Edible Season

Sweet tart

Persimmons offer a fall bounty of possibilities

BY AMY LYNCH

W

hen fall rolls around, persimmons pack a potent punch of authentic Hoosier flavor.

This humble little fruit is revered in southern portions of the state, where persimmon trees are common. Without question, the most popular preparation is persimmon pudding, a spiced gingerbread-like cake served in scoops or squares with a dollop of whipped cream on top.

For some, persimmons signal one thing: It’s fall. For other, it means—well—not much at all. The Southern Indiana gem is less known even as far north as Indianapolis.

In the fall, pastry chef Cindy Hawkins tucks persimmon tarts and bread pudding into the display case at Circle City Sweets, her bakery located at Indianapolis City Market. But Hawkins, who is from Plymouth, says she didn’t come across the southern fruit in northern Indiana.

“I had never heard of or seen persimmons until I was the pastry chef at the [former] Tavern at the Temple,” Hawkins says. “Chef Brad Gates got a box of them in and said, ‘Cindy, make something with these.’ I didn’t even know how to cut into one; Brad had to show me. Then I started researching recipes.”

Bearing a slight resemblance to a plum, the dusky-orange Indiana fruit is not to be confused with the larger tomato-sized Fuyu variety that originated in Northern Asia and Japan. Fuyu persimmons can be found in grocery stores and are more appropriate for raw preparations in salads and other recipes; Indiana persimmons are more often than not processed into pulp.

“The Indiana ones are much smaller, and I think they are better for puréeing,” Hawkins says. “If I want to use slices for a dessert, I typically pick up the Fuyu persimmons.”

Persimmon season typically starts in September and lasts through the first frost. According to tradition, Indiana persimmons are best gathered only after the fruit has ripened completely and fallen to the ground. Patience counts: Biting into an astringent persimmon too early can cause a serious mouth pucker, but when they are fully ripe the taste is rich, mellow and sweet. Caveat emptor: Prepping persimmons for puréeing requires something of a commitment. After gathering, the fruit must be thoroughly washed and then strained through a food mill or colander to remove the seeds and skins. The end result is the prized pulp that can be incorporated into cakes, muffins, breads, sauces and, of course, persimmon pudding.

Or, try this timesaver: Fresh persimmon pulp is available seasonally at farmers’ markets, orchards and natural food stores. Apple Acres (812-279-9721) on S.R. 37 north of Mitchell offers local persimmon pulp at its general store in the fall, and Persimmon Pleasures (PersimmonPleasures.com) in Bedford sells and ships frozen pulp (as well as persimmon chocolate chip cookies) yearround. Expect to pay between $5 and $8 per pint.

Want to simply enjoy the fruit without all the labor? Persimmon pudding stays on the dessert menu year-round at the Spring Mill Inn (877-563-4371) at Spring Mill State Park in Mitchell.

LAWRENCE COUNTY PERSIMMON FESTIVAL PERSIMMON PUDDING

From the Lawrence County Tourism Commission

A past Mitchell Persimmon Festival recipe contest winner, this old-fashioned persimmon pudding is a fairly representative example of the classic Southern Indiana preparation. This traditional Hoosier dessert is best served warm, cut into squares and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a spoonful of whipped cream.

Makes one 9- by 13-inch baking dish

2 cups Indiana persimmon pulp 2 cups sugar 3 eggs 1½ cups buttermilk 1 teaspoon baking soda 1½ cups flour ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon baking powder ¼ cup butter, melted ¼ cup milk ½ teaspoon vanilla

1. Mix persimmon pulp, sugar and eggs, then add buttermilk with baking soda stirred in. Sift flour, salt, cinnamon and baking powder and add to wet ingredients.

2. Mix in the butter, milk and vanilla.

3. Pour mixture into a greased 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Bake at 325° for 45 minutes to 1 hour. 1. In a food processor, process the gingersnaps with salt. 2. Add melted butter and vanilla and pulse until incorporated. Press into 6 tart pans. Set aside while preparing the persimmon filling.

By Cindy Hawkins, Circle City Sweets

Hawkins often makes these pretty little tarts for her Circle City Sweets display case in the fall, along with an occasional persimmon bread pudding for good measure.

Makes 6 tarts

For the gingersnap crust: 2½ cups gingersnap crumbs 2 pinches salt 6½ tablespoon butter, melted ¾ teaspoon vanilla

For the persimmon filling:

5 Fuyu persimmons ⅔ cup milk ½ cup brown sugar 1 egg ⅔ cup flour ¼ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ⅛ teaspoon nutmeg ¼ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter, melted 3 tablespoons raisins ⅓ cup walnuts, toasted and chopped 2 teaspoons candied orange peel 2 teaspoons candied ginger, chopped 1. Peel and slice two of the persimmons ¼ inch thick. Keep 6 slices for centers of tarts. Dice the rest of the two persimmons to make ⅔ cup and set aside.

2. Peel the remaining persimmons and place in food processor. Purée and measure out 1 cup. Put the 1 cup of purée back into the processor and add the milk, brown sugar and egg.

Process for about 8 seconds.

3. In small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Add dry ingredients to the food processor and pulse until incorporated. Add the melted butter and pulse until incorporated. Add the chopped persimmons, raisins, walnuts, orange peel and ginger and pulse twice. 4. Pour the filling into the crusts.

Smooth the surface and top each tart with a persimmon slice. 5. Bake for about 35 minutes at 275° until a knife inserted about an inch from the edge comes out clean.

Cool completely on a rack. Brush a little corn syrup on the persimmon to keep it from drying out.

It’s A Persimmon Party Situated about 10 miles south of Bedford, the little town of Mitchell takes its persimmons so seriously, it celebrates the fruit with a festival each September. George Bishop, a former local teacher, principal and school superintendent, is credited with founding the popular Lawrence County event 66 years ago. The festivities have grown through the years, now drawing more than 100,000 people to town for a full week of all things persimmon including recipe contests, carnival rides and a parade. The 2012 Mitchell Persimmon Festival runs Sept. 22–29 and is sponsored by the Greater Mitchell

Chamber of Commerce. For more information, visit PersimmonFestival.org.