TASTES LIKE SPRING

CRACKING THROUGH EGGCENTRIC MYTHS

For a number of years, eggs have had a bad rap. We were told

that eggs were loaded with cholesterol. Newer studies have shown that while eggs do contain cholesterol, there is no link shown between egg intake and heart disease risk.

Then we spent decades hearing that we need less fat in our diets, so many began to separate out the “fatty” and cholesterol-rich yolks to consume only egg whites. While it is true that egg whites are low in fat and calories, they are also low in nutrients, containing 90% water, 10% protein and bits of vitamins. The golden yolk, on the other hand, carries the bulk of the benefits—vitamins and minerals that support bone health and immune function and carotenoids that are helpful for healthy vision and reducing inflammation. And as we are learning lately, good natural fats are actually helpful for brain health.

Eggs have been a basic part of the human diet for thousands of years. It is only in the last several decades that egg consumption has been separated from its season. Like many animals, poultry tend to propagate during the spring. As any small farmer or backyard chicken wrangler can attest, winter is very lean on eggs, even in mild-climate Ventura County.

It is actually the amount of daylight hours that determine how prolific a hen will be in her egg production so most egg farmers, organic and conventional alike, use some form of artificial lighting to lengthen the winter days. Light supplementation began to be used commercially around 100 years ago and has given us winter eggs ever since.

Traditional egg recipes, found in many an old cookbook, typically include a variety of vegetables only available in the spring. In fact, the favorite holiday treat of eggnog, which historically contained alcohol, was developed as a natural method of preserving the spring and summer abundance of eggs for the winter months.

As we dive into spring, we thought it would be fun to try out some recipes provided by Bree and Jaron Gugliuzza of the Royal Egg Café that help to use up some of the surplus of eggs coming. Check out some of the local Facebook groups and CSAs to find your nearest egg supplier. There is nothing quite like an egg freshly collected.

Worth noting: Hens lay (and discard) eggs regardless of the presence of a rooster, making unfertilized (and therefore non-viable) eggs a good ethically sourced food rich in protein for vegetarians.

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Whether for breakfast, dinner or a midnight snack, these crunchy flavor-packed croquettes are a hearty treat. Serve as a gourmet Eggs Benedict and pair with a local oaky Chardonnay or vibrant Pinot Gris for a perfect spring feast.

CRAB CAKES

Yields approximately 8 large cakes

1 tablespoon favorite cooking oil 1 small red onion, small-diced 1½ cups celery, small-diced 1 red bell pepper, small-diced ¼ cup minced parsley 1½ teaspoon drained capers 1½ teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning (recipe at right) ½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce (or use local Original Charman sauce) 1 teaspoon organic Worcestershire sauce 2 eggs, beaten lightly 1½ tablespoon Dijon mustard ½ cup mayonnaise 1½ cups breadcrumbs ½ pound fresh crab meat 1½ cups panko crumbs, for outer crust Favorite cooking oil for frying cakes

Homemade Old Bay Seasoning

1 tablespoon ground bay leaves 1½ teaspoons dry ground mustard 1½ teaspoons black pepper 1 teaspoon paprika 1⅔ teaspoon ground celery seeds 1⅓ teaspoons sea salt ½ teaspoon each nutmeg and ginger ⅛ teaspoon each cloves, mace, cardamom, allspice ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Whisk together and store in 2 ounce Mason jar.

In a hot pan, add 1 tablespoon oil. Then add onion, celery, bell peppers and sauté until translucent. Turn heat low, then add parsley, capers, Old Bay, hot sauce and Worcestershire sauce and cook for 3 minutes. Transfer to a small sheet pan or plate and chill completely in refrigerator. In large bowl combine eggs, Dijon, mayonnaise, breadcrumbs and crab meat; mix well. Add chilled ingredients. Mix well. Portion with ice cream scoop (or ⅓-cup measuring cup), shape with hands into disks, then coat with panko crumbs. (To make ahead: Transfer the coated cakes to airtight container and use parchment paper to stack. Store in refrigerator for up to 3 days. Label and date. Freeze up to 3 months.) To pan fry, use 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Add about ⅛ inch of favorite cooking oil. Once oil reaches 325°F, drop crab cakes in 2 at a time. With slotted spatula, flip cakes after 3 to 4 minutes. Cook for an additional 3 to 4 minutes on the other side, or until golden brown and crispy. Once cakes are golden brown and crispy on both sides, remove from oil with a slotted spatula and place onto paper towels to absorb the excess oil. Let rest for 5 minutes on the paper towels prior to eating. Serve topped with poached eggs and hollandaise sauce.

Poached Eggs

In a saucepan with barely simmering water, gently slide cracked egg into water. When egg whites are no longer translucent, (or about 3-4 minutes), scoop egg out of water with fine-mesh strainer or slotted spoon. Gently place egg on dish. Serve immediately.

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

This versatile sauce is a must-have for the gourmet home chef’s repertoire. It can be served over a variation of eggs Benedict, as shared here, or a wide variety of proteins and vegetables. Try it on poached salmon; seafood croquettes; grilled asparagus, cauliflower, broccoli or Brussels sprouts; corn cakes; scrambled egg sandwiches or even fresh blanched green beans. Once mastered, it can be made in a matter of minutes and be an endless source of flavor experimentation.

Makes approximately 1 cup

3 large egg yolks ⅛ cup cold water Juice of 1 lemon ½ teaspoon sea salt (or to taste) Pinch cayenne pepper ½ pound melted clarified butter

Combine egg yolks and water in a medium mixing bowl. Over a medium sauce pot halfway filled with boiling water, place bowl with egg yolks and beat vigorously with a whisk until eggs are very fluffy and airy. Turn off heat. Add lemon juice, salt and cayenne pepper and rapidly whisk in butter, pouring in a very slow stream. If hollandaise gets too thick and looks like it might break (curdle), whisk in 1 tablespoon of cold water. Serve immediately. Chef’s Note: Hollandaise sauce often seems out of reach for the home cook, especially with the potential for breaking or curdling. But really, it is all about the yolks: Cook them just enough to carry the butter, but not so much that they scramble. One of the best tips is to keep it warm—not hot—and be aggressive with the whisk.

Jaron and Bree Gugliuzza met in culinary school where they bonded over their love for cooking and baking. They realized how passionate they were about creating gourmet breakfast dishes using organic, high quality ingredients and felt the need to spread the love by opening their very own breakfast café (The Royal Egg Café) in Westlake Village. They have two beautiful daughters, Emilia (3) and Annabelle (1).

CARROT ZUCCHINI MUFFINS

It is always a good time for a muffin, especially one so full of healthy goodness. Try a one-to-one substitution of gluten free flour for those who are sensitive. These muffins can also be frozen for on-the-go snacks throughout the week.

Makes approximately 16–20 muffins

⅔ cup melted coconut oil ⅓ cup vegetable oil 1¼ cups brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Zest of 2 lemons 4 eggs, lightly beaten 2 cups all-purpose flour (try Roan Mills heirloom) ¾ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon nutmeg 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 cups grated carrots 1 cup grated zucchini

In a mixer with whisk attachment, cream coconut oil, vegetable oil and brown sugar until fluffy. Add vanilla and lemon zest; mix until well incorporated. Add eggs 1 at a time, mix lightly. In medium mixing bowl, combine flour, salt, nutmeg, cinnamon, baking soda and baking powder. Mix well. Slowly add dry mixture to oil and sugar with the mixer on low until incorporated. Fold in carrots and zucchini. Cover and let batter rest in refrigerator overnight. When ready to cook, preheat oven to 425 ° F. Fill lined muffin pans with chilled batter to ⅔ full. Place pans on middle rack in oven and reduce temperature to 325°. Bake for 15 minutes. Rotate pans and bake for another 15 minutes, or until golden brown and risen.