Edible San Fernando Valley Fall/Holiday 2023

Raised With Care®

All natural pork, beef and lamb raised sustainably and humanely by a community of more than 600 independent family farmers and ranchers to produce the highest quality meat.

100% Certified Humane ®

No antibiotics or added hormones—EVER

No crates—EVER

Raised outdoors and in deeply bedded pens

100% vegetarian feeds

ADRIEL CHU

CHELSEA LOWE

BRENDA REES

CHRISTINA BERKE

Setting a sustainable table is the beginning of any holiday gathering. To learn how and why we set ours, see the story on page 18. Photo by Viktor Budnik.

This Page

Latkes aren’t just potatoes anymore. According to contributor Faye Levy, latkes can be made with any food if there is enough matzo meal to hold them together. Check out the options for this traditional holiday meal on page 12. Photo by Viktor Budnik.

EDIBLE Epistles

With this issue, we celebrate Edible San Fernando Valley magazine’s first anniversary. Fittingly, the traditional gift for this anniversary is paper. So you are holding our first-anniversary gift to you. Enjoy it. Savor it. Share it.

In the years ahead, we look forward to telling compelling stories of the people and businesses in the Valley. But for now, we settle into autumn, a warm-fuzzy season replete with earth tones, family and feasts. While most of the country is wearing bulky sweaters, we’re in shorts, T-shirts and sandals. That’s OK. We’re still all in when it comes to celebrating autumn in traditional ways. Menus veer from light salads to heartier fare. (Or hearty salads, as you’ll see with our 1-2-3 Salad on page 27.)

As we serve up feasts with all the trimmings and share them with friends and family, then afterward groan about how full we are, let us remember that not everyone is so lucky. Nearly 14% of Los Angeles County residents live in poverty.

Wonderful local organizations are working to end food insecurity. One of them is the San Fernando Valley group of Lasagna Love. In this issue, Brenda Rees introduces us to this nonprofit, where volunteer chefs deliver homemade lasagnas to families that request them. Lasagna! What a perfect meal to bring someone—classic, filling and comforting.

People can leave notes with their lasagna request. Ellen Klinenberg, volunteer leader of the San Fernando Valley area, told us one note said: “My 16-year-old daughter went to bed hungry last night.”

This crushes me; I’ll bet you too. Feeding people is my love language. When I volunteer, it’s usually with food-based organizations that work to end food insecurity. This year, I participated in National Lasagna Day by making a lasagna that was given to a hungry family. It felt good. And I hope the family enjoyed eating it as much as I did making it.

New Year’s resolutions are a season away, but now might be a good time to get involved with your favorite nonprofit working to help end food insecurity for local families.

Enjoy the season!

Sarene Wallace Managing Editor

As we enter this upcoming holiday season at what feels like light-speed, I encourage you to take a couple moments in each day to slow down and breathe in some sort of peace. When we turn our focus toward gratitude, it seems that even our food tastes better. On that note, I want to express our deep gratitude for the advertisers and contributors who make this magazine possible. Please join me during the holidays to support our local purveryors by buying gifts that support the mission of a local and sustainable community.

Together we can change the world!

Tami Chu Publisher

OUR MISSION: Currently in its second year, Edible San Fernando Valley has been founded to document and bring to life the interest in farmto-table, organic and natural foods, and to acknowledge the people and communities who feed and sustain us. We want to inspire readers to support and celebrate the growers, producers, chefs, food and beverage artisans and other food professionals in our community.

San Fernando Valley publisher, editor in chief Tami Chu managing editor

Sarene Wallace

copy editor

Doug Adrianson

design

Cheryl Angelina Koehler

contributors

Cyndi Bemel • Christina Berke

Adriel Chu • Faye Levy

Chelsee Lowe • Gail Jamentz

Brenda Rees

photographers

Cyndi Bemel • Viktor Budnik

Tami Chu • Brenda Rees

illustrators

Ramiah Chu

sales

Mary DiCesare mary@edibleventuracounty.com

subscriptions

EdibleSanFernandoValley.com info@ediblesfvalley.com

contact us

Edible San Fernando Valley 2470 Stearns St. #142 Simi Valley, CA 93063 805-622-9355 info@ediblesfvalley.com

Edible San Fernando Valley is published seasonally, four times a year. We are an advertising- and subscriber-supported publication, locally and independently owned and operated and a member of Edible Communities, Inc. Distribution is throughout the San Fernando Valley, Santa Clarita Valley and Pasadena and by subscription for $29 per year. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and let us know. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2023. All rights reserved.

HUMBLE WANTS AND NEEDS

Creating community is a honey of an approach to supporting small businesses

BY CHELSEE LOWE

For the past 11 years, Northridge’s Humble Bee Bakery & Cafe has tempted locals with organic homemade pastries (think blueberry scones, cinnamon rolls and cookies) and organic plated breakfasts, lunches and weekend brunches, made with locally sourced ingredients.

Top sellers include the eggs Benedict (fixings are piled atop freshly made English muffins) and the café’s signature “Panwich”—a giant fluffy pancake folded around turkey sausage patties and over-easy eggs and topped with a dollop of mascarpone cheese and julienned apples.

Everything is organic, fresh (nothing is fried) and diners can sense the love that goes into all the details—it’s a lesson on how a restaurant doesn’t just survive, it thrives.

Owners James “Jim” (the chef) and Jessica Bonanno (the manager) procure as many ingredients for their farm-to-table dishes as possible from local growers and makers, with the weekly Encino Farmers Market being their primary shopping stop.

They buy most of their produce from John Givens Farm (Something Good) and stone fruit from G Farms, citrus from Sycamore Hill Ranch and potatoes from T & D Farms, to name a few.

Along with supporting local farms, the Bonannos foster community partnerships that serve everyone—the businesses and customers alike—and model the type of support and local connection in their café every day.

The farmers of Sycamore Hill Ranch in Fillmore were looking for a commercial kitchen to rent to expand their bottled juice line. “We recently came to an agreement to trade the use of the commercial kitchen space at [recently closed] Humble Bee Cocina for the citrus that we use at Humble Bee Cafe,” says Jessica Bonanno. “We have had a good relationship with the Hernandez family for years and are grateful for the symbiotic relationship.”

Another connection happened as the result of the couple purchasing hundreds of dollars’ worth of sourdough bread from market vendor chef Lance Toro of Wantz & Kneads. Toro’s bakery has been selling at local markets since 2021.

Their parallel experiences as chefs made Jim Bonanno and Toro fast friends, to the point that one day late last year, Toro shared that he might have to close up his shop. His rent in a Van Nuys industrial neighborhood was sky-high, and he wasn’t making ends meet despite an incredible product and the wildly long hours he was putting in.

Bonanno did some fast thinking. He offered Toro kitchen space at Humble Bee—a “roommate situation” that they both say is working well.

“He saved my business singlehandedly,” Toro says. “He threw me a lifeline, and that gave me an opportunity to keep doing what I love.”

At 58, Toro has decades of LA kitchen stories to tell. He climbed his way to a chef title by the age of 25 by cooking at the Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel, then the Jonathan Club in downtown. Later he helmed Sherman Oaks hotspot Le Café, adjacent jazz club The Room Upstairs, where Alex Trebek or Richard Pryor might stop in for a drink.

“I also won the national chef challenge championship at the World Food Championship in 2015,” he says.

He eventually pivoted and became a private chef; he spent years curating meals for the likes of singer Christina Aguilera, A&M co-founder Jerry Moss and producer Jerry Bruckheimer, among others.

Ultimately, it left him feeling put through the wringer. “In the back of my head, I knew I wanted to open a bakery,” says Toro.

Launched in 2019, Wantz & Kneads is the self-taught chef’s realized dream. Partner Jennifer Newhart came up with the name and runs the back end of the business. The baked goods are made by “an army of one.”

Toro works into the wee hours in the Humble Bee kitchen (since the café only serves breakfast and lunch, it’s a perfect puzzle in terms of schedule), making about 16 sourdough boules at a time in a rainbow of Le Creuset Dutch ovens. He leaves traditional sourdough loaves, made with just flour, salt and water, for the Bonanno’s staff to use and a few to sell.

He sells the rest of his goods at the Thousand Oaks and Ventura farmers’ markets, where he consistently sells out. Among the items

Above: Humble Bee Bakery & Cafe owners Jim and Jessica Bonanno (pictured above at the restaurant with their youngest child and Wantz & Kneads owner Lance Toro, left) have found that community building and bread can go hand in hand. Toro rents space in their kitchen in the off hours and supplies much of the bread used in the café’s seasonal farm-fresh dishes.

you’ll find are jalapeño cheddar loaves, roasted garlic parmesan loaves and sandwich bread—all scored and beautiful to savor, both by sight and taste. Compound butters, cookie/brownie mashups called “crownies” and a rotating array of homemade soups.

For Jim Bonanno, the partnership with Toro dovetails nicely with the restaurant’s emphasis on community, and “trying to keep some semblance of that in a city where it feels like it’s getting lost,” he says.

“That’s where we like to put our money. We don’t have any large-company products because we’d rather support the community or vendors like us. Why give money to someone who already has it, when you could prop someone else up?” Jim Bonanno says.

By the way, the Bonannos are looking for more farmers and other small businesses to collaborate with.

Humble Bee Bakery & Cafe and Wantz & Kneads are located at 17321 Saticoy Street in Northridge. For more information, visit HelloHumbleBee.com and WantzAndKneads.com

Chelsee Lowe is a San Fernando Valley–based contributor who specializes in writing about food, travel, parenting, culture and design. When she needs a break, she goes on solo outings around the Valley for lattes or burritos.

“In the back of my head, I knew I wanted to open a bakery.”

—Lance Toro

EDIBLE Notables

A LITTLE DARLING

Schatzi Cafe in Agoura Hills prioritizes health and sustainability

BY AJA GOARE | PHOTO BY TAMI CHU

Every time Crissy Chapman, owner of Schatzi Cafe, serves a slice of pie, she’s reminded of her mother. “I say to myself, ‘See, Mama? Everyone loves your pie.’”

The recipe for Chapman’s apple pie, like so many other items on the menu of her young Agoura Hills café, originated with her late mother, Ursula Chapman. “My mom was from Germany and she was taught to bake with low sugar, full flavor,” says Chapman. “So that’s how I bake: reducing the sugar and using spices to let the main ingredient come through.”

The food at Schatzi’s is made with sustainability and health in mind. The daughter of a man who spent his years as an herbal nutritionist, Chapman is focused on preparing food that does more than satiate; she aims to nourish and leave people healthier.

“We offer vitamin and superfood boosts like turkey tail mushrooms, serotonin boosters like ashwagandha or anti-inflammatory herbs like Indian frankincense in all our smoothies,” she says. “And 95% of the ingredients in our food are organic and use local produce.”

So, what’s on the menu?

Depends on the day. While smoothies and the New York City–sourced bagels are staples, the rest is truly up to her customers. “I let the community dictate what I serve,” says Chapman, whose business’s name means “little darling” or “little treasure” in German, her mother’s pet name for her.

“I had one customer come in and ask for something I didn’t have. I told her, ‘I don’t have it right now, but I can.’ And she said, ‘You can do that?’ Yes, I can!”

Crafting new menu items, like the Schatzzle—a triple-decker stuffed waffle with fresh peaches on the inside and blueberry compote drizzled on top—is a delight for Chapman, who relishes the opportunity to try new ideas. She describes the dish as “healthy and insanely delicious.”

It’s a far cry from the day-to-day of her previous career, managing surgical clinics for 16 years. “No one’s life is on the line if I try something new here,” she jokes.

But in some ways, Chapman does view her service at the café as lifesaving. “I grew up knowing about health and the impacts of food,” she explains. “I don’t want pesticides or toxins on our produce. I know sugar feeds cancers and other illnesses, so I stay away from it.”

Both her parents died from cancer, which only heightened her awareness of the effects of diet on the body. She sources most of her ingredients from the Agoura Hills, Thousand Oaks and Calabasas farmers’ markets and even her garden, avoiding the industrialized produce

that tends to be treated with a multitude of chemicals designed to increase the product’s shelf life and defense against pests. “Aside from the bagels, we make everything ourselves here in house,” says Chapman.

Those bagels, which can be eaten as a sandwich, avocado toast or simply with cream cheese or hummus, are delivered each morning from New York City. Prior to opening the café in January, a bagel shop occupied this location and those customers continually came in asking Chapman if she would ever sell bagels. At first, the answer was no. But at the wishes of her patrons, she spoke with the owner of a neighboring jewelry business and learned she could have the real deal rush delivered. “Customers have told me that it is the water that makes the bagels taste so good,” she says with a laugh. Customers love it.

Each item on the menu is named for a song that bears some special meaning to Chapman and her family. The “Early Morning Rain” smoothie is named for the Gordon Lightfoot song as an ode to her father, Tony Chapman. She sang the song at her father’s funeral in 2020. Made with guava, mango, pineapple and banana, it reminds Chapman of her father’s commitment to healthy eating.

“When I was in my 20s living in Germany, my father would send me money to buy organic produce from the farmers’ market. It was that important to him,” she says.

Though neither of her parents got to see the influence they had on their daughter’s career, Chapman believes both would be proud. “My mom would just be tickled to see her recipes in an actual shop. She taught me how to make authentic food with a California—aka healthy—twist,” Chapman says.

Operating out of the Whizin Market Square, Chapman says the sense of community among fellow small businesses is empowering. “We’re all neighbors here and at home. We help each other succeed,” Chapman says. “The nice thing about going to work is that it’s so full of joy and creativity. I get to make the things here I always wanted in a bakery but never found.”

Schatzi Cafe

Whizin

Mall Shopping Center, Suite 105, Roadside Dr. Agoura Hills | Schatzi.cafe

Aja Goare is a San Fernando Valley–based food writer and editor who works with multiple Edible magazines. She and her husband, Dustin, love to travel the Valley looking for great eats. She’s also a child advocate, outdoor explorer and artist.

“My mom was from Germany and she was taught to bake with low sugar, full flavor, so that’s how I bake: reducing the sugar and using spices to let the main ingredient come through.”

—Crissy Chapman

WE LIKE VEGGIES A LATKE

BY FAYE LEVY

When autumn approaches, latkes—also known as potato pancakes—are on my mind. When I was growing up, latkes to our family and our friends meant small, flat savory cakes made of grated potatoes and served during Hanukkah. The latkes were accompanied by applesauce and, when there was no meat in our dinner, with sour cream, too. Since my parents kept a kosher household, meat and dairy were not served at the same meal.

My mother didn’t need to read a recipe when she wanted to make latkes. She would grab a few potatoes, an onion or two and a couple of eggs and quickly put the batter together. She would grate the potatoes and onions on a box grater and add the eggs, a spoonful of matzo meal or flour and a good pinch of salt and a little pepper. The batter was ready to be formed into cakes and fried in vegetable oil in a skillet. These days, latkes can mean much more than potato pancakes. My mother pointed out that you can make latkes out of any food, as long as you add enough egg and matzo meal or flour to hold them together, and salt and pepper. Taking advantage of the bounty of our local markets, we enjoyed preparing latkes from a variety of vegetables, including corn, pumpkin, spinach, cauliflower, sweet potatoes and zucchini.

Now I often use olive oil to fry my latkes and I also vary the accompaniments. With zucchini latkes, for example, I serve yogurt flavored with garlic and mint. With corn latkes, I serve olives, diced tomatoes, avocado, sliced green onions, cilantro, yogurt and hot sauce.

To make pumpkin or hard-shelled-squash latkes, I usually opt for kabocha squash, which has a rich, sweet-potato-like flavor and texture. Butternut squash or specialty squashes like carnival squash are also good. I bake or microwave the squash until it’s tender, scoop out the flesh and mash it to use in the latke batter.

To accompany squash latkes, I like to make apple chutney. Whenever I get Hidden Rose apples, which are pink-fleshed, I use them to give my chutney a rosy hue.

I sometimes make potato latkes with grated potatoes and sometimes with mashed cooked potatoes. Since potatoes originated in Peru, I occasionally serve potato latkes with Peruvian yellow pepper cheese sauce, a favorite accompaniment for potatoes that my husband and I first tasted in Lima.

Unlike the usual cheese sauce made with grated cheese, Peruvian cheese sauce is made with queso fresco, or fresh cheese.

For those who hesitate to make latkes because they don’t want to be standing at the stove frying them during a party, here’s a trick that I learned from my mother: Fry the latkes a day ahead and refrigerate them, or even a week ahead and freeze them.

Reheat refrigerated latkes on a baking sheet in a 450°F pre-heated oven for about 5 minutes. Watch them carefully, as their edges burn easily. For frozen latkes, put them on a baking sheet and let them thaw in the refrigerator or at room temperature. Because they are thin, they thaw quickly. You can then reheat them the same way as refrigerated latkes.

Enjoy the fall vegetables in the following latkes, or create your own vegetable pancakes. I’d be glad to know how you made them.

Faye Levy is the author of 23 cookbooks, including 1,000 Jewish Recipes and the award-winning Faye Levy’s International Vegetable Cookbook. She makes her home in the San Fernando Valley.

CORN LATKES

These latkes are studded with whole corn kernels and diced sweet red pepper. Serve them with a variety of toppings and, if you like, with hot sauce.

Chef’s Tip: Using thawed frozen corn kernels makes these latkes quick and easy to prepare. If using fresh corn, simmer kernels in a little water for 1–2 minutes, until tender, and drain.

Makes about 14 small cakes, 3 or 4 servings

1 pound package frozen corn kernels (3⅓ cups), thawed

½ cup finely diced red bell pepper

2 green onions, white and green parts, chopped (¼ cup)

3 tablespoons chopped cilantro or Italian parsley

¼ teaspoon dried oregano

¼ teaspoon salt, or more to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste

Pinch of cayenne pepper

¼ cup all-purpose flour

1 large egg, plus 1 large egg white

¼ cup olive oil (for frying), more if needed

Toppings:

Plain yogurt or sour cream

Finely diced ripe tomatoes

Chopped green onions

Chopped cilantro or Italian parsley

Diced or sliced avocado

Whole pitted or sliced olives

Purée ¾ cup thawed corn in a food processor or mini food processor; a few small pieces may remain. Transfer to a large bowl. Add diced red pepper, green onions, cilantro, oregano, salt, pepper, cayenne, flour and the remaining corn kernels. Mix well. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add egg and egg white; mix well.

If you like, preheat oven to 250°F to keep latkes warm. Line a plate with paper towels. Set out topping ingredients in small serving bowls.

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a heavy nonstick skillet over medium heat until hot; a bit of batter added to pan oil should sizzle. For each latke, spoon 2 heaping tablespoons of corn mixture into pan. Flatten pancakes slightly with back of a spoon to 2½-inch rounds, pressing to compact them. Add more latkes to pan, leaving room to turn them over.

Fry latkes until golden brown on bottom, about 3 minutes. Turn very carefully with 2 pancake turners. Fry second side for about 2 minutes. Transfer to paper-towel-lined plate. Make more latkes from remaining batter.

When necessary, add a little more oil to pan and heat it before frying a new batch. Stir mixture before frying each new batch. Reduce heat if latkes brown too fast. Serve hot, warm or room temperature, with toppings.

Photo by Tami Chu

MINI KABOCHA SQUASH LATKES

with Cranberry Apple Chutney

These sweet and savory latkes are delicious with spiced cranberry apple chutney, which gains flavor and color from dried cranberries. The easiest way to prepare kabocha squash is to cook it whole so that this hard-shelled squash becomes easy to cut. Cook it by microwaving, boiling in water, steaming or roasting; if microwaving or roasting, pierce it first several times with a sharp knife. Cook the squash until very tender when pierced with a fork.

Chef’s Note: Make chutney before frying the latkes. Pink-fleshed Hidden Rose apples will give the chutney a delicate pink hue.

Makes about 20 to 24 mini latkes, 4 to 6 servings

1 kabocha squash, about 3 pounds

½ cup semolina

1 large egg

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon paprika

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

½ teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

Pinch of cayenne pepper

⅓ cup vegetable oil, such as sunflower, grapeseed or canola oil (for frying), more if needed

Mint sprigs (optional garnish)

Chunky Spiced Cranberry Apple Chutney (recipe opposite)

Yogurt or sour cream (optional)

Wash the squash and prick it with a fork. Bake the whole squash at 350° until tender. Halve cooked squash and remove seeds and fibers. Scoop out meat with a spoon and put it in a large bowl. Using a potato masher, mash squash meat to a purée; a few small chunks might remain.

Measure 2½ cups purée and return to bowl. Add semolina, egg, salt and spices; mix well.

If you like, preheat oven to 250°F to keep latkes warm. Line a plate with paper towels.

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a medium or mediumlarge nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Take 1 heaping tablespoon batter, push it off spoon with a rubber spatula into hot oil and gently flatten and smooth the pancake with bottom of spoon. Add more pancakes to skillet, leaving room to turn them over. Fry latkes about 2 minutes, or until golden brown on bottom. Turn them carefully using 2 pancake turners. Fry second side until golden. Transfer to a lined plate. Make more latkes from remaining batter.

Serve hot on a platter garnished with mint sprigs; accompany with cranberry apple chutney and yogurt.

Chunky Spiced Cranberry Apple Chutney

Choose sweet-tart apples such as Jonagold, Braeburn, Fuji or Pink Lady or pink-fleshed apples like Hidden Rose

Makes 3 cups

1 tablespoon vegetable oil, such as sunflower, grapeseed or canola

1 tablespoon minced ginger root

2 pounds sweet-tart apples (about 5 or 6), peeled, halved, cored and diced

⅛ teaspoon ground cloves, or to taste

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon sugar, or to taste

½ cup water

⅔ cup dried cranberries

Heat oil in a sauté pan or a wide medium-large saucepan over low heat. Add ginger root and sauté, stirring often, for 2 minutes. Add diced apples and cook, stirring often, for 1 minute.

Add cloves, cinnamon, sugar, water and cranberries. Stir and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over mediumlow heat, stirring occasionally, until apples are tender and water is absorbed, about 15 to 20 minutes; add more water during cooking if pan becomes dry. Taste, and add more sugar if you like. Serve warm, room temperature or cold.

Photo by Tami Chu

POTATO LATKES WITH PERUVIAN YELLOW PEPPER CHEESE SAUCE

You can refrigerate the fried latkes overnight. Reheat them in 1 layer on a cookie sheet in a 450°F oven for about 5 minutes.

Makes 4 or 5 appetizer servings

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

1¼ to 1⅓ pounds russet potatoes (about 3 or 4)

1 medium-large onion (about 8 ounces), peeled, halved

1 large egg

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil (for frying), more if needed

Yellow pepper cheese sauce, room temperature, plus extra pepper purée (see recipe)

15 black olives

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

3 hard-boiled eggs, quartered

To keep latkes warm, heat oven to 250°F. Have a baking sheet ready. Line a plate with paper towels.

Mix the flour, baking powder, salt and white pepper in a small bowl.

Peel potatoes. With a coarse grating or shredding disc of a food processor or large holes of a grater, grate the potatoes and onion, alternating potato and onion. Transfer mixture to a strainer. Squeeze it by handfuls, removing as much liquid as possible.

Transfer mixture to a bowl. Add egg; mix well. Add flour mixture; mix well.

Heat ½ cup oil in a deep, heavy large skillet over medium heat. For each latke, slide 1 heaping tablespoon of potato mixture into pan. Flatten it with back of a spoon to a pancake about 2½ inches in diameter. Add more pancakes without crowding.

Fry until crisp and golden brown, about 4 minutes per side; use 2 pancake turners to turn them carefully so oil doesn’t splatter. Transfer them to paper towels. Stir batter before frying each batch. Reduce heat if necessary so latkes don’t become too dark. Add more oil to the pan as needed; heat it before adding more latkes. Keep them warm in 1 layer on baking sheet in oven. If last few spoonfuls of batter are

watery, leave the liquid in the bowl to prevent splatters.

Before serving, pat latkes with paper towels. Serve hot or warm, with the sauce, extra pepper purée, olives, parsley and hard-boiled egg quarters.

Yellow Pepper Cheese Sauce

Frozen Peruvian yellow peppers called aji amarillo can be found at markets that carry South American ingredients.

Chef’s Note: To substitute ½ yellow bell pepper for the Peruvian peppers, remove the core and seeds. Broil pepper halves skin side up on foil until skin blackens in spots, about 5 minutes. Enclose pepper in foil. Let cool. Peel with paring knife. Purée with oil, following first paragraph of instructions; add hot pepper sauce to taste.

Makes about 1 cup

2 frozen Peruvian yellow peppers (scant 3 ounces), thawed, halved, seeds and membranes removed

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

⅓ cup chopped onion

1 garlic clove, chopped (1 teaspoon)

1 cup (packed) queso fresco (fresh Mexican cheese) (about 5.3 ounces), cut in small pieces

⅓-½ cup whole milk

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Pepper purée: Cut peppers in pieces. In blender, purée peppers with 1 tablespoon oil to a paste. Transfer to a bowl; don’t wash blender yet.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add onion and cook until softened but not brown, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and heat for a few seconds, stirring. Cool mixture in a bowl. Transfer onion mixture to blender. Add cheese, ⅓ cup milk and 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon pepper purée. Blend until smooth. If sauce is too thick, gradually blend in more milk at low speed. Scrape down blender sides. Blend sauce again until smooth. Add salt, pepper and more pepper purée to taste. Serve at room temperature.

Reserve remaining pepper purée for serving separately.

Photo by Viktor Budnick

Serving Up SUSTAINABILITY

Earth-friendly décor lightens your celebration’s impact on the planet

BY ADRIEL CHU | PHOTOS BY VIKTOR BUDNIK

This is it: the year you’ve finally decided to fully embrace environmental sustainability in your holiday celebration. You’ve sourced every ingredient for your feast from local farms, down to the chicken in the duck in the turkey. There’s nothing more you could possibly do to increase your sustainability score, right?

Just to be sure, you check Pinterest one last time, scrolling through endless aesthetic imagery for any ideas to make your sustaina-table really complete and ready for guests. Then it hits you, just as your finger hovers over a lovely beige arrangement. The table is set with a burlap tablecloth and placemats made of wooden slats that don’t fit your earth-friendly approach at all. That’s it, you realize, the last ingredient isn’t food at all, but the table itself!

We set the table with our heirloom glasses and utensils, adding ceramic bowls and plates made by Granada Hills–based Creative Fire Kiln & Kitchen and fair trade and sustainable Cypress Tree napkins and table runner from Ten Thousand Villages in Pasadena. The regeneratively grown fresh and dried greenery came from Hungry Gardens Urban Farm in Sun Valley.

The quest for the most sustaina-table family dinner has begun, but where do you start? The base, of course.

It’s always been difficult to find a tablecloth and napkins to match your giant “Live, Laugh, Love” mural and paisley accent wallpaper, but luckily there are several options available in cotton, bamboo, linen, hemp and even recycled plastic.

Perhaps a tablecloth isn’t to your taste, though. Linen and organic cotton table runners and placemats are also fantastic options to consider; they don’t fade as fast as those made of polyester or nylon. They won’t shed microplastics, either. There are plenty of local markets you could check, and you know the ladies in the sewing circle would love to help you out.

Having picked out a nice base layer, your eyes are drawn to the next element: napkins. Napkins made of natural fibers like linen, bamboo or cotton, like tablecloths, are reusable and wash very well. They can be folded into fancy designs to impress guests and absorb much more over their lifetime than paper napkins.

Hosting a big family gathering poses a challenge for your sustaina-table score, with all those extra table settings. While paper plates are convenient and disposable, they end up in the landfill because stains prevent them from being recycled. So you’ll need to buy more dishes.

You’ve been meaning to get a new set of matching dinnerware anyway. Besides, you’ll be able to reuse them the next time you host a gathering.

Ceramic plates, bowls and cups are affordable, and you can find a local artist who works in ceramics that you can buy from, with unique designs and lovely glaze patterns. Stoneware is also an elegant choice and non-toxic without any kind of special treatment while adding a contemporary-rustic element.

When it comes to centerpieces, your options are nigh-unlimited. You could go for a living centerpiece, perhaps a small arrangement of succulents or herbs that need little-to-no maintenance that can be moved to a sunny window while not in use.

The thought is nice, but you might feel a bouquet of cut flowers fits the theme of your dining room better. You don’t need a centerpiece for your daily life, just for the occasion (and for the ’gram). While more than 75% of all wholesale flowers in the U.S. are imported, yours don’t have to be! Seek out local growers who may have more diversity in their flower selection than most grocery stores, depending on the season.

Finally, with your table set and your sustainability score as high as you could possibly push it, you can kick back and relax as you wait for your guests to arrive.

But, you think as your eyes alight on the curtains in your living room, one more scroll on Pinterest wouldn’t hurt.

DECORATING NATURALLY

BY GAIL E. JAMENTZ

A sustainable fall tablescape is a beautiful way to elevate your holiday dining by bringing in texture, unexpected color, scent and beauty. When helping clients plan their fall entertaining décor, we encourage them to turn to nature and try an unexpected color palette, rather than the ubiquitous amber, yellow and brown.

Table topping ideas

Create a stunning fall holiday table that can carry into December by arranging an eye-catching display of green and crème heirloom pumpkins in varying sizes, accented by soft green eucalyptus leaves, white roses, seasonal berries, acorns and glowing gold candles. The sophisticated palette of crème, white, green and gold creates an elegant aesthetic that complements most holiday dinnerware and doesn’t compete with the vibrant colors of the evening’s meal.

If you prefer a centerpiece using traditional fall hues, consider selecting natural elements that add colors complementary to orange, such as blue or purple. This combination of warm and cool colors will add visual interest to your table arrangement and can be as simple as incorporating blue hydrangeas, purple dahlias or fragrant lavender stems with seasonal pumpkins, gourds and greenery.

Winter produce can also add an element of the unexpected with pomegranates, persimmons and artichokes being a few of our favorite picks for a fall holiday table.

And remember, you can show off a sustainable, eclectic aesthetic by using non-matching elements, like place settings, and using heirloom pieces instead of buying new ones.

Gail E. Jamentz is the principal of Soul Interiors Design, LLC, in Pasadena. She has a four-year UCLA interior design education and trained with the International WELL Building Institute. To learn more, visit SoulInteriorsDesign.com

Adriel Chu, 22-year-old, southern California artist and freelance writer, got her start illustrating for small online communities. She loves chickens and puns.

Shop Local Holiday Gift Guide

Shopping Locally Benefits Us All!

The San Fernando Valley and surrounding areas contain an extraordinary collection of artisans and creators that bring vibrancy to the region. Shopping these local purveyors helps our local economy, employs local people and helps keep friends, neighbors and families in business during these challenging times.

Like many of these, we are also a small locally owned business. Supporting our ad partners keeps us going and allows us to continue to share the stories and recipes that bring so many joy.

This holiday season we encourage you to support local businesses as much as possible. And tell them we sent you!

Scan the code for the clickable online version of this guide.

San Fernando Valley

A Taste of Ojai Cookbook/Flavors of the Valley 

Each cookbook created by Ojai chef Robin Goldstein contains dozens of diverse, mouthwatering, beautifully crafted and photographed recipes with a focus on nourishing local ingredients. Choose one, two or all four books to delight the foodie in your life with a gift that will last all year!

PrivateChefRobin.com/cookbooks

 Paradise Pantry

Known for pairing foods and experiences, Paradise Pantry offers unique gifts for everyone on your list. Choose from more than 400 cheeses, an expansive wine selection, specialty makers of jams, nut butters, and chocolates.

Not sure? Pair a Gift Certificate and let them choose their own! Costs vary. ParadisePantry.com

Don Francisco’s Coffee 

Give the gift of Don Francisco’s Coffee Club to everyone on your list. Their coffee subscription program is convenient, hassle- and worryfree, and keeps family and friends well-stocked of their favorite single origin coffee all season and all year long! Receive 20% off first order and 10% for subsequent orders. Subscribe now and give the gift that keeps on giving! Starting at $9 | DonFranciscos.com

 Creative Fire Kiln & Kitchen

Creative Fire Kiln & Kitchen specializes in producing small-batch artisanal hot sauces and handmade ceramic kitchen food prep items. Whether from soil or clay, the garden, the studio or the kitchen, “All good things come from Earth, Fire and Water.” $6-$18

CreativeFireKilnandKitchen.com | @creativefirekilnandkitchen

Random Acts of Breadness 

Hand-crafted artisan sourdough breads and chef-curated accoutrements make memorable gifts for any occasion. Breadness loaves are organic, glutenneutral, 3-day process, vegan and made with super-clean ingredients. Ranked #1 on Yelp for Best Bread in Burbank! $10–$200. Visit the bakery in Burbank or shop online at breadness.com.

Ten Thousand Villages Pasadena 

All products are handcrafted in developing countries all around the globe. Each item is Fair Trade, insuring no child labor and use of ethically sourced materials. There are unique one-of-a-kind items great for all kinds of gift giving this holiday season. Stop by the store in Pasadena or shop online. $16–$40 | TenThousandVillages.com/Pasadena

Epicurean Olive Oils 

Try Epicurean Ultra-Premium Extra Virgin Olive oil pure or fused/infused. Pair it with a traditionally aged Balsamic Vinegar for the health-conscious food lover in your life. Readymade gift sets make shopping easy. $15–20 | EpicureanOliveOils.com

Humble Bees Bakery and Cafe 

Humble Bee Hots wants to put the buzz in your day with its deliciously hot Habanero and Fresno’s Ghost hot sauces. Their hots provide a robust, full-bodied flavor with the kick that you crave. Lovingly crafted in small batches with the best local ingredients. Available online or in-store at Humble Bee Cafe. $9 | HelloHumbleBee.com

Bennett’s Honey 

Since Bennett’s Honey Farm harvested their first batch of Topanga Quality Honey, the priority has been the bees. Like a fine wine, natural honey gets its distinctive flavor from the flowers, and Bennett’s honey is produced in Ventura County, home of the best sage, orange blossom and wildflower fields in California. Prices start at $7. BennettHoney.com

Edible SFV Subscription 

And of course, saving our top pick for last, we think that a subscription to Edible San Fernando Valley magazine makes an excellent gift at any time of the year! We produce four print issues per year, full of seasonal recipes, helpful how-to tips, inspiring local stories and useful farm, food and drink resources. Each subscription helps us to continue to support and celebrate the local chefs, artisans and growers who make the Valley and surrounding areas an extraordinary place to live and eat. Send us an email and we’ll even make sure you have the latest issue to accompany your gift. $29 for one year (four issues).

EdibleSFValley.com/subscribe

FROM COLD CUTS TO COOL AND CUTE

As a child, Karreno Alexanyan spent many summers on his grandparents’ farm in Armenia. It was an escape from the city to spend more time with his grandparents, whom he loved dearly, he says. It was also a chance to get close to nature and a time for family lessons. Cows and chickens dotted the ranch, and there was plenty of work to be done

Alexanyan churned butter periodically and tried to help out around the garden as much as possible. He learned to fix things, and, perhaps most importantly, he learned to make cheese under the watchful eye of his grandmother.

“That was my first cheese experience, and I was very excited,” Alexanyan says. They usually made Armenian string cheese,”

The experiences he had while working with his grandparents sparked his deep-rooted love of farmfresh food and cooking.

He carried this interest when he immigrated to Los Angeles with his parents at age 13. While in high school he started working in banking and continued for nearly 15 years.

In need of a change, he quit his job and traveled for a year, exploring the United States and countries in Africa and Western Europe and taking cooking classes along the way. When he came here he felt creatively refreshed, and he started cooking for private events.

When the COVID pandemic began, though, parties were canceled and his work dried up. A client who had seen his work asked if Alexanyan could make a charcuterie board in a box. He’d never done so before, but that didn’t stop him from trying. That first box was straightforward and pandemic-safe, full of prepackaged nuts, cold cuts and cheese so the eaters could assemble their own bites.

Despite its simplicity, the box earned Alexanyan so many compliments that a business was born.

Officially launched in Burbank in December 2020, Char(a mashup of “charcuterie” and “cute”) doesn’t have a bricks-and-mortar location, but still continues to impress clients with custom charcuterie boards and boxes that incorporate sustainably sourced products and

“For me, it was very important to design boards and boxes that can be reused and recycled by customers. Reducing waste was at the core of working on this project, considering how much one-time use was being trashed during COVID. I didn’t want that for my brand,” he says.

Alexanyan may be self-taught, but one look at his work and you can see that he’s an artist.

Salami flowers are standard details in his landscapes, softly swirling in a sea of cheese, berries, nuts, dried fruits, crackers and more. Edible flowers add additional color and softness to make you take second and third glances at what he’s done. Boards that feed eight to 10 people are a top seller, as are individual charcuterie cones. Alexanyan builds custom charcuterie tables, too, often doing industry events, weddings, office events and more.

As talented as Alexanyan is at the cutting board—he works out of a home office and second kitchen—he’s equally skilled at marketing his creations. On social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram, Alexanyan is a social media maven who regularly records and shares tutorials with viewers.

It’s fascinating to see a charcuterie board business owner who practically gives away “secrets.” But generosity is not new for Alexanyan, who has always believed in helping others, and in building connections and community.

As a banker, he taught financial literacy classes at local high schools, and as the owner of Charqute, he donates 2% of net proceeds to local nonprofits—ranging from those that focus on education and arts and culture to poverty relief.

“It’s important that my craft is taught and expanded. I tell people, ‘Keep it simple and sophisticated, incorporate items that people already love, and don’t be scared.’”

—Karreno Alexanyan

The nonprofits he supports include organizations like Hayk for Our Heroes, Glendale Youth Alliance, Colfax Charter Elementary School, Children of Armenia Fund and Bridging the Borders, etc.

“I love and my community, so for me, it’s so important to give back,” says Alexanyan, who also gives back by using reusable materials that can be recycled and working to reduce the business’s carbon footprint. The business also participates in the Shopify Planet program to use carbon-neutral shipping options when possible.

“I feel like when you give back to the community, it comes back to you in different ways. I don’t need to count on it, it just does.”

And if you’d like to learn from Alexanyan firsthand, rather than via social media, check out Charqute’s monthly classes, which take place at the Burbank Chamber of Commerce. Lessons cover staple components of a charcuterie board; how to create interest with varying textures, colors and flavors; and how to combine it all in an artful and aesthetically pleasing manner.

But if you learn nothing else, Alexanyan hopes you will leave feeling confident enough to build your own boards at home.

“It’s important that my craft is taught and expanded,” Alexanyan says. “I tell people, ‘Keep it simple and sophisticated, incorporate items that people already love, and don’t be scared.’”

For the class schedule, check Charqute’s Instagram page (@charqute). You can also check out the cheese video series and blog at charqute.com.

Chelsee Lowe is a San Fernando Valley–based contributor who specializes in writing about food, travel, parenting, culture and design. When she needs a break, she goes on solo outings around the Valley for lattes or burritos.

DIY CHARCUTERIE BOARDS

Karreno Alexanyan, owner of Charqute, shares tips on how to build your own impressive charcuterie board. This skill will come in handy when you have family and friends over for the holidays and for occasions throughout the year.

The items listed are a general guideline of how the boards should be made, says Alexanyan.

USE STAPLE CHEESES: brie (double or triple cream, depending on your preference of thickness or creaminess), manchego (a versatile and mild Spanish cheese made with sheep milk) and cheddar, either domestic or from Ireland or England.

ADD FLAIR: Consider adding bries infused with mushrooms or hot peppers, and string cheese with caraway seeds, which Alexanyan buys at Super King in Glendale. Babybel-brand mini cheese rounds are great to work with—just peel and slice into half-moons for a fun shape. Or try Jarlsberg cheese, a smoked gouda, BellaVitano (a cheddar and Parmesan blend), or Nabulsi (a Middle Eastern cheese Alexanyan cuts and skewers with tomatoes and basil before drizzling with balsamic vinegar).

USE CURED MEATS: Prosciutto is a must. You can also use premade prosciutto-wrapped mozzarella cheese. Salami is another staple and soppressata is great, too.

INCORPORATE FRUIT: Use both fresh and dried fruits to add color and flavor. Blueberries, blackberries and strawberries when in season are bright, sweet additions; golden berries (also known as ground cherries) add a bit of tartness. Dried apricots and peaches pair nicely with cured meats. Korean barbecue almonds pair well with fresh figs and sour cherries.

REMEMBER NUTS: Bring in more texture and flavors by filling spaces on your board with various nuts, such as smoked almonds, pistachios and cashews.

COMPLETE IT WITH CRACKERS: Alexanyan’s top cracker choices include the long, organic sourdough crackers from Rustic Bakery, and some from La Panzanella, including those flavored with rosemary. Or consider including habanero pineapple chips, which add a nice crunch to cheeses.

END ON A SWEET NOTE: Add a bit of sweetness with dark chocolate and macaroons, and keep your eyes peeled for surprising seasonal treats. Small jars of honey and jam are also ideal board components.

1-2-3 SALAD

BY SARENE WALLACE | ILLUSTRATION BY RAMIAH CHU

Building a grain salad that’s infinitely adaptable is as easy as 1-2-3. Just follow this non-recipe recipe and you’ll create a refreshing and healthful grain salad that’s equally great as a side dish or light meal.

1. Start with a cooked grain

Use farro, barley or any other grain as your base for the salad. Quinoa is great for gluten-free diners.

2. Add bite-size veggies

Use any in-season vegetables that strike your fancy, even fruit. Just remember to balance crunchy with soft, sweet with savory, and make it pop with a mix of colors.

3. Toss with dressing

Vinaigrettes work well. To get you started, think about using a tart element like lemon or lime juice or vinegar, and balancing it with olive oil, nut oil or neutral-flavored oil. Add seasonings like cumin, za’atar, preserved lemon or thyme and salt and pepper.

Bonus: Garnishes

Top with a sprinkling of nuts, pumpkin seeds, cheese, chicken, herbs or a mixture of all of them.

LAYERS OF LOVE

Homemade lasagna helps take a bite out of local food insecurity

BY BRENDA REES

In her bright Calabasas kitchen, Ellen Klinenberg is snapping no-boil lasagna noodles in half and stirring a simmering pot of tomato sauce on the stove. Her moves are well choreographed with a familiar speed and grace. I’m in awe.

Klinenberg is the volunteer leader of the San Fernando Valley and Ventura County area for Lasagna Love, a national nonprofit of 45,000 volunteer home chefs who create honest-to-goodness home-cooked meals that are delivered in person to those in need.

Rhiannon Menn, a mom who wanted to make a difference in her community, started Lasagna Love at the beginning of the pandemic. The nonprofit now operates nationwide and in Canada and Australia. Since 2020, Lasagna Love volunteers have cooked and delivered more than 350,000 homemade lasagnas to people in need, feeding 1.5 million people, says Wendy Agudelo, a volunteer lasagna chef who handles publicity and communications for the organization.

Photos courtesy of Lasagna Love

WHY LASAGNA?

“It is one of America’s most famous comfort foods and one that feeds many, ultimately delivering a feeling akin to a warm hug when needed most,” says Agudelo. “Rhiannon also knew she could make more than one lasagna at a time to feed multiple families.”

The Lasagna Love process is simple: Requesters can log onto a website once a month and answer questions to determine their eligibility. Local leaders review the requests and match that person/family to a volunteer chef in the area who can make, bake and deliver a meal.

In the Valley, volunteer chefs are all ages, ranging from stay-at-home moms and dads to working professionals and retirees. Their cooking skills range from average to gourmet; the common denominator is that they enjoy providing a nourishing meal for others.

Klinenberg has been involved in the group since 2020 and typically makes lasagna twice a month. She found that cooking for others has helped her combat her empty nest syndrome after her three grown daughters left home. It’s also an easy way for her to give back to her community, she says.

“This smells wonderful!” I say, peering into a pot of sauce that bubbles with bright red tomato-y goodness. I’m here this morning to help Klinenberg make multiple trays of the classic layered cheese and noodle dish that she’ll deliver this afternoon to food-insecure families and individuals.

We are making meat lasagna with lots of veggies. Klinenberg is a big advocate for making her lasagnas as nutritious as possible, she tells me, especially if they’ll be eaten by kids who might not like vegetables. She grinds the vegetables into the sauce, a well-known mom trick that always works.

“I use whatever vegetables I have on hand,” she says, rattling off today’s additions of onions, spinach and zucchini. Fresh herbs and garlic are also part of the recipe.

“The meat sauce is separate,” she says, pointing to a big pot releasing its zesty aromas into the room. “I do this to make sure the ratios are right for the different pans of lasagna.”

Klinenberg likes her lasagnas to be “good and hearty.” One of the great aspects about Lasagna Love, she explains, is that you can make lasagnas as fancy or as basic as you want. It’s the chef’s choice. Lasagna Love offers many recipes to help chefs get started.

While Klinenberg humbly describes her lasagnas as simple, there is one ingredient that sets them apart: her homemade sauce. Every fall, Klinenberg heads to Underwood Family Farms in Moorpark and acquires large quantities of Roma tomatoes. Last year it was 75 pounds.

“Within a day or two, I had multiple pots on the stove cooking,” she explains. “I freeze the sauce in Ziploc [plastic] bags and use it throughout the year. Sure, I could buy jarred sauce, but I prefer this.”

NOODLING AROUND

San Fernando Valley Lasagna Love Stats

About 50

Meals delivered monthly to families in need. (This does not include North Valley Caring Services (NVCS), which receives lasagnas as needed.)

About 50

Volunteer chef families

200 Lasagnas made by San Fernando Valley volunteer chefs for NCVS in honor of National Lasagna Day in July.

Lasagna Love, an international nonprofit that provides homemade lasagnas to people in need, was founded at the beginning of the pandemic by Rhiannon Menn (pictured opposite with one of her children) and has fed more than 1.5 million people.

Today, Klinenberg will construct two large pans for families and a slew of individual trays for community clients such as the North Valley Caring Services, a nonprofit that serves residents in the Northeast San Fernando Valley area.

Klinenberg makes space on her kitchen island for an assembly line. Aluminum trays, bowls of cheese and dried noodles are nearby. First a layer of sauce, followed by noodles and then meat sauce. Klinenberg uses a small spatula to paint the noodles with ricotta cheese. Just the cheese, she says, no egg. The simpler the better. As the layers are piling, I ask if she made lasagna when her girls were young.

“No,” she says with a laugh. “It wasn’t part of my dinner repertoire. To be honest, I don’t really like lasagna that much.” She explains that her daughter Jamie at 8 years old ate lasagna for the first time at a friend’s house.

She asked her mom to make it at home. Of course, Klinenberg did, and says Jamie is still just as excited for lasagna today. “In fact, all three of my girls hope that I have ‘a match’ when they are home for a visit,” Klinenberg says. “Lasagna has come around full circle in this family.”

HOME-COOKED WITH LOVE

Lasagna Love chefs know only a little about the requesters but there can be interactions at drop-off, like a wave or brief conversation. “Sometimes requesters can feel embarrassed; it can be hard to ask for help,” explains Klinenberg.

The online notes that requesters write can be heartbreaking. One recent note said: “‘My 16-year-old daughter went to bed hungry last night.’ That tears you apart,” she says. “No child should go to bed hungry.”

As the area leader, Klinenberg wants to make sure that people don’t have to go without dinner. She is on the hunt for more chefs to help fill requests that grow more numerous every month. (I’m now one of those volunteers!)

Chefs can give as much time commitment as they want—and set the limits on how far they will drive to deliver. Her delivery drive is often during rush hour, but she takes advantage of sitting in traffic by talking to her daughters.

Once the large family lasagnas are baking, Klinenberg moves onto the individual trays. I’m in charge of painting the ricotta and we get a good rhythm going. We talk about how such a small act of kindness and comfort can be so meaningful.

Klinenberg sums it up: “We are a group of people who want to do something nice for someone who needs something nice done for them. Period.”

To learn more about volunteering for Lasagna Love or requesting a lasagna, visit LasagnaLove.org.

Ellen Klinenberg, a volunteer in Calabasas, works in her own kitchen to bake lasagnas for people in need. Decorations can add a creative touch of love.

Brenda Rees is a writer living in Eagle Rock. Originally from Minnesota, she loves to make—and eat—lasagna.

Photo by Brenda Rees

LASAGNA LOVE MEAT LASAGNA

This recipe has been adapted from one by Lasagna Love founder Rhiannon Menn. Serves 4–6 with leftovers

2–3 tablespoons olive oil

2 pounds ground beef, turkey or a mixture of both (Menn uses half and half)

½ cup finely chopped onion

1 large or 2 small cloves garlic

2 (14.5-ounce) cans crushed tomatoes (or 1 28-ounce can)

1 (24-ounce) jar of store-bought tomato sauce (or homemade)

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

⅓ cup water

1 tablespoon agave syrup

1½ teaspoons salt

Pepper, to taste

For assembly:

16 ounces ricotta cheese

1 egg

1 pound mozzarella cheese, grated

1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

1 zucchini, grated

1 yellow squash, grated

1 box no-boil lasagna noodles

In a large pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add beef and turkey, breaking into small bits as it cooks. Cook until meat is browned; drain off fat. Add onion and garlic and cook 2–3 minutes.

Add crushed tomatoes, tomato sauce, tomato paste and water. Mix thoroughly. Add agave syrup, salt and pepper. Simmer 1½ hours, stirring every 10–15 minutes to prevent the bottom from burning.

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Combine ricotta and egg. Mix mozzarella and Parmesan cheese. Reserve ⅓ of cheese mixture for topping. Add grated zucchini and yellow squash to the other ⅔.

In a 9-inch by 13-inch pan, add 1½ cups of sauce, 1 layer of noodles, ½ of the ricotta mixture and ½ of the cheese/veggie mixture. Repeat these layers once more.

Add another layer of 1½ cups of sauce, noodles, 1½ cups sauce and top with reserved mozzarella and Parmesan cheese.

Cover with foil, tenting so that it doesn’t stick to the cheese. Bake covered for 25 minutes; remove foil and bake another 20–30 minutes, or until the top is golden and a little bubbly.

LEGACY of LECHE

Reconnecting to my Chilean heritage through recipes

BY CHRISTINA BERKE

“It’s really quite simple,” my abuelita says to me over a video call years ago. “Start with just a bit of sugar… ”

Through Wi-Fi glitches that froze or sped up or disconnected us altogether, I leaned in closely to hear my grandmother pass on the recipes she loved growing up, and still eats today, in Chile. It wasn’t always like this.

Growing up in the Conejo Valley, over 5,500 miles from Santiago, I felt disconnected from my maternal side because they lived so far away. There wasn’t a Chilean community here. At home, my mother cooked typical American foods to help her assimilate to her new

culture. I ate tofu and pasta and baked potatoes—white foods that became staples as I moved out and cooked in my own kitchen. Nowadays food imported from Chile is much more common: grapes and wine, even dulce de leche. Though the 805 has diversified its restaurant culture more over the years, in the 1990s the most common ethnic foods available were Mexican and Indian. But burritos and curries, delicious as they are, weren’t the same as humitas and bistec.

With every burger and each spaghetti dish, I felt like I was silently

choosing my paternal side, reinforcing their importance and muting my mother’s. A large part of my identity was erased. It wasn’t until I was older that I heard stories (or maybe I was just finally paying attention) about my mother’s family meals back home of cazuela, sopaipilla and desserts of sticky manjar blanco. I wanted to know more: What did these foods taste like? Boiled milk for dessert didn’t sound very appealing, honestly. It was time to reconnect with my heritage, one bite at a time.

In 2005, I went to Santiago to visit my family. My cousins took me out to cafecitos (little cafés) where I tried lucuma (a tropical fruit known as Gold of the Incas that is now considered a superfood) and tres leches with meringue and alfajores. My taste buds started to unlock core memories. With each lick and every bite, I realized I’d eaten these foods before. My cake when I turned 2 was a torta panqueque, something I hadn’t eaten since I spent my birthday there in South America all those years ago.

Back in California, when I started learning how to cook, I wanted to feel more connected to my family history through the sense of taste. Slowly I began, recipe by recipe, to cook into my heritage, first from my mother’s handwritten cookbook that she’d brought with her when she first immigrated here, then through recipes online, a Chilean cookbook, and finally to the original source: my 95-year-old grandmother.

Opening my mother’s cookbook was like watching a wobbly home video, peering into a time capsule to reveal what my mother ate as I carefully turned the crisp pages. The first thing I noticed was her handwriting, so different from what I knew hers to be now. Bubbly and bright, it told me she must have been in her teens when she recorded these recipes. I translated them from Spanish to English; from metric to U.S.; from hard-to-get items to readily available ones that could substitute.

The first dish I made was brazo de reina—a Swiss roll with manjar (a caramel similar to its popular sister, dulce de leche, made by boiling a can of condensed milk)—named for its resemblance to a queen’s arm. My mother knew the dough got sticky; that as soon as it was out of the oven, you had to roll it delicately to shape it with a cheesecloth even though it was so hot it burned your fingers; to moisten the dough with a touch of brandy.

I was so proud of my first Chilean dish, but nervous if it would taste anything like what my mother had grown up enjoying. After it cooled, I sprinkled powdered sugar on top, cut the roll and served it. The gooey golden manjar oozed out, spilling onto the plate. It looked messy. Had I put in too much?

“Well, let’s see,” I said tentatively. We grabbed our forks and dug in. The plates were scraped clean in minutes.

“¡Que rico!” my mother said. “This tastes just like I remember it.” With that, I passed my first kitchen test.

Next on my list of recipes to make was a typical ensalada chilena—fresh, peeled tomatoes with thinly sliced onions drizzled with oil and vinegar—a classic staple of my mother’s childhood. To go with it, empanadas, like mini sandwiches of my youth, stuffed with browned meat, sautéed onions, hard-boiled egg with bright yolks crumbling into the mix, black olives and the surprising burst of sweet raisins. The crisp golden thick crust folded over a pocket of the savory mixture, so piping hot the steam fogged my face like a humid day in Santiago.

With each lick and every bite, I realized I’d eaten these foods before. My cake when I turned 2 was a torta panqueque, something I hadn’t eaten since I spent my birthday there in South America all those years ago.

My grandmother and I had started visiting weekly over video calls and I was excited to report my kitchen adventures. I showed her photos and described my dish, proudly stating that Mom gave her seal of approval.

“You’ll have to make it here for me one day, querida,” she said.

Soon I started asking her more—how accurate these published recipes were, and how she made her favorites, scrambling to write down the ones she knew by memory, trying to help her think of the name of the dish she was describing. Along with the measurements, I heard stories of love, friendship, and travel.

“Oye,” she said to me one day. “You know, I used to eat this with your grandfather when we went down to the farm.” He was the love of her life, and ever since he passed away a few years ago, eating foods that they enjoyed together evokes memories of 70 years of a joyful marriage.

Or sometimes: “You know yesterday I had the most incredible dish … But nothing is like the corvina I had at Pablo Neruda’s house …” She went on to share the parties she attended at the famous poet’s home, drinking pisco sours and lots of wine. While I couldn’t replicate a special stone oven with freshly caught seaside fish, I could find Chilean sea bass and put my own spin on it. Like looking at the same moon at night, I felt connected to her even through miles and countries apart.

My biggest ambition was to make my favorite cake: torta de mil hojas, or cake of a thousand layers, a dessert so rich, it’s sliced as thin as possible. But I was quickly deterred.

“It’s too labor-intensive,” my mother said. “And it won’t taste the same.”

Instead, I opted to make leche asada, a jiggly custard flan-like dish. To try to replicate it, my mother insisted, we had to get the best full-fat milk we could find. It wouldn’t be like the farm-fresh milk of her youth, still warm and frothy, but it would do.

“Is this right?” I asked my grandmother via video, tilting my phone near the saucepan.

“You have to cut open the vanilla first and scrape out the bean specks inside,” my grandmother taught me.

“And constantly monitor it so it doesn’t burn,” my mother added.

As I stirred the milk warming on the stovetop, memories stirred too. “Meme used to make this when we’d come home from school,” my mother said about her own grandmother. The power of this image, of her grandmother standing over the stove, wooden spoon scraping the pot, invoked my ancestors in a way I hadn’t been able to access before. I felt my emotions welling up. There is something sacred about consuming the same foods that my mother did, the foods that shaped her, that comforted her, that built her—and the generations of women before her.

Then came more traditional recipes over the seasons: mote con huesillo (dried peaches with wheatberries and spices), turrón de vino (whipped egg whites and wine), peras con vino (poached pears in wine), porotos granados (hearty bean and squash stew). I even attempt-

The brazo de reina, translated “queen’s arm,” is a Chilean rolled cake traditionally filled with manjara—caramel made from sweetened condensed milk—and served as a snack in the afternoon.

ed pastel de choclo, a dish similar to shepherd’s pie with beef, raisins, chicken with merkén (a spice from the indigenous Mapuche people) and a mashed corn top baked to chewy, crunchy perfection. But there was a hiccup.

“The corn has to be fresh,” my mother said. She was used to eating seasonally growing up.

“Can’t I just use this?” I pulled out a bag of frozen corn.

“Por favor,” she rolled her eyes. Instead, I waited until summer for fresh corn from la feria (farmers’ market) to have the best chance at making one of her favorite comfort foods from her childhood.

Of course, not all of the ingredients could be exactly the same, and I didn’t get to share what I made with my abuelita to see if it tasted bueno, but it felt like a bridge between our two worlds through food. Eating the same dishes my grandmother ate as a child, as did my mother, felt like I was honoring our heritage one meal at a time. The dishes all felt sacred to me, special not in their ingredients but the stories behind them. The legacy of cooking over the stove.

Any time I miss my grandmother, I call or message her, or open up the recipe book and start cooking. Even something simple like pan con palta (avocado toast) is accessible and pretty hard to mess up. (My grandmother was eating avocado toast well before it became an overpriced staple on every trendy hipster menu.)

We sit on video call with our cafecito helado, my grandmother, my mother and me, three generations of women united through food and family. Recently we even found a small Chilean restaurant in the Valley, where looking at the menu made us nostalgic for the foods we associated with the motherland. On dieciocho (a Chilean holiday) we pick up a dozen, warm them in the oven at home, and let the smells take us back to the calles of casas a continent away.

WHAT’S GROWIN’ ON IN FALL

Broccoli Rabe

Burdock

Cabbage

Celery

Corn

Dates

Kiwi

Ginger

Green Beans

Jicama

Mandarins

Mangos

Persimmons

Pomegranates

Raspberries

Strawberries

Sweet Potatoes

Hard Squashes

Tomatoes

Walnuts

HERBS

Cilantro

Lemongrass

Oregano

Rosemary

Sage

Thyme

OTHER Eggs

Fresh Flowers

Honey

Olives, Olive Oil

Potted Plants

Preserves

FROM THE SEA

Anchovies

Black Cod

Clams

Crabs

Halibut

Sardines

Squid

WHAT TO PLANT IN FALL

Or sometimes: “You know yesterday I had the most incredible dish … But nothing is like the corvina I had at Pablo Neruda’s house …” She went on to share the parties she attended at the famous poet’s home, drinking pisco sours and lots of wine.

Christina Berke is a writer and educator from the Conejo Valley. She’s currently working on a novel. Visit ChristinaBerke.com to learn more.

NEW FARMERS MARKETS PUT DOWN ROOTS

BY CYNDI BEMEL

Step into a world where vibrant produce and community spirit combine in a symphony of flavors and camaraderie. Let us introduce you to the freshest additions to the local food scene: Heart of the Canyons Farmers Market in Sunland and the new Altadena Neighborhood Farmers Market.

These two new certified farmers’ markets are modest in size but feature top-notch growers who prioritize sustainable practices, ensuring top-tier quality and nutritional value in their seasonal offerings. Many of these farmers pick their crops just before the market, emphasizing the dedication that goes into delivering food at its prime.

Cyndi Bemel possesses a diverse repertoire of storytelling abilities in various mediums, including photography, written and audio content. Her work has been published and exhibited on a national and international scale. As a Master Gardener and Master Food Preserver, Bemel exhibits a penchant for gastronomy, outdoor exploration and adventure-seeking.

Photo courtesy of Heart of the Canyon Farmers Market

HEART OF THE CANYONS FARMERS MARKET

In the heart of Sunland, Colleen Rau has woven her dreams into reality as the charismatic market manager of the Heart of the Canyons Saturday morning farmers’ market. As a savvy first-time entrepreneur and a market maestro, Rau’s journey has been one of growth, guided by the collective wisdom of seasoned market managers and Pastor Tim Salzarulo of Heart of the Canyons Church. The farmers’ market is affiliated with the church, “but we are a neutral market and don’t promote religion or politics,” says Rau, who’s enrolled in the market manager certification program from the California Alliance of Farmers’ Markets.

Rau was inspired to start the farmers’ market because there wasn’t one in the community and to support local farmers and businesses. “I think farmers’ markets are an important hub for the community to gather together,” she says.

Her curation of vendors fosters an environment where vendors complement rather than compete. The mix includes weekly vendors Lee’s Farm, Bonita Farms, Esqueda Farms and Harris Family Apiaries, among others. You can also get delicious food and hot and cold beverages to enjoy at the market or home, like Bug & Bear’s Cannoli, Bonjour Yogurt and more.

And shop for gifts at Nativo Art, showcasing handmade Guatemalan jewelry and clothing, and get information from the Los Angeles Department of Mental Health if you or a loved one is facing mental health challenges.

The mix isn’t complete without these vendors, which aren’t weekly: Menos Mas, offering refillable personal care and home products; and Learn with Ms. M., who brings educational materials and special guest Gordo the Madagascar Hissing Cockroach.

With a hitching post, a playground and a space to picnic, Heart of the Canyons offers a vibrant space for music, mingling and mirth.

Heart of the Canyons Farmers Market | 9666 Foothill Blvd., Lake View Terrace (Sunland) | Saturdays, 8am–noon

ALTADENA NEIGHBORHOOD FARMERS MARKET

Every Friday afternoon, market manager Melissa Farwell curates approximately 32 vendors and many one-of-a-kind products at the new Altadena Neighborhood Farmers Market. The market is a reboot of an earlier one that was held on Wednesdays.

There are picnic tables, grassy hills and places under shady sycamore trees to lay a blanket and enjoy a variety of prepared foods: sweet buns, dumplings, hummus, tamales, ice cream, macarons, coffee and homemade bread. There’s even fresh pasta, ravioli and pizza that’s flown in from Italy to take home.

Central to the Altadena market is Joe Meinhart, whose evolution from a trained chef to owner of The Little BBQ Company reflects the changing landscape of entrepreneurship. Tired of the conventional grind, he began selling his original barbecue recipes at the farmers’ market with the assistance of his daughter and wife.

Farmers’ markets aren’t solely the domain for growers—they are also playgrounds for artisan creators. Molly Ritter is the dynamic entrepreneur behind Thyme for Honey granola, whose product line includes seasonal flavors like pumpkin spice, orange pecan and espresso cacao.

In a world driven by the carbon footprint of global supply chains, these markets are beacons of sustainability, reminding us that some of life’s finest treasures are found close to home. Farmers’ markets are more than just places to buy groceries; they’re places to gather, learn and celebrate locally sourced delights and the magic of food that’s real, unadulterated and deeply nourishing.

Altadena Neighborhood Farmers Market | 587 W. Palm St., Altadena | Fridays, 4–8pm

Photos by Cyndi Belem

Photos courtesy of Heart of the Canyon Farmers Market

FARMERS’ MARKET GUIDE

TUESDAY

1 Glendale Gateway Certified Farmers’ Market

Tuesday 10am–2pm 801 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale SupportingArms.org/events.html

2 Hidden Hills Farmers’ Market (Exclusive Community Market)

Tuesday 2–6pm @ccfminc

3 Sherman Oaks Farmers’ Market

Tuesday 2–6pm 14006 Riverside Dr., Sherman Oaks RawInspiration.org

4 CSUN Farmers’ Market

Tuesday 10am–2pm 18111 Nordhoff, Northridge RawInspiration.org

5 Pasadena Certified Farmers’ Market

Tuesday 8am–noon

Villa Parke Center 363 E. Villa St. , Pasadena PasadenaFarmersMarket.org

WEDNESDAY

6 Canyon Country Farmers’ Market

Wednesday 4–8pm 18410 Sierra Hwy., Santa Clarita CanyonCountryFarmersMarket.com

7 The Oaks Farmers’ Market (Exclusive Community Market)

Wednesday 2–7pm (closed Oct. 28–Mar)

25464 Prado De Las Flores, Calabasas @ccfminc

8 Northridge Farmers’ Market and Family Festival

Wednesday 5–9pm (closed Oct. 28–Mar)

Northridge Fashion Center Mall

9301 Tampa Ave., Northridge

THURSDAY

11 South Pasadena Farmers’ Market

Thursday 4–8pm

920 Meridian Ave., South Pasadena SouthPasadenaFarmersMarket.org

12 Woodland Hills Kaiser Farmers’ Market

Thursday 9am–2pm

In Kaiser Medical Center

5601 De Soto Ave., Woodland Hills 310-383-3708

FRIDAY

13 Altadena Neighborhood Farmers Market

Friday 4–8pm 578 W. Palm St., Altadena @ccfminc

14 Monrovia Street Fair & Farmers’ Market

Friday 5–9pm 700 S. Myrtle Ave., Monrovia MonroviaStreetFairMarket.com

15 Olive View Medical Center

Certified Farmers’ Market

Friday 9am–2pm 14445 Olive View Dr., Sylmar SupportingArms.org/events.html

16 Reseda Farmers’ Market

Friday 4–8pm 8500 Reseda Blvd., Reseda @ccfminc

Northridge-Farmers-Market-and-Family-Festival.business.site

9 Panorama City Kaiser Farmers’ Market

Wednesday 9am–1:30pm

Kaiser Medical Center, 13652 Cantara St., Panorama City 310-383-3708

10 Warner Center Farmers’ Market

Wednesday 10am–2pm 5820 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills

NEW LOCATION

This list was updated October 2023 but as details do change, please contact the markets for the latest information.

If you know of another farmers’ market that is not listed, please let us know at info@ediblesfvalley.com.

FOR SAN FERNANDO VALLEY, SANTA CLARITA AND PASADENA

SATURDAY

17 Agoura Hills Farmers’ Market at Whizin Market Square

NEW HOURS: Saturday 10am–3pm

28914 Roadside Dr., Agoura Hills RawInspiration.org

18 Burbank Farmers’ Market

Saturday 8am–noon

101 N. Glenoaks Blvd., Burbank BurbankFarmersMarket.org

19 Heart of The Canyons

Farmers’ Market

Saturday 8am–noon

9666 Foothill Blvd., Sunland @hotcfarmersmarket

20 Main Street Canoga Park

Farmers’ Market

Saturday 9am–1:30pm

7248 Owensmouth Ave., Canoga Park CoastalPacificMarkets.com

21 La Cañada Flintridge

Farmers’ Market

Saturday 9am–1pm

1346 Foothill Blvd., La Cañada Flintridge RawInspiration.org

22 NoHo Farmers’ Market

Saturday 9:30am–2:30pm

5000 Colfax, North Hollywood FarmersMarketNorthHollywood.com

23 Old Town Calabasas

Farmers’ Market

Saturday 8am–1pm

23504 Calabasas Rd., Calabasas CCFM.com

24 Old Town Newhall

Farmers’ Market

Saturday 8:30am–1pm

24500 Main St., Santa Clarita NewhallFarmersMarket.com

25 Pasadena Victory Park

Farmers’ Market

Saturday 8am–12:30pm

2925 E. Sierra Madre Blvd., Pasadena PasadenaFarmersMarket.org

26 Woodland Hills Farmers’ Market

Saturday 8am–1pm

5650 Shoup Ave., Woodland Hills 818-300-3023

SUNDAY

27 Atwater Village Farmers’ Market

Saturday 9am–2pm

3528 Larga Ave., Atwater Village

SeeLA.org/markets-atwater-village

28 Glendale Artsakh Farmers’ Market

Glendale Central Library Park

Sunday 10am–3pm

222 E. Harvard St., Glendale @glendaleartsakhfarmersmarket

29 Encino Farmers’ Market

Sunday 8am–1pm

17400 Victory Blvd., Van Nuys Sepulveda Basin

OneGeneration.org/farmers-market

30 Montrose Farmers’ Market

Sunday 8am–1pm

2300-2314 Honolulu Ave., Glendale ShopMontrose.com/harvest-market-andmarketplace

31 Santa Clarita Certified Farmers’ Market

Sunday 8am–noon

College of the Canyons Parking Lot 5 Valencia Blvd. & Rockwell Canyon Rd. Santa Clarita Vccfm.org

32 Studio City Farmers’ Market

Sunday 8am–1pm

Ventura Pl., Studio City

StudioCityFarmersMarket.com

33 Toluca Lake Farmers’ Market

Sunday 9:30am–2:30pm

Wells Fargo Lot

10225 Riverside Dr., North Hollywood TolucaLakeFarmersMarket.org

34 Westlake Village Farmers’ Market

Sunday 10am–2pm

2797 Agoura Rd., Westlake Village Rawinspiration.org

CSAs and Farm Stands

35 Forneris Farms

15200 Rinaldi St., Mission Hills FornerisFarms.com

Closed Jan. and Feb.

36 Sanchez Produce

16230 Sierra Hwy., Santa Clarita @Sanchezproduce Cash only

37 Tapia Bros. Farm Stand

5251 Havenhurst Ave., Encino @tapiabrosfarm

Closed Jan. and Feb.

South Central Farmers CSA Various pickup and delivery options SCFCoop.SouthCentralFarmers.com

Illustrations by Ramiah Chu

Photo © Douglas Merriam, Santa Fe Farmers Market Cookbook farmfreshjourney.com