Edible Indy Summer 2020 | No. 37

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kentucky + indy + ohio valley

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Summer 2020

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US $7.99 DISPLAY UNTIL AUG 31

A Regional Collaboration

Mem ber o f E di b l e Co mmu n i t i es

SP S P y a ! r o o H SPRING INTO INDIANA WINE

No Sugar No Sweeteners No Guilt

It’s what’s missing that matters

www.drinkphocus.com

contents summer 2020 • together edible kentucky + edible indy + edible ohio valley

From the Editors

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edible indy

Help for Those on the Fringe

by Shauna L. Nosler

Together They Stand

by Hannah Dailey

8 13

edible kentucky

Rising to the Challenge

by Joe Phillips

The Power of Local

by Catherine McBride

23 28

edible ohio valley

Don’t Fence Us In Bryn Mooth

Recovering Keith Pandolfi / Tine Hofmann

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eat. drink. cater.

54

edible ending

56

on the cover

Photo by Michael Piazza

Regional Guide

Adding $10 Together

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edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

39

community recipes

Time to Get Creative

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33

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39 REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

3

Why Bank Local

Five Reasons to Choose a Community Bank

1

Get the same services with better care at a lower cost

National data shows local financial institutions offer the same variety of services at a lower cost and, on average, better interest rates and better loan terms. Local banks are also more likely to have better customer support because, in no small part, most local bank employees — like many customers — are long-time neighborhood residents.

2

Put your money to work growing the local economy Local banks channel most of their loans to the neighborhoods where the depositors live and work. This helps keep local communities growing and vibrant. Conversely, megabanks take deposits in one state and lend in others, placing a priority on serving large corporations. Using a local financial institution supports the creation and growth of local job-creating businesses that depend heavily on local banks for financing.

3

Keep decisionmaking local

Local banks and credit unions make loan approvals based on face-to-face relationships and an understanding of local needs.

Because of this personal knowledge, local financial institutions are often able to approve small business and other loans that big banks would reject.

4

Local institutions share a commitment to our community

Local bank officers and other employees are typically deeply involved in local community affairs — sponsoring activities, leading service projects, serving on boards and making donations. Big banks, in contrast, are tethered to the places where they are headquartered.

5

Support productive investments, not gaming and gambling The primary activity of most small banks and credit unions is to turn deposits into loans and other productive investments within the community. Meanwhile, big banks devote a sizeable share of their resources to speculative trading and other Wall Street bets that may generate big profits for the bank, but provide little economic or social value for the rest of us. If they go bad, these bets can also put the entire financial system at risk.

YOU COULD CALL IT FARM-TO-TABLE BANKING Just like fresh produce from a local farmer tastes better, banking with Republic Bank is just easier. Why? Because Louisville is our hometown, too – and we’re dedicated to making it better by helping local families and businesses achieve their dreams.

Discover how we make banking easy. Call 502-540-5363.

from the editors

edible indy

Publisher Rubenstein Hills, LLC Editor in Chief Jennifer L. Rubenstein Copy Editor Doug Adrianson Contributors Hannah Dailey, Shauna L. Nosler, Michael Schrader, Michael Piazza Advertising info@edibleindy.com Contact/Subscribe P.O. Box 155 Zionsville, IN 46077 260.438.9148 EdibleIndy.com info@edibleindy.com

A sneak peek into our new digital Edible Communities Cookbook, more on page 47.

W

e were nearly an hour into our third joint editorial meeting in May when the thought occurred: We’d been working to put this regional issue together in much the same way that our restaurant, artisan and farmer friends have been working over the past four-plus months.

Making decisions without essential information. Rethinking old ways of doing business.

Trying to navigate this new normal. Collaborating, innovating, winging it.

In that spirit, Edible Indy, Edible Kentucky & Southern Indiana and Edible Ohio Valley came together to create this print edition. We wanted to be sure we didn’t miss an issue, and we needed each other in order to make it happen.

All of our sister Edible Communities publications are committed to sharing stories of people who are making an impact on their local food economies, along with delicious recipes, beautiful photos and local resources. With this issue, you’ll get a taste of two other Edible Communities titles you may not be familiar with but are just down the road.

In assembling the stories for this issue, we discovered that our local food ecosystems are surprisingly resilient and more vital than ever. We hope this special issue sparks optimism for the future and inspires you to see for yourself what’s happening across our region. And we invite you to keep up with the latest by following #localtogether and #ediblemidwest on social media.

edible kentucky & souther n indiana

Publisher Edible Kentucky Managing Editor Ann Curtis Copy Editor Doug Adrianson Art Direction & Design Leslie Friesen Contributors Catherine McBride, Jessica Kingsley, Lindsey McClave, Joe Phillips Advertising info@ediblekentucky.com Meagan Jeanette, Chuck Kavanaugh, Norma Taylor, Babs Freibert Contact/Subscribe P.O. Box 4820 Louisville, KY 40204 502.727.9799 EdibleKentucky.com info@ediblekentucky.com

edible ohio valley

Jennifer Rubenstein Edible Indy

Ann Curtis Edible Kentucky & Southern Indiana

Bryn Mooth Edible Ohio Valley

Publisher Fairview Press Editor Bryn Mooth Creative Director Julie Kramer Copy Editor Reed DeWinter Development Director Jennifer Kramer-Wine Contributors Keith Pandolfi, Tine Hofmann Distribution/Subscriptions Irene Kramer Advertising Amy Paul / amy@edibleohiovalley.com Mike Eck / mike@edibleohiovalley.com Contact/Subscribe P.O. Box 355 Terrace Park, OH 45174 513.297.0810 EdibleOhioValley.com edibleohiovalley@gmail.com

No part of this publication may be used without permission of the publisher. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere apologies in advance. Thank you. We reserve the right to edit or reject advertisements at our sole discretion and without notice. © 2020

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edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

Fresh Foodie Favorites To-Go! Full-service is a rare thing, but at The Cookery, we do it well!

• Choose from the finest selection of fresh seafood and meats in Carmel • We will cook it exactly to your preferences for a minimal fee • Skip the bother of making at home — it’s ready to eat!

One of the most celebrated services we’ve ever cooked up!

Our “Boneyard” Texas Bar-B-Q married to our “Antojitos” South of the Border street foods to create Smoqe: Serving Chef-inspired, signature Big Mex, Lil Tex classics: dishes prepared with local ingredients • House Smoqd (smoked) meats made ready to take with you.

• House Smoqd (smoked) Brisket, • Choose to eat out without Pulled Pork & Baby Baq Ribs eating out • Street Tacos, Quesadillas, Burritos, • Enjoy restaurant quality at your Nachos & so much more! table or desk • Crafted by the same passionate From quick tacos to-go to a Chefs who brought you table by complete meal with Smoq’n hot Market District sides and cornbread or a biscuit, we’re home on the range.

Made with love for those who love food.

11505 N. Illinois St., Carmel, IN 46032 317. 569. 0171 marketdistrict.com

Help

for Those on the

Fringe

Neal Brown, chef at award-winning Indy bar, The Libertine

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edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

A NEW CENTRAL INDIANA FOUNDATION AIMS TO PROVIDE RESOURCES FOR RESTAURANT WORKERS SUFFERING FROM MENTAL ILLNESS

edible indy

WORDS SHAUNA L. NOSLER | PHOTOGRAPHY MICHAEL SCHRADER

A

ccording to the National Institute of Mental Health, PROVIDING BALANCE “nearly one in five U.S. adults live with a mental illness,” “When the [corona] virus started spreading through our community yet only half receive treatment. And research conducted there was so much disruption,” Brown says. “At first, I knew it would

by Oregon Health & Science University shows that the bring on [more] serious depression in myself, but I kind of came out millions working within the hospitality and restaurant industry are of it and just realized ‘This is only going to get worse.’” That’s when “at greater risk for depression, sleep problems and stress compared Brown reached out to a few others and the concept for The Equilibre Foundation was born. with employees who work in non-tipped “The overwhelming truth is that we lack positions.”

balance, and the things that make other Well known as one of the top chefs in people successful are the things we’re the the Midwest, Indianapolis-based Neal worst at,” he says. The Equilibre FounBrown brings more than 20 years of restauWorkers in the dation aims to help individuals regain rant experience to the table. He’s earned balance in their lives by offering resources local and national recognition as both a accommodations and for addiction services, mental and physical restaurateur and chef; is a two-time nomifood services industry well-being and even financial awareness. nee for the prestigious James Beard Award “Restaurant workers can not only get for Best Chef in the Midwest Region; and are more likely to selfthe mental health help they need, but his bar, The Libertine, was recognized as they’ll be able to learn tools for being one of the 25 Best Bars in America by report illicit drug use financially responsible and even how to Esquire magazine. But while his successes and, at nearly 20 percent, take better care of their physical health.” have been many, Brown, like so many Along with Brown, the Foundation working in the food industry, suffers from post the highest rates of consists of nationally recognized experts depression and has for many years. poised to help those who need it. Peter “I’ve been very open about my struggle,” substance use disorder.

Dunn, a.k.a. Pete the Planner (USA Today says Brown. “In my industry, drug and columnist, contributor to CNN Headline alcohol abuse, mental health issues … it’s —Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration National Survey on Drug Use News, Fox News, Fox Business, and CEO nothing new. and Health of HeyMoney.com), will provide financial “Providing hospitality is a tough busiadvice; Amy Peddycord, founder of Invoke ness with a lot of stresses. We work long Studios, one of the most well known yoga hours in stressful conditions which affect and Pilates studios in Indy, will offer physiour diet, mood and relationships, and for cal wellness options; and Christine Johnnot a lot of money. Most people are living son (Vice President of Strategic Planning paycheck to paycheck and don’t have any idea how to be financially responsible.” It’s these conditions, says at the growth strategy firm Prolific and board member of Overdose Brown, that spur drug and alcohol abuse, mental health disorders Lifeline) will provide assistance with mental health resourcing. n and lead to high rates of divorce, obesity and depression.

“Think about it: When most everyone else is winding down, relax- Providing hospitality workers with a road map to physical, mental and ing, enjoying a night out … we’re on our top game. We don’t get to financial well-being. —The Equilibre Foundation relax until everyone else goes home. And when it’s time to go home, when the rest of society is winding down, we’re still jacked up so we Find out more by visiting equilibre.foundation go for cocktails with friends … it’s a wicked spiral.”

But while the working environment is unquestionably conducive to poor mental health, the people who work in the food industry A freelance journalist, Shauna L. Nosler believes everyone should tend to be also more susceptible to issues, just by their very nature. waste less and conserve more. She is passionate about responsible “We source people from the fringe of society,” says Brown of many of agriculture, sustainable seafood, the emerging plant-forward push and the people who work in restaurants and bars, whom he describes as just about anything that promotes simple, healthy living. She studied “creatives who are great at taking care of others, but lack the time or plant-based nutrition through Cornell University and writes about energy to take care of themselves.” the flexitarian lifestyle on her new blog, Gastro-Licious.com.

Find more of her published work at ShaunaNosler.com.

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

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EAST BERNSTADT, KY Overlooking beautiful Wood Creek Lake 60 miles south of Lexington

Where beauty, history, hospitality and local art come together.

GUEST RATED 5 STARS

“One of the most beautiful cabins in Kentucky” “Perfect place to relax and restore” “My third time here” “Outstanding hospitality” “The Moonshine is magical” “It’s like living in art” “A slice of forest paradise” “We can’t recommend this place enough” For updates, check our Facebook page or summitparkblueash.com

Don’t Let a New Highway

www.KYMoonshineInn.com Visit our website for a virtual tour!

Potential routes for the proposed MidStates Corridor highway would cut right through precious forestland and destroy habitat for the Northern long-eared and Indiana bats and other rare, threatened and endangered species.

Call Gov. Eric Holcomb’s office at 317.232.4567 and let him know

Destroy Huge Swaths of the Hoosier National Forest!

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edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

you are opposed to any new-terrain route for the highway through the Jasper, Indiana area.

Visit IndianaForestAlliance.org to donate, support and learn about conserving Indiana Forests.

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

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Buying local is more than just a trend. It’s imperative for healthy, vibrant communities. Indiana Originals connects consumers with local businesses to keep Indiana growing and thriving. Become a member today to get connected to local enthusiasts and like-minded business owners.

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edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

edible indy

together THEY STAND WORDS HANNAH DAILEY

WHILE THE PANDEMIC SHUT DOWN THE COUNTRY, CENTRAL INDIANA’S HOMETOWN HEROES ROSE UP TO HELP THEIR COMMUNITIES

D

ifferent from the crime-fighting, capewearing superheroes we usually see in the movies, a new kind of hero has emerged from the national tailspin caused by COVID-19: Doctors. Nurses. Teachers.

Even cashiers, restaurant staff and sanitation workers are now being met with a level of admiration usually reserved for Superman and Wonder Woman.

But while the essential workers are taking care of us, who is taking care of them? And who is looking out for people without the means to get the help they need?

Enter the community heroes. People who, regardless of the difficulties they’re personally facing, give resources to those who would otherwise go without and volunteer to help when extra hands are needed.

Even now, a real state of normalcy is nowhere in sight, and many of us are feeling like there’s no hope.

Here’s a look at a few selfless stories reminding us why there’s still a lot of it to go around.

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

To make sure Hoosiers didn’t go hungry during the pandemic, Gleaners Food Bank hosted two drive-through food drives on the Indiana Fairgrounds and at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway.

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

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Edible Indy BRINGING SCHOOL TO STUDENTS For some kids, school is a safe haven. It’s the only place where they know for sure they’ll eat lunch every day, read books and have an outlet for their natural curiosity.

Quarantine means they can’t go to their safe haven, but the Indy Learning Team partnered with the MLK Center to bring it to them. Starting in March, the organizations packaged boxes with food, school supplies and books, and delivered them each week to the homes of up to 100 students.

Executive Director Susan Appel says we can’t forget to nurture children’s learning needs during this crisis.

“They haven’t lost that routine, the desire to learn and engage, and the love of books,” says Appel.

BRING THE LOVE Although losing their prom and graduation ceremony was painful, the Lebanon, Indiana, High School seniors realized others in their community were experiencing much worse.

To help out, they launched Operation: Seniors Bring the Love. Participating seniors raised $18,000 in May to buy meals from local restaurants and deliver them personally to firefighters and hospital workers.

Leaders Jackie Terrill and Luke Ferrell say the town has always rallied around them, so it was only fitting they give something in return.

“People in Lebanon just want to give back,” says Ferrell. “That’s just the kind of community Lebanon is.”

NO ONE GOES HUNGRY To make sure Hoosiers don’t go hungry during the pandemic, Gleaners Food Bank hosted two drive-through food drives on the Indiana Fairgrounds and at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway.

Volunteers and the National Guard loaded a total of 7,200 boxes of produce, dairy and meat into cars that waited in line for up to three hours. Many who came were newcomers, possibly unable to afford groceries as a result of medical bills, caring for extra family members or unemployment.

Chief Programs Officer Kathy Hahn Keiner says Gleaners hopes to keep people from having to decide between paying rent and buying food.

“To be able to provide healthy, nutritious food to people, we hope that helps make it easier for them to pay other bills,” says Hahn Keiner.

FEEDING THE FRONTLINES When MBP Distinctive Catering was left without business during the shutdown, they used their facilities to make and deliver meals to essential workers. In one month, MBP provided around 2,000 food boxes (funded by some of their loyal clients) to test sites and hospital workers in Marion County, Indiana.

Director of Sales Brandy Briscoe says the most important thing now is serving others.

“With everything that’s going on, we don’t think of ourselves,” says Briscoe.

“It’s all about everyone else.” n

Hannah Dailey is starting her third year at Indiana University, where she studies journalism and film scoring. She’s the editorial intern for Edible Indy, and has worked as a writing intern for the NCAA Champion magazine and as the local music reporter for the Indiana Daily Student.

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edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

The Indy Learning Team

Lebanon High School Seniors

Gleaners Food Bank

MBP Distinctive Catering

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

Artisanal

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SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

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Huber’s

Orchard, Winery & Vineyards

Starlight, Indiana

19816 Huber Rd. • Borden, IN 47106 812.923.9463 • www.huberwinery.com 16

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

FOOD GRAM ADVENTURES Celebrate Edible goodness.

Tag us on all of your culinary journeys #ediblemidwest.

make a small journey with a big reward...

garden

growing perfection

café

garden to plate

native butterfly exhibit & gardens kentucky’s largest butterfly house

WilsonNurseriesKY.com

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Lexington + Frankfort

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Certified Organic Produce Pasture-Raised Meat & Eggs MONDAY-SATURDAY, 9AM-6PM őŖŅĢäŅùÁŅġ͠ĩŅú SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

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SPONSORED CONTENT

Lineage Market

An Indiana Company Defining a Healthier Future for People and the Land

F

ounded in 2018, the Indianapolis-based company is on a mission to move farming beyond the idea of sustainability and towards a path of regeneration. Their first step: hemp.

“FARMING AND HEALTH ARE INTERTWINED" —SARAH COTTERILL, CO-FOUNDER OF LINEAGE

Hemp is a bio-accumulator—a complicated word that means it cleans the soil by pulling out toxins like pesticides. It is also one of the highest-yielding crops on the planet, which makes it the perfect crop to use for carbon sequestration, the process of pulling the greenhouse gas carbon dioxide (CO2) from the atmosphere and capturing it in the soil.

Shortly after the legalization of industrial hemp in 2018, Lineage launched Lineage Hemp Group, a farmer outreach and education program aiming to give farmers the resources to transition from conventional farming to regenerative practices.

The company launched Lineage Hemp, a line of premium CBD products, shortly afterwards.

The profits they make from CBD sales go back into their farmer programs. Beyond pioneering agriculture, the company seeks to evolve the way the world thinks about business. “Our nation’s food system just isn’t working for so many farmers and consumers,” says Lineage’s partner, Doug Harlan, “so our primary goal is to create a system that works for everyone.

We can produce healthy products for our consumers, create economic wealth for our farmers and restore the earth. We are searching for that win-win.”

The company doesn’t plan to stop with hemp.

“We know food is really the most powerful medicine,” Cotterill says, “which is why we’ve transformed our Indianapolis headquarters into a functioning farm and farmers market.

By inviting people to our farm, we can share delicious fresh food, and close the gap between the farm and the table for people across our city.”

Visit the weekly Lineage Farmers Market 7802 Marsh Road, Indianapolis Fridays 4–7pm Learn more about the Lineage products at LineageHemp.com, or support their Indianapolis farm by joining their CSA program at LineageMarket.ag.

IN

IN

IN

Summer Farm Summer Market Guide Farm Market presented Guide by presented Market District

by Market District

Summer Farm Market Guide presented by Market District

This year more than ever, knowing where our food comes from and supporting local farmers, producers and makers is essential. Use this guide to expand your knowledge of some of those markets, farms and places that will deliver Hoosier hospitality, exceptionally fresh products and positive impacts with sustainable practices that truly make a difference from the ground up. We are all in this together. #LocalTogether Columbus Farmers Market FARM MARKET 123 Washington St. Columbus, IN Bartholomew ColumbusFarmersMarket.org SATURDAY 9AM–12:30PM THRU SEPTEMBER 19 Zionsville Farmers Market FARM MARKET New location: 1100 W. Oak St. Zionsville, IN Boone ZionsvilleFarmersMarket.org SATURDAY 8–10:30AM THRU SEPTEMBER 26 Nashville Indiana Farmers Market FARM MARKET 51 State Rd. 46 Nashville, IN Brown NashvilleIndianaFarmersMarket.com SUNDAY 11AM–2PM THRU OCTOBER This Old Farm Meats & Processing SPECIALTY FARM: FARM & PROCESSING 9572 W. County Rd. 650 S. Colfax, IN Clinton ThisOldFarm.com MONDAY–FRIDAY 9AM–6PM/ SATURDAY 9AM–2PM YEAR ROUND Farmers Market at Minnetrista FARM MARKET 1200 N. Minnetrista Pkwy.

Muncie, IN Delaware minnetrista.net SATURDAY 8AM–NOON YEAR ROUND New Albany Farm Market FARM MARKET 202 E. Market St. New Albany, IN Floyd NewAlbanyFarmersMarket.com SATURDAY 8AM–NOON YEAR ROUND

Batesville Farmers Market FARM MARKET Corner of Boehringer & Main St. Batesville, IN Franklin BatesvilleFarmersMarket.com SATURDAY 8–11AM THRU OCTOBER 31

Wheelers Café & Market FARM MARKET 25625 IN-37 Noblesville, IN Hamilton Mercantile37.com/wheelersmarket MONDAY–SUNDAY 9AM–5PM YEAR ROUND

Binford Farmers Market FARM MARKET 6620 Northview Way Indianapolis, IN Marion BinfordFarmersMarket.org SATURDAY 8AM–NOON THRU OCTOBER 31

Linton Farmers Market FARM MARKET Humphrey’s Park on State Rd. 54 Linton, IN Greene LintonFarmersMarket.com SATURDAY 9AM–1PM THRU SEPTEMBER 26

Tuttle Orchards SPECIALTY: ORCHARD & RETAIL 5717 N. 300 W. Greenfield, IN Hancock TuttleOrchards.com MONDAY–SATURDAY 9AM–6PM YEAR ROUND

Broad Ripple Farmers Market FARM MARKET 1115 Broad Ripple Ave. Indianapolis, IN Marion BroadRippleIndy.org/farmers-market SATURDAY 8AM–NOON THRU SEPTEMBER 26

Teter Organic Farm FARM RETAIL 10980 E. 221st St. Noblesville, IN Hamilton teterorganicfarm.com 9AM–5PM THRU OCTOBER

Farmers Market at the Fairgrounds FARM MARKET 620 N. Apple St. Greenfield, IN Hancock HoosierHarvestCouncil.com SATURDAY 8AM–NOON YEAR ROUND

Carmel Farmers Market FARM MARKET 5 Center Green Carmel, IN Hamilton CarmelFarmersMarket.com SATURDAY 8AM–NOON THRU SEPT 26 Fishers Farmers Market FARM MARKET 11601 Municipal Dr. Fishers, IN Hamilton PlayFishers.com SATURDAY 8AM–NOON THRU SEPTEMBER 26 Noblesville Farmers Market FARM MARKET Federal Hill Commons Noblesville, IN Hamilton NoblesvilleMainStreet.org SATURDAY 8AM–NOON THRU OCTOBER 24

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

Brownsburg Farmers Market FARM MARKET 61 N. Green St. Brownsburg, IN Hendricks BrownsburgParks.com/farmers-market THURSDAY 4:30–8PM THRU OCTOBER 8 Seymour Area Farmers Market FARM MARKET 105 S. Chestnut St. Seymour, IN Jackson SeymourChamber.com/farmers-market/ WEDNESDAY & SATURDAY 8AM–NOON THRU OCT 31 Frankton Town Market FARM MARKET 102 S. Church St. Frankton, IN Madison FranktonTownMarket.com SUNDAY 2–5PM THRU OCTOBER 25

Cumberland Farmers Market FARM MARKET 11501 E. Washington St. Indianapolis, IN Marion HoosierHarvestCouncil.com SATURDAY 8AM–NOON THRU OCTOBER East Side Marketspace FARM MARKET 5547 Bonna Ave. Indianapolis, IN Marion IndysFoodCoop.com MONDAY 5–8PM THRU OCTOBER Fresh Wednesday Market FARM MARKET 5505 E. Washington St. Indianapolis, IN Marion AtTheIrving.com WEDNESDAY 4–7PM YEAR ROUND Garfield Park Farmers Market FARM MARKET Conservatory Drive at Garfield Park Indianapolis, IN Marion GarfieldParkFarmersMarket.com SATURDAY 9AM–12:30PM THRU OCTOBER 24

Indianapolis Original City Market FARM MARKET Monument Circle‚ Downtown Indianapolis, IN Marion IndyCM.com/farmers-market WEDNESDAY 9AM–1PM THRU OCTOBER Irvington Farmers Market FARM MARKET 5301 E. St. Clair St. Indianapolis, IN Marion IrvingtonGardenClub.org SUNDAY NOON–3PM THUR OCTOBER 11 Lineage the Market FARM MARKET 7802 Marsh Rd. Indianapolis, IN Marion LineageMarket.ag FRIDAY 4–7PM THRU OCTOBER 30 Urban Awareness Gardens Drive-up Farmers Stand SPECIALTY: DRIVE-UP 1645 Central Ave. Indianapolis, IN Marion JasonMichaelThomas.com SATURDAY 11AM–1PM THRU OCTOBER Indy’s Community Food Co-op SPECIALTY:ONLINE CSA Local delivery & pickup Indianapolis, IN Marion IndysFoodCoop.com TUESDAY 4–7PM YEAR ROUND Near North Farmers Market FARM MARKET Herron High School 110 E. 16th St. Indianapolis, IN Marion IndianaBlackFarmers.com SATURDAYS 9:00AM–NOON THRU OCTOBER

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

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Bloomington Community Farmers Market FARM MARKET 401 N. Morton St. Bloomington, IN Monroe Bloomington.IN.gov/farmersmarket SATURDAY 8AM–1PM THRU NOVEMBER 28 Morgan County Farmers Market FARM MARKET 460 S. Main St. Martinsville, IN Morgan Mcfarmers.org SATURDAY 9AM–1PM THRU SEPTEMBER 26

Cloverdale Farmers & Makers Market FARM MARKET 302 S. Main St. Cloverdale, IN Putnam CloverdaleMainStreet.org SATURDAY 8AM–NOON THRU SEPTEMBER

Shelby County Farmers Market FARM MARKET 18 N. Harrison St. Shelbyville, IN Shelby MainStreetShelbyville.org SATURDAY 8AM–NOON THRU SEPTEMBER 26

Richmond Farmers Market FARM MARKET 47 N. 6th St. Richmond, IN Wayne RichmondIndiana.gov/resources/farmers-market SATURDAY 8AM–NOON YEAR ROUND

Heart of Rushville Farmers & Artisans Market FARM MARKET 223 N. Main St. Rushville, IN Rush SATURDAY 9AM–12:30PM THUR OCTOBER 10

Lafayette Farmers Market FARM MARKET 5th St. between Main & Columbia Lafayette, IN Tippecanoe LafayetteFarmersMarket.com SATURDAY 8AM–12:30PM THRU OCTOBER

Monticello Farmers Market FARM MARKET Sprint Parking lot (Corner of Illinois St. & Washington St.) Monticello, IN White MonticelloINFarmersMarket. weebly.com TUESDAY 5–7PM THRU AUGUST

Our Commitment

to Local Foods & You We are celebrating our 5TH year in Hoosier Country and it is more exciting than ever.

Our partnership through the Indiana Grown program has allowed us to build relationships with many local producers and food suppliers.

Our Carmel store carries more than 60 60 Indiana-grown products including locally grown produce; fresh pastas; handmade cakes, pies and sweets; and award-winning craft beer and spirits.

Farmers Market Experience

Limit your time and interactions at the market.

Do not bring your pets.

(Sorry, Champ!)

Follow the marked traffic pattern.

Sanitize, sanitize, sanitize.

And also...sanitize.

Do not eat or drink at the market.

Pre-order and pre-pay when possible.

11505 N. Illinois St., Carmel, IN | MarketDistrict.com

Use cards or phones instead of cash.

Presented by the

I ND I ANA F O RE ST A L L I A N C E Hosted at the

B I LT W E L L E V E NT C E NT E R

9 5 0 S . W H I TE R I V E R PAR KWAY W. D R .

I NDI A NA PO LI S

Be kind, be patient and be understanding.

Save the Date

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

TIPS FOR A SAFE

Maintain social distance of six feet.

May we be in this #together.

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Market Wagon SPECIALTY: ONLINE ONLY Local delivery: see website for Midwest locations MarketWagon.com YEAR ROUND

Wanting to get out and enjoy your favorite farmers market, but not sure how to do it safely? Just follow these guidelines.

During this difficult time, a variety of local suppliers have worked heroically to help us navigate through all of this together. Heartfelt thanks goes out to Simplicity Juices, Legacy Maker Meats, Fischer Farms, Caito Produce, Indiana Fruits and Piazza Produce. We continue our commitment to supporting our love for local with our Indiana Grown products, makers and you, our loyal customers.

9 .1 7 .2 0

SLOT Farms FARM RETAIL 902 S. Main St. Monticello, IN White Slot-Farms.com SATURDAY 9AM–1PM THRU OCTOBER

INDIANAFORESTALLIANCE.ORG

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

Leveling the Pandemic Playing Field

for Local Farmers, Producers & Artisans

PARTNIN ERSHIP

Z

MARK WAGO ET N

When COVID-19 threatened the livelihood of farmers across the Midwest, Market Wagon was put to the ultimate test. An online grocery service bringing the farmers market to your doorstep, Market Wagon became one of the foremost ways for farmers to sell their product seemingly overnight.

While mainstream grocers and grocery delivery services couldn’t keep up with demands, Market Wagon continued to get fresh produce to their customers uninterrupted. In fact, the business grew by 600% in the last two weeks of March alone.

Founded in 2016, they were already improving the lives of local communities long before the pandemic. Vendors gather weekly in designated locations across the Midwest to fulfill orders placed by shoppers online. This platform levels the playing field for these farmers, producers and artisans, many of whom struggle to compete with big grocery chains.

For over 40 market vendors The Brownsburg Farmers Market features over 40 local vendors selling Indiana-grown and produced products, music, food trucks and a kids club. WIC and SNAP accepted.

61 N. Green St., Brownsburg, IN Open through Oct. 8 Thursdays 4–7pm Pre-ordering available from vendors Brownsburg.org/FarmersMarket

For seven acres of organic farm Lineage Market is more than a farmers market, it’s a seven-acre organic farm. Centrally located at the historic Normandy Farm, their mission is to bridge the gap between the farm and table by making regenerative-organic food accessible to families across Indianapolis.

7802 Marsh Rd., Indianapolis, IN LineageMarket.ag

“It’s a community. People on Market Wagon are buying from individuals, farmers that they can know. You’re not buying from a faceless, nameless sticker on a package.”

NICK CARTER Co-founder, Market Wagon

The modern hardships of farmers are personal to co-founder Nick Carter, who grew up on a struggling farm. Helping his own family’s farm in addition to over 300 others has been fulfilling, but preserving the relationship between producers and customers is what he’s most proud of.

To have local food delivered to your home, or to find out how your products can be featured, check out MarketWagon.com.

Delivery available in select areas of Indiana, Ohio and Kentucky.

For vegetables, herbs & CBD Silverthorn Farm offers certified organic vegetables and herbs as well as a custom line of organic CBD products for online ordering and pickup every week. Place orders online at SilverthornFarm.com with pickup on Fridays on the farm in Rossville, IN, or on Saturdays at the Broad Ripple Farmers Market in Indianapolis.

CBD products available to ship anywhere in the United States.

Want more Indiana Farms and Market Listings?

Visit EdibleIndy.com for our extensive 2020 guide and map.

VISITING INDIANA THIS SUMMER? DOWNLOAD THE APP TODAY.

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

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Discover Your #LOVEINDY Moment Natural Social Distancing Vacation 350 acres in the  of Kentucky Rates or to Reserve 606-723-4786 info@snughollow.com www.snughollow.com

SHOP FRESH & LOCAL IN A NEW WAYAT THE

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Soaking up patio season at Livery

2nd street market E SECOND ST DOWNTOWN DAYTON

Indy was named one of “America’s Favorite Food Cities” by Food & Wine. Dig in and share the love, because you are going to like what you taste.

SATURDAYS

AM TO

PM

Support local farmers at the 2nd Street Market, now open as an outdoor shopping venue. Shoppers should plan ahead, as a number of precautions are in place to slow the spread of COVID-19. Details are online.

For what to see, do, and eat, go to VisitIndy.com

METROPARKS ORG/LOCALFOOD 22

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

edible kentucky

rising to the challenge W

Photograph: ©2020, Provided

hen the COVID-19 quarantine shut down local restaurants in March, we were devastated and silent. We all knew it was coming, but to know it’s knocking at your door is a very different reality than watching others face it on social media or television. We were shell-shocked for two days—then realized we needed to get back to work, somehow.

Knowing our perishable food would go bad, we donated it to our workers who were suddenly out of work. We needed a sense of purpose; we needed to give back to the workers who have been providing hospitality to our communities every day for years.

Chef Edward Lee and Lindsey Ofcacek, founders of the LEE Initiative, gave us that opportunity with the Restaurant Workers Relief Program. Thanks to a donation from Maker’s Mark Distillery, we gathered essential household items and served hot meals to feed laid off restaurant workers and their families every day. There are no words to fully describe what it felt like to experience the gratitude of the many service workers who received support and love during this scary time. With additional donations, we joined forces with 610 Magnolia, Lee’s flagship Louisville restaurant, to serve Louisville industry workers while still keeping tabs on the people we served in New Albany, Indiana. The streets were empty but our hearts were full, serving over 200 people per week. The program expanded to 18 other cities in the U.S., providing over 275,000 meals.

Moving forward, we are working with the LEE Initiative’s Restaurant Reboot Relief Program, a $1 million commitment to purchase produce from local farmers for restaurants to create more sustainable food supply chains. Restaurants that have hosted restaurant-worker relief centers will receive the food and help select other local restaurants to participate.

This remains a trying time for all of us. I have witnessed firsthand amazing beauty from great loss. I have seen open doors and hearts, open minds and people united for a greater sense of purpose. We look forward to enduring this time, coming out stronger together. n

Learn more about The LEE Initiative Restaurant Relief Program, Restaurant Reboot Relief Program, McAtee Community Kitchen, Restaurant Regrow Program and Women Chefs Program at LeeInitiative.org

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

Be well, Joe Phillips, Owner Pints & Union Restaurant 114 East Market St. | New Albany, IN 47150 812.913.4647 | PintsAndUnion.com

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

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edible

communities

CLEAN AIR C L E A N W AT E R CLEAN SOIL

grow with us 3470 Snook Road, MoRRow, oH 45152 513.295.5081 • Aberlin springs.com Live where your food is grown at aberLin springs

1120 Brown Street // Dayton, Ohio Mon-Fri 8am-–7pm // Sat & Sun 9am-–5pm glodayton.com

CLEAN FOOD R E A D . E AT. D R I N K . T H I N K .

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1106 Brown Street // Dayton, Ohio Mon 8am-2pm // Tue-Sun 7am-3pm buttercafedayton.com

Butter-Glo 2020.indd edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

2

2.19.20 3:13 PM REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

Farmers’ Markets Louisville

Propsect Area FM

Norton Commons FM

New Albany FM Lyndon FM Phoenix Hill Nulu FM

New Roots Fresh Stop Markets (purple dots): Local seasonal food markets for all income levels and located in eight food insecure areas in Louisville and New Albany, IN. Accepts SNAP, EBT, cash and debit.

St. Matthews FM

The East End FM

Jeffersontown FM

Beechmont Open Air FM

editors’ note: We have made every attempt to include current information on all Farmers’ Markets in the edible Kentucky & Southern Indiana area, we apologize for any that were omitted or are inaccurate. Please send corrections to annQcurtis@gmail.com.

Riverview FM

New Albany FM Jefferson County (see map above)

For online listings by county, visit kyagr.com/marketing/farmers-marketdirectory-printable-format.aspx Owen County FM

Henry County FM La Grange FM

Scott County FM

Franklin County FM

Shelby County FM Simpsonville FM

Lexington FM

Taylorsville FM Mt. Washington FM Meade County FM

WEDNESDAYS Middletown FM New Albany Indiana FM (July–Sept)

Eastwood Village FM

Bardstown Road FM

Jeffersonville FM

TUESDAYS Lyndon FM Jeffersonville FM Phoenix Hill Nulu FM The East End Farmers’ Market

Middletown FM

Douglass Loop FM

Bluegrass Black Soil: Our Better Nature Bringing together urban families with rural and urban based black farmers/growers/ producers across the state of Kentucky, and reconnecting black Kentuckians to their legacy and heritage in agriculture with farm tours, farm-to-table dinners, off season workshops, arm share program, and weekly meal plans.

SUNDAYS Logan Street FM Norton Commons FM Rainbow Blossom FM

Westport Road Baptist FM

Rainbow Blossom FM

NewRootsProduce.org

SATURDAYS Bardstown Road FM Beechmont Open Air FM Douglass Loop FM The East End Farmers’ Market Eastwood Village FM Jeffersontown FM Jeffersonville FM New Albany Indiana FM Prospect Area FM St. Matthews FM Westport Road Baptist FM

Woodford County FM

Anderson County FM (The Old Depot)

Nicholasville FM

Bardstown FM

ParisBourbon County FM Chevy Chase FM Montgomery County FM WinchesterClark County FM

Bluegrass FM

Powell County FM

Mercer County FM Madison County FM Hardin County FM

BlackSoilKY.com

Boyle County FM

Larue County FM

Estill County FM

Berea FM

Lebanon FM Lincoln County FM FM Association of Taylor County

SATURDAYS Anderson County FM (The Old Depot) Bardstown FM Berea FM Bluegrass FM Boyle County FM Franklin County FM Hardin County FM Henry County FM Jeffersonville, IN FM La Grange FM Lebanon FM Lexington FM Lincoln County FM London-Laurel County FM Madison County FM

Meade County FM Mercer Co FM Montgomery County FM Mt. Washington FM New Albany Indiana FM Nicholasville FM Paris-Bourbon County FM Powell County FM Scott County FM Shelby County FM Simpsonville FM Somerset FM Taylor County FM Taylorsville FM Winchester-Clark County FM Woodford Co FM

Hart County FM

THURSDAYS WEDNESDAYS

SUNDAYS Lexington FM

MONDAY Paris-Bourbon County FM Woodford County FM

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

Chevy Chase FM Franklin County FM Hardin County FM TUESDAYS Henry County FM Lebanon FM Bardstown FM Lexington FM Berea FM Inc Mercer FM Bluegrass FM Montgomery County FM Estill County FM Mt. Washington FM Franklin County FM New Albany Indiana FM Hart County FM Paris-Bourbon County FM Lexington FM Powell County FM Lincoln County FM Somerset FM Meade County FM Paris-Bourbon County FM Riverview FM Woodford County FM Powell County FM

Franklin County FM Larue County FM Lexington FM Paris-Bourbon County FM Powell County FM Somerset FM

Somerset FM

LondonLaurel County FM

FRIDAYS Bardstown FM Estill County FM Hart County FM Lincoln County FM Montgomery Co FM Owen County FM Paris-Bourbon County FM Powell County FM

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley 15 edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley 25

114 EAST MARKET ST. NEW ALBANY

HEALTHY LIFESTYLES NEED HEALTHY OPTIONS

Lebanon Farmer’s Market May 14 - October 8, 2020

Thursdays, 3-7 pm in Downtown Lebanon Fruits, Vegetables, Meats, Artisan Products Contact: cburdick@lebanonohio.gov

Healthy Living Market

September 12, 2020

10 am - 2 pm in Downtown Lebanon Fitness Classes, Screenings, Vendors, Zoo on the Move & more!

Find them here!

A weekly farmer’s market, annual fitness festival, bike park, walking trails, a variety of restaurants that cater to health-conscious living, and unique shops that offer products and services to promote healthy lifestyles... we have it all, right here, in Lebanon.

lebanonohio.gov 26

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

northern & southern italian food - family style-

see us at the Madeira Farmers Market - Thursdays through October 513-272-2220

7677 goff terrace, madeira, oh

SallyTreats ’s & Treasures 701 East Epworth Ave Don Your Mask & Shop the Market Saturdays, 8 am to 12 noon www.smfarmersmarket.com

Cincinnati, OH 45232 Mon, Weds, Sat by appointment

Resale kitchenware and more!

4170 Hamilton Ave

Cincinnati, OH 45223 Mon, Weds, Sat 11 am – 2 pm

916-300-8367 • LKLK@aol.com • WhereCooksMeet.com Donations welcome any time.

Selling? Please call for appointment.

Z I O N S V I L L E I N D I A N A’ S PR E M I E R E V E NT FAC I L IT Y W EDDINGS. CORPOR ATE . CHARIT Y. EVENTS.

We provide a stunning venue on the grounds of the award winning Golf Club of Indiana featuring a breathtaking deck, excel at the ease of planning and will make any event memorable. Allow us to be YOUR destination.

FEATURING OUR BREATHTAKING 6,000 SQ. FT. DECK. Contact JOE KARTHOLL

THECARDINALROOM.COM joe@thecardinalroom.com

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

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Edible kentucky

the power of local

KENTUCKY & SOUTHERN INDIANA BUSINESSES NIMBLY RESPOND TO PANDEMIC CHALLENGE

WORDS CATHERINE MCBRIDE

L

Amazingly, MESA Kids saw signups for classes increase, since this ocal businesses have deep roots in their communities and close connections to their customers. In the Louisville, new format offered almost complete schedule and distance flexibility, Lexington and southern Indiana regions, local business according to MESA owner Bobby Bass. They are now considering expanding their online kids’ cooking school owners have shown their dedication programs nationwide, shipping the needed and creativity to keep their businesses going ingredients to their students wherever they live. and continue to serve customers in the midst Bass’ partner business MESA, A Collaboraof a global pandemic. tive Kitchen, offers its customers the unique No one could guide them on how to best experience of watching a chef prepare a gourmet take care of their customers as well as their meal in bar-like seating around the kitchen. staff. Owners and managers weren’t sure how Because an online format was not possible, they to best respond to this crisis to safely keep their adapted by offering themed takeout dinners businesses afloat. They had to make many hard with virtual trivia games. decisions about what to do, and didn’t have a Carmichael’s Books, with three locations lot of time to make crucial plans that would in the Louisville area, had a steady stream affect a lot of people. of orders on their website, but hadn’t been Business owners in these regions regrouped —Bobby Bass, owner of MESA, doing a large volume of online sales. However, and applied their creativity to make plans to A Collaborative Kitchen and MESA once they were forced to close their doors to keep their businesses running and serve their Kids Cooking School customers in March, Carmichael’s saw a huge customers during completely unfamiliar cirincrease in online ordering of books, said cumstances. They figured out how to shift their co-owner Miranda Blankenship. They also business plans to meet the needs of customers in this new reality. These businesses took varied paths, but learned a added non-book items to their website like puzzles, cards, games and lot of things along the way—and in some cases, made changes they clothing. Customers could choose to have their items delivered locally, shipped anywhere or could do curbside pickup. Carmichael’s also expect to keep. moved their book club online to allow it to continue despite social distancing mandates, and are exploring additional online event options.

MOVING ONLINE MESA Kids Cooking School in New Albany, Indiana, offers cooking classes for kids aged 5–15. Unfortunately, they were not able to TAKEOUT continue offering classes in their classroom during the pandemic. Suddenly ordered to close their doors to customers, local restaurants However, MESA Kids took advantage of video streaming tools and had to scramble for ways to keep their businesses going when trabegan offering cooking classes online. They prepared boxes of ingre- ditional dine-in service was no longer an option. In addition, they dients for the class assignments and made those available for curbside wanted to keep employing their staff and to ensure the food that they pickup or for shipping. had in storage didn’t go to waste.

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“Everything changed in 24 to 48 hours.”

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

Photos: (Left ) Jose Morones, (Right) Cat Mac Dowall

Left: MESA Kids Cooking School in New Albany, Indiana, went online with Chef Liz Martino and Atalia Morones. Right: Naïve in Louisville expanded their menu options to include essential items.

Cat Mac Dowall, owner of Naïve, a restaurant in the Butchertown neighborhood in Louisville that focuses on fresh, local, innovative food and drinks, knew she needed to be creative to find ways to continue to serve customers and sell stored ingredients. In addition to offering their food and drinks for curbside carryout and delivery, she introduced a $10 lunch special, which brought a lot of new customers.

Similarly, the owners of Corto Lima restaurant in Lexington were overwhelmed in the early days of the pandemic, trying to figure out what to do to keep their business alive. They decided to lay off their 52 employees to allow them to start collecting unemployment immediately. TJ Cox, managing partner, said it was the hardest day of his two decades of work in the service industry.

Corto Lima began offering curbside food on Wednesdays and Sundays, adding an outdoor hostess station to facilitate the filling of orders and expediting the line of cars waiting for pickups, explained Cox. Though they found steep learning curves in all these changes, they have now hit their stride and are adjusting to the new model.

Customers have too, continuing to come to the restaurant the two nights a week they offer carryout. As they change their menu offerings every week, Corto Lima has started sending e-mail blasts to let customers know about that week’s options. They have slowly been able to bring back their staff as the situation has stabilized.

BARE NECESSITIES In the early days of the pandemic, grocery stores were crowded with people stocking up on necessities, such as toilet paper, hand sanitizer, rice, beans and pasta. These items quickly grew scarce as stores had a difficult time keeping them in stock. Mac Dowall quickly realized that, with no other grocery nearby, she had an opportunity to serve

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

their customers in a new way. As a community oriented business, she wanted to provide things that their customers needed and wanted the most during this time.

Naïve began selling some of their restaurant ingredients directly to customers, along with take-and-bake items such as biscuits and cookies, coffee by the bag, tortilla chips, hummus and queso. Once she realized that the farmers who supply their ingredients were being hit hard, she wanted to do something to support them as well. She responded by buying farm-fresh eggs, sausage, bacon and lettuce and selling those items to customers. In addition, she offered hard-to-find items like toilet paper. Customers gratefully showed up to buy these items, delighted to have a place nearby to get necessities. “I wouldn’t be doing it if I weren’t super passionate about our community,” said Mac Dowall.

COCKTAILS TO GO In both Indiana and Kentucky, as the pandemic began to spread, emergency laws were passed to allow restaurants to sell takeout alcoholic drinks even without having package liquor licenses. This allowed them to continue to provide adult beverages to their customers, retaining an important source of revenue despite not being allowed to have customers on the premises. Mac Dowall took full advantage, offering different themed weeks for their drinks and creating special cocktails named after local businesses.

The owners of Corto Lima also saw the opportunity provided by this law change and began developing to-go cocktails. This allowed them to offer prickly pear margarita mix, along with agave spirits and premium wines for their customers to enjoy with their carryout food. They have been developing cocktails that pair perfectly with

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Left: Corto Lima in Lexington offers Handmade Margarita Mix to accompany takeout orders. Right: Using local ingredients and Mason jars, Holly Hill Inn in Midway crafts cocktails to pair with weekly menu options.

their menu, sending out e-mails to their customers to inform them of each week’s offerings.

Holly Hill Inn in Midway, Kentucky, also shifted to offering to-go food and drinks for their customers, according to Donna Hecker, Director of Events. They focused on bottled wine sales, featuring a different wine each week. They also offered craft cocktails in 16-ounce Mason jars, designed to be taken home, mixed and consumed with takeout food orders. They found that the cocktails, seasonally flavored with local ingredients as are the rest of their offerings, were very popular with their customers.

GRATITUDE

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edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

CARMICHAELS: CarmichaelsBookStore.com CORTO LIMA: CortoLima.com HOLLY HILL INN: HollyHillInn.com MESA KIDS COOKING SCHOOL: MesaKidsCookingSchool.com MESA, A COLLABORATIVE KITCHEN: MesaChefs.com NAÏVE: EatNaive.com

Catherine McBride is a former professional chef who enjoys writing about food and loves to cook with fresh ingredients from local farms and businesses.

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

Photos: Courtesy of Corto Lima

For many businesses, though there were many huge challenges to overcome, their efforts paid off. They are grateful for their hardworking and dedicated staff, who took on a lot of changes in a very short time. “How lucky we are to have been able to continue to run our business during this time and the community support has just been so amazing. It is really what had kept us going these last eight weeks.

That and our amazing staff, without whom we couldn’t do any of this,” said Blankenship.

According to Cox, when the pandemic started, Corto Lima was forced to lay off their staff and the owners and their family members figured out how to make the new model work. They then were able to rehire some of their staff to put the new plan in place. “The staff we’ve been able to bring back has gone all in and been 100% on board with a willingness to make this as successful as possible. Guests showing up time after time and enjoying the same great quality they came to expect in the dining room has really made us shine,” said Cox.

LOOKING FORWARD Several local businesses made changes to cope with the pandemic that they now expect to make permanent because they have proven so successful. As restrictions have eased, all businesses have reopened, following state guidelines and are adhering to safety protocols. Be sure to check business websites for the most up-to-date information.

Although it’s unclear if the new to-go alcohol laws will remain, several businesses indicated they would like to keep providing takeout alcohol with their to-go food orders. .

Local businesses have deep roots in their communities and are cherished by their customers. With great amounts of creativity and grit, many were able to continue serving customers during a global pandemic. It’s an amazing testament to the power of local. n

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COOKIE LOVE?

Celebrating 100 years in 2021!

Blue Mondays (Kentucky’s unique candy bar), Woodford Reserve® Bourbon Balls, Cream Candy, Chewy Caramels… a few of our signature items.

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Visit our store 1398 Bardstown Rd, 40204 or kizito.com & Enter “COOKIELOVE” at check out, for a 15% off, Purchase of $30 or more!

Louisville, Ky • 502-456-2891 • Kizito.com

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SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

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No single type of pest control treatment is appropriate in every situation, but at Swat Team Pest Control, our general approach is “kill it now.” If you have invading pests like ants, oriental roaches, spiders, crickets, wasps, or millipedes, Charlie we prefer to kill what you’ve got, and then treat the outside to kill future invaders outside, rather than wait until they get inside. Most recurring service is focused on the outside, with visual inspections inside, treating inside when necessary.

If you have a pest you don’t recognize, try to save it for us, and we’ll tell you what it is and what is necessary to eliminate it.

Swat Team Pest Control 7104 Sunny Vale Way Louisville, KY 40272

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Steckler Grassfed Farms is a family-owned, certiied organic farm in Southern Indiana. We are proud to offer artisan, raw-aged cheese, pasture-raised poultry (eggs, broilers, and turkeys), lamb, beef, and pork. Our farm partners with nature to deliver more nutrition in your food, while decreasing our environmental footprint.

Visit StecklerGrassfedFarms.com to learn more about the Steckler Grassfed difference.

Ramon

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502-296-2402 swatteamky.com

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

edible ohio valley

Don’t FENCE Us In Local food businesses pivoted quickly to process online orders.

As shutdown orders descended on Indiana, Ohio and Kentucky in March, small food entrepreneurs had to quickly lean into a sales channel that hadn’t previously been much of a focus: ecommerce. While processing and shipping orders added complexity to their businesses, it allowed them to serve existing customers, find new ones, grow their brands—and simply keep operating.

Looking to sample local delicacies from nearby states? These sources sell online and ship regionally.

Sweets & Treats

Photos: Provided by Brook’s Naturals, Chocolats Latour, Taste-T-Love

Brooke’s Naturals BrookesCandyCo.com Brooke Schmidt has been making chocolate since she was a teenager.

Her toffee, caramels, truffle brownies and other treats are flat-out irresistible.

Just Pop In! Popcorn JustPopInPopcorn.com Twin sisters run this gourmet popcorn shop; they partner with other Indy purveyors like Sun King Brewery and Smoking Goose to create unique flavors.

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

My Sugar Pie MySugarPie.com Touted by Country Living and People, this two-location bakery is known for their sugar cream pie.

Their Pie Club makes a great gift.

Newfangled Confections NewfangledConfections.com Carrie Abbott’s culinary experimentation yielded “frittle”—a cross of fudge and brittle. She sells frittle, chocolate-dipped cookies, caramels and other goodies.

Georgia’s Sweet Potato Pie Co. GeorgiasSweets.com Deyago and Dawn Urrutia named their bakery after Dawn’s maternal grandmother, who shared love with all. That love is baked into every pie.

Kizito Cookies Kizito.com Founder Elizabeth Kizito says that her family’s African roots, the American Dream plus lots of hard work are mixed in with the chocolate chips and nuts in her baked goods.

Chocolats Latour ChocolatsLatour.com Shalini Latour’s hand-painted truffles and caramels are works of art, and her artisan chocolate bars feature exotic flavors and locally sourced ingredients.

Twist Cup Cakery TwistCupCakeryDayton.com Promising “happiness in a jar, wherever you are!” Twist ships halfpint jar cupcakes in flavors like red velvet, bourbon pecan and white chocolate peanut butter.

Baby Food Café Baby CafeBabyToGo.com Get age-specific, wholesome, frozen foods for babies and toddlers delivered by subscription right to your home.

Taste-T-Love TasteTLove.com Inspired by her grandmother, Kourtney Terry created a line of natural, pure fruit and veggie purées. Pouches are available for shipping and can be stored in the freezer.

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Pantry & Personal Care Frangipani Body Products FrangipaniBodyProducts.com From almond oil to ylang ylang, this plant-based skincare brand uses natural ingredients to craft gentle, soothing products.

Wildflower Ridge Honey WildflowerRidgeHoney.square.site The full range of honey products: from bee pollen and beeswax to whipped honey and infused honey, along with honey peanut butter.

The Healing Kitchen OneWiseCracker.com Aiming to heal bodies and bellies, owner Tiffany Wise uses local, whole ingredients for healthy foods. Bone broth, flaxseed crackers and fermented vegetables are available for shipping.

Pappy Van Winkle Barrel Aged Maple Syrup PappyCo.com Can’t get your hands on a bottle of pricey Pappy bourbon? This awardwinning maple syrup on your Sunday pancakes might be the next best thing.

JohnTom’s Barbecue JohnTomsBBQ.com Backyard barbecue enthusiast John Tom Branson’s secret recipes are behind Indiana’s favorite brand of handcrafted barbecue sauces.

Weisenberger Mills Weisenberger.com Family-owned and operated for six generations, this central Kentucky mill produces flavorful cornmeal, grits, flours and baking mixes.

Bourbon Barrel Foods BourbonBarrelFoods.com A smorgasbord of bourbon-flavored and -influenced products, from barrel-aged vanilla extract to mint julep-infused sugar to Bluegrass Soy Sauce.

MadHouse Vinegar GoodVinegar.com This artisan produces “small batch vinegar from small batch beverages” made from expired wine, leftover local beer, foraged flavorings and rescued produce.

Meats & Cheeses Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheeses KennysCheese.com This on-farm creamery churns out signature American and Europeanstyle cheeses plus flavored cheddars and a killer blue-gouda hybrid. On-farm accommodations through Airbnb, too!

Our Home Place Meat The-Berry-Center.square.site An initiative of The Berry Center, farmer-activist Wendell Berry’s legacy, this market is a model for humanely raised and sustainably produced meat. Sampler and gift boxes are available for shipping.

My Artisano MyArtisanoCheese.com Using locally sourced milk, talented cheesemaker Eduardo Rodriguez handcrafts fabulous European-style artisan cheeses; assortments are available for shipping.

Smoking Goose SmokingGoose.com Indy’s premier producer of cured meat goodness ships products like mortadella, pepper bacon, Italian-style salami and sausages directly to you.

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edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

Lamp Post Cheese LampPostCheese.com Small-batch cheeses made from raw milk—such as French tomme and Spanish mahon—are the hallmark of this young creamery.

Grassroots Farm & Foods GrassrootsFoods.biz/store In addition to flavorful grassgrazed beef, this farm direct-ships foods prepared in their kitchen, including sliders, aioli, meatballs and ragu.

Tea Hills Farms TeaHillsFarms.com/s/shop A veritable online butcher shop for farm-raised meats: whole chicken, soup bones, duck breasts, pork hocks and more.

Drinks & Mixers

Gents Original GentsOriginal.com/shop Don’t disrespect your artisan spirits by stirring them into storebought mixers. Gents Original bottles quality mixers for mint juleps, mules and old fashioneds.

Root Natural Sodas RootBeverage.com This family-owned company draws on their history in the apothecary business to create vintage-style cream soda, root beer and cherry soda.

Amazing Hazel’s AmazingHazels.com Up your brunch game with their premium Bloody Mary mixer; their gourmet chili sauce, made from a family recipe, is essential on eggs and burgers.

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edible ohio valley

Recovering HOW DID OHIO VALLEY’S FOOD COMMUNITY RESPOND TO COVID-19?

WITH GUTS, GRACE AND GRATITUDE. WORDS KEITH PANDOLFI PHOTOGRAPHY TINE HOFMANN

I

didn’t know what to expect at Findlay Market that day in April. It had been almost a month since I’d been there, but I wanted some good spinach because I’d been eating a lot of clamshell spinach since the lockdown started, and clamshell spinach just isn’t very good. Pulling into the parking lot, I saw about 10 cars lined up before a stand where customers could pick up orders from their favorite vendors without getting out of their cars.

We were six weeks into the quarantine and my spirits were low. I was missing my old routines: happy hours at MadTree in Oakley, early dinners of scrap sandwiches and negronis at Longfellow in Over-the-Rhine. I missed the Hungarian mushroom soup at the National Exemplar in Mariemont, the pho at KiKi in College Hill. I missed the scent of warm corn tortillas at Tortilleria Garcia, the goetta and good conversation at Tucker’s on Vine, the General Chu’s street chicken at AmerAsia in Covington, the pitch-perfect lasagna—and Goodfellas atmosphere—of Maury’s Tiny Cove in Cheviot. This is all to say that, as a food writer who moved back home to the Ohio Valley after 16 years in New York, partly because I was so taken by the energy of its food scene, what I was really missing was life itself.

The saddest part of the virus arriving here when it did was that after decades of

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

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trial and error, Cincinnati had finally hit its stride. National media were celebrating our dining scene. Jose Salazar had earned three James Beard Award semifinalist nods for his restaurants where the food feels upscale but the atmosphere remains unbuttoned. Ryan Santos, the chef and owner of Please, had garnered his own JBF semifinalist nod in 2020 for his inventive tasting menus. Tony and Austin Ferrari had relocated back home from San Francisco, opening a friendly Camp Washington coffee shop before expanding to a bright, uplifting space called Fausto inside the Contemporary Arts Center. Molly Wellmann had become known as one of the best bartenders in the country. Sixteen Bricks was featured in Esquire magazine; Allez Bakery in Food & Wine.

My point is that Cincinnati was no longer an up-and-coming culinary destination; it was a fully realized one—an established culinary ecosystem in which supremely talented chefs were feeding off a community of equally skilled small farmers, bakers, butchers, fermenters, cheesemakers, ice cream and gelato makers, all of whom inspired meals the likes of which this city had never seen.

The question COVID-19 presented was how the various parts of this ecosystem would openings. “It’s been crazy here!” she told me. respond. How would they adapt? And would “I’ve never seen anything like it.” they even survive?

While the number of customers was down at ETC, the amount they were buying was up. Way up. “People used to buy about six ALMOST NORMAL items; now they’re buying around 30,” Chavez When I arrived at Findlay Market that April day, a sense of pre-shutdown life was still said. Her home deliveries had increased to palpable. Customers were buying goetta at the point where she’d hired 15 additional Eckerlin Meats and ham salad at Silverglades. workers, most of them laid off from OTR Jean Robert de Cavel’s French Crust was restaurants, breweries and tattoo parlors. doing takeout, and Dean’s Mediterranean Sales of salad blends and other greens had Imports was packing orders for customers. more than doubled. She was selling around I could have tricked myself into thinking 200 pounds of onions per week.

It all made sense, Chavez told me. At a we weren’t in the middle of a pandemic if it weren’t for the distances people were keeping time when walking through the automatic from each other and the face masks that doors of a big grocery store could elicit dread, a lot of folks were opting for safer, more ranged from homemade to medical grade.

My destination for the spinach I craved intimate shopping experiences that harkened was ETC Produce & Provisions, opened in back to a simpler time.

That theory was reinforced when I walked 2019 by Toncia Chavez and her husband, Estevan. The couple sells fresh produce grown into Madison’s grocery just across the street on their farm in Felicity, Ohio, as well as from ETC to pick up some chiles for a pozole products from other Ohio Valley farms and I planned to make later in the week. The place artisans. I asked if Toncia was there and was at capacity (only 10 people at a time) as two seconds later she came bounding out of shoppers made quick transactions for locally nowhere, exhibiting the smile and energy I made breads, pastries and gelato. Customers normally associate with store owners at grand were chatting about recipes and their own

40

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

wellbeing with the staff, wishing they could just unmask themselves and hug one another.

“I think we’ve returned to an almost Main Street mentality when it comes to food shopping,” agreed Len Bleh, owner of the Downtown butcher shop Avril-Bleh & Son, whose sausages, steaks and hot dogs are featured at many Cincinnati restaurants. And while those accounts had nearly vanished, Bleh was seeing unprecedented retail sales, up around 50% more than usual for this time of year. “People are home, they have kids at home and they are eating at home,” Bleh told me.

But if Avril-Bleh and Findlay Market tricked me into thinking things were normal, the rest of OTR knocked any sense of normalcy right to its knees. Hardly a soul could be found on Vine Street, where once-bustling spots like The Eagle, Taste of Belgium and Holtman’s Donuts were shuttered. And while chef Dan Wright was among the first to open on this section of Vine, his three restaurants (Pontiac, Abigail Street and Senate) were closed even for takeout, which made me worry that none of them were ever coming back.

And those closures have taken their toll on some of the city’s most beloved artisans.

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

were before COVID-19. “Are you going to make it?” I asked.

“Oh, yeah. We’re going to make it,” he said.

“We’ll definitely make it.”

Later that day, Matt Madison, owner of Madisono’s Gelato, told me business was down substantially. Like Bleh, a big part of his sales were to local restaurants and coffee shops. Unlike Bleh, his product is more a luxury than a need. Restaurant customers had stopped placing orders. “I knew we’d have fewer calls, but we didn’t expect zero,” he said. Still, retail sales of his gelato—sold at independent grocery stores, as well as Kroger and Whole Foods—were up 10% over last year, he told me. A good sign of customer loyalty, but not nearly enough to make up for his wholesale losses. Madison was also wondering what Ohio’s appetite for premium ice creams and gelatos would be once the quarantine was over.

Just when it seemed local food was gaining momentum, everything suddenly changed.

“We were just starting to feel real traction,” said Andrea Siefring-Robbins, who, along with her husband, Scott Robbins, owns Urban Stead in Evanston. The two-yearold company’s cheddars, goudas and other cheeses are made on premises in a large tasting room and are served at Cincinnati’s most popular restaurants. “Wholesale was big

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

for us,” Siefring-Robbins said, adding that they were just starting to sell their cheeses to restaurants outside the Ohio Valley in Cleveland, Nashville and beyond.

After losing their wholesale business, closing the tasting room and laying off their entire staff, the couple had come up with a plan to keep their company on life support. The first step was altering their business model from wholesale to curbside retail. Working with local producers such as Urbana Coffee, Indian Creek Creamery, Hungry Noodle, Allez Bakery and TS Farms in New Vienna, Ohio, they started selling produce, meats and pantry staples to neighborhood residents. “In Evanston, we are in a food desert,” SiefringRobbins said. “I’ve always wanted to offer a greater variety of products, and this has been an opportunity to see what people want and to see what our ability is to get it to them.

And I’ve tried not to do significant markups, usually just a dollar. I knew people would support us initially but I knew our staying power would be longer if we had a bigger variety of products.”

Scott Robbins told me it’ll take a year and a half to two years to get back to where they

MEANWHILE, ON THE FARM …

Over in North Bend, Ohio, Richard Stewart had big plans for Carriage House Farm.

Though his family had run the farm since 1855, he was taking it into the modern age.

The farm’s produce had become a favorite among the city’s new generation of chefs. A new outbuilding, designed to host chef-driven dinners and house Stewart’s burgeoning MadHouse Vinegar Company, was nearly complete. And he was starting to level a landfill behind the building to serve as a campground. Ninety percent of Carriage House’s income was wholesale to chefs in the Ohio River valley, and Stewart and his partner, Justin Dean, were working on distributing their distinctive vinegars to both Kroger and Whole Foods.

“Then COVID-19 happened and we realized we can’t do any of that this year,” Stewart said. But like most small farmers, Stewart knows how to think on his feet. Realizing the on-farm dinners weren’t going to happen, he connected with Curtis Chase, owner of Chloe’s Eatery, a mobile restaurant that serves fried chicken sandwiches, crinkle fries and gourmet hot dogs. “I said, rather than do high-end dinners, let’s go with a food truck,” Stewart said. “It’s simpler, and Curtis is very local food-minded.”

Stewart also refocused on the farm stand, expanding sales from weekends to weekdays.

Along with produce grown at Carriage House, they are selling meats from other local farms and artisan products, boosting business exponentially. Stewart told me his retail sales were almost eclipsing his wholesale numbers, and his community supported agriculture program was looking good with 68 members.

Carriage House had also become a retreat for unemployed restaurant workers looking for a place to get away from their houses, breathe some fresh air and figure out what they’ll do once this is all over. “We told them if they need a place to come, just to walk around and think, they could come here,” Stewart said.

Foxhole Farm in Brookville, Ohio, which sells its produce to dozens of restaurants and markets in the greater Dayton area, also had to rethink its strategy. Samantha Wickham,

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who runs the farm with her husband, Rich, said that’s par for the course for small farmers.

“While we had to shuffle how we channeled our produce to customers, we have more interest than ever in our produce,” she said via email. “Small businesses are capable of gritting it out and turning their business models on a dime to adapt to the curveballs thrown our way. Just like our restaurants, coffee shops and other retail businesses are doing, we are riding the wave. And it really feels as if we are bolstered by the collective ‘hang in there’ energy of the businesses and people of Dayton.”

A NEW HOPE What struck me in reporting this story was the prevailing sense of optimism most of the region’s food community expressed, not to mention the compassion extended to each other. “Personally, I feel good,” Matt Madison told me, despite the near decimation of his wholesale business. “We have a leg of our business that is still going strong, and we are grateful people are buying our pints. We are lucky enough that our business is still functioning. I feel for our restaurant clients, the ones who are completely shut down. I feel for the dishwashers and the prep cooks, all of those people who are out of work. They have so many things affecting them: renewing liquor licenses and the thousands of dollars it will take to restock and reopen. The one thing I do know is that this is a strong community with a lot of support. We’re not sure what the recipe for success will be, but there are a lot of people out there who want them to succeed.”

Siefring-Robbins said COVID-19 has deepened the relationship between food businesses and their customers in unexpected ways. “Two or three weeks ago, we were putting together groceries for our team,” she said. “A customer came in and paid for all of them in the form of a tip, then she just left.

One of the bright spots of this whole thing is that it makes you realize that people are really, really good.”

That goodness isn’t just between artisans and their customers, either. It’s also shared among producers and the restaurants they serve. Bleh, for instance, was trying to make sure his restaurant clients stay in business by letting some defer payment on past-due bills and allow them to pay based on whatever they were making on carryout. “If they had

42

10 invoices for that month, pay me when you reopen. In the meantime, just keep doing as well as you can.”

Even as they faced their own financial challenges, the Ohio Valley’s chefs and restaurant workers were doing all they could to help others—from economically disadvantaged neighbors to hospital workers putting their lives on the line every day. Owner Bob Davis opened the huge kitchen in his Blue Ash restaurant Firehouse Grill to Suzy DeYoung’s nonprofit food-rescue effort La Soupe.

Gordon Food Service and Home City Ice provided refrigeration; Rhinegeist Brewery lent delivery trucks. La Soupe also launched a Community Kitchen Program through which restaurants such as Taste of Belgium, Kroger Innovation Kitchen and Sleepy Bee opened for chefs to prepare food for distribution through Cincinnati Public Schools.

Jose Salazar was also assisting the community’s extended family of out-of-work chefs, servers, bussers and dishwashers. While his Downtown place, Mita’s, was closed during the shutdown, volunteers used the space to assemble free meals for unemployed hospitality workers as part of Louisville chef Edward

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

Lee’s LEE Initiative. “We do about 200 of them a day, and 90% of the food is donated,” Salazar said. Throughout the crisis, countless other restaurants have provided free meals for healthcare workers, neighborhood kids and others in need.

SIGNS OF LIFE Stopping by Sacred Beast in early May, it hit me again how hard the city’s food community has had to work, retool and rethink their business plans in order to survive. Just after the quarantine began, owners Jeremy and Bridget Lieb changed up their carryout game by offering “Beast Box” meals and selling pantry items in a mini grocery. When I stopped in to pick up a Beast Box for my family, Lieb told me he’d just ordered plexiglass so he could install dividers between booths to keep customers as safe as possible when they returned. As I waited for my food, I overheard Bridget on a call with Congressman Steve Chabot to discuss the Paycheck Protection Program. Their son sat at a booth doing his schoolwork. “In a way, I’m glad my kids get to see us working so hard to keep this business going, that they get to see how much

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

this place means to us,” Lieb said, his voice cracking beneath his mask.

Walking back to my car I noticed a tent in front of Pontiac, reassuring me that Dan Wright wasn’t going anywhere. I didn’t need any more food, but I figured I’d support him by picking up a couple dozen smoked wings and dropping them off at a friend’s house. Waiting for my order, I noticed that City Bird and Pepp & Dolores had recently reopened for carryout, too. Things were starting to percolate, but no one knew what the future held. Maybe when this is published in July, we’ll have a better idea.

Driving home, I thought of Jose Salazar packing up those free dinners, of Richard Stewart staring out at his farmland and wondering what comes next, of Andrea Siefring-Robbins and Scott Robbins holding onto hope as they made batches of cheddar in Evanston. While my mood was still a little gloomy, my thoughts quickly turned to how I was happy that I moved back here. After talking to all of these people, I truly believed the best was yet to come. That we would find our groove again. That the Ohio Valley would be the success story we always hoped it would be. n

Keith Pandolfi is a James Beard Awardwinning writer, editor and content strategist with more than 25 years of experience. Prior to returning to his hometown of Cincinnati, he worked on the editorial staffs for Saveur and Serious Eats.

Tine Hofmann was born and raised in Germany but calls Newport, Kentucky, her second home. Food photography is one of her big passions. “Food was such a big part of my upbringing,” she says. “It made me understand cultures and people better.”

TMPhotography.net

Help & Support FINANCIALLY SUPPORT FOOD BANKS & PANTRIES In the first two months of the pandemic, Freestore Foodbank experienced a 59% increase in food distribution meals across its 20-county service area in Ohio, northern Kentucky and southeastern Indiana. Donations are still urgently needed.

BUY FROM FARMERS & PRODUCERS Fortunately, the height of the growing season makes this easy. Join a community supported agriculture (CSA) farm-share; shop at local farmers’ markets, tailgate markets and the Findlay Market weekend farm shed; aim for spending 10% of your grocery dollars on local products.

SHARE YOUR GARDEN PRODUCE If you’re among the millions who are growing food this summer, you may have an overabundance of produce. Donate extras to local food pantries that accept homegrown items. Find out how at AmpleHarvest.org/food-growers/ DONATE TO HELP CHEFS, SERVERS AND FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY WORKERS Organizations including Louisville-based LEE Initiative (see page 23) and Indybased Equilibre Foundation (see page 8) are assisting hospitality workers.

CONTINUE TO PATRONIZE RESTAURANTS Keep up with those regular takeout orders and, if you’re comfortable, dine with them as they reopen. Continued restrictions on capacity make running a restaurant financially precarious.

HELP KIDS AND SENIORS GET ACCESS TO MEALS Across the Ohio Valley, schools and senior centers are hubs for essential food access. Seek out your area’s senior service agency or your local school district to find out what help they may need. Or support La Soupe’s mission at LaSoupe.org.

This issue’s Homegrown column made possible, in part, by the generous support of Deeper Roots Coffee.

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community recipes

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creative

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e’re heading into July, and Texas just “paused” its reopening plans. There is a COVID-19 “hotspot” in Southwestern Ohio, and restaurants across the country can’t determine when it’s safe to reopen dining rooms to the public—at any capacity. Given the current conditions we’ll be cooking at home for the foreseeable future—not that we haven’t enjoyed it!

At Edible HQs coast to coast we’ve been drawing inspiration from each other. With time on our hands to explore other regional and national culinary traditions comes this: Recipes for Home: An Edible Communities Cookbook.

We invite you to share these recipes from Edible magazines all across the U.S. and Canada, to cook in community with fellow local food aficionados. This interactive cookbook is perfect for using on a tablet or desktop computer, and it includes podcast episodes, culinary tips, and all the gorgeous photography you’ve come to expect from our fellow Edible magazines. (It’s available for purchase at EdibleCommunities. com/edible-cookbook/; proceeds support our collective efforts to champion local food.)

Here are a few old favorites for summer and a few new recipes for good measure.

Bean & Feta Spread It’s wonderful layered on slices of toasted country bread with tomatoes, mixed greens, homemade pickles and some sliced roasted turkey breast.

2 cups cooked beans, any variety 1 clove garlic, crushed 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 ounces goat or sheep feta Juice and zest of 1 lemon ½ cup fresh dill, coarsely chopped ¼ teaspoon sugar or honey Pinch of chili flakes ½ teaspoon ground coriander Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place all the ingredients in a food processor and blend to combine. Check for seasoning and add more salt or lemon juice if needed. Serve with sliced watermelon radishes, rainbow carrots, cucumber spears and toasted bread, or use in place of hummus on a sandwich.

edible boston Scan this code with your phone’s camera for a direct link to Recipes For Home.

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

by Sarah Blackburn / photo by Michael Piazza

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

47

Sunny Fettuccine

edible indy

Serves 2 When times are tough, there is nothing more comforting than a hearty pasta. It doesn’t take much to create a delicious pasta dish, and oftentimes less is more. Here Brooke and Jacob Town, proprietors of The Spoon Trade in Grover Beach, CA, share one of their favorite recipes using simple, easy-to-access ingredients. This bright dish is both cozy and joyful.

by Mary McClung & Jennifer L. Rubenstein

8 ounces fresh pasta 2 tablespoons butter ½ cup sweet corn kernels, cut off the cob ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese ½ cup Sun Gold or cherry tomatoes 5–6 sprigs tarragon {

Cook pasta to desired tenderness.

{

Melt butter in a sauté pan. Add corn and Parmesan cheese and sauté for 2 minutes.

{

Add cooked pasta to the pan and continue to sauté for an additional 1–2 minutes. Add tomatoes and sauté until tomatoes are slightly soft to the touch.

{

Garnish with tarragon sprigs.

edible san luis obispo

by Brooke & Jacob Town photo by Jennifer Olson

Preserve Your Herbs FLAT FREEZE {

Blanch. Blanching kills things that mold or degrade leaves, helping keep the bright green color when frozen. Here’s how:

{

Dip basil in boiling water until just wilted—no more!

{

Go immediately from the boiling water to an ice bath to stop the heating.

{

After blanching, pat leaves dry and cut them from the stems.

{

Lay in a single layer inside a sealable freezer bag and place in freezer. When winter blues hit, pop open bag, break off a chunk, add to food and feel the warm summer love in your heart.

FREEZE IN OIL {

Stem herbs and use whole leaves or chop them into pieces.

{

Place herbs into cube trays. Don’t fill more than ¾ of each cube with herbs; ⅔ full is a nice amount.

{

Pour your choice of olive oil, coconut oil or avocado oil into each cube until you see the herb/oil ratio you want to achieve.

{

Place the cube tray into the freezer until your nuggets of herbaceous goodness are completely frozen (probably overnight).

{

Pop the frozen cubes out of the tray and store in a sealable freezer bag for future use.

DRY

48

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

{

Tie bundles of heartier herbs (rosemary, thyme, sage, lavender) at the stems and hang them in a dry, warm place away from sunlight.

{

Drying can take one to four weeks. When dry, simply pack the herbs loosely in a storage bag and store them in that cool, dry spot … you know, the one in your rustic Provençe kitchen. These herbs can last up to a year.

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

Aguas Frescas

edible san diego

Spanish for “ fresh waters,” aguas frescas are satisfying and refreshing for guests of all ages.

by Miguel Valdez / photo by Olivia Hayo, styled by Gary McIntire

Blackberry-Lemongrass Serves 8–10 For the simple syrup: 1 stalk lemongrass ¾ cup agave ¾ cup water For the agua fresca: 4 cups blackberries (fresh or frozen) 10–14 cups water, divided ¼–½ cup fresh lime juice Pinch of salt {

Use a rolling pin or tenderizer to smash the lemongrass. Bring the agave and water to a boil in a small saucepan and add the lemongrass. Remove from heat and cool completely. Strain and discard the lemongrass.

{

Working in batches, combine the blackberries with 2–4 cups water in a blender and purée. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve or cheesecloth to remove seeds and pulp. Add the simple syrup to the strained juice and dilute with 8–10 cups water. At this point you can adjust the drink to your liking with lime juice, adding a pinch of salt and additional agave or water as desired. Serve over ice with sliced lemongrass and blackberries for garnish.

Carrot-Ginger

Watermelon-Jalapeño

Serves 6 6 large carrots, peeled and chopped 2 teaspoons chopped ginger ½ cup agave 7 cups water, divided 1 small bunch mint leaves Pinch of salt 1 red pepper, seeded and sliced, for garnish

Serves 10–12 For the simple syrup: 3 jalapeños, seeded and deveined 2 cups water 1 cup sugar 1 cup agave Pinch of salt

{

Combine carrots, ginger, agave and 3 cups water in a blender. Blend for 60 seconds, then strain through cheesecloth or a fine-mesh sieve. Do not push mixture through strainer to reduce pulp. Add the remaining 4 cups water, mint leaves and salt; stir well. Pour into glasses full of ice, garnish with red pepper slices and serve immediately (or refrigerate overnight to develop a more intense flavor).

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

For the agua fresca: 1 medium seedless watermelon, cut into small cubes 1 cup jalapeño simple syrup Juice of 2 limes 5 cups water 1 lemon, sliced, for garnish

{

Combine all of the simple syrup ingredients in a medium saucepan.

Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and cook for 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Set aside to cool.

{

Combine watermelon, jalapeño simple syrup, lime juice and water in a blender and blend for about 30 seconds. Do not strain. Pour into glasses full of ice, garnish with a lemon slice and serve immediately (or refrigerate for 30 minutes for a more intense flavor).

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

49

edible KENTUCKY

By Lindsey McClave, TheFarmerAndTheFoodie.com/the-show

Recipes for Beef Kofta & Veggie Kebabs with Tzatziki and Beef & Veggie Quesadillas with Pico de Gallo & CilantroLime Sour Cream at EdibleKentucky.com

Strip Steak with Balsamic Roasted Cherry Tomatoes and Pesto Serves 2 2 medium or 1 large (about 1 pound) Foxhollow Farm grass-fed strip steak 10 ounces cherry tomatoes 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ⅛ teaspoon black pepper Additional olive oil and kosher salt for finishing

Marinade

Pesto

2 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes 3 tablespoons olive oil ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper

1 ¼ 2 ¼

50

large bunch basil cup walnuts garlic cloves teaspoon red pepper flakes Juice of 1 lemon ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup olive oil ½ cup Parmesan cheese

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

{

Begin by whisking together all ingredients for the marinade in a bowl. Pat steaks dry. Place steaks in a zip-top bag and pour the marinade over top.

Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or up to 24. Remove from the fridge and bring to room temperature before cooking.

{

While steak is marinating, make the pesto. Place basil, walnuts, garlic, red pepper flakes, lemon juice, kosher salt and pepper in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the ingredients are well combined and evenly chopped.

Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spoon. With the blade running, slowly pour the olive oil through the food processor’s feed tube. Once pesto has thickened and become creamy, turn off the blade and stir in the Parmesan.

Taste pesto and add additional salt and pepper if preferred. Set aside. Pesto will last in the refrigerator for 1 week.

{

Preheat oven to 375°. Place tomatoes on a rimmed sheet pan and toss with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, kosher salt and pepper. Roast tomatoes for 15–20 minutes, until they begin to pop and blister. Remove from oven and set aside.

{

While tomatoes are roasting, warm a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat.

Add grapeseed oil and, once hot, add steak. Cook for 2 minutes, flip and cook for 2 additional minutes. Flip again, cooking for an additional 2 minutes. Flip 1 final time, cooking for a final 2 minutes. Remove from the pan to a plate and tent with foil. Allow the steak to rest for 10 minutes before slicing.

{

Spoon pesto onto a plate, top with sliced steak and pour roasted tomatoes over top. Season steak with kosher salt and drizzle with olive oil before serving.

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

Blueberry Galette Serves 6

Perfect for any summer fruit, this simple galette comes together quickly and gives the peak-season fruit center stage.

Dough 1¼ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup cold butter (1 stick), cut into small dice 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar ¼ cup ice-cold water {

In a food processor fitted with the multi-purpose blade, combine flour and salt and pulse to combine. Add butter and pulse until mixture looks like wet sand.

{

Combine apple cider vinegar with ice-cold water and add liquid mixture 1 tablespoon at a time while pulsing until dough just comes together, almost forming a ball. If the dough seems too dry, add more ice-cold water, 1 tablespoon at a time.

{

Filling 1 pint blueberries (or blackberries, strawberries, peaches, etc.), rinsed and patted dry 1 tablespoon lemon zest (about 1 lemon) 2 tablespoons lemon juice ¼ cup granulated sugar {

Remove dough from refrigerator and allow to warm up slightly while you make the filling. Preheat oven to 400°; line a baking sheet with parchment.

{

Combine blueberries (or other fruit), lemon zest, lemon juice and sugar and stir together so fruit is well coated.

{

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to about ¼-inch thickness. It’s OK if it’s not a perfect circle. Place dough on prepared baking sheet.

{

Turn out filling into the center of the dough and spread fruit in a single layer, leaving about 3 inches of dough around the edges of the filling. Carefully fold the dough in toward the center, overlapping in areas.

{

Bake for 20–30 minutes, checking frequently, until filling is bubbling and pastry is golden brown. Allow to cool and serve.

Wonderful warm or at room temperature.

Turn out dough onto plastic wrap and form a disc, carefully pushing dough together while wrapping it. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.

edible kentucky

by Jessica Kingsley @louisville_locavore on Instagram

Recipes for Eggplant Meatballs, Summer Vegetable Cobbler and Smoky Corn Jalapeno Dip at EdibleKentucky.com

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

51

indiana pork locally raised beef

est 1894

homemade sausages & deli meats

find us at

Dorothy Lane Jungle Jim’s & Order Online us shipping or local pick-up

(513) 241-2433 33 East Court Street, Cincinnati, Ohio 45202 www.avril-blehmeats.com

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We’re awakening taste buds to the cuisines of the world—one bite, one meal, one event at a time.

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REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

Stop in for our Famous Olde Tyme Frozen Custard, locally baked treats, summer fruits & veggies, annuals, perennials, herbs for the garden, and now beer and wine, too!

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Findlay Market 1801 Race St Cincinnati, Oh 45202

info@kofinasoliveoil.com order online

kofinasoliveoil.com

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

53

EAT DRINK CATER LOCAL GUIDE

Oakley Wines 4011 Allston St., Oakley OakleyWines.com

Out of Thyme Catering 11915 Montgomery Rd. Montgomery

OutOfThymeChef.com

PostMark

3410 Telford St., Clifton

Postmark.restaurant

G R E ATE R CINCINNATI

Red Feather Larder at Dutch’s 3378 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park

20 Brix

101 Main St., Milford 20Brix.com

BrewRiver

Creole Kitchen: 4632 Eastern Ave., East End @ Sonder Brewing: 8584 Duke Blvd., Mason BrewRiverGastropub.com

Casa Figueroa 6112 Montgomery Rd. Pleasant Ridge CasaFig.com

RedFeatherKitchen.com

Rooted Juicery & Kitchen

Oakley, Mariemont, Downtown RootedJuicery.com

Salazar

1401 Republic St. Over-the-Rhine

SalazarCincinnati.com

The Golden Lamb 27 S. Broadway St., Lebanon GoldenLamb.com

Fireside Pizza 773 E. McMillan St. Walnut Hills

G R E ATE R DAY T O N

FireSidePizzaWalnutHills.com

Fond: Lunch & Deli 10764 Montgomery Rd. Montgomery FondCincinnati.com

Fork and Pie Bakery 6836 Main St., Newtown

BakeryCincinnati.com

Goose + Elder 1800 Race St. Findlay Market District

609 Walnut St., Downtown

BouquetRestaurant.com

Ciao Ristorante

Farmstand Market & Cafe

CiaoLouisville.com

519 Main St. Covington

OldScratchPizza.com

Roost Modern Italian 524 E. Fifth St., Dayton RoostDayton.com

1201 Payne St.

Couvillion

TheFarmstandMarket.com

EatCouvillion.com

Lula’s Catering

Eiderdown

LulasForLunch.com

Eiderdown-Gtown.com

Taylor Mill

1318 McHenry St.

983 Goss Ave.

Fat Lamb

LE XING T O N & TH E BLU E G R A S S Coles 735 Main 735 E. Main St., Lexington Coles735Main.com

Epping’s on Eastside, Poppy & Olive 264 Walton Ave., Lexington EppingsOnEastside.com PoppyAndOliveLex.com

Heirloom

125 Main St., Midway

MeadowlarkRestaurant.com

812 S. Patterson Blvd., Dayton 440 Miamisburg Centerville Rd., Centerville

BlueDogBakeryAndCafe.com

9914 Old Union Rd. Union

Sage Garden Cafe at Wilson Nurseries

Old Scratch Pizza

Blue Dog Bakery 2868 Frankfort Ave.

Meadowlark

5531 Far Hills Ave., Dayton

LO U I S V ILLE

Bouquet

HeirloomMidway.com

3690 East-West Connector Rte. 676 Frankfort WilsonNurseriesKY.com/ sage-garden-cafe

2011 Grinstead Dr.

FatLambLouisville.com

Four Pegs Beer Lounge 1053 Goss Ave.

Facebook.com/fourpegsbeerlounge

Goodwood Brewing 636 E. Main St.

Goodwood.beer

Harvest

624 E. Market St.

HarvestLouisville.com

Mayan Street Food at Gravely Brewing 514 Baxter Ave.

TheMayanCafe.com/food-truck

Proof on Main 702 W. Main St.

ProofOnMain.com

Woke Junk Food Vegan

Red Hog Local Craft Butcher

Facebook.com/wokejunkfoodvegan

RedHogArtisanMeat.com

501 W. Sixth St., Lexington

2622 Frankfort Ave.

Wheat Penny Oven

Volare Italian Ristorante

WheatPennyDayton.com

Volare-Restaurant.com

GooseAndElder.com

Metropole

NO R TH E R N KE NT U CK Y

515 Wayne Ave., Dayton

2300 Frankfort Ave.

MetropoleOnWalnut.com

Mita’s

Wiltshire Pantry Bakery & Cafe

Mitas.co

WiltshirePantry.com

501 Race St., Downtown

54

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

901 Barrett Ave.

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

SO U TH E R N IN D IANA Mesa | A Collaborative Kitchen 216 Pearl St., New Albany MesaChefs.com

Pints & Union

114 E. Market St., New Albany PintsAndUnion.com

Portage House 117 E. Riverside Dr. Jeffersonville

EatPortageHouse.com

Red Yeti 256 Spring St. Jeffersonville

RedYetiJeff.com

Starlight Cafe at Huber’s Orchard, Winery & Vineyards 19816 Huber Rd., Borden HuberWinery.com

Mayasari Indonesian Grill

I N DY & CE NTR AL I N D IANA

6390 S. State Road 135 Nashville

213 N. Broadway St. Greensburg

StoryInn.com

MayasariGrill.com

Wheelers Cafe & Market 25625 IN-37 Atlanta

Revery

Grindstone Public House

ReveryGreenwood.com

GrindstonePublicHouse.com

299 W. Main St. Greenwood

Mercantile37.com

Anyetsang Little Tibet Restaurant 415 E. Fourth St. Bloomington

Anyetsang.com

DeLullo’s Trattoria 230 W. Jackson St. Cicero

DeLullosItalian.com

Henry Social Club 423 Washington St. Columbus

HenrySocialClub.com

Four Day Ray FourDayRay.com

The HC Tavern

Golfo Di Napoli Dairy

RoostersIndy.com

GolfoDiNapoliDairy.com

888 Massachusetts Ave. Indianapolis

AtTheHC.com

7916 S. Warren Rd. Warren

The Garden Table

The Homestead

TheGardenTable.com

HomesteadButtery.com

342 Massachusetts Ave. Indianapolis

1185 Sagamore Pkwy. W. West Lafayette

St. Elmo Steakhouse

The Rail

StElmos.com

RailRestaurantAndBar.com

127 S. Illinois St. Indianapolis

211 Park St. Westfield

Hard Truth Hills

Salty Cowboy

HardTruthHills.com

SaltyCowboyTequileria.com

55 E. Oak St. Zionsville

The Original

Traders Point Creamery

BigWoodsRestaurants.com

TradersPointCreamery.com

60 Molly Ln. Nashville

9709 E. 116th St. Fishers

101 N. 10th St. Noblesville

Rooster’s Kitchen

418 Old State Road 46 Nashville

11671 Lantern Rd. Fishers

S P O N S O R E D by

Story Inn

S P O N S O R E D by

9101 Moore Rd. Zionsville

S P O N S O R E D by

CircleBev.com The highest-quality Wagyu marbled beef NATUR ALLY R AISED ON OHIO FARMS

SUMMER 2020 | REGIONAL EDITION

www.weisenberger.com

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

ADDING $10

changes the outlook The demand for local affordable, fresh and healthy foods has grown during the covid-19 pandemic … but is this current trend the whole iceberg or just the tip?

The 2020 World Population Review shows that Kentucky, Indiana and Ohio have 8,936,574 households. Imagine for a moment what growing impact we could have this year: What if every household in the three states was able to either start to spend or increase spending on regionally grown products by just $10 per week for the next 16 weeks, taking us through the heart of the harvest season? Apply this thinking to any or all food distribution channels : farmers’ markets, CSAs, grocery stores, home delivery services, restaurants.

The impact on our farmers and local food businesses would be tremendous: 8,936,574 households × $10 × 16 weeks = $1,429,851,840!

It bears repeating: The impact on our farmers and local food businesses would be tremendous — with an added multiplier effect — benefiting our economy, taste buds, health and more.

Think about it.

8,936,574 x $10 x 16 $1,429,851,840 “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has.”

— Margaret Mead, anthropologist 56

edible kentucky, indy & ohio valley

REGIONAL EDITION | SUMMER 2020

100 Proof

Bottled In Bond

Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Sweet Mash

6 YEAR

KY Proud Grains Low Barrel Proof Entry Non Chill-filtered

5 YEAR

Visit for Tours Tastings Cocktails

Danville, KY / WildernessTrailKY.com Wilderness Trail Distillery encourages you to sip responsibly

Send the Gift of Great Food

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From the award-winning gourmet grocer, Dorothy Lane Market.

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