a local feast • merry cocktails • beans • corn and more
Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods in Southern Wisconsin
There are far better things ahead than any we leave behind. C.S. Lewis
NOTABLE EDIBLES by Lauren Langtim RECIPE INDEX
GIFTS OF THE SEASON a sponsored feature DIG IN Dry Corn by Dani Lind
NOURISH
The Humble Bean by Laura Poe Mathes
DRINK LOCAL Merry and Bright, Shaken and Stirred by Mariah Renz
COOK AT HOME
The Local Holiday Table by Lauren Rudersdorf
A SWEET SURPRISE by Ellen Coatney
FOODWAYS
A Neighborly (and Adaptable) Cookie by Monica O’Connell
SUPPORTERS
LAST BITE by Shannon Berry
Shannon Berry is the pastry chef at Pasture & Plenty. Prior to her current position, she was a cheesemonger at Fromagination for 4 years. She discovered her gastronomic passion as a young girl and has been working to develop skills in a variety of professional culinary environments for the past 14 years. She aspires to bring people together through tasty, nourishing food and is grateful for any chance to experiment creatively.
Ellen Coatney is the owner of the plant-based ice cream company Fifth Scoop and a pastry chef at Frostwood Farms Kitchen in Middleton. Originally from Wheaton, Illinois, Ellen has lived in Wisconsin for almost 10 years and graduated from the Madison College Baking and Decorative Arts program. When she is not churning ice cream or folding pastry, Ellen enjoys traveling, hiking, and watching terrible action movies. She lives in Madison with her miniature pinscher mix, Maggie.
Tracy is a graphic designer and photographer from Madison, Wisconsin. A polymath at heart, she dabbles in various arenas of makery including cooking and baking, sewing and knitting, painting and collage, and has a soft spot in her heart for film photography. When she’s not busy making things, she enjoys travel, good food and drinks, gardening, and live music.
Jim holds a degree in communication and journalism from the University of Wisconsin, Eau Claire. A Wisconsin native, he is a local adventurer who loves food, photos, and a good wheat beer. He is passionate about enjoying food with others and capturing life in Southern Wisconsin through photography.
Dani owns and operates Rooted Spoon Culinary, a farm-totable catering service and event space/bar in downtown Viroqua that focuses on locally sourced and seasonal menus and cocktails. When she’s not in the kitchen, she’s working up an appetite helping her husband with their grass-fed beef operation, gardening, or hiking/paddling/biking/skiing with her border collies.
Monica is a scholar, writer, pastry chef, and owner of Curtis & Cake, a work space for exploring culture, community, and connection at the dessert table. She believes chocolate cake is an important part of a balanced diet and is currently working on a book-length project about sites of Black hospitality.
Mariah Renz has been immersed in the Madison bar and restaurant community for over 14 years. As the co-founder of Spirited Women and Bar Manager at Mint Mark, she integrates her passion for community development with an appreciation for local ingredients to create unique food pairings and craft cocktails. Though her favorite thing is to welcome and care for customers in the restaurant, she has embraced the current challenges with takeout craft cocktail kits to complement Mint Mark’s locally inspired eats.
MANAGING EDITOR
Lauren Langtim
PUBLISHERS
Christy McKenzie Cricket Redman
BUSINESS MANAGER Christy McKenzie
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Cricket Redman
COPY EDITOR Judith Woodburn
CULINARY ADVISOR Christy McKenzie
SOCIAL & DIGITAL PRODUCER Lauren Rudersdorf
ADVERTISING, SPONSORSHIPS & EVENTS Dena Alspach 612-978-0084 dena@ediblemadison.com
CONTACT US Edible Madison 4313 Somerset Lane Madison, WI 53711 hello@ediblemadison.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS
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Lauren Rudersdorf owns and operates Raleigh’s Hillside Farm outside of Evansville, WI, with her husband Kyle. Together they manage ten acres for their growing CSA and hemp businesses. When she’s not out in the fields, Lauren shares seasonal
ura Poe Mathes is a registered dietician in private practice, focused on healing with real foods and herbs. She loves to spread knowledge and enthusiasm for great food, and teach traditional cooking and fermentation classes around the region. This causes her fridge to overflow with jars of pickled goodies. Originally from Missouri, Laura has been living in Viroqua, WI, for four years and now understands why cheese curds are a thing. She also loves to canoe, drink coffee and Sign
Every Thanksgiving, my mom and aunt bake my grandma’s old bread recipe, a simple white pan loaf with a secret ingredient (I’ll give you a hint—that side of my family is Irish. That’s right—there’s an entire potato hiding in each loaf.) The aroma of this freshly baked bread announces that the season has started; a season that wraps us in tradition and the special flavors unique to certain gatherings, like my parents’ potato pancakes that they only make on Christmas morning, and Manhattans all around, all season long. It’s amazing how recipes take on a life of their own when they are intertwined with a certain occasion, and most importantly, certain people.
As we head into a winter unlike any other, we have been giving a lot of thought to holiday tradition. It brings up something different for each one of us. You may look forward to this time all year, or you may find the holidays challenging even when there’s not a global pandemic to contend with, or maybe you find yourself in the bittersweet in-between. In any case, nothing whips up the potent combination of nostalgia and food quite like the time from Thanksgiving to New Years.
This year, we want to find ways to carry on our traditions without clinging too tightly to what a “typical” holiday season looks like. The pandemic calls on us to get creative with traditions. It feels important to strike the right balance between the comfort of familiarity and the novelty of breaking out of the routine. So, we hope that in the following pages you’ll find the right mix of familiar winter flavors and unexpected twists to inspire your winter celebrations.
The digital stories planned for our monthly emails this winter also will focus on ways to make memories, gather safely and eat well. Friday night bonfires, anyone? Think pudgie pies, fancy popcorn and more. Go to ediblemadison.com/email-newsletter to sign up for our newsletter, The Beet. Everyone who signs up in November and December will be entered to win a gift basket filled with fireside cooking accessories, Edible Madison goods, and...tasty treats from local producers, of course.
Let’s dig in!
Lauren Langtim, Managing Editor
P.S. We welcome your feedback and suggestions to help us stay relevant in an ever-changing landscape as we continue to evolve our content and offerings for Edible Madison.
The folks behind Lark, the farmto-table restaurant, have created Lark Market, a new shop and deli offering sandwiches from Lark restaurant, as well as wine, spirits, local cheese, baked goods, charcuterie and custom gift baskets.
“We started making lists of all the regional products that we love that we couldn’t find in Janesville, like Potter’s Crackers, Quince & Apple, Gail Ambrosius, quality artisan cheese, and the funky liquors that make up so many of our favorite cocktails. It’s so great to work with all these small companies and help them reach a wider audience.”
-Joan Neeno, Owner of Lark Wine & Cheese Wednesdays: small group samplings and tastings, by reservation only.
See menu and list of provisions and order online at: larkjanesville.com
TUES-FRI 11AM-6PM
SAT 10AM-2PM
Successfully opening a restaurant in the middle of the pandemic is no easy feat, but that’s exactly what Jamie Hoang (formerly of Sujeo) and Chuckie Brown have managed to do. The Lao-Thai-inspired menu is ever-expanding and features a constant flow of inventive specials.
To order online for pickup, find them on Facebook (@ahanmadison608) and follow the ToastTab link in their bio.
TUES-SUN 11AM-9PM
Wildwood introduced a small store of provisions to grab with your morning coffee on the way to your daily adventure. Just what you need to pack a picnic for a winter hike, cross country or a snow shoe with friends. Order online for pick-up or drop in at wildwood-cafe.com
WED-SUN 8AM-NOON
Keep your food miles low and score some extra flavorful, sustainably raised meat from a farmer near you! Go to ediblemadison.com for an expanded, up-to-the minute version of Notable Edibles!
SEVEN SEEDS FARM - SPRING GREEN
Grass-fed beef, pastured pork and chicken. Order online for pickup or delivery to Madison area: sevenseedsorganicfarm.com.
Visit the farm store on Saturdays from 11-3pm and Wednesdays from 3-6pm.
ENOS FARMS - SPRING GREEN
Pastured pork. Order online for Spring Green pickup or delivery to Madison, Mineral Point and Dodgeville.
UNCONVENTIONAL ACRES - ARENA
Grass-fed beef and pastured pork. Order online for delivery to Middleton and west Madison at unconventionalacres.com.
SUGAR RIVER FARM - BELLEVILLE
Truly local turkey. Inquire at sugarriverfarm.com/contact.
RIEMER FAMILY FARM - BRODHEAD
Grass-fed beef and lamb, heritage breed pork, and pastured poultry. Order online for delivery at riemerfamilyfarm.com.
SQU ASHINGTON FARM - MOUNT HOREB
Dried pinto beans are one of their specialty crops. Order online from squashingtonfarm.com
VITRUVIAN FARMS - MCFARLAND
Oyster, shiitake, chestnut mushrooms and more. Order online for delivery to wider Madison area at vitruvianfarms.com
There’s never been a better time to volunteer your time or donate food or funds to your favorite charity. Here’s a list of places to consider:
UNITED WAY OF WISCONSIN
A Dane County-specific searchable database of in-person and virtual volunteer opportunities plus donation wish lists from nonprofits. volunteeryourtime.org
SECOND HARVEST FOOD BANK OF SOUTHERN WISCONSIN
Support the 25th annual NBC15 Share Your Holidays campaign. Learn more at secondharvestmadison.org.
THE RIVER FOOD PANTRY
Learn about The River’s COVID-19 Emergency Food Fund and get involved at riverfoodpantry.org
REAP FOOD GROUP Donate to support all of REAP’s great work to improve the local food system at reapfoodgroup.org.
GOODMAN COMMUNITY CENTER
Get involved with the food pantry or the Holiday Gift Sponsorship Program for the families of the center’s youth programs. goodmancenter.org
COOK IT FORWARD
Support the collaboration between local restaurants and local nonprofits to create an end-to-end distribution network to tackle food insecurity in Madison. cookitforwardmadison.org
Elevate your next wine pairing with LE GRUYÈRE® AOP , made for over 900 years from the purest cow’s milk in the Swiss Alps. Gruyère AOP’s nutty complexity sings with Chardonnay, boosts a Beaujolais, and perfects a Pinot Noir. For more information and some great recipes and pairing ideas, visit us at gruyere.com. Cheeses from Switzerland. www.cheesesfromswitzerland.com
Pan-fried Cornmeal-Crusted Fish
Cornmeal
Slow Cooker Beans with Greens and Ham Hocks
Roast Duck with Cranberry Orange Glaze
Leek Milk Bread Rolls
Roasted Butternut Squash with Maple Chipotle Butter
Winter Kale Salad with Roasted Brussels Sprouts & Cinnamon Citrus Vinaigrette 29
SWEET
Chocolate Cinnamon Cake with Spiced Orange Whipped Cream
Espresso Nut Shortbread with White Chocolate Ganache.
Butter Cookies — Sweet or Savory
Beat shipping delays by buying early and buying local for your holiday shopping. Edible Madison has curated a few gifts that will be treasured for their capacity to bring luxury to everyday routines: maple syrup to bless morning oats, exquisite jams for afternoon toast and tea, and artfully designed housewares to brighten the darkest of days. Watch for our digital giving guide dropping in late November for even more local gift ideas—follow us on instagram at @ediblemadison. Sasha Mazur of Green Life Trading Co. is ready to help you green your kitchen and home this holiday with her impeccably curated selection of housewares! Living low waste looks different in every home and these favorites are as beautiful as they are functional. They’ll be sure to be the most-loved and used gifts of 2020. Shop online: greenlifetradingco.com follow @greenlifetradingco
Craveworthy Pottery from Wilson Creek Pottery, Spring Green Hand-carved Utensils from Silva Spoon, Madison
Fiber Craft Kits from Ewetopia, Viroqua Wisconsin Candle Company, Waunakee
Hand-blown Glass from Studio Paran, Madison
Customized gift baskets from Lark Market, Janesville
Gift boxes from Landmark Creamery, Paoli and Quince and Apple, Madison
Care package of baked goods & great coffee from your favorite baker and coffee roaster
Gift cards and provisions from your favorite restaurants!
A nice bottle of local spirits. Find yours at J. Henry & Sons (Dane), Driftless Glen Distillery (Baraboo), La Crosse Distilling Co. (La Crosse), Minhas Distillery (Monroe), State Line Distillery (Madison) or Yahara Bay Distillery (Madison)
Socially Distanced Cheese Tasting Kits from Fromagination! Send to your friends and plan a Zoom party to taste together.
Virtual wine tasting class with Molly Moran at Table Wine or a Wine Club membership with Square Wine Co’s Andrea Hillsey.
A morning at Kosa Spa with a Moon Journal from the Good Day Shop followed by a walk through Olbrich Gardens.
Bree and Eric of B&E’s Trees fell head over heels for a small corner of land in Southwest Wisconsin in 2011.
In partnership with Central Waters Brewing Company, they now age their delectable syrup in bourbon barrels. The resulting organic maple syrup is rich, complex and incredibly delicious. B&E invite you to join them to taste and share the adventure!
Shop online atbandestrees.com or find them at your favorite specialty retailer follow @bandestrees
Flight of Fancy Gift Box of three 4.25 oz syrups for $34.95. Individual syrups are available from 1.7 oz to a gallon jug.
Blue Violet Jams and Jellies in Sun Prairie gives classic fruits a hint of something surprising—think peak-season plums steeped with green cardamom or ripe pears infused with fresh rosemary. Spread on toast, scones or a special sandwich, complement your favorite cheese, or spoon on vanilla ice cream for a taste of summer any day of the year.
Jams include: Plum Cardamom, Spiced Holiday Cranberry, Pear Rosemary, Blueberry Violet, Concord Grape & Tarragon, Orange Earl Grey, and Apple Fennel.
Order via email at bluevioletjamsandjellies@ gmail.com or send a message via intagram or facebook @bluevioletjamsandjellies. Also available at Orange Tree Imports, Beans and Cream, Cassoulet or Guilty Cake.
Blue Violet Jams & Jellies in 4oz or 6oz jars $6 / $8
Upon moving to Wisconsin from Jalisco in western Mexico, Julian Zepeda asked his wife, Heidi Zepeda, who hails from Spring Green, “With fields upon fields of beautiful corn in Wisconsin, why is no one making fresh corn tortillas?” Cooks like me who’d been searching for locally-produced tortillas for years were probably wondering the same thing. Fortunately for us, the Zepedas set out to solve that problem. Their new tortilleria in the former Lonesome Stone Milling building in Lone Rock, WI, uses the ancient Aztec technique of nixtamalization to make traditional Mexican fresh corn tortillas from local non-GMO and organic corn.
The Zepedas have had a host of obstacles to overcome. The vast majority of the corn fields Julian was talking about aren’t filled with corn humans can actually eat, but instead genetically modified and chemical laden corn that’s destined for animal feed, industrial components, refined food products like high fructose corn syrup and corn oil, or ethanol fuel production. Fortunately, local growers like Meadowlark Organics of Ridgeway, WI (profiled in our Fall 2020 issue) are
Where to get fresh local tortillas : Nothing beats the taste of made-from-scratch corn tortillas. Fortunately for us, fresh, local tortillas are having a moment. Taco lovers, rejoice!
TORTILLERIA ZEPEDA IN SPRING GREEN: See a full list of where to buy at tortilleriazepeda.com
TORTILLAS LOS ANGELES IN MADISON: Contact 608-345-3089tortillaslosangeles@gmail.com
BANDIT TACOS IN MADISON: Order fresh tortillas (and much more) for pickup or delivery at bandit-tacos.com.
beginning to fill the demand for organic corn that can be used as whole kernels by producers like the Zepedas, or stone-milled into cornmeal for food co-ops, restaurants, and home cooks.
Unlike their industrialized relatives, foods made from whole grain organic corn can be quite good for you, with lots of fiber, minerals, and B vitamins. Dry corn has been a staple food of native North, Central, and South Americans for thousands of years and can be used to make all sorts of delicious foods, including popcorn. It can be milled and sifted into various levels of coarseness for flour, starch, cornmeal, grits, or polenta. Or, through an ancient technique first developed by the Aztecs and Mayans, it can be nixtamalized to improve the corn’s nutrition and digestibility. Early peoples used a hot alkaline solution made from wood ash to soften the dried corn kernels and dissolve their hulls. Today food processors employ the same process using calcium hydroxide derived from slaked limestone (also known as cal or pickling lime). Nixtamalized corn can be eaten whole as hominy or ground into masa dough for things like the Zepeda’s tortillas.
white, yellow, and blue corn tortillas
serves 4 prep time: 10 min cook time: 15 min
INGREDIENTS
1½ lb mild, flaky fish filets, such as walleye, trout, whitefish, farm-raised catfish, or cod
1 cup stone-ground cornmeal, medium grind
¾ tsp sea salt
½ tsp each thyme, paprika, and black pepper
½ cup mayonnaise
Safflower or vegetable oil for pan frying
1. Combine cornmeal, salt, thyme, and spices together in a pie plate or baking dish.
2. Pat fish filets dry with a paper towel and spread a thin coating of mayonnaise all over each.
3. Heat about ¼ inch of oil in a cast-iron pan over medium heat.
4. Carefully dredge each mayo-covered filet in the cornmeal mixture, tap off excess, and slide into the hot oil, leaving room to flip them. After a minute or two, when golden and starting to brown, flip the fish to fry the other side for another couple minutes.
5. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate, and serve immediately with homemade tartar sauce and lemon wedges.
serves 3 prep time: 10 min cook time: 10 min
INGREDIENTS
1 cup stone-ground whole grain cornmeal (like Meadowlark Organics’)
¼ cup white whole wheat flour, all-purpose flour, or all-purpose gluten-free flour mix
½ tsp baking soda
½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp sea salt
2 eggs
1 cup buttermilk
2 Tbsp sunflower oil or melted butter
Oil or bacon grease for cooking
1. Whisk together cornmeal, flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. In another bowl, whisk eggs, buttermilk and oil or melted butter. Add wet mix to dry mix, then whisk together until just smooth
2. Heat a large skillet or electric griddle with a bit of oil or bacon grease over medium heat. Pour about ¼ cup of batter per pancake and cook about 1½ minutes per side, until golden. Repeat with additional oil/grease and remaining batter. Serve immediately with butter and pure maple syrup.
DENT CORN —aka field corn— is used primarily as livestock feed, but also for processed foods. Most
CORNMEAL is dried corn ground between steel rollers, a process in which some or most of
POLENTA is coarse stoneground yellow flint corn. It’s used to make a porridge that can be eaten loose and creamy or set into
This is an ode to the bean. While they may be unassuming, beans are actually little nuggets of nutrition that are eaten all around the world, showing up in just about every cuisine imaginable. Dried beans last indefinitely if stored in a cool, dry place like the cupboard, where they will be ready to use anytime, such as when going to the store in bad weather is out of the question.
You can stock up on a variety of beans, buying in bulk to keep in your larder all winter long. Beans are also an affordable way to “stretch” a meal, adding nutrition and bulk for very little cost, which is beneficial for the body and budget, and would likely make your grandmothers proud. I even consider beans a comfort food in a way, as they are soft and starchy, while a bit toothsome, and are often found in soups and stews that provide warmth in the cooler months. Finally, beans are increasingly becoming part of the foodshed here in Southwest Wisconsin, with organic, often heirloom, varieties on offer from local farmers such as those at Meadowlark Organics. For all these reasons, I think of beans as a perfect winter food—especially for this odd and unfamiliar winter.
When I use the word “bean,” I am referring to the whole family of legumes that include beans, lentils and peas, all of which are nutritional superstars. Beans are probably best known for being high in fiber. The main type of fiber that beans contain is soluble fiber, which acts as a prebiotic to feed the beneficial bacteria in the gut to promote a healthy microbiome. A robust and diverse population of gut microbes has been linked to improved digestion, immune health and
inflammation. Beans are among the highestfiber sources of carbohydrates, which gives them a lower glycemic index and help with blood sugar control. For those like myself, who eat meat, and vegetarians alike, beans are also a plant source of protein. Beans also provide multiple B vitamins and several minerals, including many that act as antioxidants.
I recommend using dried beans, rather than precooked and canned, whenever possible. Dried beans are cheaper and have a longer shelf-life. However, I do like to keep a few cans of cooked beans on hand for a quick weeknight meal, just in case life doesn’t go according to plan.
Cooking with dried beans does require thinking ahead—at least a day or two, if you pre-soak them. There are two camps in the bean soaking debate, but I am firmly on the “do soak” side. Pre-soaking beans speeds up the cooking time, and offers nutritional benefits. Just like grains, nuts and seeds, beans are more digestible if soaked prior to cooking. Beans contain carbohydrates that can be difficult to digest, which can lead to some less-than-desirable symptoms (heck, they even made a song about it!), but soaking pre-digests these starches to reduce hose unwanted side effects. Soaking before cooking also decreases the content of phytates, oxalates, and lectins—anti-nutrient factors found in the seeds of plants, including beans. Removing these compounds helps make the many minerals in beans more available to the body. To me, the extra step of soaking is well worth a little bit of time and effort for the nutritional payoff.
Once your beans have soaked for 1-2 days, they are ready to strain and cook. The cooking can take up to a few hours,so put on a pot of beans while you watch a movie if you need to pass the time. For hands-off cooking, use a slow-cooker, or opt for a pressure cooker (such as the InstaPot) if you are in a time crunch. To avoid underdone or tough beans, be sure to cook beans without acidic ingredients (such as vinegar or tomato).
Once cooked, beans can be added to just about anything under the sun. I like to make an extra-big batch of beans to use in a variety of meals throughout the week. For warm and comforting meals, throw them into soups, stews, curries or chili. Simmer them in bone broth with a handful of fresh herbs for an easy side dish or combine with whatever meat, veggies, and grains you like to create a onepot meal. This is a perfect medium for using up leftover bits of fridge goodies, reducing food waste in your kitchen. Or use chilled beans as the base for a salad, puree them to make a dip (homemade hummus, anyone?), or refry to accompany tacos and fill pupusas. I even like beans for breakfast, combined them with eggs and avocado on a weekend breakfast burrito bar, or English-style with baked beans on toast. Many cultures even ferment beans, adding a probiotic boost and further improving their digestibility. I even know some recipes that use beans in desserts such as brownies. Is there anything beans can’t do?
prep time: 20 minutes + 1-2 days for soaking cook time: about 12 hours serves 6-8
This dish featuring many Wisconsin ingredients is inspired by my Missouri roots, using one of my favorite kitchen gadgets: the slow cooker. Cooking your food low and slow helps to preserve more nutrients, maintain moisture and enhance flavor—all while you are doing other things. Cooking the beans with ham hocks creates a smoky, salty broth and a comforting dish that will stick to your ribs this winter.
1 lb dried pinto beans (or use the dried bean of your choice)
½ tsp sea salt for soaking + ¼ tsp sea salt for cooking
1 large onion, diced
3-4 cloves garlic, minced
2 smoked pork hocks, about 2 lbs (or substitute bone-in ham or pork soup bones instead)
4 cups water
4 cups bone broth—can be beef, chicken, or pork—or sub 4 more cups water
8 cups chopped collard greens or kale (about 1 large bunch)
½ tsp paprika
¼ tsp black pepper
2 bay leaves
1 Tbsp brown sugar or maple syrup
1½ tsp apple cider vinegar
1. Rinse the dried beans and check for any rocks or shriveled beans to discard. Place the rinsed beans in a large bowl. Cover the beans with water and add the 1/2 tsp salt, using about twice the volume of water than beans to cover, as they will expand significantly during soaking. If beans emerge from the water during soaking, simply add more water and continue soaking. Let soak for 1-2 days at room temperature.
2. Drain and rinse the soaked beans, then place in a slow cooker. Add the onion, smoked hocks, broth, water, greens, garlic, paprika, 1/4 tsp salt, black pepper, bay leaves and brown sugar. Cover and turn heat to high.
3. Let simmer for about 12 hours, or up to 24 hours, cooking until the beans are extremely tender. If the liquid reduces too much during cooking, add more water or broth to keep plenty of liquid in the pot.
4. Once the beans are tender, add the apple cider vinegar and stir to incorporate. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as desired before serving.
I only add a bit of salt at the beginning, as smoked ham hocks are quite salty, and the beans will absorb lots of the salty broth during cooking. Be sure to season to taste at the end.
If you want to make this on the stovetop instead of the slow cooker, reduce cooking time to 2-3 hours, or until the beans are tender. Serve with your favorite hot sauce and warm, buttered cornbread for the ultimate down-home, cold-weather meal.
photo by Jim Klousia • pottery from Morgan ChervenThese festive cocktail recipes come to us from Mariah Renz of Mint Mark on Madison’s east side. You can find all the ingredients at the Cork ‘n Bottle Liquor Store in Madison. Or keep an eye out for these cocktails on Mint Mark’s to-go cocktail kit menu this season.
A warm hug in a glass with a kiss of sunshine and the perfect balance of sweetness and spice to buffer coldest darkest days.
Spiced Pear Syrup
SUGGESTIONS
½ cup honey ½ cup sugar
1 ¼ cup water
1 cinnamon stick 4 star anise
Zest from one orange 1 sliced pear ¼ tsp salt
This cocktail is a combo of a Lion’s Tale and a Trinidad Sour. It’s rich and bitter, with fresh citrus and tropical notes. Cheers!
oz Giffard Orgeat
Combine ingredients with a scoop of ice in a cocktail tin. Shake vigorously then strain into a fancy stemmed glass.
Add all ingredients to a heavybottomed saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer for 10 minutes.
Remove from heat and let cool for half an hour.
Strain and keep refrigerated. It will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
Driftless Provisions is a small company in Viroqua, WI, that specializes in handcrafted salami. Co-founder Ryan Wagner highlights his passion for wild game in this classic holiday recipe. He adds cranberries to bring a refreshing tartness and pay homage to the Wisconsin winter fruit. You can adjust the level of tartness by adding more or less cran berries to the sauce.
serves: 4 prep time: 25 min active / 12 hrs inactive cook time: 2 hrs
1 quart orange juice
½ cup honey
5-6 pound duck, giblets and excess fat removed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp all-purpose flour
½ cup cranberries
1 orange, washed and thinly sliced
½ cup triple sec
1. Combine orange juice and honey in a large bowl. Add duck; cover and refrigerate overnight. Turn duck once or twice if not fully covered by marinade.
2. Preheat oven to 375°F.
3. Remove duck from marinade, reserving the liquid. Thinly score the duck skin with a sharp knife, taking care not to slice the flesh. Remove wing tips and season the bird well with salt and pepper. Place breast side up on a roasting pan rack. Roast for 10 minutes. Turn heat down to 350°F and roast for an additional 90 minutes.
4. About 30 minutes into the roasting process, remove 2 tablespoons of rendered fat from the roasting pan and place in a large saucepan. Add onions and sauté until golden brown, about 10 minutes.
5. Sprinkle flour over onions and stir well. Cook until flour is very lightly browned, another 1-2 minutes. Add in reserved marinade along with the cranberries and bring mixture to a boil. Continue cooking over medium heat until marinade thickens, 20-25 minutes.
by Ryan Wagner of Driftless Provisionssmooth. Strain any remaining solids from sauce and set sauce aside.
7. Remove cooked duck from the oven and discard all but a thin layer of rendered fat from pan. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F. Lay orange slices on the bottom of pan and return to oven. Cook for 10 minutes or until orange slices begin to brown. Remove duck and orange slices from pan and let rest while finishing the sauce.
8. Place roasting pan on stove top over medium heat. Add triple sec and carefully ignite. When flames extinguish, pour in reserved sauce and stir well, taking care to loosen any brown bits from bottom of roasting pan.
9. Carve or cut duck into halves or quarters with sharp scissors. Plate with orange slices around the edges. Ladle sauce over the top.
Notes: We tried the recipe with a whole, roasted farm-raised duck and also with a wild Mississippi River wood duck, harvested by Chef Kyle Julius. We seared the wild duck breasts quickly in a pan with a generous amount of duck fat or butter, 2 to 3 minutes per side and used the remaining duck for stock.
Sarah Woolworth had a knack for flavors well before she began her role in product development for local artisan jam company Quince & Apple. Formerly, she was the voice behind the popular Madison cooking blog, Wisconsin From Scratch. This recipe was originally developed for her blog and has been adjusted here to include leeks.
serves: 16-32 prep time: 30 min active / 2 hrs inactive bake time: 35 min
⅓ cup butter, melted
1 ⅓ cup milk
1 egg, beaten + 1 more for egg wash
1 Tbsp active dry yeast
4 cups flour
¼ cup sugar
1 ½ tsp salt
1 large leek, cleaned and finely chopped (about 2 cups)
1 Tbsp sesame seeds
Recipe by Sarah Woolworth of Quince & Apple
1. Combine cooled butter, milk and 1 beaten egg in a small bowl. Stir in yeast and let rest until yeast begins to bubble, about 5-10 minutes.
2. In a large bowl, mix together flour, sugar and salt. Add the milk mixture and stir until liquid is fully incorporated into the dough. Using your hands or a dough hook, knead dough until soft and springy, about 8 minutes. If dough is too wet to knead, add more flour in small increments until it’s workable.
3. Knead in the leeks until they are well combined with the dough. Coat a large bowl with oil, then place dough in the bowl, cover with plastic wrap or a cloth, and let sit in a warm place until approximately doubled in size, about 1 hour.
4. Grease two 9” round cake pans or one 9x13” baking pan.
5. Turn dough out onto a well-floured surface and divide in half. Divide each half into 16 equal pieces. Shape each piece of dough into a round ball, pinching any edges to seal. Arrange shaped dough into greased pan(s).
6. Cover the rolls with plastic wrap or a cloth, and let sit in a warm place to rise for another hour.
7. Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush the tops of the risen rolls evenly with beaten egg, and sprinkle with sesame seeds.
8. Bake rolls until golden brown on top, about 25-35 minutes. Turn out of pans onto a wire cooling rack to cool, then serve.
Sujhey Beisser is the chef behind Five Senses Palate, a Madison food blog that celebrates both the seasonal flavors of the Midwest and Sujheys’ Venezuelan roots. In this recipe, she enhances the natural sweetness of roasted butternut squash with a sweet and spicy compound butter. The butter is made with chipotles in adobo sauce, a staple in her pantry.
1 medium butternut squash
2 Tbsp olive oil
¾ tsp salt, divided
4 Tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 chipotles in adobo sauce, seeded and finely chopped
2 tsp adobo sauce, from the can
2 tsp maple syrup
1 tsp white wine vinegar
1 Tbsp fresh parsley, minced
Recipe by Sujhey Beisser of Five Senses Palate
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Peel the butternut squash and cut in half lengthwise. Use a spoon to remove the seeds. Place the squash cut side up on the prepared baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and season with ¼ teaspoon salt. Turn the squash over and bake cut side down for 25 minutes. Turn the squash over and finish baking cut side up until fork-tender, about 10 minutes longer.
3. While the squash roasts, prepare your butter. Make sure all the ingredients are at room temperature. Place the butter in a small bowl and stir with a spoon or rubber spatula until smooth. Add remaining ingredients along with remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Stir to combine.
4. Cut each half of the butternut squash lengthwise through the middle so you end up with four quarters.
5. To serve, place quarters cutside up on a serving platter. Spread a quarter of the maple chipotle butter on each quarter. Serve hot.
Recipe by Lauren Rudersdorf
of
Raleigh’s Hillside Farm and The Leek & The CarrotIt may just be because I’m a CSA vegetable farmer, but kale always tops my list of favorite salad greens. It can stand up to dense, hearty ingredients (like apples and roasted Brussels sprouts) in a way lettuce and baby greens just never can. Dress it at the beginning of preparing this recipe to be pleasantly surprised by the tenderness of this often misunderstood green.
For Salad:
1 pound Brussels sprouts, halved
1 Tbsp olive oil
½ tsp Kosher salt
2 bunches lacinato kale, stems removed and very thinly sliced
1-2 apples (preferably something sweet and crisp like a Honeycrisp), cored and thinly sliced
1 cup toasted mixed nuts (I used a mixture of pecans, pepitas and pistachios)
For Cinnamon Citrus Vinaigrette:
¼ cup olive oil
2 Tbsp red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice
1 Tbsp maple syrup
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp kosher salt
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss Brussels sprouts with olive oil and salt on a large baking sheet. Roast until crisp and lightly browned, about 10-15 minutes.
2. While the Brussels sprouts roast, whisk together all your vinaigrette ingredients together until smooth.
3. In a large bowl, toss kale with dressing and let sit for at least 10 minutes.
4. Add roasted Brussels sprouts, apple and nuts just before serving.
Maybe it’s a new recipe for the holiday spread, a bonfire gift exchange, or doorstep cookie drop. Whatever you’re up to, please share with us!
…and tag us to win on instagram @ediblemadison.
Each Thursday through New Years Day, we’ll feature a photo of the week and award a gift package from local purveyors.
Since everything looks a little different this year, why not mix it up with your holiday baking, too? Read on for a couple of classic recipes with funky twists.
This cake showcases an underrated holiday flavor trifecta—chocolate, orange, and cinnamon. These flavors work well together because they have different strengths. Chocolate is foundational; it carries the cake with fudgy confidence. Orange is light and citrusy, which gives the whipped cream an ethereal quality that softens the density of the cake. Cinnamon is the ribbon of spice on your tongue, tying every crumb of cake to its fluffy cream counterpart. Equal parts warm and fruity, this cake works just as well for your grand finale holiday dinner dessert as it does for a decadent afternoon treat with a cup of coffee the next day.
prep time: 25 minutes bake time: 45 minutes serves: 8
For cake: 3 eggs, separated 6 oz unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 ½ cup sugar
½ tsp vanilla extract
1 cup all-purpose flour
⅔ cup Dutch-processed cocoa
1 Tbsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp salt
1 tsp baking powder
¾ cup heavy cream
For whipped cream: 1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup powdered sugar
2 Tbsp Grand Marnier
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ medium orange, finely zested
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-inch round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment.
2. Whip the egg whites to a medium peak. Set aside.
3. Cream together the butter and sugar until fluffy.
4. Add the egg yolks one at a time to the butter mixture, followed by the vanilla extract.
5. In a separate bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients.
6. Add about half of the dry ingredients to the mixing bowl, mix until just combined, and then add half of the heavy cream. Repeat until all of the ingredients are just incorporated.
7. Scoop out about a quarter of the egg whites and mix into the batter to lighten the texture. Then, gently fold the remaining egg whites into the batter.
8. Pour the batter into your prepared pan and bake for about 45 minutes, or until the cake is set and a tester comes out clean.
9. Once the cake has cooled, combine the ingredients for the whipped cream and whip to a medium peak. Spread generously over the top of the cake and serve immediately.
To prepare in advance, bake the cake, wrap well, and freeze for up to 3 months. To serve, thaw the cake overnight in the refrigerator and top with the whipped cream.
In my family, sugar cookies are king during the holiday season. Or should I say queen—my grandmother’s pale cookies, just barely browned on the bottom and topped with flawless royal icing, were staples in our house. I’m all for tradition, but my culinary experience has taught me that a little experimentation never hurts. So this year, I’ll be making room on my table for these espresso nut shortbreads, too. They’re the perfect balance of nutty and sweet, rustic and luxurious. The toasted hazelnuts and bitter espresso will hit your taste buds first, closely followed by a rich wave of white chocolate. You might even find they’re the ideal complement to a classic sugar cookie.
prep time: 20 min + 30 min of rest time bake time: 20 min yield: about 24 cookies
1 ½ Tbsp instant espresso powder
8 oz unsalted butter, at room temperature
⅔ cup sugar
½ cup almond flour
½ cup local hazelnuts, toasted and finely ground
1 ¾ cup all-purpose flour
8 oz white chocolate, chopped ¼ cup heavy cream
1. Dissolve the espresso powder in 1 teaspoon of hot water.
2. Cream the butter and sugar together until fluffy.
3. Add the espresso mixture and combine.
4. Mix in the almond flour and ground hazelnuts.
5. Add the flour and stir until the dough just comes together. Finish kneading in any unincorporated crumbs by hand.
6. Chill for 30 minutes.
7. Roll the dough out to about ¼-inch thickness on a lightly floured surface, and use a cookie cutter to cut out shapes. Bake on a lined baking sheet at 325°F for 20 minutes, or until the cookies are set and just barely browned along the edges.
8. Meanwhile, to prepare the ganache, combine the cream and chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave for 30 seconds. Gently stir the mixture until the texture is smooth and shiny. Let cool at room temperature until the ganache is the stiffness of peanut butter.
9. Once cookies have fully cooled, scoop the ganache into a piping bag with a small star tip and decorate.
There aren’t many things that get higher “quality of life” marks than being in a fully realized and reciprocal relationship with your neighbors. Sure, we’ve all received a package or two on their behalf, watered plants, or cat- or dog-sat. But those neighborly relations in which you are able to exchange more than pleasantries and willingly extend more than common courtesy seem to be becoming more and more rare. Maybe the attention economy is taking up all of our bandwidth. Maybe the twin cults of individualism and privatization have wormed their way too far into our psyches. Whatever the cause, we are often so busy minding our own business and keeping up our own appearances that we forget our neighbors need keeping, too. This past spring, we saw people responding to the pandemic with concerted acts of connection and mutual aid. This first Winter of Covid, as we all retreat behind the double doors of hibernation and social distancing, I, for one, want to be among those who take the opportunity to shore up intention around checking in on each other and extending that kind of care. Building community can begin with being a good neighbor.
My timing ever-stellar, I will be air-hugging my current neighbors and moving across many states during not only a global pandemic and the most important election of our lifetime, but also, hey, the start of the holidays. By the time this goes to print I’ll be tucked into a new time zone and surrounded by good neighbors yet unknown. I intend to break in my new kitchen whipping up ways to initiate relationships of co-keeping with these folks. Food, after all, is my love language.
My dear Wisconsin neighbor and I exchanged food gifts frequently and with cherished informality. Sometimes it was dinner—the whole pot or just a foil-covered plate. But we also swapped jam, takeout containers refilled with chicken stock or soup, garden overflow, and whatever baking experiment we had going that weekend. Pretty much anything was fair game, and more than a few times one of us would show up unannounced on the other’s stoop insisting they try something right this minute. These exchanges aside, I usually like to choose food gifts
that present well and have broad appeal. Sometimes I will gift what I call “flavor bombs”—items that recipients can reach for when they are cooking themselves. Rosemary, chili, vanilla-scented sugar or kosher salt, or logs of compound butter wrapped in wax paper and kitchen twine. Or what about pretty little jars of lightly pickled root veggies or quick heirloom apple or pear butter? The inherently improvisational nature of these kinds of items pairs well with Wisconsin’s yearend produce.
Cookies, of course, are a great gift food. Every sane person loves them, they transport from stoop to stoop well, and they are a great way to highlight local Wisconsin ingredients. They don’t have to be fancy either. I have had a simple butter cookie—made with that yummy Organic Valley cultured butter—on my pop-up menu from the beginning and it’s always been one of my most popular items. I was thinking about that cookie the other day: It’s got a nice tender crumble and a rich buttery flavor that would work well with many ingredient combinations. I wondered: Could you adapt the recipe so that it could serve as a base for sweet or savory applications (kind of like how I treat my compound butters)? Intrigued by the idea, and by the thought of having buttery cheddar biscuits at hand to nibble on, I decided to give it a shot. Using what I already had, which luckily included a pound of Organic Valley cultured butter, I made a half batch each of the plain butter cookie, another sweet take with dried cherries and cardamom, and two savory versions: one with cream cheese and fresh herbs, and one with cheddar. Surprisingly, I liked them all (although I would have added more salt and a turn or two of fresh black pepper to the herbed cream cheese biscuit). I encourage experimentation and substitution. Get creative with the cheese. I used an extra-sharp cheddar and dry mustard but next time I might try Landmark Creamery Anabasque and a healthy pinch of nutmeg. Sub cranberries for cherries or toasted hazelnuts for the almonds or walnuts I used. And if you find a combo you really love, be a good neighbor and share it with me!
prep time: 20 min plus time to chill bake time: 14 min serves: 4-6
1 cup flour
½ tsp salt
1/3 cup sugar
¼ tsp baking powder
1 stick butter
1 egg yolk
turbinado sugar for coating
+ see recipe variations for additional ingredient
suggestions
1. Whisk flour, powder, and salt together in a medium bowl.
2. Beat butter and a scant ⅓ cup (65 g) sugar in bowl of mixer with paddle attachment until light and fluffy. Add yolk to combine. Add dry ingredients and mix on medium low until just combined.
3. Using plastic wrap, shape into a log then roll in turbinado sugar to coat. Rewrap, then chill or freeze until ready to use.
4. Preheat oven to 350°. Take the dough out and leave it on counter until you can slice it cleanly.
5. Evenly place ¼ - ½ -inch thick slices of dough on a parchment-covered sheet pan and bake for 12-14 minutes or until lightly browned.
Add 2 teaspoons cardamom to dry ingredients and ¼ cup chopped dried cherries to mixed dough.
Add ¼ teaspoon cayenne, ¼ teaspoon sharp paprika, and ½ teaspoon dry mustard (such as Coleman’s) to dry ingredients. Replace sugar with 4 oz finely shredded sharp cheddar. Roll dough log in walnuts, pecans, or hickory nuts.
Replace sugar with 4 oz cream cheese. Add 3 teaspoons of finely chopped fresh herbs (I used thyme and rosemary) to dough and combine. Roll in remaining herbs and sliced almonds or chopped hazelnuts. Maybe sprinkle sliced dough with sea salt before baking.
community can begin with being a good neighbor.
VIROQUA FOOD CO-OP
609 North Main St., Viroqua 608-637-7511 viroquafood.coop
WILLY STREET CO-OP
Willy East: 1221 Williamson St., Madison 608-251-6776
Willy West: 6825 University Ave., Middleton 608-284-7800
Willy North: 2817 N. Sherman Ave., Madison 608-709-5445 willystreet.coop
Please support the following businesses to experience the best local, seasonal, and sustainable products and services in the region.
BUSINESS & CONSUMER SERVICES BOOKKEEPING WITH COMMON CENTS 608-498-0292 bookkeepingwithcommoncents.com HEARTLAND CREDIT UNION heartlandcu.org
KAREN INNIS Century 21 Affiliate 608-799-1338
LAURA POE MATHES viroquanutritioncounseling.com
CATERING
ROOTED SPOON CULINARY
219 S. Main St., Viroqua 608-632-2120 rootedspoon.com
KITCHEN & TABLETOP CONVIVIO
122 North Lexington Street, Spring Green convivioshop.com
FARMS & FARM GOODS
Homestead Wisconsin Belleville 608-712-0997 homesteadwisconsin.com
FOOD, AGRICULTURAL & SUSTAINABILITY ORGANIZATIONS
COOK IT FORWARD cookitforwardmadison.com
FAIRSHARE CSA COALITION
303 S. Paterson St., Ste. 1B, Madison 608-226-0300 csacoalition.org
REAP FOOD GROUP
306 E. Wilson St., Ste. 2E, Madison 608-310-7836 reapfoodgroup.org
SLOW FOOD-MADISON slowfoodmadison.org
SUSTAIN DANE
211 S. Paterson St., #200, Madison 608-819-0689 sustaindane.org
VALLEY STEWARDSHIP NETWORK
124½ South Main St., Viroqua 608-637-3615 kickapoovsn.org
FOOD & BEVERAGE
BRIX CIDER 119 S 2nd Street 608-437-2749 brixcider.org
THE CIDER FARM 8216 Watts Rd, Madison 608-217-6217 theciderfarm.com
EMMI ROTH CHEESE 657 2nd St., Monroe rothcheese.com
FROMAGINATION 12 N. Carroll St, Madison 608-255-2430 fromagination.com
GATES & BROVI 931 E Main Street, Madison gatesandbrovi.com
GIANT JONES BREWING COMPANY 931 E Main Street, Madison giantjones.com
ISLAND ORCHARD CIDER 12040 Garrett Bay Rd., Ellison Bay 920-854-3344 islandorchardcider.com
MADISON SOURDOUGH 916 Williamson Street, Madison 608.442.8009 madisonsourdough.com
ORGANIC VALLEY
1 Organic Way, La Farge 888-444-MILK organicvalley.coop
PASTURE AND PLENTY 2433 Old University Avenue Madison 608-665-3770 pastureandplenty.com
WONDERSTATE COFFEE
1201 North Main St., Viroqua 608-637-2022 wonderstatecoffee.com
I remember the first time I met cheese...and I mean good, artisan cheese. It was love at first bite and I’ve been completely smitten ever since! Cheese is a true feast for the senses. The variety of scents, textures, colors, and flavors is astounding; sweet cream, mushroom, roasted brassica, fresh grass, toasted hazelnut...the list is infinite and the point is that I’m in love. So how do you know what to eat with which cheese when the options are limitless? Well, think of cheese pairing like a great partnership—you want to complement one another, even bring out the best in each other. So, when pairing cheeses—ask what you like about a cheese, and find something that enhances that particular element. For example, if you like the tart sweetness of a cheddar, eat it with dried cherries to enhance that flavor, only elevated and a touch more complex.
This Cheese-Lover’s Winter Picks
a crumbly aged blue
Deer Creek, Sheboygan, WI + ripe pears + Sauternes
a cave-aged Cheddar
Bleu Mont Dairy, Blue Mounds, WI + salted almond dark chocolate + Cabernet
an Appenzeller-esque cheese
Roelli Cheese Haus, Shullsburg, WI + spicy toasted pumpkin seeds and prosciutto + Stateline Distillery Barrel-Aged Gin
an aged Spanish-style cheese Roth Cheese, Monroe, WI + quince paste + Wisconsin Amber Ale
See more pairing ideas and a listing of fine cheese shops in our region at ediblemadison.com.
