edible explorer
CHARMED IN COPENHAGEN Savoring the moment at Copenhagen’s loveliest hotel, in a city where old-world and modern exist happily enmeshed. BY SHAUNA BURKE
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openhagen—a city long known to foodies as the home of René Redzepi and the famed Noma, its happy residents, cycling culture, and sustainability—wowed me as a culinary gem from the get-go. A late summer sojourn meant long, light nights, parks and outdoor spaces bursting with good energy, and dry enough weather to rely on bicycles (which were easily rented at the hotel) as the ideal method of transportation. From an amazing, central location, walking the city—with an umbrella for safety—was very doable. Hotel d’Angleterre—dating back to the 1700s—was reborn in 2013 after an extensive renovation and has long been considered one of Copenhagen’s finest addresses. Situated in about as perfect a spot as I could hope for, right on the touristy and iconic Kongens Nytorv Square—a thirtysecond walk from the metro station, it’s also just around the 28
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corner from exquisite shopping (don’t miss Illum, the city’s oldest department store, or Torvehallerne, a one-of-a-kind public market brimming with Danish delicacies)—and is steps away from many of the sights and museums on my hit-list. The hotel’s Amazing Space spa was a tranquil haven with an indoor pool where I enjoyed a lovely massage, but the standout of an already spectacular visit is most certainly the hotel’s Michelin-starred Restaurant Marchal. Chef Jakob de Neergaard, a tall, calm, sublimely personable veteran chef brings his fine French expertise to the table, including his years of experience at iconic spots like Paris’ Ritz Hotel, the three-star Alain Ducasse, and the three-star Restaurant Bruneau in Brussels. I wondered how fine French cuisine would fare in a city so dedicated to modern Nordic cooking, hyperlocal ingredients, and sustainability, but the goal of Marchal is to marry the two
