Seawater Caramels

from Edible Monterey Bay: Summer 2017 | No. 24

Pea Tips Stir-fried with Garlic

Courtesy Yulanda Santos, pastry chef, Aubergine in Carmel

Makes about 300 60-gram pieces

When Yulanda and I worked together at the Post Ranch Inn we would occasionally use seawater in our recipes. I particularly loved this caramel recipe Yulanda came up with and asked her if I could include it in this article.

500 grams filtered seawater 800 grams sugar 660 grams corn syrup 500 grams heavy cream 160 grams butter 2 vanilla beans

Combine seawater, sugar and corn syrup in a saucepan. Cook on low heat to dissolve the sugar. en bring to a boil. Add the cream and cook approximately 3–4 minutes. Add in the butter bit by bit. Scrape vanilla beans then add to mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, until temperature reaches 248° F.

Pour onto a half baker’s sheet pan (about 13-by-18 inches) that has been lined with parchment paper and lightly buttered or coated with a nonstick spray. Cool completely or overnight before cutting.

ON THE FARM FEAR IN THE FIELDS

Increased immigration uncertainty deepens problems for local farms and farmworkers

BY ELIZABETH LIMBACH PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHELLE MAGDALENA

For third-generation farmer Maria Inés Catalán, agriculture is her culture. e 55-year-old owner of Catalán Family Farm in Hollister is carrying on a tradition passed down from her grandfather, who was a farmer in Mexico, to her father, who came to the United States as a contract laborer in the 1960s, and mother, who worked in American fields for 30 years.

Catalán was the last in her family to immigrate to the United States from their home state of Guerrero, Mexico. en 25 years old, she worked for large ag companies picking vegetables like lettuce, spinach and peppers. Several years later, she and her siblings tagged along with their mother to a talk about organic agriculture, and Catalán was hooked: She embarked on a threeyear training program at the Rural Development Center (the predecessor to the Salinas-based Agriculture and Land-Based Training Association, or ALBA), learning everything from operating heavy machinery to pest management.

When Catalán started her farm in the late ’90s, she says it was unheard of for a Latina woman to go from agricultural worker to organic farm owner. e two decades since haven’t been easy—farming rarely is, and aside from surmounting the challenges of being a non-Englishspeaking woman farmer, she faces the problems that plague all local farms, large or small, such as reliance on an immigrant workforce at a time when immigration reform is desperately needed, the resulting field labor shortage, extreme weather and thin margins. But today she farms 14 acres (down from 80 after a catastrophic well accident in 2014), reaching consumers through farmers’ markets and a CSA program, and selling directly to local restaurants. It’s a family business, with her children and grandchildren now learning the ropes of sustainable agriculture.

Catalán believes that farming is a way to honor her heritage while providing healthy food to her community. But following the election last November of President Donald Trump, who had run on an antiimmigrant agenda, and the actions he has taken since then to pursue it, she has new worries not only for her own business, but also for the local community and food system. “When he became president, I spent the whole night crying,” Catalán says, through an interpreter. And she’s seen her distress reflected in the farmworker community in the months since the president took office. “I see more people in fear, and I know farmworkers who have left [the country] willingly,” she says.

A CHANGED WORLD

It’s no secret that California’s multi-billion-dollar agriculture industry relies on a largely undocumented workforce—U.C. Davis estimates the total to be as high as 70%. But until January, few on the Central Coast gave it much thought. e last few decades have been

Catalán Family Farm’s a time when government and emMaria Inés Catalán ployers tended to “look the other way,” says Doug Keegan, an attorney and the program director of Santa Cruz County Immigration Project (SCCIP) in Watsonville. “It was some kind of tacit understanding that immigration would not come to our region and conduct large-scale indiscriminate raids,” Keegan says. “I think everyone is of the opinion now that that deal is off—that at any time now, there could be the return of large-scale raids.” Immediately after his inauguration, Trump followed through on campaign promises with a burst of executive orders aimed at cracking down on illegal immigration. Among the directives were pushes for an increase in border security—including construction of a wall and additional border agents; cutting federal funding to sanctuary cities (Santa Cruz and Monterey counties and the cities of Santa Cruz and Watsonville all have adopted sanctuary resolutions); an expanded definition of which undocumented residents are deportable; growing the ranks of Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) agents; a freeze on refugee entry; and the so-called “travel ban.” e already heated political climate became even more highly charged, and alarm spread through immigrant communities across the country—including in local fields. “ere is a lot of fear and panic in the farmworker community, especially here in the Pajaro Valley and Salinas Valley,” Keegan says.

Monterey County has the highest proportion of undocumented residents of any county in the state—13.5% of its population, according to the Public Policy Institute of California. Meanwhile, in Santa Cruz County, an estimated 21,000 residents and 83% of farmworkers are undocumented.

Concerns about the new administration’s immigration policies were amplified in February, when the Department of Homeland Security, in cooperation with the Santa Cruz Police Department, conducted a raid in Santa Cruz that captured gang members wanted for crimes. In the process—and unbeknownst to the SCPD, which has committed itself to not aiding immigration enforcement as part of Santa Cruz’s sanctuary status—undocumented residents not related to the investigation were also detained. “e raid that took place in Santa Cruz really increased the level of anxiety…and really created a lot of havoc,” says Keegan. “ere is concern about raids in the fields.” And these fears, sadly, may be causing this already vulnerable population to be too frightened to access basic services like health care and food assistance, or report crimes, putting it at even greater risk.

In the months following Trump taking office, SCCIP was flooded with hundreds of requests for guidance, legal advice and resources. Many of the families seeking assistance have been here for years, and often have mixed status, meaning, for example, parents are unauthorized but the children are legal residents. “ere is a lot of concern about what happens to their children if [the parents] are deported,” Keegan says.

Families are making sure their kids have passports and even liquidating their local assets, says Brett Melone, director of lending for California FarmLink. e organization, which connects independent farmers—including immigrants who began as farmworkers—with land, loans and business resources, is also waiting to see if it will be affected. “ere’s the issue of employing people who are undocumented, and then there’s the issue of lending to people who are undocumented,” Melone says. “e risk is slightly different, but it’s definitely something we have a heightened awareness about.”

Given the fact that immigration from Mexico has declined in recent years, and farms are already struggling to fill out their crews, the current administration’s approach to immigration could further handicap an already impaired ag industry—sending food prices soaring as a result. e good news is that this spring, the administration offered some promising comments about not targeting farmworkers with its enforcement actions. But thus far, the new cabinet’s aggressive anti-immigration policies and the absence of concrete new protections for farmworkers have at best confused the matter and at worst, contributed to a continuing decline in the farmworker population. Farms are holding a collective breath as they wait to see how they will be affected.

“Now is the time that a lot of the workers would normally return from Mexico to get started for the new season,” says Keegan, speaking in March. “Whether they’re able to return or not is a big question, given the increased security at the border.”

A PRE-EXISTING CONDITION

“It’s not just a Trump thing,” Jeff Larkey says on a bright March afternoon. “It’s something that’s been developing over some time.” e farmer was seated under a shade structure in the center of the smaller of two properties that comprise Route 1 Farms, in Santa Cruz. It was the warmest day of the year so far—the last in a string of sunny days sandwiched between rainstorms—and the fields had finally dried enough to allow for planting. Larkey and his crew were racing to finish before the rain started again. Larkey has been farming this land since 1981, when he and four friends each had an acre and a half. He’s the last farmer standing, and has seen his operation swell to 155 acres, in total, and then shrink down to its current 55. Sustainable farming is his calling—he says he can’t imagine doing anything else. Doug Keegan of the But it’s becoming harder every year. Santa Cruz County Immigration Project “It used to be that one out of every five or six years would be a bad year, depending on supply and demand, but now it seems like every other year is a battle just to break even,” he says. A labor deficiency is the main culprit: “Over the last five years, it’s been an increasingly difficult job to find enough farmworkers to do what needs to get done—what I mean by that is capable, professional farmworkers.” California farms have been struggling with an increasingly dire worker shortage for several years. At the root is the lack of comprehensive immigration reform that would allow capable workers to come to the United States to work in the ag industry. ere’s the H-2A guest worker visa program, which has echoes of the beleaguered Bracero Program of yesteryear and is largely opposed by farmworker advocates and often spurned as too expensive and problematic by farmers. But an increase in border security, slowing of immigration from Mexico and spiking prices for border crossing—plus this area’s high cost of living and lack of affordable housing—have led to a drought of workers. “We’re not getting an influx of new labor,” says Keegan. “People are really discouraged and prevented from entering.” A February piece about the California shortage in e New York Times reported that “the oncesteady stream of people coming from rural towns in southern Mexico has nearly stopped entirely.” Additionally, the fieldworkers who are here are aging, and it seems many of their children are not taking jobs in the fields. “I think most farmers will say in private, ‘Yeah, we’ve got a problem here,’” Larkey says. “But they aren’t necessarily willing to say it in public. ey’re unwilling to speak out for fear of becoming a target or losing part of their workforce.”

Exacerbating the problem, here in our nation’s Salad Bowl and berry epicenter, is that the crops are particularly labor intensive to produce. Immigration issues may threaten larger farms and those with unauthorized workers most, but this puts a squeeze on the already shrinking workforce—meaning farms must compete for fewer workers, and often come up short. e result includes unharvested fields, financial losses and shrinking production.

Last year, when it came time for Route 1 Farms to augment its year-round workforce with seasonal help, the labor was nonexistent. e farm wound up losing money. “ere were all these crops that just got swallowed up by the weeds,” Larkey says. “We couldn’t take care of and harvest them.” is year, to cope with the new labor landscape, Larkey planned to cut back on production, concentrating on crops that he knows he’ll be able to handle. “Our farm is in jeopardy because of it, no doubt,” he says.

LEARNING TO ADAPT

e shortage has forced farmers to be more creative in their efforts to attract and retain workers, says Melone, with California FarmLink. “What we started hearing a couple of years ago was that farmworkers…had more control and power in the relationship than the grower because they had other options,” he says.

Farmworker wages in California have gone up 28% since 2010, according to the Employment Development Department. (And there’s a minimum wage increase and overtime bill in the works.) But raising pay alone won’t solve the problem, says Jim Bogart, president of the Salinasbased Grower-Shipper Association, which represents more than 300 member farms and other agricultural businesses on the Central Coast, providing them with legal services, advocacy, labor relations and human resources support, education and other assistance. “Here on the Central Coast, we pay the highest of the highest wages, and we’re still having trouble,” Bogart says. “ere’s just a smaller pool of workers to provide the labor.”

Tanimura & Antle, a large Salinas-based grower known for its lettuces and brassicas, fell short on harvest staff in 2015 despite paying workers an average of $16–18 per hour plus productivity bonuses. After failing to harvest 200 acres because of it, “we needed to make sure that didn’t happen again,” says COO Tim Escamilla.

For a solution, the farm considered turning to the H-2A temporary worker program, which it utilizes at its Yuma, Ariz., location. Employers are required to provide housing for H-2A workers, so, in preparation, T&A built a new housing development on its Spreckels farm called Spreckels Crossing. Much to its surprise, the complex turned out to be a draw for workers who were already in the United States: “What we found was that once many of our domestic harvest employees who work with us in Yuma heard about Spreckels Crossing—and that it was new, comfortable, well-outfitted, safe and affordable—we started getting approached by people who wanted to come and work the Salinas season with us,” Escamilla says. As a result, T&A was able to meet its 2016 needs without using the H-2A program after all. As of this writing, T&A expected to fill out its crews again this year with farmworkers already in the country. Live Earth Farm in Watsonville, run by Santa Cruz Farm Bureau president Tom Broz, is a small grower of a diversity of organic crops, and has also struggled to find enough qualified labor. Last year, several profitable but labor-intensive crops, including green beans and cherry tomatoes, were left unpicked in the fields. “It was stressful,” Broz says. “It’s difficult if you have a set marketing strategy to have to adjust mid-season. We tried to minimize our losses by focusing only on those crops we hoped would fetch the highest price in the marketplace.”

From left, Tanimura & Antle’s Tim Escamilla and the Broz made further shortage-driGrower-Shipper Association’s Jim Bogart outside of T&As’ ven changes this year, such as choosnew farmworker apartments near Salinas. ing to scale back on raspberries, which are handpicked and laborious. Also new this year, Live Earth began hiring seasonal workers in March—several months before it normally would—to guarantee it would have the help when it needs it. As in past years, the farm will hold U-picks aimed at bringing in customers to help with the picking of its tomatoes. If the Salinas-based Western Growers Center for Innovation and Technology, in Salinas, has its way, automation will help solve the labor supply issue, which it frames on its website as a “man vs. robot” matter: “Will immigration reform be the answer to this problem or will robotic harvesting technologies be the future?” Hank Giclas, senior vice president of strategic planning, science and technology at Western Growers, points out that mechanization has been successfully adopted in bagged greens and salads, and he believes that berries are next. “I see automated harvesting of berries in the nottoo-distant future,” he says. But winning farmers over to automation, he says, could require them to adapt in ways they haven’t seemed willing to historically, such as changing what and how they grow. To help make the machines more accessible, he believes the industry may need to devise renting and sharing programs so that individual farmers will not have to buy the costly machinery. Some California farmers are already finding relief in machines— take, for example, a fig, persimmon and almond farmer profiled earlier this year in the Los Angeles Times who bought $600,000 of equipment when Trump was elected. But automation still seems like a pipe dream to many other growers—especially smaller ones. e options that currently exist are not as cost efficient or quick as human labor, and many

farmers, including Larkey, are skeptical that automation could ever be the answer. “It’s not going to solve the problem,” says Larkey. “If it does, you’re going to cut out many small- and medium-sized farms— run them out of business. ey wouldn’t be able to mechanize. And that’s not a good thing because you want those farms that grow lots of different crops.” is is exactly why there must be more research and development in this area, says Rep. Jimmy Panetta, who began representing the Central Coast in Congress in January following the retirement of Sam Farr. “e Salinas, Pajaro and San Juan valleys are all in the shadow of Silicon Valley, so we need to continue to build that bridge between our valleys and Silicon Valley,” the congressman says.

We’re lagging behind countries in Europe on the mechanization front because we’ve been able, historically, to rely on a workforce coming over our Southern border, he explains, adding that the United States may be forced to catch up given the changing political and socioeconomic atmosphere. “e immigration rate from Mexico has dropped, as you know, so who is going to fill that void?” he asks. “I do believe machinery can do that, but it’ll take investment.”

THE BIG PICTURE

When it comes to fixing the labor crisis, much of the ag industry sees immigration reform as the most crucial solution. “We’ve been in favor of comprehensive immigration reform since day one,” says Bogart, of the Grower-Shipper Association, “and as part of that reform, specifically with regard to agriculture, we need access to a legal and stable workforce.”

For farmers and the advocacy groups and legislators who support them, this means a few key reforms: legalizing the existing workforce and expanding, improving or replacing the temporary guest worker visa program, which Bogart describes as broken beyond repair. “at really needs to be fixed so that we have access to workers that would supplement our regular workforce at the time we need them and in the numbers we need them, without a bunch of bureaucratic red tape hoops to jump through,” Bogart says.

Bogart feels “hopefully optimistic” thanks to some assuaging comments out of Washington over the course of the spring. On April 25, President Trump issued an executive order aimed at improving agricultural and rural wellbeing that pledged to “ensure access to a reliable workforce and increase employment opportunities in agriculturerelated and rural-focused businesses.” A few days later, the newly appointed Secretary of Agriculture, Sonny Perdue, told a town hall in Kansas City that the ag industry shouldn’t be worried about the administration’s anti-immigration efforts. "He understands there are long-term immigrants, [including] undocumented immigrant laborers, [and] many of them are doing a great job contributing to the economy of the United States," Perdue said, referring to Trump in his remarks at a town hall meeting sponsored by the Agricultural Business Council of Kansas City on April 28, according to a report by Southwest Farm Press.

Collectively, Bogart says these statements “give us encouragement that immigration reform—or at least something to address the farm labor shortage—is forthcoming.”

A partial solution may come in the form of immigration legislation introduced on May 3 by Sen. Dianne Feinstein (D-Calif.) and a

handful of other democratic senators. Known as the Agricultural Worker Program Act of 2017, it would protect farmworkers from deportation efforts and provide a pathway to legal status and eventual citizenship. But while it does offer a way to safeguard the existing workforce, the bill does not address the need for guestworker program reform—and, in Bogart’s words, “We need both to fix the problem.” e bill had yet to be voted on as of press time.

Meantime, Bogart’s organization is helping its members navigate the current situation. In May, for example, along with meetings on topics like healthy soils and food safety, the Grower-Shipper Association hosted an immigration law workshop on the topic of federal employment verification forms and “What to do When ICE Shows Up.”

Santa Cruz County Immigration Project’s Keegan is not so encouraged by the administration’s recent comments. “e increased security at the border means fewer workers will be able to travel to fill the jobs required by the ag industry,” he says. “Farmworkers will continue to fear deportation until there is concrete policy or immigration reform that protects them.”

And as for Feinstein’s proposed legislation, his hope is measured.

“e Agricultural Worker Program Act, if it passed and became law, would go a long way to easing the labor shortage in agriculture. But without bipartisan support, its chances of passage, like all immigration reform efforts in the past 30 years, are slim,” Keegan said in early May.

Meanwhile, the administration’s messages are mixed. ICE’s arrests of noncriminal immigrants have doubled under President Trump, as reported by e New York Times. On March 30, Attorney General Jeff Sessions told Fox News that noncriminal immigrants like farmworkers “is not where ICE is focusing its effort at all.” But soon after, on April 11, Sessions gave a tough-on-immigration talk at the border, stating, among other things, that individuals who re-enter the country will now be charged with a felony, rather than a misdemeanor—effectively making returning undocumented farmworkers and other immigrants into criminals, and therefore subject to deportation.

“Employers want more than empty or sometimes contradictory promises,” Keegan says. “ose employers need a stable and experienced labor force that will not be targeted by an administration whose focus is deportations.” Even if the administration doesn’t directly target farmworkers—no raids in the fields, for example—policies like increased border security and targeting sanctuary cities could still put a strain on the farmworker population, thus weakening the already shrinking workforce. (Sessions himself has said that border entry is already down 60%, thanks to Trump.) e silver lining of the roiling immigration debate is that it’s finally being discussed, says Live Earth Farm’s Broz. “Maybe it takes an administration like the one we have right now to [make people] realize

what’s at stake,” he says. “[Maybe] enough people will put pressure on elected officials to implement comprehensive immigration reform. ings might come to a head where things have to get done.” e trick in getting the new administration’s ear, says Panetta, will be to drive home the economic argument—that the Central Coast’s $9 billion ag and nearly $3 billion hospitality industries, for instance, are inextricably linked to immigrant labor. “We know on the Central Coast how important immigration is to this area—without immigrants the economy would be devastated and the Central Coast would almost shut down,” Panetta says. “First thing is you’ve got to get Donald Trump out to the district, out to the fields,” Panetta continues. “is is a guy who grew up in Queens, who lived in a golden tower. e last person he picked in his cabinet was the secretary of agriFrom left, Darryl Wong, UCSC/CASFS; Tom Broz, Santa Cruz Farm Bureau/Live Earth Farm; Rep. Jimmy Panetta, 20th District; Mark Lipson, UCSC/CASFS; Jeff Larkey, Route 1 Farms; and Brise Tencer, Organic Farming Research Foundation culture. In the budget he put forward, he wants to cut 21% from the USDA. We need to speak to him on economic terms and let him know that the food he eats doesn’t just come from the store, but it comes from the fields. And in order to get from the field into your mouth, it takes people—especially with our specialty crops on the Central Coast.” Reckoning with immigration in agriculture requires everyone to care about where his or her food comes from and how it got to them, says Broz. After all, everyone—no matter their politics—needs to eat. “There is a disconnect that I feel we have between consumers and food producers [where] many people don’t trust or don’t even understand what it takes to bring food to your plate,” he says. “It’s a long-term effort to close this gap and we all need to pitch in, because down the road we will face more and more issues—whether it’s climate change, labor, all of those things. Ultimately we are all connected to agriculture because we all eat three times a day. We all have a stake in it." For Catalán, the owner of Catalán Family Farms, the motivation for consumers—and for that matter, the president—to understand where their food comes from and in particular, the effect immigration policy has on food, is clear. When asked what she would say to the president if she had the opportunity, she says, “Without Hispanics, there is no food for low-income people. Food prices will rise, and only the wealthy people will be able to afford it.” Elizabeth Limbach is a freelance journalist living in Santa Cruz, where she writes about culture, the food system, and the environment.

EDIBLE ICONS ALAN CHADWICK

He wore his brave state out of memory

BY PAUL A. LEE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHELLE MAGDALENA

is summer marks the 50th anniversary of the UC Santa Cruz Farm & Garden, the heart of what would become the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems, an internationally renowned leader in sustainable agriculture research and education. It was in 1967 that philosophy professor Paul Lee first envisioned a bountiful garden on campus, believing that the brand new university needed roots. Lee—who later went on to start the California Conservation Corps with Governor Jerry Brown and the Homeless Garden Project in Santa Cruz—hired English master gardener Alan Chadwick to create the garden. Edible Monterey Bay is delighted to publish Lee’s tribute to an extraordinary man.

He was called “the wizard” by radical philosopher Norman O. Brown, and referred to as such by avant garde composer John Cage, who went mushroom hunting with Alan Chadwick and then gave his mushroom reference library to UCSC because he was so enchanted by the man. A wizard he was although there are probably better terms to describe the charismatic power and influence he had on students who came under his spell.

It is 50 years since his arrival at the very moment when I had called upon Chancellor Dean McHenry to support a student garden for the campus in line with “flower power,” a popular slogan of the 1960s. e chancellor thought it was a good idea. And then came Chadwick as though he had dropped from the sky like Ziggy Stardust. We met at the Cowell College fountain and he said yes when I asked him if he would do our garden. e next day he went out and bought a spade and picked out the slope below Merrill College and started to dig. e rest is history.

Chadwick reintroduced “organic” under the theme of French intensive and biodynamic food and flower production, both of which eschewed the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. No more industrial society procedures heralded as “better living through chemistry.” I knew we were living in a historical period defined as the late stage of the self-destruction of industrial society; I and others wanted out. Chadwick showed us a way.

Here’s how it goes. Organic nature was supplanted by organic chemistry in the early part of the l9th century through the artificial synthesis of urea. It is a date you should know—1828. Friedrich Wöh-

He replanted the vital root of existence in the late stage of the self-destruction of industrial society

ler artificially synthesized urea by heating up ammonium cyanate and getting what he thought was the same substance the kidney produced—urea—the nitrogen part of urine. It made great fertilizer and was the basis for the plastics industry (poly-ure-thane). e move was made from the field to the lab. It didn’t take long before factories were called plants! And so we got industrial society as a world superior to the given world of nature. Organic became a thing of the past—after all, chemicals were chemicals when you reduced everything to matter, which is exactly what reductionist physicalist science has done. So what’s the big deal? e long dislocation from reality had begun. Artificial, synthetic, virtual, imitation, simulation, like… Count how many times you hear “like” in conversations today and think of it as the expression for the dislocation.

So organic had to be re-discovered and re-affirmed and that’s what Chadwick brought to the campus and eventually to the region.

Moreover, he brought a reverence for nature that students were looking for. You might even call it sacramental. A lot of them had seen eternity in a grain of sand thanks to LSD. ey had undergone a transformation of consciousness and Chadwick was the mentor who would show them a new way in his reliance on strictly organic procedures, in his relation to creation. He espoused an organic worldview. I guess you could call it neo-vitalist where life was honored and respected and nurtured.

He introduced me to an economy of gift. Everything he grew he gave away and never wanted money. He hated the commercialization of food production as much as he hated mono-cropping and machines. He did hand work. He was an original artisan when it came to gardening. An economy of gift. What a nice ring to the phrase. It meant relying on the abundance nature provides—the principle of plenitude. Give and more will be given to you, pile it up and let it spill over your lap. I came to call it too much zucchini.

Ah, Chadwick, you were as much a trial as you were a gift, thanks to your awful temper tantrums left over from your experience on a minesweeper in the second World War. I was always willing to forgive your neurasthenia, and you taught me the difference between idiosyncratic display and institutional process. You were a forced fit when it came to the university, and it showed in the force of your fits.

And then it was over; short lived, when you think of the couple of years involved. But what an impact Chadwick made. I have an orotund way of putting it: He replanted the vital root of existence in the

late stage of the self-destruction of industrial society as a world above the given world of nature. Yes, he did.

His influence was enormous. I think of the students who went on to become gardeners and farmers and carried on the organic lifestyle Chadwick revealed to them; Alice Waters and Chez Panisse; my nephew, Ben Ford, and his Chadwick restaurant in Santa Monica; Baker Roshi, who took Chadwick in after he left UCSC and had him start the Zen Center Farm at Green Gulch; Jerry Brown, during his first stint as governor, waiting to go in to hear Chadwick on his deathbed at Green Gulch Farm; Richard Wilson and the garden at Covelo; Betty Peck and the garden at Saratoga. ey all testify to the magic and mystery of this man and his devotion to nurturing the earth and reaping its harvest.

How I wish I could hear him tell again and act out the nuptial flight of the queen bee and the fairy tales of the herbs, rosemary and calendula. We cherish your memory Alan, and all you gave to us; our gratitude knows no bounds.

Chadwick put Shakespeare’s Sonnet 15 on the wall next to his bed before he died. Shakespeare composed it for him:

UC Santa Cruz will hold a three-day First Fifty Celebration of the garden anniversary on July 28–30. It includes an opening reception on Friday evening, a Saturday morning Fog Rise gathering at the Alan Chadwick Garden, a symposium with urban farming guru Karen Washington, a banquet in the Hay Barn with Alice Waters, guided tours and gardening workshops. For more information, see the website: www.casfs.ucsc.edu/about/50th/events.html.

When I consider every thing that grows Holds in perfection but a little moment, at this huge stage presenteth nought but shows Whereon the stars in secret influence comment; When I perceive that men as plants increase, Cheered and cheque’d even by the self-same sky, Vaunt in their youthful sap, at height decrease, And wear their brave state out of memory; en the conceit of this inconstant stay Sets you most rich in youth before my sight, Where wasteful Time debateth with Decay, To change your day of youth to sullied night;

And all in war with Time for love of you,

As he takes from you, I engraft you new.

Paul A. Lee is a retired professor of philosophy, religious studies and the history of consciousness and an Episcopalian-Lutheran pastor. He is also the visionary creator of several community activist organizations and remains an engaged leader of two of them, the Homeless Garden Project and the Association of Faith Communities of Santa Cruz County.

Home-cooked Indian cuisine can be an intimidating concept. To begin with, cracking the code to combinations of unique spices that most Westerners have never heard of—ingredients like fenugreek, asafoetida (the root of a plant similar to wild fennel, used powdered) and ajwan (tiny berries somewhat like coriander that add bitterness)—can be a daunting task. Even the flours have different names. And often it seems that cooking an authentic Indian meal demands a trip to a specialty grocery store in San Jose—where the largest population of Indians outside of India resides. It’s a great resource, but feels like a long way to go to procure ingredients for dinner. ere is one trick, however, that can make your meal taste like the real thing without too much fuss: Serving Indian pickles will add authentic flavor to even a simple meal of basmati rice and dal.

Pickles are an essential part of any Indian platter and are served as a condiment with most meals on the subcontinent. ey have an intense flavor and can add an explosion of true Indian taste to your table. A friend who went to boarding school in India says she loved how everyone would bring a jar of homemade pickles at the beginning of each semester and she would be able to try pickles from every region. It was a cultural experience every time she ate.

You may purchase a variety of pretty good pickles at an Indian grocery store, providing you with a good place to start to acquire a taste for the strong spices and salt typical of Indian cuisine. One of my favorite markets is the New India Bazar in Santa Clara, which stocks a good selection of organic bulk items and exotic produce. It can feel like a quick trip to India with the colors, smells and the long checkout queue that snakes through the store. I’m usually the only non-Indian there.

Depending on the region and the season, Indian pickles are made out of all sorts of fruits and vegetables that do not grow in North America, such as amla fruit. But one of my favorite kinds of Indian pickle is made with lemons and is a standout. It is sort of a distant cousin to Moroccan preserved lemons as they are both cured with salt, but that is just the beginning.

Interestingly, Indian pickles are the only pickles in the world that are cured in direct sunlight. e sun helps break down the hard fruit or vegetables and encourages the oils to penetrate the surface. ere are a lot of recipes out there for quick Indian pickles, but one should not be tempted to take these shortcuts. It takes time to really develop the sourness of the pickle that balances the flavors of spicy, salty, bitter and sweet. ey are all there if you give them enough time to develop. Patience is a quality accordant with the authentic Indian experience.

Jordan Champagne is the co-owner and founder of Happy Girl Kitchen Co. in Pacific Grove and last year took a one-month sabbatical in India, where she practiced making pickles and learned to prepare delicious Indian dishes that she shares at occasional pop-up dinners and cooking workshops.

INDIAN LEMON PICKLES

Courtesy Jordan Champagne, proprietor, Happy Girl Kitchen Co. in Pacific Grove

Makes about 3 cups

When I was first learning to make Indian pickles I quickly realized that there is no standard way. It seems every household uses a different technique. I have developed a method that maintains the fresh flavor of the lemons and adds a strong combination of exotic spices. ese pickles are sure to add a bang to any dish! ey will last years on the shelf when cured properly.

4 lemons (any variety) 1 tablespoon dried chiles (or 3 fresh chiles) ¼ cup of fresh ginger, peeled and grated 2 tablespoons turmeric 1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds 1⁄3 cup pure sesame oil (not toasted) 1 teaspoon mustard seeds 2 tablespoons salt 1 teaspoon asafoetida

Slice lemons into quarters and remove as many seeds as possible (if a few slip by, it is OK). en slice each quarter into three. Add the salt to the lemons and mix thoroughly. Next, dry roast the fenugreek seeds and grind into a powder (I use a coffee grinder that I designate for spices or you can use a mortar and pestle). Add the fenugreek to the lemons.

Finely chop the ginger and chiles, if using fresh chiles. Heat oil in a tiny pan. Traditionally a kadi is used, which is a small cast iron pan. Add mustard seeds to the oil and once they start popping, add the asafoetida, turmeric, chiles and ginger. Cook for 2 minutes and then remove from heat and let cool. Add to the lemons and completely mix in.

Place the lemons in a quart-sized jar and cover with a loosely fitting lid or cheesecloth. Put jar somewhere in the house with direct sunlight. Shake the contents of the jar every day to mix thoroughly. Pickles should be ready in 1 month, or when the flavors are completely enmeshed in one another. e pickles will keep for 1 year out of the fridge, but can be refrigerated once you start using them.

Indian pickles are the only pickles in the world that are cured in direct sunlight.

Dine Local GUIDE

Jacks Monterey at the Portola Hotel & Spa has been remade with a whole new approach to its cuisine and new décor to match. For more, see p. 67.

All of these restaurants emphasize local ingredients, and they also advertise in Edible Monterey Bay! Stop by for a free issue, and tell them that we sent you!

APTOS

Carried Away

7564 Soquel Drive • 831.685.3926 www.carriedawayfoods.com A cozy, green-certified, take-out or eat-in café, Carried Away has a menu that changes weekly and features primarily organic, locally sourced ingredients. Owner/chef Tom McNary worked for many years at Chez Panisse, and his dishes reflect the seasons. Soups, salads, entrées and desserts are all made freshly daily. in-crust pizzas available on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday. Open M–F 11am–7pm, Sa 11am–5pm, Su closed.

BIG SUR

Sierra Mar at Post Ranch Inn

47900 Highway 1 • 831.667.2800 www.postranchinn.com Executive chef Elizabeth Murray and executive pastry chef Ben Spungin use exceptional ingredients, many grown on site, to deliver a unique gastronomic take on the Big Sur experience. Dinner features a 4-course prix fixe menu and the 9-course Taste of Big Sur tasting menu; lunch offers 3-course and 5-course options. Choose from almost 3,000 different wines from the Wine Spectator Grand Award winning wine list. Arrive before sunset for breathtaking views from this iconic restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows and cliff-side terrace. Open daily for lunch 12:15–2:30pm, dinner 5:30–9pm.

CAPITOLA

East End Gastropub

1501 41st Avenue • 831.475.8010 www.eastendgastropub.com East End Gastropub is the newer baby sister to the popular West End Tap & Kitchen, but aside from sharing owners and chefs, East End’s beautiful, recently renovated modern interior is entirely different from West End and offers its own robust, sophisticated, beerfriendly menu. Chef Geoffrey Hargrave has created dishes that are familiar yet innovative, such as the “Kentucky fried” duck leg or the quinoa crusted Fijian albacore. e restaurant also offers its own brews, along with local rotating taps and a strong wine list. Open daily 11:30am–10pm.

e Penny Ice Creamery

820 41st Avenue • 831.204.2523 www.thepennyicecreamery.com Open Su– noon–9pm, F–Sa noon–10pm See e Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.

Shadowbrook

1750 Wharf Road • 831.475.1511 www.shadowbrook-capitola.com A Santa Cruz County landmark since 1947, the worldfamous Shadowbrook continues to be an overwhelming favorite with locals and visitors alike. Its fine food, extensive wine list and unparalleled setting and ambiance have earned it numerous awards, including Northern California’s “Most Romantic Restaurant” and “Best Date Night Restaurant.” Gift cards and reservations available online. Open M–F 5–8:45pm, Sa 4:30–9:45pm, Su 4:30–8:45pm.

Andre’s Bouchee

Mission Street between Ocean and Seventh avenues 831.626.7880 • www.andresbouchee.com Chef Benoit Petel utilizes the bounty of the Monterey Bay with the best seasonal ingredients in the classic and creative French cuisine he prepares at this warm and elegant restaurant in downtown Carmel. Standouts include Monterey abalone with gnocchi, wild mushrooms and seaweed; escargot with garlic parsley butter, hazelnuts and puff pastry; and a classic duck confit with lentils. Petel works with Colleen from Savor the Local and the Monterey County Farmers’ Markets to obtain the freshest ingredients. Open for lunch F–Su noon–2pm and nightly for dinner 5:30–9:30pm. Wine tasting F–Su noon–5pm. Wine hour menu served at the bar Su– 5:30–7pm.

Aubergine

Monte Verde Street at Seventh Avenue • 831.624.8578 www.auberginecarmel.com Located within the romantic L’Auberge Carmel, a visit to Aubergine feels like a trip to Europe. Executive chef Justin Cogley was named one of Food & Wine’s best new chefs of 2013. He has been nominated multiple times for a James Beard award and it’s no wonder—he’s an eloquent and imaginative interpreter of fine seasonal ingredients. Executive pastry chef Yulanda Santos delights with stunning and inventive desserts. Open daily 6–9:30pm.

Basil Seasonal Dining

San Carlos Street between Ocean and Seventh avenues (Paseo Courtyard) 831.626.8226 • www.basilcarmel.com “Organic, local and seasonal” are not just buzzwords at Basil. is cozy restaurant in the Paseo Courtyard was awarded three stars from the national Green Restaurant Association. General manager/owner Denis Boaro and chef/owner Soerke Peters turn out intensely flavorful dishes and provide a full bar with a great selection of California wines. Many vegan entrées available. Heated, dog-friendly outdoor seating. Open daily for lunch and dinner from 11:30am, Su brunch 11am–3pm.

Cantinetta Luca

Dolores Street between Ocean and Seventh Avenue 831.625.6500 • www.cantinettaluca.com Prepared in the Tuscan tradition, using the freshest and simplest ingredients sourced locally or imported from Italy, this authentic Italian eatery serves housemade breads, pastas and sauces, hand-cut premium meats and antipasti with the restaurant’s artisanal salume. Guests are served in an atmosphere of warm tones and dark woods, which invites lingering over a second glass of wine or another bite of tiramisu, apple crostata or cheese. Dinner Su– 5–9pm, F–Sa 5–10pm; Lunch F–Su noon–3pm.

Carmel Belle

Doud Craft Studios San Carlos Street at Ocean Avenue 831.624.1600 • www.carmelbelle.com is bright, airy restaurant is a favorite gathering place for anyone looking for a casual atmosphere and a stellar breakfast, lunch or dinner. e chefs here source only the best local and organic ingredients for their seasonally driven menu. Sign up online to receive Belle’s pop-up calendar and to hear about its special events. Enjoy your meal next to the fire pit or take advantage of the curbside pickup service to take it home. Open W–Su 8am–8pm, M–Tu 8am–5pm.

7250 Carmel Valley Road • 831.625.6219 www.ebfarm.com/ourstory At its Carmel Valley Farm Stand, Earthbound Farm’s certified organic kitchen delights with housemade soups, sandwiches, baked goods and an expanded salad bar. Experience picturesque Carmel Valley as you stroll through Earthbound’s organic gardens and learn about its pioneering local heritage and commitment to organic integrity. Food is available for take-away or a relaxing afternoon at tables in the gardens. Groceries also are available for replenishing your pantry. Watch Facebook for special events and classes! Open M–Sa 8am–6:30pm, Su 9am–5:30pm.

Edgar’s at Quail

8000 Valley Greens Drive 831.620.8910 • www.quaillodge.com Taste the fresh ingredients harvested from local organic farms that are hand selected by Edgar’s executive chef Brian Kearns and exquisitely prepared by his culinary team into the savory dishes available on its new menus. Set in the clubhouse of Quail Lodge & Golf Club, Edgar’s restaurant and bar features a casual elegance with its indoor and outdoor fireside dining located alongside the natural backdrop of the golf course and Santa Lucia Mountains. Edgar’s at Quail is proudly guided in the principles of sustainability by the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch and focuses on local farm-to-table options. Open daily 11am–9pm.

Il Grillo

Mission Street between Fourth and Fifth avenues 831.238.9608 • www.ilgrillocarmel.com e intent behind this sister restaurant to Carmel’s popular La Balena is to create a more casual spot where diners can gather for a glass of wine, simple pastas and small plates. Enjoy a housemade Italian cookie or dessert after your meal, or put in an order to bring some treats home. Prices are also lower than at La Balena, but the same chef is creating the dishes, so expect impeccable sourcing and delicious results. Garden seating available. Open M–F 11:30am–9pm, Sa 5–9pm.

La Balena

Junipero Street between Fifth and Sixth avenues 831.250.6295 • www.labalenacarmel.com Winner of EMB’s 2014 Local Heroes award for Best Chef/Best Restaurant, La Balena has a seasonal menu that changes daily but always expresses an inventive take on the rustic food of a Tuscan trattoria. e outstanding culinary team sources ingredients from local organic farms and prepares the restaurant’s pastas and slowcooked meats from scratch daily. Owners Anna and Emanuele Bartolini have created an excellent Italian wine list and a warm, inviting atmosphere, complete with back garden seating. Open Tu–Su 5–10pm.

CARMEL VALLEY

Lokal/Cachagua General Store

13762 Center Street 831.659.5886 (Lokal)/831.659.1857 (CGS) www.lokalcarmel.com Father and son Michael and Brendan Jones are now under one roof with the relocation of Michael’s legendary Monday night dinners, known as the Cachagua General Store, to Brendan’s Lokal restaurant in Carmel Valley Village. e two restaurants will continue to operate independently, both of them emphasizing local and organic ingredients but each remaining the exuberantly creative

and distinct foodie oasis regulars have come to know and love. CGS is open 10am–12:30pm on Sundays and 6pm–midnight on Mondays. Lokal’s hours are 10am–2:30pm on Saturdays and 6pm–closing –Su.

Lucia Restaurant & Bar

Bernardus Lodge & Spa • 415 W. Carmel Valley Road 831.658.3400 • www.bernarduslodge.com/wine-cuisine Indulge in artisanal California country cuisine, awardwinning wines and an expansive heated outdoor terrace with the finest views of all Carmel Valley restaurants at Lucia Restaurant & Bar. Named for the Santa Lucia mountain range and wine appellation that beckons to the south, renowned chef Cal Stamenov serves both his signature tasting menu and dishes à la carte. Wine list is equally notable. A private Chef’s table and wine cellar also available. Open daily 7am–2:30pm and 5–10pm.

Trailside Café and Beer Garden

3 Del Fino Place • 831.298.7453 www.trailsidecafecv.com ose needing to refuel after a day on the trail can head to Trailside Café for home-cooked meals in Carmel Valley. Beer lovers get to choose from 16 on tap, and sports fans can watch games on the HDTVs. Locals are treated to specials on Mondays and Tuesdays. On the weekends enjoy live music in the beer garden. Check out the calendar on its website for more details. Dog friendly in outdoor areas. Open daily 8am–9pm.

DAVENPORT

Whale City Bakery

490 Highway 1 • 831.423.9009 www.whalecitybakery.com Davenport’s artistic charm and oceanside location make it hard not to slow when you pass through on Highway 1. ose in the know always stop at the historic Whale City Bakery. e bakery tempts with housemade breads, pastries, muffins and pies—and that’s only the beginning! Whale City also offers a full restaurant that serves up comfort classics and other hearty dishes. e bar and live music every ursday attract a loyal local following. Open daily 6:30am–8pm.

FELTON

e Cremer House

6256 Highway 9 • 831.335.3976 www.cremerhouse.com Housed in the oldest building in Felton, e Cremer House showcases progressive, made-from-scratch food and drinks with a nod to its historic mountain surroundings. is alehouse has filled a niche in the San Lorenzo Valley, bringing to this restored and revered property craft beer, cider and wine on tap, and combining it with organic and sustainable fare made with local ingredients. Open Tu–, Su 11:30am–9pm, F–Sa 11:30am–9:30pm.

HOLLISTER

Grillin & Chillin Alehouse and Brewery

401 McCray Street, Suite B24 • 831.637.2337 Grillin & Chillin’s downtown location with an on-site brewery is your go-to spot for a burger and beer. With 40 craft beers on tap and just as many in bottles, there’s something for everyone. A favorite spot among bikers and other Hollister locals, the alehouse has a friendly and knowledgeable staff that can help you pick a pint from the long list of brews. Open Su–W noon–10pm, –Sa noon–11pm.

3650 San Juan Road • 831.636.1010 www.relaxgrillinchillin.com Grillin & Chillin’s Roadhouse location is your stop for steaks, burgers, craft beer, and whiskey. With 30 beers on tap (including many locals brews), 100 more in bottles, and a long list of small batch bourbon and whiskies, there are plenty of options to help wash down your fish tacos, Cowboy Burger or 16-ounce bone-in ribeye named the “Tomahawk.” Catch the game on one of the 5 TVs or relax on the covered patio. Open Su– 11:30am–9pm, F–Sa 11:30am–10pm.

MONTEREY

e Club Room

2 Portola Plaza 831.649.2698 www.portolahotel.com/dining/the-club-room e Club Room offers a fresh, seasonal, buffet featuring made-to-order omelets, assorted housemade pastries and muffins, sliced cold cuts, fine artisan cheeses, bottomless mimosas and much more. Dine in the cozy fireside dining room, or breathe in the fresh coastal air on the outdoor, pet-friendly, heated patio. Open for breakfast daily 6–11am.

e C restaurant + bar

InterContinental e Clement Monterey 750 Cannery Row • 831.375.4500 www.ictheclementmonterey.com Step into the C restaurant + bar, and the bustle of Cannery Row will seem like a world away. Elegant yet relaxed, the C offers stunning ocean views from its floor-to-ceiling windows and oceanside deck; Executive Chef Matt Bolton provides equally gorgeous food, imaginatively prepared from sustainably sourced seafood, meats and produce. Creative cocktails include a design-your-own Bloody Mary, as well as sparkling wine flights from around the world. Open daily 6:30am–10pm, Happy Hour 4–7pm Su–. Live Music F–Su noon–3pm, –Sa 6–9pm.

Jacks Monterey

2 Portola Plaza 831.649.7830 • www.jacksatportola.com Jacks Monterey offers “California Cultural Cuisine” and seats guests beneath the trees in a glass-topped atrium where they can enjoy the sun by day and the stars at night. Reflecting the palette of the Monterey Peninsula, the new space is decorated with ocean blues, driftwood browns and the greens of coastal flora. Chef Danny Abbruzzese’s new seasonal menu provides a melting pot of flavor profiles from the entire California coastline and other exotic locales. Creative spins on cultural dishes with locally sourced ingredients include Goat Moussaka and Hamachi Crudo. Open for lunch daily 11:30am–4pm; Dinner daily 4–11pm.

Peter B’s Brewpub

2 Portola Plaza 831.649.2699 • www.peterbsbrewpub.com Experience Monterey’s original craft brewery, Peter B’s Brewpub, located behind the Portola Hotel & Spa. Enjoy great food and award-winning handcrafted beers. Watch your favorite game on one of 18 HDTVs or enjoy the pet-friendly heated patio with fire pits. Peter B’s is open daily with nightly Happy Hour from 4–6:30pm. Open Su 11am–11pm, M– 4–11pm, F 4pm–12am, Sa 11am–12am.

475 Alvarado Street 831.200.3474 • www.thepokelab.com Serving fresh, light and sophisticated fast food made from local, sustainable ingredients, e Poke Lab has revamped the Monterey lunch scene. ree signature bowls include two with a variety of fresh tuna and salmon and one vegetarian option. Build the rest of your bountiful meals with a choice of a rice or salad and varied toppings and sauces. Sushi burritos are also available; order online for quickest pick-up. An official Seafood Watch partner restaurant, e Poke Lab serves only seafood rated sustainable. Open M–Sa 11am–8pm. Follow instagram for Wednesday’s food truck mobile locations.

Schooners Coastal Kitchen & Bar

400 Cannery Row • 831.372.2628 www.schoonersmonterey.com Sit out on the oceanside patio if you can, but it’s still considered seaside dining if you are seated inside the dining room, whose polished wood, bay windows and seafaring décor seem like the interior of a sailing ship. Schooners Coastal Kitchen & Bar serves executive chef James Waller’s sustainable seafood and prime steaks. e restaurant takes a creative Californian approach to soups, fresh salads, sandwiches and wood-fired flatbreads, paired with a diverse wine list featuring local favorites. Open daily 6:30am–11pm.

Stone Creek Kitchen

465 Canyon del Rey Boulevard • 831.393.1042 www.stonecreekkitchen.com A glass-walled kitchen in the middle of a spacious cookware and tabletop shop turns out imaginative Mediterranean deli treats and sweets to take away or eat under the market umbrellas outside. Sandwiches, salads and entrée options change seasonally. Don’t miss Paella Fridays! Cooking classes, tasting events and dinner parties are hosted in the intimate teaching kitchen. Find a schedule of upcoming events on the website. Open M–F 10am–7pm, Sa 10am–4pm, Su closed.

TusCA Ristorante

Hyatt Regency Monterey Hotel & Spa 1 Old Golf Course Road • 831.657.6675 www.hyattregencymonterey.com Blending the beauty and bounty of Tuscany and California, and inspired by the hearty appetite and abundance of southern Italy, TusCA serves up seasonally sourced menus made from fresh, local produce, meats and fish. TusCA chef Steve Johnson delights diners with meals both intriguing and indulgent, particularly those baked in his wood-burning oven or served with the housemade pastas. Open daily for breakfast and lunch 6:30am–2pm, dinner 5:30–9pm Tu–Sa.

e Wharf Marketplace

290 Figueroa Street at Wharf No. 2 and Del Monte Avenue 831.649.1116 • www.thewharfmarketplace.com e Wharf Marketplace is Monterey’s newly remodeled, go-to fresh, local market with free 24-minute parking. Features the best-grown Salinas Valley lettuces and vegetables, artisanal cheeses, wines and draft beer. e Café & Grab-n-Go selections are designed to satisfy your cravings for every meal. Catering made easy for any staff breakfast or lunch and ready-to-take home dinners are sure to delight. Comfortable indoor/outdoor seating available. Open daily 5:30am–7pm; Taste It ursdays offer complimentary wine and beer tasting with onebite wonders 4:30–6:30pm.

e Haute Enchilada

7902 Moss Landing Road • 831.633.5843 www.hauteenchilada.com Gourmet Latin fusion dishes await those who venture off Highway 1 and into this fanciful restaurant with its large gallery out back that also serves as a venue for entertainment and private events. Fiesta-colored walls in the restaurant are adorned with enormous gold leaf paintings. Try dishes like Peruvian Ceviche, Squash Blossom Empanadas or the popular Pescado Cubano— line-caught red snapper in a pistachio/pumpernickel crust served with tomatillo avocado sauce. Ingredients are all natural, organic as much as possible. Open daily 11am. Last seating at 8pm.

PACIFIC GROVE

Happy Girl Kitchen Co.

173 Central Avenue • 831.373.4475 www.happygirlkitchen.com e menu changes daily at Happy Girl’s airy and bright Pacific Grove café, but the food is always delicious, organic and reasonably priced. e sandwich of the day is $6.50, and a bowl of the soup of the day is $6. To drink, you’ll find kombucha on tap and freshly roasted Four Barrel coffee brewed to perfection. Homemade baked goods include a daily scone, cookies and turnovers. Open daily 7:30am–3pm.

Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar

542 Lighthouse Avenue • 831.920.2662 www.jeninni.com Inspired by flavors of the Mediterranean, Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar’s rich and decadent cuisine takes you on a journey from Morocco and Spain to the Levant, birthplace of owner and sommelier, amin Saleh. Don’t miss chef Matthew Zimny’s crispy octopus, lamb burger with signature eggplant fries and occasional paella nights and other special events. Open Su– 4–9pm, F–Sa 4–10pm. Happy Hour—”sips and snacks”—4–6pm every day. Closed W.

Passionfish

701 Lighthouse Avenue • 831.655.3311 www.passionfish.net If you’re looking for a restaurant with playful, spectacular food and a scrupulous commitment to sustainability, this green-certified restaurant is hard to rival. e elegant dining room is celebratory yet relaxed, and the award-winning wine list features many sustainable names and is priced at retail. Chef Ted Walter’s menu is ever changing with the seasons, but always includes delicious organic local produce, inventive slow-cooked meats and an array of sustainable seafood choices. Open daily 5pm.

Point Pinos Grill

79 Asilomar Boulevard • 831.648.5774 www.ptpinosgrill.com With sweeping views of the coast and a relaxed clubhouse vibe, this scenic spot has blossomed under the direction of executive chef Dory Ford. For breakfast, choose from huevos rancheros, chicken fried steak and an array of tasty omelets. For lunch through dinner, enjoy dishes like Ale-Steamed Mussels and Crispy Fried Dry Rubbed Jerk Chicken Wings paired with craft beers, local wines or a house specialty cocktail. Open M–F 7:30am–8pm, Sa 7am–8pm, Su 7am–6pm. Happy Hour is M–F 4–6pm.

e Bench

e Lodge at Pebble Beach, 1700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining Overlooking the 18th hole at Pebble Beach Golf Links, e Bench at e Lodge at Pebble Beach delivers an eclectic menu inspired by international styles and methods, which uses the innovative technique of wood roasting and open-flame cooking. You can also enjoy one-of-a-kind craft cocktails, as well as an array of draft beers and wines by the glass. Open daily 11am–10pm.

Gallery Cafe

e Lodge at Pebble Beach, 1700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining Overlooking the first tee of Pebble Beach Golf Links, Gallery Cafe offers a wide selection of breakfast choices, from light smoothies to omelets and pancakes. For a casual lunch, try the excellent burgers or choose from a delicious selection of artisan sandwiches, plus the best milkshakes this side of the 1950s. Open daily 6am–2pm.

Pèppoli at Pebble Beach

e Inn at Spanish Bay, 2700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining At Pèppoli, the scents of Italian herbs and spices fill the air, and the décor transports you to a cozy Tuscan villa. e menu is big and bold, ripe with traditional pastas, seafood and meats. e extraordinary wine list is matched by equally impressive dishes, including delicious desserts, all with stunning views of Spanish Bay. Open daily 5:30–10pm.

Porter’s in the Forest

3200 Lopez Road • 831.622.8237 www.portersintheforest.com A restaurant on a golf course, not a golf course restaurant. Chef Johnny De Vivo and his team have created a destination dining experience that has quickly become one of Pebble Beach’s top-rated restaurants on Yelp. Worried about driving on 17-Mile Drive? ey will reimburse you up to $20 if you take UBER transportation, which should cover round trip from almost anywhere on the peninsula. Open daily for breakfast and lunch and W–Su for dinner.

Roy’s at Pebble Beach

e Inn at Spanish Bay, 2700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining It’s all about big flavors and the gorgeous ocean view at Roy’s at Pebble Beach. Fresh seafood is front and center, where sushi, sashimi and blackened rare Ahi tuna are prepared to perfection, but many exciting meat dishes and island salads are also featured on the extensive Hawaiian-fusion menu. Add a dynamic wine list, exceptional desserts and an energetic environment, and you have one impressive dining experience, all overlooking Spanish Bay. Open daily for breakfast 6:30–11am, lunch 11:30am–5pm, dinner 5:30–10pm.

e Inn at Spanish Bay, 2700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining A combined wine lounge and retail shop, Stave Wine Cellar is a luxurious yet casual space that is ideal for special wine dinners or gathering with friends and colleagues. You can pair varietals by the glass with a menu of cheese and charcuterie plates. In addition to nearly 30 wines and eight craft beers by the glass, Stave has more than 200 wines for purchase by the bottle, including a wide selection of coveted bottles. A knowledgeable staff, including certified sommeliers are on-hand. Open Tu–Sa 2–10pm, Su–M 2–7pm.

STICKS

e Inn at Spanish Bay, 2700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Sticks is the perfect place for seasonally diverse California cuisine in a lively sports bar atmosphere. Savor a tasty meal, a cold draft beer, specialty cocktail or one of the many appetizers, while enjoying sports on flat-screen TVs. Outside on the patio, enjoy seating next to a fire pit while soaking up gorgeous views of e Links at Spanish Bay and the Pacific Ocean along with nightly bagpiper music. Ask about specials and new menu additions. Open daily 6am¬–9pm.

Stillwater Bar & Grill

e Lodge at Pebble Beach, 1700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining Stillwater Bar & Grill prides itself in offering the freshest and most flavorful in sustainable seafood and organic produce. Whether it’s breakfast, lunch or dinner—or Stillwater’s famous Sunday Brunch—the menus are sure to delight. Shellfish lovers will marvel at the bountiful seafood tank, while those who prefer turf to surf can choose from a variety of meaty options. Each of these delectable feasts is enhanced by fantastic views of Carmel Bay and the 18th hole of Pebble Beach Golf Links. Open daily 7am–10pm.

e Tap Room

e Lodge at Pebble Beach, 1700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining e Tap Room is more than a legendary 19th hole with an outstanding selection of draft and bottled beers, vintage wines and top quality spirits. It’s also a world-class steakhouse serving up hearty all-American fare, from burgers to prime rib to filet mignon. Renowned for its extensive collection of prized golf memorabilia, e Tap Room is a comfortable and inviting place for watching televised sporting events or recounting your successes on the courses of Pebble Beach. Open daily 11–12am.

SAN JUAN BAUTISTA Vertigo Coffee Roasters

81 Fourth Street • 831.623.9533 www.vertigocoffee.com Artisanal coffee roasted on site as well as local craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, salads, sandwiches, breakfast items plus pan dulce from El Nopal bakery in Hollister have made Vertigo a locals’ favorite as well as a great find for visitors en route to the San Juan Mission, Pinnacles or other area attractions. Open M– 7am–6pm, Fri–Sat 7am–9pm, and Sun 8am-6pm.

an epicurious lifestyle

104 Bronson Street, Suite 13 831.588.7772 • www.anepicuriouslifestyle.com An event-based commercial kitchen and dining space in a carefully curated warehouse in the historic Seabright Cannery building, an epicurious lifestyle is now open to the public for two new monthly meals: a meet-the-farmer supper club series and a family-style brunch. Each event has a limited number of tickets, giving the guests the intimate experience of a dinner or brunch party and allowing them to get to know each other as well as owner/chef Adrienne Megoran and the guest farmers. Dinners use fresh, seasonal produce featured from the farm. Brunches are a feast of sweet and savory dishes, including warm cinnamon rolls and pancetta and gorgonzola strata. Check website for future dates.

Assembly

1108 Pacific Avenue • 831.824.6100 www.assembly.restaurant is full-service restaurant from Penny Ice Creamery founders Kendra Baker and Zach Davis offers rustic California cuisine based on local, seasonal and sustainably sourced ingredients. Watch for new chef Jessica Yarr to make her own mark. e restaurant’s woodmetal-stone décor radiates from a long community table that anchors the center of the dining room, which is filled with natural light in daytime and bathed in the soft glow of copper accents at night. Open for lunch weekdays 11:30am, dinner W–M until late, brunch 10am Sa–Su, closed Tu.

Charlie Hong Kong

1141 Soquel Avenue • 831.426.5664 www.charliehongkong.com Charlie Hong Kong has been providing the Santa Cruz community with healthy, sustainable, affordable and high-quality food since 1998. e colorful, casual eatery’s delicious fusion of Southeast Asian influences and the Central Coast’s local organic produce has made it an inclusive, family-friendly, neighborhood favorite. Its slogan is “love your body, eat organic,” and its cuisine is proof that fast food can be good for you. All signature dishes are vegan with the option to add meat or fish. Gluten-free modifications available. Open daily 11am–11pm.

e Crow’s Nest

2218 E. Cliff Drive • 831.476.4560 www.crowsnest-santacruz.com A perfect spot to enjoy lunch or catch a sunset over the harbor, the nautical-themed Crow’s Nest is a Santa Cruz institution that never goes out of style. ere’s always something happening, from free seasonal ursday night beach parties to comedy nights and happy hours. Famous for its salad bar and house-smoked salmon, e Crow’s Nest is a member of Seafood Watch and is a certified green business. Open daily for breakfast 7:30am–11:30am; lunch M–F 11:30am–2:30pm and Sa–Su 11:30am–3pm; dinner M–F 5pm, Sa–Su 4:30pm.

101B Cooper Street • 831.423.4545 www.lailirestaurant.com Exotic flavors of the Silk Road are served in a stylish dining room decorated in eggplant and pistachio colors and on a hidden candlelit patio. Locals rave about Laílí’s homemade naan served warm from the oven with a selection of Mediterranean dips. ere is a wide variety of deliciously spiced vegetable dishes, organic whenever possible, and all meats are hormone free and free range. Open daily for lunch 11:30am–2:30pm, dinner 5–9:30pm.

La Posta

538 Seabright Avenue • 831.457.2782 www.lapostarestaurant.com A cozy neighborhood bistro not far from the Santa Cruz yacht harbor, La Posta chef Katherine Stern prepares Northern Italian cuisine using local ingredients—some foraged and some grown on nearby organic farms. Charcuterie is house cured; pasta, bread, and gelati are made in-house, while the balance of the menu reflects whatever produce is freshest right now. A sister restaurant of Soif Restaurant and Wine Bar, La Posta also offers a great selection of wines. Open Tu– 5–9pm, F–Sa 5–9:30pm, Su 5–8:30pm, M closed.

Pearl of the Ocean

736 Water Street • 831.457.2350 m.mainstreethub.com/Pearloftheocean Award-winning chef/owner Ayoma Wilen goes beyond the expected traditional spice-infused dishes of Sri Lanka, creating locally inspired daily specials using fresh, organic produce from farmers’ market produce and sustainably harvested seafood. Customer favorites include butternut squash curry, crab curry and wild salmon curry. To round out the flavor experience, there is a dizzying array of sides, like coconut leek sambal and kale mallam. e warm colors, altars and blessings that decorate the space help guests get a sense of Sri Lanka’s world-class hospitality, culture and beauty. Open for lunch daily 11am–2:30pm; dinner Su– 5–9pm and F–Sa 5–9:30pm.

e Penny Ice Creamery

913 Cedar Street • 831.204.2523 www.thepennyicecreamery.com Lines out the front door of its converted Spanish bungalow are evidence of Penny’s popularity. All ice cream, including bases, is made from scratch on the premises using local organic ingredients when possible. Dozens of exotic flavors rotate seasonally, but two favorites are bourbon bacon chocolate and strawberry pink peppercorn. Open daily noon–11pm. Downtown – Kiosk 1520 Pacific Avenue, Suite K2 Open Su– noon–6pm, F–Sa noon–9pm See also e Penny under Capitola.

e Picnic Basket

125 Beach Street • 831.427.9946 www.thepicnicbasketsc.com Across the street from the main beach, owners of e Penny Ice Creamery have opened an alternative to boardwalk fast food. Sandwiches, organic salads, coffee and beer, all from local food artisans, and of course Penny’s popular ice cream, are all on offer to eat in or outside with your feet in the sand. Open daily 7am–4pm.

1220 Pacific Avenue • 831.426.9930 www.rosiemccanns.com No typical Irish pub, Rosie’s emphasizes organic, local ingredients in its traditional Irish dishes like lamb stew, shepherd’s pie, corned beef and cabbage and fish and chips, as well as its California specialties such as grassfed burgers, coriander wild salmon, salads and fish tacos. Expect dozens of beers on tap—including local selections. All desserts are made in house, so save room for the Guinness-Ghirardelli chocolate cake. Open M–F for lunch 11:30am–4pm; dinner 4–10pm. Open Sa–Su for brunch 9:30am–2pm; dinner 2–10pm.

Soif Restaurant and Wine Bar

105 Walnut Avenue 831.423.2020 • www.soifwine.com Inspired by the offerings from local farmers and provisioners, chef Mark Denham’s cuisine shows California flair, with seasonal dishes like autumn endive salad with pear, steamed clams with housemade linguica, potatoes and kale, and a great burger! A cozy, new bar now offers cocktails in addition to the best wine selection in town. e bottle shop next door provides a world-class selection of wines, and a welcoming seating area for sampling them. Raw oysters and live jazz every Monday. Open Su– 5–9pm, F–Sa 5–10pm. Wine bar opens noon Tu–Sa, 5pm Su–M.

Süda

3910 Portola Drive • 831.600.7068 • www.eatsuda.com Every element of this tasteful space offers the diner with choice and comfort, from the diverse menu with vegan, gluten-free and full-fledged carnivore options to the high caliber beverage program to a variety of intimate booths, bar stools and communal seating. ere’s even a private room in the back, perfect for making a special occasion even more so. Open Su–W 11:30am–9pm, –Sa 11:30am–10pm. Open M 5pm.

Ulterior

10 Pearl Street • 831.295.3100 • www.ulteriorsc.com e enticing, almost secret nature of an upstairs restaurant never fails. Here at Ulterior, the latest venture for the former pop-up team of chef Zachary Mazi and Tighe Melville of LionFish SupperClub, what awaits you at the top of those steep stairs from parent business Motiv down below is an alluring combination of seasonal, innovative dishes, crafty cocktails and a hip atmosphere. Open Tu–Sa 5–10pm-ish.

West End Tap & Kitchen

334D Ingalls Street • 831.471.8115 www.westendtap.com Perfect for any parent who is looking for a happy hour to satisfy the whole family, at West End adults and kids alike can’t get enough of the duck fat popcorn, fried calamari and flatbread pizzas. A diverse, season-driven menu with offerings like rainbow trout with roasted trumpet mushrooms, and an even longer list of craft beer, cider and wine options make West End a Westside staple. e outdoor patio is perfect for people watching amidst the bustling Swift Street Courtyard. Open daily 11:30am–10pm.

Gusto

1901 Fremont Boulevard 831.899.5825 • www.gustopizzeriapasta.com Gusto owner Denis Boaro, a partner in Carmel’s Basil Seasonal Dining and a native of Northern Italy, named the restaurant for the Italian word for taste and his enthusiasm for delivering delicious rustic Italian food and great service that can be seen in the happy faces of his diners. e bright red-tiled, wood-fired oven just inside the entrance both sets the restaurant’s festive tone and produces terrific pizzas. Pastas are from Sand City’s Bigoli pasta and are made from organic flours. Open daily 11:30am–2:30pm, 4:30–9pm.

SOQUEL Surf City Sandwich

4101 Soquel Drive • 831.346.6952 www.surfcitysandwich.com It makes perfect sense in a town so rich in surf lore that a surfer would be the driving force behind a popular local haunt and similarly storied classic: the sandwich. Owner and chef Paul Figliomeni’s motto, “Go Fresh or Go Home,” is an indicator that anything you order here will be made with good ingredients and by hand. Throw in some vintage surf goods, homemade potato chips and local beer on tap, and you’ll never actually make it down to the beach. Open M–Sa 10:30am–7pm, Su 10:30am–5pm.

WATSONVILLE

Gizdich Ranch

55 Peckham Road 831.722.1056 • www.gizdich-ranch.com Visitors from great distances love this third-generation, family-run farm business that popularized the “pik-yorself” experience just east of Watsonville’s Interlaken neighborhood. Tour the farm, pick fresh apples or berries or watch the action inside the juice-pressing barn. No one leaves hungry if they spend time at the bakery-deli that pleases with its fresh pies, shortcakes and pastries, along with hearty sandwiches and box lunches. is family friendly experience is also a treat for kids, who will enjoy the wide-open spaces and the homemade popsicles. Open daily 9am–5pm.

Hidden Fortress Coffee

125 Hangar Way, Suite 270 831.228.1400 • www.hiddenfortressfarm.com A local’s market favorite puts down some roots just two minutes off of Highway 1 in Watsonville. Owner Amelia Loftus serves up house-roasted, organic coffee and bagged beans to go, sourced from small-scale family farms in the best coffee growing regions around the world. is low-key, charming café also sells local and organic baked goods, housemade seasonal smoothies, yogurt parfaits, salads, sandwiches and local chef-prepared soups. Open M–F 6:30am–3:30pm, Sa 8:30am–5:30pm. Closed Su.

Edible Monterey Bay Summer 2017 LOCAL SOURCE GUIDE

Find the Monterey Bay’s best local, seasonal and sustainable products and services here. ese business advertise in Edible Monterey Bay, supporting our mission and enabling us to provide this magazine to you for free. Please thank them with your business and tell them we sent you!

APPAREL

Madrigal

Carmel Plaza, Mission between Ocean and 7th, Carmel-by- the-Sea | 831.624.3477 Offering attire for men and women who prefer a classic look.

Pacific Trading Co.

1224 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz | 831.423.3349 504C Bay Ave., Capitola | 831.476.6109 facebook.com/pages/pacific-trading-co/65027935549 Independent, local, family-owned women’s apparel boutique.

ART GALLERIES & HOUSEWARES

Annieglass

310 Harvest Drive, Watsonville 831.761.2041 x21 | annieglassstore.com Locally designed and handmade slumped-glass plates, bowls and serving dishes that add famed art and style to the dining room.

R. Blitzer Gallery

2801 Mission St., Santa Cruz 831.458.1217 | rblitzergallery.com Located on the West Side of Santa Cruz featuring monthly shows of regional, national and international fine art.

BANKS AND CREDIT UNIONS

Santa Cruz County Bank

7775 Soquel Drive, Aptos 831.662.6000 | sccountybank.com 819 Bay Ave., Capitola | 831.464.5300 720 Front St., Santa Cruz | 831.457.5000 4604 Scotts Valley Drive, Scotts Valley 831.461.5000 595 Auto Center Drive, Watsonville | 831.761.7600 A leading community business lender and full-service bank of choice for locals.

BREWERIES AND TAPROOMS

East End Gastropub

1501 41st Ave., Santa Cruz 831.475.8010 | eastendgastropub.com Local gastropub serving handcrafted food, beer and wine.

Elkhorn Slough Brewing Co.

65 Hangar Way, Ste. D, Watsonville 831.288.3152 | elkhornsloughbrew.com Artisan wild and fresh ales, locally crafted in beautiful Watsonville.

Grillin & Chillin Alehouse and Brewery

401 McCray St., Ste. B24, Hollister 831.637.2337 | facebook.com/grillinchillinalehouse “Drink Well and Eat Well” is the motto of this alehouse where the proprietors brew handcrafted beer and offer more than 40 beers on tap and gourmet pub food as well.

Peter B’s Brewpub

2 Portola Plaza, Monterey 831.649.4511 | portolahotel.com Monterey’s first craft brewery features delicious, locally brewed beer and an innovative menu including vegetarian and gluten-free options.

Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing

402 Ingalls St., Ste. 27, Santa Cruz 831.425.4900 | santacruzmountainbrewing.com An award-winning, certified-organic craft brewery featuring wildly imaginative seasonal beers, hard ciders, draught root beer and kombucha.

Trailside Café and Beer Garden

3 Del Fino Place, Carmel Valley 831.298.7453 | trailsidecafecv.com Café and beer garden with handcrafted food and a rotating draft selection of 15 beers and one cider plus over 40 bottled selections including Belgian, German and ciders.

West End Tap & Kitchen

334D Ingalls St., Santa Cruz 831.471.8115 | westendtap.com Local gastropub serving handcrafted food, beer and wine.

CATERING

an epicurious lifestyle

104 Bronson St., Ste. 13, Santa Cruz 831.588.7772 | anepicuriouslifestyle.com An epicurious lifestyle is an event-based commercial kitchen and dining space in Santa Cruz.