Edible Indy Fall 2019 | No. 34

edible INDY

®

EAT. DRINK. READ. THINK. Local Food Stories from Indiana & Beyond

Preserve MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Issue 34 | Fall 2019

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Fall 2019

CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS 2 Hoosier Thoughts 4 Foodgrams 7 Home 10 Technology 13 Wellness 18 Eat 48 Last Bite

FE ATURES 24 Camp DeMulling Homesteading with retired Colts lineman Rick DeMulling and his family. words: Charity Singleton Craig | photography: Dave Takayoshi

30 From Butcher to Rancher How one Midwest family launched their now-four-generation-strong beef business. words: Shauna L. Nosler

38 Hemp Season With recent legalization of hemp at the federal and state levels, Indiana’s growers are committed to learning the crop. words: Nicole Rasul | photography: Sarah Brown

RECIPES 7 Beauty Treatments from the Kitchen 21 Tinker Street’s Red Cabbage Kimchi 22 Moroccan Preserved Lemons 23 Pickled Apples Explore exclusive online-only recipes at EdibleIndy.com

COVER photography: Lauren McDuffie. See story on page 18.

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HOOSIER THOUGHTS

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ith this issue we embrace our six-year anniversary of being storytellers, advocates and preservationists.

Preservation is a word that is used to describe the process of keeping something from the past or the present for the future. We preserve the past in order to help guide us towards a more sustainable future. Our hearts, our stomachs, our mission, our values—we take the steps to contribute stories about things that shape the way we live. In this issue we talk about preserving our youth, our food, our health and, hopefully, a way of life that will lend itself to better things for generations to come. We are thankful for our readership, our support and all of the people who work tirelessly to make our community something bigger and more impactful. We hope you will find something in this issue that will positively impact your life.

INDY

PUBLISHER: Rubenstein Hills LLC EDITOR IN CHIEF Jennifer L. Rubenstein CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Jeff Rubenstein MANAGING EDITOR Colleen Leonardi

Photograph of Jennifer and Jeff supporting Zoobilation and preservation of the Indianapolis Zoo.

COPY EDITOR Doug Adrianson

Hoosier Hugs,

DESIGNER Cheryl Angelina Koehler STAFF Caryn Scheving, Graphics Claire Trost, Regional Sales

Jennifer & Jeff Rubenstein

ADVERTISING Claire Trost ClaireEdibleMidwest@gmail.com 614.806.0056

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his summer I lost my dad. A man of great strength, health and integrity, he was a constant fountain of wisdom, knowledge and inspiration. My love of good food comes from my dad. And I regret not taking the time to get more of his recipes and stories down on paper. Preservation is precious.

Our fall issue turns inwards in this way to summon the preservationist in all of us. From Camp DeMulling’s commitment to establishing a homestead and family farm so their children can grow up understanding the cycle of life and gifts of the natural world (page 24) to our roundup of local fermentation favorites to preserve the season and find new flavors (page 18), we offer stories steeped in the alchemy of memory-making.

We also look to heroes in the local food community, like Sam Eibling of Goods for Cooks in Bloomington (page 13).

“Begin with identifying what is important to you,” she shares.

“Not your business or personal goals (increasing sales or getting married, for example), not seeking the end result per se, but rather have an understanding of what qualities you value.” And Fred Linz of Linz Heritage Angus, a local hero working to bridge the past with the future in his family’s business to ensure the tradition of ranching is preserved (page 30). “Cattle farming,” he says, “seems to be losing interest from the next generation.”

While the future calls, take time to let autumn work its way into your days. Hold your cup of tea longer, turn off the TV at dinnertime and talk, listen to your child when they have a story to tell and then write it down. Take it from me as one who has loved and lost: You won’t regret preserving what makes your life worth living.

Eat Well, Love Well, Live Well,

edible INDY

Please call or email to inquire about becoming a member of our advertising partnership and show your support for the local food culture in Central Indiana.

EDIBLE INDY TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Market District CONTACT US Edible Indy PO Box 155 Zionsville, Indiana 46077 317.489.9194 info@edibleindy.com Edible Indy is published quarterly (March, May, September and November). Distributed throughout Central Indiana and by subscription elsewhere. Subscriptions are $32 for one year and can be purchased online at EdibleIndy.com or by check to the address above.

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, then you probably have not had enough wine with your healthy food. Please accept our sincere apologies and, if it’s important, please notify us! Thank you.

No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2019 all rights reserved.

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Photograph © Rachel Joy Barehl, RachelJoyBarehl.com

FROM THE EDITOR

Fall 2019

Greenville, Indiana

J

capriolegoatcheese.com

Capriole

An evocative cookbook that takes you deep into the heart of the American south available wherever books are sold

sweet

How

it is!

clancysinc.com

VISIT SIT ANY OF OUR LOCATIONS!

COMING 2020 TO BOTTLEWORKS INDY

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FOODGRAM FEAST #edibleindy

Celebrate edible goodness through the lens of our community by tagging us on all of your culinary journeys.

You might find us reveling in your photos here or @edibleindy. Cheers to your next Foodgram adventure!

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@almond_bite

@duosindy

@debrandfinechoc

@foodshinobi

@elizabeth_hannah_studios

@lenstopixels

@hoteltangodistillery

@bentarrowacres

@tasteindianapolis

Fall 2019

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Indy’s one stop shop for local eats & fresh juices. broad ripple • mass ave

N O U R I S H YO U R S E L F Treat yourself and attend Indiana’s premier naturopathic health conference.

Nourish, Indiana’s second annual Women’s Health Conference hosted by the Indiana Association of Naturopathic Medicine, is at Platform-24 in Carmel on Saturday, November 2, 2019. It will be a premier experience for women who are interested in natural health and healthy living. The purpose of the conference is to nourish women, so they come away with new inspiration, information and a sense of wellness.

brunch daily dinner + cocktails cold-pressed juices cleanse packages catering private events

The conference will help spread awareness of Naturopathic Medicine in Indiana, financially supporting the licensure efforts within the state.

Currently there are 22 states regulating the profession of Naturopathic Doctors. Licensure will provide increased access to preventive and integrative healthcare and allow Naturopathic Doctors in Indiana to provide comprehensive holistic healthcare.

The conference brings together expert health-conscious businesses and service providers from across Indiana with leading Naturopathic Clinicians from around the state. The full-day event includes three educational naturopathic presentations and interactive demonstrations with local wellness providers. Tickets include a nourishing lunch, beverages and snacks, access to our wellness lounge and more.

Early bird tickets are on sale until September 15.

Visit INANPNourish.com for tickets and more information.

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Fall 2019

HOME

Foodie Meets Beauty Skin– And Hair–Care Regimens Good Enough To Eat

words: Claire Trost | photography: Mike Schrader | model: Kelli Basten @bighairandfoodiefare | stylist: Rebecca Graves @gravesco

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ith natural antioxidants, vitamins and hydrating elements, food can do wonders for the skin from the inside out.

Yet certain foods can also be great for our body’s largest organ from the outside in—offering safer, greener and more cost effective alternatives to standard commercial products.

“It’s scary,” says Jessica Healey, a Bloomington native and owner of Pronounce, a handcrafted line of skin-care products.

“Many of the ingredients commonly found in skin-care products are actually banned in other countries” because of their chemical content, animal testing or other concerns.

Pronounce, a business that now ships products across the globe, has humble roots that trace back to Healey’s kitchen. Because of concerns about her young son’s skin sensitivities, Healey began replacing the toxic ingredients with healthy, nourishing pantry staples like coconut oil, turbinado sugar, cocoa butter and apple cider vinegar.

“Making our own skin-care products allows us to control the things going on our skin,” Healey explains.

From exfoliation and even reversing wrinkles on skin to adding bounce and shine to hair, kitchen staples and even food scraps can make for a relaxing—and tasty—DIY spa day.

Check out Pronounce’s fall take on a sugar scrub using coffee grounds (exclusively on EdibleIndy.com) and other natural skin-care recipes from the Edible Indy test kitchen.

Head to EdibleIndy.com for our extended version of Foodie Meets Beauty with more recipes and inside tips.

Hair

Beer, thanks to barley, hops and sugars, contains nutrients that offer the benefit of shine and more volume and bounce to hair.

1 flat beer (We love “Love Handle Honey Bop” by Central State Brewing Company.)

Beer needs to be completely flat, so let it sit out overnight and then use beer in place of your everyday conditioner by pouring it from your roots to ends; let sit for 3 minutes, then rinse with cold water. Use only once a week or so to prevent drying. edibleINDY.com

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Face

Eyes

For this recipe, combine all ingredients until well blended. Wash your face and then spread the mask all over your face, avoiding the eye area. Let sit for 15–20 minutes before rinsing. Follow with an everyday moisturizer.

Keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 3 days.

The caffeine in green tea treats puff y, dark eyes by shrinking blood vessels with an added brightening.

Honey serves as a base to each face mask as it is a natural antibacterial, opening and unclogging pores while slowing down the aging process and creating a great glow.

In a small bowl, combine the aloe vera gel and green tea.

The mixture should be fluid. Soak a 2 cotton rounds in the mixture and apply the rounds under the eyes. Let sit for about 10–15 minutes. After removing the cotton rounds, gently massage the remainder of the mixture into the skin around your eyes, moving from the inner corner of the skin around the eyes outward. Finish with an everyday moisturizer or eye cream. Keep in an airtight container with cotton rounds up to 3 weeks.

TURMERIC FACE MASK Turmeric is known to even out skin tone and is high in antioxidants. Its bright yellow color may stain, but is easily removed with soap and water, leaving behind a (more desired) glow.

1 teaspoon turmeric 2 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons milk

¼ cup antioxidant-rich brewed and cooled green tea 1 tablespoon aloe vera gel Cotton rounds

Hands

As the weather turns, the vitamin C in the orange peel helps to fight skin dryness while brown sugar is naturally hydrating. The cinnamon adds a lip plumping effect as it helps to open pores. Muah!

1 teaspoon dried orange peel 2 tablespoon brown sugar ½ tablespoon pink Himalayan salt, coarse ground 2 teaspoon cinnamon 1½ tablespoons coconut oil

½ teaspoon nutmeg ½ teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon cocoa powder Combine with ½ cup brown sugar, ½ cup granulated sugar and ½ cup coconut oil. Rub onto hands or use in the shower, rinsing well. Store in a Mason jar for up to 1 year.

Combine all ingredients in a bowl, coffee grinder or mortar.

Lightly grind the ingredients or use the back of a spoon until you get coarse paste. Rub a bit gently onto lips with fingers for 1 minute and let sit for an additional minute. Wipe off with a damp cloth. (To prevent irritation, only use a couple times each week.)

Follow up with a lip balm or moisturizer. Store in a small container up to 3 weeks.

Take your home spa experience to the next level with a relaxing custom-blended candle by Penn & Beech. Edible Indy recommends our personalized blend of cinnamon spice, orange zest, green tea and hops. Find it online at PennAndBeech.com or bring some friends and create your own custom blend at their locations.

747 N. College Ave., Indianapolis

|

145 Elm St., Ste. 150, Carmel

Learn more about Pronounce Skincare and find more recipes at PronouceSkincare.com And visit the shop: Pronounce Skincare | 522 N. Morton St. | Bloomington Claire Trost is a writer and Edible Indy’s director of development.

She also owns and operates Bent Arrow Acres, a sustainable farm connecting families to farming, food and each other through great meals. Find Claire at @clairetrost and the farm at @bentarrowacres.

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Fall 2019

photography location: Penn & Beech

Lips

Naturally abrasive sugar helps to regenerate and polish skin. Combined with oils, skin is nourished and left moisture-rich. Perfect for the drying nature of cold temperatures.

Here is an autumnal twists on a basic sugar scrub.

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September 28, 2019 12-5 PM

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TECHNOLOGY

THE LANGUAGE OF LABELS What means what in the often-confusing world of food labeling

Editor’s Note: The food labels we encounter at the grocery store can prove complicated. We had writer Shauna L. Nosler investigate a variety of terms and explain what sets each one apart. Here is our guide to Food Labeling 101, based on definitions from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. —Edible Indy

BIOENGINEERED FOODS contain detectable genetic material modified through lab techniques and cannot be created through conventional breeding or found in nature.

The National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Law (July 2016) directs the USDA to establish a standard for disclosing foods that are or may be bioengineered. It requires food manufacturers, importers and certain retailers to ensure bioengineered foods are appropriately disclosed. Mandatory compliance is January 1, 2022.

“This law was passed to create an equal standard for GMOs across the country instead of having each state have their own patchwork regulations. g Itt would u d be incrediblyy d u for difficult or food d companies i to market a et their t e r products d if every ry state had d their t e r own n standard d d and d would u d increase c ease costs tthat at w would u d ultimately l ly be passed d d down to the t e consumer.” u ” —Katie K Nelson,, p program manager, m n r, policyy and regulatoryy affairs, for f r the th Indianaa SStatee D Department off Agriculture

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“The National Bioengineered Food Disclosure Standard also avoids a patchwork state-by-state system that could be confusing to consumers.”

—U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Sonny Perdue GENETIC ENGINEERED ORGANISMS (GEO) are produced by introducing, eliminating or rearranging specific genes. GE foods are modified by human manipulation where genes from an unrelated species are introduced in order to create a desirable trait. In other words, if the food is created through genetic engineering, it has been modified in ways that do not occur naturally. In 1996, 4.2 million acres of farmland worldwide weree covered with GE crop cultivation. By 2016, moree thann 457 million acres had GE crops, of which more than half h f were in developing veloping countries. Of the major crops (corn, canola, cotton, soybean), 53% had been introduced a trait for herbicide h tolerance ance (HT); 14% for insect resistance (IR); and 33% 3 for both HT T and IR.

G GENETICALLY C Y MODIFIED ORGANISMS (GMO) aare produced through hrough genetic modification. In a GMO, DNA iis altered to create reate a specific desirable trait (like drought ttolerance or herbicide resistance). The modification can hhappen byy traditional d tional methods, such as crossbreeding of plants w within the samee species, or by human manipulation. Some ccountries other than the U.S. use this term to refer specifically tto genetic i engineering. ineering.