Edible Indy Winter 2013 | No. 10

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edible INDY º

Celebrating the Local Food Culture of Central Indiana, Season by Season Winter 2013 Issue Ten

Around the Kitchen Sink with Jeff Saturday Have a Hoosier Holiday The Bounty of the Hunt Member of Edible Communities edibleIndy.com

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edible INDY WINTER 2013


Contents 2

HOOSIER THOUGHTS

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FROM THE EDITORS TABLE

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HAVE YOU HEARD News and Noteworthy

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WHAT’S IN SEASON

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FARMER’S MARKET DIRECTORY

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EDIBLE TREATS Have a Hoosier Holiday

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LIQUID ASSETS Ruby Sue Cocktail

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FROM THE GOOD EARTH The Bounty of the Hunt

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COOKING WITH TWINKLE VAN WINKLE A Slice of Hoosier Goodness

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AROUND THE KITCHEN SINK Cooking Up Conversation with Jeff Saturday

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SEASONAL SIPS Sparkle and Pop

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SMITH BITES Gluten-free, Grain-free Sour Cream Pumpkin Cakelettes Party Stuffed Dates

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LAST BITE Grandma Yoder’s Cinnamon Rolls

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EDIBLE EVENTS

RECIPES 14 Ruby Sue Cocktail 15 Pea Pot Pie 17 Bacon-Wrapped Venison Tenderloin Medallions 18 Lemon Chess Pie 23 Gluten-free, Grain-free Sour Cream Pumpkin Cakelettes Party Stuffed Dates 24 Grandma Yoder’s Cinnamon Rolls ON THE COVER An 18 degree January morning at Normandy Farms near 79th Street and Marsh Road on the northwest side of Indianapolis. Professional photographer, David Lawrence is an expert retouch artist who loves to shoot landscapes in gorgeous light. You can find more of his work at pixelpurfectphotography.com Photo on this page: 240sweet Artisan Marshmallows by Stacy Able

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Hoosier Thoughts

edible INDY

A WELCOME NOTE FROM THE NEW OWNERS

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hen we were approached about the possibility of purchasing Edible Indy, I was filled with excitement, anxiety, and a sense of potential renewal. Supporting local businesses where ever I am is something I believe is important. With today’s information highway, we have such great tools to find those secret local only spots. Back in the days of growing up, my family would take a Saturday or a Sunday and hop in the car driving to find a pumpkin patch, a Christmas tree farm, a root beer stand or sometimes we would hit the mother load and come upon a local ice cream place like the Chief in Goshen, Indiana where I grew up. Those days continue for me as I grow up and have a family of my own. My goal is what ever the occasion or where ever I go, to find the perfect place with the perfect foods! Sometimes I use a website, yelp, trip advisor or sometimes I do it the ole fashion way....drive, especially this time of the year. I love pointing out the animals to my girls, seeing the cornfields being picked, watching the snow fall on the pine trees, and finding those little spots like Bean Blossom where a treasure might sneak up on us. This is why my husband and I purchased Edible Indy. Our goal for the publication is to bring our excitement of cooking, community and farming together in one beautiful issue every quarter. Partnerships within central Indiana for us are not an option, but something entirely necessary for the success of the food culture and education within the community. Our plans for 2014 are to have a presence at food events, support the local causes, bring more education through our newsletter, blog, social media, radio programming, and a partnership with PBS television. Heather Tallman, our managing editor, who the IBJ recently deemed the Queen of Food Media, is also our secret weapon. We are proud of who she is within the community and how she is connected with those who live and breathe Indiana. We are very happy to have her as a member of the new Edible Indy team. We are humbled by the warmth the readers, advertisers, and followers have given to us through emails, phone calls and social media. Learning more about central Indiana and sharing this with you, the reader, is more than just us. We encourage everyone to reach out to us with calls, emails, texts or however you deem necessary to share your own hoosier thoughts, ideas or events. Everyone has a story and we are here to help share it!

Hoosier Hugs, Jennifer & Jeff

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publisher Rubenstein Hills LLC editor in chief Jennifer Rubenstein cfo Jeff Rubenstein managing editor Heather Tallman copy editor Doug Adrianson designer Cheryl Angelina Koehler web designer Mary Ogle advertising 317.489.9194 jennifer@edibleindy.com Please call or email to inquire about being a member of our advertising partnership and show your support for the local food culture in central Indiana.

contact us Contact Us Edible Indy PO Box 155 Zionsville, Indiana 46278 317.489.9194 info@edibleindy.com Edible Indy is published quarterly (March, May, September and November). Distributed throughout central Indiana and by subscription elsewhere.

Subscribe Now! Give a gift of Edible to someone or for yourself...right to your door! $32 for a year (4 issues) or $52 for a two year subscription (8 issues). Subscribe online at edibleindy.com Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however an error comes to your attention, then you probably have not had enough wine with your healthy food. Please accept our sincere apologies and, if it’s important, please notify us. Thank you. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2013 all rights reserved.


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From the Editor’s Table

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all and winter are all about enjoying the fruits of the harvest by cutting down the sheath to lay bare the field. It feels like something is coming to an end yet at the same time we look ahead to the rebirth that spring brings. The ending of some things and the beginnings of others. Gathering over the table to share a meal and a few moments from our day is a highlight for my family and I. Raising my two sons in central Indiana, where I have lived my whole life, is important to me. Taking time out of our busy lives to come together over a meal sets a precedent that I hope continues with them through adulthood. In our relaunch of Edible Indy I thought it would be perfect to start off on the right foot. Share what will remain a resounding theme in the pages of this publication: food, family and the love of the land. This will be shared with our 12 counties of distribution of over 60,000 readers. Your voice will come to life on the pages of Edible Indy because your input, questions and suggestions are always welcome and in fact, I welcome it. Local growers, artisans and producers will take center stage, not only to share their hard work but to teach us how to do more for ourselves. Thank you for picking up our first issue. I hope you feel as inspired as I do after you turn the last page. From pie to cocktails, small bites to bubbly, we have a little something for everyone. Happy holidays, Heather Tallman, Managing Editor

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Watercolor by: Bruce Dean

We are proud to now be distributing to 12 central Indiana counties. Over 60,000 readers of our Edible Indy per quarter online and in print. Grab your copy today. For more information on where to pick up your copy visit edibleindy.com.


A Gift In Good Taste

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his holiday season, give the gift that’s always in good taste. Just Rennie’s Cookie Company’s elegant gift boxes hold two, six, 12, 18 or 24 of our incredibly good cookies, baked fresh to order, individually sealed and packed with care to arrive in perfect condition. Choose from eight flavors. Plus, you can order online, anytime! We ship to overseas military bases at domestic rates, and to all 50 states. JustRennies.com t Like us on Facebook and get our new smartphone app

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Have You Heard? Newfangled Confections, the parent company of Frittle Candy, has a new brick and mortar location in the heart of Indianapolis’ Mass Ave on North Street. For more information, visit: NewfangledConfections.com

Add shrimp or prawns to the new @ChefWhit Smoking Hot Grits for an easy breakfast at night meal using the slow cooker from U-Relish Farm at Indianapolis City Market. Visit u-relish.com for more information.

Crust Pizzeria Napoletana, located in Carmel inside Providence at Old Meridian, opened September 23 and offers a wonderful rustic atmosphere influenced by Neapolitan tradition. Crust prides itself on using local, organic meats and cheeses, the finest flour and the freshest produce. Try one of fourteen specialty pizzas from Crust’s 700-degree stone hearth oven, create your own pizza or savor other Italian-inspired menu choices. Crust also offers a variety of local beers and specialty wines. Reservations are accepted and group seating is available. Visit crustindy.com.

Natural Born Juicers is launching a full service juice truck to replace their City Market location. The truck will be on the road late October and will also be participating in the Indy Winter Farmer’s Market. For more daily location information you can follow them on Twitter: @NatbornJuicers or facebook.com/naturalbornjuicers.

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Three Carrots is a 100% vegetarian, entirely plant-based restaurant set to open in either the Fountain Square or Irvington area in early spring of 2014. Their motto is “Vegetarian Cuisine from the Heart(land).” They will be serving contemporary vegetarian interpretations of Midwestern comfort food. Currently, they are still in the process of fundraising and have had monthly dinners and brunches raising money and awareness. You can find out about the fundraising meals and the restaurant at facebook.com/threecarrots.

Opening just in time for your holiday shopping, awardwinning Chocolate for the Spirit announces a new store location coming to 301 E. Carmel Drive, Carmel. Look for opening details on the company website chocolateforthespirit.com or facebook.com/chocolatespirit.


Best Boy & Co. launches the Redhead hot sauce for folks who don’t think they like hot sauce. It’s a very soft and round sauce, full of great flavors and a little sweetness. It has just enough heat to make it a perfect accompaniment to many dishes. Like most redheads she’s a little sweet and spicy. Redhead is joined by their other new fall release: Ginger Infused Caramel. Go to BestBoyandCo.com for retail locations.

Looking to gift some holiday wines? Check out Harmony Winery’s Mom’s Apple Pie and Ruby Divine both perfect flavors for the season and available now in at the Fishers winery. Country Heritage Winery and Vineyard has a sweet red wine cleverly named Jolly Juice 2013 for $10.95 a bottle available for purchase at the LaOtto, Indiana location. Lastly, Mallow Run released Reindeer Red and Winter White. Both are great choices for the holiday feasts.

The Indianapolis Zoo has hired executive chef, Joe Hsu. He has revamped the menu at the zoo to create fresh flavors, local ingredients and healthy options for guests. Guests can look for signs at the zoo highlighting “Riley’s Recommendations for Healthier Eating” to know they are making smart food choices. Check out the build-your-own-salad feature plus dishes like hummus, yogurt parfaits, couscous salad and more.

Sunny Chinese Kitchen located in Fishers launched in June: Rolling Asian Delights, their first mobile food truck. In addition to their restaurant, they offer group and young chef cooking classes. For more information visit sunnychinesekitchen.com.

Indiana native, Shawn Vail and his wife Deana Vail, have produced several recycled gifts including glasses and jewelry out of ceramic beer bottles for Big Woods Brewing in Nashville, Indiana. Groovy Green Glass, located in Myrtle Beach South Carolina, sells recycled glass wear made out of beer, wine and liquor bottles online and several places in Indianapolis. For more information visit groovygreenglass.com.

Hoosier Momma Cocktail Mixers has introduced their Half and Half Blood Mary Mix. For those who don’t want it too spicy, but just enough, this is perfect for you.

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Raw chef, Audrey Barron, is set to open Ezra’s Enlightened Cafe in January 2014. It will be a dairy-free, processed sugarfree, GMO-free and gluten-free cafe. They strive to be as close to 100% organic as possible and will be a green café as well. A large amount of their veggies and fruits will be supplied by local farmers. For more information visit ezrasenlightenedcafe.com.

After 30 years, Ambrosia Italian has a new location in Broad Ripple. Visit them at 5903 College Ave, Indianapolis. View their new menu at ambrosiaitalian.com.

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Illustration by Bambi Edlund, bambiedlund.com

what’s in season winter harvest: BEETS ONIONS*

BRUSSELS SPROUTS PARSNIPS

CABBAGE**

POTATOES*

CARROTS*

MUSHROOMS (SOME VARIETIES)

TURNIPS & TURNIP GREENS**

WINTER SQUASH*

*Year around storage ** Storage through February

November/December November catches the tail end of apple, cabbage, carrot, cauliflower and brussels sprout season with the last of the freshly picked varieties coming to harvest. Garlic and onions are still prolific and the focus shifts to harvesting greens. Varieties ranging from kale to collards can still be found as late as the end of November, depending on the weather. Winter squash is king right now with acorn, spaghetti, and butternut ready for harvest and cool weather roasting. Make plans now to order local smoked ham, farm raised turkey, and Indiana duck for your holiday table or foraging your own winter bounty such as venison, rabbit, quail, pheasant and other waterfowl.

January/February Hydroponic greens, locally raised meats such as bison, beef, pork, rabbit and foods like eggs and cheeses take center stage at winter farmers markets in these colder months. Look for fresh breads, baked goods, goats milk soaps and other soothing items to tide you over until the first crocus’ start to peek through the snow.

winter farmers’ markets Bloomington Winter Farmers’ Market Harmony School Gymnasium 909 E. 2nd St. Bloomington localgrowers.org December–March Saturdays 9am–noon

Distelrath Farms Saturday Farm Stand 602 E. Raymond St. Indianapolis Year round Saturdays 8:30am–noon distelrathfarms.com

Harvest Market at the Fairgrounds Inside show arena at Hancock County Fairgrounds 620 N. Apple St. Greenfield November–April 1st & 3rd Saturdays 10am–1pm

Binford Farmers Market 62nd and Binford Blvd. Indianapolis binfordfarmersmarket.com Until December 14, 2013 Saturdays, 9am-1pm

Floyds Knob Farmers Market Lawrence Banet Rd. and Hwy. 150 Floyds Knob Year round Saturdays 8am–1pm

Indy Winter Farmers Market 202 E. Market St. Indianapolis indywinterfarmersmarket.org November–April Saturdays 9am–12:30pm

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Winter Market at C armel City Center 719 Hanover Pl. Carmel November 19–March 30 Saturdays 9am–noon carmelcitycenter.com


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Edible Treats

HAVE A HOOSIER HOLIDAY Gifts From the Hands of Area Artisans WRITTEN BY SHAWNDRA MILLER AND HEATHER TALLMAN

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ho doesn’t love getting a sweet treat as a gift at holiday time? Edible presents are even more special if they’re made right here in Indiana, so here’s a primer on a few locally made goodies that will please every sweet tooth. Newfangled Confections, formerly known as Frittle Candy, just unveiled butter mints—a handcrafted take on the pastel mints served at weddings and showers. Meanwhile, their nostalgia candy is a sure bet for any occasion, from the signature Frittle to hand-cut chocolate mint “pillows.” Another new addition to the popular line of Frittle are the pralines. Having had more than my fair share of these this year, I can attest that they are transcendent, and I don’t often use words like that. For the chocolate lover on your list, local chocolatiers abound: Consider decadent fudge and turtles from Brooke’s Candy or Chocolate for the Spirit’s new Divine Swine Chocolate Bars, to name a few. And just in time for the holidays, Greenfield’s J. Evelyn Confections debuts a truffle snowman in vanilla bean, eggnog and butter mint flavors. You cannot go wrong with any of the offerings at Best Chocolate in Town. I recently had their Gorgonzola Buffalo White Chocolate truffle and that combination just works. Brooke’s Candy not only has gluten-free offerings but also boasts a fantastic brownie mix definitely worth the try and a great gift for those who are gluten sensitive. Chocolate for the Spirit is preparing to open a storefront in Carmel in addition to the Indianapolis City Market location, where they will sell an expanded selection of their fine chocolates, original creations and gelato. Fort Wayne icon DeBrand Fine Chocolate has a decadent collection of truffles, bars, classic favorites, dessert toppings and holiday favorites like the truffle wreath box and their chocolate-dipped spoons that are perfect for hot chocolate. Like all of the names mentioned here, DeBrand is also known for their attractive packaging, careful shipping and wide selection for gifting.

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Other notables: Litterally Divine’s Coffee Toffee is flavored with Indianapolis-roasted coffee beans. Roanoke’s Best Boy & Co.’s dessert sauces will inspire the chef on your list. Choices like bourbon-barrelstout-infused caramel, chili hot fudge, balsamic-infused, original dark and mocha are joined by their newest creation: ginger-infused caramel. As if that is not enough the company donates 100% of its profits to charities, many of which are in Indiana. Meanwhile, holiday-themed marshmallows are in the hopper at 240Sweet in Columbus. I am not sure if you have ever visited their website or their new, larger location on Highway 31 South, but there are few flavor combinations they have not created. From the favorite Hoosier Strawberry to Draft Beer, Salty Caramel Swirl to Elephant Ear, there is something for every sweet tooth. Alongside their popular puffs, they have a line of drinking chocolate, demerara sugar varieties like cinnamon and smoked, and a newly expanded line of salts in flavors such as sriracha and vanilla. For more hard candies of the vintage variety, venture beyond Central Indiana. Try hand-pulled candy canes from Schimpff’s Confectionery in Jeffersonville or from Martinsville Candy Kitchen, and


TRADERSPOINT CREAMERY fresh. simple. organic.

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The Roost private event space overlooking our pastures

Farm Store you’ll never buy factory-made candy canes again. Schimpff’s has a line of cinnamon red hots and other hard candies in addition to their chocolate offerings and has an impressive gift shop and demonstration area as well. There are many who make their pilgrimage to the Martinsville Candy Kitchen an annual tradition. You can watch them hand-pull their canes in a variety of flavors. Not only are they delicious, they are visually appealing as well. Their quaint candy shop is a slice of Americana and worth the drive. Order early, though: Many popular varieties go fast! Good’s Candy in Anderson offers a line of brittle and fudge and popular gourmet popcorn combinations like peanut butter milk chocolate and three o’clock crunch. Albanese Confectionery in Merrillville creates Christmas-themed gummi bears that they add to their 12 other flavors that join a cast of spiced nuts and even gummy vitamins. Bloomington’s Blu Boy Chocolates specializes in rich dark chocolate confections. Beautifully adorned, Blu Boy chocolates are a thoughtful gift for anyone—unique, artistic and eyecatching. Stop by anytime and catch them rolling truffles or serving one of their many fine dessert choices. They, like Best Chocolate in Town and Chocolate for the Spirit, offer a bevy of ice cream and gelato choices as well. Joan’s Caramels, located in Bloomington, has burst onto the candy scene with a full line of chocolates and over nine varieties of original caramel flavors like Beer Pretzel and the local favorite: Salted. You can even have Just Rennie’s Cookie Co.’s moist, preservative-free cookies shipped from

MILK - YOGURT - CHEESE HOLIDAY GIFT BOXES

100% GRASSFED ORGANIC

TPFORGANICS.COM | 317-733-1700 9101 MOORE RD, ZIONSVILLE, IN

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Evansville. Their gift-ready boxes of individually wrapped cookies are frequently ordered for corporate gifts and for college students far from home. They are also an Indiana-made treat that can be shipped overseas to those serving in our armed forces. They have a refined technique of scooping out the perfect portion of dough, which bakes to a soft finish. Order a single-variety box or, for those who can’t decide, order a mixed assortment. This is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the handmade treasures Indiana food artisans offer. Online resources like IndianaArtisan.org are a great place to search for what may be made in your own backyard. Find your favorite local sweets at the Indianapolis Winter Farmers’ Market, Goose the Market, Good Earth, Sweet Shoppe in Carmel, Indiana State Museum, Homespun Modern Handmade, Indiana Historical Society, The City Market, Bartholomew County Visitors Center and many more Indiana locations. Please visit websites listings for more information and to order your favorite treats.

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Shawndra Miller is an Indianapolis freelance writer with deep ties to the urban homesteading movement.

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KEYS TO THE CANDY 1. Best Boy and Co. For the complete line of hot fudge and infused caramel bestboyandco.com 2. 240Sweet Artisan Marshmallows hand crafted, specialty marshmallows in over 150 varieties 240Sweet.com

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3. Just Rennie’s Cookie Co. 8 Varieties of Fresh, handmade cookies gift boxed to ship around the world justrennies.com 4. Litterally Divine Organic and Vegan Toffee and chocolates litterallydivinetoffee.com 5. DeBrand Fine Chocolates Artisan chocolates, truffles and confections debrand.com 6. The Original Frittle Candy from Newfangled Confections 3 varieties original, sesame and coconut. frittlecandy.com 7. Brooke’s Candy Co. Gluten and rice-free toffee, fudge and baking mixes brookescandyco.com 8. Evelyn Confections Handmade Artisan Truffles and Chocolates jevelynconfections.com 9. BluBoy Handmade fine chocolates, truffles and desserts bluboychocolate.com

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Have a seat at the Chef’s table t (SJMMJOH $MBTTFT t 1SJWBUF &WFOUT t (SJMMJOH 4VQQMJFT

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Liquid Assets

SPREADING HOLIDAY CHEER Purveyors of Fine Elixirs, Wilks & Wilson BY ZACHARI WILKS

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achari Wilks has been a familiar face behind bars for a little over 15 years. He has pioneered the craft cocktail scene in Indianapolis and acted as catalyst to the growing mixology culture now found within the city. Zach’s appreciation for the art of a well-balanced cocktail and his ability to put a creative spin on old classics has earned him much recognition countrywide. As founder and former owner of the Ball and Biscuit, Zach was named top 12 bars in the nation in 2012 by Esquire magazine. You can find his Wilks and Wilson line of organic syrups on most bars throughout the city.

RUBY SUE COCKTAIL There are so many reasons to celebrate during the Holiday season and when I think about celebratory cocktails my mind always seems to turn towards bubbles. This is a wonderfully balanced cocktail that is simple to make and will be a highlight of your holiday gatherings.

Shopping List St. Germain is our sweet element and is a liqueur that is made from fresh wild elderflowers that are picked in the wild. It has a honeysuckle like flavor with hints of peach, orange, grapefruit and pear. For my sparkling wine I chose Il Follo Extra Dry Prosecco. Feel free to use any sparkling you can get your hands on, just be sure to choose something dry. I like prosecco and cava for cocktails because there are some really high quality options without breaking the bank. Aromatic bitters help to balance all of the flavors and bring the cocktail together. For this cocktail I’m using Wilks & Wilson Orange Bitters.

Mixology It really doesn’t get much easier for this one! Pour 1 ounce of St. Germain in a champagne flute add a couple of dashes of orange bitters and top with sparkling wine. Give it a stir or two with a spoon and garnish with the peel of an Orange. This cocktail is guaranteed to be a hit with all of your friends and family this holiday season.

Cheers! 14 14

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Recipe

PEA POT PIE A warm meal for a cold day RECIPE COURTSEY OF CARA DAFFRON, U-RELISH PHOTOGRAPHY BY KELLY JORDAN

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ara Dafforn, founder of U-Relish Farms in Indianapolis, has created a delicious line of local preservative-free products that are easy to adapt for gluten-free diets. Seeing a need for quick meals using healthy, whole ingredients, she focused on dishes that could be prepared using a crock-pot. More and more busy people are turning to slow-cooker recipes, especially during the winter months,

Pea Pot Pie ¼ cup potato, diced ¼ cup onion, diced ¼ cup carrot, chopped ¼ cup frozen or fresh peas 1½ cup dried white navy or northern beans (not canned) 2 teaspoons fresh chopped celery leaf from the top of fresh celery stalks 1 teaspoon fresh tarragon, chopped 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped 1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup cornstarch (for gluten-free diets) or flour 4½ cups water (or chicken broth) 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, sliced

Stir everything except the cornstarch (or flour), water (or broth) and butter into a 1.5-quart (or larger) slow cooker. Place cornstarch (or flour) in a bowl and slowly whisk in the water (or broth), stirring to prevent lumps. Pour over the vegetable mix. Add the butter, then cover slow cooker and cook for 6 hours on high.

because nothing feels more comforting than coming home to a complete meal after being gone all day. Cara graciously shared one of her most popular recipes with us. Her Pea Pot Pie uses hardy and readily available vegetables and herbs, like tarragon and thyme, and offers that fresh, home-cooked taste we all long for. Serve this crust-less pot pie on its own or with biscuits. If you really want a traditional feel, you can bake the finished product in a pie tin with a simple pot-pie-style pastry top. To incorporate more protein into the dish and 2 cups of diced cooked chicken or turkey to the pot before cooking. We recommend adding cooked meat verses raw meat to avoid salmonella. U-Relish products are available at the Indianapolis City Market, Pogues Run Grocer and Good Earth. For more information about U-Relish visit u-relish.com.

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From the Good Earth

It Doesn’t Get More ‘Local’ Than THE Foraging It Yourself BOUNTY OF THE A HUNT BY HEATHER TALLMAN

PHOTOGRAPHY JENNIFER RUBENSTEIN

s more and more people take control of where their food comes from, how it is raised and what they feed themselves and their families, a dialog has opened up amongst consumers about going back to the root of the culinary evolution. Indiana’s forests and waterways are an abundant source of food for many who choose to gather their own. From fish to waterfowl to game, the bounty of the hunt is shared in both the home and restaurant settings. Former sous-chef, forager and Indiana native Matt DuCharme shared with me a bit of insight as to why he seeks out locally sourced game and even hunts for his own. “A big reason is simply proving to myself that I can provide. Sometimes it simply comes down to being thankful for a good hunt and harvest. The same reasons apply as to why I may choose to garden or fish. There are a multitude of reasons why someone may hunt or fish and that is a personal choice.“ “I do not know of specific health benefits,” he continued, “but by eating wild game that I caught myself, I am eliminating my reliance on the outside world for a small portion of my food. I am eliminating the possibility of contaminants that may occur in processing. It just TASTES better to me. “I have eaten many things that I simply do not like, be it texture or taste. Wild game in general tastes good to me. Deer, elk, rabbit, pheasant, duck, quail—all have a unique flavor profile. We [as a society] have an incredible wealth of food items out there that are different and wonderful, however, too many of us get sucked into the ‘fast and easy’ game of eating or feeding our families.” Not all of us have the luxury, skill or time to forage for our own meat, and other treasures the land provides. Luckily, we live in an area that boasts unique markets, artisanal butcher shops and restaurants inventive enough to have it on their menu. Kincaid’s Meat Market in Indianapolis has bison, quail, squab and duck in their case right now and lamb, goat, elk and buffalo can be found at the Meat Shop of Indianapolis, on High School Road. Nationally popular Maple Leaf Farms Pekin duck can be found both online and on many menus in Indiana, Illinois and Michigan. Recently they have started offering ground duck and duck bacon. Popular Indianapolis-based Goose the Market carries a varied selection as do the three Moody’s Butcher Shop locations in Central Indiana and Sahara Mart in Bloomington. Alternately, there is a seasonal selection of quail, veal, lamb and goat available at Binford Farmers’ Market. Claus’ German Sausage and Meats (formerly Klemm’s) on the south side of Indianapolis will process your game for you with required documentation. Locally farm-raised rabbit from Meat the Rabbit can be found on many Central Indiana menus such as Finch’s Brasserie in Bloomington, Late Harvest Kitchen, R Bistro, Libertine, 10:01, Bluebeard—all in Indianapolis—plus Indigo Duck in Franklin and the Local Eatery and Pub in Westfield. Educational opportunities are beginning to crop up and become more mainstreamed in Central Indiana. Hoosier Outdoor Heritage, a division of

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Bacon-Wrapped Tenderloin Medallions Recipe courtesy of Matt DuCharme Main Ingredients:

the Indiana Department of Natural Resources, recently unveiled a new educational series called Hunt, Fish, Eat. This program was started in the fall of 2012 in Bloomington and has had three additional series: two in Fort Wayne and one in Indianapolis. The program is designed to reach out to individuals who want to eat locally or source their own food and would be interested in learning to hunt or fish to accomplish this task. The program is designed for adults and consists of a series of educational classes over the course of a few weeks. For example, the DNR recently finished the Hunt, Fish, Eat: Whitetail Deer series in Indianapolis. This course met once a week for four weeks for about three hours an evening. The course covered the basics of deer hunting but also introduced participants to venison dishes. As seasons change in Indiana, so do both the menus at local restaurants and the offerings of local butcher shops and meat markets. Seek out a new dish in your area and be inspired to make it yourself at home. Matt DuCharme shared this recipe, which makes use of venison tenderloin and is a great introduction to cooking with this meat for the first time or even for holiday entertaining.

1 venison tenderloin (backstrap) 1 pound bacon (any style) Marinade Option 1: Homemade Italian ¼ cup red wine vinegar ¾ cup virgin olive oil (not extra-virgin) 1 teaspoon mustard 1 clove garlic, mashed and minced 1 tablespoon oregano, fresh minced or dried 1 pinch of salt, to taste Marinade Option 2: South of the Border 1 shot tequila ¼ cup fresh lime juice ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil (extra-virgin, as this marinade needs to be a little lighter) 1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon ground cumin ½ cup fresh cilantro, chopped 2 jalapeños, minced 1 green onion, chopped Mix marinade ingredients in a jar with tightfitting lid, and shake to emulsify. This can also be completed in a bowl with a wire whisk. Slice tenderloin into ¼-inch-thick medallions and soak overnight in marinade of choice in a sealed bag. Roll each medallion in a single slice of bacon and secure in place with toothpick. Cook prepared medallions in a preheated oven (350° for 20 minutes or until center is 155°–160°) or on a grill for 15–20 minutes. While cooking, baste the medallions with remaining marinade. These appetizers go great with many items, and make a wonderful game-day snack. I like to pair the South of the Border medallions with jalapeños stuffed with cream cheese and wrapped with bacon.

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Cooking with... ...Twinkle VanWinkle

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A SLICE OF HOOSIER GOODNESS Lemon Chess Pie

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TWINKLE VANWINKLE RECIPE COURTESY OF PAULA HANEY FROM THE HOOSIER MAMA BOOK OF PIE

Pie is like a kiss on the cheek after a good meal. A slice shared between friends with a hot cup of coffee. A sliver snuck in the silence of midnight. The symbol of love shown by those who prepared our meal, and afterwards declared “Keep your fork, there’s pie!” —Heather Tallman

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his chess pie recipe speaks to my Southern heart. A staple at all our family gatherings throughout my life, Hoosier Mama’s recipe is a sweet reminder of my grandmother’s holiday table and the love that she cooked into every dessert. The combination of the fresh berries and the custard filling are a match made in heaven. —Twinkle VanWinkle

All-Butter Pie Dough Makes 2 single-crust piecrusts 14 tablespoons (1¾ sticks) unsalted butter, divided 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar ½ cup cold water 2¼ cups all-purpose flour 2¼ teaspoons kosher salt ½ tablespoon granulated sugar Cut the butter into ½ -inch cubes. Freeze 5 tablespoons for 20 minutes or overnight; chill the remaining 9 tablespoons (1⅛ sticks) in the refrigerator until ready to use. Stir the red wine vinegar into the cold water and set aside. Combine the flour, salt and sugar in the bowl of a food processor and pulse 5 or 6 times to combine. Add the chilled butter and mix for 25 to 30 seconds, until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the frozen butter and pulse 15 to 20 times, until the butter is in pea-sized pieces. Add 6 tablespoons of the vinegar water and pulse 6 times. The dough should start to look crumbly. Test the dough by squeezing a small amount in the palm of your hand. If it easily holds together, it is done. If not, add ½ tablespoon of the vinegar water and pulse 3 more times. Repeat this process as needed until the dough holds together. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead together until smooth; dough should never come together in the food processor. Divide the dough into 2 equal parts and roll each into a ball. Flatten the balls slightly and wrap separately in plastic wrap. Let the dough rest in the refrigerator until ready to use, at least 20 minutes but preferably overnight.


Napkin Fold for Pie Dough Grab the edge of the pie dough between the thumb and index finger of your right hand. Be careful not to pull the dough up out of the pie tin as you work. Gently fold a ½- to 1-inch section of dough over so it points towards the center of the pie shell. Place your left thumb on top of the first fold. Grab a second ½- to 1-inch piece of pie dough between your thumb and index finger, next to the first fold, and gently gold it over like the first piece. Repeat this process all the way around the pie. The more folds you make, the rounder your pie shell will be, but large folds look appealingly rustic. When you are finished with the folds, tap the pie tin against the counter several times. If the dough falls down into the tin, or unfolds and falls off the rim, unfold that section of dough and make adjustments. If the pie shell holds its shape, gently press the folds down onto the rim of the pie tin. Place the finished napkin-fold pie shell in the refrigerator to rest for at least 20 minutes before use. Well-rested shells hold their shape the best.

Lemon Chess Pie

50 minutes to 1 hour, rotating 180° every 20 minutes, until a dark golden brown crust forms on top and the filling is set. Once cool, top with Sticky Blueberries.

Sticky Blueberries Makes enough to top 1 pie 1½ cups granulated sugar 1½ cups water 2 cups blueberries Place the sugar and water in a small saucepan and stir until combined. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. While the sugar and water heat, sort the blueberries. Discard any bits of leaves, stems or shriveled berries. Place the blueberries in a colander set over a large bowl. Pour the hot syrup over the berries. Shake the colander to make sure all the berries are covered. The leftover syrup may be reheated and used once more. Let the berries cool until they are comfortable to touch, then pile them on top of the pie. The berries get stickier as the syrup cools, so if your berries roll off the pie, wait a few minutes and try again.

Makes 1 (9-inch) pie 1 single-crust, napkin-fold, All-Butter Pie Dough shell Pie wash (equal parts of whole milk and cream) 1½ cups plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 stick unsalted butter Pinch kosher salt 1 lemon, for zesting 2 tablespoons cornmeal 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 4 large eggs ¼ cup whole milk ¼ fresh lemon juice 1 recipe Sticky Blueberries (recipe follows)

Twinkle VanWinkle has more than 22 years of professional cooking under her apron strings, feeding thousands of friends, family and other folks. She baked apple pies for the “Oprah Winfrey Show” and has appeared on Food Network’s “The Best Of…” Along with her role as national lifestyle producer for LIN Media, she is a mother, urban gardener, chef and musician. Find out more on TwinkleVanWinkle.com.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place pie shell on a baking sheet and brush the rim with pie wash. Set aside. Combine the sugar, butter and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Zest the lemon over the ingredients in the bowl; set lemon aside to juice later. Cream together on medium until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the cornmeal and flour and continue to mix on medium until the ingredients are just combined. Add the eggs one at a time, scraping down the side and bottom of the bowl after each addition. With the mixer on low, slowly pour in the milk. Add the lemon juice and mix until just combined. Don’t be alarmed if the batter curdles when the lemon juice is added. Finished batter will be slightly lumpy. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and incorporate any unmixed butter. Pour the batter into the pie shell and bake for edibleIndy.com

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Around the Kitchen Sink

COOKING UP CONVERSATION WITH JEFF SATURDAY Southern roots and Sunday meals BY HEATHER TALLMAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMANDA BARNES PHOTOGRAPHY

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any phrases come to mind when you talk about former Indianapolis Colts offensive lineman Jeff Saturday: Integrity, honesty, the voice of reason and down to Earth are just a few. Having watched him play only on television, I had no idea of his background, the ties to the community he shares with his wife, Karen, or the vast culinary knowledge he wears like a badge of honor. One would not expect someone like Jeff Saturday to know his way around the kitchen, but his deep Southern roots and a lifetime of Sunday meals with family have left an impression on him. Jeff and Karen still live in Indianapolis, where they moved when he joined the Colts in 1999, which comes to no surprise to me. They are invested in this city they love. They have chosen to reside and raise their three children—Jeffrey, 13; Savannah, 11; and Joshua, 7—in central Indiana. Saturday retired as a Colt in 2013 and decided he needed to make some changes in both his diet and exercise routine. “When I retired in February, I made a conscious choice that I was going to change how I ate. There was now no need to log the amount of calories that I was [eating] as an offensive lineman. They either get fit or fat when they are done playing. The choice was easy for me.” Jeff Saturday played 13 seasons with Peyton Manning as an Indianapolis Colt and exemplary player. When deciding how he would chart a course to lower fat and calorie intake, joint health played a major role. Jeff did his research and found that a diet rich in vegetables and whole proteins would suit him best. Lean meat, colorful veggies and eliminating dairy and empty carbohydrates have been his secret to success.

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Finding that certain foods laden in sugar and carbohydrates made him feel bad and a cleaner diet made him feel good was the clearest sign that he was on the right track. Another element to his fitness routine is staying active. Through daily walks, strength training and weights, Jeff has watched the pounds drop off—all from tweaking his diet and staying active. Setting an example for his kids that the healthy and active lifestyle would carry on after he left the field was a sticking point that Jeff felt was important. This is a family affair for the Saturdays. As I can attest, it takes a lot to keep your kids’ attention as they get older. Jeff and Karen are getting creative. The Saturdays often walk as a family, ride bikes and keep each other motivated to do more. Each of his kids has an activity that they excel at, whether it be dance, running or even rope climbing. “Challenging our kids to stay active and healthy through a bit of family competition is great for everyone. Being competitive in the right way and being healthy can be fun.” Jeff admits to practicing so he can beat his kids at climbing ropes, pull-ups and the 50-yard dash. As a parent myself, I can see where this can be a fun and healthy way to engage your older kids in a bit of fun. I mean, what kid doesn’t want to beat their parent at a physical challenge? I asked Jeff about his Southern childhood and his upbringing in Atlanta. I imagined the slow-cooked pace of the South had left its mark on Jeff and his wife and I was right. Greens cooked with ham hock, black-eyed peas, okra and grits are many dishes he remembers fondly as a young person and has looked for since living up north.


When he was growing up, Sunday dinners were an event not to be missed. Lingering over the table, having conversations, slowing down to catch up on each other’s lives were a weekly occurrence at his house. “You knew to expect it,” he recalls. “These meals took hours.” This tradition has continued with his own family and they most often gather at breakfast time. The power of a family meal and the need to “find a time of peace” have kept Jeff and Karen connected with their family. Starting the day off by praying together, reading the Bible and sharing what they see as their “challenge of the day” sets the tone for the day and they stay invested in one another’s successes and failures, struggles and high points. I ask Jeff if he liked to cook, having already spied a very substantial grill and outdoor kitchen on my way into his house. As I suspected, he loves to man the grill. Fish, pork, all manner of meats really, are

prepared up to four times a week by Jeff himself. Being a hunter, Jeff says he has a healthy respect for life and the animals that sustain us. Duck, fish, venison, elk and other local game routinely can be found in the freezer, foraged by himself. Jeff has traveled to Africa more than once to hunt large game on the savannas and prairies of that continent. Controlled hunts for Cape buffalo, eland, gemsbok, kudu and hartebeest resulted in not only a nicely mounted head to ship back but also a sizeable amount of meat for the surrounding African villagers. Helping others and having a philanthropic heart are part of the lifestyle for the Saturday family. For several years Jeff and Karen have been a part of the People’s Burn Foundation, since their youngest son, Joshua, suffered a severe burn on his hands from a fireplace screen. From there they founded Camp Saturday, a camp for children suffering from a variety of burns—a place where they can feel accepted and enjoy themselves. “Dealing with a burn situation is hard. This is not a quick threeday hospital visit. Most likely there will be weeks and months of surgeries, therapies and missed time at work for the parents. We want to help in any way that we can.” Jeff and Karen are also active with the Susan G. Komen Foundation and have been emcees of the Survivors Parade several times. Being a part of the parade of survivors all in different stages of health, sharing something so significant, surrounded by their families, is a powerful moment, Saturday says. “We can’t cure cancer, you can’t fix somebody, but what we can do is raise money, awareness and help make this one day in their lives a little bit better.” Making a commitment to giving back is not a hard choice for Jeff. These are real life experiences that will help mold his children and the adults that they will grow to be. “I made my living off of community dollars. Hardworking people gave their money to watch me play, they showed up. It’s the least I can do—to give back.

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Seasonal Sips

SPARKLE AND POP

Holiday Bubbles from Indiana Vines BY JEANETTE MERRITT

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here are plenty of reasons to celebrate during this festive time of the year. But you don’t need a special occasion to open a bottle of Champagne or sparkling wine! It is the perfect complement to any meal or just something to enjoy for no reason at all. There are many sparkling wines produced around the world, but only a few can properly be called Champagne. That bubbly wine is produced with grapes grown in the Champagne growing region of France. Many U.S. wineries cannot call their sparklers Champagne. Only those wineries that had approval to use the term on labels before 2006 may continue to use it and then only when it is accompanied by the wine’s actual origin. Easley Winery is one winery that can use the term Champagne on their label. Their Indiana Champagne is made from a blend of Traminette and Cayuga grapes. You can buy a bottle at their Indianapolis-based winery for $15.60. Bloomington’s Oliver Winery produces a Vidal Blanc Sparkling Wine that will please everyone in your crowd. This bubbly is made from grapes grown in their Creekbend Vineyard and sells for $25 a bottle. You can find this wine at their winery on SR 37, north of Bloomington, or at their tasting room in downtown Bloomington. Huber Orchard, Winery & Vineyards features a sparkling blend of their Hard Cider and Red Raspberry Wine to make their Razzy Apple. At just $14.99 a bottle, it is worth the drive to Starlight to pick up a bottle! Mallow Run Winery in Bargersville features Indiana’s Signature Wine Grape in their sparkling wine. Labeled Signature, this sparkling wine is made from the Traminette grape and costs $15 per bottle. Whatever the season, there is always a reason to drink sparkling wine! Be sure to pick up an Indiana sparkler on your next visit to one of these wineries. IndianaWines.org Jeanette Merritt, marketing director of the Purdue Wine and Grape Team & Indiana Wines is a lover of Indiana wine, mother, farm wife and woman of faith. Find more online at FencerowToFencerow.com

WHERE TO TASTE AND BUY Easley Winery 205 N. College Ave., Indianapolis 317.636.4516 EasleyWinery.com

Oliver Winery Main Tasting Room: 8024 Indiana 37, Bloomington, 812.876.5800

Huber Orchard and Winery 19816 Huber Rd., Borden 812.923.9463 HuberWinery.com

Oliver Winery Downtown Bloomington Tasting Room: 105 N. College Ave. Bloomington 812.822.0466 OliverWinery.com

Mallow Run Winery 6964 W. Whiteland Rd. Bargersville 317.422.1556 MallowRun.com 22

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Smith Bites

HOLIDAY NIBBLES RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEBRA AND ROD SMITH

Co-founders of SmithBites.com, Rod Smith (aka ‘The Professor’) and Debra Smith are professional photographers, videographers, writers and storytellers whose first life involved creating jingles and voiceovers for radio, television and film. Their love of food as well as a great story has allowed The Smiths to photograph and create videos about food on both coasts of the US and in Europe – at Smith Bites, ‘it’s the food that connects us all’.

Gluten-free, Grain-free Sour Cream Pumpkin Cakelettes

Party Stuffed Dates

Makes 12 Cakelettes 1 cup tapioca starch ¾ cup almond flour ¼ cup coconut flour 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon ground flax seed* 12 tablespoons butter, melted, cooled and set aside 1 cup sugar 4 eggs 1¼ cups sour cream 1 teaspoon almond extract 2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice Powdered sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Melt butter over low heat, cool and set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together tapioca starch, almond flour, coconut flour, kosher salt, baking soda, baking powder and ground flax seed; set aside. In a large bowl, whisk together the melted butter, sugar, eggs, sour cream, almond extract and pumpkin pie spice until well blended. Add half of the dry mixture and whisk until nearly incorporated; add remaining dry mixture and whisk until well blended. Spray pans well with cooking spray and fill pans ¾ way full; drop pan on the counter a couple of times to release any air pockets. Place cakelette (mini-bundt) pan on baking sheet and bake for 25-30 minutes or until tester comes out clean. Cool in pans for 6 minutes, then place a cooling rack directly on top of the cakelettes and flip over, turning the cakelettes out of the pan. Cool completely and dust with powdered sugar right before serving. These cakelettes can be made one day ahead and will keep for about three days. *You can substitute ground chia seeds or psyllium husks as well; I have a mix of equal parts flax, chia and psyllium husks in a jar set aside for baking.

Serves 8-10 24 large dates, preferably Medjool 2 ounces parmesan cheese, preferably Reggiano 24 walnut halves With a paring knife, make a small lengthwise incision in each date and carefully remove the pits. Using a vegetable peeler, shave the cheese into ribbons. Tuck some cheese and a walnut half into the slit in each date. Arrange on a platter and serve.

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Last Bite

GRANDMA YODER’S CINNAMON ROLLS Delicious Memories to Savor and Pass Along

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rowing up, this time of year was something very special to me. I remember the falling leaves, the smell of wood burning and my entire family of aunts, uncles, cousins and grandparents heading to our farmhouse in Northern Michigan for opening day of hunting season. While as a child it seemed like the ride took forever, the one thing I was most excited about was getting out of the car at 1am, running sleepily into the kitchen and, as I hit the door, the aroma of the warm homemade cinnamon rolls my Grandma Yoder had on the table hitting my nose. It wasn’t merely the delicious taste of these warm morsels that made me so happy. As a child, it was being with the family and getting to stay up so late to eat these goodies. Now, as an adult, I can see that it really was the love coming from that kitchen—the love only a grandmother can give. Many years have gone by since she passed away, but my heart fills with joy when I knead the dough from this recipe and smell the rolls baking. The memories bring tears to my eyes as I teach my oldest daughter about making these all-day cinnamon rolls, making my own memories only I can share with her. The stories of my family and of the women who gave me a love of cooking. Grandma Yoder, I love you.

Grandma Yoder’s Cinnamon Rolls PHOTOGRAPHY, STORY AND RECIPE BY JENNIFER RUBENSTEIN

1 cup milk 6 tablespoons butter ½ cup white sugar 1½ teaspoon salt ½ cup warm water 4–5 teaspoons active dry yeast 4 eggs 6 cups flour ½ cup brown sugar 4 tablespoons cinnamon 3 tablespoons melted butter Mix together milk, 6 tablespoons butter, white sugar and salt in a saucepan and heat on low until a skin forms on the top. Cool until lukewarm. Meanwhile, blend the warm water and yeast. Mix together and set aside for 5 minutes to activate yeast. Beat 4 eggs at room temperature into the lukewarm milk mixture, then add yeast mixture. Work in 3 cups of flour until dough becomes smooth and then

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slowly add 3 more cups of flour. Knead until smooth. Note: You can beat and knead by hand or use a stand mixer. Grease bowl, add dough and let rise until it has doubled, about 3 hours. Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine together brown sugar and cinnamon. Flour surface and roll dough out in a 12- by 12-inch square of even thickness. Spread 3 tablespoons melted butter on top of dough and sprinkle the cinnamon and brown sugar mixture on the top of the melted butter. Gently roll the dough into a large roll. Cut roll with a warm, wet, sharp knife into 12–24 rolls, depending on the size of cinnamon rolls you want. Place them in greased baking dishes and let rise until doubled, about 2 hours. Bake for 12–15 minutes at 350° and frost with your favorite maple glaze, cream cheese frosting or eat them plain. But eat them HOT!


presents

Coming to PBS Television in Winter 2013 Check Your Local Listings or go to ediblefeast.com

www.ediblecommunities.com

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Edible Events

November 22–24

November 23

November 28

International Festival

Soups and Stock Cooking Class

Happy Thanksgiving

Indiana State Fairgrounds 3 days of food, entertainment and education

December 3 Holiday Appetizers Cooking Class Bloomington Cooking School 6-8pm $52 per person bloomingtoncookingschool.com

Nestle Inn 637 N. East St. Indianapolis 46202 3:30-5:30pm nestleindy.com

December 1, 8, 15

December 5

December 7

Breakfast with Santa

Holiday Extravaganza 2013

Winter Market

The Children’s Museum of Indianapolis $15 members / $25 nonmembers

Vine & Table Carmel $25 in advance / $30 at the door eatdrinkevolve.com

Eiteljorg Museum Shop the best regional art market eiteljorg.org

December 12

December 14

January 9-10

January 26

Yelp’s Totally Bazaar

12 Chefs of Christmas

Indiana Green Expo

The Art of Chocolate

Old City Hall 202 N. Alabama St. Indianapolis 6-10pm yelp.com/events/ indianapolis-in-us

Indianapolis City Market Benefit for the Indianapolis City Market and Second Helpings indycm.com

Indiana Convention Center indianagreenexpo.com

Indiana University Art Museum, Bloomington weekofchocolate.com

February 22-23

February 20-23

23rd Annual Maple Syrup Festival

Deer, Turkey & Waterfowl Expo

Leane and Michael’s Sugarbush Indianapolis State Fairgrounds 321 N. Garrison Hollow Rd indianadeerandturkeyexpo.com Salem lmssugarbush.com

For more events and details visit our Indy event calendar at edibleindy.com

Have an event to promote? Email us at info@edibleindy. com with details.

Photography by Rebecca James

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Drumstick Dash in Broad Ripple Village Proceeds benefit Wheeler Mission Ministries

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