Diana and Dave Fischer of Fischer Farms, Deryl Dale of Harvest Moon Flower Farm, Teresa Birtles of Heartland Family Farm, Linda Chapman of Harvest Moon; Upland beers.

Summer 2012

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GROWING UP AND OUT

CHEERS TO COMMUNITY

Over the last 5½ years, Upland’s business has tripled. In 2011, Upland produced just under 10,000 barrels of beer.

When Teresa Birtles, owner of Heartland Family Farm, goes to Upland after the Bloomington farmers market, she enjoys seeing farms she knows on the menu.

Its beers have snagged a variety of awards and make cameos on “Parks and Recreation,” the NBC show about a fictional Indiana town––when the characters drink beer, Upland bottles are in their hands. Now as popular as it’s ever been, Upland is expanding, a move that will make the beer company a regional player.

This summer Upland is shifting production of its traditional ales and lagers to a refurbished 37,000-square-foot plant on Bloomington’s west side. At first the new brewery will have an annual capacity of about 18,000 barrels, but there will be room to expand further and produce up to 50,000.

The 11th Street location will be renovated late this year or early next.

A larger kitchen and additional seating will serve more customers, and a new outdoor music pavilion will host large events. Upland will also build a barrel cellar and increase production of its sours.

“Normally, when you grow you have to compromise,” Dayhoff says.

“On both the beer side and the restaurant side, we’ve said not only that we won’t compromise, but we’ll get better at our values and authenticity than before.”

Those values include being sustainable and buying local.

FROM THE FARM Seth Elgar became Upland’s executive chef in early 2011. A farmraised Hoosier whose culinary education took him to Chicago’s Kendall College and to France, he’s strengthened Upland’s commitment to local sourcing.

Upland gets produce from Heartland Family Farm in Bedford and Sun Circle Farm in Paoli, herbs and spices from Harvest Moon Flower Farm in Spencer, cheese from Capriole in Greenville, beef and pork from Fischer Farms in Jasper and poultry from the Butcher’s Block in Bloomington—to name but a few.

Each week Elgar shops at Bloomington’s farmers market, but he’s also trying some new, more innovative sources. On the roof, near the water-heating solar panels, Upland is starting a garden. And, this spring, the brewpub began buying pigs from WE Farm that were fed Upland’s fruit and vegetable scraps.

The innovation continues in the kitchen.

Diners sitting inside or on the patio can get tried-and-true breaded tenderloins, but they can also order a seitan tenderloin. And pretzel twists from the Bloomington Bagel Company, served with Wheat Ale cheese sauce and Helios Pale Ale mustard. And porter chocolate cake, made with Upland’s Bad Elmer’s Porter.

“It’s just delightful to feel like you’re a part of other people’s lives,” she says. “It builds cohesiveness in the community.”

Upland also builds community by sponsoring events like festivals, concerts and fundraisers for causes like the Sycamore Land Trust. At the annual Tour de Upland, scheduled for Aug. 18 and 19, attendees gather in Brown County for a weekend of cycling, beer, food, music and camping. And Upland will host two Oktoberfest celebrations this fall, one in Bloomington and the other in Indy’s Military Park.

“Beer, music, being outside—they’re all things that go well together,” Elgar says. “We try to do that whenever we can.”

Details: Upland Brew Pub and Brewery: 350 W. 11th St., Bloomington; 812-336-2337. Upland Tasting Room: 4842 N. College Ave., Indianapolis; 317-602-3931. uplandbeer.com

Upland’s Perfect Summer Picnic Whether it’s your first cookout of the summer or your 10th, this menu of Korean short ribs and sides is bound to impress.

Behind it all is Seth Elgar, the executive chef at Upland Brewing Co. brewpub in Bloomington.

The main dish is Korean beef short ribs. These aren’t the barbecue-slathered slabs you’re used to. They’re cross-cut, so there’s more meat than bone, and an outstanding marinade of Asian pears, mirin, honey, ginger and Korean chili flakes imparts a sweet and tangy flavor. (Elgar occasionally offers Korean ribs on special at Upland.)

The beef is sliced and tucked into lettuce leaves with kimchi, then paired with picnic-perfect sides like carrot-and-radish slaw and fennel salad. And the big finish: blackberry pie with goat cheese sorbet.

Elgar invited some very special guests to his cookout: the farmers who had contributed ingredients for the meal.

At the table were Dave and Diana Fischer of Fischer Farms in Jasper, who provided the beef short ribs; Teresa Birtles of Heartland Family Farm in Bedford, who provided produce; Linda Chapman and Deryl Dale of Harvest Moon Flower Farm in Spencer, who provided herbs (and flowers for the table).

Here, Elgar shares his recipes for an inspired backyard picnic.

Elgar and his staff experiment with weekly specials and seasonal items, too. After an Upland employee returned from a trip to Kenya, the restaurant served Kenyan specials for two weeks.

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“We don’t want to lose the part of our character that makes us special.

That’s what’s enabling our growth.”

KALBI These kalbi, or Korean beef short ribs, build incredible flavor while they marinate for three days. But once they touch the grill, they’re quick-cooking.

Ask your butcher for Korean-cut short ribs, which are thin and crosscut—Elgar sources his from Fischer Farms. After you pull the ribs from the grill, cut the beef in thin slices away from the bones. Tuck the slices into lettuce wraps with kimchi (recipe on page 16) and eat them like a taco.

Recipe by Chef Seth Elgar Serves 6 1–2 Asian pears (use one softball-size pear or two baseball-size pears) ¾ cup soy sauce ¾ cup mirin (Japanese rice wine) or sweet white wine 3 tablespoons minced garlic ½ white onion, chopped 1½ tablespoon minced ginger 3 tablespoons brown sugar 1½ tablespoons honey 1½ tablespoons sesame oil 2 tablespoons Korean chili flakes 1 teaspoon black pepper 5 pounds of Korean-cut beef short ribs 3 tablespoons sesame seeds Leaf lettuce, for making lettuce wraps

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1.

To prepare the marinade, cut all the usable fruit from the cores of the pears. In a blender or food processor, combine pears and all other ingredients except the short ribs, sesame seeds and leaf lettuce. Blend until smooth.

2.

Transfer marinade to a large bowl and stir in sesame seeds.

3.

Dip each rib slice in marinade and place it in a nonreactive container (stainless steel, food-grade plastic or glass). Stack ribs in the container, leaving a bit of space between each.

4.

Pour remaining marinade over the beef and place it in the refrigerator.

5.

Marinate beef for at least 3 days, up to 6 days.

6.

Each day, transfer ribs to a new container, reversing their order (top becomes bottom) to ensure beef is evenly marinated.

7.

Before cooking beef, wipe all marinade from ribs. Heat grill to high heat. Cook beef to medium doneness and remove them from grill.

8.

Allow beef to rest for 5 minutes. Then, with kitchen shears, cut along the fat seams and the bone structure. Cut the pieces of meat into strips that will fit into the lettuce pieces.

9.

Assemble lettuce wraps like a soft taco, with the grilled beef, as well as kimchi or other pickles and slaws.

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KIMCHI

“Not everything needs to be deep-fried to be beer friendly.”

In Korea, this fermented slaw is a ubiquitous all-purpose condiment. While aging, kimchi develops an incredibly complex flavor and a kick, making it the perfect accompaniment to Korean short ribs in lettuce wraps.

It’s good for up to six months in the fridge, so make a big batch and store it in four quart-size canning jars. Then you’ll have it on hand to enjoy all summer long in a variety of ways—on tacos, with fried eggs or with almost anything that comes off the grill.

Elgar uses Napa cabbage from Heartland Family Farms, sweet potatoes from Sun Circle Farms and ginger and garlic from Harvest Moon Flower Farm.

Recipe by Chef Seth Elgar Makes 4 quarts, enough for 12–16 people 8 cups cold water 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon kosher salt 2 heads Napa cabbage 1 head garlic, sliced 1½-inch ginger segment, peeled and grated ¼ cup fish sauce 1 daikon (6–8 inches long), peeled and julienned 1 bunch scallions, cut thin 1 cup Korean chili powder 1 teaspoon sugar 2 carrots, shredded 1 large sweet potato (about 1 pound), peeled & grated 3 leeks, whites julienned 8 anchovies 4 to 5 large shallots (about 2 cups), sliced thin

1.

Make a brine: Bring the water to a boil, then dissolve the salt. Cool brine to room temperature.

2.

Prepare cabbages by peeling off bad exterior leaves. Quarter cabbages, making sure to keep some of the core in each piece. Soak cabbage in salt water for 4 hours, weighted down with ceramic plates.

3.

Combine all remaining ingredients into a paste. Mix by hand (wear latex gloves).

4.

Remove cabbage from brine and wring out excess water.

5.

Starting from the outside working toward the interior, smear each layer of cabbage with the paste.

6.

Pack cabbages into containers that are glass, stainless steel or foodgrade plastic (not disposable plastic containers, or Tupperware).

7.

Age the kimchi in a cool, dark place (ideally around 45–55°) such as the basement for 1 week.

8.

After aging, cut the core from each quarter of cabbage and discard.

9.

Cut each quarter into six or more pieces, depending on size, and pack mixture into 4 clean quart-size canning jars.

10. Refrigerate jars of kimchi. It is good for up to 6 months.

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SWEET POTATO PICKLES

FARMERS’ MARKET LEMONADE

Pickling is a great way to keep sweet potatoes on the table through summer. This recipe calls for a vibrant brine infused with allspice, cloves, star anise and cinnamon.

Honey, mint, basil and ginger make this lemonade utterly addictive.

Use your favorite local honey and herbs—Elgar sources from Hunter’s Honey Farm in Martinsville and Harvest Moon Flower Farm.

Try the lemonade spiked with gin or vodka, too.

Note that you’ll need to make a spice sachet using cheesecloth and butcher’s twine (or uncolored cotton thread).

Recipe by Chef Seth Elgar Serves 8

Like the kimchi, these sweet potato pickles are good for 6 months, so make a large batch and keep some on hand for the next cookout or two.

⅔ cup honey 4 cups boiling water ½ cup mint, cut into chiffonade

Recipe by Chef Seth Elgar Serves 10–12

½ cup basil, cut into chiffonade

1 orange

⅓ cup ginger (a 2–3-inch segment), peeled and sliced thin

4 large sweet potatoes

⅔ cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice (from about 3 lemons)

8 whole allspice berries

3 cups ice water

3 whole cloves 3 whole star anise

1.

Dissolve honey into the boiling water, then stir in mint, basil and ginger. Allow to stand for 2–3 minutes.

2.

Stir in lemon juice and ice water.

3.

To serve, pour into glasses with ice.

1 tablespoon pink peppercorns 2 Ceylon cinnamon sticks 2 cups cold water 2½ cups rice vinegar ½ cup sugar 1 cup brown sugar ¼ cup kosher salt

Sweet Potato Pickles being passed at Upland Brewing Co.’s summer picnic.

1 large red onion, sliced

1.

Using a vegetable peeler, remove exterior peel of the orange, avoiding as much of the pith as possible. Set zest aside.

2.

Cut orange in half and juice it into a small bowl.

3.

Peel sweet potatoes and slice them ¼-inch thick on a mandolin.

4.

Toast the whole allspice berries, cloves, star anise, peppercorns and cinnamon over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes.

5.

On a large piece of cheesecloth, place the toasted spices and the orange zest. Tie this into a sachet.

6.

In a small pot, bring the water, vinegar, sugars, salt and orange juice to a boil.

7.

In a nonreactive container (it will need a lid), combine sweet potatoes and red onion and place sachet on top.

8.

Pour the hot brine over the top of the potatoes, onion and sachet, and use a couple of plates to submerge the mixture.

9.

Allow the pickled sweet potatoes to sit in the refrigerator for at least 7 days. They are good for up to 6 months, but the sachet should be removed after 10 days.

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CARROT & RADISH SLAW A sweet-and-sour vinaigrette made with local cider vinegar dresses this slaw, which brings together carrots, Korean pear, red radishes and daikon radishes (also known as Japanese radishes— spot them at the market by looking for long white roots that look like jumbo carrots).

Elgar sources daikon from Sun Circle Farms and cider vinegar from Musgrave Orchards.

Recipe by Chef Seth Elgar Serves 6 ½ cup cider vinegar ½ cup sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon mustard powder ½ teaspoon celery seed ⅓ cup canola oil 1 medium daikon radish, diced into ¼-inch pieces ½ of a white onion, diced into ¼-inch pieces ½ of a Korean pear, julienned 8 medium carrots (about ¾ pound), carrots ½ pound red radishes, shaved thin

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1.

Combine vinegar, sugar, salt, mustard powder and celery seed in a mixing bowl. Whisk to incorporate, then whisk in oil.

2.

Cut daikon, onion, pear, carrots and radishes and add each, one at a time, to the vinegar and oil mixture, making sure to mix well each time to prevent oxidization of the produce.

3.

The slaw can be served immediately, but for best results let marinate for 2–3 hours before serving.

Summer 2012

FENNEL SALAD Fennel and orange mingle with chives, tarragon and parsley for an aromatic side dish that you’ll make again and again this summer.

Recipe by Chef Seth Elgar Serves 6 2 large oranges 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar 1½ tablespoons Dijon mustard

GOAT CHEESE SORBET This recipe is an adaptation of one found in Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home. Author Jeni Britton Bauer owns eponymous (and superb) ice cream shops in Columbus, Ohio.

Elgar’s version highlights top-notch chèvre from Capriole, the goat cheese farm in Greenville. He also suggests using whole milk from Traders Point Creamery in Zionsville for this recipe.

1 tablespoon local honey

Recipe by Chef Seth Elgar Serves 8

Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste Olive oil, about 4 tablespoons

2 cups whole milk

1 fennel bulb, sliced very thin 2 large shallots (about 1 cup), sliced very thin ½ cup roasted red pepper, diced into ¼-inch pieces

4 ounces (about ½ cup) Capriole chèvre (goat cheese)

1 tablespoon flat leaf parsley, cut into chiffonade

1½ ounces (3 tablespoons) cream cheese, at room temperature

1 teaspoon tarragon, cut into chiffonade

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1½ tablespoons chives, sliced thin

⅔ cup sugar

1 teaspoon minced garlic

3 tablespoons agave nectar (use the light variety, not amber)

½ cucumber (peeled, split lengthwise, seeds scooped from the interior, sliced thin in half-moon slices)

1.

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cornstarch

Supreme the oranges: Cut of the top and the bottom of the fruit.

Cut the peel and pith off of the fruit from top to bottom, working your knife along the curve of the orange. Cut segments free from the connective membrane. Reserve 1½ tablespoons of juice, squeezed from the remaining core of the oranges.

1.

Combine 2 tablespoons of the milk with cornstarch in a small bowl to make a slurry.

2.

In another bowl, combine chèvre with cream cheese and salt.

3.

Bring remaining milk to a boil with the sugar and agave nectar. Boil for 4 minutes (don’t let the liquid boil over).

2.

Whisk together vinegar, mustard, honey and reserved orange juice.

Season well with kosher salt and ground black pepper.

3.

While whisking this mixture, drizzle in olive oil slowly. The vinaigrette will emulsify when the proper amount of oil is present (approximately 4–5 tablespoons).

4.

Whisk in the cornstarch slurry and bring liquid back to a simmer. Cook mixture for an additional 2 minutes to ensure that it has emulsified.

4.

Combine orange segments and remaining ingredients together and toss gently with half of the sherry vinaigrette. Add more vinaigrette as needed.

5.

5.

Season salad to taste with salt and black pepper.

Remove milk mixture from stove and pour it slowly into the bowl with the goat cheese mixture, whisking to combine them. If bowl wobbles, place a damp towel under it for traction.

6.

Once all ingredients have incorporated, set bowl in an ice bath to cool. (To make the ice bath, place ice and water in a mixing bowl that is larger than the bowl you are cooling.)

7.

Once the mixture is at or below room temperature, refrigerate it overnight.

8.

The following day, or up to 2 days later, run the mix through an ice cream maker, following the manufacturer’s directions, until it is frothy and thick.

9.

Transfer the sorbet to another container and freeze for at least 2 hours before serving.

10. To make scooping easier when serving, let the ice cream scoop stand in hot tap water for several minutes first, and between scoops, too.

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OLD-FASHIONED PIE DOUGH

BLACKBERRY PIE FILLING

No shortcuts here—this is real pie dough made with pork lard, and it will have everyone asking for the recipe. Elgar sources lard from Fischer Farms and cider vinegar from Musgrave Orchards.

Fill the crust with blackberry filling and top individual slices with goat cheese sorbet (recipes follow) for a memorable finale.

Recipe by Chef Seth Elgar Makes enough to fill 1 pie 1 quart fresh blackberries 1 cup sugar

Recipe by Chef Seth Elgar Makes enough dough for two pies with lattice tops

¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1 lemon, zested and juiced ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour

4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 teaspoons kosher salt

1.

Place blackberries, sugar, salt and lemon zest and juice in a bowl. Toss to coat evenly.

2.

Add flour and toss to coat again.

1⅔ cups pork lard (refrigerated for at least 1 hour) ½ cup cold water 1 egg, beaten 1 tablespoon cider vinegar Melted butter and sugar

1.

Combine flour, baking powder and salt in a large mixing bowl.

2.

Add lard and incorporate it by hand until the mix is similar to coarse cornmeal in size.

3.

In a separate bowl, combine the water, egg and vinegar, and whisk well to incorporate.

4.

Add the liquid to the dry mix and knead by hand until a smooth dough forms.

5.

Divide dough into 4 evenly sized pieces and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. This dough, if wrapped tightly with plastic film, can last up to 3 days in the refrigerator or up to a week when frozen.

6.

When ready to assemble a pie, roll out a dough ball on a well-floured surface. Roll out a 12–inch circle to fill a 9–inch pan.

7.

Rub the inside of the pie pan with room-temperature butter and lay dough sheet across the pan. Press to line the pan.

8.

Pierce bottom of dough several times with a fork or a paring knife to keep it from rising and bubbling in the oven. Add the blackberry pie filling (recipe follows).

9.

A second piece of reserved dough can be used to create a lattice top to the pie. Roll the dough out just as you did for the bottom crust. Cut dough into ½- to ¾-inch strips and weave them across the filling. Crimp the edges into the bottom crust.

10. Brush top of lattice with melted butter and sprinkle with sugar.

11.

20

Bake pie in a preheated oven at 450° for 10 minutes.

Turn oven down to 350° and bake for another 20–25 minutes, rotating it 2 or 3 times.

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worth the trip

1. GRANITE CITY FOOD & BREWERY 150 W. 96th St., Indianapolis; 317-218-7185; gcfb.net When it comes to its beer, Granite City is part chain, part local. Corporate headquarters starts the brewing process, and each store then completes the fermentation onsite. Even so, we would still say that a beer called Brother Benedict’s Bock is more interesting than a Bud. Of particular note at this far Northside locale is the head brewer’s enthusiasm for the summer shandy—a beer and lemonade mix probably created after a hot day outside when all that was in the fridge was a little of each. Enjoy one on Granite City’s soon-toexpand patio.

Beer from Right Here

BY CHRIS COLLINS ILLUSTRATIONS BY JULIA RICKLES

O

f all the reasons to grab a local pint, perhaps this is the most obvious: Tons of really good beer is made right here in our backyard. Half the fun is seeing where it all happens—you know, meeting the brewer, nosing around the equipment, sampling and taking home a growler to share with friends—which is why Edible Indy created this guide to breweries in Indianapolis and beyond.

It includes the newbies, up-and-comers and old favorites—even a few chains with their own brewmasters on site. To help you make the most of each visit, we’ve indicated where you’ll find patio seating, facility tours and food trucks waiting outside.

Wondering what pints to try when you get there? Recommendations from our beer critics will point you in the right direction.

2. BROAD RIPPLE BREWPUB 842 E. 65th St., Indianapolis; 317-253-2739; broadripplebrewpub.com Indy’s oldest brewpub is the best of all-weather worlds—a warm, cozy pub to quaff a pint on a cold winter’s night, and a vibrant patio scene for a summertime beer and some Monon Trail peoplewatching. New this summer is their Aboriginale—a pilsner-style lager using Australian Galaxy hops that’s great for the latter. The Brewpub now also offers its beer in plastic growlers, a boon to bicyclists who like to break even, calorie-wise.

Critic’s pick: Try the Lawnmower Pale Ale, an easy-drinking golden ale. The initial malt sweetness is balanced by a soft bitterness in the finish. Subtle fruity esters add some additional flavor. It finishes just dry enough to balance the malt and make you want more. It’s the perfect beer for a hot summer day—especially after cutting the grass, as the name suggests.—R.S.

KEY

Cheers!

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Tasting room

Growlers available

Outdoor seating

Food truck hangout

Summer entertainment

Tours offered

Food available

Summer 2012

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6. THR3E WISE MEN BREWING CO. 1021 Broad Ripple Ave., Indianapolis; 317-255-5151; thr3ewisemen.com

3. BRUGGE BRASSERIE 1011 E. Westfield Blvd., Indianapolis; 317-255-0978; bruggebrasserie.com Brugge has cornered the classic handcrafted Belgian beer market like no other in town. Known for its potent yet smooth Tripel de Ripple (10% alcohol, limit two), Brugge beer has been steadily showing up in local restaurants and retailers statewide. The double-decker patio offers a nice Broad Ripple perspective while sipping a Gato del Sol IPA and munching on the must-have cone of pommes frites.

Critic’s pick: My favorite this time of year is a sour style beer called Pookah. Pookah is made with fresh boysenberries and uses a special type of yeast that leaves a dry and sour finish. This is as refreshing as lemonade on a hot summer day.—M.R.

4. BIER BREWERY & TAPROOM 5133 E. 65th St., Indianapolis; 317-253-2437; www.bierbrewery.com The 2011 Indiana State Fair Champion Brewery sits at a unique spot between Allisonville Road and Binford Boulevard. But once you find it, you’re likely to hang out for a while enjoying a wider array of beer than you’d find at most of its brewing brethren. In March alone, Bier released nine new beers, including an eminently drinkable cream ale—perfect on a summer day. Bier offers special pint nights, has space for private events and has become a food truck destination.

Sporting a classic lodge feel inside, Thr3e Wise Men microbrewery is part of the Scotty’s Brewhouse empire. On nice days, the long strip of outdoor seating fills up fast, so grab a good summery choice like the Snow Bunny Blonde inside and put your name in. You can expect great pizza and decadently salted free popcorn, too. (Beer helps with that.) Stop in on Fridays to get your growler refilled for $8. Kidfriendly, too: they eat for free on Mondays.

Critic’s pick: Centennial Martyr Double IPA has fruity and spicy aromas and a lot of malty flavors. At around 8%, this one is at the higher end of the alcohol scale. —G.R.

7 & 16. UPLAND BREWING CO. and TASTING ROOM Tasting room: 4842 N. College Ave., Indianapolis; 317-602-3931, uplandbeer.com Upland’s Indy store sits in the heart of burgeoning SoBro (south Broad Ripple) at 49th and embodies a true tasting room—collegestyle furniture, board games and a coffeehouse vibe. There’s sitting space towards the back of the store, and even a small patio for al fresco sipping. Upland is as committed to their community as they are to a great product.

Brewery and restaurant: 350 W. 11th St., Bloomington; 812-3362337; uplandbeer.com. Meanwhile, at Upland’s brewery and restaurant in Bloomington, a large patio awaits—and you won’t find a better place to perch on nice days with a pint of wheat ale or IPA. The laid-back restaurant dishes up elevated pub food indoors and outdoors, and local ingredients are used throughout the menu.

5. BARLEY ISLAND BREWING CO. 639 Connor Street, Noblesville; 317-770-5280; barleyisland.com After closing its Broad Ripple location, Barley Island has concentrated its efforts on the original Noblesville location, just off the downtown square. It has a “small town” feel while offering decidedly sophisticated brews, and the restaurant and its outdoor patio will be smoke-free starting July 1. Check out the new Damien Belgian Golden Strong this summer—and at 8.4% alcohol, probably one goblet of this is all you’ll need.

Critic’s pick: Wheat beers are a summertime staple, and Upland’s version is very refreshing. This cloudy brew has a Belgian twist and a lot of citrus notes.—G.R.

Critic’s pick: Dirty Helen Brown Ale is sweet and malty, but light enough for even the hottest of summer days. You can’t go wrong with this beer and some barbecue.—G.R.

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8. TRITON BREWING CO. 5764 Wheeler Rd., Indianapolis; 317-735-2706; tritonbrewing.com Though a relative newcomer, Triton is turning beer snobs’ heads with top-quality microbrews and a community-based approach to not just its business, but beer overall. Located in a quickly developing area of Fort Benjamin Harrison, Triton’s beer lineup targets the sophisticated palate, while being very inviting to newbies. With a different food truck nearly every day (open Wednesday through Sunday), you’ll always find something interesting at Triton. Family friendly, and flat screens are always tuned to one game or another.

Critic’s pick: Magnificent Amber, an American amber ale, is a well-balanced, medium-bodied, copper-colored beer with toasty and caramel malt flavors, a citrusy and floral hop character and soft fruity esters for added depth. This beer finishes semi-sweet with some residual sugar, but it is still dry enough to be refreshing on a summer day. This is a flavorful beer that perfectly balances malt and hops.—R.S.

9. FLAT 12 BIERWERKS 414 N. Dorman St., Indianapolis; 317-635-2337; flat12.me Tucked away between two one-way streets on the near eastside, Flat 12 has become something of a Sunday destination for craft beer lovers citywide. It was an early adopter for the food truck/microbrew scene, and with an expanded patio and tasting room, head brewer Rob Caputo and team offer a potent combination of delicious beer, a foodie partnership with nearby Smoking Goose and acoustic entertainment.

Critic’s pick: For a very drinkable hop-focused beer, try Walkabout Pale Ale. A spicy, citrusy and earthy hop aroma greets the nose initially, setting the stage for a similar hop flavor. A sweet malt character is there for balance. A dry bitterness lingers into the finish with a wonderful residual hop flavor.—R.S.

11. SUN KING BREWERY 135 N. College Ave., Indianapolis; 317-602-3702, sunkingbrewing.com By now, you may have already tasted the phenomenon that is Sun King, known for packaging its house beers in cans and for turning out a slew of seasonal and specialty brews, like summer’s Popcorn Pilsner. Their beer is practically everywhere, and on any given Thursday or Friday the tasting room takes on a party vibe. Though it’s a bit of a destination, you can usually find something going on at the brewery, whether it’s a beer tapping, a film festival or a DJ. The Sun King crew stays very connected to the community; keep up with their amazingly busy schedule at the website.

Critic’s pick: Osiris Pale Ale is perfect for the pool, festivals or cheering on the Indians (Sun King is now the official craft beer of the Indians, in fact). The cans can be brought where glass isn’t permitted.—G.R.

12. BLACK ACRE BREWING CO. 5632 E. Washington St., Indianapolis; 317-219-6266; blackacrebrewing.com Irvington’s long-awaited microbrewery has arrived, in every sense of the word. The small-batch artisan brewery (only three barrels) sits right along the “strip,” offering its creative seasonal flavors and a rotating roster of the best local microbrews in one of the city’s most gorgeous taprooms. Black Acre’s first batch of brews—the Green Tea Pale Ale and Robust Porter—hit pint glasses in late April, and Apricot Wheat and Watermelon Wheat are on tap for summer.

13. ROCK BOTTOM RESTAURANT & BREWERY 10 W. Washington St., Indianapolis; 317-681-8180. Also 2801 Lake Circle Dr., Indianapolis; 317-471-8840. rockbottom.com 10. RAM RESTAURANT & BREWERY 140 S. Illinois St., Indianapolis; 317-955-9900. Also 12750 Parkside Dr., Fishers; 317-596-0079. theram.com While Ram is a mostly Midwestern chain, downtown Indy’s locale is looking far to the south for one of the more interesting beer promotions we’ve seen. Starting in May, the End of Days series celebrates the Mayan calendar’s dire warnings on the end of time. Head brewer Andrew Castner plans four to five big imperial beers, all designed to age properly for a huge party on Dec. 31. A decent-sized patio awaits downtown, while even more al fresco seating is offered at the Fishers location. It’s the end of the world as we know it, but we’ll feel fine.

Critic’s pick: This time of year, I really enjoy the Big Horn Blonde. It is lower in alcohol, but it still has a wonderfully refreshing bite to it. This is a great beer that is very conducive to conversation, and will please both men and women alike.—M.R.

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If you’re strolling around downtown on a summer day, you’re likely not far from one of the better urban patios on which to sip a cold beer. And that patio is expanding this summer. Along with the corporate office’s official beers that each store must produce, local brewers at the downtown and Northside locations can add their own signature to the Rock Bottom lineup. Patio full? Grab a growler for a cookout and enjoy on yours.

Critic’s pick: The Kölsch is a great summer thirst quencher and a good example of a traditional German Kölsch, which is only brewed in Indianapolis’ sister city, Cologne, Germany. This light-bodied golden ale has more malt flavor than traditional American lagers, and subtle, fruity pear-like esters also add character. It finishes with a crisp, dry bitterness.—R.S.

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17. BLOOMINGTON BREWING CO. 1795 E. Tenth St., Bloomington; 812-323-2112; bbcbloomington.com

14. FOUNTAIN SQUARE BREWING CO. 1301 Barth Ave., Indianapolis; 317-493-1410; fountainsquarebrewery.com If you could sum up Fountain Square Brewing Co. in one word, it might be funky—its “bullets” (half a growler), its décor, its customers.

(About the only thing that’s not funky is the beer.) The brewery has a roadhouse feel; the ceiling is layered with rough tin siding, and the open garage door, lone pinball machine and outlaw country playlist create a rowdy space. They started serving in September, and have fit right in to the neighborhood ever since.

Critic’s pick: I’ve been very impressed with the Workingman’s Pilsner. This light lager will have the most appeal to fans of Bud, Miller and Coors products, but this is how a Pilsner should taste. This is very refreshing and would be perfect for any spring and summer activities.—M.R.

This brewpub, known as BBC, is one and the same with Lennie’s, a family-friendly pizza place, making it a destination for creativelytopped pies and craft beers. Or, snag a seat at the bar to survey the tanks (though much of its beer is now brewed at an off-site facility across town) and mull the nitro and hand-pull options that are offered. Ruby Bloom Amber is a reliable favorite, and fans of wheat ale should branch out to the limited edition Biere de Mars, a flavorful farmhouse-style beer with mild citrus notes.

18. CUTTERS BREWING CO. 812-335-2337; cuttersbrewing.com Though this year-old Bloomington brewery isn’t yet open to the public, Cutters beer can be found in the area at restaurants, bars and liquor stores (look for the muted-yet-striking bottle labels by Bloomington illustrator Kurtis Beavers). Steady brews include Monon Wheat, Full Court Imperial IPA and Floyd’s Folly Scottish Ale, but experimental batches roll out from time to time.

19. BIG WOODS BREWING CO. 60 Molly Lane, Nashville; 812-988-6000; bigwoodsbeer.com

15. OAKEN BARREL BREWING CO. 50 N. Airport Parkway, Suite L, Greenwood; 317-887-2287; oakenbarrel.com

At this timber-frame brewpub tucked into downtown Nashville, the signature beer is a well-balanced hybrid called Busted Knuckle Ale— dark, rich and smooth with a sweet finish that’s built for summer or winter drinking. Burgers and pizza are offered at the brewpub, or take the group to the family-friendly Big Woods Pizza Co. next door. Big Woods brews a top-notch root beer, too.

Opened back in ‘94, the venerable Oaken Barrel seems to be the place that keeps that little plaza going. If you’ve been to a beer fest in Indiana, it’s likely you’ve tasted one of their brews—Indiana Amber, Gnaw Bone, Razz-Wheat and Snake Pit have been there since the beginning. Beer geeks will rejoice in an expanded brewery and can enjoy the summery Uberweizen at any of their 15 outdoor tables.

20. POWER HOUSE BREWING CO. 322 Fourth St., Columbus; 812-375-8800; powerhousebrewingco.com

Critic’s pick: Oaken Barrel makes a really phenomenal India Pale Ale (IPA) called Superfly IPA. Expect big and bitter flavors that range from sugar-coated grapefruit rind to resinous pine. Grab a pint out on the beer garden and take a growler of this bitter and refreshing IPA home with you.—M.R.

Columbus’ only brewery is housed inside Columbus Bar, with 20 taps devoted to beers from Indiana and beyond. A handful of the offerings are brewed in-house and have locally minded names—Diesel Oil Stout is a nod to Cummins, the diesel engine manufacturer, and Jack the Bum Pale Ale references a man from area folklore.

MEET OUR BEER CRITICS Matt Robinson is a member of Hoosier Beer Geek (hoosierbeergeek.com), a social group and blog devoted to local brews.

Gina Rakers is a member of Hoosier Beer Geek.

Ron Smith is a beer judge, educator, certified cicerone and a home brewer. Smith owns the Carmel marketing firm MarketWise Solutions.

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Wild Things Nothing’s more local, organic or affordable than foraged fare

BY SHAWNDRA MILLER

Farmer and forager Summer Cooper searches central Indiana for wild edibles. Photo by Leah Profancik Photography.

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Summer 2012

from the Good Earth

A

t a time when more and more people are passionate about locally sourced food, gathering your own— whether from your yard, a neighborhood park or wilder places—ranks right up there with growing your own.

During high summer, wild brambles droop with berries, pawpaws fall in the woods and certain weeds run roughshod over a cultivated garden.

Riotous abundance aside, those who know how to look can find food just about anywhere, even growing in the cracks of a sidewalk. It turns out that some people are so in touch with nature’s offerings that the very ground beneath their feet can hold a smorgasbord.

Retiree Dan Anderson, a longtime Indiana Native Plant and Wildflower Society volunteer, puts it like this: “A lot of stuff, you walk on all the time and don’t realize it’s any good” to eat. The unruly corners of his own Castleton-area yard are the best places to find everything from mushrooms to berries to salad greens.

Foraging represents the ultimate in both local food and DIY ethos. In early spring, the Twittersphere is a-tweet with boasts of the firstfound ramps (wild leeks) and, on the culinary scene, people with a flair for finding and preparing wild foods are treated like rock stars.

Hints of that world can be found on the menu of local establishments like The Libertine, The Local and Napolese Pizzeria. Shortseason items like ramps, redbud blooms, chanterelles and violets have all been featured at Napolese, where Chef Tyler Herald sometimes works his specials around Cooper’s foraged items. In summer, he might offer a mulberry cobbler or a tossed salad augmented with wild raspberries.

“I try to use anything I can get my hands on and I love getting it fresh,” he says. He appreciates foragers, saying, “I’ve hunted morels before and not been very successful—all I end up with is a couple hours walking in the woods. To me as a chef, I think it’s really cool and I definitely want to support it.”

The Need To Weed Yet, as Anderson points out, you don’t have to go too far to find forage-worthy plants. Cooper lives west of Indianapolis on her grandparents’ farm, where there’s plenty of acreage to explore, and she does. Still, just walking out her front door provides a bounty: “To my left is sheep sorrel, there’s wood sorrel and of course there’s dandelions all through my yard.”

More than Morels For do-it-yourselfers, not only does foraged food have the bonus of being free, plucking young leaves from a basswood tree or sautéing a pan of wild-gathered daylily buds seems to feed more than a physical hunger. Herbalist Greg Monzel says that for him, foraging is an essential part of appreciating nature.

Near-Eastsider Monzel was just a boy when his dad and grandpa took him out searching for morels, now and then pointing out some other edible plant as an aside. At 12, he read the Euell Gibbons classic Stalking the Wild Asparagus and his eyes were opened. “I started with berries and moved on from there to ‘trail nibbles’— things you can pick and eat on a hike,” he says. As an adult he began to study the nutrition and sustenance side of foraging, along with his study of botany as an herbalist. Now, he searches out wild foods regularly—for their medicinal properties as well as edibility.

Meanwhile, young farmer Summer Cooper similarly started out berrying and mushrooming in the country, but her enthusiasm has carried her far since those days. Cooper began selling foraged foods at market alongside her Sunny Creek Farm produce last year, and found that many people were eager to try a taste. (Look for her cultivated and wild offerings at Carmel and Broad Ripple Farmers’ Markets as well as the City Market this summer.)

“There’s a whole world beyond blackberries and morels,” she says.

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RAW-SOME MULBERRY PIE Recipe courtesy of Greg and Colleen Monzel Another name for this dish could be Matrimony Mulberry Pie, because it was what Colleen Donahoe Monzel made the first time she hung out with her now-husband, Greg. Colleen isn’t one to measure out ingredients, so feel free to approximate to your liking or use whatever amount of the ingredients you have on hand.

1 cup raw whole almonds ¼ cup chopped dates 4 cups fresh wild mulberries (or any other berry) 1 tablespoon psyllium husk powder Local raw honey, to taste

1.

Prepare the raw whole almonds by soaking them in water overnight. The peels will pop off after soaking—use your hands to peel what doesn’t fall off naturally.

2.

To make the crust: Mash together soaked, peeled, chopped almonds and chopped dates and press mixture in the bottom of a pie pan.

3.

To make the filling: Blend mulberries, psyllium husk and honey in a blender. Pour the mixture into piecrust and let it sit in the fridge for an hour or two.

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Every part of the dandelion is edible, in case you were wondering, and though the summertime flavors can run a tad bitter, leaves picked from a shaded plant might be less so. According to Monzel, who enjoys the ubiquitous dandelion all summer long, the blooms are rich in lecithin, which is brain food.

Hang around these folks for any length of time and you start to wonder if that irritating weed you’re constantly pulling from your flowerbed might actually be tasty. Purslane, for example, is a common weed that Cooper pulls from the fields and saves for the dinner table (see sidebar).

Indeed, a number of delicious wild plants are invasive. In rural areas, wild mints and parsnips grow ferociously, causing grief for many a farmer. Cooper laughs, “I feel like a lot of the things I get excited about, other people find a nuisance.”

Who hasn’t cursed the mess left by an exuberant mulberry tree? But pick those berries and you’ve got a treat straight from untrammeled nature, free of charge.

In fact, fans of foraging consider wild edibles a great untapped resource in troubled times. Cooper says, “You don’t have to spend a lot of money to eat well. Organic food has gotten really expensive and sometimes seems like something only the elite can afford. But you can go out and get all these nutritious foods for free in the wild.”

From Left: Elderberries can be foraged for jelly and pies; Cooper separates the edible stem from a Solomon's seal plant; Horsetail is used as an herbal remedy and can be dried for tea; Unripe black walnuts go in to a liqueur at the Libertine. Elderberry photo by Greg Monzel, others

by Summer Cooper.

A SUMMERTIME SMORGASBORD Curious about the wild edibles out there? Here’s a primer on what plants can be foraged in Central Indiana: Berries For guidance on edible plants, nothing beats a personalized tour. Greg Monzel’s plant walks (monzelherbs.com) are popular initiations for the curious. (Monzel, who emphasizes that there are only seven plants in Indiana that can kill you, also recommends Bradford Angier’s field guide.) But one easy way to start foraging on your own is to scout out brambles at the edge of woodsy areas. Blackberries and raspberries grow extensively in the right conditions, and while the fruit may be slightly smaller and more tart than commercial varieties, you can’t beat the flavor burst—perhaps over ice cream or in a salad. Mulberries and serviceberries offer tremendous bounty; sweetness varies depending on the tree, so taste before you fill your bucket.

Elderberries are sour but can be made into syrup, wine, jelly or pies. Fencerows and forests are a good place to look for this understory shrub; Monzel says he has seen elderberry clumps in Hamilton County “as large as your house.”

Pawpaws Also known as the “Indiana banana,” pawpaws are our biggest native fruit—a creamy, delicious relative of the jackfruit.

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The rich tropical flavor reminds Monzel of “vanilla-banana-mango custard,” and he says the big seeds can be saved and made into jewelry. In late summer, look for pawpaw trees in forest clearings.

Shaking the trunk will bring the barely ripe fruit tumbling.

Salad Greens If you garden, you can do as Cooper does and save purslane when you pull weeds. Succulent and tender, “it’s kind of like spinach but it grows in hot weather, when a lot of greens don’t grow very well,” she says. Young leaves of basswood or linden trees are among Monzel’s favorite greens.

The heart-shaped leaves have a mild flavor and are quite tender if picked when small.

Daylilies Common daylilies grow prolifically along roadsides.

Though some like to stir-fry them with other ingredients, Cooper likes the delicately flavored buds simply sautéed in olive oil with salt and pepper. Other uses include pickling, making fritters or drying and grinding as a cornstarch substitute. Open flowers can be stuffed like squash blossoms.

Summer 2012

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Chefs, Growers Pair Up For

‘Dig In’ Annual fest showcases Indiana food at its best

BY ERIN DAY • PHOTOS BY WHONSETLER PHOTOGRAPHY

I

t’s a date worth marking on your calendar now. Aug. 26 is the third annual Dig In, a food festival at White River State Park that connects Indiana chefs and growers with diners who like to know where their food comes from.

It’s an event that is helping to both define and reflect Central Indiana’s food scene.

For the event, chefs collaborate with farmers and food producers to create dishes that highlight the farmers and producers’ ingredients, and hand out samples to the crowd.

Indiana breweries and wineries also offer samples and sell by the glass. Talks by local food experts and live music from Indiana musicians round out the day.

For the $25 admission price, event goers can fill their bellies with samples from every booth. More than 25 food booths were present last year. The lineup of this year’s participating chefs and farmers and their sample dishes wasn’t set as of press time, but

Opposite: Bottom right: Gunthorp Farms pork tacos with all the fixins’ by Chef David Tallent of Restaurant Tallent in Bloomington.

Bottom left: Smoked turkey and ginger sausage with blueberry mostarda and root vegetable kraut by Chris Eley of Smoking Goose and Goose the Market in Indianapolis.

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the flavor of the event can be gleaned from past offerings, which include

“It is gratifying to see how many people are interested in Indiana food,” Freeman says.

•

Nearly 5,000 people attended last year’s Dig In and 5,000 tickets will be available for this year’s event.

•

•

Grilled bison tostada with lime-pickled cantaloupe, from chef Craig Baker of The Local Eatery and Pub and Cook’s Bison Ranch in Wolcottville.

Duck and goat cheese dumplings with sweet and sour peach sauce, from chef Brad Gates of Brad Gates Catering and Maple Leaf Farms in Milford.

Bread pudding with caramel sauce, from Keltie Sullivan Domina of Keltie’s Restaurant & Catering in Westfield and Big Brick House Bakery in Wabash.

The goal of the event is to educate Hoosiers about food that is grown and raised throughout the state, says Eric Freeman, director of Dig In. The samples showcase chefs’ talents and the quality of locally sourced ingredients, and also give home cooks ideas for using foods that might seem puzzling to prepare, such as bison.

The idea for Dig In dates back to 2008, when local chefs Thom England (an Ivy Tech Culinary Arts Instructor) and Neal Brown (of Pizzology and The Libertine) were inspired to give a summer food festival a local makeover.

Aaron Butts, the executive chef of Joseph Decuis, an upscale farm-to-fork restaurant in Roanoke, says the face-to-face interaction with diners that Dig In provides is key: Restaurants and producers gain new customers, and attendees get a chance to meet the farms that supply local restaurants.

“I’ve always found that people want to support local agriculture, they just have a hard time finding it,” Butts says. “The people who attend are already familiar with the Indy restaurants, but maybe not the farmers.”

Details: Info and tickets are available at digindiana.org; Tickets start at $25 and increase in price closer to the event, to $40 at the gate. VIP ticket is $60 and allows entry an hour before public opening at noon. $10 for children 10 and under.

Summer 2012

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edibleIndy

Last fall, we asked our readers to vote for individuals and businesses that are making significant contributions to our local food community. The results are in and we are proud to announce the winners!

Farm/Farmer Traders Point Creamery

Chef/Restaurant Lemley’s Catering

Gourmet/Retail Simply Sweet Shoppe

Food Artisan Alexa Lemley

Beverage Artisan Sun King Brewery

Non-Profit Indy Winter Farmers Market

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“I really wanted to satisfy everyone with just one stop.”

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K

ris Parmelee was not always this into food. As a working mom of three boys, she often found herself with no time at the end of the day to cook a healthy meal. She and her husband got used to zigzagging around town, picking up fast food and carryout meals to satisfy all five palates in her family.

day’s options include meat-based, vegetarian, gluten-free and kidfriendly entrees, along with in-season sides and desserts.

And she wasn’t happy about it.

Sides and salads are about $4, with entrees ranging from $7 to $12.

Portions are individually packaged and adorned with labels specifying cooking or serving instructions, following a list of ingredients.

Special orders for larger quantities are available by calling ahead.

“I really wanted to satisfy everyone with just one stop,” she says. “I wanted a meal that was homemade, healthy, calorie-controlled. Not these over-flavored, over-sauced meals we were eating.”

The seasons dictate her menu, and Parmelee relies heavily on local farmers, including Fischer Farms for beef and pork and FarmIndy (formerly Seldom Seen Farms) for produce.

An idea was born. And like so many ideas, it was born out of necessity. Why not create a service that offers to-go meals for the health-minded?

“I try to use organic ingredients wherever I can, and local ingredients where it makes sense,” she says.

Picky home crowd inspires tasty takeout at Avec Moi

BY CAROLINE MOSEY • PHOTO BY CHRISTINA RICHEY Today, Parmelee runs that service, called Avec Moi. She makes and sells to-go food on weekdays from her Broad Ripple storefront at 62nd Street and College Avenue.

As an avid recipe collector with a penchant for nutrition and simplicity, Parmelee has a knack for creating dishes that make people feel nourished. Her repertoire includes rich, creamy Butternut squash lasagna, Asian-style ribs, orange-pistachio bulgar, green salads topped with roasted red pepper vinaigrette, even heavenly coconut cake and fudgy brownies.

While Parmelee has no formal culinary training, she has exactly what she needs to create food that people want to buy: some trusted recipes, a passion for cooking and an approach to food that resonates with the people in her community.

“I like clean food,” she says. So she devised a plan to start cooking clean, healthy meals that people could buy and take home. In early 2011, she rented out space to cook at Indy’s Kitchen one afternoon a week, and would send emails to her friends and network about what dishes she’d be preparing and when they would be ready for pickup.

As her business began to grow, Parmelee decided to jump in with both feet. She left her job as a fundraising consultant to open an Avec Moi storefront last summer. She chose the name, which means “with me” in French, as she began sharing her passion for food with her customers.

Every weekday, Parmelee offers a variety of freshly prepared, organic, healthy and often local dishes. The menu is posted daily on her website, happygofoodie.com, and orders can be placed online with a selected pickup time, or called in, or picked up on the spot. Each www.edibleindy.com

The kitchen at Avec Moi isn’t so different from the kitchen at the Parmelee house, where dinner needs to please some choosy eaters.

“While some kids are adventurous eaters, mine are not,” she says of her boys, ages 7–11.

Many of her kids’ favorite dishes are loaded with vegetables that Parmelee has learned to expertly “hide” by mixing them into sauces and ground meats. In the summers, her family spends much of their time poolside, enlisting the grill for cooking quick lunches and dinners.

“One of my favorite meals is grilling all kinds of different vegetables and stuffing them into a wrap,” she says. “I love to be creative on the grill.”

It’s this creativity and passion for simple flavors that continues to make people fall in love with her food. Speculating on the direction of Avec Moi, Parmelee says she would love to expand on the concept, possibly opening another location in the future. But for the time being, she intends to continue building on her original ideas and recipes, learning as she goes.

“The whole thing,” she says, “is one big experiment.”

Details: 701 E. 62nd St., Indianapolis; 317-426-3853, happygofoodie.com.

Find Parmlee’s recipes for kid-friendly Mac and “Cheese” and Turkey Sliders at edibleindy.com.

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summer 2012 edible events JUNE

Info: RSVP to 317-867-4811 by June 8. www.litchfieldlandscape.com

VINTAGE INDIANA WINE FESTIVAL

SLOW FOOD INDY FATHER’S DAY PICNIC

What: Indiana wineries offer samples of more than 200 varieties at this downtown fest with food and entertainment.

When: June 2, 11am–7pm Where: Military Park, New York and West streets in downtown Indianapolis Cost: $22 in advance; $25 at the gate; $10 for designated drivers; $5 for ages 6–20; free for ages 5 and under.

Info: www.vintageindiana.com

LITTLE RED DOOR COOKING DEMO What: Little Red Door Cancer Agency in hosts cooking demos using local products every Wednesday in June. On June 6, Chef Thom England will be featured.

When: June 6, 11am–1pm Where: Indianapolis City Market, 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis.

Cost: Free Info: www.indycm.com

BLOOMINGTON CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL What: Indiana microbrewers offer samples of more than 100 beers on the grounds of the closed limestone mill featured in “Breaking Away.” Must be 21 to attend.

When: June 9, 3–9 pm Where: Woolery Stone Mill, 2200 W. Tapp Road, Bloomington.

Cost: $35 admission in advance, $40 at the gate; $50 for VIP ticket.

Info: www.brewersofindianaguild.com

CHOW DOWN MIDTOWN What: Participating restaurants offer $30 three-course meals daily.

When: June 11-24 Where: Varies; participating restaurants are listed online prior to the event.

Cost: Free to attend.

Info: www.chowdownmidtown.org

TOUR THE GARDENS OF LITCHFIELD LANDSCAPE What: Tour the display gardens of Litchfield Landscape, which will showcase trends in garden and landscape design. Local wine, beer, and fare will be available.

When: June 14, 6pm–9pm Where: 505 W. 186th St., Westfield Cost: Free

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What: Bring a dish to share and plates, cups and utensils to this pitch-in picnic at FarmIndy.

Non-alcoholic beverages available; attendees can bring beer and wine. Family activities include farm tours, hayrides and lawn games.

When: June 17, 2–5pm Where: FarmIndy, Needham.

Cost: Free Info: Reservations are required at www.slowfoodfathers.eventbrite.com

SMOKE ON THE SQUARE What: Come out and watch professionals from Indiana and the Midwest cook in a BBQ competition while enjoying live music, kid’s activities and food.

When: June 22, 5–9pm and June 23, 9am– 8pm Where: Courthouse square downtown Franklin Cost: Free Info: www.DiscoverDowntownFranklin.com

TASTE OF BLOOMINGTON What: Dozens of Bloomington restaurants, breweries and wineries offer samples of their fare at this festival, which includes live entertainment.

When: June 23, 3–11pm Where: Showers Common, 401 N. Morton St., Bloomington Cost: Admission is $6; free for ages 12 and under. Food items are $3 and under.

Info: www.visitbloomington.com/taste

GROWING CULINARY HERBS What: Learn how to grow and maintain a culinary herb garden at this session taught by master gardener Julie Iverson.

When: July 14, 10–11am Where: Fall Creek Gardens, 3005 Central Ave., Indianapolis Cost: Free Info: www.fallcreekgardens.org

BBQ WINE TRAIL What: Each of the six wineries on the Indy Wine Trail will offer barbecue and wine. Get an Indy Wine Trail 6–bottle tote at the last winery.

When: July 14–16, noon–6pm Where: Wineries throughout Indianapolis.

Cost: $25 in advance, $30 at the door. $12 for designated drivers.

Info: www.indywinetrail.com

BREWERS GUILD OF INDIANA MICROBREWERS FESTIVAL What: Get to know local microbrews as dozens of breweries from across the state offer samples at Opti Park. Must be 21 to attend.

When: July 14 Where: Optimist Park and Indianapolis Art Center, 820 E. 67th St. Cost: $40 admission in advance; $50 for VIP ticket.

Info: www.brewersofindianaguild.com

MARKET SHARE

JULY

When: July 19, 5:30–8:30pm What: Celebrate City Market’s 125th anniversary with food from its restaurants, plus live entertainment and other activities.

Where: 222. E. Market St., Indianapolis Cost: $25 in advance; $35 at the door, $100 for VIP ticket, which includes a bourbon tasting in the catacombs.

Info: www.indycm.com

BEER BLOGGERS CONFERENCE

DEVOUR DOWNTOWN

What: Educational sessions, tastings and more are offered at this international conference for bloggers and writers who cover the beer industry.

When: July 13–15 Where: Indianapolis Marriott Downtown, 350 W. Maryland St. Cost: $95–$295 Info: www.beerbloggersconference.org

What: Participating restaurants offer $30 three-course meals daily.

When: July 30–Aug. 12 Where: Varies; participating restaurants are listed online prior to the event.

Cost: Free to attend.

Info: www.devourdowntown.org

Summer 2012

advertiser Directory AUGUST

Our heart felt thanks to all of our advertisers for their support in helping to grow and sustain Edible Indy and our community. Please make a point of supporting these businesses and organizations.

INDIANA STATE FAIR What: Summer’s main event includes livestock competitions, classic fair food, a new local food pavilion, concerts and rides and games on the midway.

When: Aug. 3–19 Where: Indiana State Fairgrounds, at E. 38th St. and Fall Creek Parkway, Indianapolis.

Cost: Admission is $10; free for ages 5 and under.

Info: www.indianastatefair.com

PLANTING THE FALL GARDEN What: Learn what it takes to start a fall garden at this session taught by master gardener Ginny Roberts.

When: Aug. 18, 10–11:30am Where: Unleavened Bread Cafe, 3001 Central Ave., Indianapolis.

Cost: Free Info: www.fallcreekgardens.org

DIG IN What: Indiana chefs and farmers gather to prepare food using locally-grown and made ingredients. Local wineries and breweries offer samples, too. Presentations and live music round out the event.

When: Aug. 26, noon–6pm Where: White River State Park, at W. Washington Street and White River Parkway Cost: $25 in advance; $40 at the gate. VIP ticket is $60 and allows entry an hour before public opening at noon. $10 for children 10 and under.

Info: www.digindiana.org

GOING LOCAL WEEK What: This one-week challenge asks people to eat a locally grown food at each meal.

Though there is not a main event, people are encouraged to attend farmers markets, eat at restaurants that source from local growers and use local ingredients when cooking at home.

When: Sept. 2–8 Info: www.going-local.info

A. Arnold World Class Relocation 8161 Zionsville Road Indianapolis, IN 46268 870.5777 • aarnoldmoving.com Artisano’s Oils and Spices 1101-B E. 86th Street, Indianapolis, IN 46240 251.4100 • artisanosoils.com Best Chocolate In Town 880 Massachusetts Avenue Indianapolis, IN 46204 636.2800 • bestchocolateintown.com Binford Farmers Market 62nd and Binford Blvd. binfordfarmersmarket.com Bloomingfoods 3220 E. 3rd Street 316 W. 6th Street 419 E. Kirkwood Bloomington, IN bloomingfoods.coop

Just Rennie’s Cookies 812.490.8098 • justrennies.com Sun King Brewery 135 N. College Ave. Indianapolis, IN 46202 Sunkingbrewing.com The Simply Sweet Shoppe 30 N. Rangeline Road Carmel, IN 46032 Simplysweetshoppe.com Traders Point Creamery 9101 Moore Road Zionsville, IN 46077 733.1700 • tpforganics.com Zionsville Farmers' Market Main and Hawthorne Streets zionsvillefarmersmarket.org

Broad Ripple Farmers Market behind Broad Ripple Magnet High School broadripplefarmersmarket.org Buy Fresher: Piazza Produce, Inc. 5941 West 82nd Street Indianapolis, IN 46268 872.0101 • buyfresher.com Dig-IN, A Taste of Indiana Digindiana.org Indiana State Fair Commission Indianastatefair.com Green B.E.A.N Delivery 377.0470 greenbeandelivery.com Green Clipping greenpieceindy.com The Green Market 9101 Moore Road traderspointcreamery.com Pogue’s Run Grocer 2828 E. 10th Street Indianapolis, IN 46201 426.4963 • poguesrungrocer.org

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last Bite LIVING STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE Recipe by Audrey Barron Serves 6 For crust: ½ cup almonds ½ cup cashews ¾ cup dates, pitted and chopped 1 tablespoon coconut sugar 1 tablespoon water ¼ teaspoon sea salt For strawberry sauce: 1 cup strawberries 2 tablespoons organic maple syrup ½ teaspoon lemon juice ⅛ teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup strawberries, sliced and set aside

Strawberry Shortcake Gets a Makeover

For “cream” topping: 1 cup cashews, soaked 4 hours and rinsed ¼ cup water 2 tablespoons maple syrup ⅛ teaspoon vanilla extract

1.

To make crust, process the nuts until coarsely chopped. Add dates, sugar, water and sea salt and process until dough-like consistency with small chunks.

2.

Press ¼ cup of crust mixture into the bottom of a small, round cookie cutter to form a circular crust. Repeat with the remaining crust mixture. Set aside.

3.

To make sauce, blend 1 cup strawberries, maple syrup, lemon juice and vanilla until smooth. Set aside.

4.

To make topping, blend cashews, water, maple syrup and vanilla until smooth. Set aside.

5.

To assemble each strawberry shortcake, place sliced strawberries on top of the crust, then drizzle strawberry sauce over berries. Top with a dollop of “cream” and another drizzle of strawberry sauce.

BY AUDREY BARRON • PHOTO BY CHRISTINA RICHEY

S

ummertime growing up meant long lazy days, bike rides, flashlight tag, barbecues and one of my very favorite memories—fresh strawberry shortcake. I could taste summer in each bite! Looking back, I realize that our strawberry dessert wasn’t the healthiest. We used store-bought cakes and whipped topping full of preservatives and other questionable ingredients.

Years later, strawberry shortcake is still one of my very favorite desserts. But now I’m making a much healthier and, dare I say, tastier version. This recipe is gluten-free and dairy-free and is made without white sugar, but it is overflowing with organic, fresh goodness.

Audrey Barron is an Indianapolis raw food chef and owner of Be Bliss Healing Therapies, providing holistic healing and education. www.beofbliss.com.

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