Seawater Kimchi

Courtesy James Anderson, chef, Poke Lab in Monterey

Makes 10–15 servings

As I was working on this recipe, an old saying from the people in Provence and Northern Italy kept coming to mind, something like: ‘Nous avons la même mère,’ (we have the same mother, mère, and mer being the sea). It’s no secret that the ocean has provided life for the span of civilization, and yet we shy away from what those provisions actually are.

I adapted this recipe from a bit of trial and error, some input from Korean mothers and what was available at the farmers’ market immediately outside the restaurant. Apples from local trees, Purple Haze garlic, giant heads of Napa cabbage and the blistering hot Black Dragon chili sauce all lend unique flavor profiles. Using ocean water is such a natural fit. Using sea salt to brine the cabbage is common practice, so why not sterile ocean water with its salinity already available?

1 large or 2 medium (10 pounds’ worth) Napa cabbages, washed 1 gallon sterile, strained ocean water 2 bunches green onions, ends removed and sliced in 1-inch pieces 5 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped 1 pound sweet apples (Pink Lady or Fuji work well), quartered and seeds removed 1 yellow onion, peeled, halved and chopped finely 2-inch piece of firm ginger, peeled, cut in small rounds and crushed ¾ cup favorite type of fish sauce or anchovy patis ¼ cup Red Bird chile, finely chopped, or Korean chili powder (to taste)

Note: I don’t use sugar in this recipe, allowing the apples to act as sweetness to ferment later.

Remove the outermost leaves of the cabbages until only firm leaves remain. Quarter smaller heads or cut into 2-inch chunks. Place in a clean large bowl with high sides or a clean food-grade bucket. Add half of the water over top, and then press into the cabbage, massaging the seawater into the leaves as they tenderize, about 3–5 minutes. Place a heavy plate, which fits inside, to weigh down the cabbage (two or three may be necessary). Add remaining water to cover. Allow to sit for 1 hour in a cool spot while preparing the final ingredients.

Combine the garlic, apples, onion, ginger and fish sauce in a food processor, pulsing until a purée forms. Set aside.

Drain water from cabbage and squeeze any excess water out. Dry the bucket and fill with cabbage and apple mixture. Add scallions and chile then carefully mix together, making sure all sides and inner leaves are coated with the mixture. Place into an opaque container and weigh down using plates again. e idea is to allow the natural liquids to cover the mix as it ferments.

Leave in a cool spot, away from light, lightly covered for 3–4 days. Check it daily to make sure it is submerged. After 3 days, place in a refrigerator. After 2–3 more days, it should start to sour. Personal preference determines how long you’ll want to use it, but at least for a few weeks it will be delicious.