Notable Edibles

A Sweet Find in Fortville

10 S. Main St. is the address of an old five-and-dime store in downtown Fortville that has been transformed into a lively ice cream parlor and art gallery. A quick drive from the northeast side of Indy, where Hamilton, Marion and Hancock counties merge, is where you will find this great little town and this sweet-tooth hangout.

At the aptly named Indulge, the star is a late-’40s soda fountain complete with spinning stools. That’s where guests can order up all kinds of confections, from ice cream to fizzy drinks to candy. Indulge is open daily.

Owner Lenzy Hendrix, a Fortville native, converted the building into a “grown-up spot where you can bring the kids” and, well, indulge a bit. He describes it as a place “where Lady Gaga fuses with Willie Wonka.”

Couches and chairs invite guests to linger over their coffee or handmade malts, milk shakes, sodas and cherry Cokes. Behind the fountain, candy is on display, from kids’ favorites like M&M’s and suckers to gourmet chocolates and truffles, sourced from Good’s Candy Shop in Anderson. For a surreal Willie Wonka–style treat, order an ice cream sandwich made with ginormous cookies, made in house.

Indulge is also home to an eclecticart marketplace that evokes Lady Gaga and changes seasonally. Twelve local artists display and sell their wares.

Hendrix tells of the venue’s original owners who, in 1948, opened the five-and-dime with the same soda fountain. The Heche brothers created a signature drink that Hendrix still serves today—the marshmallow Coke. This delicious concoction comes with a dose of drama: The drink could burst in your face if it’s not made correctly, by placing a straw in the Coke prior to ladling on the marshmallow cream.

The award winning banana split at Indulge

—Cathy Bayse

Details: 10 S. Main St., Fortville. Monday through Saturday 11-3pm and 6pm-10pm , Sunday 6 to 10pm 317-660-4460

Indiana Represented at Terra Madre

Four Indiana natives have been selected to join thousands from around the globe in Turin, Italy, for Terra Madre, Slow Food International’s biennial meeting. Terra Madre draws delegates from 130 countries—including farmers, artisans and policy makers—all striving to do nothing less than change the world through food.

Joining the 220-strong U.S. delegation this October will be Todd and Kathleen Jameson of FarmIndy, Kirsten Serrano of Lafayette’s Small Wonder farm and La Scala restaurant, and Indianapolisborn food activist Jennifer Burns. Todd Jameson is also a delegate to Slow Food’s International Congress, held every five years and this year happening in conjunction with Terra Madre. This group will shape the direction of the organization’s global work and present a document detailing the critical need for a healthy food system.

A prime attraction is the Salone del Gusto, “an eco-gastronome’s dream come true,” says Todd Jameson. This international trade show features traditional foods from around the world, many on the verge of extinction due to the impact of global industrialization.

“We’re working hard to preserve food culture in Third World countries that have yet to be subject to large-scale agribusiness and industrialized farming methods,” Jameson says. “We believe traditional agriculture could be and should be the backbone of our food system.”

Slow Food International, the growing movement that promotes sustainable food and traditional agriculture, has opened the five-day gathering to the public for the first time, and anticipates some 200,000 attendees.

—Shawndra Miller

Details: TerraMadre.org

Pop Culture

Indy’s best salty-sweet popcorn treats for fall

Sweet corn season has come and gone, but popcorn vendors are ready to take the reins and wow us with their fluffy, flavorful creations.

With two Broad Ripple stores and a kiosk at the Indianapolis International Airport, Just Pop In (JustPopInOnline.com) offers a dazzlingly colorful display of caramel corn. Yummy fall-themed flavors include pumpkin spice, green apple and an orange variety drizzled with white and dark chocolate just perfect for Halloween. Football fans cheer the vibrant blueberry “Hut” popcorn from the Pop Life collection, a nod to Indy’s home team.

Zionsville-based Inga’s Popcorn (IngasPopcorn.com) exploded onto the local scene last year, distinguished by its use of certified organic popcorn grown by Mozingo Farms in Brownsburg and made-from-scratch caramel recipes. In addition to selling at farmers’ markets and online, the company has opened a store in Bloomington where customers can consider flavors like signature caramel, snickerdoodle and white cheddar. Look for a decadent turtle-ish caramel with pecans and chocolate to make an appearance for the holidays.

Customers have to keep an eye on Twitter or Facebook to learn the daily location of Scout’s Treat Truck (ScoutsTreats.com), but the indulgent cupcakes and savory popcorn make the effort well worthwhile. The popcorn line features caramel, Chicago mix, sharp cheddar, jalapeño, and sour cream and chives, with caramel apple and additional flavors set to debut this fall. And, Scout’s new cupcake-and-popcorn bar at BE, The Boutique in South Broad Ripple, serves as a fun stationary destination for sampling the goods.

—Amy Lynch

Bringing Back Butchers

Cellophane-wrapped steaks, beware: The Savory Swine is changing the way Columbus shops for meats.

Lisa Abendroth opened her specialty meat shop in downtown Columbus this summer to offer high-quality meats coupled with corner-store customer service. In addition to gourmet gelato, imported cheeses and hard-to-find wines, the glass cases at The Savory Swine showcase a seasonal cast of hormone- and antibiotic-free meats. Custom cuts are encouraged.

“If you see New York strip steaks, but you don’t like the thickness of them, we’ll cut you a new one,” she says.

You can watch Skip Chambers and Rovair Whitehead, the shop’s two butchers, do just that. Wide windows wrap around the in-store cutting room where the butchers work, giving customers a peek at the art of meat cutting—something that supermarkets have nearly eliminated.

Such service means that unusual cuts— like tri-tip, a cut of sirloin more commonly found in Abendroth’s native California—are now available for the asking. Gourmands can savor the Swine’s jalapeño burger patties and dry-aged pork chops, and fans of Indianapolis’ Smoking Goose Meatery will find its cured and smoked meats and sausages in stock.

To complete the meal, the shop also features a wine-tasting counter and plenty of recommendations to help customers find the perfect bottle for the perfect cut.

—Sarah Suksiri

Details: 410 Washington St., Columbus; 812-657-7752; TheSavorySwine.com