Edible Indy Winter 2021 | No. 42

no. 42 | winter 2021

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MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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s n o i iv s

EAT | DRINK | EXPLORE

Stories from Indiana & Beyond

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SERVING HOLIDAY CHEER

BY THE GLASS

Available at a local grocery or liquor store near you.

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Winter 2021

Please Enjoy Responsibly

CONTENTS

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FEATURES 6 BORN WITH A SPATULA IN HAND Mother and daughter Carrie and Eva Abbott share a passion for pastries

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12 A PASTRY STAR GROWS IN INDY Zoë Taylor inspires with inventive baking at home

40 WE ARE WHAT WE EAT Making decisions with the climate crisis in mind

DEPARTMENTS 22 NOSH Salamat Cookies bring a taste of the Philippines to Indiana.

28 TIDBITS Home Cooks Essentials: 6 must-have kitchen tools we love

30 SPOTLIGHT Napa Valley Dreams: Somnium is a new journey for Danica Patrick

48 LAST BITE

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Perfect for Cookies: Masala Chai

RECIPES 18 Vinegar-Roasted Beet & Horseradish Flammkuchen 20 Sweet Potato Cranberry Cake with Kefir Cream Cheese Frosting, Chocolate & Salty Pecans

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26 White Chocolate Oatmeal Mango Cookies COVER photography: Elizabeth Hannah Studios featuring Zoë Taylor’s Sweet Potato Cranberry Cake with Kefir Cream Cheese Frosting, Chocolate & Salty Pecans. See page 18 for recipe.

Edible Indy + Indy Maven’s Provisions Gift Guide on page 34

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ore than 22 million pages of content in 403,000+ printed magazines, 31 issues distributed throughout Central Indiana, over 33,000 followers and hundreds of thousands of people reached. This is what our Edible Indy team has accomplished over the last eight years of producing quarterly publications.

What started out as a new and exciting opportunity to build on supporting local food has turned into a journey much deeper and more emotional than we ever expected.

My urban husband and children became educated about edible landscaping; the joy, pain and sometimes humor of raising chickens and roosters; the failures and successes of growing and harvesting food for our family; and the experience of traveling to off-the-beaten-path places all over the country. All these provided us with our own stories to tell.

In these magazines we have explored mushroom and goat farming, alpaca yoga, the making of elk bacon, head-to-tail no-waste butchering, how to make your own charcoal, what it takes to be a healthy linebacker for the Indianapolis Colts, tales of foraging wild weeds in the backyard and making unfamiliar yet delightful dishes at home to wow the foodies in your life. We have told stories that make you smile, stories that make you think and even stories that resonate deep within your heart and soul.

We have told you stories with the hope and honor you will remember and share them with those around you. That they make an impact in your ideology of community, love and kindness. We have shared our happiness as well as our pain publicly in a deliberate manner to humanize who we are and how our choices impact people near and far. We have advocated for those who need it and sometimes for those who don’t. We have stood strong against the disfunction of the world and the harm it does to the generations around us—and we have taken lashings for it a time or two.

Our intention has always been to make a positive impact, big or small, by owning Edible Indy. In choosing to work with some of the most brilliant writers, photographers, artists and editors, we have kept to our intention. Positive influence brings positive light. We may not always see it day to day, but those times when we do see it last an eternity in my heart.

I want to take a moment to give thanks to my adoring husband, Jeff, and my daughters Wrigley and Mara for being a part of this ride. Without your encouragement, love and dedication “the zoo” we purchased eight years ago would not be as fulfilling as it has been. My family and close friends who have listened to me cry, laugh and be crazy all these years, I am indebted to you. To my dear friends Francine, Colleen and Shauna who doubled as my managing editors, Cheryl my amazing designer, and Doug the best copy editor ever: You all have inspired me to reach down into my soul to be the best I could be and to strive to deliver issues of which I am unbelievably proud. All of our writers, photographers and artists who have given your time, energy and support throughout these years with enthusiasm: You are the foundation of why this publication is part of my heart. And to all of the partners over the year who have fostered us with your support of advertising and sponsorship which has allowed us to be storytellers and creators: thank you.

I am grateful for the friends I have made along the way, the people who have touched my life in ways they may not even know, those who have made me look deeper at why the interrelation between our community, our loved ones, the earth is not to be taken lightly but rather embraced. Our stories of light outweigh the dark. This Edible community has given me so much over the years. With this I close and say, ciao ciao. We must take a beat—a pause, if you will—until the next rabble rousers show up to champion this publication and take it to greater heights. We hope you have enjoyed the journey as much as we have, for the next one will be even more long and winding. We are grateful, humbled and honored.

With love and ggratitude,

Jennifer and Jeff Rubenstein, Publishers

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PUBLISHER Rubenstein Hills LLC EDITOR IN CHIEF Jennifer Rubenstein jennifer@edibleindy.com CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Jeff Rubenstein MANAGING EDITOR Francine Spiering COPY EDITOR Doug Adrianson DESIGN Cheryl Koehler SALES jennifer@edibleindy.com CONTACT US Have a story you’d like to see featured? Send us your ideas. editor@edibleindy.com EDIBLE INDY PO Box 155 Zionsville, IN 46077 p. 260.438.9148 SUBSCRIBE Edible Indy is published four times per year. Subscriptions are $32 and available at EdibleIndy.com EDIBLE INDY

PO Box 155 Zionsville, IN 46077 p. 260.438.9148 Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, then you probably have not had enough wine with your healthy food! Please accept our sincere apologies and, if it’s important, please notify us. Thank you. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2021 all rights reserved.

Edible Indy Seeks New Ownership Over the past eight years we have grown Edible Indy in ways that have championed and nourished the local food movement in Central Indiana.

We have not only developed a print publication making an impact on people’s lives, but we have created a print, digital and social media company that has allowed Edible Indy to truly work with connecting our community both with our consumers and businesses throughout the state and beyond.

We are looking for new hands and hearts to carry on, elevate and grow the business in new and exciting ways. As we grow older, situations shift, priorities change and it is now the time for us to find someone ambitious and excited to step into the ownership of this successful and growing publication.

If you are interested in learning more about Edible Indy or stepping into the ownership role, please reach out to us. Email Jennifer Rubenstein at jennifer@edibleindy.com.

Thank you for all the years you have spent with us, Jennifer & Jeff Rubenstein

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Born With a Spatula in Hand Baking Abbotts share passion for pastries words: Julie Yates | photography: Faith Blackwell

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e inherit many things from our parents. Outward appearance, musical ability or athletic prowess are a few examples. Sharing a love of certain activities comes to mind as well. In 14-year-old Eva Abbottಬs life, her mother is an important influence on her exceptional ability and adventurous attitude regarding baking.

Eva was a toddler when she began baking with her mother, Carrie Abbott, founder and CEO of Newfangled Confections and owner of The Best Chocolate in Town.

Eva absorbed and now reflects Carrie’s passion for the sweet side of the culinary world and is known as a baking prodigy within the Indianapolis pastry scene. Her curiosity spurs her to develop innovative creations and, like her mom, Eva is not afraid of making mistakes.

“My older daughter, Maddie, often jokes that her sister ‘was born with a spatula in her hand,’” their mother says. “I have always baked and it’s hard for me to remember a time when Eva wasn’t baking with me. She got serious at age 9, when she entered a kids’ baking contest. She had to submit complicated items like crème puffs, layer cakes, pies and tarts—not ordinary home-baked goods like cookies and brownies. She dug in and started baking away. She created about 10 to 15 different baked goods and even submitted photos and video. She entered the contest five years in a row,” Carrie says.

“Due to the kind nature of Indianapolis, at 11 and 12 years old, she had the occasion to do a bit of staging, which is shadowing another chef. This gave her the opportunity to work with Hattie McDaniel, who was at the time executive pastry chef at Vida, a Cunningham Group restaurant, and Gallery Pastry Shop. Before anyone offers something like that, they have to know the person is capable. Eva can get a job whenever she is at the point of wanting one,” says Carrie.

Freedom to Create For Eva, baking is a creative process in which she finds selfexpression while trying out new recipes. She loves to make desserts and treats for fun. To avoid the boredom that comes with repetition, Eva tests things several ways. Channeling her interest in producing healthier results, she investigates how using different types of flours affects the outcome.

Lucky friends and neighbors are the happy recipients when there happens to be an extra batch or two.

One of Newfangled Confections’ signature products is Frittle, an award-winning hometown favorite. The concoction is an addicting cross between fudge and brittle. The business prides itself on giving a modern twist to old-fashioned favorites and the development of Frittle was a serendipitous experience. It was the outcome of experimenting 6 6

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with riffs off of a wedding reception dessert Carrie had created.

The result was deemed absolutely delicious and has become an Indy favorite that has gone beyond local. It can be found in over 100 retail locations such as Target, Barnes and Noble, World Market, Fresh Thyme, Market District, Joann Fabrics and Kroger.

Newfangled Confections acquired The Best Chocolates in Town in 2020. Products include handcrafted truffles, dipped cookies, bars, chocolate truffle pies and toffee. Carrie’s artistic creativity shines through; the sweets are a treat for the eyes as well as being incredibly delectable. Offerings are never static but continue to evolve and rotate with variations of flavors and textures.

Baking as a Way to Give Back

Eva Abbott

Over the years, Evaಬs repertoire of baked goods has increased in scope and difficulty. Early on, during her shadowing experiences, she was exposed to complicated French pastries and involved techniques. Likewise, she has executed production of items on a large scale. Eva exhibits her momಬs inquisitive spirit and resourceful nature. Carrie encourages her to fearlessly try out new concepts and flavors—and not be daunted about the consequences.

A big opportunity to showcase her evolved skills as a pastry chef came when Eva was asked to create the plated dessert part of a farm dinner, a fundraising activity for the Patachou Foundation.

These monthly dinners raise money to fund the organization, whose mission is fight hunger from many different angles. A farming operation allows food to be grown right outside the teaching kitchen door. Over 1,000 kid-friendly meals are supplied each week to eight different schools and community centers.

During the summer, a six-week paid Food Fellowship workforce program enables high school students recruited from Arsenal Tech and George Washington to gain career skills such as urban farming practices, cooking, hospitality, career-readiness and communication techniques as well as finance and business basics. Customer service principles are learned while working at the foundation’s coffee shop, Foundation Coffee Company.

Each participant earns a ServSafe certificate, which makes them immediately employable.

“The theme of the dinner was commensality, the joy and practice of sharing a meal. Eva joined Chef Oya Woodruff of The Trap, a seafood restaurant, and Twinkle VanWinkle, Patachou Foundation’s executive chef, in preparing the dinner, which edibleINDY.com edibleINDY.com

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served 50 people. Each chef made something different and Eva’s Sweet Tea Cake was a real crowd-pleaser.

“I’ve been watching Eva for a while and knew she had done some big production work,” says Chef VanWinkle.

“I thought this would be a good chance to display her natural talent. She loves baking and although her mom is a trained culinary professional herself, Eva has independently pursued this.”

Eva’s idea was to use sweet tea in a different way. Her Sweet Tea Cake featured a sweet tea sauce with a pecan tuile, a crunchy bit of decoration made from melted sugar and nuts, then baked into a shape. Following savory dishes such as a show-stopping plate of gorgeous tomatoes, gazpacho and farm-fresh salad made from ingredients grown right on the property, the final course that paid homage to sweet tea was the perfect choice. It’s a fine example of how she approaches her bakes. Says Eva: “Baking and sharing, to me, is a sense of unity.”

Finding Joy in Making Others Happy Eva’s signature go-to is her chocolate cake—but she delights in inventing variations. She makes a version that is vegan and gluten free. Currently, she’s into lemons, experimenting with lemon bars. Truffles and berries are other ingredients she is using in recipes she is developing.

In most ways, the younger Abbott is a typical teenager.

When she’s not baking, Eva pursues other interests.

She’s an avid reader and advocates wellness and fitness, always using high-quality foodstuffs and ingredients in her baking. Since becoming a cheerleader for Heritage Christian School, she has had to learn when to say no to baking projects when her life becomes too busy.

“Eva likes to bake because she knows how happy it makes people feel; she can make something that brightens their day. She works with a local business owner to make monthly birthday treats for his employees. I give her a lot of encouragement to try new things and tell her it’s alright to mess up. For the Patachou Foundation dinner she tested out four versions of her creation before she knew what she wanted to do. As long as she’s still learning and enjoying it, I’m glad to see her stay on this path.

However, I’d like to see her leave some future options open,” says Carrie.

Left Carrie Abbott, right Eva Abbott

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Eva’s 17-year-old sister, Maddie, enjoys assisting in the kitchen, but along with her dad, Jake Abbott, she’s content with sampling the resulting goodies. Her family feels baking has given Eva confidence to learn new things and an avenue to make new friends. They feel she is lucky to have a passion.

“I graduated with a tourism degree, but I loved the food side of hospitality,” says Carrie. “I was classically trained as a pastry chef and through a catering job, I realized the dessert side of it made me feel energized and it became a real passion. Right now, for the time being, baking is a passion for Eva. It’s wild to see; it’s like she is a mini-me.”

“I really hope the best for her,” adds Chef VanWinkle. “I’m glad she is getting some deserved recognition. She is an intentional and thoughtful person who is dedicated and passionate about her craft.”

The Best Chocolate in Town pop-up is in The Fashion Mall at Keystone, 8702 Keystone Crossing in Indianapolis; Newfangled Confections is headquartered at 1340 N. Illinois St. in Indianapolis. To order products visit NewfangledConfections.com.

Visit ThePatachouFoundation.org to learn more about their mission.

Julie Yates is a freelance writer from Noblesville. She enjoys sharing the stories of individuals who pursue culinary-related experiences. View her travel and cooking experiences on Instagram @YatesYummies.

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A Pastry Star Grows in Indy How Zoë Taylor Inspires Midwest Class and Inventive Baking words: Brian Garrido | photography: Elizabeth Hannah

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ow does one meet the Indianapolis baking star singled out by our nation’s most revered food publications in their annual “Best New Restaurant” issue? Anxiously. While a global pandemic still courses through the country, I suggested meeting at Garfield Park’s farmers market on a hot, Saturday in August. Pastry chef Zoë Taylor, who in 2015 put a gluten-free honey whey cake recipe in Bon Appétit, and Indy on the culinary map, happens to be seven-months pregnant, and I begin to feel, frankly, stupid.

After texting each other our rendezvous point, Taylor and her belly—along with partner, Josh Kline; their 3-year-old son, Guy; and her mother, Guyanne—traipse up to meet me. Hair, the color of coffee with streaks of cream, arranged like a buttercream floret on her head, and wearing a tank shift dress, she appears as though she emerged out of a walk-in fridge, relaxed and refreshed. I offer my regrets for thinking the crowded location was a clever idea. Still, she states she feels good about gathering outside. From her response I gather the accolades from her cooking haven’t touched her. Her rise to the yeasty top seems like a reenactment of Lady Gaga’s A Star is Born. In her case, Taylor debuted on a local stage, the much-lauded Milktooth, becoming a culinary celebrity in the process.

Looking for a place where we can speak without noise, she suggests sitting on a knoll underneath a shady tree. We meander over to the Sunken Garden at the conservatory and find a place there. As we stroll, she presents a soothing demeanor. I realize it’s how she navigated the public attention in local food media and her social media posts following an abrupt termination for both her and Kline from Milktooth.

Taylor’s manifestations defy dessert categories. At one of her gatherings, she created a sweet-and-sour textural masterpiece by topping a crusty cinnamon roll with kefir cream cheese frosting and rhubarb preserves.

She traverses the grass, mud and crowds without a dewy rivulet, with a baby bump. Yeah, she is a calm AF, bad-ass baking mother.

We settle into a couple chairs overlooking serene summer blooms from the public terrace, Taylor notes, “Termination from Milktooth was the best thing that could have ever happened to us.” She shrugs. Story over.

She moved on and launched a pop-up called Sourpuss Bakes as the world inches out of a global health crisis. These are not simple items like a cupcake with swirled buttercream, a doughnut topped with sprinkles, or even a chocolate layer cake drizzled with ganache. Taylor’s manifestations defy dessert categories. At one of her gatherings, she created a sweet-and-sour textural masterpiece by topping a crusty cinnamon roll with kefir cream cheese frosting and rhubarb preserves.

Born in Dallas, Texas, and raised with parents in broadcast and commercial advertising, Taylor’s upbringing was a transient process throughout the United States. Her mother ran television stations, and her father worked in several marketing agencies. During it all, her parents remained big on family meals. “Both my parents were avid cooks,” remembers Taylor. “My dad would open up a Julia Child cookbook at 7:30 (in the evening), and we wouldn’t eat until 10:30. We were starving by the time we ate, but it was always delicious. My mother can, just like, look into a pantry, find three random things and make something tasty.”

While attending college at the University of Wisconsin, Green Bay, she worked at a local coffee shop, “a crunchy granola place,” she says. “One day, I turned to the owners—great people—and asked if I could maybe

Opposite: Zoë Taylor edibleINDY.com

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bake, saving them money. At the time, we were getting goods from a large corporate food distributor. We tried, and it worked. I baked through college.”

One semester, she went to Paris since she was acquiring a bachelor’s in French and English literature (“Not the most employment-inducing,” she wryly comments). She lived in the 13th Arrondissement, commonly referred to as the Asian Quarter, home to many immigrants. “While there, I found myself eating a lot and trying different things.” Her father, though, became ill, and she returned to the States. After his untimely death, she finished school but resumed her culinary education in the kitchen, doling out well-crafted bakery goods and caffeinated beverages to university students.

“Because of my home life and [because I enjoyed] being in the kitchen, it felt like everything fell into place,” she says.

“The owners were very particular about what the customers wanted. They were getting this product from [the wholesaler].

I tried to make homemade versions, and then, kind of once I got comfortable with copying [the products], it morphed into something else.”

While we chat, I perceive that Taylor never had any formal training. A degree in making puff pastry isn’t a necessity and self-taught cooks abound. Culinary school provides fundamental, formal training in specific dessert-making techniques such as forming chocolate from cocoa nibs to doughs from various flours such as almond, corn, or rice.

Taylor was born a gifted baker.

“I never felt it was a calling, per se,” she says. “I feel like it was all just pieces falling together. I felt really comfortable in a kitchen because of my home life. And the job was my first baking opportunity and there was a lot of trust. It was a fortunate foundation for me to have, moving forward.”

Her mom packed up for a new job opportunity in Indianapolis. Taylor, with a liberal arts degree, followed. “I was so used to moving at that point, so I was, like, why not?”

Immediately, the hands-on experience led her to work at the acclaimed Bluebeard in Fountain Square, helmed by fivetimes James Beard Best Chef semi-finalist Abbi Merriss.

“I was really lucky to get a job right away as the assistant pastry chef,” she says. “And I loved working with Abbi.

Bluebeard is a culinary force in Indy. Their sister bakery, Amelia’s, is right next door. At one point, they needed a baker and so I moved over there.”

“Zoë was actually doing pastry for our restaurant,” recalls award-winning baker Charlie McIntosh, who co-owns Amelia’s Bakery with father-and-son team Tom and Edward Battista, who are also co-owners of Bluebeard with Merriss.

“When I met her, [Taylor] expressed interest in moving over to Amelia’s. I didn’t know her well, but I liked what she had done up to that point. She knew, I think, the important things to do. She was not afraid of working hard, a desire to be better, a creative mind to try out new things and not let the concern of messing something up, hold her back.

It is nice to think we had a positive effect on her in her professional journey.”

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Zoë Taylor, Josh Kline and their son standing at what will be the new Borage location in Speedway.

Vegetables provided by Mad Farmers Collective.

One semester, she went to Paris since she was acquiring a bachelor’s in French and English literature (“Not the most employment-inducing,” she wryly comments). She lived in the 13th Arrondissement, commonly referred to as the Asian Quarter, home to many immigrants. “While there, I found myself eating a lot and trying different things.” edibleINDY.com

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During her tenure, she baked multi-layered pairings (such as a croissant Bostock with toasted oat, marjoram frangipane, raspberries, swathed in a coffee glaze; or a croissant made with spicy goat cheese, corn and preserved chanterelle) while gaining national notices for the restaurant and herself.

Taylor says, “Charlie and I were building this pastry program. I was only working [at Amelia’s] for eight months when one of the co-founders of Milktooth contacted me and was, like, ‘I want you to be a pastry chef at [our restaurant].’”

During her tenure, she baked multi-layered pairings (such as a croissant Bostock with toasted oat, marjoram frangipane, raspberries, swathed in a coffee glaze; or a croissant made with spicy goat cheese, corn and preserved chanterelle) while gaining national notices for the restaurant and herself.

Five years later, with glowing reviews, she’s now on to exciting new things, manifesting an empire to call her own with her partner, Kline. Early 2022, the couple plans to open Borage, a new dining experience in the Speedway.

Taylor made a lasting impression, including on many of her Milktooth colleagues at Milktooth “I was so excited to have an opportunity to work for her,” says Erica Caputo, a former assistant cook as well as a good friend. She now resides in South Carolina with her husband, putting together her tasty treats. “She changed me in how I approach recipes and seasonal ingredients, and in just feeling freer and more confident in the kitchen. Her bold and unique flavor pairing opened my mind to what’s even possible in pastry. Furthermore, she taught me that baking doesn’t have to be exact and rigid—that so much is by fun and feel, and sometimes winging it.”

“We enjoyed working together,” emailed Chelsea Roberts, who now works at Pots & Pans Pie Co. in Broad Ripple. Taylor is “very inventive and wasn’t scared to push the boundaries in pastry.”

The next time I meet up with Taylor, it’s a little past 8 on a Sunday morning at the eclectic Love Handle, a downtown Indy joint popular for breakfast and lunch. Festooned with hipster garage-sale finds and salvaged vintage from the ’50s to the ’70s, the place bounces with 20-somethings engaged on their phones. It’s an apt atmosphere to host one of Taylor’s monthly bake sales, as the space with its festive, magpie décor mirrors her dough inventions. Hair hidden beneath a broad black band, glasses, flour-dusted apron stretched over her midsection and with a razor-sharp focus, Taylor boxes Sourpuss Bakers delectables for those pre-ordered through her social media account. Of course, I didn’t, so I queue up with all the others vying for an inventive cinnamon bun or a slice of a wildly novel, three-tiered gateau.

A graying baby-boomer couple takes in the chalkboard menu and mumbles something through their masks to each other in front of me. I inquire if they’ve been there before.

“Oh yes,” the woman nods. “We come for the cakes but grab something to eat while we wait.” They give their selections to the cashier and move far from the kitchen, plopping by the entrance, waiting for the baker to bring their order. The lady types away on her device, oblivious to the black velvet clown paintings leering down—her husband waves through the window to someone passing by. Soon hungry eyes follow the mother-tobe carrying four boxes, gently packed with a dozen of her carefully prepared goods.

Grateful, she smiles at them and thanks to them for the purchase. They and the other groupies know a star when they taste one.

Brian Garrido has written food stories for LA Weekly, Clever Root and DailyMeal.com. He moved to Indy from Los Angeles with two dogs and his partner, Nick. Follow him on Instagram @briangarrido

Borage Borage, the new, plantfocused concept from Taylor and her partner, Josh Kline, portends what the couple feels passionate about: dough and vegetables. Located seven blocks west of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, the bakery, restaurant, coffee bar and small market complex promises an early 2022 opening and suggests becoming the next best thing in Indy since sliced bread. Taylor states the name is derived from the edible Mediterranean plant “because it’s not native to the area,” like the owners, who “aspire to become a beneficial part of the community.” It’s also one of the first plants she grew.

The couple deem their food “progressive American,” remarking they want to include the many cultures which make up our country. Still in the design process, Borage will seat 60 indoors, with a patio.

The shop will provide prepared house-made items like stocks, frozen foods, as well as meals for office workers. Indianagrown produce will be offered with local cheese and curated gifts, along with beer and wine.

Importantly, their vision includes eliminating tipping, instead offering profit-sharing to all the employees. Current plans include breakfast and lunch, seven days a week. Dinner will be for scheduled Friday–Sunday.

Borage will be located at 5240 W. 16th St. in Speedway. Follow @borageeats on Instagram for opening details.

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VINEGAR-ROASTED BEET & HORSERADISH FLAMMKUCHEN recipe: Zoë Taylor Flammkuchen is thin-crusted pastry from the Alsace region of France traditionally topped with onions, lardons and sour cream and baked in a wood-fired oven. I’ve made the classic version a lot but love to switch it up with seasonal vegetables—from chiliroasted carrots with golden raisins and kale to thinly sliced potatoes with many herbs and the ubiquitous sautéed onion. This one is an enclosed version. The one thing I keep consistent with the traditional version is: I never use cheese.

VINEGAR-ROASTED BEETS 6–8 medium-sized beets 1 cup apple cider vinegar or whatever vinegar you have ¼ cup olive oil 4 sprigs thyme 6 sage leaves

Preheat oven to 300°F. The day before, place beets in a 13- by 9-inch baking dish or something that allows them to be flat. Cover with vinegar, oil and aromatics and sprinkle salt over top. Tightly wrap foil over the top and bake for 1–2 hours, or until a knife inserted into the beet goes in and out smoothly.

Let cool for a few hours. Using an old kitchen towel, rub the skin and tails off the beets; they should come right off. Put in a clean container and strain the cooking liquid over top. Let them marinate overnight in this.

3 bay leaves 2 tablespoons salt

WHOLE-WHEAT PIE DOUGH This makes enough pie dough for two flammkuchen.

1 cup + 2 tablespoons (200g) allpurpose flour ⅔ cup (100g) whole-wheat flour such as rye or spelt or a blend 2 tablespoons (25g) sugar 1 teaspoon salt 8 ounces cold butter, cubed

In a large bowl, combine all ingredients but the butter. Get a cup of ice water ready. Add cold, cubed butter and toss to coat the cubes in the flour. Dump the mix onto a work surface and, with a rolling pin, roll the butter cubes flat, scraping with a bench scraper or spatula as you go. Scrape the butter off your rolling pin a few times as you do this! Once you have all your butter pieces flattened, bring it all together and make a well in the center. Add 2 tablespoons of ice water, toss with your hands and press together. Continue adding a few tablespoons of water at a time until the dough barely holds together. Wrap and chill in the fridge for at least an hour. (Note: Wrapped dough freezes well.)

FLAMMKUCHEN Makes 1 pastry ½ portion Whole-Wheat Pie Dough Egg wash: 1 egg yolk and heavy cream or milk ½ cup crème fraîche or sour cream ¼ cup prepared horseradish 4 Vinegar-Roasted Beets, drained from their marinade and thinly sliced Zest of 2 lemons Handful chopped parsley Salt and pepper

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The day you’re ready to bake the flammkuchen, bring the pie dough out of the fridge and let sit on the counter for an hour. Prepare your baking trays—line 2 (18- by 12-inch) half sheet trays. Preheat oven to 425°F and prepare an egg wash: Whisk 1 egg yolk and a few tablespoons heavy cream or milk together. When your dough is a touch softer, roll into a rectangle that’s just a few centimeters smaller than your tray. You can measure this by placing the tray on the dough and trimming around it. It should be very thin—like ¼ inch. Trim excess dough and save for another flammkuchen or something else. Using your rolling pin, fold the dough over and place on your lined sheet. Cut 1-inch strips into each side of the dough, about 4 inches in length, so that there’s a 4-inch uncut section in the middle. Spread the ½ cup crème fraîche onto that space, topping with the horseradish and thinly sliced beets. Divide lemon zest over the top of that plus the chopped parsley. Alternating with each side, begin to braid the strips of dough over the top of the beets, trying to keep it nice and tight. Pull each strip to the opposite side and repeat with the other. Once at the end, you might have an extra piece, which you can snip off. Brush with egg wash, sprinkle with a tablespoon of salt and pepper and place in the oven to bake for 20–25 minutes, or until deeply golden brown. Let cool 15 minutes before slicing on a diagonal and serve immediately.

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SWEET POTATO CRANBERRY CAKE WITH KEFIR CREAM CHEESE FROSTING, CHOCOLATE & SALTY PECANS recipe: Zoë Taylor An olive oil–based cake is just truly delicious. This one eats like a complex multi-layer cake without being one. Think pumpkin chocolate chip muffins, vamped up with tart and salty notes.

SALTY MAPLE OLIVE OIL PECANS Makes about 2 cups 8 ounces whole pecans ¼ cup olive oil ¼ maple syrup

Preheat oven to 325°F. On a half sheet tray, combine all ingredients and toss thoroughly to combine. Bake for 20–25 minutes, or until the nuts are deeply brown and caramelized. Let cool.

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

SWEET POTATO CRANBERRY CAKE 2 eggs, room temperature ½ cup + 1 tablespoon (100g) sugar ⅔ cup (120g) brown sugar ½ cup olive oil 1 cup (150g) all-purpose flour + 1 tablespoon ½ cup (75g) whole-wheat flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-inch cake pan. In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine eggs and both sugars. Using the whisk attachment, whip until tripled in volume and running off the whisk in thick ribbons. Slowly add olive oil, incorporating well. In a smaller bowl, combine your dry ingredients: both flours, leaveners, salt and cinnamon. Mix briefly to combine. Add sweet potato purée, lemon zest, and vanilla to the whipped egg, sugar and oil mixture and combine.

Add dry ingredients and mix on low until no dry bits remain. Slowly stream in buttermilk. In a small bowl, toss frozen cranberries in 1 tablespoon flour to coat.

Add to sweet potato batter, folding in gently. Pour into prepared cake pan and bake for 30–35 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. Let cool.

1 teaspoon fine sea salt ½ teaspoon cinnamon 2 full cups (300g) sweet potato purée— canned or boil and blend your own!

Zest of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon vanilla ½ cup buttermilk or kefir or milk mixed with a bit of yogurt ⅔ cup (150g) frozen cranberries

KEFIR CREAM CHEESE FROSTING 8 ounces cream cheese 6 ounces softened butter 2 cups powdered sugar ¼ cup kefir 1 teaspoon vanilla

Combine cream cheese and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Whip until homogenous, scraping down sides multiple times and making sure to turn the bottom of it over on itself to avoid any large cream cheese bits. Add powdered sugar, kefir, vanilla and salt and mix on low, covering the mixer with a large dish towel to avoid any powdered sugar blowback. Turn the speed up and mix until voluminous.

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

CHOCOLATE OLIVE OIL FROSTING ½ cup powdered sugar ½ cup cocoa powder 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 2 tablespoon olive oil About 4 tablespoons coffee (or milk, if making for kids)

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In a bowl, sift to combine powdered sugar, cocoa powder and salt. Add all olive oil and 1 tablespoon of coffee at time, whisking aggressively to ensure no lumps or bumps. Keep adding coffee until you have a thick frosting that falls off the whisk in a thick ribbon. Add more salt to taste.

To frost cake, pipe circles of the kefir cream cheese frosting using a small, plain no. 2 tip and fill those circles with the chocolate frosting, using the same tip but cleaning the bag in between. Alternatively, spread the cream cheese frosting on top and drizzle that with chocolate. Top with salty maple pecans, slice and enjoy.

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COOKIES THAT SAY ‘THANK YOU’ Mother and son bring taste of the Philippines to Indiana words: Lorrie Wehr photography: Martina Jackson

Can a green cookie be an ambassador of friendship and community? Can a purple cookie be a culinary tour guide? Can a cookie with a hint of peppery fire and dark chocolate and mango be a creative force for good?

W

elcome to Salamat Cookies, Philippineinspired, small-batch artisanal treats baked by a mother-and-son team with a mission: to bring people together one cookie at a time.

“Salamat means ‘thank you’ in Filipino,” says founder Mike Williams, who, along with his mother Lourdes “Odie” Williams—a.k.a. Mama Odie—turned the pandemic crisis into an opportunity still unfolding.

“During the pandemic I lost my job as a photographer and cinematographer,” says Mike. With time on his hands, he decided to try something new.

“I asked Mom, ‘Can you teach me how to bake?’”

That simple request had big repercussions.

“So, work was really hard to come by,” he recalls, “but I had friends who were still performing services for me, like my biomechanics instructor and chiropractor.” He decided to put his new baking skills to use as a way to say, “Salamat—thank you!” It didn’t take long before someone asked if the cookies were for sale.

Mike grins. “I was, like, ‘Uhhh, yup!’” In an instant a thank-you gift became a business. “I didn’t know a price. I didn’t know how much time it would take. Mom was the one who always did all the grocery shopping and prepped everything. But once I got that first ask, I went home, recorded our first vlog and set a 300-cookie sales goal for Mother’s Day.” That was the spring of 2020. Since then, Mike and Odie have baked and sold over 70,000 cookies.

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Learn More About Some of the Filipino Ingredients Used in Salamat Cookies UBE (pronounced “ooh-beh”) is a purple tuber similar in taste to red yams and sweet potatoes.

PANDAN is a tropical plant with bright green leaves that lend a bright green color and unique sweet taste and floral aroma to desserts, drinks and savory dishes. The leaves are also sold in paste, extract and powder forms and are added to recipes as a flavoring, similar to the way Westerners use vanilla.

MACAPUNO is aged, sweetened coconut made from a naturally occurring type of coconut with soft, extra-sweet flesh.

PLANTAIN is a type of banana that is starchier and not as sweet as the Cavendish dessert bananas found in most American grocery stores. Plantains are used in both sweet and savory dishes.

LANGKA is the Filipino name for jackfruit. When ripe, langka has a flavor described as a combination of apple, pineapple, mango and banana and is often used in desserts.

Serendipity or Opportunity?

“Salamat means ‘thank you’ in Filipino,” says founder Mike Williams, who, along with his mother Lourdes “Odie” Williams—a.k.a. Mama Odie— turned the pandemic crisis into an opportunity still unfolding.

Coincidence is certainly not the only power responsible for the success of Salamat Cookies.

Mike and his mother each have unique skills that complement one another. They are both willing to embrace the opportunities coming their way.

They are not afraid of hard work.

“By trade, I was an engineer, and then I worked for my family’s coconut company in California,” says Mike. With arms in the Philippines—one of the world’s leading coconut producers—and in the U.S., the company brought a wide range of coconut-based products to both wholesale and retail markets.

“They let the marketing side of my brain and my creative spirit roam,” says Mike, and it was there he learned the fundamentals of business and entrepreneurship, developing and launching social media and ecommerce channels. And because coconut-based products are so important to consumers in search of gluten-free foods, the business gave him a sense of how important distinct communities could be to a business.

All of which has served him well in getting the business off the ground. Even his experience as a photographer gave him an advantage. “I could shoot all of our cookies.”

Odie Williams brings decades of experience in the kitchen, a degree in hotel and restaurant management, and financial skills to the business. A first-generation immigrant from the Philippines, she has a deep appreciation for opportunity and the power of process. This is a woman who knows how to get things done.

“Most of my life was lived in San Juan City, within Metro Manila. I went to school there from kindergarten all the way to graduating college.”

In July 1981, she arrived in the United States, settling in the Chicago area. Eventually her degree led her to management training with Church’s Fried Chicken. It was there she met her future husband and work eventually brought them to Indianapolis. With a young family to raise and a need for more regular hours, Odie returned to university, this time earning a degree in nuclear medicine technology. She worked in the field from 1990 until she retired in 2017.

Together, mother and son are a force to be reckoned with. “Mike has his strengths and I have my strengths,” explains Odie, “and when you put them together then you create more than 100%, you create 1,000%. It’s magic.”

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Cookies with a Purpose Part of the magic of Salamat Cookies lies in Mike and Odie’s vision of what’s possible through their cookies. The company has created unique connections with the Filipino American community, the broader Indianapolis community and even customers across the nation and around the world. It has given Mike and Odie a platform to support causes they care about. It’s given them a way to share the culture and values they cherish with anyone who wants to enjoy a delicious cookie.

When asked about how baking cookies reflects Filipino culture and cuisine, Odie explains that food is central to Filipino traditions of hospitality.

“When you go to a Filipino home—and it doesn’t matter whether they’re rich or poor or whatever—the first thing they say is ‘Have you eaten yet?’” It is common for visitors to pop in unannounced, she says, “and if you happen to come during lunch, and everybody’s already eating, you go sit at the table and you eat the rice or the vegetables and the fish and the meat and all of it with everybody.”

The generous nature of their Filipino American community has been an invaluable resource in the face of ingredient shortages caused by the pandemic.

“We’re wondering, ‘How are we gonna make these cookies if we don’t have any ingredients?’” says Odie. “But all of a sudden, all of these Filipinos are, like, “Hey, I have a couple of jars of this, and a couple of jars of that.” Family and friends have kept an eye out for ingredients while traveling, she says, and “we’ve asked people in New York to send us things we can’t find in Indianapolis. They don’t want money, just cookies.”

A Taste of the Philippines, Only in Indiana The company’s eye-catching Buko Pan-DAYUMM!™ cookie owes its bright green color to pandan, an ingredient with flavor notes of grassy vanilla and coconut. The purple Gooey BUKUBAE™ cookie is a head-turner, made with ube halaya, a purple yam jam.

Mike confides that a lot of customers hesitate to pronounce some of the cookie names, but he encourages them to try. “We know that a part of the customer journey is to educate, educate. And if that opens up people’s minds to different flavors that are all around the world, especially, Southeast Asia and the Philippines, then that’s what we’re all about.”

That said, Odie goes on to explain that many of their cookies also feature popular American flavors, “Because we are a Fil-Am company, not just Filipino.” Their recipes—all original—started with an oatmeal-based cookie; from there they began systematically refining each cookie to reflect their unique creativity.

“We want this texture and this size and this much mango and this much white chocolate and, you know, all that stuff,” says Odie. “So now we have our base recipe, and now it becomes the base recipe for all the other new ones that come about, with tweaking in between.” Ingredients are added, taken away, moisture levels are adjusted, sweetness is adjusted, until Odie feels the balance of every recipe is just right.

“See?” says an admiring Mike. “She’s so process-oriented!”

Giving Back, One Cookie at a Time If you check out the “Story” page on SalamatCookies.com you’ll see a pledge to share 10% of all cookies baked. Giving back is fundamental to the company’s mission.

Last August they launched their first-ever cookie drive for the benefit of Bata Sole, a Chicago-based Filipino American organization that hosts basketball camps here in the U.S. and provides new and gently used shoes to basketball-loving children in the Philippines. For their first drive, they sold over 2,500 cookies.

“We can partner now with nonprofits around the country who are aligned with our values. We started off by saying ‘Thank you,’ and we’re making sure we’re always rooted in that.”

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Mike Williams and Lourdes “Odie” Williams sitting outside Rabble Coffee.

And the company’s goodwill is paying off in positive press—locally, nationally and internationally. A recent headline in the Philippines read, “Buko-ube, turon, pandan and mango cookies exist ... but only in Indiana, USA.” Salamat has hosted pop-up shops in events as far away as New York City. Just this past August Mike acted as organizer and host to a large event in Chicago; Salamat Cookies joined 30 other Filipino American vendors, working together to promote all of their businesses and communities.

Cookies or a Calling?

In less than two years Salamat Cookies has blossomed from a simple gesture of gratitude into a powerhouse producer of unique cookies and honest goodwill. “It’s my vision,” says Mike, “but it is also a community.

It’s never been just about me.” Every Salamat cookie is about the determination and hard work of a mother and son, about the friends and family and communities that support them, and about delivering something meaningful to every customer: a heartfelt “thank you.”

By the end of 2021, Mike and Odie have a goal to bake and sell over 100,000 cookies. And they are busy developing new recipes for the holidays, including a rum-soaked fruitcake cookie and a cookie inspired by the coquito, a coconut-based version of eggnog that originated in Puerto Rico.

Visit SalamatCookies.com to find out more, including how to order (they will ship them to you) and when they will be at Fisher’s Farmers Market. Follow SalamatCookies on Facebook and Instagram to catch pop-up shops, trips and good works in communities here in Indianapolis, around the nation and in the Philippines.

Lorrie Wehr is a writer with over three decades of experience in communications and marketing. During that time, the evolution of the local food movement in Indianapolis has provided a constant source of inspiration, confirming her belief that all good things come together over food and drink.

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WHITE CHOCOLATE OATMEAL MANGO COOKIES This mango cookie recipe is one of the first developed by Mike and Mama Odie and remains a customer favorite. They use Philippine Brand Dried Mangoes, but you can use any dried mango.

Makes 34–36 Cookies 1~ cups dried mango cup brown sugar ⅜ cup granulated sugar 1 cups all-purpose flour teaspoon baking soda teaspoon cinnamon ⅜ teaspoon salt 1 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature 2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla 2~ cups old-fashioned oats 1 cup white chocolate chips

Cut dried mango into small pieces similar to the white chocolate chips. Mix brown and granulated sugars together in a bowl. Sift flour, baking soda, cinnamon and salt into another bowl.

In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat butter on medium-low speed until creamy, then add sugar mixture, followed by eggs and vanilla, beating after each addition to combine, about 2 minutes total.

Continue to mix on medium-low speed while adding flour mixture, then oats, then mango pieces, then white chocolate chips, about 2 minutes total.

Chill dough in refrigerator for 3 hours, or chill in freezer for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350rF. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Scoop the dough into 1~-tablespoon balls (#50 scoop recommended) and place on baking sheets, 3 inches apart.

Bake 11 to 13 minutes. Make sure to remove cookies from oven when they still look just a little wet on top. Over-baking cookies will make them crunchier.

Let cookies cool on baking sheet for 5 minutes, then move to a cooling rack for 10 minutes to fully set.

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HOME COOKS ESSENTIALS 6 must-have kitchen tools we love words: Madalyn Norman | illustrations: Marisa Randles

T

he best kitchen arsenals are usually acquired over time but there are some things just too handy not to get as soon as possible. Here are six items we’re loving right now. Don’t forget to shop for these and all your kitchen tools at your nearest mom-and-pop cookware store.

Champagne Stopper If you’re anything like me, the holidays mean a lot of prosecco or other bubbly beverages.

But what happens when you can’t quite finish a bottle that can’t be re-corked? Enter the champagne saver! Pop this bottle topper onto any open bottle to keep the festive fizz in your drink. It’s a simple concept, but highly effective. Get this gadget and never waste a bubble again!

Beeswax Wrap If you’re looking for a more sustainable way to preserve food than plastic cling wrap, beeswax wrap is just the thing.

Wrap half an avocado, cover up those leftovers, or pack a snack for the kids. Beeswax wrap works like the plastic stuff but it’s washable, reusable and compostable! Whether you want to buy cute beeswax wrap or just DIY some of your own, its versatility and sustainability are unmatched.

Dutch Oven Dutch ovens have been around for centuries, and they can serve as one of the most versatile gadgets in your kitchen. They can be used on the stovetop, in the oven or even over an open fire.

Dutch ovens are great for a variety of tasks, from braising meat and making stews to baking bread. Because of their durability, some can even last generations.

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Rolling Pin The rolling pin is one of the oldest cooking utensils in the world, but I’ve found it’s an item people rarely purchase. You may have inherited one from your grandma, or you just use something found around the house. Either way, it’s time to upgrade. The French rolling pin is generally used to roll out various types of dough while making bread, pasta, pastries, etc. But this tool also works well for crushing foods or decorating. Whatever you intend to do with it, the rolling pin is a staple every home chef and baker needs.

Cold Brew Maker Let’s be honest: Making a cup of coffee and dumping it over ice is not the same as an iced coffee. But gourmet cold brew from a trendy shop can be plain costly. Time to invest in a cold brew maker! This handy gadget makes it easy to brew large batches you can keep in your fridge for up to two weeks. Just pick your favorite ground coffee and let it steep overnight for a delicious cup of cold brew by morning!

Dumpling Mold Almost every major culture in the world has some form of dumplings. That’s why a dumpling maker is a great utensil for any kitchen. This versatile mold can be used to make pot stickers, kreplach, pasties, ravioli, perogies, piroshki, samosas, empanadas, or turnovers. It’s like an all-in-one food world tour thanks to one nifty gadget! So, if you’re into various foods stuffed inside of dough, this gadget is going to be your new best friend.

Madalyn Norman grew up on the west side of Indianapolis and has a passion for writing about food, lifestyle and culture. Follow her on Instagram @TheMidwestDweller

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NAPA VALLEY DREAMS Somnium is a new journey for Danica Patrick words: Jennifer L. Rubenstein | photography: Will Bucquoy Photography

D

anica Patrick. For many Hoosiers, her name is synonymous with the Indianapolis 500, GoDaddy commercials and even the word “feisty.” She is the most successful woman driver in the history of American open-wheel car racing and has run the Boston Marathon, among other challenges achieved. Her thirst to work hard and be the best has led her to a new chapter of her life where her love for food and wine combined with her high accolades show she is nothing less than exceptional.

Where does a down-to-earth Midwesterner go after breaking the glass ceiling for women in racing, setting numerous records, starring in 14 Super Bowl commercials and being named one of TIME Magazine’s “100 Most Influential People”? She becomes an author (Pretty Intense), an inspirational speaker and the sole owner of Somnium, an impressive vineyard in California’s Napa Valley.

Patrick challenges herself to be at the top of whatever she does in life, which extends to her aspiration of owning a vineyard and producing superior wine.

Somnium, meaning “dream” in Latin, started as just that: “It really truly did start as a dream of me standing, looking over a beautiful vineyard at 10am with a glass of wine in my hand,” Patrick recalls.

The years she spent racing in Europe gave her a profound love and appreciation for remarkable food and fine wines.

In 2006, after immersing herself into Napa Valley’s blankets of vineyards, captivating views and legendary food, she fell in love with the region. Three years later she enlisted famed winemaker Aaron Pott (current winemaker is Julien Fayard) to acquire property in Napa Valley with three unwavering requirements: It had to be beautiful, have a breathtaking view and, most importantly, the soil had to be A+ good. Pott delivered when he found 24 acres on Howell Mountain, 1,300 feet above sea level, that checked each one of these requirements. Somnium was born.

Patrick wholeheartedly believes that if you have something good to start with you have a better chance of success in the end.

Howell Mountain, known for its rocky soil and history of producing “big reds” like Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Petit Sirah and Merlot, allowed for Patrick to pick a red as the right choice for the first varietal of the vineyard.

Somnium harvested its first Cabernet Sauvignon in 2014. In 2017, Somnium’s first estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon was released to the public. Since that first vintage, Somnium has introduced a Napa Valley rosé and a Rutherford Valley Sauvignon Blanc.

In 2019, the vineyard proudly gained organic status.

When having a glass of wine, Patrick’s philosophy is to not talk about the wine but to allow the wine to be a facilitator in

When having a glass of

wine, Patrick’s philosophy is to not talk about the wine but to allow the

wine to be a facilitator in connecting with others.

She wants people to live in the experience, sit

together, have fun and

engage in conversations about life.

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connecting with others. She wants people to live in the experience, sit together, have fun and engage in conversations about life.

She was instrumental in designing the logo and label for the brand.

An iridescent marking represents a whimsical dreamlike state; the curvy lines are meant to parallel life’s winding road as well as pay homage to the road leading up to the vineyard. The red dot above the i in Somnium (which Patrick calls the “you are here” dot), alludes to the mind-set of being present in every moment of your life.

Patrick has a clear passion and love for all wines, which has allowed her to grow her portfolio of achievements. Outside of being the sole proprietor of Somnium, she has partnered with another winemaker to create Danica Rosé, lending her name and influence to the brand. Provence Rosé is deeply meaningful to her with details of why creating a true French rosé was a perfect fit for her: “The reflection of being able to expand in the wine world and my career rooted in authenticity—people may not always have liked me but at least you always knew what you were getting with me.

For me, rosé from Provence is just that: It is the authentic [expression] of this specific rosé and you always know what you will get.”

Patrick has proven over the years she is authentic just like her wines.

Her roots to Indianapolis still linger. The Indianapolis 500 was the draw for her and her family years ago and while Patrick has moved away from Indiana, her family proudly remains in Brownsburg and Zionsville.

Being close with her family allows her to continue to enjoy and explore Indianapolis every time she visits. From her love of seasonal visits to pick apples and strawberries to her fondness of supporting local restaurants, she keeps Indianapolis very close to her heart.

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Although Somnium is not open to the public, there are multiple offerings for private tastings offsite including a food-pairing experience.

Somnium also offers virtual tasting experiences and sells wine directly to consumers.

For more information about how to purchase the wines or to reserve a private tasting, visit SomniumWine.com For more information on where to purchase Danica Rosé, visit DanicaRoseWine.com

photograph: Dave Pluimer

Eat. Drink.

Explore.

Local.

Indiana-based Huse Culinary restaurant group is known for the iconic downtown Indianapolis St. Elmo Steak House and their culinary masterpiece dishes including their famous shrimp cocktail. They own and operate seven fine-dining restaurants with locations in Fishers and Indianapolis and are committed to providing the best ingredients and service.

St Elmo’s Steak House 127 S. Illinois St. Indianapolis StElmos.com

1933 Lounge Downtown: 127 S. Illinois St., Indianapolis Northside: 9707 District North Dr., Ste. 1120, Fishers 1933Lounge.com

Harry & Izzy’s Downtown: 153 S. Illinois St., Indianapolis Northside: 4050 E. 82nd St., Indianapolis Airport: 7800 Col. H. Weir Cook Memorial Dr., Indianapolis HarryAndIzzys.com

HC Tavern & Bar 9709 E. 116th St., Fishers AtTheHC.com

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2021

photograph: Jennifer L. Rubenstein

Provisions Gift Guide

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Sweets MY SUGAR PIE T One of the top 10 best pies in the country as voted by Country Living, featured in Food Network Magazine and an Oprah favorite. Over 40 delicious pies are available from Sugar Cream to Mom’s Dutch Apple, Strawberry Rhubarb to Pineapple. Order online for pickup or ship in the continental United States.

40 E. Pine St., Zionsville | MySugarPie.com

Jewelry Designer Walters Faith’s layered chains and charms are perfect for any age this holiday season. Each charm is sold separately so you can create a look of your own.

Personalization is available for an additional fee.

NOTHING BUNDT CAKE X The perfect treat or gift for any occasion. From bite-sized Bundtinis to 10-inch Bundt cakes, our signature butter cream cheese–frosted Bundt cakes make everyone happy. Celebrate any season with a cake from Nothing Bundt Cakes. Order online or pick up a ready-made treat at one of these four locations.

9819 E. U.S. Hwy. 36, Avon 11680 Commercial Dr., Suite 500, Fishers 8505 Keystone Crossing, Indianapolis 6424 Whitestown Pkwy., Whitestown NothingBundtCakes.com

S PETITE G 5609 N. Illinois St., Indianapolis | PetiteG.com

JUST RENNIE’S T Give the gift that is always in good taste. Our elegant gift boxes hold 2, 6, 12, 18 or 24 of our incredibly good cookies, baked fresh to order, individually sealed. Choose from 11 delectable flavors. Order online with shipping to all 50 states.

Order online: JustRennies.com

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Beverages PROOF SYRUP X Proof Syrup a small-batch, all-natural cocktail syrup. Now offering 16 flavors ranging from Old Fashioned to Margarita to Moscow Mule. Even with sales of over 300,000 bottles a year, Proof Syrup is still produced by hand in small batches, using fresh, all-natural ingredients of the highest quality. Gift idea: Proof Syrup’s Botanical Collection made with fresh herbs and flowers is perfect for cocktails and mocktails.

Order online: ProofSyrup.com For an exclusive Edible Indy 10% discount use code: ei10 at check out.

TINKER COFFEE T The Coffee Lovers Gift Box collection has something for every coffee lover: a 12-ounce bag of single-origin Tinker coffee, an 8-ounce Acme mug and our brand new Whole Bean tasting journal.

1125 W. 16th St., Indianapolis TinkerCoffee.com/Shop

RARE BREW X We craft wildly delicious tea that’ll make you say, “damn good tea without the snobbery.”

Brewed by local tea connoisseurs in flavors that will dazzle your taste buds while being healthy, spirit-free and not filled with fillers or put into tea bags full of plastic. Featured products: sparkling tea on tap or in bottles, iced and hot loose-leaf tea. Also available wholesale.

Available at: Ash and Elm | Bovaconti Coffee | Elena Ruz Cuban Cuisine | Tam’s Savory Café | Tinker Coffee at the AMP RareBrew.com

W OLIVER WINERY Subtly sweet, fruit-forward and refreshingly low-alcohol, Oliver Winery’s Blueberry, Cherry and Lemon Moscato are palatepleasers. These locally made wines are infused with real fruit juices or extracts. Plus: They ship to more than 30 states.

200 E. Winery Rd., Bloomington OliverWinery.com

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Goods

Pantry

A QUESTION OF EAGLES X

GOOSE THE MARKET T Spread local cheer whether you’re hosting the party or bringing a gift for the host.

A “tour board” from Goose the Market is like a beautiful, edible tour of their fine-foods deli case: house-cured meats, paired farmstead cheeses, seasonal accompaniments, local bread, too. $12 per serving for dine-in, pickup or delivery.

2503 N. Delaware St., Indianapolis GooseTheMarket.com

Husband-and-wife team making smallbatch ceramics out of our studio in the SoBro neighborhood of Indy. Gorgeous gift ideas: mountain mugs hand thrown and carved. Pouring bottles to hold special olive oils or dish soap and handmade dispensers ready for sustainable soap refills.

1057 E. 54th St., Suite K, Indianapolis AQuestionOfEagles.com

THE FOREST FLOWER X The Forest Flower is your go-to shop for houseplants, garden supplies and other beautiful gifting ideas like jewelry, books, uniquely local boutique items and more.

3205 W. 71st St., Indianapolis TheForestFlower.com

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WE ARE WHAT WE EAT It’s Time To Make Food Decisions With the Climate Crisis in Mind

STO RY

BY

Twilight Greenaway, senior editor of Civil Eats,

produced in partnership with civileats.com

If we had been told, a decade ago, that so many climate-

they said that other parts of the world—developing na-

fueled disasters would hit the food system so soon, would

tions with little infrastructure and large numbers of subsis-

we have believed it?

tence farmers—would face the worst of the problem. And

If someone had described the catastrophic flooding of the Missouri river that submerged a million acres of corn

those of us in North America? We’d be fine until at least the end of the century.

and soybeans in 2019 (followed a year later by winds in the

Then someone turned the lights back on, the economists

same region that were so destructive they flattened corn si-

thanked the audience and everyone went home. I wrote

los), produce crops in Texas freezing in April, winemakers

about the lecture, quoted the experts on the science and was

having to throw away entire vintages because they tasted of

careful to take a similarly calm tone, as if I were writing from

wildfire smoke, shellfish in British Columbia being literally

a great distance about something that may or may not occur.

cooked alive in the ocean and ranchers throughout the West

Of course, some climate scientists were already issuing

being forced to sell off tens of thousands of cattle so they

dire warnings at that point, and many had made concerns

wouldn’t starve due to drought—would we have listened?

about our ability to feed ourselves central to their pleas

Would we have done more to prepare?

for action.

I can’t help but think back to a lecture I sat in on in

But most of us had no idea how urgently we needed to

2008 on the future of food and climate change by a pair of

prepare for what we’re now seeing play out in the food sys-

Ivy League economists. I had seen An Inconvenient Truth

tem—and in the world at large. Indeed, the stakes couldn’t

and was serious about local food. And I had a hunch that

be higher. Food production has been rocked to the core and

reducing my “food miles” wouldn’t cut it.

many small and medium-scale farmers are contemplating

The economists talked about the potential boon to crop yields, due to “increased photosynthesis” and “CO2

throwing in the towel.

This fact was driven home for me this summer, as I

fertilization,” but added that warming temperature and ris-

trudged through ankle-deep mud on my family’s small farm

ing evaporation would balance one another out, at least in

in Captain Cook, Hawaii—on what was once the “dry side

our lifetimes. Some places would get too wet, and some

of the island” but has seen record-level, nearly non-stop rain-

would be too dry, they warned. And, as if to reassure us,

fall for the past year. My mother, a farmer, was dismayed at

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the constant rain’s impact on her orchards, and by the host of new

be marketing ploys, but it’s clear that they’ve realized “sustain-

invasive species—from fire ants and wild boars to slugs that carry

ability” is a term they must use literally, as in, do their business

a brain-eating parasite—that are thriving there due to warming

models have a future?

temperatures. The soil has been consistently saturated with water,

When it comes to making sure the rest of us have a future,

and the coffee and fruit trees are suffering from multiple fungal

however, I’m betting on the work of small-scale farmers and

diseases at once. The vegetables in the gardens are often stunted

ranchers—and more of them working at a human scale—as one

and mildewy as the sun has stubbornly refused to shine.

of our most important solutions to the climate crisis.

And I thought about those self-assured economists when I

If done right, farming and ranching can help bring the natu-

returned home to drought-stricken Northern California, where

ral world back into balance. And it has the potential to reverse our

I saved water from my kitchen and shower and lugged it to the

current scenario: millions of acres of land covered in monocrops

tiny garden I struggle to keep alive through the dry season. Most

growing in soil that is overly tilled, void of most life and actively

of the small-scale farms in the area didn’t have the luxury of re-

washing into the ocean nearly every time it rains.

claimed water; instead, they found themselves abandoning doz-

Soil holds three times more carbon globally than the atmo-

ens of acres at a time, making radical changes to their business

sphere does. And it can hold more if it’s managed in a way that

models, and discontinuing their CSAs. Meanwhile, the ongoing,

brings more of it back to life. But to do that we need producers

often terrifying onslaught of wildfires made the mere thought of

who are immensely curious and dedicated—who see the chal-

rain seem like a mirage on the other end of a very long desert.

lenge at hand and want to rise to meet it.

The fact that these “new normals” have already had a dra-

They need to work in concert, and they need to represent a

matic impact on the food system probably shouldn’t be a sur-

much wider swath of the population—here in North America

prise. Global temperatures have already risen 1.5 degrees Celsius

that means intentionally making space for exponentially more

above pre-industrial levels and the impacts are evident. The sixth

young people, more Black, Indigenous, and people of color (BI-

assessment report published by the Intergovernmental Panel on

POC) producers, and more LGBTQ producers. It also means

Climate Change (IPCC) in August warned of significant drops in

passing systemic policies that help them explore, invest in and

crop yields for corn, wheat, rice and other cereal grains if global

modernize the farming practices that have long been successful

temperatures hit the 2 degree C level. If that happens, the report

at cooling the planet.

said, there will be “more times of year when temperatures exceed

In plain terms that means we need more perennial crops, trees

what crops can stand” and “risks across energy, food and water

on farms (i.e., agroforestry and silvopasture), managed grazing,

sectors could overlap spatially and temporally, creating new and

cover crops, waffle gardens and other methods of deep-soil plant-

exacerbating current hazards, exposures, and vulnerabilities that

ing, crop diversity, prescriptive burns, seed sovereignty, local food

could affect increasing numbers of people and regions.”

and farm infrastructure, and multitrophic aquaculture.

Among the clear list of hazards are the “food shocks” caused

We need to help more farmers control weeds without tilling

by extreme weather events—and they show no sign of slowing

the soil. We need more compost on the surface of the soil and

down. For these reasons, food prices are expected to grow at a

more mycelia and living ecosystems below. We also need more

steadier clip than most of us have experienced in our lifetimes.

plants at the center of our plates. We need to spend more time

According to the United Nation’s Food and Agriculture Organi-

listening to Indigenous communities and remembering that our

zation (FAO), for instance, global food prices rose by nearly 33

needs are inextricable from the needs of the natural world, and

percent between September 2020 and September 2021.

the ecosystems that have kept it in balance for millennia.

It’s not just farmers who are scrambling to respond. Many of

Most of this probably won’t require new cap and trade

the world’s largest, most powerful food companies are starting

markets, new consumer labels or new technology. But it will

to examine their supply chains in a new light, hoping to posi-

require more hands—and very likely a different, more collec-

tion themselves as part of the solution. Multinational food com-

tive approach to land ownership, at a moment when building

panies like General Mills, Smithfield, Unilever and Danone are

housing is considered a much more valuable use of land than

all publicizing the changes they’re making in their supply chains

producing food.

to address emissions and rethink their farming practices. Some

None of this will mean much if we don’t also stop burning

of these changes could have a real impact and others might just

fossil fuels—and subsidizing that burning on a global scale. But continued

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there’s more and more agreement among scientists and cli-

their foods, it often has the curious effect of making us

mate advocates that we also need to turn more of our agri-

into the kinds of people who want to vote for—and fight

cultural soil into a carbon sink, and that doing so is a matter

for—systemic change.

of how—not if.

I was thinking about this recently while lugging a

The good news is that a lot of smart people are already

bucket of dishwater out to my garden and feeling a little

working on the how. And that’s where your dinner—and

like I was wasting my time, as my neighbors were still turn-

breakfast, lunch, snacks—enter the picture.

ing on their hoses. It hurts my back, it’s absurdly time con-

There’s a healthy debate in both agriculture and climate

suming. But every time I do it, I am made again and again

circles about the value of individual action versus the need

into the person who notices water and who keeps noticing

for systemic change. And food, thankfully, lies at the in-

water—who notices plants, notices soil. And being that

tersection of both. What we do—and eat—every day is

person is what makes me ache for climate policy that pri-

who we are. When we support people who produce food

oritizes survival for all.

with soil health and the climate in mind—whether that’s

Can we change the food system in time to help cool the

buying from them directly, using a farmers’ market dollar-

planet? That’s an open question. Do we have any real choice

matching program or dining in restaurants that cook with

but to try? As I see it, absolutely not.

Closing Thoughts From Our Founder Thank you for joining us on these pages, the third in a series of thought leadership pieces from Edible Communities.

We would like to send a special thanks to our partners for this issue, Twilight Greenaway, Naomi Starkman and the team at Civil Eats who made this story possible.

Telling powerful stories about local food and community has been the mission of Edible Communities for the past 20 years. And while I know we’ve had an impact on the way food is grown and consumed throughout North America, now more than ever there is a greater urgency for all of us to do more. A lot more.

As Twilight so elegantly points out in this article, taking individual action daily—whether recycling household water in our garden or demanding more inclusivity for those raising the food we eat—is what keeps us aware and makes us pay attention. It is what makes it impossible for us to ignore the honest reality inherent in: “What we do—and eat—every day is who we are.” And it is what will ultimately lead to systemic change.

During this holiday season and as we begin a new year, I want to express my deep and enduring gratitude to the network of wildly talented individuals who are the lifeblood of Edible Communities—the publishers, editors, contributors and staff who so diligently work to bring you these important stories throughout the year—every single one of whom has courageously and tirelessly fought to keep their local food communities alive, even in the face of a global pandemic. With independent journalism being threatened today more than at any time in our history, it’s especially important for us to support their efforts. The ability to maintain editorial independence and to dive deeply into urgent issues like the climate crisis are critical to the health of our society. That is why organizations like Civil Eats (civileats.com) are so important to us and to our mission. I encourage you to subscribe to their newsletter, donate, be informed, pay attention—help effect change.

Tracey Ryder, Co-Founder & CEO Edible Communities

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