Edible Monterey Bay: Fall 2021 | No. 41

Celebrating the Local Food and Drink of Santa Cruz, Monterey and San Benito Counties

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Eat Well, Live Well & Sharpen Your Culinary Skills

Welcome to our 1440 kitchen! During all-inclusive Teaching Kitchen Weekend package stays you will become the home cook you’ve always wanted to be, learn about the practical applications of “food as medicine,” and enjoy a weekend filled with fun hands-on cooking demonstrations, culinary classes, educational wine tasting experiences, and more. In community with other foodies in the 1440 Teaching Kitchen, these epicurean weekends are led by the 1440 Culinary Team and feature local artisans, growers, farmers, and vintners. Upcoming events include:

October 15-17, 2021

Fall Harvest

The nostalgic warming flavors of autumn come to life as you sauté apples, roll sweet potato gnocchi, and taste the flavors that flourish in the fall — complemented by mulled wine and vintner tastings.

November 12-14, 2021

The Flavors of Japan

Japanese cuisine is known for its healthy seasonal ingredients and wonderful umami flavor profile. Sip on Japanese beers and sakes as you learn to prepare sushi rice, oshizushi, inari, miso, and other favorites.

December 10-12, 2021

Plant-Based Holiday Cooking

Enjoy the characteristics of holiday favorites while learning about the ease and benefits of plant-based cooking. Indulge in a Redwood Hot Toddy as you create delicious and nourishing seasonal treats.

Back by popular demand, these immersive learning experiences are open to all skill levels and capacity is limited to allow for safe social distancing. If you feel inspired to hone your cooking abilities, or just love everything about food, the Teaching Kitchen Weekend package is the perfect 1440 experience for you.

Book your 1440 Teaching Kitchen Weekend now at 1440.org/EMB

Every booking supports our community building initiatives, feeds local families, and contributes to our scholarship and grant p rogram

CREATING HOPE FOR LIVING WELL | SANTA CRUZ COUNTY, CA

CREATING HOPE FOR LIVING WELL | SANTA CRUZ COUNTY, CA

foods and everything else where you’d least expect it; Vintner Robin McBride shares childhood memories of Monterey, Black Girl Magic and the national wine company she built with her sister; Discover the roots of this year’s trendiest flavor— matcha; The incredible bounty of fruits and vegetables at Sea to Sky Farm

COVER PHOTOGRAPH

anniversary carrot cake with white chocolate cream cheese frosting prepared by Ben Spungin, culinary director Alta Bakery & Café, Monterey, and photographed by Patrick Tregenza

event is unique and deserving of special care and attention. Whether in one of our unique event spaces, with our partners, or at a venue of your choice, with the custom-tailored collaboration of our three iconic

on the Monterey Peninsula; Montrio, Tarpy’s, and Rio Grill, we ensure that every event is an unforgettable one.

GRIST FOR THE MILL edible

Welcome to the second decade of Edible Monterey Bay! We started this magazine adventure in September 2011 and most of the time it feels like 10 years have passed in the blink of an eye.

It was the same year that the growing community of edible magazines won the prestigious James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year award and we were here on the Central Coast wondering why there wasn’t an edible for our area. After all, Santa Cruz is known as one of the cradles of the organic movement, we have the Salad Bowl of the World in the Salinas Valley and there was a sophisticated food and wine scene developing on the Monterey Peninsula.

Founders Sarah Wood and Rob Fisher had the courage and determination to get EMB off the ground, along with Shelby Lambert and Kate Robbins on sales and me on the editorial side.

“Edible Monterey Bay is a magazine with a mission,” Wood wrote in our inaugural issue. “That mission is to help connect the people of Santa Cruz, Monterey and San Benito counties who grow, harvest and prepare our food with the people who eat it and to celebrate the amazing bounty of food and wine being produced here.”

Thousands of words, photographs and interviews later (2,208 stories can be found on our website) we are still at it, although our founders moved to the East Coast a few years back.

We love telling the stories of the local sustainable food community, and our readers eat it up. But one of the most rewarding parts of this work has been helping facilitate those connections within the foodshed, not between just farmers and eaters, but also among chefs, fishermen, foragers, food artisans and markets.

And we love brightening your day with compelling content. One of the most frequent comments we hear from readers is how uplifting, heartfelt and beautiful Edible Monterey Bay is—truly a respite from other types of media.

Many thanks go to our talented team of contributors who put together a fresh edition every quarter. With each season it seems our list of story ideas for the future grows longer.

In this 41st issue: Raúl Nava digs into the Japanese roots of this year’s trendiest flavor; Kathryn McKenzie gets ready for Thanksgiving with a visit to a regenerative turkey ranch; and Maria Gaura introduces us to a reclusive couple bringing rare ingredients to the tables of the finest local restaurants.

We are so grateful to all the businesses whose advertisements pay for our work. Remarkably, 17 of them have supported us since the very first year. On the occasion of our 10th anniversary, please stop in and thank them:

• Charlie Hong Kong

• Dig Gardens

• Earthbound Farm Stand

• The Fish Lady

• Gizdich Ranch

• G&B Organics

• Live Earth Farm

• McIntyre Vineyards

• New Leaf Community Markets

• Penny Ice Creamery

• La Posta

• Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing

• Scheid Vineyards

• Soif

• Star Market

• Storrs Winery & Vineyards

• The Wild Plum Café & Bakery

With the support of our advertising partners and the enthusiasm of our readers, we plan to keep Edible Monterey Bay going another 10 years…maybe longer!

MONTEREY BAY

EDITOR AND PUBLISHER Deborah Luhrman deborah@ediblemontereybay.com 831.600.8281

FOUNDERS Sarah Wood and Rob Fisher CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Mark C. Anderson

COPY EDITOR Doresa Banning

LAYOUT & DESIGN Matthew Freeman and Tina Bossy-Freeman

AD DESIGNERS Bigfish Smallpond Design Savanna Leigh • tracysmithstudio • Zephyr Pfotenhauer

CONTRIBUTORS

Alicia Arcidiacono • Nick Balla • Crystal Birns • Jordan Champagne • Jamie Collins •

The Curated Feast • Maria Gaura • Margaux Gibbons • Jules Holdsworth • Alexandra Hudson • Coline LeConte • Kathryn McKenzie • Raúl Nava • Laura Ness • Zephyr Pfotenhauer • Geneva Rico • Jasmine Senaveratna • Ben Spungin • Laura Sutherland • Patrick Tregenza • Lisa Troutner • Jessica Tunis • Amber Turpin

ADVERTISING SALES

ads@ediblemontereybay.com • 831.600.8281 Shelby Lambert shelby@ediblemontereybay.com Kate Robbins kate@ediblemontereybay.com Aga Simpson aga@ediblemontereybay.com

DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

Mick Freeman • 831.419.2975

CONTACT US: Edible Monterey Bay P.O. Box 487 Santa Cruz, CA 95061 ediblemontereybay.com 831.600.8281 info@ediblemontereybay.com

Edible Monterey Bay is published quarterly. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. Subscriptions are $28 per year at ediblemontereybay.com. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and notify us. We also welcome letters to the above address. Thank you.

Deborah Luhrman

Publisher

EDIBLE NOTABLES

AJ’S MARKET

Natural foods and everything else where you’d least expect it

BY LAURA SUTHERLAND PHOTOGRAPHY BY GENEVA RICO

Every time I go into AJ’s, I feel like I’m in one of those gags where a VW bug pulls up and 24 clowns get out. They just keep coming and coming and you can’t figure out how they all fit in one tiny car. At AJ’s in Soquel, it’s impossible to figure out how they pack so many gourmet goodies and carefully selected basics into such a small market. There’s also a butcher counter where you can order halal meat and Stagnaro’s fresh fish, or buy shawarmas, gyros and other fare to take away or consume in AJ’s glassed-in patio. Out front is a gas station and a drive-through car wash that wraps around the market and finishes next to the outside organic produce cooler. It adds up to the most unusual one-stop shop ever.

Need a last-minute birthday gift? Load up on items that people will think you nabbed from the hippest online purveyors, like Burnt Sacrifice’s Northwest Salmon BBQ Rub or Tiberino’s squid-ink-dyed Black Spaghetti with Capers and Paprika.

The market’s origin story has serendipitous twists and turns, all fueled by hard work, human kindness and originality. When Akhtar Javed was a young man in Pakistan, he considered going to Dubai as a welder, but discovered he hated welding. Family connections in Denmark and the U.S. created possibilities in both places, but when he happened upon a child’s Viewfinder toy and saw a 3-D picture of the Golden Gate Bridge, he honed in on the U.S., landing in Sedona, Ariz., where he worked as a helper in a mechanics shop.

AJ and his wife Ellianna converted a rundown gas station into a singular local treasure.

It’s not like it feels crowded, either. Order your fish sandwich or hand-patted burger and cruise the aisles while you wait. It’s a living museum of cool food that will set you up for any occasion. Going to a BBQ? Grab a marinated halal chicken. Meeting your new boyfriend’s family? Snag a trendy Italian pét nat wine to impress them.

One day his boss asked him to drive two women whose RV had broken down to their KOA campground and as they chatted in the car, they encouraged him to visit them in Santa Cruz. Fast forward a couple of years—AJ leaves his job, drives through the night and stays on their couch for a few days.

The market’s origin story has serendipitous twists and turns, all fueled by hard work, human kindness and originality.

After several years of working at Seagate and Harmony Foods, he realized he wanted to own his own business, and in 1987 purchased a rundown gas station with a U-Haul rental and a mechanic shop at the corner of Park Avenue and Soquel Drive in Soquel.

“AJ has always been a visionary,” notes his wife Ellianna. “He immediately eliminated the U-Haul rental and replaced the mechanics shop with a convenience store. At the time, gas stations had a few shelves with chips, candy and gum, and his was the first that was bigger. He also did thoughtful things, like adding a taller fence so the gas station lights would not bother the neighbors.”

In 2009, AJ and Ellianna replaced the old building and added the water-recycling car wash. “When we reopened, we still had convenience store food—milk, sodas, canned foods and a banana or two. But I wanted to feed my young family healthy food, so I convinced AJ that we needed more natural foods, and we started adding them step by step, eventually putting fresh produce displays out front.

“People who want to copy what we’ve done ask, ‘What is your template’ and we tell them, ‘There is no template, it’s just us.’ Because we had no experience, we made things up as we went along. Other people helped, like restaurant manager Thayr Loufti, who was known regionally for his Middle Eastern restaurants, but having no preconceived ideas of how to run a grocery store allowed us to think creatively.

“Early on I told AJ, ‘Let’s bring in a few things from your part of the world. There are no spice markets in Santa Cruz,’” says Ellianna.

Today there’s a tall South Asian spice shelf with everything you’d need for the most authentic curry, including mysterious chutneys and pickles. In another aisle are bindis, henna and incense. Like I said, it’s one-stop shopping—even for an exotic wedding where the bride needs henna designs drawn on her hands.

A quick word to the wise—before you explore AJ’s, don’t get into a food coma from first eating, say, a breakfast burrito with housemade chicken mango sausage or a Philly

From deli sandwiches to exotic spices and everything in between, AJ’s Market breaks the mold.

cheesesteak. You want to be sharp so you don’t miss the artichoke bread from Pescadero’s Arcangeli Grocery, the German grass-fed butter or the Canadian maple syrup that Ellianna loved on a trip to Quebec and imported to the store. The Marianne’s Ice Cream racks have more flavors (40+) than any place other than Marianne’s own ice cream shops.

That’s another strength. “We love local products,” says Ellianna, “like strawberries from Corralitos’ Sea Level Farm. They’re not large enough to supply the chain stores but are perfect for us, and I think they’re the best strawberries anywhere. We have unique buying options because we’re small. That, and another key to our success is our staff—we give them free reign.”

Take Leif Johnson, responsible for AJ’s mind-blowing selection of beer and wine. I counted 150 different beers on the shelf, most of them from small breweries with big reputations throughout the U.S. and Europe. And that’s not even counting the cooler, where you’ll find all kinds of fresh local award winners, like Sante Adairius and Alvarado Street.

Wines from Santa Cruz and Monterey counties have a three-sided, floor-to-ceiling display…and that’s just scratching the surface. “We focus on California wines but have plenty of smaller producers from Europe and around the world,” Johnson points out.

When I asked for a lesser-known local gem, he recommended the chardonnay from Soquel’s Assiduous Wines, so I added it to my cart along with some fresh baklava. Heading into the car wash, I sat back and sampled the buttery, nutty treats while the water jets massaged my car. Thanks to AJ’s, everything I needed for a planet-spanning dinner was in the backseat…except for the dessert, which was now just crumbs in my lap.

AJ’s Market ajsmarket.com

5955 Soquel Drive, Soquel

Santa Cruz-based writer Laura Sutherland covers culinary, craft beer, wine and family travel for numerous publications and websites. A packing light fanatic, she always keeps a pen and a fork (and a mini roll of duct tape) handy wherever she wanders. LauraSutherland.net, @WanderandTaste, @TalkBubblytoMe

Designed and illustrated by Jasmine Senaveratna

EDIBLE NOTABLES

THE GREAT ESCAPE

Vintner Robin McBride shares childhood memories of Monterey, Black Girl Magic and other pivotal moments behind McBride Sisters—the wine company she and sister Andréa built from their bond and determination.

STORY AND ILLUSTRATIONS

Long before she and her sister launched a national wine company, Robin McBride’s interest in wine was sparked at a young age—in Monterey.

“As a little kid, I tried to make wine under my bed,” she says with a laugh. “I learned wine was made from grapes, and grapes were made into grape juice and fermented. And I felt I could do that for sure. I had baby bottles from my dolls and would take Welch’s grape juice and put it in these bottles. And I’d put them in a cool dark place, under my bed and wait for them to turn into wine…until my mom discovered it, and asked, ‘What is this stuff cooking under your bed?’ I said, ‘Hey! Leave my wine cellar alone, I’m making wine over here.’ And she said, ‘Okay, girl, do you, I guess. Just don’t make a mess on the floor.’”

Now grown up with kids of her own and living in Oakland, Robin is planning a nostalgic birthday trip around Monterey this fall for her 17-year-old twins. Stops include the Monterey Bay Aquarium and Red’s Donuts, a childhood favorite.

Robin talked with us about growing up in Monterey, her more serious beginnings in wine and the business she and her sister Andréa launched 16 years ago.

Walk us through your early memories of Monterey.

My mom moved from Los Angeles with me before I was two years old. Way back in the ’70s, she was in a Volkswagen Bug, driving up Highway 1, and we stayed overnight in Pacific Grove, in a little bungalow on Lighthouse.

Contemplating what was ahead for her, she decided to stay an extra day, took a look around…and ultimately decided Old Monterey was it. This was our spot. We lived in one house until I was 13, and then moved across the street. She’s been in that place for 30 years.

BY JASMINE SENAVERATNA

What was childhood like in 1970s monterey?

It was just me and her. It was kind of unique, because in the ‘70s, when I was a little girl, there was a lot of freedom. I spent a lot of my childhood out in that neighborhood, in little forests and streams, being in my head, so I was kind of a weird kid.

I went to all the schools in Monterey; I was a smart kid, I skipped grades…everything was just awkward. I tested out [of high school] when I was 15, and I loved science, so I went to MPC. I ended up working [one summer] when I was 16 at a company still there called Sierra Instruments. I would spend all day talking with the engineers, just learning about anything that piqued my interest.

My first career goal when I was five was to be a flower farmer—Monterey being very heavily rooted in agriculture, fishing,

Robin McBride (left) and her sister Andréa were raised on different continents but bonded over wine.

hospitality, restaurants, tourism and wine. I’ve always had this fascination with the process of growing things, making things, feeding people and the experience.

While I was geeking out being this manufacturing nerd, I started my own journey as a wine drinker, learning more about wine.

It wasn’t until early adulthood that you learned you had a younger half-sister who had been raised in New Zealand. What was that like?

Andréa and I met, and then I understood where she comes from is very similar [to Monterey]. She had a similar experience being in New Zealand’s agriculture and wine country. And we were like, “That’s crazy!”

You unite, you have this wine connection. Is there an aha moment? Andréa was going to USC. Monterey to L.A. is a bit of a haul, so we met in the middle. We ended up picking places in wine country. We were getting to know each other and learning about our pasts with this whole backdrop of wine. It became important to us and an important part of our relationship.

Unfortunately, our experiences weren’t always the best—going to places and not getting served, taking forever to get someone’s attention or to get seated. We just wanted to talk about sister stuff and drink some wine. And we thought, what if a Black woman had a winery or if we had a winery?

Then there’s a defining moment. She’s an athlete and a junior in

college, gets an injury and she’s out. At the time I just had the twins and there was no way to go back to corporate America. It’s not a natural place for me; I like to be creative.

Grapes for the McBride Sisters’ new chardonnay and pinot noir come from the Santa Lucia Highlands.

We’re looking at each other, [thinking] what are we going to do here?

However, when we started looking into winemaking, wine is a very expensive business. It takes a lot of capital and a lot of time and a lot of land and facilities—none of which we had, including the money.

So what are we gonna do about that? Andréa’s uncle is a grape grower in New Zealand and we thought maybe we could start bringing over some of these wines from the small family-owned wineries where she grew up. So we start introducing folks to these amazing wines at a time when New Zealand wines were becoming popular [circa 2005].

There’s a lot of trial and error, and we had those experiences and learned from them.

I am process driven; I love the growing side of things; the winemaking side; the processes down to our packaging, finished goods, inventories, moving it around the country—that’s where I naturally sit. My sister is obsessed with marketing and sales.

We are the siblings that each of us always wished we had. When we found each other, we were so honored to have each other. This respect for our relationship as sisters, above everything else, is such a big part of why our business works.

How did Black Girl Magic wines evolve?

In 2018, New Orleans had selected the first Black woman mayor and we were invited to participate in the Essence Festival at the mayor’s opening party. We had never been to Essence Festival before. We love New Orleans, [and thought], this is amazing! We’re going to bottle some special stuff and call it Black Girl Magic as a celebration.

The Black Girl Magic brand was created to be celebratory for a specific event.

In early 2020, we made the decision to distribute Black Girl Magic wines across the country—[an off-dry riesling, a rosé and a red blend from California]. But distributors were not seeing the opportunity, understanding the community, the brand, who would buy it.

Then we have a social justice movement and a lot of national accounts met with demands for the product. We saw consumers having a voice and demanding access to Black-owned brands, [saying to retailers], “These are the products we want to see on shelves.”

We were already ready. This wine wasn’t made in response to what was going on; we already had it in creation. It’s one of a hundred times where we bet on ourselves.

What wines are you excited about right now?

We just launched our first two reserve wines, which are Santa Lucia Highlands wines, a chardonnay and a pinot noir.

Our chardonnay label depicts the story about my mom in her VW Bug, going from L.A. to Monterey. It’s called The Great Escape. It’s Big Sur, Bixby Bridge, California poppies, her Bug. It has her initials on the license plate, and the sign shows L.A. behind her and Monterey ahead.

The Great Escape is also our version of escaping traditional California chardonnay. Showcasing the place where the grapes are grown [Escolle Vineyard] and the environment, with beautiful acidity, bright citrus notes and cooler climate fruit, pear, apple and beautiful minerality. It tastes like to Monterey to me.

Jasmine Senaveratna is a food and wine enthusiast, restaurant service director, and freelance writer and illustrator. She is inspired by food as culture, experience and personal story. Find more of her work at jasminesenaveratna.com.

EDIBLE NOTABLES

Going Green

Discover the roots of this year’s trendiest flavor

BY RAÚL NAVA PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK TREGENZA

A green wave has splashed down on Monterey Bay. All around town, restaurants, coffee shops and bakeries are turning green with Japanese matcha.

Chefs, bakers and baristas are finding inventive ways to feature the bright green powder of pulverized tea leaves. Matcha lattes are now ubiquitous at hipster coffee shops. The health conscious incorporate antioxidantrich matcha into smoothies and tonics. Pastry chefs add matcha to their desserts to blend sweet and savory. Even bartenders are mixing matcha into their cocktails.

The booming popularity of matcha represents a dramatic change from 46 years ago when Mitsuko Gammon first moved to the U.S. from Japan.

“At that time, your only option for tea was Lipton,” she recalls, laughing. “It was very difficult to find very good tea, much less matcha. Every time I wanted to drink good tea, I had to ask my mom, ‘Would you send me some?’”

Gammon owns Cha-ya in Monterey and serves as a de facto ambassador for Japanese tea, its rich heritage and its expansive variety. She has seen firsthand the growing demand for matcha and other Japanese teas. “I sell so much matcha now,” she observes. “It’s changed so much in 16 years.”

Born and raised in Tokyo, Gammon opened Cha-ya in 2005 when she saw an opportunity to share her passion for Japanese culture with the community. “I couldn’t find good tea, and I thought people should know more about Japanese green tea,” she recalls. Specializing in Japanese gifts, antiques and teas, Cha-ya made its debut in Pacific Grove. In 2008, Gammon relocated the shop to its current address in downtown Monterey.

STEEPED IN TRADITION

Cultivation of green tea (Camellia sinensis) originated in China, but the lightly bittersweet brew has large cultural significance in Japan. After Buddhist monks brought tea seeds to the country in the ninth century, Japan’s tea culture blossomed. Gammon sources Cha-ya’s teas from two regions with deep ties to Japanese tea traditions—Shizuoka and Kyoto.

Shizuoka Prefecture is located on the Pacific coast of Honshu, about halfway between Osaka and Tokyo, in the shadow of Mount Fuji. Tea cultivation there dates back to 1241, and this region now produces about 40% of Japan’s green tea, thanks largely to nutrient-rich volcanic soils, exceptional water quality and favorable climate.

Kyoto—and its southern suburb, Uji—have a storied history in tea

cultivation and ceremony too. While tea drinking dates back more than 1,000 years in Japan, it wasn’t until the 16th century that the concept of tea as ritual took root. Kyoto is widely viewed as the origin of Japanese tea ceremony, and the country’s oldest operating tea house is in Uji.

You won’t find Japan’s tea titans on the shelves at Cha-ya. Instead of big brands like Yamamotoyama, Ippodo and ITO EN, Gammon sources teas from small producers. She is a longtime client of Den’s Tea— based in Southern California, but grown in Shizuoka—and a friend connected her to Azuma Tea Farm, in Wazuka, about an hour’s drive from downtown Kyoto.

Mitsuko Gammon was born in Tokyo and shares her Japanese heritage at Cha-ya in Monterey.

Brewing Basics

Mitsuko Gammon—owner of Cha-ya in downtown Monterey—shares some tips for making matcha at home

Tools Matcha is best enjoyed in a chawan (茶碗) or tea bowl. Look for a bowl that’s deep and wide for whisking the matcha, but will fit nicely in your hands.

A bamboo tea scoop called a chashaku (茶杓) is recommended for measuring your matcha, but isn’t essential. You’ll need a bamboo whisk, or chasen (茶筅), to blend the powder and water.

Matcha Premium- or ceremonial-grade matcha is recommended for sipping. Store your matcha in a sealed bag in the cupboard. (Refrigerating or freezing isn’t recommended, since the delicate powder can easily absorb other odors.) Most matcha will keep for about a year.

Brewing First, pour some hot water into your chawan to warm the vessel. In a separate bowl to the side, discard the hot water from the chawan and soak the chasen. Using the chashaku, measure about one or two large scoops (about one teaspoon) of matcha powder, to taste, and put it in the chawan. Pour about a half cup of hot water over it for brewing. Matcha is best enjoyed at a temperature of 185 to 190° F. With one hand, hold the chawan in place on a counter. With the other hand, use the chasen to whisk the matcha back and forth in a W pattern (not in a circular motion) until frothy. Sip, savor and enjoy.

Care Clean your chasen by running it under hot water (no soap). It’s best to clean the chasen as soon as possible so the fine prongs don’t get clogged or damaged. If you make matcha frequently, you’ll need to replace the chasen every six months.

Gammon likens her rapport with these multigenerational operations to the farm-to-table movement. “I’m getting the tea from the growers sent directly to me,” she says. She has visited both farms, citing the picturesque beauty of the rolling fields of bright green shrubs and pristine air.

MATCHA MAKER

Despite its celebrity, there’s still a lot of mystery behind matcha for many.

At Cha-ya, Gammon often finds herself clarifying the difference between green tea and matcha. “They come from the same plant, but they’re not the same thing,” she emphasizes. It boils down to leaves versus liquid. “With matcha, you’re drinking whole leaves. With loose tea, you’re drinking the liquids.”

For a month before harvest, farmers put bamboo shades over the tea bushes to shield the delicate leaves from the sun. Without the light, the leaves become more tender and rich in nutrients, like vitamin C and antioxidants. Leaves are harvested by hand, steamed, dried, then stone ground to make matcha. “A big bulk of leaves yields just a little bit of matcha powder,” says Gammon. “That’s the reason matcha is expensive.”

But the higher cost for matcha—exacerbated in recent months by rising shipping costs due to the pandemic—hasn’t deterred Gammon’s regulars. “I used to order once every six months, now it’s every two months,” she says. “Matcha is selling like crazy!”

Gammon curates a selection that speaks to the variety of Japanese green teas. Some are for everyday drinking, others are a bit more luxurious.

Classics like sencha and matcha are Gammon’s bestsellers. Genmaicha—green tea mixed with roasted rice—is another popular pick. “It’s less expensive, but very comforting,” she explains. Hōjicha sees the leaves roasted instead of steamed before drying—“When you brew, it doesn’t even look like green tea”—and the caramel-colored concoction is a lowcaffeine option to enjoy in the evening.

But Gammon’s personal favorite? Gyokuro, a higher-quality green tea that’s grown in the shade for a month before harvest, much like matcha. It’s a delicate tea best enjoyed at a lower temperature, which slowly opens the tea leaves as they steep. “It’s delicious.”

Green tea isn’t one size fits all. “Some customers come in and say, ‘Hmm, I don’t like green tea.’ I ask, ‘How do you make it?’” She cautions how steeping green tea too long makes the beverage bitingly bitter and how some varieties taste better at hotter (or colder) temperatures. There’s a bit of art and a bit of science to brewing the perfect cup.

Gammon welcomes the burgeoning matcha market and expanding interest in tea, acknowledging the powder’s health benefits. “Any way you can drink matcha is a good thing,” she says.

“I don’t say ‘You have to drink it only this way’ or ‘You cannot do it that way’—you have to have flexibility.” She equally embraces matcha served whisked in a traditional chawan bowl or enjoyed as a latte for the ’gram. “Life is too short to drink something you don’t like!”

Cha-ya chaya4tea.com

118 Webster St., Monterey

Raúl Nava (he/him/él) is a freelance writer covering dining and restaurants across the Central Coast. Follow him on Instagram and Twitter @offthemenu831.

Tea Types

Ryokucha 緑茶 Literally translating to “green tea” in Japanese, this covers a suite of green tea variations

Sencha 煎茶 Japan’s most popular green tea has a refreshing bitterness and is lightly sweet

Shincha 新茶 Also known as “new tea,” this is the first harvest of sencha with young leaves bearing a fresh aroma and sweetness

Bancha 番茶 A lower-grade green tea harvested at the second flush, typically in summer or fall, with bolder flavor

Kabusecha 冠茶 Tea shielded from the sun under straw mats (typically for one week) during part of cultivation

Gyokuro 玉露 A highly prized green tea grown in shade for three to four weeks before the harvest and picked only once each year, resulting in a tea high in theanine and chlorophyll

Genmaicha 玄米茶 Bancha blended with genmai (roasted rice) and hana (popped rice), lending the tea a full, nutty flavor

Matcha 抹茶 A fine powder made from green tea plants grown in the shade for three to four weeks before the harvest, with stems and veins removed from the leaves before processing, that is sipped (not steeped) as a beverage

Ceremonial grade is ground by granite stone mills for use in traditional Japanese tea ceremonies and Buddhist temples

Premium grade is a high-grade matcha powder made from young green tea leaves

Culinary grade is a lower-grade matcha powder suitable for baking and cooking, and thus slightly more bitter than premium or ceremonial matcha

Hōjicha 焙じ茶 While most green tea leaves are processed by steam, this variation sees tea leaves roasted over charcoal before drying, giving the brewed tea a caramel color and toasty flavor

Kukicha 茎茶 Sometimes called “twig tea,” this is tea made from stems and stalks of the tea shrub (sencha and matcha are made from tea leaves exclusively)

EDIBLE NOTABLES SWEET ON SWEET POTATOES

The incredible bounty of fruits and vegetables at Sea to Sky Farm

BY LAURA NESS PHOTOGRAPHY BY COLINE LECONTE

The unmistakable green weediness of tomato plant wafted up as we waded through the yellow-flecked entanglement, plucking sweet cherry tomatoes from the vigorous vines in the early heat of the day, tucking them into buckets made from our t-shirts, just like we did as kids. We laughed as the bees buzzed around us, taking aim at the flowers, shaking like miniature yellow trumpets in the warm breeze. “We’ll have these babies for weeks!” exclaimed Chris Laughlin, owner of Sea to Sky Farm in Bonny Doon.

Adjacent to the unruly cherry tomatoes, neat rows of young cucumbers, melons (galia, Charentais, honey orange snow leopard, piel de sapo, dark belle, sweet favorite, mini loves and ambrosia), eggplant, squash and six kinds of chile pepper plants including Jimmy Nardello and lipstick, were making haste towards fruiting. In the hoop houses behind us, one variety of blueberry was wrapping up, while others were gearing up for another season, along with raspberries. Everywhere, bees buzzed, undaunted by our presence.

Laughlin is a fourth generation farmer, who grew up in the Central Valley where her family grows almonds. Choosing Humboldt State for college introduced her to coastal living and a new love—surfing. “I have lived by the ocean ever since,” she says. “My husband and both boys love to surf, too!”

After seeing firsthand the impact of ocean issues like plastic pollution, acidification, coral reef bleaching and red tide, she chose to work with Ocean Champions. “I was drawn to their mission, which was to create a political environment where protecting and restoring the oceans is a priority of federal and state governments,” says Laughlin, who worked for the Capitola-based organization for 11 years, side by side with Senator Barbara Boxer, a strong champion of ocean conservation.

While searching for the perfect coastal farming opportunity, Laughlin consulted for the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary Foun-

dation, helping launch fundraising efforts and programs. “The health of our beautiful Monterey Bay is a huge part of why farming organically, sustainably and ecologically is so important to me,” she explains.

In 2018, after seven years of searching, she was able to secure the 24-acre Bonny Doon property that used to be Shumei Farm, followed the next year by the 19-acre Rancho del Oso property at Waddell Creek, formerly farmed by Jeff Larkey of Route 1 Farms. The first parcel is the sky and the second is the sea in Sea to Sky Farm.

In the center of the Bonny Doon property, like a giant cathedral, stands a redwood grove, a solid core of coolness, where the temperature dropped 20° the moment I stepped under its welcoming arbor. Here, she plans to hold lectures and yoga classes someday. She also has plans for an event center, complete with kitchen and overnight accommodations. Her dreams are even bigger than her smile.

Beyond the grove, greenhouses were literally brimming over with starts of four different kinds of basil, squash, herbs and flowers. Outside, a couple dozen avocado trees in buckets awaited transplant to their eventual home. Everywhere, evidence of the backbreaking work

Chris Laughlin founded Sea to Sky two years ago on land that was once part of Shumei Farm and Route 1 Farms.

of farming lay strewn about. Each broken pipe, hose, tool and bucket, each discarded plastic flat that once germinated seeds, all are part of the trash heap of history. What you won’t find here are pesticides or fertilizers; this is a strictly organic farm.

On the flank of the highest hill on the property, the Blenheim apricot trees were putting down deep roots, along with pineapple guava and citrus. Below us, rhubarb, a shade loving plant, was struggling to establish itself in the crippling sun. And almost everywhere else in the deep brown soil, the tri-cornered leaves of sweet potatoes were valiantly staking out their territory. It’s these tubers that have established Laughlin as an anchor at markets like Wild Roots, Shopper’s Corner, Staff of Life and New Leaf.

Laughlin, who lives in Santa Cruz with her husband and two young sons, is clearly in her element on the farm, surrounded by promise and possibility, but also, to be completely honest, surrounded by the reminders of loss. Evidence of the 2020 August CZU fire that destroyed beehives, crop, trees, a water tank and hoop houses, is visible from almost every angle of this farm on Bonny Doon Road.

“The fire came right up to the house there,” she says. Darn close. Her mom lives there. But for the stalwart and pioneering spirit of neighbors like Ryan Beauregard, who stayed behind to fight the fire and save his vineyards and livelihood when others evacuated, Laughlin’s dream of having an organic farm in this sacred spot might have gone up in smoke. Several ceremonial sites important to the local Ohlone are off limits to commercial production, including a mini Stonehenge of rock around a small firepit where an elder had recently burned tobacco. She’s talking with tribal leaders about planting white sage, elderberry and coffeeberry plants there for them to tend and harvest.

The drought has turned the pond into a melted chocolate fudgesicle, but it doesn’t stop Laughlin from fantasizing about a big wooden deck where people can sit and admire a water-blessed future. A lone dahlia perched precariously on its 12-inch stilt, and she plucked it, handing it to me, the treasure it was. “My first dahlia! I love flowers. Everyone loves flowers. I need to grow more!”

She already grows amazing sunflowers and a huge variety of other blooms, along with a year-round rotation that includes everything from

Sea to Sky produce is available at nine farmers’ markets, local supermarkets and through its CSA.

gem lettuces, chicories, spinach, broccoli, kale and carrots to pumpkins like cinnamon girl, polar bear and racer. She is considering a u-pick for the kids.

Want potatoes? She has German Butterball, purple fiesta fingerling, Austrian crescent fingerling, French fingerling, banana fingerling and Purple Peruvian, plus winter squash. A four-acre fruit orchard puts forth five kinds of apples (rubinstar, gala, gravenstein, pippin, McIntosh), avocados, citrus, guavas, summer peaches and plums, and red bartlett, Bosc and Comice pears. No wonder Sea to Sky is a darling at farmers’ markets all over the Bay Area.

This fall don’t miss the colorful harvest of sweet potatoes—red garnet, orange Covington and purple murasaki—that has made her a staple in Santa Cruz County kitchens.

Here’s to the stuff sweet potato dreams are made of.

Laura Ness is a longtime wine journalist who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay, Spirited, Los Gatos Magazine and the Wine Industry Network, sharing stories of the intriguing characters who inhabit the world of wine and food.

Creamy, Cheesy Scalloped Sweet Potatoes

Courtesy California Sweetpotatoes

This is a sweet twist on scalloped potatoes. The combination of orange- and yellow/white-fleshed sweet potatoes makes a pretty presentation. All in all, it’s impressive enough for special occasions—it would be great alongside Thanksgiving turkey—but easy enough for weeknights, paired with a simple chicken breast or chops. Or served as a vegetarian entrée with a crisp salad.

To make the recipe your own, try using different colored sweet potatoes, your favorite type of cheese, different herbs (or none at all), or by using broth instead of some of the cream.

1½ pounds orange-fleshed sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch thick slices

1½ pounds yellow/white-fleshed sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch slices

2 cups shredded Gruyere cheese

2½ cups heavy cream

2 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped

1½ teaspoons salt

1½ teaspoons pepper

1 teaspoon dry mustard

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

¼ teaspoon garlic powder

¼ teaspoon onion powder

Heat the oven to 400° F.

Oil a 9-by-13-inch baking pan or a 2½- to 3-quart casserole dish. Layer about half of the sweet potatoes in the prepared casserole dish, overlapping them and mixing the colors. Sprinkle about half of the cheese on top. Add the remaining potatoes and set aside.

In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the cream, thyme, salt, pepper, dry mustard, nutmeg, garlic powder and onion powder and cook just until bubbles appear at the edges of the saucepan.

Pour the cream mixture over sweet potatoes. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese, cover loosely with foil and bake until the sweet potatoes are almost tender, about 45 minutes.

Uncover and continue baking until the sweet potatoes are tender and the top is browned, about 15 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Serves 8–10.

WHAT’S IN SEASON Tomato Love

Fall is peak tomato season around the Monterey Bay

BY JAMIE COLLINS PHOTOGRAPHY BY LISA TROUTNER

My love for tomatoes started when I was in elementary school. My greatgrandparents had a big garden at their desert home in Yucca Valley. I spent my summers helping them hunt and squish tomato hornworms, harvest tomatoes, eggplant and watermelon and eat fresh figs from the trees. Instead of the typical apple in my school lunch, I often got a big red and juicy beefsteak tomato. I ate it with gusto, while my classmates stared confused and poked fun at me. I remember enjoying it with little care about what they thought because it was delicious.

Twenty years ago, when I started Serendipity Farms I knew I had to find land that would be hospitable to my favorite summer crop. Once

I did, I planted all kinds of unique and delicious heirloom varieties that eventually grew 8 feet tall and produced 50 pounds of fruit per vine. It was amazing to watch the tomatoes ripen into magical shapes and colors, hiding like Easter eggs under their leaves. For several years in the early 2000s, when organically grown heirlooms were uncommon, I sold 10 acres worth of tomatoes under Trader Joe’s label, as well as my own. We rode the heirloom wave until large commercial farms started planting them, lowering the price. We couldn’t compete because our harvest season in Carmel was too short to balance the costs of production. We still grow over 30 varieties of tomatoes, but only sell direct to customers at our Carmel farm stand and local farmers’ markets.

FINE DINING OVERLOOKING

Aps Cek

FARM TO TABLE, FRESH & SEASONAL FARE

AZTEC ROOTS

Tomatoes are a nightshade, botanically considered a fruit (a berry, actually) in the Solanacea family, which also includes peppers, eggplants, potatoes and tomatillos.

The ancestor of the tomato was a wild, pea-shaped fruit native to South America and domesticated by Aztecs before 500 BC. The Aztecs called it “tomatl,” which became “tomate” once Spain conquered the Aztecs. The Spanish brought it to Europe, where at first it was feared to cause toxicity and even death like its relative, belladonna, also a nightshade.

It wasn’t until the 17th century that tomatoes were grown and eaten in North America, likely brought over from the Caribbean. Thomas Jefferson also sent seeds back from Paris, where he tried the fruit, and by the mid-18th century, tomatoes were being cultivated on farms in the southeast.

But it was Alexander Livingston, son of a farmer with no formal education but a strong interest in seed development, who is responsible for the flavor and look of tomatoes we are familiar with today. He purchased 70 acres in Reynoldsburg, Ohio and started the Buckeye Garden Seed Co. There he took hard, sour tiny fruits and crossbred them until he produced large, sweet tomatoes, through the first tomato breeding program in the U.S. Livingston introduced the paragon variety in 1870. Five years later he unveiled acme, which became the parent tomato in all tomato development for next 25 years. Livingston’s ability to produce 30 superior tomato varieties resulted in half of the genetic material in circulation today. He is also responsible for making tomatoes popular with American cooks.

What other fruit defines the harvest season more than a tomato? Living on the Central Coast we have to wait a little longer for tomatoes to ripen than warmer counties, but I’m convinced our local tomatoes are some of the tastiest. They ripen slower over a longer period of time and therefore develop higher sugar content. There is really no comparison when it comes to perfectly ripe tomatoes bought directly from a Monterey Bay area farm.

FAVORITE VARIETIES

Dry Farmed: Our cool summer weather allows farmers to dry farm thick-skinned tomato varieties such as early girl and new girl or momotaro—a Japanese variety that is both sweet and tangy. The thick skin on these tomatoes helps them handle the stress of not receiving water, which in turn makes them very sweet. Seedlings are planted and watered only enough to establish them, then the water is cut completely off for the rest of the growing season, forcing the roots to go deep. Dry-farmed tomatoes are mainly grown in cooler coastal areas and do best in soil that has some clay content, which allows it to hold water. They don’t produce as many fruits as irrigated tomatoes nor do they grow as large, but the flavor is outstanding. Because of their thick skin, they last a really long time; I’ve had them sit on my counter for two weeks and still look perfect.

My favorite way to enjoy dry-farmed tomatoes is to cut them in half, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and roast at 200° F for about an hour, until they are caramelized and the juice has run off. Increase temperature to 275° F for last 20 minutes to brown around the edges. Pop these in a jar with ol-

Photographer and tomato lover Lisa Troutner says one of her favorite ways to enjoy heirloom tomatoes is on a simple tartine. Lightly toast a slice of sourdough, spread a thin layer of creamy aioli and top with thick slices of garden ripe tomatoes. Sprinkle with sea salt, ground pepper, herbs of choice and a drizzle of EVOO.

ive oil, herbs and feta and use on everything or just eat straight out of the jar. When the tomatoes are finished, your jar of olive oil with herbs and feta will make an awesome dip for bread.

Live Earth Farm, Dirty Girl Produce and Groundswell Farm sell their dry-farmed tomatoes at Santa Cruz Community Farmers’ Markets, while Sea Level Farm and Molino Creek Farm sell to local retailers like Wild Roots and Staff of Life Market. Live Earth Farm also has a popular dry-farmed tomato u-pick every autumn.

Romas: Another tomato with a cult following is the San Marzano, an heirloom variety originally grown in the volcanic soil of San Marzano sul Sarno near Naples, Italy. Those familiar with the San Marzano know this is the variety to look for to make great sauce with strong yet sweet tomato flavor

and lower acid. They have few seeds, little juice and are very meaty. San Marzanos are the last variety to ripen, and they are determinate, which means they ripen all at once, so start looking for them at the farmers’ markets in late September. If you are lucky, you may also find yellow San Marzanos!

My favorite tomatoes for making soup are orange roma varietals, such as orange icicle or Italian gold. Simply cook down the tomatoes, add an equal amount of chicken broth and use an immersion blender to combine. Then cook for 20 minutes on medium, turn off heat and add za’atar and fresh basil. Top individual bowls with olive oil and salt. It’s simple, yet so good and great with a grilled cheese.

Cherry Tomatoes: Sungolds are still my all-time favorite cherry tomato. They are so sweet you can eat them like grapes and they make a great pizza topping. If you live in a place that does not get frost, often you can over winter this variety and keep it producing into the second year. Another favorite is the indigo kumquat, which is orange on the bottom with bluish shoulders and has the flavor profile of a plum, the texture of a tomato and a delightful tartness.

Heirlooms: Heirloom seeds are like antiques that have been passed down many generations through seed saving. Unlike hybrids, they have character in their shapely “flaws” and very distinct flavors and fascinating colors. Some of my favorites are pink berkeley tie dye, Aunt Ruby’s German Green, big rainbow, chocolate stripe, purple cherokee and prange brandywine. The purple varieties tend to be more smoky in flavor, while the green taste more cucumber-y and orange varieties are lower in acid and sweeter.

Growing heirloom tomatoes can be addictive. Just ask Gary Ibsen and Dagma Lacey of TomatoFest seeds, who have built their life around them. They produce 650 varieties of organically grown heirloom tomato seeds on a 20-acre farm in Hollister. Friends and family help them bring in the harvest. Then they squeeze each tomato variety into labeled buckets and let them ferment for a few days, which helps release the pulp from the seeds. Next, they strain, rinse and air-dry the seeds. They have a new line of dwarf varieties that can be grown in smaller containers for folks who live in apartments and want to grow a tomato in their sunny window. Ibsen’s favorite dwarf varieties are the uluru ochre, a blackish orange tomato, the purple-hued wild spud leaf and the beauty king—a striped red and yellow variety.

Please never put your tomatoes in the refrigerator! It changes their flavor and breaks down their cell walls. The best option is to keep them in a cool place or on the counter until you are ready to eat. They last the longest when kept between 55 and 60° F. I like to use a steak knife to cut my tomatoes, because it prevents them from being squished and losing all the juice, and it is easier to cut out the core with a serrated blade.

HOW TO GROW

Choose smaller tomato varieties for coastal areas, and most any type for warm areas. Start tomato seeds in trays inside a warm greenhouse in March. Choose a spot in the garden with full sun and loosened soil. Plant the seedlings 18 inches apart in a row with at least 36 inches

between rows, no earlier than May, but no later than June 15. Plant the seedling deep, as roots will develop on the stem when covered with soil, making the plant stronger instead of leggy. Top dress plants with plenty of compost or worm castings. Use tomato cages, or better yet stake your tomatoes and use twine to hold the vines up. Prune off excess lateral vegetative growth, leaving the flowers and continue to train and trellis the vine. If you live in a warmer place, you will need to prune less heavily to avoid sunburn on the fruit, but if you are on the coast you may remove more leaves to allow more sun in to ripen the fruit. Fertilize with a fish-based fertilizer and once flowers start to form, add potassium and calcium every two weeks. Water deeply and wait until you start to see leaves curl before watering again. This will encourage the tomatoes roots to grow deeper. Harvest when the tomato has turned color completely or harvest them green and make chutney or fried green tomatoes.

Cynthia Sandberg of Love Apple Farm has been growing heirloom tomatoes, selling her biodynamic plants and teaching gardening classes including “Tomato Masters” for more than 20 years. She has a plant sale in Scotts Valley every spring where one can pick from a large offering of tomatoes of all kinds, and is a great local resource for all things tomato.

Jamie Collins is the owner of Serendipity Farms and attends all of the Santa Cruz Community Farmers’ Markets, where you can find her fresh organic fruit, vegetables and nutrient-dense prepared food items.

Lisa Troutner, who took the tomato photos in this story, is a passionate farmer, with a wide range of interests. Whether it be cultivating exotic heirloom tomatoes, creating intricate harvest art, designing unique floral arrangements or distributing her treasured seeds throughout the U.S., she strives to produce quality and rare beauty in all of her work. Her love and energy for plants is affirmed by the incredible vigor, health and production found on her farms, and wherever she goes, her green thumb and a flourishing garden follow. More at carmelbellafarm.com

Dry-Farmed Tomato Jam

Courtesy Jordan Champagne, owner, Happy Girl Kitchen in Pacific Grove

Tomatoes are a fruit that is great to preserve in many different ways. One can make straight preserved tomatoes, salsa, marinara sauce, chutney and juice, to name a few. Different tomatoes are a better fit for some preserves than others. Dry-farmed tomatoes are perfect for making tomato jam. They are in peak harvest through October and their flavor is also best at this time.

This jam has a rich red tomato color with a velvety smooth finish. It can be used to adorn an abundant appetizer board. At Happy Girl, we use this jam on our sandwiches and as a topping for a grain bowl. The garam masala in this recipe plays with the balance of sweet and savory and makes this jam delightful with salty cheese, as a glaze for green vegetables and even as a secret ingredient to make baked beans really pop. This preserve is not just for toast.

4 pounds dry-farmed tomatoes, destemmed and sliced into chunks without peeling

1½ pounds organic cane sugar

¼ cup lemon juice

1 tablespoon garam masala

1 pinch sea salt

Place 5 plates in the freezer so they are ready for your gel test at the end. Prepare seven 8-ounce jars for storing the finished jam. Combine all the ingredients in a nonreactive pot over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally to avoid scorching. After 5 minutes, take a plate out of the freezer and do a gel test. Continue testing throughout the cooking process and continue to boil vigorously until you have reached the desired gel stage, about 10–15 minutes. Once the jam reaches your desired consistency, remove it from the heat and fill the jars, leaving ½ inch of headspace at the top. Wipe the rims, apply the lids and process in a hot water bath canner for 10 minutes. Jars will keep for up to 1 year. Makes seven 8-ounce jars.

Reprinted with permission from It Starts with Fruit by Jordan Champagne, Chronicle Books, 2020.

Photo and styling by Margaux Gibbons

Tomato Spoon Salad

Courtesy Nick Balla, executive chef, Coast Big Sur

We often serve versions of this salad at Coast. My father always makes versions of these and refuses to set the table with a fork when he serves them. After marinating the sweet summer tomatoes and other veggies release their juice, making this salad-soup hybrid the perfect dish for a hot day, especially with a chunk of good bread. Feel free to substitute your favorite ingredients; when we make this, they almost always vary, depending on what is available at the market.

3 large heirloom tomatoes, chopped small

1 pint cherry tomatoes, sliced in half

1 medium red onion, chopped small

3 Hungarian wax peppers, chopped small

2 pints cremini or button mushrooms, quartered

12 ounces Monterey jack cheese, chopped small (or use your favorite medium firm cheese)

10–12 ounces dry-cured chorizo or any smoked or paprika salami, chopped small

For the dressing

1 cup extra virgin olive oil ½ cup red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon spicy Hungarian paprika powder  1 tablespoon ground black pepper 2 tablespoons parsley leaves, torn 2 tablespoons fresh marjoram leaves 2 tablespoons chopped dill

1–1½ tablespoons sea salt

Finely chop heirloom tomatoes, onion and pepper, being careful to save the tomato juice.

Whisk dressing ingredients together with reserved tomato juice. Add chopped tomatoes, onion, peppers, halved cherry tomatoes and mushrooms. Allow to marinate covered in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

Stir in chopped cheese and dry-cured meat before serving. Serves 4–6.

El Mercado Farmers’ Market 2–6PM April 20 through Oct. 26 Ramsay Park, Watsonville 831.726.4257 pvhealthtrust.org

CASFS Farmstand Noon–6pm June through November 23 Cowell Ranch Hay Barn at UCSC 831.459.3240 casfs.ucsc.edu

Wednesday

Downtown Santa Cruz Farmers’ Market 1–6pm· Year-round Lincoln and Cedar · 831.454.0566 santacruzfarmersmarket.org

Friday

Watsonville Certified Farmers’ Market 2–7pm· Year-round Watsonville City Plaza, Peck & Main streets 831.588.736 facebook.com/watsonvillefarmersmarket/

This really is the best time of year. The weather is amazing, the traffic has lessened since most of the tourists have left and the autumn light kisses our landscapes with that dazzling golden glow. But really, what makes this the ultimate season is the food. We have it all! Summer bounty meets harvest season galore at the farmers’ markets, tempting our culinary minds with endless possibilities. Tomatoes and figs and eggplant and apples and melons and delicata squash...it’s all here, right now, ready for feasting and offering a reason to gather safely once again.

CASFS Farmstand Noon–6pm • June through November 19 Cowell Ranch Hay Barn at UCSC 831.459.3240 • casfs.ucsc.edu

Saturday

Aptos Certified Farmers’ Market

8am–Noon · Year-round 6500 Soquel Drive · 831.728.5060 montereybayfarmers.org

Westside Santa Cruz Market 9am–1pm· Year-round 2801 Mission St. · 831.454.0566 santacruzfarmersmarket.org

Scotts Valley Farmers’ Market 9am–1pm . May through November Scotts Valley Square/KMART Parking Lot off Mount Hermon Road 831.454.0566

Sunday

Monday

Pacific Grove Certified Farmers’ Market

3–7pm· Year-round Central and Grand avenues 831.384.6961 · everyonesharvest.org

Tuesday

Carmel Barnyard Certified Farmers’ Market

9am–1pm May through September 3690 The Barnyard 831.728.5060 montereybayfarmers.org

Alisal Certified Farmers’ Market

11am–4pm May to October 632 E. Alisal St., Salinas 831.384.6961 everyonesharvest.org

Old Monterey Marketplace & Farmers’ Market 4–8pm Year-round Alvarado Street 831.655.2607 oldmonterey.org

Wednesday

Natividad Certified Farmers’ Market

11am–3:30pm· May to October 1441 Constitution Blvd., Salinas 831.384.6961 · everyonesharvest.org

Thursday

Carmel–by-the-Sea Farmers’ Market

10am–2pm· Year-round 6th and Mission streets 831.402.3870 goodrootsevents.com

Soledad Certified Farmers’ Market 4–8pm· April 2 to October 7 137 Soledad St. · 831.674.2849

Friday

Monterey Certified Farmers’ Market

8am–noon · Year-round 1410 Del Monte Center 831.728.5060 montereybayfarmers.org

Salinas Valley Memorial Certified Farmers’ Market 12:30–5:30pm · May to November 450 E. Romie Lane, Salinas · 831.384.6961 everyonesharvest.org

Saturday

Old Town Salinas Farmers’ Market

9am–2pm · Year-round 12 W. Gabilan Street, Salinas 650.815.8760 wcfma.org/salinas

Sunday

Carmel Valley Certified Farmers’ Market

10am–2pm · Year-round Mid-Valley Shopping Center, 550 Carmel Valley Road 650.290.3549 · wcfma.org

Marina Certified Farmers’ Market

10am–2pm · Year-round 215 Reservation Road · 831.384.6961 everyonesharvest.org

Monterey Certified Farmers’ Market

8am–noon · May through September 1410 Del Monte Center 831.728.5060 montereybayfarmers.org

towards soledad

castroville pacific grove carmel valley

You won’t believe your taste buds! Elroy’s organic* vegetables and fruits are the freshest you can buy without picking it yourself.

That’s because our in-house Farmer Jamie Collins has created a unique network of local organic family farms within 60 miles of our store. One, Serendipity Farms, is just 4 miles away. Often harvested on the day of delivery.

Jamie picks out uncommon and heirloom varieties that other stores don’t offer you. Look for Japanese cucumbers from Hikari Farms. Or the multi-colored raspberries from JSM Farms.

Day-of-delivery freshness means higher nutrition. And it means our produce is at the peak of flavor. Proof? Just one bite of our berries or green onions.

Elroy’s knows that small farms are the backbone of biodiversity, of strong communities and of a better food system. Which is why we pay fair prices set by the farmers themselves. And why we support start-up farms that can deliver flavor and freshness.

However, when we cannot source a particular product locally, we buy from Veritable Vegetable, a woman-owned wholesaler whose values and pickiness match ours.

Now it’s your turn to be picky. Pick Elroy’s for your produce!

EDIBLE PROVISIONS

PHOTO AND STYLING BY THE CURATED FEAST

When the cooler autumn weather finally arrives, we hope you are inspired to start baking. Or at least go out and buy a sweet pie from one of our fine local bakers. These are some of our favorites: (clockwise from top left) strawberry rhubarb pie from Sweet Elena’s (Sand City); olallieberry pie from Gizdich Ranch (Watsonville); mixed berry streusel pie from Companion Bakeshop (Santa Cruz and Aptos); apple pie from The Buttery (Santa Cruz); peach blueberry pie from Sweet Reba’s (Carmel); and sweet potato pie from Percy’s Pies (Marina).

IN THE ORCHARD

A Seasonal Life

Suppliers of rare fruits and foraged ingredients to the finest restaurants, this couple is behind some of the Monterey Bay area’s most memorable meals

BY MARIA GAURA PHOTOGRAPHY BY CRYSTAL BIRNS

Ellen Baker and Freddy Menge at their La Selva Beach homestead, also headquarters for Epicenter Avocado nursery.

The warm fog enveloping Freddy Menge and Ellen Baker’s half-acre homestead in La Selva Beach will probably burn off by afternoon. But at 10am the misty swirls make you feel you’ve stepped into a wizard’s garden of fantastical fruits, beckoned by strangely delicious berries and oddly-shaped trees offering a different treat on every branch.

Menge deftly winds through the narrow garden pathways, brushing aside squash leaves and overhanging branches. He thrusts an arm into the canopy of a shaggy tree and brings forth a handful of perfectly sweet-tart mulberries. A few steps later there are soft-textured sour cherries, taut blue serviceberries, a green fig, a nectaplum, a “Steve Silva” green bean.

A short, craggy apple tree is crowned with more than 30 grafted branches, and lush avocado trees hung with fruits glow greenly in the bright mist. Most of the edibles are offbeat varieties—nothing you’d find at an everyday grocery store. When done tasting, you wing the pits into the bushes and wipe your hands on your jeans.

How many fruit trees are there? “I honestly don’t know,” Menge cheerfully admits. “I stopped counting. Lots and lots? Clearly, I’m pretty bad at drawing boundaries.”

Menge grew up in La Selva Beach, mostly on the same property he now shares with Baker. He began grafting fruit trees and growing heritage apples more than 30 years ago, learning the ropes from experts in the California Rare Fruit Growers (CRFG) network, including local orchardists Jim Ryder, Orin Martin, Joe Stabile and Gene Lester. Today, Menge forages mushrooms and wild plants, grows an expansive kitchen garden and trials a staggering number of apple varieties in a leased orchard in nearby Aptos. He runs an avocado nursery with Baker—Epicenter Avocado Trees and Fruit—and has organized annual apple tastings for the CRFG for more than 20 years.

He’s a plantsman to the core. But Menge’s path to agriculture was anything but direct. He played competitive golf in middle and high school, and graduated from UC Berkeley with a degree in “some kind of anthropology” before taking a job designing golf clubs in Taiwan. He became fluent in Mandarin and the job allowed him to pay off his college debt. But the things he loved about China didn’t include golf. Instead, his passions were traditional agriculture,

traditional medicine and the country folk’s deep knowledge of wild plants and mushrooms.

“I lived in Taiwan for three years and I’d avidly seek out people gathering mushrooms and snails and seaweed and whatever,” Menge says. “I tried all the strange local foods. I’d ride my bike 100 miles down the coast and every little town had different dishes, different edible plants, things you wouldn’t see anywhere else.

“It was really interesting, this dichotomy of rural people living like they lived 500 years ago, just 100 miles from the grossest, nastiest, industrialized city,” Menge says. “Even with modernization there was room for rural and rustic production systems, and the city people valued it. Their version of ‘organic’ was ‘grown in the mountains.’ I thought, why not do that at home in California?”

FREDDY THE FORAGER

A turning point came in 1989 with a visit home and a walk in the woods. “I discovered chanterelles,” Menge recalls. “I found my first ones shortly after the Loma Prieta earthquake. I started mushroom hunting and that was the end of my golf club career.”

A six-month transition out of his design job was followed by a headlong plunge into the seasonal life of foraging, husbandry, orcharding and local foods, both gathered and cultivated. Menge also helped his mother and brother take over the Par 3 Golf Course in Aptos, which his father had operated since the 1970s.

“It was fun, My mom and brothers and I were really close,” he says. “I worked at the golf course and on the garden, I gave up my car and just rode my bike everywhere and tended my own projects. I was doing life in a different way.”

Menge foraged wild mushrooms—chanterelles, porcinis, black trumpets, candy caps— and sold them to chefs at Carried Away, Chez Renee, La Posta and Bernardus Lodge in Carmel Valley. Over time, his client list expanded to include Pizzeria Avanti, Home, The Midway, Oswald, Bantam, Soif, Gabriella Café, Carmel Valley Ranch, Aubergine, Alta Bakery and Star Bene. He raised bees with his brother and sold the honey to Aptos Natural Foods. He raised vegetables and sold what the family didn’t eat.

Hiking and outdoor labor satisfied a lifelong physical restlessness, and the vast number

When he’s not foraging for mushrooms, Menge tends an apple orchard, where he constantly tinkers with new varieties.

of variables involved in farming provided grist for research and experimentation.

Menge began grafting new branches on elderly red and golden delicious apples trees in his mom’s garden—the same trees that now sport dozens of transplanted limbs. But helping a friend tend a 10-acre orchard of heritage apples was a revelation.

“It wasn’t the beginning but it was a kick in the ass because that little orchard in Corralitos had a lot of different apples. There were a lot of things I hadn’t tasted before,” Menge says. “It was the beginning of my awareness of all the interesting apples out there.

“At the time I thought, this is fun! This seasonal life, with mushrooms in the winter, honey in the summer, harvesting fruit in the fall—your activities vary with the season,” he says. “I thought I’d do it for three years then get a teaching degree or something, get a real job. But that never happened. I fell in love with it, maybe too much.

“It’s an idiotic profession, in a way, because you’re at the mercy of weather and changing climate,” he says. “But I physically need to be outside. And it’s mind-blowing in a really good year when the forest floor is painted in washes of chanterelles. Those big flushes of mushrooms, that’s something most people never get to see.”

Mushrooms and apples led to bees. And honeybees led to love, and marriage, when Menge’s beekeeping mentor—the late, legendary Ormond Aebi—handed him Ellen Baker’s phone number.

Baker was an active member of CRFG, adept at fruit tree grafting and a committed gardener. She hunted mushrooms, kept bees, had an aquaponics project going, studied medicinal and edible plants and made miso, tempeh and tofu from scratch.

“She took me into her little greenhouse and had galangal and turmeric growing,” Menge remembers. “And in her garage, she dropped my jaw with a wall of monstrously fruiting shiitake logs. Everything was done in a low-tech, home-brew, super frugal way that I found irresistible. She was way ahead of me in a lot of ways and did it all while keeping her car a lot cleaner than I managed to.”

Menge bought half of his mother’s oneacre property in La Selva Beach, where the couple built a home from salvaged cypress trees and doubled down on creating an organic kitchen garden, farm, apiary and tree nursery. There were also chickens and pigs and a well-loved milk cow.

Menge says Baker is the organizer who sequences the crops, plans annual production and manages their avocado tree nursery. “She’s also pretty good with a mattock and a manure shovel,” he quips. “She’s into this lifestyle too or she wouldn’t have touched me with a 10foot pole.”

APPLE CRAVINGS

But the home garden wasn’t big enough to contain a burgeoning apple obsession, and in the early aughts Menge began planting trees on a lovely parcel in Larkin Valley owned by

“This orchard is a farfetched project and not super lucrative, but they’re happy to get some of the fruit and see the land being used,” he says. “It has become a friendship that’s valuable to all of us.”

Even after 15 years, the Aptos orchard is a shapeshifting work-in-progress. Scores of new saplings are planted for every one that produces promising fruit, and heirloom varieties that are celebrated in their places of origin don’t always thrive in Aptos. Failures are unsentimentally dealt with.

“I re-graft 5 to 10 percent of the orchard every year and take out a row and a half of apples,” he says. “I change varieties from things that don’t pan out to things I’m more excited about. A lot of heirloom apples don’t

Rich and DeAnne Hart. Menge credits his landlords as friends who support the preservation of heritage apples and the ongoing development of improved varieties.

“It’s an idiotic profession, in a way, because you’re at the mercy of weather and changing climate.”

Menge has been able to persuade cherries to grow in Aptos and rare red-fleshed apples.

work in our climate, or don’t fruit well, or it’s too hot for them, or they taste bad. They’re revered in their hometowns but here they’re kind of crappy.”

There’s a smattering of experimental pears, European plums and cherries alongside the apples, because the site’s microclimate seemed to suit them. But when the first planting of cherries drowned in the wet winter soil, Menge created a three-tier grafting scheme that used plum rootstock topped with a midsection of plum/peach/cherry hybrid wood, topped with the desired cherry branches.

“It worked,” he says with a rueful grin. “Now I can grow cherries here. But this is the first good crop I’ve had in 15 years of experimenting, so it’s not exactly a rational use of my time.”

If more evidence of contrariness were needed, it’s noteworthy that Menge and Baker began selling their hard-to-find apples at the farmers’ market in the fall of 2020—in the midst of a global pandemic. But apple lovers masked up to check out their wares.

“People are so appreciative, it just makes us want to cry,” he says. “We’re grateful that it matters, and that when given an opportunity, people recognize and appreciate real quality fruit. People really care about good food.”

The years have not faded Menge’s experi-

mental zeal, except that he no longer bothers growing anything that he doesn’t personally find delicious. The hundreds of apple varieties in his orchard and garden are increasingly focused on the more-robust offspring of Cox’s orange pippins and red-fleshed apples such as pink pearl, grenadine, rubaiyat and pink parfait.

“I’ve grown and tasted maybe 500 types of apples, but there are more than 3,000 known varieties,” he said. “There’s plenty of room for experimentation in my future.”

Maria Gaura is a lifelong writer, journalist and gardener. She lives in downtown Santa Cruz with her family, two elderly cats and an ambivalent garden that can’t decide if it wants to be a vegetable patch, a flower bed or a miniature orchard.

IF YOU GO

Menge and Baker will resume selling heirloom varieties of pears, apples, European plums and more at the Westside Farmers’ Market in Santa Cruz on Saturdays from early September through November.

The date and location for this year’s California Rare Fruit Growers Apple Tasting was still uncertain at press time, so check the group’s website at mbcrfg.org or subscribe to the EMB newsletter for updates.

EDIBLE ENTERTAINING TOTAL VEGETABLES

When the whole is greater than the sum of the parts RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JESSICA TUNIS AND AMBER TURPIN

What a delight it is to gather together again, around a feasting table. There is something quite special about serving a vegetable in its entirety that feels especially appropriate this year, a kind of ceremony of wholeness. While the cooking times may be slightly longer when preparing whole vegetables, the end result is impressive and worth the extra time, making these dishes perfect for serving at a holiday party or on some special, autumnal occasion.

Cauliflower or Romanesco with Tahini Sauce

1 large or 3 small heads of cauliflower or romanesco

¼ cup salt

Olive oil

1 tablespoon barberries

Tahini sauce (recipe below)

Sesame seeds

Preheat oven to 425° F. Fill a large stockpot with water. Add the salt and bring to a boil. Lower the cauliflower in head down, boil until just tender to the tip of a knife, 5–10 minutes depending on the size.

Drain the cauliflower into a colander and pat dry. Place heads, right side up, on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

Gently pry open cauliflower florets and drop several barberries between each branch. Pour tahini sauce over the cauliflower and massage it between the florets to coat. Roast for 30–40 minutes until golden brown.

Remove from the oven and spoon a bit more sauce over the top. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and any remaining barberries as garnish. Alternatively, toast whole coriander and cumin seeds and sprinkle them over the top. Serves 4–6.

Tahini Sauce

½ cup tahini

¼ cup olive oil

Juice of 1 lime

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

2 teaspoons coconut amino acids

2 teaspoons ras el hanout

1 teaspoon maple syrup

1 teaspoon coriander

3 cloves garlic, minced or finely grated with microplane

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and whisk until smooth.

Note: If sauce curdles due to acid in the lime juice, add ½ teaspoon of water, a few drops at a time, until it becomes smooth again.

Whole Carrots With Green Sauce

1 bunch large carrots ¼ cup olive oil

Salt to taste

Preheat oven to 425° F. Rip the tops off the carrots and set aside for a different use (or for the green sauce, if desired). Place the carrots in a medium-sized cast iron or ceramic baking dish. Add the olive oil and salt and mix to coat evenly. Roast for about 40 minutes or until tender and caramelized.

Meanwhile, make the green sauce (recipes in EMB Spring 2020 issue).

When carrots are done, remove from the oven and place on a serving platter. Drizzle with the green sauce.

Note: If you are using the carrot tops in the green sauce, blanch them in hot water for 1 minute to tenderize and preserve the green color. Serves 4–6.

Winter Squash Dip

2 small winter squash (butternut, kabocha, acorn or a combination) 1/3 cup olive oil 4 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon smoked paprika 1/3 cup roasted almonds, chopped

Preheat oven to 325° F. Place the whole squash on a parchment-lined, rimmed baking sheet and prick all over with the tip of a paring knife. Set the baking sheet on a rack in the middle of the oven and roast until very tender, about 1½–2 hours. (For quicker cooking, roast at 425° F for 1 hour.) Cut a strip from the very top of the squash and let sit until cool enough to handle.

Scoop the seeds and fibers out of the cooked squash, until only the flesh remains inside the skin. Scoop out the flesh and place in a mixing bowl,

leaving a small amount of flesh around the skin wall so it doesn’t collapse.

In a small frying pan, heat the oil over very low heat. Add the garlic and swirl pan until golden brown. Be careful not to overcook; the garlic will burn easily. Remove from heat and add the balsamic vinegar, salt and smoked paprika. Stir well to combine.

Add the oil mix to the mixing bowl with the squash flesh and stir well until it forms a smooth paste. Place this mixture back into the cooked squash. Sprinkle the top with the chopped almonds. Serve with crackers and goat cheese. Serves 4–6.

Contributors Amber Turpin and Jessica Tunis live in the Santa Cruz Mountains and have been friends for a long time. They share a love of food and writing, adventure and good company.

ON THE FARM GOOD GOBBLERS

Pasture-raised turkeys form part of the ecosystem at local farms and ranches

BY KATHRYN MCKENZIE PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALICIA ARCIDIACONO

Not many people would associate turkeys with sensitivity, intelligence or friendliness—let’s face it, most of us think of them as being big dumb birds.

But the local farmers who raise turkeys say they’re lively, inquisitive and anything but stupid.

“They’re very curious creatures. That makes them fun to work with,” says Martha Skelley, livestock farmer at Paicines Ranch, south of Hollister in San Benito County. The myths that are told about turkeys arise because “hu-

mans like to oversimplify animal behavior.”

In fact, when you visit the ranch and hang out with the turkeys, you realize they are, indeed, very intrigued by visitors and not bashful at all. On this particular 90°-plus day, the turkeys are gathered in patches of shade, but still look up quizzically when a new human walks by.

“They’re going to check you out,” says Mary Rowen, manager of event planning and pastured meats at the ranch. “They love anything shiny, so watch your keys.”

As we walk among the white-feathered birds, one of the 400 hens ambles over and gives us the eye, tilting its head to get a better look at the interlopers, and as Rowen predicted, starts pecking at my jeans. “Sometimes they’re super-talkative,” notes Skelley, and the birds will carry on a gobbling conversation with those who care for them.

The Paicines turkeys are moved around every other day, inside a mobile fence where they can forage and scratch on certified organic ranchland, and receive ample water and daily feed. It is a far cry from how the vast majority of turkeys are raised in the United States at factory farms. Not only is this better in terms of the resulting flavor, it’s also better for the land itself—and, needless to say, the turkeys live out their lives in a beautiful place with humane and tender treatment.

It’s all part of the philosophy that guides pasture-raised meats in general—that using best practices for the animals and for the land benefits everyone. At Paicines Ranch, it’s about restoring the soil, increasing biodiversity and encouraging native plants to grow on land that was conventionally farmed for decades.

The ranch uses a unique livestock rotation technique to nurture the soil, which previously had been hard-packed, heat-cracked and full of invasive weeds like thistles and hemlock. Now the ground beneath our feet is richer and darker, with native perennial

grasses taking hold. “It’s looking really good,” says Rowen.

On this spread, sheep are first on deck in mobile pasturing, followed by pigs and then the turkeys. It’s a different kind of grazing, says Skelley, where the sheep eat from the top down, pigs scour the bottom, and the turkeys scratch and leave droppings that help build soil health. Skelley says grazing in this rotation builds resilience and fertility.

Paicines Ranch has been an experiment in progress since 2001, when Matt Christiano and Sallie Calhoun purchased the 7,600-acre property and began a regenerative ranching project to return native grasses to the landscape through planned grazing. This has since expanded to working with natural systems to rebuild the ranch ecosystem.

However, as with any outdoor livestock venture, there are always unknowns and variables for the turkeys. Predators like bobcats and coyotes lurk nearby, eagles have been known to snatch a young bird or two and huge California condors also fly by. That’s why guardian dogs now watch the flock 24/7.

It’s not easy finding pastured turkey in the Monterey Bay area. Paicines Ranch, Sol Seeker Farm in south Monterey County and Root Down Farm in Pescadero all have pastured turkey flocks; all typically sell out their supply of whole turkeys in the fall.

Not only are customers interested in the fact that these turkeys are raised humanely,

says her turkeys aren’t dumb.

they also value them for flavor. Pastured turkeys have “many flavor notes that one does not experience with conventionally housed birds,” Skelley explains. “The meat is tender and mouth-watering because it is a reflection of our complex pasture plants and nutrientdense feed.

“Pasture adds terroir to the animal like in wine, and they are a reflection of our landscape,” she says.

Unlike most locally pastured meats, turkey is raised mainly for the holiday season, because that’s when there is demand—putting turkey on the table for Thanksgiving and Christmas is a time-honored American tradition.

However, farmers also are observing more year-round demand for ground turkey, which many home cooks have adopted as a lowfat substitute for ground beef. Rowen says they’re hoping to offer more in the future, since it’s a good seller.

Paicines Ranch livestock farmer Martha Skelley

“So many people have been asking for ground turkey this year—we’ve been sold out for months,” she says.

What it takes to raise pastured turkeys is space, which is why Sol Seeker’s Edgar Mendoza and Kaley Grimland de Mendoza bought 40 acres of farmland near Lockwood, some 70 miles south of Salinas, and moved their operations from Santa Cruz County in 2020.

The Mendozas typically raise between 75 and 100 turkeys, which is a small percentage of their overall poultry flock, which runs around 3,500 birds. Meat chickens, ducks, Cornish game hens and eggs are Sol Seeker’s mainstays, but for Kaley, turkeys are special.

“The turkeys are my favorites. I start gobbling and they’ll gobble back,” she says.

The Sol Seeker birds get organic feed in addition to eating whole wheat with grit. “It makes an already tasty bird into an even tastier one,” she says.

Sol Seeker has both heritage bourbon red and broad-breasted white turkeys; Paicines Ranch has only broad-breasted whites, but Rowen and Skelley are discussing adding a heritage breed.

These farmers pride themselves on raising high-quality turkeys with love and care, giv-

ing the birds free access to the outdoors and green forage. That humane treatment makes a difference to customers who want to support such efforts.

“They have a pretty good life with us,” says Skelley.

Kathryn McKenzie, who grew up in Santa Cruz and now lives on a Christmas tree farm in north Monterey County, writes about the environment, sustainable living and health for numerous publications and websites. She is the co-author of Humbled: How California’s Monterey Bay Escaped Industrial Ruin.

WHERE TO BUY

Local pastured turkey can be purchased through the following websites; some packaged turkey pieces and ground turkey may become available via the website stores and at local farmers’ markets.

Paicines Ranch: paicinesranch.com • 831.628.0288 • info@paicinesranch.com

Root Down Farm: rootdownfarm.org • 650.879.9921 • info@rootdownfarm.org

Sol Seeker Farm: solseeker.org • solseekerfarm@gmail.com

EDIBLE D.I.Y.

ELDERBERRY GUMMIES

A fun project to boost immunity STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY

BY ALEXANDRA HUDSON

The local gems of cold and flu season are currently ripening in abundance on trees and shrubs around the Monterey Bay area. The fruit of Sambucus spp., or elder tree, is used traditionally for immune nourishment and tonification, prevention and treatment of influenza viruses and soothing anti-inflammatory action. Elderberries are harvested in the late summer into fall, separated from the stems, leaves and twigs, and dried for use throughout the winter in syrups, compotes, wines and jams, and as a healthful tart addition to muffins and pastries. While harvesting one’s own berries can be a beautiful experience in itself, many apothecaries and retailers sell bulk dried berries that are perfectly convenient for home medicine-making.

The following recipe takes elderberry syrup and solidifies it into delightful gummies with a craveable chewy texture. The

gummies are formed in silicone molds that can be purchased online or at a specialty baking store. Most gummy molds come with a plastic syringe for easily and evenly moving the mixture into them.

A few words of advice: These gummies incorporate sorbitol, an alcohol sugar with a gummy texture that in large amounts can have a laxative effect; one needn’t be concerned about this though unless they were to eat all 200+ gummies in one sitting. Additionally, given how they boost the immune system, elderberries are not recommended for those with severe autoimmune conditions who take immunosuppressant medications. If you or people you give these to are currently taking pharmaceuticals, check first for contraindications to ensure the treats will not have adverse effects.

Elderberry Gummies

1 teaspoon MCT oil or warmed coconut oil

10 tablespoons elderberry syrup, homemade (recipe below) or purchased 4 ounces coconut sugar

2 ounces honey

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/8 teasoon salt

1½ tablespoons sorbitol ¾ ounce (7 teaspoons) gelatin 2 teaspoons citric acid

For the elderberry syrup

½ cup dried elderberries

2 cups water

3-inch piece fresh ginger, sliced or 1 tablespoon dried ginger 2 cinnamon sticks 2 ounces honey

To make syrup, simmer elderberries with water, ginger, and cinnamon in a small pot on very low heat for about 20 minutes until reduced by half. Remove pot from heat and let sit until cool enough to handle. Pour through a sieve or nut milk bag and separate liquid from the mash; pulp can be set aside and used elsewhere. Return liquid to heat and reduce down to ½ cup, then stir in 2 ounces honey until smooth. Pour into a small heat-proof bowl and set aside until cool to the touch.

Prepare gummy molds by lightly oiling with a fine paintbrush dipped in oil. The gummy mixture becomes very sticky once it has cooled and gummies are much easier to pop out of oiled molds. Place gummy molds on a baking tray for easy transport to fridge.

Mix vanilla and salt into the elderberry syrup you’re using, store bought or homemade. Sprinkle the gelatin powder onto the surface of the syrup at a pace slow enough for it to be absorbed fully and not congeal into clumps. This will take a few minutes and a bit of stirring. Once gelatin is fully added, set mixture aside for 5 minutes to bloom.

Combine sugar, honey and sorbitol in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring gently over medium heat just until the sugar crystals dissolve. Scrape down the sides as the mixture simmers to incorporate stray crystals. Stir in citric acid.

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Set it aside. Pour the simmered sugar mixture into the bloomed gelatin. Stir gently without aerating until it is fully combined and sorbitol is completely melted. Set the bowl with gelatinized syrup on top of the hot pot so that the steam keeps the mixture warm. This will keep the gummy paste from setting too quickly and becoming unworkable.

Use your plastic syringe to gently squeeze your gummy mixture into the molds. Fill each little space to the max without overfilling in order to have the biggest, plumpest gummy bears, and avoid making bubbles. If the mixture sets up as you go, replace the hot water underneath the bowl so that the mixture stays liquefied. Overheating this mixture by boiling it can destroy the congealing effect of the gelatin and prevent gummies from setting properly.

Once molds are filled, place gummies in fridge for an hour or so until they firm up. When they are able to easily pop out of the molds, take the gummies out one by one and place them on a plate. Return the plate to fridge for gummies to further dry for a few days and harden to your desired texture. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a month or in the freezer and enjoy liberally to boost immune health in cold and flu season. Makes 200+ 1-inch gummies.

Alexandra Hudson is a California-born clinical herbalist, wild foods chef and holistic educator. She lives with her family out in the Day Valley redwoods, where she tends to her land and offers classes and sessions to clients. For more information on Hudson’s practice and classes, visit alchemistress.world.

EAT. DRINK. THINK.

On the following pages, we bring you the second in a series of thought leadership stories that span topics of sustainability, access to healthy foods and nutrition, restaurant revitalization and regenerative agriculture. These are the values that Edible Communities, as an organization, has been devoted to for the past two decades. Our work lends itself to the singular notion that excellent storytelling has the power to change lives, and that by exploring and elevating important conversations like these, we can effect everlasting change in our communities too.

Please join us in supporting the work of our featured subjects—Michel Nischan, sustainable food advocate and co-founder of Wholesome Wave; and native food historian and chef, Dr. Lois Ellen Frank—two heroes from our

local communities who are tireless champions in the battle against nutrition insecurity and hunger.

Dr. Frank says “the power of one can be huge,” and we could not agree more. One person, one organization, one community—each purpose driven, can massively impact our food system. We believe that every person should have access to a high-quality diet that is filled with nutritious foods that are raised and grown using sustainable practices. As consumer advocates we all play a critical role in reshaping the demand for this, and we all must be diligent in advancing this agenda if we are to ensure that no one is left behind.

Tracey Ryder Co-Founder, Edible Communities

Chef Michel Nischan Photo courtesy of Wholesome Wave

RETHINKING HUNGER

Why Feeding Those in Need Must Focus on Nourishment

STORY BY Joy Manning

When anyone in a community struggles with food insecurity, it’s everybody’s problem. In the United States alone, an estimated $90 billion in excess healthcare costs annually are associated with food insecurity, according to research from the Sodexo Stop Hunger Foundation’s study conducted by researchers affiliated with Harvard’s School of Public Health, Brandeis University and Loyola University. The social and emotional toll hunger takes on communities is harder to quantify, but no less deeply felt.

But of course, for those personally experiencing food insecurity, the problems are impossible to ignore. For those receiving SNAP (Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program) benefits, getting the most calories for their dollar is likely at the forefront of their mind, and sometimes that means families eat more processed foods than they’d like. Michel Nischan, a four-time James Beard Award-winning chef and sustainable food movement leader, is working to change that. And for Wholesome Wave, the nonprofit he founded in 2007, it is a primary goal.

Wholesome Wave recently reset its priorities, in fact, and will now squarely focus on nutrition—not food—insecurity. The goal is to change the way people think about hunger.

Th e distinction between food security and nutrition security is a critical one, according to Nischan. Most North Americans have access to enough calories to avoid hunger thanks to government programs, food banks and hunger relief organizations. “ Th is makes them technically ‘food secure,’ but they’re still not getting the nutrition they need to be healthy,” says Nischan. “We aren’t solving the real problem.

“It’s about people having the kind of diet that promotes good health and prevents disease,” he says. It’s also about

equality. Communities of color and those living in poverty in the U.S. got sick from COVID-19 at a rate two to three times higher than the rest of the country, according to the 2020 Wholesome Wave impact report. The underlying reasons why aren’t specific to the pandemic. “Four of the Top 5 drivers of this disparity are obesity, diabetes, hypertension and heart disease,” says Nischan. These are all chronic conditions that can be prevented and often reversed by increasing access to nutritious food.

Yet, when the foremost experts in hunger talk about hunger in terms of food security, it drives a cultural conversation that leads food banks to be well-stocked, but often it’s with ultra-processed food. “It has to be about more than getting meals on the table,” Nischan says.

To that end, Nischan and Wholesome Wave co-founder Gus Schumacher worked on a SNAP “doubling” program that makes every $1 a participant spends worth $2 when they buy produce. What began as a nascent pilot program in Columbia, Md., in 2005 has since grown into a federally funded program started by Wholesome Wave that helps more than 40 million people eat more greens and less instant ramen.

As part of Nischan’s shift to nutrition security, Wholesome Wave is also ramping up its Produce Prescription Program. It’s an umbrella program that partners with local organizations, such as hospitals and health clinics, to empower doctors to write prescriptions for nutrient-dense fruits and vegetables, often local, that patients pick up weekly, free of charge.

“Many people visit the doctor and hear, ‘If you don’t eat better, the next time I see you you’ll have type 2 diabetes,” says Nischan. His next big goal is securing Medicaid and

Medicare funding for these programs so they become as common as prescriptions are for drugs. “Your insurance company will pay for a kidney transplant, but not the vegetables that can prevent the disease,” he says.

Piloted in 2010, the Produce Prescription Program is ambitious, but peer-reviewed research shows that it works. A 2017 study published in Preventive Medicine Reports showed that participation in the program helped bring down participants’ A1C (a number that indicates one’s average blood sugar level). A 2012 study in the journal Public Health Nutrition showed produce prescriptions improve overall well-being.

HUNGER BY THE NUMBERS

The problem of food and nutrition insecurity across North America is incalculable, but these sobering statistics show that work still must be done to ensure everyone gets the nourishment they need to live a full life and prevent disease.

IN THE UNITED STATES:

35 million Americans live in households that struggle with food and nutrition insecurity.

84 percent of households served by Feeding America, a network of food banks, say they buy cheap food instead of fresh food to ensure they’ll have enough to eat.

27.5 percent of households with kids are food and nutrition insecure.

19.1 percent of Black households and 15.6% of Hispanic households experience food and nutrition insecurity.

1 in 19 Americans relies on SNAP benefits.

IN CANADA:

This is not to say that Nischan believes Wholesome Wave has all the answers. From the beginning, Wholesome Wave has partnered with local organizations to bring ideas and funding to a collaboration that fits the specific needs of its community. “We don’t want to be the organization that rides into your town with our solution to your problem. Addressing nutrition insecurity is different in every community,” he says. And, as we know, paying attention to those differences is critical to finding solutions.

Continued...

1 in 8 Canadian households faces food and nutrition insecurity.

1 in 6 Canadian children experiences food and nutrition insecurity.

In Ontario, 3,282,514 visits were made to food banks in 2019-2020.

Black and Indigenous people are 3 times more likely to be food and nutrition insecure than white people.

Image courtesy of Wholesome Wave

MARKETPLACE edible Communities

Indigenous communities, for example, live with some of the highest rates of food and nutrition insecurity in North America. A study published in 2017 in the Journal of Hunger & Environmental Nutrition found that from 2000 to 2010, 25% of American Indians and Alaska Natives were consistently food insecure. It’s a daunting statistic.

Dr. Lois Ellen Frank is a Santa Fe, N.M.-based chef and native food historian. She believes that the health and nutrition security of Indigenous communities (and all communities for that matter) can best be served by putting attention and energy into solutions and not focusing on the problems. Frank would rather focus on concrete tasks she can do to help. “I’m a big advocate of the power of one person,” she says. She provides culinary training to those who cook in community centers and schools to help people reconnect with traditional foodways through native plants and recipes.

Recently, she taught cooks in one school to make refried bean enchiladas with corn and zucchini in a red chili

sauce. “These are ancestral foods that promote wellness,” she says. After the training, 32 families received the prepared dish, plus the recipe and the ingredients they’d need to make it themselves. “You think you aren’t teaching that many people, but it’s a ripple effect,” she says. One family passes the information to another.

This passing of knowledge from one person to the next can help keep food traditions alive. “It takes only one generation for a recipe or a method of agriculture to disappear.”

And preserving these recipes and traditions matters when it comes to solving the problem of food insecurity. A 2019 study published in the journal Food Security suggests that tribal communities can achieve increased food security and better health outcomes if they have greater access to their traditional foods and the ability to hunt, fish and preserve native foods.

For some, starting a nonprofit organization is a great way to make a difference. But, as Dr. Frank also reminds us, helping just one person can have an impact too.

e

Dr. Lois Ellen Frank |

Photo by Daphne Hougard

Dine Local GUIDE

All of these restaurants emphasize local ingredients and they also advertise in Edible Monterey Bay! Opening information is subject to change, so please check online before you go and tell them we sent you.

APTOS

New Leaf Community Markets

Mentone

174 Aptos Village Way mentonerestaurant.com

Named after the Riviera town of Mentone, perched on the border of France and Italy, this new restaurant from celebrated chef David Kinch always delivers a good time. Centered on wood-fi red pizza made with 48-hour fermented dough in a Valoriani oven, the menu also includes inventive pasta dishes, salads, housemade gelato and craft cocktails. Open W–Su 5–9pm. Bar open F–Sa 5–10pm.

Persephone

7945 Soquel Drive 831.612.6511 • persephonerestaurant.com

With a namesake like the mythic Persephone, this restaurant in Aptos proclaims its deep reverence for seasonal cooking. Themes central to harvest, winter and spring are core to Persephone’s story, and are reflected in the changing menu at this fi ne dining destination, where chef Cori Goudge-Ayer presents inventive, ingredientdriven creations. The restaurant is a family-run passion project, bringing together parents, siblings and a long history of culinary arts in a beautifully redesigned space overlooking Aptos Creek. Open Th –Sa noon–3pm and 5–9pm, Su noon–3pm.

161 Aptos Village Way 831.685.8500 • newleaf.com

Th is latest branch of the beloved local market group occupies the remodeled Hihn Apple Barn, built in 1891. In addition to local groceries and organic produce, New Leaf Aptos has made-to-order sandwiches, pizza, freshly rolled sushi, soup and hand-prepped salads, as well as a coffee bar, juice and smoothie bar and organic Straus soft serve ice cream. Open daily 8am–9pm.

The Penny Ice Creamery

141 Aptos Village Way, Suite 2 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com

Open Su–Th noon–9pm, F–Sa noon–10pm. See Th e Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.

CAPITOLA

East End Gastropub

1501 41st Avenue 831.475.8010 • eastendpub.com

East End Gastropub is a sister eatery to the popular West End Tap & Kitchen, but aside from sharing owners and chefs, East End’s beautiful, modern interior is entirely different and offers its own robust, sophisticated, beer-friendly menu. Chef Geoffrey Hargrave has created dishes that are familiar yet innovative, such as crispy Brussels sprouts with maple miso glaze and fresh fish en papillote. Shared plates, pizzas and salads come in generous portions for a familystyle meal. The restaurant also offers a rotating selection of local beer and a strong wine list. Open M–Th 4–9pm, F noon–9pm, Sa-Su 11am–3pm for brunch, and 4–9pm.

Photo by Jules Holdsworth

Seafood paella is one of the classic Spanish dishes chef Brett Emerson creates at Barceloneta.

Margaritaville Capitola

231 Esplanade 831.476.2263 • margaritavillecapitola.com

For more than 30 years, Margaritaville has been welcoming guests to Capitola Village. An ownership change and complete remodel in 2015 made the restaurant better than ever, dedicated to serving Mexican cuisine made from scratch with an emphasis on fresh seafood. Th e dog-friendly patio overlooking Capitola beach is a great place to enjoy a margarita and a Baja fi sh taco, or raw oysters on the half shell. Other menu favorites are chile verde and chicken mole enchiladas. Online ordering is now available. Happy hour M–F 3–5pm. Open M–F 11:30am–9pm, Sa–Su 11am–9pm.

Mijo’s Taqueria

200 Monterey Avenue, Suite 2 831.465.0228 • mijostaqueria.com

Serving the local community and visitors alike in Capitola Village, Mijo’s Taqueria features bold and unique flavors in a new age taqueria setting. Chef Anthony Guajardo’s passion for cooking developed from being in his Mexican and Italian grandmothers’ kitchens growing up. Eager to combine his authentic family recipes with a modern culinary twist, he opened Mijo’s, conveniently located just a quick walk from the beach and available for dining in or ordering to go. Open Su–Th 11:30am–7pm, F–Sa 11am–7:30pm.

New Leaf Community Markets

1210 41st Avenue 831.479.7987 • newleaf.com

The café at the entrance off ers great alternatives to fast food, serving economical daily specials, wraps, pizza and homemade soup and espresso drinks—with free wi-fi in the outdoor dining area. Inside the market, a full deli has made-to-order sandwiches, healthy takeout salads and entrée items. Open daily 8am–9pm.

The Penny Ice Creamery 820 41st Avenue 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com Open Su–Th noon–10pm, F–Sa noon–11pm. See The Penny description under Santa Cruz for more.

Shadowbrook 1750 Wharf Road 831.475.1511 • shadowbrook-capitola.com

A Santa Cruz County landmark since 1947, the worldfamous Shadowbrook continues to be an overwhelming favorite with locals and visitors alike. Its fi ne food, extensive wine list and unparalleled setting and ambiance have earned it numerous awards, including Northern California’s “Most Romantic Restaurant” and “Best Date Night Restaurant.” Rock Room Lounge and Patio open daily noon–10pm, dining rooms open M–F 4–8:30pm, Sa 2–9:30pm, Su 2–8:30pm.

CARMEL

Alvarado Street Brewery & Bistro

Carmel Plaza, Suite 112 831.293.8621 • asb.beer

From the team behind award-winning Alvarado Street Brewery, the Carmel bistro off ers a full menu of ASB brews, along with hard cider, local wines and inventive craft cocktails. The menu goes beyond pub food to include oysters, fried calamari and ceviche, along with its popular burgers and truffle or garlic fries. Open Su–Th 11:30am–9pm, F–Sa 11:30am–10pm.

Earthbound Farm’s Farm Stand

7250 Carmel Valley Road 831.625.6219 • earthboundfarm.com

At its newly renovated Carmel Valley Farm Stand, Earthbound Farm’s 100% certified organic kitchen delights with housemade soups, sandwiches, salads, baked goods and fresh juices and smoothies. Food is available to be enjoyed on our beautiful grounds or for takeaway. Experience picturesque Carmel Valley as you stroll through Earthbound’s organic gardens and learn about its pioneering local heritage and commitment to organic integrity. And as always, pick up some fresh, local organic fruits and veggies to take home. Open daily 8am–6pm.

Grasing’s 6th Avenue and Mission 831.624.6562 • grasings.com

Chef-proprietor Kurt Grasing’s namesake restaurant has expanded since opening in 1998 to include two large dining rooms, multiple outdoor dining areas and the ever-popular bar/lounge. A Carmel classic located in the heart of the village, Grasing’s serves California cuisine, with an award-winning wine list and twists on traditional cocktails. Open daily M–F noon–3pm and 5–9pm, Sa–Su 10:30am–3pm and 5–9pm.

Rio Grill 101 Crossroads Boulevard 831.625.5436 • riogrill.com

Deeply fl avorful Southwestern cuisine is the specialty that executive chef Eduardo Coronel brings to the table for lunch and dinner. Go exotic with a corn truffle and wild mushroom tamale, go local with the fi re-roasted Castroville artichoke or go wild west with an order of almond wood smoked BBQ pork back ribs. Open Su–Th 11:30am–8pm, F–Sa 11:30am–9pm.

Sea Harvest Fish Market & Restaurant 100 Crossroads Boulevard, Suite A 831.626.3626 • seaharvestfishmarketandrestaurant.com

The Deyerle family that owns this local gem has its own fi shing boats for the freshest catch on the Monterey Peninsula. Sea Harvest doubles as a fi sh market and casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. The oysters and clam chowder are customer favorites, but don’t miss the fried combo platter, grilled fi llets and fi sh tacos. Open daily 8am–8pm.

The Stationaery

San Carlos Square, Between 5th and 6th avenues 831.250.7183 • thestationaery.com

A neighborhood restaurant off ering daily brunch and dinner, Th e Stationaery is owned by your hospitable hosts Anthony and Alissa Carnazzo. The kitchen team, led by chef Amalia Scatena, specializes in comforting flavors and local ingredients, with elegant presentations. Open Th –M 8am–2pm, 4–8pm. Closed Tu–W.

CARMEL VALLEY

Jerome’s Carmel Valley Market

2 Chambers Lane 831.659.2472 • jeromescarmelvalleymarket.com

A chef-owned, friendly neighborhood market, Jerome’s offers local and organic produce, natural meats and seafood, and a great selection of domestic and imported wine, beer and microbrews. French-trained chef and owner Jerome Viel prepares delicious hot foods, sandwiches and salads for eating at outdoor seating or take-away. The offerings start with breakfast burritos, croissants and other French pastries in the morning, followed by favorites such as coq au vin, spaghetti carbonara and chicken enchiladas for lunch and dinner. Open M–Sa 7am–7pm, Su 7am–6pm.

Lucia Restaurant & Bar

Bernardus Lodge & Spa • 415 W. Carmel Valley Road 831.658.3400 • bernarduslodge.com

Indulge in artisanal California country cuisine, awardwinning wines and an expansive heated outdoor terrace with the fi nest restaurant view in Carmel Valley. Named for the Santa Lucia mountain range and wine appellation that beckons to the south, Lucia offers both a signature tasting menu and dishes à la carte. Wine list is equally notable. A private chef’s table and wine cellar table are also available for special occasions. Open daily 7am–10pm.

FELTON

Wild Roots Market

6240 Highway 9 • 831.335.7322 (Felton) 13159 Highway 9 • 831.338.7211 (Boulder Creek) wildrootsmarket.com

Wild Roots’ 100% organic produce, natural groceries, organic meats and FishWise-certified seafood all go into the prepared foods offered by the store’s full-service deli, salad and soup bar and juice bar. Enjoy on the patio out in front or take home. Open daily 9am–9pm.

MONTEREY

Alta Bakery + Café

502 Munras Avenue 831.920.1018 • altamonterey.com

Set inside the historic Cooper Molera Adobe with a sunny outdoor patio, Alta Bakery is a bustling coffee house with exquisite breads and pastries from culinary director Ben Spungin and his team. Light lunch options change with the seasons and are beautifully presented, including salads, soups and the much-Instagrammed “obligatory avocado toast.” Open daily 7am–4pm.

the C restaurant + bar

InterContinental The Clement Monterey 750 Cannery Row 831.375.4500 • ictheclementmonterey.com

Step into the C restaurant + bar, and the bustle of Cannery Row will seem like a world away. Elegant yet relaxed, a stunning renovation opens up ocean views from the C’s floor-to-ceiling windows and oceanside deck. Executive chef Matt Bolton provides equally gorgeous food, imaginatively prepared from sustainably sourced seafood, meats and produce. Creative craft cocktails from mixologist Anthony Vitacca are sure to please. Open W–Th 7–11am, 5–9pm; F 7–11am, 5–10pm; Sa 7–11:30am, 5–10pm; Su 7–11:30am, 5–9pm. Closed M–Tu. Check website for return of lunch service.

Elroy’s Fine Foods

15 Soledad Drive 831.373.3737 • elroysfi nefoods.com

The dream market of owners Jay and Chloe Dolata, Elroy’s has an extensive range of gourmet groceries, local seafood, natural meats and fresh organic produce. It also boasts a kitchen with a wood-fi red grill and prepared foods to go or to eat in. The Bar @ Elroy’s serves coffee, smoothies and a savvy selection of natural wines. Open M–Sa 8am–8pm, Su 9am–7pm.

Estéban Restaurant 700 Munras Avenue 831.375.0176 • estebanrestaurant.com

At the heart of the downtown Monterey dining scene, Estéban Restaurant serves Spanish influenced cuisine made from fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. Th e menu features a selection of long-time Estéban favorites, as well as fresh, new dishes created by executive chef Ma-

rio Garcia, who spins out wonderful dishes like Crispy Pulpo, served with remoulade, Yukon potato, chorizo, rosemary chili oil and grilled radicchio. Open for dinner nightly 4–8pm. Tapas hour from 4–6pm nightly.

Montrio

414 Calle Principal 831.648.8880 • montrio.com

Closed for remodeling as of press time, Montrio is expected to reopen this fall with talented new executive chef Adrian Diday. The Virginia native has extensive fine dining credentials including stints at three-Michelin-starred restaurants, Daniel in New York and The Inn at Little Washington. He promises customer favorites using elevated techniques. Check online for opening information.

Sea Harvest Restaurant & Fish Market 598 Foam Street 831.626.0547 • seaharvestmonterey.com

Th is fresh and casual seafood spot near Cannery Row is perfect after a day exploring the Monterey Bay Aquarium. There are grilled entrées and lots of fried options with chips, including calamari, clams, prawns, scallops and oysters. Try Sea Harvest’s popular clam chowder or a basket of crispy artichoke hearts. Open daily 9am–7pm.

Tarpy’s Roadhouse 2999 Monterey-Salinas Highway 831.647.1444 • tarpys.com

An award-winning steakhouse serving generous portions of California comfort food, Tarpy’s Roadhouse occupies a sprawling 3½-acre property and stone building that used to be part of the Ryan Ranch homestead. In addition to expertly prepared steak, enjoy wood-fired salmon, chile-crusted chicken, braised lamb shank, classic meatloaf and smoked baby back ribs. Open Su–Th 11:30am–8pm, F–Sa 11:30am–9pm.

Wild Plum Café & Bakery 731 Munras Avenue 831.646.3109 • thewildplumcafe.com

Located in Old Monterey in a vibrant and diverse neighborhood, Wild Plum draws people from all walks of life with sustainable bistro fare that uses organic, locally sourced produce, hormone-free Diestel turkeys roasted on site, grass-fed beef and house-baked bread and pastries. Breakfasts include scrambles, omelets, and breakfast tacos and burritos, and for lunch, choose among soups, salads, sandwiches and paninis, burgers and house specialties. Food to go and catering available. Open W–M 7:30am–3:30pm, Tu closed.

MOSS LANDING

Sea Harvest 2420 Highway 1 831.728.7081 • @seaharvestmosslanding

Outdoor tables on a wooden deck overlooking Elkhorn Slough are the perfect place to enjoy fresh seafood hauled in by a fi sherman who is part of the Deyerle family that runs the restaurant. Choose from grilled catch of the day, shrimp Louie, fi sh and chips or some of the best Bajastyle battered fi sh tacos around. Open daily 11am–7pm.

PACIFIC GROVE

Happy Girl Kitchen Co. 173 Central Avenue 831.373.4475 • happygirlkitchen.com

The menu changes daily at Happy Girl’s airy and bright Pacific Grove café, but the food is always delicious, organic and reasonably priced. The sandwich of the day, bowl of the day and soup of the day are always a good

Carmel-by-the-Sea San Carlos & 7th 831.626.WINE (9463)

831.386.0316 Pouring from 11 AM

bet. To drink, you’ll fi nd kombucha on tap and freshly roasted Captain + Stoker coff ee brewed to perfection. Homemade baked goods include a daily scone, cookies and turnovers. Open daily 7am–5pm.

Julia’s Vegetarian 1180 Forest Avenue, Suite F 831.656.9533 • juliasveg.com

Voted the best vegetarian restaurant on the Monterey Peninsula for more that 10 years running. Julia’s is known for its wild and exotic mushrooms and housebrewed kombuchas on tap. The menu features a creative twist on vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free food. Try some of the most popular dishes like the fried “egg & bacon” sandwich, exotic mushroom sampler and buffalo cauliflower wings. Open Su–Th 10am–8pm, F–Sa 10am–9pm.

Mezzaluna 1188 Forest Avenue 831.372.5325 • mezzalunapasteria.com

Owners Chef Soerke Peters and Amy Stouffer keep their restaurant simple and amazing—and chef Peters is a leader in sustainability on the Monterey Peninsula. Pasta, mozzarella and gelato are made fresh daily. Starters include clam chowder with torched bone marrow, duck liver pâté and grilled octopus, and there are fi ve dishes starring locally crafted mozzarella. Pasta choices are imaginative and include options such as pappardelle with wine braised rabbit, Dungeness crab ravioli and potato gnocchi with gorgonzola and black truffle oil. Open W–Su 5–9pm. Closed M–Tu.

Wild Fish 545 Lighthouse Avenue 831.373.8523 • wild-fi sh.com

Owners Liz and Kelvin Jacobs welcome you to feast on the bounty of nearby waters and farms at their 100% local and organic seafood house, enjoying exquisite dishes like crispy sablefi sh, halibut and petrale sole, accompanied by local vegetables. Fresh oysters, innovative salads, house-baked bread and sides like fi ngerling potatoes with poppyseed crème fraîche or baby carrots with wild nettle pesto, make this a dining destination. Did we mention English sticky toffee pudding for dessert? Open Su–Th 11:30am–3pm and 5–8:30pm, F–Sa 11:30am–3pm and 5–9:15pm.

SANTA CRUZ

Barceloneta

1541 Pacific Avenue, Suite B 831.900.5222 • eatbarceloneta.com

With its cheerful beach stripes, wicker light fi xtures and whimsical details, dinner at Barceloneta can feel like a holiday. Owned by chef Brett Emerson and his wife Elan, who ensures service is superb, Barceloneta off ers Spanish tapas made with seasonal, farmers’ market produce and several types of authentic paella, along with Spanish wines, beers and cocktails. Open Tu–Sa 5–8:30pm. Closed Su–M.

Charlie Hong Kong 1141 Soquel Avenue 831.426.5664 • charliehongkong.com

Charlie Hong Kong has been providing the Santa Cruz community with healthy, sustainable, aff ordable and high-quality food since 1998. The colorful, casual eatery’s delicious fusion of Southeast Asian influences and the Central Coast’s local organic produce has made it an inclusive, family-friendly, neighborhood favorite. Its slogan is “love your body, eat organic,” and its

is proof that fast food can be good for you. All signature dishes are vegan with the option to add meat or fish. Gluten-free options are available. Dog friendly. Open daily 11am–10pm.

Chocolate 1522 Pacific Avenue 831.427.9900 • chocolatesantacruz.com

As its name suggests, there are all kinds of decadent chocolate desserts at Chocolate the restaurant, but this farm-to-fork local favorite is much more than a dessert spot. Everything is prepared simply and with local and organic ingredients whenever possible. From sandwiches, salads and soups at lunch to dinners that include chicken mole, barbecued roast pork and polenta plate, it’s all about celebrating the best of the Central Coast. Cocktails made with Santa Cruz-based Venus Spirits, a hot chocolate menu and local wines and beers can be found here as well. A party room for your special celebration is available, with seating and menu options to suit the occasion. Open Tu–Th and Su 4–8pm, F–Sa 4–9pm.

Closed M.

Crow’s Nest 2218 E. Cliff Drive 831.476.4560 • crowsnest-santacruz.com

A perfect spot to enjoy breakfast and lunch or catch a dinnertime sunset over the harbor, the nautical-themed Crow’s Nest is a Santa Cruz institution that never goes out of style. There’s always something happening, from live music to comedy nights and happy hours. Famous for its salads, house-smoked salmon and seafood entrées, the Crow’s Nest is a member of Seafood Watch and is a certified green business. Open M–F 9am–8:30pm, Sa–Su 8am–8:30pm.

Laílí 101B Cooper Street 831.423.4545 • lailirestaurant.com Exotic fl avors of the Silk Road are served in a stylish dining room decorated in eggplant and pistachio colors and on a hidden candlelit patio. Locals rave about Laílí’s homemade naan served warm from the oven with a selection of Mediterranean dips. There is a wide variety of deliciously spiced vegetable dishes, and all meats are hormone free and free range. Check website for opening information.

La Posta 538 Seabright Avenue 831.457.2782 • lapostarestaurant.com

A cozy neighborhood bistro not far from the Santa Cruz yacht harbor, La Posta chef Rodrigo Serna prepares traditional rustic Italian cuisine using local ingredients. The emphasis is on simple, seasonal selections, with the balance of the menu reflecting whatever produce is freshest right now. A sister restaurant of Soif Restaurant and Wine Bar, La Posta also offers a great selection of wines. Open W–Su 5–8pm, closed M–Tu.

New Leaf Community Markets 1134 Pacific Avenue 831.425.1793 • newleaf.com

New Leaf’s headquarters in a former bank building on Pacific Avenue is a worthwhile stop for all foodies. Crowded with gourmet natural foods, it also has a deli with sandwiches, salads and hot entrées. A dining area out front is great for people watching and listening to street musicians. Open daily 8am–9pm.

New Leaf Community Markets

1101 Fair Avenue 831.426.1306 • newleaf.com

The Westside New Leaf has a large deli counter and coffee bar, with a big selection of sandwiches, salads, bakery items, soups and other hot foods. You can eat at an instore counter or at tables outside. Open daily 7am–9pm.

Pearl of the Ocean 736 Water Street 831.457.2350 • facebook.com/pearloftheoceanca Award-winning chef/owner Ayoma Wilen goes beyond the expected traditional spice-infused dishes of Sri Lanka, creating locally inspired daily specials using fresh, organic produce from farmers’ markets and sustainably harvested seafood. Customer favorites include butternut squash curry, crab curry and wild salmon curry. To round out the flavor experience, there is a dizzying array of sides, like coconut leek sambal and kale mallam. The warm colors, altars and blessings that decorate the space help guests get a sense of Sri Lanka’s world-class hospitality, culture and beauty. Open daily 5–9pm.

The Penny Ice Creamery

913 Cedar Street 831.204.2523 • thepennyicecreamery.com

Lines out the front door of its converted Spanish bungalow are evidence of Penny’s popularity. All ice cream, including bases, is made from scratch on the premises using local organic ingredients when possible. Dozens of exotic fl avors rotate seasonally, but two favorites are chocolate caramel sea salt and strawberry pink peppercorn. Open daily noon–11pm.

The Picnic Basket 125 Beach Street 831.427.9946 • thepicnicbasketsc.com

Across the street from the main beach, owners of The Penny Ice Creamery have opened an alternative to boardwalk fast food. Sandwiches, organic salads, coffee and beer, all from local food artisans, and of course Penny’s popular ice cream, are all on offer to eat in or outside with your feet in the sand. Open daily 7am–4pm.

Snap Taco 1108 Pacific Avenue 831.824.6100 • eatsnaptaco.com

Th is festive taco spot draws its inspiration from food traditions around the world, with imaginative tacos created using the best fresh, local and sustainable ingredients. Great for a quick bite or gathering with friends and family. Choose from snacks, tacos, bowls and sandwiches on the menu, as well as draft beers, the Snap Rita and specialty cocktails. Open Su–Tu and Th 11:30am–9pm, F–Sa 11:30am–10pm, closed W.

Soif Restaurant and Wine Bar 105 Walnut Avenue 831.423.2020 • soifwine.com

Inspired by the offerings from local farmers and purveyors, executive chef Tom McNary’s cuisine shows California fl air with super, seasonal dishes, all paired with local and hard-to-fi nd wines, or a rotating selection of unique house cocktails. The bottle shop next door provides a world-class selection of wines and good advice on what to order. Raw oysters available on Wednesdays. Open W–Sa 1–8pm, Su noon–4pm, closed M–Tu.

Staff of Life 1266 Soquel Avenue 831.423.8632 • staffofl ifemarket.com

into a full service natural foods supermarket known for its local organic produce, seafood and natural meats as well as an extensive bulk department. Deli items and foods from the hot bar can be enjoyed at the Café del Sol. Open daily 8am–9pm.

Venus Spirits Cocktails & Kitchen

200 High Road 831.600.7376 • venusspirits.com

Craft distiller Sean Venus has his new facility fully operational. It includes a lively restaurant bar, the distillery itself and a tasting room. If you want to sample his award-winning gin and other spirits, try the tasting room. For cocktails and hearty plates from chef James Manss, head for the kitchen part of the building and enjoy dishes like crispy Brussels sprouts, mole baby back ribs and elote chile relleno. Open W–F 4–9pm, Sa noon–9pm, Su noon–8pm.

West End Tap & Kitchen 334D Ingalls Street 831.471.8115 • westendtap.com

Perfect for any parent looking for a happy hour to satisfy the whole family, adults and kids alike can’t get enough of the duck fat popcorn, fried calamari and flatbread pizzas. A diverse, season-driven menu with off erings like New York strip steak panzanella, seared oyster mushroom “scallops,” a Southern-style seafood boil and a long list of craft beers, ciders and wine options make West End a Westside staple. The outdoor patio is perfect for people watching amidst the bustling Swift Street Courtyard. Open daily noon–9pm.

WATSONVILLE

Beer Mule Bottle Shop + Pour House

45 Aviation Way 831.254.9789 • kickassbeer.com

The Beer Mule has 40 brews on tap and hundreds more in the fridge, with an emphasis on local and NorCal beer. Food—courtesy of Butchers & Th e Mule—includes dishes like four-cheese mac and cheese, barbacoa short rib tacos, grilled tri-tip cheesesteak, hot or not fried chicken sando and Butchers’ jambalaya. Open daily 11am–10pm.

Gizdich Ranch 55 Peckham Road 831.722.1056 • gizdich-ranch.com

Visitors from all over love this third-generation, familyrun farm business that popularized the “pik-yor-self” experience just east of Watsonville’s Interlaken neighborhood. Tour the farm, pick fresh apples or berries or watch the action inside the juice-pressing barn. No one leaves hungry if they spend time at the bakery-deli that pleases with its fresh pies, shortcakes and pastries, along with hearty sandwiches and box lunches. Th is family friendly experience is also a treat for kids, who will enjoy the wide-open spaces and the homemade popsicles. Open daily 9am–5pm.

Staff of Life 906 E. Lake Avenue 831.726.0240 • staffofl ifemarket.com

Opened last spring, Staff of Life’s second store in Watsonville is its fi rst and only branch. The store is sustainable down to its bones and includes all the natural groceries, organic produce and baked goods you’d fi nd at the Santa Cruz store, along with a juice and smoothie bar, freshly made sushi, a gelato bar, a full deli and a hot bar. Open daily 8am–8pm.

LAST CALL APPLES & PEARS

Local cider makers offer the perfect fall ferment

STORY AND PHOTO BY MARK C. ANDERSON

An operation like Pacific Grove CiderWorks is hard to find.

Think about it. Who else in the area, the state or the country crafts these types of ciders and perrys, let alone a pear port?

Unscientific research reveals only one other pear port maker in the country. U.S. Open Cider Championship Director Dow Scoggins has only heard of a couple. In fact, PGCW co-owners Tim Calvert and Christie Monson registered their own name for it, “Brandipera,” as a trademark with the U.S. patents office because they were traversing new territory.

Calvert spoke to the novelty of what they’re doing when PGCW debuted in autumn 2020.

“The cider industry has a long way to go, but it’s improving,” Calvert says. “There’s so little local cider and so many people who don’t know it yet.”

While elusive in the world of beverages, an outfit like Pacific Grove CiderWorks is also hard to find geographically. CiderWorks’ world headquarters—which houses a tasting room, French oak barrels, bottling gear and fermentation tanks—nestles into a slot in the Russell Service Center. The commercial park also is home to businesses like Cesar Upholstery, Dority Roofing and Peninsula Potters; when I first went looking for it, CiderWorks’ teal flag was obscured by a plumbing truck.

That blue-collar location, it turns out, proves appropriate. Like many of its neighbors, 1,500-square-foot PGCW is a handmade mom-andpop. Cidermaker Calvert, who comes to this after a three-decade career as a veterinarian, built pretty much the entire shop, from the four-stool tasting bar to the production area door.

He’s into ciders because, as a kid, he spent a lot of time at his family’s Placer County orchard amidst apple trees, cows and sheep. There, his great-great-grandpa started using a press to make hard juice in the 1860s. Calvert still has—and on occasion still uses—the very same press.

He started making his own hard cider in buckets with apples from the ranch. He even opened a cider tasting shop in Colfax that keyed him in to different styles and the saison yeast he swears by.

Calvert estimates they’ve spent $4 on their “marketing plan,” not including the sandwich board reading “Cider Tasting: Hard Cider and Pear Port” and the balloons they tie to it.

The location also fits because Asilomar’s foggy cool climate happens

to be ideal for producing and aging quality ciders.

“You want a cellar climate,” Calvert says, “and that’s what you have in PG.”

Finally, Pacific Grove feels storybook because it allows Calvert to collaborate with his high school sweetheart, Monson, a retired teacher, author and now co-owner and “head cider taster” for PGCW. They reunited in 2011 after 40 years apart.

“We look at possibilities and make decisions together,” she says. “I guess we appreciate each other so much and the different talents we have, and work together really well no matter what we’re doing.”

On a suitably foggy afternoon, they tour my big sister—part of the aforementioned population unfamiliar with cider—and I through their range of drinks. The $10 tastings involve a dry, mellow and light apple saison, an authentically pear-y perry, a sparkling pear cider and two vintages of Brandipera.

It’s a memorable lineup, highlighted by the low-ABV sparkling, with its hints of buttery biscuit, and the seductive 2016 Brandipera and its overlays of butterscotch. I can’t resist buying a bottle of the former ($19). My sister takes home a bottle of the 2016 pear port ($49), which won a gold medal at the 2020 U.S. Open Cider Championship.

During the tasting, I ask Calvert what his great-great-grandpa would think if he could see us sniffing and sipping. A smile peeks from behind a mustache curtain. “He’d be thrilled,” Calvert says.

Mark C. Anderson is a roving writer, explorer and photographer loosely based in Monterey County. Follow and/or reach him on Twitter and Instagram @ MontereyMCA.

Pacific Grove CiderWorks hosts tastings noon–5pm Saturday, noon–4pm Sundays and by appointment at 2050 Sunset Drive in Pacific Grove. More at pgciderworks.com.

Asilomar’s foggy cool climate happens to be ideal for producing and aging quality ciders.