Edible Monterey Bay: Fall 2018 | No. 29 by Edible Monterey Bay

Fall 2018 • Number 29

Celebrating the Local Food and Drink of Santa Cruz, Monterey and San Benito Counties

PRIME TIME FOR PG • CHEFS’ KIDS GENIUS AND JUSTICE • NIGHT HARVEST HARD CIDER • LAZY MILLENNIAL FARM Member of Edible Communities

Named for the number of minutes in a day, 1440 Multiversity is a new learning destination in the California redwoods between Santa Cruz and Silicon Valley. Enjoy cutting-edge weekend and 5-day programs in personal, professional, and spiritual growth alongside unforgettable moments of relaxation and renewal.

OCTOBER 19 – 21, 2018

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JANUARY 4 – 6, 2019

M I C H E L L E TA M & DIANA RODGERS

NOVEMBER 16 – 18, 2018

Paleo for the Holidays

Minimalism, Alignment, and Meaning

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JOSHUA BECKER

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THOMAS M. CAMPBELL & ERIN CAMPBELL The China Study in Practice: Go from Good to Great with Plant-Based Foods

Contents 4 6

GRIST FOR THE MILL EDIBLE NOTABLES

How once-sleepy Pacific Grove is becoming a hip dining destination; A young Salinas man works hard to prove vegan farming is the next big thing; Linking fishermen with customers is a passion for two longtime friends turned entrepreneurs

WHAT’S IN SEASON

TOMATILLOS

FOODSHED

FALL FARMERS’ MARKETS

HARD CIDER

DINE LOCAL GUIDE

LAST CALL

BEHIND THE BOTTLE

MONTEREY BAY

EDIBLE D.I.Y.

NIGHT HARVEST

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CHEFS’ KIDS

Quench your thirst for hard cider by making it at home

A photo essay by winemaker Alex Krause captures the pre-dawn beauty of the grape harvest

BACK OF THE HOUSE

Are they born with a discerning palate? Or are the children of local chefs just luckier than other kids?

A complete guide for the Monterey Bay area

GENIUS AND JUSTICE Organic agriculture and activism intersect at UCSC’s farm apprentice program

Discover an easy-to-love, easy-to-grow way to add flavor to your cooking

ON THE FARM

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NEPTUNE IN OPPOSITION

Try this spicy drink when the season gets a little spooky

RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE

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Miso-Marinated Sablefish Italian-Style Roasted Tomatillo Dressing Mateo’s Salsa Verde Roast Chicken Honey Balsamic Drizzle Meatballs for Maya and Duke Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts Hard Cider Neptune in Opposition

COVER PHOTOGRAPH

Beet, burrata and tomato salad at Poppy Hall in Pacific Grove by Margaux Gibbons CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPH

Strawberry field at UCSC Farm by Crystal Birns Please visit our website to find the Local Source Guide with profiles of all our wonderful advertisers.

Now Available!

Promise her anything, but send her to Madrigal

Certified Organic Ales in cans.

Swift Street Amber and Pacific IPA At your local retailer or visit Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing to get some.

Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing 402 Ingalls Street, Suite 27, Santa Cruz, CA 95060

831.425.4900 | www.scmbrew.com www.ediblemontereybay.com

GRIST FOR THE MILL

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MONTEREY BAY EDITOR AND PUBLISHER

As Edible Monterey Bay enters a new phase, it’s probably the right time to answer the question why. Why did I think a local food magazine was an important project to get involved with seven years ago? And why do I choose to continue now as EMB’s new editor and publisher? First, I love the Monterey Bay area and the way growing food is so fundamental to our local identity. I love how productive the entire region is—the year-round farms, the vineyards, the Pacific Ocean, the backyard gardens and all the fruit trees. It’s a place where the abundance of excellent-quality, clean, healthy ingredients is almost embarrassingly rich. And I love how all those ingredients inspire the region’s chefs, food artisans and small businesses—as well as us home cooks and gardeners. It has been so rewarding to bring you the stories of the creative people who make up the local food community, and it seems our list of stories to cover in the future grows longer every day. There are so many fascinating people to write about in this area, it sometimes feels we’ve barely begun to scratch the surface. Second, it’s no secret that journalism—particularly local news—is in trouble. As someone who started out covering Santa Cruz County for local TV news many years ago and has reported from all over the world, it is alarming to witness cutbacks in our media and dwindling coverage of the place we call home. Edible Monterey Bay fills that gap by providing a place where some of our region’s best journalists and finest photographers can put their remarkable talents to work, telling stories that, unfortunately, in many cases have been squeezed out of other media. And finally, the founders of Edible Monterey Bay, Sarah Wood and Rob Fisher, not only set high standards for journalistic excellence, they infused the magazine with a deep sense of social responsibility. They went beyond the basic premise of knowing your farmer and enjoying delicious farm-to-table cuisine to tackle vital food-related issues in every edition. Topics like the scarcity of water, climate change, sustainability, farm labor and the tough life of immigrant cooks in local restaurant kitchens are familiar to readers of EMB thanks to the efforts of Sarah and Rob and their tremendous capacity for empathy and compassion. Continuing to report on those impactful issues is important to me, and that’s what EMB will continue to offer—along with heaping helpings of fun stories and mouth-watering food! As we begin our eighth year, we are so grateful to our supporters: the community of advertisers that makes publication of Edible Monterey Bay possible, and to you, our dear readers, for cheering us along the way on this journey. It’s an honor and a pleasure to have the chance to lead this endeavor. Enjoy our fall issue!

Deborah Luhrman Publisher

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Deborah Luhrman deborah@ediblemontereybay.com 831.600.8281 EDITOR-AT-LARGE Sarah Wood FOUNDERS Sarah Wood and Rob Fisher COPY EDITOR Doresa Banning LAYOUT & DESIGN Matthew Freeman and

Tina Bossy-Freeman EDITORIAL ASSISTANT AND EVENTS MANAGER Rosie Parker AD DESIGNERS Bigfish Smallpond Design • Jane Bolling Design • Zephyr Pfotenhauer • Melissa Thoeny Designs CONTRIBUTORS

Laura Altamirano • Crystal Birns • Julie Cahill • Jamie Collins • Ellen Farmer • Rob Fisher Maria Gaura • Margaux Gibbons • Ellie Hamner • Alex Krause • Geneva Liimatta Alex Luhrman • Kathryn McKenzie • Laura Ness • Rosie Parker • Ken Payton • Zephyr Pfotenhauer • Jesse Scott • Patrick Tregenza Amber Turpin ADVERTISING SALES

ads@ediblemontereybay.com • 831.238.1217 Shelby Lambert shelby@ediblemontereybay.com Kate Robbins kate@ediblemontereybay.com Sarah Wood sarah@ediblemontereybay.com DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

Mick Freeman • 831.419.2975 CONTACT US:

Edible Monterey Bay P.O. Box 228 Carmel Valley, CA 93924 www.ediblemontereybay.com 831.600.8281 info@ediblemontereybay.com Edible Monterey Bay is published quarterly. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. Subscriptions are $28 per year at www.ediblemontereybay.com. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and notify us. We also welcome letters to the above address. Thank you.

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EDIBLE NOTABLES

PRIME TIME FOR PG How once-sleepy Pacific Grove is becoming a hip dining destination BY LAURA NESS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARGAUX GIBBONS AND GENEVA LIIMATTA Pacific Grove is known for many things, not the least of which is its designation as Butterfly Town USA and the place where John Denver touched down one last time. A whopping 75% of the homes are considered historical, the most of any town in California, except for Bodie—a ghost town in the Eastern Sierra. It also prohibits fast food establishments. Founded as a Methodist retreat, PG remained a dry town long after Prohibition, until 1969, with nary a saloon, dive bar or wine room within its sacred bounds. No wonder Cannery Row was such a popular watering hole for those who chose to commiserate with their friends Jack, Johnny, Jim and Hiram. But times have changed. Pacific Grove is no longer dry, nor wanting for terrific dining choices. Just in the last few months, Monarch Pub, the first British-style bar ever to arrive in the town, opened its doors, serving solid pub food—the fish and chips gets raves—and beer.

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Wild Fish and Poppy Hall also came to town this year, featuring truly creative, original cuisine. They join long-time favorites like Fandango, il vecchio, Passionfish, Red House, Peppers, Victorian Corner and Petra, which have long been attracting locals and visitors alike, many for more than 30 years. “People have owned these places for decades. I’m now meeting with their kids and grandkids,” says Moe Ammar, president of the Pacific Grove Chamber of Commerce for the past 26 years. In the last several years, Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar, Crema and Happy Girl Kitchen have added to the underpinnings of a destination food scene. And let’s not forget Bistro Roux (formerly Fifi’s), undergoing a complete remake by owners Fabrice and Jennifer Roux. It’s safe to say the town is reaching critical mass on its way to becoming a true dining destination.

Wild Fish owners Kelvin and Liz Jacobs (left) on their sidewalk terrace and (below) Carissa Fritts, Brendan Esons and Phillip Wojtowicz of Poppy Hall

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Thamin Saleh of Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar (upper left) and Cindy and Ted Walter of Passionfish (left)

“This is the busiest I’ve been in 26 years,” says Ammar, a Pacific Grove resident. “There hasn’t been this much development since I’ve lived here. We have the Hotel Durrell coming downtown with 120 rooms, a restaurant and banquet facilities, expected by 2021 and a new 200-room hotel at the American Tin Cannery in the planning stages.” Just like in Carmel and Monterey, no additional hotels can be built in Pacific Grove unless approved by voters. Of the new dining establishments, Ammar

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says, “There has been an exceptional reception for new places. The Monarch Pub has great pub food. Poppy Hall is very creative—I love the $1 oysters on Monday nights. And Jeninni has a great happy hour.” Ammar notes that pubs were not allowed in Pacific Grove until 2016. “We worked so hard to get the Monarch Pub. There are now three people trying to open new brewpubs.” Is business picking up? Jordan Champagne—who, with her husband Todd, opened

FALL 2018

Happy Girl Kitchen in Pacific Grove in 2010—certainly thinks so. “We’ve had a big response to our appearing in Big Little Lies,” she says. “I think Pacific Grove is experiencing a renaissance. Yet, there are always people who don’t want change. I think we can all be part of thoughtful change.” Thamin Saleh of Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar, formerly the sommelier at Bernardus Lodge and Highlands Inn, among others, thinks Pacific Grove has attractive assets that set it apart from other nearby tourist destinations: “It has art, architecture and charm.” But there is always room for improvement. “The town still needs fixing up. Like this old gas station next door, it needs to go,” he says. And go it will, if the proposed 522 Lighthouse Ave. redevelopment project, set to add 10 new residences and shops, comes to fruition. Saleh knows locals are cost conscious, as he is himself. “I couldn’t afford this business in Carmel,” he admits. He purposely keeps his eclectic wine selection, which includes many half bottles, affordable. “I want people to enjoy a horizontal

Passionfish photo by Geneva Liimatta and others by Margaux Gibbons.

“A big positive change is for locals to want to visit PG for food. This wasn’t always the case, so that is a fabulous improvement.”

experience, moving from sparkling to white to red, rather than a vertical of just one big bottle,” he says. “Locals are still finding us for the first time after four years.” Saleh especially welcomes the new luxury residences going in above him in the Holman Building. “I’ll provide room service,” he jokes. According to chef Tamie Aceves—owner of Crema, a hip, happy place on Lighthouse with Verve coffee, bottomless mimosas and allday brunch—business was pretty rough when it started in 2012. “So many closed spaces and lots of thrift stores,” she says. But the influx of new eateries has definitely made an impact. “A big positive change is for locals to want to visit PG for food. This wasn’t always the case, so that is a fabulous improvement. We want locals and out-of-town guests to know we are a happening spot for great food. Stay here. Play here. Eat here.” She notes that Crema has become so busy, she had to add a separate commercial kitchen in Pacific Grove for her catering company, La Crème. With boundless energy, she hints at a new fast casual restaurant coming near Asilomar Beach, too. Co-owner Liz Jacobs of the newly opened Wild Fish—a sister to the acclaimed Wild Fish restaurant in Mendocino County’s Little River—realizes that Pacific Grove is not quite yet the dining destination it could be, but notes there are many newcomers arriving on the

scene. She points to Poppy Hall, which she describes as the perfect neighborhood restaurant, and to Jeninni, which she loves for the wines and the atmosphere. She also mentions a piano bar going into the lobby of the Holman Building, along with a great new organic café. “I feel really positive about all the buzz,” she says. Poppy Hall, founded by Big Sur Bakery and restaurant chef, Philip Wojtowicz, and Big Sur Roadhouse chef Brendan Esons, is quickly becoming known for its rustic California-meets-Mediterranean cuisine. Well-priced food as well as wines and beers, plus $17.77 corkage, guarantee diners will return. Coppertopped tables and subtle poppy murals on the walls are part of the clean and modern, yet warm, design created by local architects de sola.barnes. Both chefs are now happy PG residents. “This is such a different experience from Big Sur,” admits Wojtowicz. “I feel so honored by the reception. I’m working a lot with the front of the house, which is new for me, and I love it. Most people say they walked here from home. Some have returned seven or eight times already. The Monday night oyster special is like a big happy party. We had 58 people last Monday, and went through 264 oysters!” He hopes to add brunch, and perhaps lunch in the coming months. “Just like we did with Big Sur Bakery: start small and keep adding.” Ted and Cindy Walter of Passionfish look back on their 20 years in Pacific Grove, noting

it took a “slow three years” for people to get excited about what they were doing. Not only is Passionfish one of the most highly regarded restaurants on the Monterey Peninsula, it also spearheaded the local, sustainable cooking movement and developed an award-winning wine program with prices close to retail. Says Cindy, “Our first decade of success was without competition, it seemed. We just got better and busier each year with really no new restaurants to challenge our originality and creativity. Now, multiple hot new and well-done restaurants are opening every year.” She loves the idea of a piano bar: “We have the right demographics for that to work. Otherwise, you would have to go to Carmel.” Asked if she thinks more brewpubs and bars are inevitable, Crema’s Aceves says, “I hope so. The beautiful thing about visiting Pacific Grove is that you can walk everywhere. We have one of the most gorgeous ocean walking paths in the world. Add in golf, ocean activities, great B&Bs, hopefully a new hotel, the aquarium and being able to grab a pint or a cocktail then walk back to your spot, it is a pretty ideal mix.” Laura Ness is a longtime wine journalist, columnist and judge who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay, Spirited, WineOh.TV, Los Gatos Magazine and Wine Industry Network. Her passion is telling stories about the intriguing characters who inhabit the fascinating world of wine and food.

MADE

FROM

SCRATCH

The Penny Ice Creamery

(831) 204-2523

thepenyicecreamery.com www.ediblemontereybay.com

EDIBLE NOTABLES

LAZY MILLENNIAL FARMS A young Salinas man works hard to prove vegan farming is the next big thing BY KATHRYN MCKENZIE PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK TREGENZA When Leo Sanchez first heard about growing produce “veganically,” without the use of any animal-derived fertilizers at all, he was skeptical. “I actually thought it was silly and not going to work out,” he says. After all, the Salinas native had long been coached in traditional organic farming methods, which call for using chicken manure, fish emulsion, bone meal or other animal-based fertilizers. Sanchez—now the owner of Lazy Millennial Farms—has discovered that veganic practices work very well in commercial organic agriculture—and his methods, learned through research, trial and error, and experimentation, may very well be the next big thing, as well as a

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FALL 2018

more ethical and sustainable way to farm. What he’s doing on two acres south of Salinas has already attracted the attention of Popular Science magazine, as well as local restaurants, farmers’ market shoppers and the Forbes AgTech Summit, which asked him to speak at the event last June. On a recent bright and breezy day, Sanchez was out in the field inspecting young onions, Asian greens, purple turnips and celery, among other crops he’s growing. The name of his company is ironic, considering the bespectacled 26-year-old devotes most of his waking hours to working on the farm.

The name of his company is ironic, considering the bespectacled 26-year-old devotes most of his waking hours to working on the farm. His fertilization method employs fermented grains and plant matter, enhanced by minimal tilling methods that suit his crops and don’t disturb the beneficial micro-organisms at work in the lower layers of soil, something that he believes contributes to higher yields and concentrates nutrients in his vegetables. This method also helps consolidate carbon dioxide in the soil, and minimal cultivation reduces the use of fossil fuels. Sanchez uses an old-timey, hand-operated apparatus called a wheel hoe for cultivation and a propane-powered flame weeder that kills weeds with fire rather than pesticides. But in accordance with veganic practices, he doesn’t kill gophers, usually the nemesis of row-crop farmers. Sanchez’s method is to live

and let live. “You’re really in their house,” he says. “When gophers eat something, it’s like paying the rent.” And, he points out, gophers aren’t all bad—they do an outstanding job of soil aeration as they tunnel through the earth. Farming both organically and veganically can save the earth, Sanchez believes. That’s a lofty aspiration to lob out there, but he is convinced that this is the way of the future. “One of my biggest goals, my life goal, is to find a way to benefit humanity in a positive manner,” he says. “I wanted to find something that would let us symbiotically live cohesively together, to really enhance and benefit the land with the tools that we have.” Eating less meat and switching to veganic farming can also help

With heart on hand, farmer Leo Sanchez shows his love for farmers’ markets

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slow climate change, he says, citing information from the Environmental Working Group, which estimates that about half of all manmade greenhouse gas emissions come from livestock. For every pound of beef produced, 13 pounds of carbon dioxide are introduced into the environment, according to EWG figures, while a pound of potatoes, at the top of the list of vegetables, creates only 1.3 pounds of CO2 as a byproduct. Lazy Millennial Farms is not just CCOF certified, but also certified by Stockfree Organic, a worldwide community of commercial growers encouraging plant-based agriculture—and considered the highest standard for veganic farms. It’s one of only two veganic farms in California. Sanchez’s path to veganics didn’t happen overnight—in fact, it was a winding and torturous path that eventually led him to where he is today. It all began a few years ago, strangely enough, with a knee injury from BMX biking. While Sanchez was restlessly recuperating, his grandfather came from Mexico for an extended stay. They grew tomatoes in the backyard, and “something just clicked in me,” says Sanchez. “I fell in love with it.” He enrolled at Hartnell College, but ended up flunking all his ag classes. “I thought, maybe this isn’t for me,” says Sanchez, but when his beloved grandfather died, it galvanized him. He returned to college and started making the Dean’s List, crediting Hartnell ag instructor Dr. Steven Triano for encouraging him every step of the way. Then he enrolled in ALBA, the nonprofit organic farming incubator, and also snagged an internship with Phil Foster’s Pinnacle Organic farm in San Benito County.

“It was one of the best experiences I’ve ever had,” says Sanchez, who did everything from transplanting to harvesting, packing to early morning deliveries. “I had to understand what farmworkers are going through and I’ve never been so sore in my entire life.” At ALBA, he joined forces with Matt Loisel, who founded the farm and came up with the attention-grabbing name Lazy Millennial. Loisel introduced Sanchez to the idea of veganic farming; however, their partnership ended late last year, and Sanchez took over the business and its ALBA acreage. Less than a year later, Sanchez has made huge strides. Lazy Millennial currently has 15 CSA customers and is selling weekly at the Kensington Farmers’ Market near Berkeley. In addition, he’s growing produce for Vegetarian House, a vegan restaurant in San Jose. The workload falls squarely on Sanchez’s shoulders, with a little part-time help from family and friends. But he also plans to spread the veganic gospel in any way he can and hopes to collaborate on an online workshop to teach veganics with Triano, his former professor. “I’m really stoked on what I’m doing,” says Sanchez. “This has really brought out a fire in me. It’s not easy. It’s a lot of work…I’m not doing this because it’s a niche, I really believe in this.” Kathryn McKenzie, who grew up in Santa Cruz and now lives on a Christmas tree farm in north Monterey County, writes about sustainable living, home design and health for numerous publications and websites. Lazy Millennial Farms 1700 Old Stage Road, Salinas www.lazymillennialfarms.com

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No. 27 Spring 2013

Austin

Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season

Number 31 Summer 2016

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foraging in the Valley

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Celebrating the food culture of Central Virginia

Barboursville’s wondrous garden

easy, seasonal recipes

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Celebrating local, fresh foods in Dallas, Fort Worth and North Texas—Season by Season

No. 23 Fall 2014

TELLING THE STORY OF HOW THE LOWCOUNTRY EATS & DRINKS

CAPITAL DISTRICT

Issue No. 15

Celebrating Local Foods, Season by Season

Fall 2013

Eat. Drink. Read. Think.

Petal Pusher

Fall Comfort Food

Raise the Roof

Southern Born and Bred

Support Local Community, Food & Drink

OBERLIN • GRANARIES OF MEMORY • INTEGRATION ACRES • STONEFIELD NATURALS SCHMALTZ • THE APPLE • WILLOW BASKETS • OHIO’S HISTORIC BARNS

Cheers, Honey!

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THE FRUITS OF THE FALL HARVEST

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NO.1 SPRING 2018

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No. 12 2015

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green mountains celebrating vermont’s local food culture through the seasons

N O. 37 • S P R I N G 2018

HUDSON VA L L E Y

Celebrating the Bounty of the Hudson Valley

denver • boulder • ft.collins EAT. DRINK. THINK. LOCAL.

The Liquid Assets Issue

THE LIQUID ASSETS ISSUE

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NEVERSINK SPIRITS • SYLVIA WOODSTOCK FISHING THE ESOPUS • CUKES & SQUASH • LOCAL GINGER

No. 12

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MARIN & Summer 2017 WINE COUNTRY

Celebrating the harvest of Marin, Napa and Sonoma counties, season by season

EDIBLE FLOW ERS • OYSTERS • FA R MERS M A R K ETS

Local Scoop Shops Sonoma County’s Brand Power Wild Huckleberries No. 1 | SPRING 2018

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Explore a world of local food through the magazines and websites of Edible Communities. We’ll introduce you to the chefs, farmers, brewers, home cooks and others who inspire and sustain local flavors across the US and Canada. Learn more at ediblecommunities.com

Issue #33 | Summer 2017

Celebrating the Local Food Community of Fairfield, Litchfield, and New Haven Counties

MARKET DAY AT BARBERRY HILL FARM • YUMI ECO SOLUTIONS SUMMER RECIPES • HOW CONNECTICUT RAISED THE MODERN CHICKEN

N O. 18 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 017

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A LOCAVORE THANKSGIVING HOTEL DINING: AN INSIDER’S GUIDE

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THE WEIRD AND WONDERFUL ISSUE faux cheese ∙ food on the fringe ∙ the odd bits NATIONAL CAPITAL REGION • KINGSTON • PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY • EASTERN ONTARIO

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CELEBRATING THE ABUNDANCE OF LOCAL FOOD IN AMERICA’S FARM-TO-FORK CAPITAL

Celebrating the Bounty of Rhode Island, Season by Season

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Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 42 • July-August 2017

THE WORLD’S NEWEST VEGETABLE

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LUCKY DOG RANCH

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COOKS CSA Cooking with Chef Felmley Farmer Sandra Broussard Cooks Fresh Fisherman Dan Major and Local Box Crab Young Baker Gets Creative with Cupcakes Exploring Imperial Beach

FRESH START MARCH / APRIL 2017

ISSUE 21 • SPRING 2014

Santa Barbara Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

YEAR

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N O. 39 JA N UA RY/ F E B R UA RY 2 018

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HARVEST 2014

Canada hasn’t always nailed immigration policy.

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But our dumpling policy, apparent in the variety of dough-bundled treats found in the GTA, is a slam dunk!

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GREATER TORONTO • THE GOLDEN HORSESHOE • NIAGARA • PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY • SOUTHWESTERN ONTARIO

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No. 24, Harvest 2014 A MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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Our Food, Our Stories, Our Community

Member of Edible Communities

JEFF GORDINIER’S WESTCHESTER • NEVERSINK SPIRITS MOREL FORAGING • FISHING THE ESOPUS • LOCAL GINGER MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

#loyaltolocal 13

www.ediblemontereybay.com

EDIBLE NOTABLES

OCEAN2TABLE Linking fishermen with customers is a passion for two longtime friends turned entrepreneurs BY ROSIE PARKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEN PAYTON Food should not have to get on an airplane before reaching your dinner plate, according to Ian Cole and Charlie Lambert, founders of Ocean2Table, a Community Supported Fishery (CSF) based in Santa Cruz. Especially if it’s seafood. And especially if you live around the Monterey Bay. “Seafood fraud is a major and widespread problem,” Cole laments. “The industry has some of the most falsified supply chains, and consumers are being lied to about everything from when it was caught to where it was caught to what species they’re actually purchasing. We wanted to create a CSF to combat that corruption, while also educating and connecting with our community.” Before starting Ocean2 Table in 2014, Cole and Lambert, UCSC Environmental Studies graduates with a friendship rooted in fishing and surfing, worked in fishery management. Cole, 33, was as an observer with the West Coast Groundfish Observer Program run by the National Marine Fisheries Service. Lambert, 30, worked for the California Department of Fish and Wildlife as a field biologist, studying the effects of recreational fishing on certain fisheries. It was in these positions that many of their relationships with local fishermen began. “There’s so much trust that goes into sourcing,” Lambert says. “That’s why we morally feel the need to connect with every part of the supply chain in our business. We’re the ones offloading from fleets we’ve known for years in the Santa Cruz Harbor, or going out on our boat and personally catching fish, hook and line. We believe that we can build trust with our community through transparency and information.” Information comes in the form of an incredibly comprehensive website, which includes sustainability notes on the various species they deliver and in-depth bios on the people and

methods behind all the boats they source from, and from their emailed Fish Alerts with all the pertinent details (and then some) of their fresh-off-the-boat offerings. The Fish Alerts, which you can subscribe to through their website, are where you learn what fish is coming in when. Ocean2Table—a partner of the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program—is the most recent of three CSFs in our area. H&H Fresh Fish and Real Good Fish were started in 2003 and 2012, respectively. When asked about competition, Cole says the market for sustainably sourced seafood is nowhere near saturation and sweetly notes that “the rising tide floats all ships.” What is different about Ocean2Table is that although subscription packages are offered at a discounted rate, the majority of its business is one-time individual orders. This means that the Fish Alerts simply give you the option to connect to an online market where you can purchase a half share ($15, feeds 1–2 people) or a full share ($25, feeds 3–4 people) of what you’d like, with no commitment to make further purchases. Furthermore, the deliveries are not on a fixed schedule, but are instead based on when the boats come in, with the promise of delivering within a day of when the catch is unloaded. The online marketplace also ensures that people aren’t purchasing more than is sustainably possible. “Once we’re sold out,” Lambert explains, “we’re sold out. It helps to remind our customers that this is a finite resource.” “We’re also really working on more equitable access,” Cole notes. “Seafood is expensive, but there are a lot of more affordable species out there that are healthy and sustainable. That’s why our Fish Alerts aim to expose the consumer to many different species and their benefits.”

“Seafood is expensive, but there are a lot of more affordable species out there that are healthy and sustainable. That’s why our Fish Alerts aim to expose the consumer to many different species and their benefits.”

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www.ediblemontereybay.com www.ediblemontereybay.com

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Charlie Lambert and Ian Cole out for a day of fishing on Monterey Bay and on pg. 15 showing off a just-caught lingcod

As an admittedly uneducated consumer, I’ve personally come to enjoy the Fish Alerts for their educational purposes alone—absorbing background and cooking methods on various species and tracking what’s most in season. I used the service for the first time this past summer while researching this article. It was midweek and I had just left the Food Lounge commercial kitchen where Cole, Lambert and their team process and package. Lingcod, halibut and sablefish had come in that morning and were all on offer for next day pickup and delivery. I ordered a full share of sablefish, a species I had always loved but had never cooked myself. My Fish Alert informed me that my fish had been brought into the Moss Landing port from the Sea Harvest and the catch method was bottom set line. By going to the Ocean2Table website I could further learn that the Sea Harvest is a fleet of several boats captained by the multi-generational Deyerle family, which uses traps and longline and tends to get very little bycatch when targeting sablefish, resulting in very little environmental disturbance. I learned that Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program gives it a rating of Best Choice and that my fillets would come skinned with some small pin bones and would weigh about 1.3 pounds. I picked up my share the following day from a location right near my home in Santa Cruz. Santa Cruz County has 18 pickup locations, many of which are the homes of long-time customers looking to support the business, and there is the option of home delivery for an additional $5. Ocean2Table also delivers throughout Santa Clara and San Mateo counties. With this beautiful, buttery black cod now in my possession, I felt paralyzed as to how to properly prepare it. So I called chef Amanda Heyse, of Burn Hot Sauce, for some guidance. With unbridled enthusiasm, she demanded I bring the fish over immediately for an impromptu, late-night fish fry. While friends enjoyed a summer evening out on the front porch, Heyse and I whipped up a tempura batter, a giant herb salad, and a zesty aioli. Avocados and the sablefish were sliced and ready for a light and crispy coating.

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We ate outside, packing the fish and avocados and other fixings into grilled tortillas. The fish retained its rich flavor and flaky, delicate texture—the tempura batter adding a salty and satisfying crunch. There were five of us, all fully sated (even the three dogs were able to feast on a fallen piece). I relayed all the information I knew about our fresh catch, exclaiming, “Guys! This was just caught yesterday!” “Wow, really?” came a reply of genuine awe. “That’s amazing. I mean, what’s better than that?” Rosie Parker, a native New Englander, likes to complain of missing home while living the Santa Cruz high life—surfing, hiking, writing and working for a delicious craft brewery. Ocean2Table www.getocean2table.com

Photo by Ellie Hamner

IAN’S FAMOUS MISO-MARINATED SABLEFISH Courtesy Ian Cole, co-owner, Ocean2Table in Santa Cruz Serves 3 to 4 ¼ cup red or white miso paste ¼ cup sake 2 tablespoons mirin 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/8 cup sugar 4 black cod fillets, 5 to 6 ounces each (typically one full share) Whisk together miso, sake, mirin, soy sauce, oil and sugar. Rub mixture over every surface of black fillets. Transfer to a plastic zipper-lock bag or sealable container. Proceed immediately to the next step, or for best results, marinate for about 30 minutes or up to two days. Adjust broiler rack to 4 inches from heat source and preheat broiler or toaster oven broiler to high. Cover a small broiler pan with aluminum foil. Place black cod fillets skin side down on the pan. Broil until top surface is well charred and a thin skewer inserted into black cod shows no resistance at all when piercing through layers of flesh, about 10 minutes. If any areas of fish threaten to burn, shield with small pieces of aluminum foil. Alternatively, cook on medium-high heat in a nonstick pan. When fish is cooked, carefully remove pin bones with a pair of tweezers or delicately with fingertips (there should be no resistance if cooked through), and serve immediately.

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WHAT'S IN SEASON

TOMATILLOS

Discover an easy-to-love, easy-to-grow way to add flavor to your cooking BY JAMIE COLLINS PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK TREGENZA AND CRYSTAL BIRNS

Photo by Patrick Tregenza www.ediblemontereybay.com www.ediblemontereybay.com

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Tomatillos, a sour fruit encapsulated by a thin, papery husk, can bring bright and tangy flavor to almost any dish, while packing a punch that no other fruit can quite replicate. With minimal effort, delectable tomatillos can be much more than salsa verde—they can be sliced thinly and eaten raw on toast with some soft sheep cheese and a drizzle of olive oil, braised alongside a chicken, made into a green curry with coconut milk, sautéed with onions as a side dish, blackened in the oven and made into a tapenade with some olives or blended into a tasty salad dressing. Originating in Mexico, where it is also known as “miltomate” or husk tomato, the tomatillo is a member of the nightshade family that includes tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, potatoes and even tobacco. Both the Mayans and the Aztecs utilized wild tomatillos as a staple in their diet, but it was the Aztecs who saved seeds and domesticated the plant. Lucky for us, they grow great here on the Central Coast. And with minimal effort and some basic know-how, they can be a part of your seasonal repertoire. I’ve noticed that it is a rare person who buys tomatillos at the farmers’ market; therefore, many local farmers are not growing them anymore. As cooking becomes a niche hobby for people, the demand and the likelihood of finding them will continue to dwindle. Pinnacle Organic farm still grows and sells them at the farmers’ markets and at its farm stand in San Juan Bautista. And the UCSC Farm offers tasty tomatillos at its weekly market cart at the campus entrance. It’s time to celebrate the tomatillo and try your hand at some homemade salsa verde or give La Posta chef Katherine Stern’s salad dressing a try, if only so that farmers will continue to grow them! My favorite way to utilize the bright, lemony tasting tomatillos is to make a tapenade consisting of roasted tomatillos, diced cured green and black olives, fresh herbs like parsley, mint, bronze fennel, or basil, fresh or roasted garlic, fresh or dried mild chile peppers, olive oil and salt and pepper. Chunky and delicious, this green tapenade upgrades a sandwich or anything that needs a boost of flavor. Just don’t think you can swap green tomatoes for tomatillo or you will be disap-

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pointed. Tomatillos are tarter, with a lemoncitrus flavor, and have much less juice, resulting in a thick, rich sauce unlike a tomato.

CHOOSING AND STORING TOMATILLOS Smaller tomatillos are sweeter than large ones. Choose ones that have a fresh-looking husk that is not dried or shriveled, and be sure that the fruit is firm with no soft spots. If you aren’t going to use them right away, store them in the refrigerator with their husks intact, where they will keep for several weeks. Tomatillos freeze well once roasted; this is another way to save the fall harvest for winter stews, chili, soups and more. There is no need to peel or remove seeds—simply remove husks, wash the sticky residue off the skin and roast in the oven at 450° F until the skin is charred, about 20 minutes. Once cooled, store roasted tomatillos flat in freezer bags.

GROWING Not only are tomatillos tasty, they also are a great addition to the garden and not as fickle as other plants in the nightshade family. While they prefer warm temperatures, they also thrive in coastal areas, unlike tomatoes and eggplants. Tomatillos are drought resistant and require very little water after they are established. Tomatillos come in green and purple; some purple heirloom varieties are known for being sweeter and are more likely to be eaten raw. De Milpa is a desirable variety of heirloom purple tomatillo; however, it will only turn purple when the fruit gets so fat that it splits the husk and allows the sun to hit that part of the fruit. For good pollination and fruit set, plant at least two seedlings 2–3 feet apart in welldrained soil with a top dressing of compost. Use tomato cages or a trellis system to keep the tomatillos growing upright—this makes harvesting easier and prevents fungal diseases. Because tomatillos are sour and wrapped in a husk, there are no pests or animals that bother the fruit. Flea beetles often dine on the leaves, but it doesn’t affect the tomatillo inside.

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In just two months fruit will begin to be ready to harvest. You will know a tomatillo is perfect when it has completely filled out the husk and just begins to burst out. If you want a less tart, sweeter tomatillo, wait until the husks fully open and the fruit turns yellow. Continuing to pick tomatillos when they are ripe will encourage more fruit and higher yields—well cared for plants can produce up to 15 pounds. Tomatillos are very prolific; if you leave a few to drop on the ground, they will reseed year after year as if you planted them!

HEALTH BENEFITS One medium tomatillo contains 91 milligrams of potassium. If you ate a small bowl of salsa verde, it would have more than a banana. Potassium is an important electrolyte that helps keep nerves and muscles communicating and works with the salts in your body to help keep blood pressure from getting too high. Tomatillos also contain significant amounts of vitamin C and phytochemical compounds that are antibacterial and potentially cancer fighting. Traditional healers in India touted tomatillos as beneficial for arthritis, and joint and muscle conditions because they fight inflammation in the body. Native American tribes ate wild tomatillos and used them to treat many ailments; charred tomatillo seeds have been excavated in archeological digs. Kansas University, in collaboration with the Native Medicinal Plant Research Program, conducted a study of native wild tomatillos, a common weed in the Great Plains, and their effect on mice with aggressive cancers. It was found that wild tomatillos contain several compounds called withanolides, which show promising anticancer properties for thyroid, breast, head, neck and brain tumors as well as leukemia, without harmful toxicities or side effects. There is hope that these properties can eventually help humans. All the more reason to eat tomatillos! Jamie Collins is the owner of Serendipity Farms, which you can find at all of the Santa Cruz Community Farmers’ Markets (downtown, Westside, Live Oak, Felton and Scotts Valley) and at the Pacific Grove farmers’ market on Mondays.

You will know a tomatillo is perfect when it has completely filled out the husk and just begins to burst out

Photo by Crystal Birns

www.ediblemontereybay.com

ITALIAN-STYLE ROASTED TOMATILLO DRESSING Courtesy Katherine Stern, chef, La Posta in Santa Cruz

We often associate tomatillos with Mexican cuisine, but chef Katherine Stern serves this Italian-style dressing with a fresh tomato salad, spooned over pan-roasted fish or with grilled vegetables. Â˝ pound tomatillos 1 small yellow onion 2 cloves garlic, peeled Handful, fresh basil leaves 1 bay leaf 1 cup olive oil Salt and pepper Heat your oven to the hottest temperature. (La Posta does this in its pizza oven.) Remove the tomatillos from their husks. Thinly slice the onion and garlic. Put the vegetables in a baking dish big enough to hold everything without being too crowded. Toss with a tablespoon of olive oil, the bay leaf and a pinch of salt. Roast the veggies, turning them halfway through, until they are soft and starting to char a bit, about 20 minutes. Remove from oven and toss the basil leaves through so they will wilt. Cool. Once cool, remove the bay leaf and place everything in a blender. While blender is running, slowly add in the oil, emulsifying the dressing. When all the oil has been added, taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Makes 2 cups

Photo by Alex Luhrman

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LOCAL FOODS IN SEASON SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER & NOVEMBER FRUITS Apples • Asian Pears • Avocados • Blackberries** • Cactus Pears • Dates • Feijoas**** • Figs • Guavas**** • Kiwis** • Kumquats • Lemons • Limes*** • Mandarins**** • Melon** • Nectarines** • Oranges • Peaches* • Pears • Persimmons** • Plums • Pluots • Pomegranates • Pomelos**** • Quince** • Raspberries • Strawberries

Vegetables Beans • Beets • Bok Choy* • Broccoli • Brussels Sprouts* • Burdock • Cabbages • Carrots • Cauliflowers • Celeriac • Celery • Chard • Collards • Corn • Cress • Cucumbers • Dandelions • Eggplants • Endive • Fennel • Garlic • Herbs • Horseradish • Kale • Leeks • Lettuces • Mustard Greens • Okra • Olives • Onions • Orach • Parsnips • Peas • Pea Shoots • Peppers • Potatoes • Radishes • Rhubarb • Rutabagas*** • Salsify • Scallions • Shallots • Spinach • Sprouts • Squash, Summer and Winter • Sunchokes • Sweet Potatoes • Tomatillos • Tomatoes • Turnips

Nuts Almonds • Hazelnuts • Pecans • Pistachios • Walnuts

Seafood Abalone • Halibut, Calif. • Lingcod • Rock Cod/Rockfish • Sablefish, aka Black Cod • Sanddabs • Sole Sea Bass, White • Spot Prawns • Squid, Market • Tuna, Albacore * September only ** Only through October ***October and beyond ****November only Notes: Fish species listed are all harvested by local commercial fishermen and rated “good alternatives” or “best choices” for sustainability by the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program. Research assistance by Real Good Fish and Serendipity Farms.

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Sip and Celebrate, Responsibly. Sample a Monterey County wine and you can almost taste the clean air, rich soil and loving care that goes into making each barrel. Take the memories home with you – and a few bottles, too – and protect the natural beauty for generations to come.

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monterey bay fall

Saturday

Tuesday

Aptos Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market 8AM–Noon · Year-round 6500 Soquel Drive · 831.728.5060 www.montereybayfarmers.org

Felton Farmers’ Market 2:30–6:30PM ∙ May 1 through October 30 120 Russell Ave. ∙ 831.454.0566 www.santacruzfarmersmarkets.org

Westside Santa Cruz Market 9AM–1PM · Year-round 2801 Mission St. · 831.454.0566 www.santacruzfarmersmarket.org

Wednesday

Scotts Valley Farmers‘ Market 9AM-1PM · April 1 through November 18 Scotts Valley Community Center Kings Village Road · 831.454.0566 www.santacruzfarmersmarket.org

Downtown Santa Cruz Farmers’ Market 1–6PM · Year-round Lincoln and Cedar · 831.454.0566 www.santacruzfarmersmarket.org Friday Watsonville Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market 2–7PM · Year-round Peck and Main streets · 831.588.7366 watsonvillecfmarket@gmail.com UCSC Farm & Garden‘s Market Cart Noon–6PM ∙ June through October

1156 High St. at Bay Street ∙ 831.459.3240

www.casfs.ucsc.edu

Sunday Live Oak/Eastside Farmers’ Market 9AM–1PM · Year-round 21511 E. Cliff Drive ∙ 831.454.0566 www.santacruzfarmersmarket.org Fairgrounds Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market 9AM–4PM ∙ Year-round 2601 E. Lake Ave. ∙ 831.235.1856 Seascape Farmers’ Market 11AM-2PM ∙ May through October Courtyard outside #16B Seascape Village Aptos ∙ 831.685.3134 Corralitos Farm & Garden Market 11AM–3PM ∙ Year-round 127 Hames Road ∙ 831.724.1332 wayne@catalyst2001.com

towards corralitos

Love your local farmers’ markets! Here in the Monterey Bay area, we often kick off our fall season with scorching, dry heat. The autumn equinox can come and go while it still feels like summer, and often even hotter than the summer months. Luckily for us, we still have the opportunity to cool off with juicy cold melons, sweet berries and candy ripe tomatoes. There is no hurry to let them go as we welcome the next wave of produce to the market. There will be plenty of time to roast squash, bake apple pies and split open ﬁgs come sweater season. —Amber Turpin

www.ediblemontereybay.com

towards santa cruz

monterey bay fall monterey & san benito counties

Paciﬁc Grove Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market

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Monday

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tear out & keep

towards hollister

castroville

3–7PM ∙ Year-round Central and Grand avenues 831.384.6961 ∙ www.everyonesharvest.org y1 Hw

Tuesday

Old Monterey Marketplace Farmers’ Market 4–7PM ∙ Year-round Alvarado Street at Del Monte and Pearl 831.655.2607 ∙ www.oldmonterey.org

marina

Carmel Barnyard Certiﬁed Farmers‘ Market

11AM–4PM ∙ June through September 632 E. Alisal St., Gabby Plaza, Salinas 831.384.6869 www.everyonesharvest.org

Friday

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monterey

11AM–3:30PM Mid-May through October 1441 Constitution Blvd., Salinas 831.384.6961 ∙ www.everyonesharvest.org

3–7:30PM · May 2 through September 26 San Benito Street between Fourth and Seventh streets 831.636.8406 ∙ www.downtownhollister.org

Monterey Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market

towards soledad & king city

10AM–2PM ∙ Year-round 980 Fremont St. ∙ 831.728.5060 www.montereybayfarmers.org Hwy 68

Salinas Valley Memorial Certiﬁed Farmers‘ Market 1:30–5:30PM ∙ Mid-May through October 450 E. Romie Lane ∙ 831.384.6961 www.everyonesharvest.com

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Hollister Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market

carmel

Thursday

Saturday Oldtown Marketplace Farmers’ Market

9AM–2PM ∙ Year-round Main and Gabilan streets, Salinas 831.229.7455 ∙ marketplace.oldtown@gmail.com Seaside Certiﬁed Farmers‘ Market

10AM–2PM ∙ June through September 656 Broadway 831.384.6961 ∙www.everyonesharvest.org

Soledad Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market

4–8PM · April 5 through October 11 137 Soledad St. ∙ 831.674.2849

Sunday

Carmel-by-the-Sea Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market

Carmel Valley Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market

10AM–2PM ∙ Year-round 6th Ave., Carmel-by-the-Sea 209.549.6434 ∙ www.gsfma.org

10AM–3PM ∙ Year-round 77 W. Carmel Valley Road ∙ 650.290.3549 www.westcoastfarmersmarkets.org

North County Farmers’ Market

Marina Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market

2PM–Dusk ∙ Year-round 11261 Crane St., Castroville 831.633.3084 ∙ www.ncrpd.org

10AM–2PM ∙ Year-round 215 Reservation Road ∙ 831.384.6961 www.everyonesharvest.org

Oldtown Marketplace Farmers‘ Market

Del Monte Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market

3-8PM ∙ August 23 through Thanksgiving Main and Gabilan streets, Salinas 831.229.7455 ∙ marketplace.oldtown@gmail.com See opposite side for Santa Cruz County.

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Alisal Certiﬁed Farmers’ Market

Natividad Certiﬁed Farmers‘ Market

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9AM–1PM ∙ May through September 3690 The Barnyard 831.633.3084 ∙ www.montereybayfarmers.org

Wednesday

salinas

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8AM–Noon ∙ May through September 1410 Del Monte Center, Monterey 831.728.5060 ∙ www.montereybayfarmers.org

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BEHIND THE BOTTLE

NIGHT HARVEST

A photo essay by winemaker Alex Krause captures the pre-dawn beauty of the grape harvest

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Dawn breaks at the Antle vineyard in the Chalone AVA not far from Pinnacles National Park

When the days get shorter and the fog permanently parks itself offshore, it’s harvest season in the vineyards of the Central Coast. Fall is often the hottest part of the year around here and that’s one reason most of the grape harvests take place in the middle of the night. After just a few hours of sleep, picking crews and winemakers arrive at the vineyards around 2 am, working quickly to fill their bins by dawn. It’s chilly, especially in the vineyards at higher elevations, and that’s just the way the winemaker wants it. “You want the fruit to come into the winery cold,” says Alex Krause, who with partner John Locke owns Birichino wine in Santa Cruz. “The chemistry is better and the acidity is a little higher. It stands a better chance of having a healthy start to the winemaking process.” It’s atmospheric—with harvest lights illuminating the rows and everyone wearing headlamps—and year after year those fall scenes have inspired Krause, who is also an accomplished photographer. He shoots with a Nikon D800, and sometimes an IPhone, More of his prints can be viewed in the Birichino tasting room. —Deborah Luhman

www.ediblemontereybay.com

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Inspecting and finishing up the harvest of Chenin Blanc grapes (this page and upper left) and Antle vineyard just before sunrise (left)

www.ediblemontereybay.com

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ON THE FARM

GENIUS AND JUSTICE Organic agriculture and activism intersect at UCSC’s farm apprentice program BY ELLEN FARMER PHOTOGRAPHY BY CRYSTAL BIRNS For 20-some years, while sitting in her office and working as a bilingual counselor at Santa Cruz High School, Ana Rasmussen longed to take six months off and study organic farming just up the hill at UC Santa Cruz. But the Apprenticeship in Ecological Horticulture has always been a residential program and she was raising her kids, so as soon as they grew up, she wasted no time in applying and becoming an apprentice. Friends had told her, “It will change your life,” and she agrees the program inspired her in many ways. “It was a combination of excellent teaching—what we learned to do with our hands—but most of all getting to know the other apprentices while we were working side by side and learning where they came from and what they hoped to do with this training,” she recalls. As an apprentice, she was especially impressed by the work of two alumni who returned to speak to the group: Doron Comer-

chero (2004), who runs the Santa Cruz-based FoodWhat?! youth empowerment organization, and Karen Washington (2008), recently recognized by the Obama Administration for developing urban gardens in New York City neighborhoods. “It just never occurred to me that you could do social justice work in a garden,” says Rasmussen, who went on to found her first community garden program, Mesa Verde Gardens, in Watsonville. Today Rasmussen and two former farmworkers run a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program called Esperanza Community Farms in Watsonville. She says the community is ringed by organic farms, but much of the organic produce is shipped away and priced too high for farmworkers to buy. So they offer affordable organic CSA boxes containing the types of tomatoes, chiles and cilantro familiar in Watsonville kitchens.

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As one of the country’s most respected organic training courses, UCSC’s farm apprenticeship program has been challenging conventional agriculture for 50 years, but now the focus is shifting with instructors, students and alumni—like Ana Rasmussen—challenging the nation’s food system as a whole, asking why some people still don’t have access to healthy food and others still go hungry.

INCREASING DIVERSITY The 30-acre farm and 3-acre Alan Chadwick Garden host the highly competitive apprenticeship program, held each year from April to October. Some 39 individuals are selected from an international pool of hundreds of applicants. Tuition is about $6,000; but to make it as accessible as possible, no eager organic advocate is turned away for lack of funds. Many scholarships are available—including the Matthew Raiford Scholarship for veterans and the Food Justice and Equity Scholarship that funded six apprentices this year. “We get the activists and teach them how to farm,” says Orin Martin (1974), beloved teacher, gardener and orchardist who has been part of the program for 40 years. “We have a strong tradition of practical apprentice-style learning about gardening and farming and now we’re weaving in the threads of social justice, so it’s a really robust tapestry we’re building here.” Other notable instructors include Jim Leap, Christof Bernau, Lyn Garling, Liz Milazzo, and Kirstin Yogg, to name a few. In addition to ensuring each group of apprentices is as diverse as possible, part of keeping the program relevant in today’s world begins with tackling food insecurity right on campus. Physics professor George Brown has spent a great deal of his spare time championing the apprentice program among donors. He used the word “magical” to describe the farm more

than once during an interview under a walnut tree on the farm. In 2012, Brown helped recruit environmental studies professor Daniel Press to take the reins as executive director when the program was facing devastating financial consequences as a result of the recession. Press, who admits he loves the challenge of fundraising, points out that these are extraordinary times when students can go hungry because of the inadequacy of student aid and rising rents. “As we increased our production of food (grown by the apprentices), it was diverted off campus,” Press says, acknowledging that was a natural way to teach farm business skills. “Now we turn that food up the hill toward the students,” in the form of low-cost, pop-up veggie stands and even emergency food pan-

CRITICAL THINKING The newest apprentice instructor, Kellee Matsushita-Tseng (2014), has a background in community organizing. She became the current farm and garden assistant manager after two seasons of apprenticeship, and calls the farm a place of transformational thinking. She wants the apprentices she trains in organic farming techniques to also develop “the capacity to think critically about the food system and their place in it as a whole. I found farm-

GRADUATES IN THE FIELD “The mothership of organic,” is what Bob Scowcroft calls the UCSC Farm. He was the first executive director of California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF) and founder of the Organic Farming Research Foundation (OFRF). Our myriad regional farmers’ markets and CSA programs, along with the legitimizing legal structure of organic certification, all were developed in our backyard with continuous input from the apprentice program. How many of these local farmers do you know? Jim Nelson and Beth Benjamin (1967) Camp Joy Gardens, Boulder Creek

Teresa Kurtak (2004) Fifth Crow Farm, Pescadero

Dennis Tamura (1979) Blue Heron Farms, Corralitos

Emily Freed (2005) Jacobs Farm/del Cabo and Farmer Freed Santa Cruz

Kelly Mulville (1984) Paicines Ranch, Hollister Jered Lawson (1994) and Nancy Vail (1997) Pie Ranch, Pescadero Joe Schirmer (1995) Dirty Girl Produce, Santa Cruz Tom Broz (1995) Live Earth Farm, Watsonville Ryan Casey (2001) Blue House Farm, Pescadero

Second year apprentice Lucas Hill (top row) hopes to grow stone fruits in the Davis area, apprentice instructor Kellee Matsushita-Tseng (center row-left) and Chadwick garden manager Orin Martin (center row-right), graduate Ana Rasmussen of Esperanza Community Farms (bottom row)

tries to address student food insecurity. Brown says the philanthropic community began paying attention to food security issues just in time to save the apprentice program by providing multi-year operating support, so it didn’t have to double tuition.

Mike Irving and John Vars (2002) Fifth Crow Farm, Pescadero Jasmine Roohani (2002) Route 1 Farms, Santa Cruz

Heather April and James Cook (2006) Groundswell Farm, Santa Cruz Caleb Barron (2007) Fogline Farm, Santa Cruz Marsha Habib (2008) Oya Organics, Hollister Emily Parsons (2011) Everett Family Farm, Soquel Caroline Martin (2015) Wild Moon Flowers, Santa Cruz Laura Vollset (2016) Fieldsketch Farm, Soquel

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ing to be the intersection of all the things I was working on,” which she lists as labor rights, community and women’s health issues, education, youth empowerment and prison justice. However, like many people, the cost of land in California is prohibiting her from even imagining having her own farm. “We’re at a really crucial place right now where so much land is turning hands,” says Matsushita-Tseng. “It’s actually something I stay up at night thinking about because I know dozens and dozens if not hundreds of young farmers who are so eager and so knowledgeable and so skilled, but they can’t access the land and the capital to do this and yet all that land is being lost.” Part of last year’s curriculum was a presentation by farmer and role model Mai Nguyen who is the California organizer of the National Young Farmers Coalition and on the board of the U.S. Federation of Worker Cooperatives. She also co-owns and operates the Sonoma Grain Collaborative, and her work complements that of former apprentice and attorney, Neil Thapar (2012), from the Sustainable Economies Law Center (SELC) in Oakland. Thapar and Nguyen are some of the midwives of a re-energized interest in alternative farm ownership models in California, and are hoping to re-shape the food system into something more responsive and fair to both eaters and farmers. “Consolidation of farm land ownership by non-farmers who don’t know anything about producing food threatens the availability of food itself,” Thapar says. Through land trusts and agricultural easements, new legal ownership structures for beginning farmers are in the works in California.

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HARD WORK The UCSC Farm & Garden have always been populated with people pushing the limits of their era who relish hard work. From Steve Kaffka—who as a conscientious objector taught the first group of apprentices—to the class of 2018, the farm has been and continues to be a place of transformation. Says Kaffka: “I was working pretty much seven days a week. The work ethic that Alan brought and embodied was basically the only thing I knew as well; there was only one way to do things, and that was to work constantly, dawn to dusk, which everybody did. Actually, when you’re young, it’s a glorious thing to do. It’s a glorious thing to be so in your body. I think one of the most powerful things that Alan taught had nothing to do with particular gardening techniques; it had to do with being in your body, and being able to physically effect change in the landscape with your muscles and have that kind of direct, intimate connection with the land.” And Martin, who has personally mentored nearly all the apprentices since 1977, says he still loves coming to work every day. “One of the joys of my life is working with bright, motivated 20- and 30- somethings. They come here to learn and then go on to do things I would neither dare nor dream of doing, and they succeed! I am honored to play a small role in teaching them. They are truly the ‘light of the world’ and have measurably improved the face of organic farming.” Ellen Farmer is a freelance writer and organizer living in Santa Cruz.

ALAN CHADWICK’S LEGACY

Passionfish

restaurant

Photo courtesy Special Collections, UC Santa Cruz

More than 1,500 apprentices have participated since the farm was built when the back-to-theland movement was in full swing in the 1970s. Thanks to the robust efforts of Alan Chadwick—whom many people considered a genius—a rocky hillside on the brand new campus was transformed into an eyecatching flower, fruit and vegetable garden. A Shakespearean actor and World War II British Navy commander trained in biointensive gardening techniques by the likes of Rudolf Steiner, Chadwick had what we now call PTSD from the war and had, by his own description, “forsaken mankind.” He maintained a reverence for the bounties of nature, however, and this proved contagious to students. When called upon, he could also be an excellent chef and host, a tradition that continues at the farm. Copious Chadwick lore can be found at www.alan-chadwick.org or by reading Paul A. Lee’s tribute in the summer 2017 issue of EMB or online. Faculty and staff witnessed the miracle unfold, and soon had the daily option of picking up free flower bouquets freshly cut at dawn by student volunteers. The French-intensive, always-organic garden and farm with the ocean view became embedded in UCSC culture and that of the wider Monterey Bay community. Now operated under UCSC’s Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems (CASFS), the Environmental Studies department and the Social Sciences division, the farm and garden are open to the public for strolling daily from 8am–5pm, and children are welcome. The public can also participate in the Friends of the Farm and Garden program initiated by Louise Cain, a faculty wife impassioned by the farm’s importance to the surrounding community. There were many times when nobody knew where the next dollar would come from, so Cain built a membership organization which continues to train docents and volunteers today. Community members can take gardening classes with Martin and others, and Friends members get a discount. The weekly farm stand at the foot of campus and annual plant sale provide income and marketing experience for apprentices.

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BACK OF THE HOUSE

CHEFS’ KIDS

Are they born with a discerning palate? Or are the children of local chefs just luckier than other kids? BY AMBER TURPIN PHOTOGRAPHY BY JULIE CAHILL AND CRYSTAL BIRNS

It’s back-to-school season, which means it’s back to lunch packing as well. We all have our own strategies and opinions when it comes to whipping up that school lunch day after day after day after day. And that is just one small part of the kid + food equation—a demanding and ever-evolving issue. The conundrum of what to prepare for kids also pertains to chefs, who, despite their expertise in the kitchen, have the additional burden of usually being at work during mealtimes. We spoke with several local chefs who have kids, to find out what really goes on in their home kitchens and happily scribbled down their favorite kidfriendly recipes.

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We find if he is cooking, he stays out of mischief

SANTOS MAJANO An adorable 4-year-old named Mateo is the son of chef Santos Majano, who helms The Kitchen at Discretion Brewing after a long career working in fine dining establishments such as Cyrus in Healdsburg and Soif in Santa Cruz. Like many kids in that age range, Mateo is “strong willed and the joy of our lives,” says Majano. He and his wife, Laura, use cooking as a way to keep their bundle of energy engaged. “Mateo is obsessed with making this base of garlic, onions and cumin in the food processor. We use it in beans, rice, soups, sauces...now, because he enjoys it so much, it is the start of most meals. We find if he is cooking, he stays out of mischief, so whatever we make, he has a job and is right there with us,” Majano says. Perhaps due to Mateo’s involvement in the kitchen, he doesn’t make much of a fuss about trying new foods. Any parent can talk at length about how challenging mealtime can be. To avoid pickiness, some folks swear by starting at a young age with a simple technique that Majano and his wife employ. “We just keep putting it on the plate. He surprises us often,” he says. You’ll regularly find the little family of three out at the farmers’ market, picking up food to grill at home, as well as ingredients for the restaurant. Majano says, “Going to the farmers’ market is a big ritual for us. It is a great part of work that the family can be involved in.”

MATEO’S SALSA VERDE Courtesy Santos Majano, chef, The Kitchen at Discretion Brewing in Soquel ½ bunch of parsley ½ bunch of basil ½ bunch of cilantro ¼ bunch of dill 4 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon cumin 1 small shallot 2 tablespoons lemon juice ½ cup olive oil Blend all ingredients in a food processor until smooth, about 1–1½ minutes, depending on your machine. Taste for additional seasoning, and serve on grilled meats, veggies or egg frittata. Makes about 1 cup.

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ROAST CHICKEN Courtesy Katherine Stern, chef, La Posta in Santa Cruz 1 whole 3½–4 pound chicken (I usually buy from Fogline Farms) Salt 1 cup chicken stock or water Season the bird generously with salt and let sit overnight or at least 8 hours. When ready to roast, pat the bird dry with a kitchen towel, tuck the wing tips under its back and let sit at room temperature. I use a variation of what I call the Zuni Café method to roast the chicken. Heat oven to about 500° F. Choose a pan that will fit the bird snugly. (At home, I use an oval, enameled cast iron pot that belonged to my grandmother.) Place the pan on the stove over high heat. When hot, place the bird in, breast side up. It should sizzle and sear immediately. The hot pan will prevent the bird from sticking.

KATHERINE STERN The accomplished chef at La Posta in Santa Cruz and mom to 4-year-old twins Eli and Mena, Katherine Stern admits that, like many of her counterparts, she doesn’t actually cook much at home. “Due to the schedule of a chef and the hours that includes, I’m not home every night for dinner. When I’m working nights, my husband does dinner and all nighttime routines,” she explains. And while that may mean the kids get a fish stick or two on occasion, as any dad with his hands full would admit, the parents try to incorporate fresh vegetables and fruits into every meal as much as possible. Stern says, “When the kids were babies, they weren’t super picky. They loved liver and Brussels sprouts and pretty much everything you put in front of them. As they got older and started to resist eating vegetables, it was frustrating that I was constantly throwing meals away. Our pediatrician urged us to keep offering the veggies, making them familiar with what we eat as a family in hopes that one day they would give them a try. We began to have more success once we put everything on the table ‘family style’ and everyone helped themselves to what they wanted. The kids loved the independence it gave them, and making their own choices meant more was tried.” However, that democratic dinnertime format “has led to making extremely simple meals of meat and veg to avoid the rejection of an entire meal...our pre-children meals of curries, stews, hearty soups are gone for now,” Stern says. But the twins are still restaurant kids, which is the reality of having a chef mom. Stern says, “We’ve continued to eat out since having kids. They went to their first restaurant at two weeks old. Of course, we choose carefully and go early, but it’s relatively successful...as long as there is ice cream.” Since she is usually at home in the morning, Stern and the twins often make pancakes and waffles together. She likes to let them help crack eggs and measure dry ingredients. “They help stir the batter,” she says, “but I often take over. The chef in me doesn’t want them over-mixed.”

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Place the pan in the hot oven and roast for 20 minutes. Turn the chicken over onto its breast, place back in the oven and roast for an additional 30 minutes. Turn the bird back over, breast up again, and roast for another 10–15 minutes, re-crisping the skin. Remove the bird from the pan and place in a warm spot to rest for 20–25 minutes. In the meantime, strain away any fat from the roasting pan (you can reserve this to roast potatoes) and add about 1 cup of chicken stock or water. Place over high heat and gently scrape up all of the delicious caramelized bits of chicken and stir them in. Reduce by half and taste for seasoning. It should be pretty good from the already seasoned chicken but add any additional salt, to taste. Carve the chicken and serve with a jug of sauce to pass around. We fight over the thighs. Serves 4-6.

Photos on this page by Crystal Birns, all others by Julie Cahill

BRAD BRISKE The restaurant Home in Soquel is, by intention, a home away from home for the self-described “tribe” behind it. When chef Brad Briske and his wife, Linda Ritten, set about launching this project in 2016, it was certainly not alone. Linda’s sister Sanra Ritten and her husband Diego Felix, who take their creative food expositions on the road and across continents via Colectivo Felix, moved to town to help open the restaurant. Both couples have two kids. The Briske girls are Lola (7) and Inka (3), and the Felix boys are Elias (7) and Benicio (4). Needless to say, this is a busy clan. The kids’ granddad, whom they call Big G, came up from San Diego to help out through the opening months of Home. “He will watch the kids a lot if we have to work, which is pretty amazing for a grandparent to watch four kids under seven all together. And he will watch them for long 10–12 hour shifts, so he does lunch, dinner, bedtime, etc. All our friends with kids are envious of Big G,” Ritten says. “They are restaurant kids. They hang out,” says Briske. Both of his girls were born while he was at the height of a busy cooking career, which means they are not used to a regular nine-to-five kind of lifestyle. Plus, they eat a lot of incredible food. When asked what a typical weekday menu is for the family, Briske says, “I can’t even answer that because I’m here (at the restaurant) all day long. Today on my day off (Monday), we had waffles, fried chicken, lots of snacks. Then we’ll go out to dinner, somewhere fancy and have more restaurant food. But even on a day off, we are here making snacks, cleaning up. We eat a lot of restaurant food, leftovers, ragus, steak, chicken, clams, octopus.” Being exposed to this level of cuisine, the picky issue has never played out much for the girls. “Not really ever had to handle it,” says Briske. He attributes that to the fact that they have been very involved in the entire cooking process for their whole lives. That’s why Inka’s favorite dish is squid ink pasta with clams while Lola loves gnocchi with octopus and tomato sauce. Over at the Felix household, the day-to-day is a little more simplified. “A typical weekday menu consists of brown rice, broccoli or cauliflower,” Felix says. “Both my boys love soy sauce and nutritional yeast on everything. Elias also loves inari and sushi and so his brother eats those just to copy him. When we have Argentine friends over, we do ‘Californian Asados,’ lots of grilled meat, vegetables and salads.” And while the family doesn’t go out to eat very much, the boys do enjoy the bento box at Akira quite a bit. On the occasional Sunday, Home has begun doing special events in its beautiful backyard garden space. The vibe is a bit more casual, and “free-range kids” can run wild, says Briske.

HONEY BALSAMIC DRIZZLE Courtesy Brad Briske, chef, Home in Soquel 1 cup balsamic vinegar ¼ cup honey The Home restaurant tribe makes big pots of honey balsamic reduction, which is slowly reduced for hours. To replicate, use the measurements above and slowly reduce to 1/3 cup. “Drizzled on vegetables or, let’s say, tossed on Brussels sprouts, this gets my kids to chow down and even converts full-grown adults at the restaurant,” says Briske. Pro tip: Briske sometimes makes a two-part reduction by adding tomato paste and water after the original reduction and cooking it down a second time to get a less syrupy sauce.

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MEATBALLS FOR MAYA AND DUKE Courtesy Angela Tamura, chef, Pèppoli in Pebble Beach 1/2 pound ground pork shoulder 1/4 pound ground pork belly 1/4 pound ground beef 2 ounces onion, chopped 5 ounces (drained weight) high-quality ricotta cheese 2 tablespoons parsley, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 slice white bread, soaked in water 1 egg yolk 2 ounces Parmesan, grated Salt and pepper, to taste Olive oil for frying Marinara or favorite tomato sauce Put the ground meats in a medium-sized bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Fold the meat over itself and work the mixture for a few minutes to achieve a smoother texture. Form the meat into balls of whatever size you prefer. I usually make them 2½–3 ounces (5–6 tablespoons) in size each. Brown the meatballs all over in a skillet in batches until they are a deep brown. Simmer in your favorite tomato sauce for 1–1½ hours. Enjoy with crusty bread or pasta. Serves 4-6.

ANGELA TAMURA Another busy chef whose partner takes the kitchen reins while she’s at work is Angela Tamura, chef de cuisine since 2010 of Pèppoli at Pebble Beach. She is mother to Maya (12), nicknamed “The Bear,” who loves her cat and her chickens, and to Lucas (7), nicknamed “The Duke,” who loves learning facts about sea creatures, lizards and bugs and loves to read late into the night. The two kids have always had different approaches to food. Maya has always tried anything new, and is more adventurous with food while Lucas is “my picky eater,” says Tamura. As some of us know too well, the couple found themselves cooking specifically to please Duke’s limited palate, just to ensure that he would eat. But now, “As he is getting older we are trying to expand his horizons and have him try new things,” Tamura says. Typical weekday fare tends to be a lot of husband-made veggie and tofu stir-fries from the family’s weekly CSA box or roast chicken and rice. But on weekends they take more time with meals, cooking up soups with homemade ciabatta bread, grilled salmon, homemade pasta, or slow-roasted pork in their Big Green Egg barbecue cooker. In terms of dining out, Tamura says, “We do not eat out very much at all, but like trying new things when we are on our yearly roadie.”

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BEN SPUNGIN Culinary director of the soon-to-open Alta Bakery + Cafe and Cella Restaurant in the historic Cooper-Molera Adobe in Monterey, Ben Spungin says that from the time his two daughters were young, “their personalities were like salt and pepper,” a fitting way for someone in the food industry to describe his kids. Briar (12) is a self-decided pescatarian while Emilu (14) is a budding chef herself. Spungin and his wife Kouri are busy people, as one would assume for a father running a new restaurant and a mother who commutes to work in Big Sur everyday. Spungin echoes a sentiment not uncommon among others in his field, “As you can imagine, chefs put in a lot of hours to cook for the masses. Chefs really have to rely on their spouses and families for meals in daily life. We usually plan easier meals during the week due to homework and Kouri driving from Big Sur after work.” But even when the girls were young, their parents never catered to the potential for picky eating. The family always ate the same foods on the table, which explains why the kids got used to eating vegetables. Not to mention attending the progressive Esalen “Gazebo” preschool, which influenced them early on with its garden-based, environmental education. On his rare days off, Spungin still likes to create food for the family. He says, “I’ll cook a simple fresh meal for everyone. It’s more to give an evening off to Kouri and the girls.” When asked what the girls request most on those special days, he says, “Believe it or not, they love my Brussels sprouts...and all things dessert.”

Chefs really have to rely on their spouses and families for meals in daily life

PAN-ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS Courtesy Ben Spungin, chef, Alta Bakery and Cella Restaurant in Monterey 3 tablespoons avocado oil 1 pound Swank Farms Brussels sprouts, halved ½ yellow onion, sliced 3 tablespoons local honey 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar Wash Brussels sprouts and cut off stem end. Cut lengthwise in half and reserve. In a large saucepan over medium to high heat, add oil. Place the Brussels, cut side down, in pan. Season with salt. Allow Brussels to brown and caramelize. Turn down to medium to low heat, add onions and stir occasionally to caramelize, 6–8 minutes. Add honey and mix well. Turn off heat and stir in the balsamic vinegar. Place into bowl and serve. Serves 4.

Amber Turpin is a freelance food and travel writer based in the Santa Cruz Mountains. www.ediblemontereybay.com

EDIBLE D.I.Y.

HOMEBREWED CIDER Quench your thirst for hard cider by making it at home BY MARIA GAURA ILLUSTRATION BY ZEPHYR PFOTENHAUER I first tasted hard cider in a scruffy London pub, in a previous century, when I was maybe 22 years old. I innocently asked the barman if the “cider” on the chalkboard menu had alcohol in it. “Yes, it does,” he barked, with an eye roll that silently added, “You nitwit.” But he pulled a short draw from the tap and planted it on the bar in front of me. It was a lovely amber color and smelled of apples—a welcome alternative to strong, warm British beer. I drank a lot of cider for the next week or two then returned to the States where I didn’t see it again for years. Hard apple cider, like mushy peas and spotted dick, was a British culinary staple that seemed to defy American duplication. Even in our own Pajaro Valley, with its abundance of apples, hard cider vanished with Prohibition and was slow to make a comeback. That long drought is now over, thank heavens, with locally brewed hard cider increasingly appearing on bar taps throughout the Monterey Bay area. Hard cider is also easy to make at home, especially if you bypass the apple-crushing part and use fresh juice from our local orchards. My first batch of hard cider was made from backyard apples, which had to be meticulously scrubbed, hand-pared to remove apple worms and chopped small enough to drop through the chute of a Jack LaLanne juicer. It took hours to produce a gallon of very cloudy juice, which I then spiked with an entire packet of champagne yeast. Champagne yeast is a good option for cider making, but it turns out that one packet is enough to inoculate five gallons of apple juice. Rookie mistake. But the result of too much yeast was fun to watch. The microbes gorged themselves on fruit sugars, belching clouds of carbon dioxide that created fizzing, swirling currents inside the glass brewing jug. To avert explosion, excess CO2 bubbled through a one-way valve comprised of a bung, an airlock, plastic tubing and a Mason jar filled with food-safe sanitizer. The jug-and-tubing contraption sat on a kitchen sideboard, where the blub-blub-blub of escaping gas serenaded us for weeks. That first batch was, well, yeasty. But we drank it gleefully, and over the next few months experimented with bottled apple juice, frozen juice concentrate and, finally, fresh-pressed apple juice from Gizdich Ranch in Watsonville. Lacking a cider mentor or a family recipe, I relied on trial and error and the Internet. Online recipes were all over the board, with some calling for white sugar, chemical flocculants, artificial sweeteners, pre- and post-brew pasteurization and compressed CO2. At the other end of the

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spectrum were hippie homesteaders who advised pouring juice into a covered bucket and leaving it in the barn for a few months. As it turns out, cider fermentation is inherently pretty safe. Yeasts eat sugar, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide as digestive byproducts. Apple juice is packed with sugar, and a sprinkling of champagne-, beer- or cider-making yeast will quickly multiply, outcompeting most troublesome microbes and/or killing them with rising alcohol levels. Some brewers reject added yeast, relying on wild microbes that naturally appear on apple skins. Adding sugar to the apple juice—whether refined sugar, maple syrup, honey or apple juice concentrate —gives the microbes more to work with and can boost alcohol levels significantly. Our three-ingredient, homebrewed cider reliably achieves a 9–10% alcohol content using nothing but juice, yeast and three tablespoons of honey per gallon at bottling. See recipe and procedure in illustration. Cleanliness also keeps bad bugs out of the brew. I like Star San, a food-safe sanitizing product that kills microbes with a highly acidic pH. Bleach- and iodine-based sanitizing solutions are also effective but can stain clothing and equipment. Brewing is a two-part process. Pour the apple juice into a sanitized glass or food-safe plastic container, sprinkle in the yeast and cover with an airtight lid equipped with a one-way valve and bubbler. Let the yeasts work for at least two weeks, or as long as several months. Siphon or carefully scoop the cider into a sanitized bucket, leaving behind the gunky bottom layer of yeast and apple debris. You can bottle the cider at this point as a noncarbonated drink, pump in pressurized CO2 or add a bit of sugar to fuel a secondary fermentation. Unpasteurized hard cider is a living food. Microbial action continues inside the bottle over time, albeit at a declining rate as sugars in the cider are consumed. I’ve found that the three tablespoons of honey I use per gallon of cider is enough to generate a bit of natural fizz from the remaining yeast microbes without blowing up any of my swing-top glass bottles. Maria Gaura is a lifelong writer, journalist and gardener. She lives in downtown Santa Cruz with her family, two elderly cats and an ambivalent garden that can’t decide if it wants to be a vegetable patch, a flower bed or a miniature orchard.

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Pick apples, then relax at our farm with a slice of pie under *Check the trees! Website for

Local seafood, produce, Local seafood, organic produce, an extensive Opening Date! 910 Cedarorganic Street, Santa Cruz • www.gabriellacafe.com an extensive local wine and dining. local wine list,(831) and457-1677 intimate indoorlist, & patio facebook intimatemenus indoor@& patio dining. Gizdich Ranch, Watsonville, CA 910 Cedar Street, Santa Cruz 910 Cedar Street, Santa Cruz Approved with no changes. (831) 457-1677 • www.gabriellacafe.com Gizdich-Ranch.com (831) 457-1677 • www.gabriellacafe.com Approved with changes indicated; no further proof necessary.

155 Walnut Street, Santa Cruz 95060

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morrisgrassfed.com 81 fourth st, san juan bautista, ca (831)623-9533

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Dine Local GUIDE Photo by Rob Fisher

All of these restaurants emphasize local ingredients, and they also advertise in Edible Monterey Bay! Stop by for a free issue, and tell them that we sent you!

See p. 53 to learn about King City’s Cork & Plough, where head bartender Rob Marshall serves up cocktails made with the Salinas Valley’s bounty.

APTOS Persephone 7945 Soquel Drive 831.612.6511 • www.persephonerestaurant.com With a namesake like the mythic Persephone, this restaurant in Aptos proclaims its deep reverence for seasonal cooking. Themes central to harvest, winter and spring are core to Persephone’s story, and are reflected in the changing menu at this fine dining destination, where chef Cori Goudge-Ayer presents inventive, ingredient-driven creations. The restaurant is a family-run passion project, bringing together parents, siblings and a long history of culinary arts in a beautifully redesigned space overlooking Aptos Creek. Open W–Su 4:30–9pm.

BIG SUR Sierra Mar at Post Ranch Inn 47900 Highway 1 831.667.2800 • www.postranchinn.com Executive chef Elizabeth Murray uses exceptional ingredients, many grown on site, to deliver a unique gastronomic take on the Big Sur experience. Lunch offers a 3-course prix fixe menu, while dinner features a 4-course prix fixe menu. Choose from almost 3,000 different wines from the Wine Spectator Grand Awardwinning wine list. Arrive before sunset for breathtaking views from this iconic restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows and cliffside terrace. Open daily for lunch noon–2:30pm, dinner 5:30–9pm. Advanced reservations required. Please note that dinner guests will not be admitted before 5pm.

CAPITOLA East End Gastropub 1501 41st Avenue 831.475.8010 • www.eastendpub.com East End Gastropub is the newer baby sister to the popular West End Tap & Kitchen, but aside from sharing owners and chefs, East End’s beautiful, recently renovated modern interior is entirely different from West End and offers its own robust, sophisticated, beer-friendly menu. Chef Geoffrey Hargrave has created dishes that are familiar yet innovative, such as the striped sea bass with fava beans and lobster broth. Share plates, pizzas and salads come in generous portions for a family-style meal. The restaurant also offers its own brews, along with local rotating taps and a strong wine list. Open Su–Th 11:30am–9:30pm, F–Sa 11:30am–10pm. Weekend brunch 10:30am– 2:30pm. Happy hour M–F 4–6pm. The Penny Ice Creamery 820 41st Avenue 831.204.2523 • www.thepennyicecreamery.com Open Su–Th noon–9pm, F–Sa noon–10pm See The Penny description under Santa Cruz for more. Shadowbrook 1750 Wharf Road 831.475.1511 • www.shadowbrook-capitola.com A Santa Cruz County landmark since 1947, the worldfamous Shadowbrook continues to be an overwhelming favorite with locals and visitors alike. Its fine food, extensive wine list and unparalleled setting and ambiance have earned it numerous awards, including Northern California’s “Most Romantic Restaurant”

www.ediblemontereybay.com

and “Best Date Night Restaurant.” Gift cards and reservations available online. Open M–F 5–8:45pm, Sa 4:30–9:45pm, Su 4:30–8:45pm.

CARMEL Aubergine Monte Verde Street at Seventh Avenue 831.624.8578 • www.auberginecarmel.com Located within the romantic L’Auberge Carmel, a visit to Aubergine feels like a trip to Europe. Executive chef Justin Cogley was named one of Food & Wine’s best new chefs of 2013. He has been nominated multiple times for a James Beard award and it’s no wonder— he’s an eloquent and imaginative interpreter of fine seasonal ingredients. Executive pastry chef Yulanda Santos delights with stunning and inventive desserts. Open daily 6–9:30pm.

Whatever trail you’re on, we have what you need to refuel and relax

• Breakfast,

Lunch and Dinner Daily

• 16

Craft Beer Taps and 40+ Bottles

• Local

• Happy

Wine

Hour 4 - 6pm Daily

3 Del Fino Place Carmel Valley 831.298.7453 trailsidecafecv.com

• NFL

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• Onsite Catering

Basil Seasonal Dining San Carlos street between Ocean and Seventh avenues (Paseo Courtyard) 831.626.8226 • www.basilcarmel.com “Organic, local and seasonal” are not just buzzwords at Basil. This cozy restaurant in the Paseo Courtyard was awarded three stars from the national Green Restaurant Association. New chef, Mary Lester, and owner, Denis Boaro, continue to provide a full bar and great selection of California and Italian wines, including Old and New World. Check website for information on monthly winemaker dinners and other events. Many vegan and vegetarian entrées available. Heated, dog-friendly outdoor seating. Open daily for lunch and dinner from 11:30am, Sa–Su brunch 11am–2pm. Covey Breakfast Restaurant 8000 Valley Greens Drive 831.620.8910 • www.quaillodge.com Overlooking a pond and manicured grounds, the newly remodeled Covey Breakfast Restaurant includes motorcycles from the Moto Talbott Museum in Carmel Valley in a nod to Quail’s annual motorsports event, while chef Brian Kearns captures the essence of a home-cooked Carmel Valley meal. The weekday à la carte menu includes nourishing skillets, eggs benedict and huevos rancheros; on weekends, enjoy an enhanced American breakfast buffet. Both indoor and outdoor seating come with beautiful views. Open daily 6:30–11am. Earthbound Farm’s Farm Stand Organic Kitchen 7250 Carmel Valley Road 831.625.6219 • www.earthboundfarm.com At its newly renovated Carmel Valley Farm Stand, Earthbound Farm’s 100% certified organic kitchen delights with housemade soups, sandwiches, a newly expanded salad bar, baked goods and fresh juices and smoothies. Food is available to be enjoyed on our beautiful grounds or for takeaway. Experience picturesque Carmel Valley as you stroll through Earthbound’s organic gardens and learn about its pioneering local heritage and commitment to organic integrity. And as always, pick up some fresh, local organic fruits and veggies. Visit our website or check out Facebook for hours, special events and classes! Edgar’s at Quail 8000 Valley Greens Drive 831.620.8910 • www.quaillodge.com Taste the fresh ingredients harvested from local organic farms that are hand selected by Edgar’s executive chef Brian Kearns and exquisitely prepared by his

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culinary team into the savory dishes available on its new menus. Set in the clubhouse of Quail Lodge & Golf Club, Edgar’s restaurant and bar features a casual elegance with its indoor and outdoor fireside dining located alongside the natural backdrop of the golf course and Santa Lucia Mountains. Edgar’s at Quail is proudly guided in the principles of sustainability by the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch and focuses on local farmto-table options. Open daily 11am–9pm. Il Grillo Mission Street between Fourth and Fifth avenues 831.238.9608 • www.ilgrillocarmel.com A more casual yet equally outstanding sister to Carmel’s La Balena, Il Grillo is staking out its own creative culinary personality, based on local food knowledge and traditions. Dinner menus are driven by local and sustainably raised ingredients, with beautiful and delicious results. Homemade desserts are made by Emily Garcia. Garden seating available. Open M-Sa 5-9pm. La Balena Junipero Street between Fifth and Sixth avenues 831.250.6295 • www.labalenacarmel.com Winner of EMB’s 2014 Local Heroes award for Best Chef/Best Restaurant, La Balena has a seasonal menu that changes daily but always expresses an inventive take on the rustic food of a Tuscan trattoria. The outstanding culinary team sources ingredients from local organic farms and prepares the restaurant’s pastas and slow-cooked meats from scratch daily. Owners Anna and Emanuele Bartolini have created an excellent Italian wine list and a warm, inviting atmosphere, complete with back garden seating. Open Tu-Su 11:30am3:30pm, 5-10pm.

OCEAN TO TABLE · 100% LOCAL & ORGANIC

SUN–THU 5:00–9:00PM · FRI–SAT 5:00–9:30 PM

WWW.WILD-FISH.COM · 831.373.8523 · WILDFISHPG@GMAIL.COM

545 LIGHTHOUSE AVENUE · PACIFIC GROVE

Waypoint Bar & Deck 8205 Valley Greens Drive 831.620.8910 • www.quaillodge.com Locals and visitors alike have an exciting and beautiful new spot to stop for a whiskey flight, local craft beer, creative cocktails, wines by the glass or bottle, and contemporary small bites and appetizers made with local, sustainable ingredients. The new Waypoint Bar & Deck offers monthly chef specials like “Bubbles & Birdies” (fried chicken and Champagne) and a tantalizing regular menu featuring such items as chef Brian Kearns’ beef Shortrib Nachos with Charred Avocado, Roasted Heirloom Carrots, burgers, flatbreads and duck fat fries. Also available for private events, rental fees apply. Open W–Su 5–10pm.

CARMEL VALLEY Jerome’s Carmel Valley Market 2 Chambers Lane 831.659.2472 • www.jeromescarmelvalleymarket.com Already known for its specialty groceries, meats and fresh local produce, this beloved market is now serving classically French-trained chef Jerome Viel’s delicious hot prepared foods, sandwiches and mostly organic salad bar for eating at comfortable outdoor seating or takeaway. The offerings start with breakfast burritos, croissants and other French pastries in the morning, followed by favorites such as coq au vin, spaghetti carbonara and chicken enchiladas for lunch. On Friday afternoon, the big paella pan appears just in time to take some home for dinner. Open M–Sa 7am–7pm, Su 7am–6pm.

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Lucia Restaurant & Bar Bernardus Lodge & Spa • 415 W. Carmel Valley Road 831.658.3400 • www.bernarduslodge.com Indulge in artisanal California country cuisine, award-winning wines and an expansive heated outdoor terrace with the finest restaurant view in Carmel Valley. Named for the Santa Lucia mountain range and wine appellation that beckons to the south, renowned chef Cal Stamenov serves both his signature tasting menu and dishes à la carte. Wine list is equally notable. A private chef’s table and wine cellar are also available. Enjoy live music Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday evenings and at Saturday and Sunday brunch. Open daily 7am–10pm.

KURT GOLLNICK – COO, TYLER SCHEID – PROJECT MANAGER, SCOTT SCHEID – CEO, HEIDI SCHEID – SR. VICE PRESIDENT, AL SCHEID – CHAIRMAN, FOUNDER

E n j o y f a m i l y.

Trailside Café and Beer Garden 3 Del Fino Place 831.298.7453 • www.trailsidecafecv.com Those needing to refuel after a day on the trail can head to Trailside Café for home-cooked meals in Carmel Valley. Beer lovers get to choose from 16 on tap, and sports fans can watch games on the HDTVs. Locals are treated to specials on Mondays and Tuesdays. On the weekends enjoy live music in the beer garden. Check out the calendar on its website for more details. Dog friendly in outdoor areas. Open daily 8am–9pm.

DAVENPORT

TA S T I N G R O O M - S A N C A R L O S & 7 T H , C A R M E L - B Y- T H E - S E A FA M I LY- O W N E D & E S TAT E G R O W N S I N C E 1 9 7 2 • S C H E I D FA M I LY W I N E S . C O M

Whale City Bakery 490 Highway 1 831.423.9009 • www.whalecitybakery.com Davenport’s artistic charm and oceanside location make it hard not to slow when you pass through on Highway 1. Those in the know always stop at the historic Whale City Bakery. The bakery tempts with housemade breads, pastries, muffins and pies—and that’s only the beginning! Whale City also offers a full restaurant that serves up comfort classics and other hearty dishes. The bar and live music every Thursday attract a loyal local following. Open daily 6:30am–8pm.

FELTON The Cremer House 6256 Highway 9 831.335.3976 • www.cremerhouse.com Housed in the oldest building in Felton, The Cremer House showcases progressive, made-from-scratch food and drinks with a nod to its historic mountain surroundings. This alehouse has filled a niche in the San Lorenzo Valley, bringing to this restored and revered property craft beer, cider and wine on tap, and combining it with organic and sustainable fare made with local ingredients. Open Tu–Th, Su 11:30am– 9pm, F–Sa 11:30am–9:30pm. Wild Roots Market 6240 Highway 9 • 831.335.7322 (Felton) 13159 Highway 9 • 831.338.7211 (Boulder Creek) www.wildrootsmarket.com Wild Roots’ 100% organic produce, natural groceries, organic meats and FishWise-certified seafood all go into the prepared foods offered by the store’s fullservice deli, salad and soup bar and juice bar. Open daily 9am–9pm. Enjoy on the patio or take home.

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KING CITY The Cork & Plough 200 Broadway Street 831.386.9491 • www.thecorkandplough.com It’s no wonder that The Cork & Plough is a favorite stop for travelers on the Hwy. 101 corridor and Salinas Valley locals alike. The downtown location is convenient; the hip, airy room and its massive tinted concrete bar are inviting; and the terrific food is prepared by chef/ proprietor Travis Childers and sous chef Will Bergeron with super-fresh ingredients direct from local farms. And if you’re not the designated driver, don’t miss the cocktails crafted with housemade infusions by head bartender Rob Marshall or the wines and beers carefully curated by co-proprietor Anna Childers. Open Su–Th 11am–9pm, F–Sa 11am–10pm.

MONTEREY The Club Room 2 Portola Plaza 831.649.2698 • www.portolahotel.com/dining/theclub-room The Club Room inside the Portola Hotel & Spa offers a fresh, seasonal, breakfast buffet featuring made-toorder omelets, assorted housemade pastries and muffins, sliced cold cuts, fine artisan cheeses, bottomless mimosas and much more all for $19.95. Dine in the cozy fireside dining room, or breathe in the fresh coastal air on the outdoor, pet-friendly, heated patio. Open for breakfast daily 6–11am. the C restaurant + bar InterContinental The Clement Monterey 750 Cannery Row 831.375.4500 • www.ictheclementmonterey.com Step into the C restaurant + bar, and the bustle of Cannery Row will seem like a world away. Elegant yet relaxed, the C offers stunning ocean views from its floor-to-ceiling windows and oceanside deck. Executive chef Matt Bolton provides equally gorgeous food, imaginatively prepared from sustainably sourced seafood, meats and produce. Creative cocktails include international specialties, as well as sparkling wine flights from around the world. Open daily 6:30am– 10pm, Happy Hour 4–7pm Su–Th. Live Music F–Su noon–3pm, Th–Sa 6–9pm. Jacks Monterey 2 Portola Plaza 831.649.7830 • www.jacksatportola.com Jacks Monterey offers “California Cultural Cuisine” and seats guests beneath the trees in a glass-topped atrium where they can enjoy the sun by day and the stars at night. Reflecting the palette of the Monterey Peninsula, the new space is decorated with ocean blues, driftwood browns and the greens of coastal flora. Chef Danny Abbruzzese’s new seasonal menu provides a melting pot of flavor profiles from the entire California coastline and other exotic locales. Open for lunch daily 11:30am–4pm, dinner daily 4–11pm, Sunday brunch with live music 11:30am–3pm. Peter B’s Brewpub 2 Portola Plaza 831.649.2699 • www.peterbsbrewpub.com Experience Monterey’s original craft brewery, Peter B’s Brewpub, located behind the Portola Hotel & Spa. Enjoy great food and award-winning hand-

PEARL OF THE OCEAN Award Winning Chef Ayoma Wilen Best Chef America 2013

Sri Lankan Organic Restaurant Fresh, Local, Organic Ayurvedic Healing Food 736 Water Street Midtown Santa Cruz 831.457.2350

Ayoma’s specially crafted White & Red Pearl Wines www.ediblemontereybay.com

Work Party Catering

crafted beers. Watch your favorite game on one of 18 HDTVs or enjoy the pet-friendly heated patio with fire pits. Peter B’s is open daily with nightly Happy Hour from 4–6:30pm, as well as late night happy hour Su–Th 9:30–10:30pm. Open Su 11am–11pm, M–Th 4–11pm, F 4pm–12am, Sa 11am–12am. Sunday breakfast and football 9:30–11am (Sept.–Dec.). Schooners Coastal Kitchen & Bar Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa 400 Cannery Row 831.372.2628 • www.schoonersmonterey.com Sit out on the newly remodeled oceanside patio if you can, but it’s still considered seaside dining if you are seated inside the dining room, where polished wood, bay windows and seafaring décor seem like the interior of a sailing ship. Schooners Coastal Kitchen & Bar serves sustainable seafood and prime steaks. The restaurant takes a creative Californian approach to soups, fresh salads, sandwiches and wood-fired flatbreads, paired with a diverse wine list featuring local favorites. Open daily 6:30am–11pm.

PACIFIC GROVE Happy Girl Kitchen Co. 173 Central Avenue 831.373.4475 • www.happygirlkitchen.com The menu changes daily at Happy Girl’s airy and bright Pacific Grove café, but the food is always delicious, organic and reasonably priced. The sandwich of the day is $6.50, and a bowl of the soup of the day is $6. To drink, you’ll find kombucha on tap and freshly roasted Verve coffee brewed to perfection. Homemade baked goods include a daily scone, cookies and turnovers. Check the website for information on seasonal workshops. Open daily 7:30am–3pm, coffee and tea served until 5pm. Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar 542 Lighthouse Avenue 831.920.2662 • www.jeninni.com Inspired by flavors of the Mediterranean, Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar’s rich and decadent cuisine takes you on a journey from Morocco and Spain to the Levant, birthplace of owner and sommelier, Thamin Saleh. Don’t miss chef Matthew Zimny’s charred octopus, lamb burger with signature eggplant fries and occasional paella nights and other special events. Open every day except Wednesday, 5pm until close. Happy Hour—”sips and snacks”—4–6pm.

WEST END

EAST END

Santa Cruz 471.8115 Lunch & Dinner everyday

Capitola 475.8010 Dinner everyday, Lunch on Fridays & Weekend Brunch

www.westendtap.com | www. eastendpub.com 54

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Passionfish 701 Lighthouse Avenue 831.655.3311 • www.passionfish.net If you’re looking for a restaurant with playful, spectacular food and a scrupulous commitment to sustainability, this green-certified restaurant is hard to rival. The elegant dining room is celebratory yet relaxed, and the award-winning wine list features many sustainable names and is priced at retail. Chef Ted Walter’s menu is ever changing with the seasons, but always includes delicious organic local produce, inventive slow-cooked meats and an array of sustainable seafood choices. Open daily 5pm. Point Pinos Grill 79 Asilomar Boulevard 831.648.5774 • www.ptpinosgrill.com With sweeping views of the coast and a relaxed clubhouse vibe, this scenic spot has blossomed under the direction of executive chef Dory Ford. For breakfast,

choose from huevos rancheros, chicken fried steak and an array of tasty omelets. For lunch through dinner, enjoy dishes like Ale-Steamed Mussels and Crispy Fried Dry Rubbed Jerk Chicken Wings paired with craft beers, local wines or a house specialty cocktail. Open M–F 7:30am–7pm, Sa 7am–7pm, Su 7am– 6pm. Happy Hour is M–F 4–6pm. Poppy Hall 569 Lighthouse Avenue 831.204.9990 • www.poppyhallpg.com A joint effort by long-time Big Sur Bakery chef Philip Wojtowicz and Big Sur Roadhouse chef Brendan Esons, Poppy Hall has a relaxed vibe and beautiful poppy-strewn interior designed by de sola.barnes. With rustic California-meets-Mediterranean cuisine— think roasted rock cod, pork shoulder confit, oyster stew, salad niçoise and swiss cheese herb fritters—this is quickly becoming where the locals hang. Monday nights feature $1 oysters, and well-priced wines and beers, plus $17.77 corkage, guarantee diners will return. Save room for meringue clouds and candied pistachios. Open W–M from 5pm. Wild Fish 545 Lighthouse Avenue 831.373.8523 • www.wild-fish.com Owners Liz and Kelvin Jacobs welcome you to feast on the bounty of nearby waters and farms at their 100% local and organic seafood house, with exquisite dishes like crispy sablefish and swordfish au poivre, accompanied by succulent native seaweeds. Fresh oysters, innovative salads, house-baked bread and sides like fingerling potatoes with poppy seed crème fraîche or baby carrots with wild nettle pesto, make this a dining destination. Did we mention English sticky toffee pudding? Open Su–Th 5–9pm, F–Sa 5–9:30pm.

PEBBLE BEACH The Bench The Lodge at Pebble Beach, 1700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining Overlooking the 18th hole at Pebble Beach Golf Links, The Bench at The Lodge at Pebble Beach delivers an eclectic menu inspired by international styles and methods, which uses the innovative technique of wood roasting and open-flame cooking. You can also enjoy one-of-a-kind craft cocktails, as well as an array of draft beers and wines by the glass. Open daily 11am–10pm. Gallery Cafe The Lodge at Pebble Beach, 1700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining Overlooking the first tee of Pebble Beach Golf Links, Gallery Cafe offers a wide selection of breakfast choices, from light smoothies to omelets and pancakes. For a casual lunch, try the excellent burgers or choose from a delicious selection of artisan sandwiches, plus the best milkshakes this side of the 1950s. Open daily 6am–2pm. Pèppoli at Pebble Beach The Inn at Spanish Bay, 2700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining At Pèppoli, the scents of Italian herbs and spices fill the air, and the décor transports you to a cozy Tuscan villa. The menu is big and bold, ripe with traditional pastas, seafood and meats. The extraordinary wine list is matched by equally impressive dishes, including delicious desserts, all with stunning views of Spanish Bay. Open daily 5:30–10pm.

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Roy’s at Pebble Beach The Inn at Spanish Bay, 2700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining It’s all about big flavors and the gorgeous ocean view at Roy’s at Pebble Beach. Fresh seafood is front and center, where sushi, sashimi and blackened rare Ahi tuna are prepared to perfection, but many exciting meat dishes and island salads are also featured on the extensive Hawaiian-fusion menu. Add a dynamic wine list, exceptional desserts and an energetic environment, and you have one impressive dining experience, all overlooking Spanish Bay. Open daily for breakfast 6:30–11am, lunch 11:30am–5pm, dinner 5:30–10pm. Stave Wine Cellar at Spanish Bay The Inn at Spanish Bay, 2700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining A combined wine lounge and retail shop, Stave Wine Cellar is a luxurious yet casual space that is ideal for special wine dinners or gathering with friends and colleagues. You can pair varietals by the glass with a menu of cheese and charcuterie plates. In addition to nearly 30 wines and eight craft beers by the glass, Stave has more than 200 wines for purchase by the bottle, including a wide selection of coveted bottles. A knowledgeable staff, including certified sommeliers are on-hand. Open Tu–Sa 2–10pm, Su–M 2–7pm.

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Sticks The Inn at Spanish Bay 2700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Sticks is the perfect place for seasonally diverse California cuisine in a lively sports bar atmosphere. Savor a tasty meal, a cold draft beer, specialty cocktail or one of the many appetizers, while enjoying sports on flat-screen TVs. Outside on the patio, enjoy seating next to a fire pit while soaking up gorgeous views of The Links at Spanish Bay and the Pacific Ocean along with nightly bagpiper music. Ask about specials and new menu additions. Open daily 6am–9pm. Stillwater Bar & Grill The Lodge at Pebble Beach, 1700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining Stillwater Bar & Grill prides itself in offering the freshest and most flavorful in sustainable seafood and organic produce. Whether it’s breakfast, lunch or dinner—or Stillwater’s famous Sunday Brunch—the menus are sure to delight. Shellfish lovers will marvel at the bountiful seafood tank, while those who prefer turf to surf can choose from a variety of meaty options. Each of these delectable feasts is enhanced by fantastic views of Carmel Bay and the 18th hole of Pebble Beach Golf Links. Open daily 7am–10pm. The Tap Room The Lodge at Pebble Beach, 1700 17-Mile Drive 866.543.9318 • www.pebblebeach.com/dining The Tap Room is more than a legendary 19th hole with an outstanding selection of draft and bottled beers, vintage wines and top quality spirits. It’s also a world-class steakhouse serving up hearty all-American fare, from burgers to prime rib to filet mignon. Renowned for its extensive collection of prized golf memorabilia, The Tap Room is a comfortable and inviting place for watching televised sporting events or recounting your successes on the courses of Pebble Beach. Open daily 11am–12am.

SAN JUAN BAUTISTA Vertigo Coffee Roasters 81 Fourth Street 831.623.9533 • www.vertigocoffee.com Artisanal coffee roasted on site as well as local craft beers, wood-fired pizzas, brunch items plus pan dulce from El Nopal bakery in Hollister have made Vertigo a locals’ favorite as well as a great find for visitors en route to the San Juan Mission, Pinnacles or other area attractions. Open M–Sa 7am–6pm, Su 8am–6pm.

SANTA CRUZ 515 Kitchen & Cocktails 515 Cedar Street 831.425.5051 • www.515santacruz.com There’s nothing quite like rooftop dining—the expanse, the view, the feeling of being high above. In Santa Cruz, there’s no better place than multi-level 515 Kitchen & Cocktails to sip on an astounding cocktail with a witty name and nosh on inventive small plates while gazing down at Cedar Street, especially following the Wednesday farmers’ market, when there is unmatched hustle and bustle. You’ll even find some of that produce on your plate, seasonally crafted by chef Paul Queen, as well as in your glass, courtesy of bar manager Ethan Samuels. But if the outdoor vantage point feels too exposed, any of the cozy nooks or barstools upstairs, or calming tablescapes downstairs are sure to suit your mood. Open M–Tu 5pm–12am, W–F 5pm–1:30am, Sa 3pm–1:30am, Su 3pm–12am.

Tasting Room @ the Old Sash Mill Open Daily 12-5 pm (831)458-5030 Visit our new site:

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Alderwood 155 Walnut Avenue 831.555.0109 • www.alderwoodsantacruz.com Slated to open this fall, Alderwood is a neighborhood oyster bar and restaurant for people looking for a fun and friendly night on the town. Its emphasis is on cocktails and beef, with a wide variety of steaks cooked over the wood-fired grill. Partner and chef Jeffrey Wall—an Iowa native and previously opening chef at Atlanta’s top-rated Kimball House farm-totable restaurant—believes in local sourcing and plans to make good use of the downtown Santa Cruz farmers’ market, practically across the street. Open T–Su 4pm–close, Happy Hour 4–7pm. an epicurious lifestyle 104 Bronson Street, Suite 13 831.588.7772 • www.anepicuriouslifestyle.com An event-based commercial kitchen and dining space in a carefully curated warehouse in the historic Seabright Cannery building, an epicurious lifestyle is available for unique private events and hosts a monthly, seasonal family-style dinner for 20 that is open to the public. Other public events also have a limited number of tickets; check the website for future dates and to sign up for email invites. Assembly 1108 Pacific Avenue 831.824.6100 • www.assembly.restaurant This full-service restaurant offers rustic California cuisine based on local, seasonal and sustainably sourced ingredients. Under the direction of founder Kendra Baker and beverage director Zane Griffin, satisfying food pairs with an intriguing selection of craft beers, wines and cocktails. Natural light in daytime and the soft glow of copper accents at night bathe community

use today. reuse tomorrow. shop. The Habitat ReStore donate. is a good deal for you, volunteer. your community and the environment. Every purchase helps fund Habitat’s mission. habitatmontereybay.org/restore

store locations

719 Swift St Santa Cruz (831) 824-4704

4230 Gigling Rd Seaside (831) 272-4830

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tables and comfortable nooks accommodating parties of all sizes. Open for lunch weekdays 11:30am, dinner W–Su until late, brunch 10am Sa–Su, closed M–Tu.

Drink well. Live well. Stockwell.

Charlie Hong Kong 1141 Soquel Avenue 831.426.5664 • www.charliehongkong.com Charlie Hong Kong has been providing the Santa Cruz community with healthy, sustainable, affordable and high-quality food since 1998. The colorful, casual eatery’s delicious fusion of Southeast Asian influences and the Central Coast’s local organic produce has made it an inclusive, family-friendly, neighborhood favorite. Its slogan is “love your body, eat organic,” and its cuisine is proof that fast food can be good for you. All signature dishes are vegan with the option to add meat or fish. Gluten-free modifications available. Dog friendly. Open daily 11am–11pm.

Laílí 101B Cooper Street 831.423.4545 • www.lailirestaurant.com Exotic flavors of the Silk Road are served in a stylish dining room decorated in eggplant and pistachio colors and on a hidden candlelit patio. Locals rave about Laílí’s homemade naan served warm from the oven with a selection of Mediterranean dips. There is a wide variety of deliciously spiced vegetable dishes, organic whenever possible, and all meats are hormone free and free range. Open Tu–Su for lunch 11:30am–2:30pm, dinner 5–close. La Posta 538 Seabright Avenue 831.457.2782 • www.lapostarestaurant.com A cozy neighborhood bistro not far from the Santa Cruz yacht harbor, La Posta chef Katherine Stern prepares Northern Italian cuisine using local ingredients—some foraged and some grown on nearby organic farms. Charcuterie is house cured; pasta, bread, and gelati are made in-house, while the balance of the menu reflects whatever produce is freshest right now. A sister restaurant of Soif Restaurant and Wine Bar, La Posta

Tasting Room open Thursday-Sunday www.stockwellcellars.com | (831) 818.9075

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service marks and trade dress of Pebble Beach Company. Photo: Sherman Chu

Gabriella Cafe 910 Cedar Street 831.457.1677 • www.gabriellacafe.com One of the city’s most charming dining spots, Gabriella Café serves a California-Italian menu starring organic produce from local growers and the nearby farmers’ market, as well as humanely raised meat and sustainable seafood. An extensive wine list offers over 20 wines by the glass, including many by local winemakers. There is a candlelit patio and a cozy dining room that showcases the work of local artists. Look out for specials, like Oaxacan dishes served on Tuesday nights. Open for lunch M–F 11:30am–2pm, dinner daily 5:30–9pm, brunch Sa–Su 11:30am–2pm.

Santa Cruz Urban Winery

The Crow’s Nest 2218 E. Cliff Drive 831.476.4560 • www.crowsnest-santacruz.com A perfect spot to enjoy lunch or catch a sunset over the harbor, the nautical-themed Crow’s Nest is a Santa Cruz institution that never goes out of style. There’s always something happening, from free seasonal Thursday night beach parties to comedy nights and happy hours. Famous for its salad bar and housesmoked salmon, The Crow’s Nest is a member of Seafood Watch and is a certified green business. Open daily for breakfast 7:30am–11:30am; lunch M–F 11:30am–2:30pm and Sa–Su 11:30am–3pm; dinner M–F 5pm, Sa–Su 4:30pm.

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Introducing the new Roy’s Brunch Served each weekend, enjoy island inspiration and classic favorites with a side of sprawling ocean views. Located at The Inn at Spanish Bay • Reservations are recommended

pebblebeach.com (877) 724-1824 www.ediblemontereybay.com

also offers a great selection of wines. Open Tu–Th 5–9pm, F–Sa 5–9:30pm, Su 5–8:30pm, M closed. Pearl of the Ocean 736 Water Street 831.457.2350 • www.m.mainstreethub.com/pearloftheocean Award-winning chef/owner Ayoma Wilen goes beyond the expected traditional spice-infused dishes of Sri Lanka, creating locally inspired daily specials using fresh, organic produce from farmers’ market produce and sustainably harvested seafood. Customer favorites include butternut squash curry, crab curry and wild salmon curry. To round out the flavor experience, there is a dizzying array of sides, like coconut leek sambal and kale mallam. The warm colors, altars and blessings that decorate the space help guests get a sense of Sri Lanka’s world-class hospitality, culture and beauty. Open for lunch daily 11am– 2:30pm; dinner Su–Th 5–9pm and F–Sa 5–9:30pm. The Penny Ice Creamery 913 Cedar Street 831.204.2523 • www.thepennyicecreamery.com Lines out the front door of its converted Spanish bungalow are evidence of Penny’s popularity. All ice cream, including bases, is made from scratch on the premises using local organic ingredients when possible. Dozens of exotic flavors rotate seasonally, but two favorites are chocolate caramel sea salt and strawberry pink peppercorn. Open daily noon– 11pm. See also The Penny under Capitola. The Picnic Basket 125 Beach Street 831.427.9946 • www.thepicnicbasketsc.com Across the street from the main beach, owners of The Penny Ice Creamery have opened an alternative to boardwalk fast food. Sandwiches, organic salads, coffee and beer, all from local food artisans, and of course Penny’s popular ice cream, are all on offer to eat in or outside with your feet in the sand. Open daily 7am–4pm. Expanded hours some weekends and holidays. Expanded hours during summer.

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Rosie McCann’s 1220 Pacific Avenue 831.426.9930 • www.rosiemccanns.com No typical Irish pub, Rosie’s emphasizes organic, local ingredients in its traditional Irish dishes like lamb stew, shepherd’s pie, corned beef and cabbage and fish and chips, as well as its California specialties such as grassfed burgers, coriander wild salmon, salads and fish tacos. Expect dozens of beers on tap— including local selections. All desserts are made in house, so save room for the Guinness-Ghirardelli chocolate cake. Open M–F for lunch 11:30am–4pm, dinner 4–10pm. Open Sa–Su for brunch 9:30am– 2pm, dinner 2–10pm. Soif Restaurant and Wine Bar 105 Walnut Avenue 831.423.2020 • www.soifwine.com Inspired by the offerings from local farmers and provisioners, Soif ’s cuisine shows California flair with super, seasonal dishes, all paired with local and exotic wines (and a great burger!). A cozy, new bar offers cocktails in addition to the best wine selection in town. The bottle shop next door provides a worldclass selection of wines and a welcoming seating area for sipping and tasting. Raw oysters and live jazz every Monday. Open Su–Th 5–9pm, F–Sa 5–10pm. Wine bar opens noon Tu–Sa, 5pm Su–M. West End Tap & Kitchen 334D Ingalls Street • 831.471.8115 www.westendtap.com At West End, perfect for any parent who is looking for a happy hour to satisfy the whole family, adults and kids alike can’t get enough of the duck fat popcorn, fried calamari and flatbread pizzas. A diverse, season-driven menu with offerings like grilled ribeye with a tomatillo relish and sweet roasted corn cake, and an even longer list of craft beers, ciders and wine options make West End a Westside staple. The outdoor patio is perfect for people watching amidst the bustling Swift Street Courtyard. Open Su–Th 11:30am–9:30pm, F–Sa 11:30pm–10pm.

SCOTTS VALLEY Kitchen Table/1440 Multiversity 800 Bethany Drive 844.544.1440 • www.1440.org 1440 is the number of minutes in each day, and at the new learning destination in Scotts Valley, 1440 represents the many opportunities there are to be mindful in this life we live. That philosophy certainly translates to the food we choose to eat, which makes the onsite Kitchen Table a wonderful canvas for showcasing the vibrant, healthful and delicious ingredients we have available locally. Chef Kenny Woods, who came here from Arizona to be part of this unique project, brings an intensive and enthusiastic culinary background to creating plant-based menus that change with every meal, every day, for the diverse, global community that gathers here. Registration for a 1440 program, personal getaway or special event is required to dine at Kitchen Table.

Barbecue and Beer Summer Pairings Come in for good eats and pairings from the best that our local brewers and farmers have to offer. Check Facebook for dates and specifics.

SEASIDE Gusto 1901 Fremont Boulevard 831.899.5825 • www.gustopizzeriapasta.com Gusto owner Denis Boaro, owner of Carmel’s Basil Seasonal Dining and a native of Northern Italy, named the restaurant for the Italian word for taste and his enthusiasm for delivering delicious authentic Italian food and great service that can be seen in the happy faces of his diners. The bright red-tiled, wood-fired oven just inside the entrance sets the restaurant’s festive tone, making you feel like you are in Italy. Gusto specializes in fresh pastas, pizzas, housemade mozzarella as well as unique desserts using the best quality ingredients and organic flours from Italy. Our team strives to support local organic farmers, foragers and fishermen bringing you fresh, tasty and sustainable ingredients. Open daily 11:30am–2:30pm, 4:30–9pm.

HOURS 11:30–9:00 Sunday - Thursday 11:30–9:30 Friday - Saturday Closed Mondays cremerhouse.com • 831-335-3976

The Meatery 1534 Fremont Boulevard 831.656.8810 • www.themeatery.us Meat-loving chef-owners Jason Balestrieri and Kevin Hincks have teamed up to create Monterey County’s first modern, artisanal butchery where in addition to selling cuts of sustainably and humanely raised meats and housemade charcuterie to bring home, they also offer deli sandwiches and other prepared foods to eat around a communal table right in the shop. Catering for any occasion also available. Open daily 11am–7pm.

WATSONVILLE Gizdich Ranch 55 Peckham Road 831.722.1056 • www.gizdich-ranch.com Visitors from great distances love this third-generation, family-run farm business that popularized the “pik-yorself ” experience just east of Watsonville’s Interlaken neighborhood. Tour the farm, pick fresh apples or berries or watch the action inside the juicepressing barn. No one leaves hungry if they spend time at the bakery-deli that pleases with its fresh pies, shortcakes and pastries, along with hearty sandwiches and box lunches. This family friendly experience is also a treat for kids, who will enjoy the wide-open spaces and the homemade popsicles. Open daily 9am–5pm.

Nourish the whole child by cultivating the individual’s capacity of head, heart, and hands. JOIN US for one of these events to learn more about the Santa Cruz Waldorf School:

• Parent-Child Classes • A Walk Through the Grades • A Morning in Early Childhood www.santacruzwaldorf.org | (831) 824-2161

www.ediblemontereybay.com

YOU WANT CUSTOMERS? YOU’LL WANT EMB. Edible Monterey Bay reaches a devoted readership of active local consumers who are passionate about supporting local businesses—especially ones that advertise in Edible Monterey Bay. “Every time I picked up Edible Monterey Bay I saw our customers and I knew that we needed to be in the same space,” says Mary Anne Carson, senior vice president, director of marketing and community relations at Santa Cruz County Bank, describing why she started advertising in EMB three years ago. “I think we share many of the same values as the businesses that advertise and are profiled in the magazine. Over the last few years, the crossover has grown tremendously.”

Average print run of 27,500 per issue x

2.8 adult readers = 77,000 print readers plus thousands more online.

95%

84% of readers say they are more apt to frequent a business because it advertises in EMB.

350+ strategic outlets across Monterey, Santa Cruz & San Benito counties.

Fast-growing and engaged social media followers and

of readers say they read the ads in EMB.

an e-newsletter with twice the open and click rates of the average media industry newsletter.

Our Readers Are Influential: 96.7% recommend products they like to people they know

Willing to pay more for quality: 93% say they will pay more for local, organic or humanely raised

Well Educated: 98% have had some college; 32% have a master’s or doctoral degree

Green: 99% say sustainable practices are important to them

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Monterey Bay CONTACT US: ads@ediblemontereybay.com or 831.298.7117 Source: Gfk MRI survey 2015; prior EMB Survey

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Loyal: 95.6% say Health Oriented: when they find a 97.4% say they look for healthier restaurant they food options like, they stick with it

Craft salts that bring the colors, tastes and aromas of Big Sur to you

AN EVENT BASED COMMERCIAL KITCHEN & DINING SPACE IN SANTA CRUZ

2018

U NF A R M TO

Find us at:

Quail & Olive Carmel Belle

bigsursalts.com

Open Farm Tours Sunday, Oct. 7th, 10- 4pm A FREE self-guided tour of 14 family owned farms Farm activities, u-picks, demos, farm animals, organic products Food & wine, music, homestead demos, kids activities & more! Tour map & registration at

Mobile Service

openfarmtours.com

We host a monthly, seasonal family-style dinner for 20 at our communal table and are available for unique private events.

“I get my local food news from Edible Monterey Bay's e-newsletter.”

—chef / proprietor Brad Briske, Home restaurant in Soquel

BOOK YOUR NEXT EVENT WITH US anepicuriouslifestyle.com

831.588.7772

Don’t Miss Out! Get The Scoop Every Tuesday! Sign up at TINYURL.COM/EMBSCOOPS or by emailing info@ediblemontereybay.com or calling 831.238.1217 www.ediblemontereybay.com

LAST CALL

NEPTUNE IN OPPOSITION Try this spicy drink when the season gets a little spooky By JESSE SCOTT Photography By Margaux Gibbons When I imagine a cocktail, I am hoping to create a mood, a feeling, an entire theme in just one glass. For this cocktail, I imagined something you would drink in a remote cabin in Big Sur in October, warmed and welcomed by the heat of the fire. The celestial giant Neptune, nearly four times the size of Earth, inspired the name for this drink. Every autumn it swings to its closest point to Earth in the entire year. But to the naked eye, the enormous and magnificent Neptune appears as merely one slightly brighter illumination in a star-strewn sky. On first impression, this cocktail seems easygoing, straightforward, merely a bit brighter than the rest. As you continue to enjoy, its flavors reveal themselves slowly, speaking to you in a sophisticated conversation sip by sip: subtle warm sweetness, brief underlying spice and then a mysterious exoticness you can’t quite put your finger on. Correctly made, cocktails should play more than a single note; there should be an entire symphony in every individual taste. To balance the tanginess of the blackberry in this cocktail, it needed some structure, so Venus Spirits Gin Blend No. 2 stepped in. Locally crafted in Santa Cruz in small quantities, Gin Blend No. 2 is aged in oak barrels, which add music of their own. It can’t all be left up to taste; the eyes need to be intrigued as well. You first need to drink it all in with your eyes and then your palate, which is where the distinctive color and garnishes of this recipe come in. Cocktails need to invite you and welcome you to try them with dear friends. For this one, I not only imagine the warm cabin fire, but sitting on a deck, gazing at the ocean while fog tucks Monterey Bay into its fall blanket. Wherever you serve it, I hope it conjures these scenes for you. Jesse Scott is a freelance writer who has created award-winning cocktails for more than 20 years in Monterey, California; Kauai, Hawaii; and his native Seattle, Washington. He writes about delicious things to drink, leisure-lifestyle activities and finance.

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NEPTUNE IN OPPOSITION 1½ ounces Venus Spirits Gin Blend No. 2 1½ ounces Fall Blackberry Purée ½ ounce lemon juice ¼ ounce lime juice 2 ounces Fever-Tree Ginger Beer Organic blackberries Fresh fennel frond In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine all ingredients except for the ginger beer. Shake until well incorporated. In a stemless wine glass or old-fashioned glass, strain contents over a sizable ice sphere. Float ginger beer and garnish with floating blackberries and fresh fennel frond. For Fall Blackberry Purée, please visit ediblemontereybay.com

Breakfast on the Bay Experience Schoonersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; newly renovated patio with sweeping views of the Monterey Bay. Now serving the most important meal of the day, complete with incredible vistas and unrivaled service. Start your day at Schooners! Enjoy Breakfast on Schooners Patio every Saturday and Sunday from 9am-11am

Reservations: 8 3 1 - 3 7 2- 2 6 2 8 | SchoonersMonterey.com Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa www.ediblemontereybay.com

Revival JOIN US in Carmel Valley at our fabulously refreshed Farm Stand Organic Café & Market for all things organic. Featuring a deliciously updated menu with an expanded organic salad bar, farm fresh organic produce, and yearround events in our certified organic gardens.

opening september 2018!

FOR UPDATES

7250 Carmel Valley Road · Carmel, CA 93923 · (831) 625-6219 66

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