Edible OVC Summer 2022

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ISSUE 81 • SUMMER 2022

®

Ojai & Ventura County CELEBRATING LOCAL FOOD & DRINK, SEASON BY SEASON

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MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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805 | 983 | 1560 TIERRASURATHERZOG.COM @ TIERRASUR805

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Edible Ojai & Ventura County

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Edible Ojai & Ventura County

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CONTENTS

SUMMER 2022

REGULARS 6 LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER 8 EDIBLE NOTABLES Spark Brewery Cammarano’s Channel Islands Juice Co.

15 TASTES LIKE SUMMER 45 FORAGING FINDS 58 FARMERS’ MARKETS 59 EDIBLE FOR KIDS 60 CSAs 62 DINING GUIDE FEATURES 23 TRENDING

16 Grilled Chicken with Tomatillo and Grape Salsa

BY ANGELIQUE WILLIAMS

18 Fava Bean Hummus and Piadina

24 IN THE FIELD

20 Tomato Cucumber Salad with Chermoula Dressing and Melon

Full-Circle Farming

46 Succulent Salad with Prickly Pear Vinaigrette

BY JENNIFER RICHARDSON

47 Prickly Pear Margarita

31 A GENEROUS HELPING All Roads Lead to Mulberry Farm

BY SUZANNE LUCE

36 GROW WITH IT The Case for Couture Coffee

BY KIM MASTER

53 EDIBLE ENDEAVOR BBQ Is in the House

BY LESLIE ARNETTE 4

RECIPES

The Future Is Gluten Free

SUMMER 2022

50 Robin’s Recipes: Picnic Perfect 64 Super Bloom Cocktail

COVER Bright, cheery and citrusy, this locally inspired cocktail found on page 64 embodies the spirit (and spirits) of summer.

Photo by Tami Chu.

PHOTO ON THIS PAGE Signs of summer abound in the forests and fields around us. Learn more about the prickly pear and harvesting nopales on page 45.

Photo by Jess Starwood.

Edible Ojai & Ventura County

serving you is our specialty Ojai Alisal is nestled in the rolling hills of the upper Ojai Valley and guarded by the majestic Topatopa Mountains. Our beautiful south-facing vineyards dotted with sycamores (or Alisal in Spanish) and California walnuts are touched by strong daily breezes, bringing the spirit of the Rhone region to California.

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Locally Sourced . Chef Inspired Seasonal Creations Vibrant Ambiance . Winemaker Events . Dinner Specials Wine Tasting . Artisan Market . Cheese + Charcuterie

Edible Summer

Handcrafted wines using only Ojai-grown grapes 805-640-3837

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

www.ojaialisal.com

Visit ParadisePantry.com for our always fresh daily specials.

805 641 9440 • 222 East Main Street • Ventura California 93001

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LETTER from the Publisher

edible

®

Ojai & Ventura County PUBLISHER & EDITOR

H

as it been a rough couple of months for anyone else? (OK, a rough couple of years… )? These days, it feels like everything carries a little more emotional weight than it did pre-pandemic. And individually, folks—myself included—seem to have a little less emotional headspace for the normal wear and tear of daily life.

What can we do about that? Recently I was talking to someone about a story for this issue and they said, “It’s not like Edible does hard-hitting journalism.” I had to sit with that for a minute as a publisher, mulling over the bits of truth in the statement. And really, we don’t (because I don’t believe in violence). But the real reason goes back to a Mary Poppins truism: “Just a spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go down.”

In a cynical, antagonistic world, there are plenty of media outlets that are exposing bad business practices, bad people or outright lies. Ones that give us the bad news about the climate, or the fires, or the pollution in our water. In fact, they are so focused on the hard-hitting pieces that “feel-good stories” are both rare and notable.

Here at Edible Ojai & Ventura County, we are definitely focused on telling stories about real issues facing our readers, but with a heavy dose of inspiration included. Former editor Sarene Wallace, when training me to take over several years ago, explained, “Our goal is to leave the reader with something actionable—something they can DO.” That stuck with me, though maybe in part because I am a natural doer. I like to have hope, and I like to share it.

According to Scott Barry Kaufman in the Harvard Business Review, “Inspiration awakens us to new possibilities by allowing us to transcend our ordinary experiences and limitations. [It] propels a person from apathy to possibility, and transforms the way we perceive our own capabilities.”

Our theme for this summer issue is Sweet & Savory. While it includes some great sweet and savory recipes and a fun piece on dessert trends (p. 23), I am always looking for the deeper meaning. Today, how can we savor the sweetness of life? How can we make our experiences more savory? Where can we find inspiration to transcend our limitations and stretch the horizons of possibility?

Just as binging the new season of the Netflix hit Home Edit makes me want to declutter and organize every square inch of my house, I hope that devouring the recipes and stories in each issue of this magazine inspires you to seek what’s local, to try new things, to support local farmers and businesses and to take steps towards zero waste and drought management. In this, I think we can do more good than the most hard-hitting, Pulitzer Prize–winning article.

Take a deep breath with me, dear reader, and find your inspiration.

Until next time,

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Tami Chu COPY EDITOR

Doug Adrianson DESIGN

Cheryl Angelina Koehler CONTRIBUTORS

Leslie Arnette • Gabe Garcia Robin Goldstein • Paul Jones Anne Kallas • Suzanne Luce Kim Master Jennifer Richardson Jess Starwood Angelique Williams PHOTOGRAPHERS

Viktor Budnik • Eden Chu Tami Chu • Mariah Green Kim Master • Jess Starwood SALES

Mary DiCesare mary@edibleventuracounty.com SUBSCRIPTIONS

EdibleVenturaCounty.com info@edibleventuracounty.com CONTACT US

Edible Ojai & Ventura County 2470 Stearns St. #142 Simi Valley, CA 93063 805-622-9355 info@edibleventuracounty.com Founded 2002 by Tracey Ryder and Carole Topalian, Edible Ojai & Ventura County is published seasonally, four times a year. We are an advertising- and subscriber-supported publication, locally and independently owned and operated and a member of Edible Communities, Inc. Distribution is throughout Ventura County and by subscription for $28 per year. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and let us know.

Edible Ojai & Ventura County

What does it mean to be Educated?

oakgro ve scho ol .org / e dib le

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EDIBLE Notables

BEER AND A BABY Young Family Hops from Edible to Drinkable with Brewery in Ventura

BY ANNE KALLAS

F

or the past two years Tim Harbage and Linzy Mahoney of Ventura have focused on two things: a baby and beer.

Their daughter Isla Harbage, age 1, was born in late 2020.

And in April 2022, Harbage and Mahoney were putting the final touches on their new brewery/restaurant Bright Spark Brewing, slated to open this summer.

“I grew up with a family of entrepreneurs. In life, I love exploration in general,” says Mahoney. “I really want to make something for ourselves and enhance our community. That’s our goal here in Ventura. We want to bring something different to the table. There are breweries here already. So we asked ourselves what we had offer that was different.”

Mahoney and Harbage have come up with what they think is a winning combination by offering unique beers crafted by Harbage, a master brewer, and a fun and dynamic menu conceived by Mahoney, with a Lebanese influence that reflects her childhood.

Mahoney was formerly publisher and owner of Edible Los Angeles (then Edible Westside), which was her job when she met Harbage in 2011. “Through that I got plenty of experience with recipe development and testing, which gave me just enough confidence to see this through for us,” she says. “I really wanted to draw from what I know best. It’s a safe way to go in general. But I wanted to highlight recipes that I grew up with that were delicious and comforting. I’ve always wanted to do pizza. I’ve been testing these recipes for six years—and, with my family, longer. I’ve come up with a pretty fun and laid-back bar-style pizza.”

Mahoney’s bar-style pizza has the traditional thin crust with toppings out to the edge of the pan it’s cooked in.

“Mine has a cheese lacing crown,” she says. “This consists of cheese going all the way to the rim and up the sides of the pan. This pizza will have a crown of cheese as the crust that will caramelize on the sides of the pan as it bakes. If I’ve done it right, you can almost crack the cheese off. It’s fun and delicious, this crust.”

The Bright Spark Brewery also features other menu items including salads, grain bowls and assorted snacks.

Harbage is originally from Cleveland, Ohio, with a degree in chemical engineering with an emphasis on fluid flow, which has proved very useful in his beer-brewing career.

“I’ve always had an interest in food science; then I was introduced to craft beer,” says Harbage, describing his years-long transition from corporate America to head brewer at Golden Road Brewing in L.A., then Figueroa Mountain Brewing in

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Buellton and Smog City in Torrance. “I realized there was incredible science with craft beer. Before, I wasn’t feeling fulfilled. My sister urged me to go into craft beer. I’m so grateful I have my background in organic chemistry, thermodynamics and fluid flow.”

Finding a place to rent was difficult during the past two years, the couple says, because landlords were skittish about renting to a restaurant during a time when everything was shut down.

They finally found a spot at 4561 Market St., which used to be Surf Brewing. The former brewery is being combined with another portion of the building to create a brewery, restaurant and game lounge. Fully retractable windows on either side of the building will allow open airflow into patio space, and a drink rail will line the building for casual seating.

And in the middle of all of this, the couple welcomed baby Isla, who they say is the third team member—sitting in on video conferences with nary a peep. “She’s really good,” Mahoney says.

For more information about Bright Spark Brewery and for opening dates visit BrightSparkBrewing.com.

Anne Kallas is a prolific freelance writer focusing on Ventura County. A fan of local, seasonal produce, she lives in Ventura and is a former columnist, writer and copy editor for the Ventura County Star.

Edible Ojai & Ventura County

MIDTOWN VENTURA WEDNESDAYS 9:00am-1:00pm Pacific View Mall Front West Parking Lot

THOUSAND OAKS DOWNTOWN VENTURA THURSDAYS SATURDAYS 12noon - 5:00pm 8:30am – 12pm The Oaks Shopping Center City Parking Lot East End Parking Lot /Wilbur Rd

WIC, CAL-FRESH/EBT & MARKET MATCH ACCEPTED HERE

www.vccfm.org

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SANTA CLARITA SUNDAYS 8:30am – 12pm College of the Canyons

Santa Clara & Palm Streets 26455 Rockwell Canyon Rd. Parking Lot 5 CONNECT WITH US: Follow our markets on Social Media by visiting our website 805.529.6266 at www.vccfm.org @vccfm @vccfm SUMMER 2022 9

EDIBLE Notables

CAMMARANO’S SHAPE-SHIFTS IN SIMI VALLEY

BY ANNE KALLAS

T

he COVID world has been filled with twists and turns that have made the restaurant business difficult to navigate. The Canteen by Cammarano’s in Simi Valley, a hidden gem, is no exception. But owner/manager/chief concept engineer Mark Cammarano thinks the major changes he made to his operation to survive the downturn and intermittent closures have given him a winning recipe for success.

“We were formerly Cammarano’s Neighborhood Grill, for about 12 years,” he says. “We rebranded at the end of 2021 and reopened January 16 with a new concept. We had already thought of making changes after 10 to 12 years of being in business. And part of the change comes because we want to expand. We want [the new concept] to be scalable, while we build a brand. We changed the name slightly, but we’re still a canteen—a neighborhood watering hole. A place to go to get a good drink. By keeping our menu small, it allows us to change.”

Change is essential to success, Cammarano says. To deal with supply chain issues and difficulty hiring new staff, flexibility is key.

That’s why the menu is online-only and the lineup of drinks and food changes frequently.

Cammarano has been in the restaurant business for his entire career. He grew up in the San Fernando Valley, but lived within walking distance from the restaurant for years before moving to Calabasas.

After high school Cammarano wanted to go to culinary school, but couldn’t afford it, so he embarked on the other time-honored way to get into the restaurant business: He got a job in a kitchen and learned as much as he could.

“You name it, I’ve done it. That’s where my culinary style comes from. That’s why I’m attracted to the gastropub scene. It’s a blend of everything from where I’ve been. This is a place where there’s nothing 10

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off limits. We do Italian, Japanese, Mediterranean, Indian, Chinese,” he says of the menu, which features appetizers, burgers, steaks and other dishes.

But the star of the show at The Canteen by Cammarano’s is behind the bar. Mixologist Megan Diaz of Simi Valley creates one-of-a-kind cocktails, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic, that feature the flavors of herbs, flowers, fruit or whatever she can find to create such masterpieces as her Blue Buffalo Sour—which is made with Buffalo Trace bourbon, lemon juice, agave, house-made blueberry syrup and egg whites—or The Buzz—made of Bulldog Gin, lemon juice, honey lavender simple syrup, orange bitters, brut champagne and CBD gummies.

“I love going off and being able to create my own conceptions.

I do it at home. I make syrups and shrubs at home. It’s a really fun hobby of mine,” says Diaz.

The simple syrups usually consist of equal parts sugar and water with flavoring mixed in, such as peach mango jasmine from herbal teas and fresh seasonal berries or other fruits. The old-fashioned shrubs introduce vinegar to the mix, which Diaz says really adds depth to the “brightness of the alcohol.”

“I make shrubs every once in a while, with apple cider vinegar, fruits, herbs and spices that I want to work with. I let them sit in a Mason jar for 24–48 hours, before they ferment. I add them to cocktails,” Diaz says. “They’re like kombucha, but not fermented so they don’t even have traces of alcohol.”

The Canteen by Cammarano’s 575 Country Club Dr., Simi Valley Phone: 805-581-4745.

Daily menu: places.singleplatform.com/cammaranos/menu Edible Ojai & Ventura County

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

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EDIBLE Notables

DUO ADDS JUICE TO VENTURA’S HOSPITAL DISTRICT

BY ANNE KALLAS | PHOTOS BY MARIAH GREEN

O

pening a new restaurant or other food business is grueling and fraught with uncertainty even in the best of times. Opening during a worldwide pandemic is much worse, according to Robby Golden and Sean Bayly, who are partners in Channel Islands Juice Company, which now has two stores in Ventura.

Originally a subscription juice service, Channel Islands Juice Company was founded about four years ago by Melanie Clow. The juices are all organic, sourced as locally as possible, un-pasteurized and cold pressed using a hydraulic press.

Now, in addition to the juice company’s original location on Thompson Boulevard in Ventura, Golden and Bayly have opened a small juice bar/food store on Loma Vista Road, right by Ventura’s two hospitals.

“When we opened the Loma Vista store [in early January] there obviously was a mask mandate in place. People were still displaced by COVID,” says Golden. “It’s getting better now and we fully expect a Ventura stampede by summer.

“Part of our business model is to join the health revolution that is occurring post-COVID,” he continues. “People are aware of their diets. They are learning food interactions with the body. We believe that we are in the midst of a renaissance in health and wellness now that everyone has been given a first-hand glance at how important health is. So we offer wellness shots, detox shots and cold-prevention shots to help keep immune systems up.”

From the Anacapa juice—a mixture of carrots, green apple, ginger, turmeric and bee pollen, which provides an immunity

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Edible Ojai & Ventura County

“One of my mantras is ‘Be like bamboo: Bend but don’t break.’

Be spontaneous and zig and zag as the markets change, which they always do.”

—Sean Bayly boost and anti-inflammatory properties—to the Oil Dereks shots— which provide an energy boost of cold brew or nitro coffee with vegan milk of choice—the Channel Islands Juice Company offers healthy juices to supplement the diet. There are also cleanse programs using the juices, which are offered by subscription.

Golden and Bayly met in the middle of the pandemic when Bayly was looking for a new place to live and answered an ad to share Golden’s apartment.

“I met Rob through Craigslist. I passed on his apartment, but we ended up being friends. After six months of friendship, we realized we had a strong synergy. So we decided, with his background in sales and mine in food service, to go into business,” says Bayly.

Bayly is originally from Maui, before he moved to Santa Rosa and then to Santa Barbara, where he was a restaurant manager of Pizza of My Heart. Golden says he worked in corporate sales before his journey to wellness led him to the world of foods as medicine.

“I was diagnosed with an autoimmune disorder in late 2017 in part because of poor diet and work-related stress,” says Golden.

“Once I discovered health and wellness through diet, my life shifted dramatically [I quit my corporate career] and not only did I reverse the auto-immune disease, but my overall quality of life increased dramatically as I became clearer, more energetic, and much less encumbered by anxiety, depression, ADD and other mental ails that seem to be so ubiquitous in our modern daily life.”

“We focus on vegetarian and vegan offerings that are rich in antioxidants with secondary benefits, like the acai bowl,” says Bayly of the Loma Vista store, adding that the healthy grab-and-go items are geared toward medical professionals and visitors to the hospitals.

Bayly and Golden believe Channel Islands Juice Company will grow as people learn about the health benefits of their juices.

“One of my mantras is ‘Be like bamboo: bend but don’t break.’

Be spontaneous and zig and zag as the markets change, which they always do,” says Bayly. “Our long-term goal is to grow CI Juice and expand our radius, while we open other locations. Health and wellness is trending, especially at the tail end of the pandemic. An ounce of prevention is worth it. Maintaining a healthy lifestyle in mind and diet are all preventions.”

Channel Islands Juice Company 291 E. Thompson Blvd., Ventura, 805-607-8088 2991 Loma Vista Rd., Ventura, 805-628-3608 CIJuice.co EdibleVenturaCounty.com

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Edible Ojai & Ventura County

TASTES LIKE Summer

FARM-FRESH SUMMER

RECIPES BY GABE GARCIA

S

ummer in Ventura County means a plethora of fresh produce at every market, farm stand and backyard garden. The warmer temperatures typically leave many of us craving light, bright foods that give the body energy and have cooling effects. Here are some foods that are in season June, July and/or August and then some recipes to try!

Apricots Asparagus Bananas Basil Beans Blackberries Cherries Cilantro Corn Cucumber Elderberries Fava Beans Figs Garlic Lavender Lettuces Melons Mulberries Nopales (Prickly pear) Peppers Purslane Raspberries Reed Avocados Rhubarb Spinach Stone Fruits Strawberries Summer Squash Tomatillos Tomatoes

As a Southern California native, Gabe Garcia has developed a deep respect for local agriculture. Using only fresh, locally sourced ingredients for a true farm-to-table experience, he has become known for his bold dishes of American-inspired cuisine as head chef for Tierra Sur Restaurant in Oxnard.

EdibleVenturaCounty.com EdibleVenturaCounty.com

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TASTES LIKE Summer

Grilled Achiote Marinated Chicken with Grilled Tomatillo and Grape Salsa Verde

BY GABE GARCIA, EXECUTIVE CHEF, TIERRA SUR RESTAURANT

Serves 4

For the marinade:

For the Salsa:

2 dried Guajillo chile peppers, rehydrated in warm water and drained

1½ pounds tomatillos ½ large white onion

2 tablespoons orange zest

2 cups seedless green grapes on the stem (easier to grill)

1 tablespoon ground cumin

2 cloves garlic

1 tablespoon ground coriander

½ cup cilantro leaves and stems, chopped

1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

4 garlic cloves

1 jalapeño, stemmed, seeded and chopped

¼ cup ground annatto seeds

1 cup blended oil 1 spatchcocked* chicken (2½ to 3½ pounds)

Salt and pepper to taste

* To spatchcock a chicken: Use kitchen shears or a chef’s knife to cut along the spine from neck to tail. Flip the chicken so that the breast faces up and press until flattened.

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Place all marinade ingredients in a blender and purée until smooth.

Spread paste over the chicken and allow to marinate for at least an hour (overnight for best results).

Preheat grill to a medium-high temperature.

Lightly char the tomatillos, white onion and grapes on the grill.

Place all other salsa ingredients along with the charred tomatillo, onion and grapes (removed from the stem) in food processor and purée.

Season with salt and set aside.

Season the chicken with salt and pepper and grill, bone side down for around 12–15 minutes with grill lid closed. Flip the chicken and finish cooking, skin side down, until the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165°F, about 10–15 minutes more. Rest the chicken for a few minutes, then serve along with the salsa.

Edible Ojai Ojai && Ventura Ventura County County Edible

to savor the extraordinary.

In Monterey County, some experiences are best enjoyed at a slower pace. It’s easy to get lost in a stunning vista, the creativity of a dish, or a good conversation with great friends. So, come explore the flavor of this place. At your own speed.

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

SeeMonterey.com/Now

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TASTES LIKE Summer

Fresh Fava Bean Hummus with Piadina and Za’atar Traditionally, hummus is made with garbanzo beans. While this recipe calls for favas, grown abundantly in Ventura County, if you can find fresh garbanzo beans at the markets they can be easily substituted in here.

Paired with rustic Italian flatbread and Middle Eastern seasonings, this is sure to be a hit at your next backyard barbecue.

Serves 4–6

For the Piadina: 1¼ teaspoons active dry yeast ¾ cup warm water 2½ tablespoons sugar ½ cup warm water ¾ teaspoon kosher salt 3 tablespoons blended oil 1 quart (4 cups) all-purpose flour* Oil for cooking

For the hummus: 1 pound fresh fava beans, shelled* (yields approximately 1 cup when shelled) 1 clove garlic, chopped ½ cup water ¼ cup tahini (sesame seed) paste ½ lemon, juiced

To make piadina: Mix yeast, ¾ cup warm water and sugar together and set aside for 10 minutes, until the yeast foams.

Place proofed yeast mixture along with rest of ingredients in a mixer. Mix until the dough comes together, then cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 20 minutes.

Cut and form dough into nine (3-ounce) balls. Cover the balls and let rest for another 20 minutes.

Heat a skillet over medium-high flame and brush with oil. One at a time, roll each dough ball into a flat thin disk about ¼ inch thick and grill for about 2–4 minutes per side on the hot skillet. Continue until all dough disks are cooked. Serve whole or torn.

For the hummus: Steam fresh fava beans for about 20 minutes or until tender, then cool.

Using a food processor, pulse cooked beans, garlic, tahini, lemon juice and avocado. Add enough water until your desired texture is achieved. Season with salt to taste. Garnish with za’atar and drizzled extra virgin olive oil.

Serve the piadina with the fresh hummus.

Chef Tip: To prevent sticking, spray the dough balls with nonstick spray while they proof. Also dust the balls with flour before you roll them out.

1 avocado (skin and pit removed) Salt to taste 1 tablespoon za’atar 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 18 18

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* Editor’s Notes: 1. We also tested this recipe with a 1-to-1 gluten-free flour mixture and it performed very well. 2. Fava beans for this recipe were provided by the Carranza Family of the McGrath Family Farms Collective.

Edible Ojai Ojai && Ventura Ventura County County Edible

The Ojai Community Farmers’ Market

dense food, market tours, educational

is a 501(c)(3) non-profit Certified

signage in English and Spanish, young

Farmers’ Market run by a board

entrepreneurial programs, seasonal

of local community members and

recipes,

farmers. It is our mission to provide

and assisted growth programs for

access to healthy food, cultivate

vendors.

community and promote education.

a

kid’s

activity

corner

Our market is proud to accept EBT/

It is our vision to educate consumers

SNAP and WIC nutritional assistance

about our food system, hold space

and participate in a Market Match

for farmers and producers to interact

program that increases the amount

directly with their customers and

of fruits and vegetable you can buy

partner with our local schools to

every week at the market.

promote healthy lifestyles and deeper community connection.

We are honored to be a part of this community and hope that you will

In collaboration with the Ojai Unified

join us every Thursday from 3-7 in the

School District we have been able to

Chaparral courtyard to experience

provide Spring and Fall workshops,

the Ojai Community Farmers’ Market

weekly local music, local nutritionally

that is uniquely Ojai.

LIV Sotheby’s International Realty is honored to sponsor Ojai Community Farmers’ Market, supporting local farmers, food artisans and makers and increasing access to healthy foods for our local community. livsothebysrealtyca.com 727 West Ojai Avenue, Ojai, California 93023 554 East Main Street, Ventura, California 93001 EdibleVenturaCounty.com

© 2022 LIV Sotheby’s International Realty. All rights reserved.

Each Office is Independently Owned and SUMMER Operated. 2022 19

TASTES LIKE Summer

Tomato Cucumber Salad with Chermoula Dressing and Melon Summer is a time for the freshest ingredients and distinct flavors. Blending savory and sweet can be both exciting and refreshing to the palate and invigorate the senses. This salad is great as an impressive starter for a savory dinner or just as a healthy afternoon snack.

Serves: 4

For the pickled lime onion (make ahead)

2 tablespoons lemon juice

½ red onion, cut into petals

¼ teaspoon Aleppo chili flakes

1 cup fresh lime juice

Optional: 1 jalapeño, seeds and stem removed

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

¼ teaspoon salt

For the salad 2 cups cherry heirloom tomatoes, cut in half 1–2 large heirloom tomatoes, cut into wedges ½ cup extra virgin olive oil Fleur de Sel salt, to taste ¼ cup red wine vinegar

For pickled onions: Mix the red onion petals with the salt and lime juice. Make sure all the petals are submerged by the juice. Refrigerate for at least an hour. The onions should get bright pink.

For salad: Toss the tomatoes with red wine vinegar, olive oil and sea salt.

To plate the salad, spread a quarter of the chermoula on each of 4 plates.

Lay the seasoned tomatoes on top of the chermoula base. Continue building the salad by adding a layer of cucumber and melon. Mix purslane and torn piadina bread with the pickled onions and place on top of the cucumber and melon.

Finish with a sprinkle of sumac and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Serve.

For chermoula dressing: Place all ingredients in food processor and pulse until texture resembles a loose pesto.

2 cups lemon or Armenian cucumbers, cut into wedges ¼ honeydew melon, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 quart purslane* 1 cup piadina bread or pita, torn into large pieces 1 tablespoon sumac

For the chermoula dressing 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted and ground 1 cup cilantro with stems 1 cup Italian parsley with stems 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, peeled, rough chop 2 garlic cloves ½ cup extra virgin olive oil Zest from ½ lemon * Purslane is a crunchy lemony mild green. If it cannot be found at your local market, flat-leaf parsley, miner’s lettuce, watercress leaves or spinach can be substituted.

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Edible Ojai & Ventura County

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

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ANTI-ESTABLISHED IN OJAI, CA

“I owe it all to chocolate, art books and young men.”

-Beatrice “Beato” Wood

Beatrice Wood’s art, spirit and love of the “reasonable and unreasonable” inspired us to create Beato Chocolates, a line of artisan creations formed from her original pottery molds and Dadaist works. Our chocolates are handmade using fair trade local ingredients in Wood’s beloved Ojai, California.

Located inside the Porch Gallery Ojai Beato Chocolates | 310 E. Matilija Ave., Ojai, CA 93023 | www.beatochocolates.com

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Edible Ojai & Ventura County

Trending

BY ANGELIQUE (ANGIE) WILLIAMS s a professional pastry chef for the past eight years, I can safely say that dessert trends are changing. It seems every wedding or large event I have done in the last six months has had a number of guests who needed specialized desserts.

THE ORDER OF THINGS Prior to this, (and also considering the lull for COVID), specialty requests would be on a smaller scale—maybe the bride is gluten-free so just the top tier needs to be gluten-free, or two guests are vegan and need vegan desserts. But the volume and consistency of requests for gluten-free or vegan items has had a marked increase lately. It’s typical now to receive orders for full threetiered gluten-free cakes or vegan cupcakes ordered by the dozen. Moreover, a lot of requests have been for items that are both gluten-free and vegan, which can be harder to accommodate.

This is a shift that’s affecting the whole industry all over the globe, from pastry chefs to the businesses that support them.

Customers not only want their requests accommodated, but they want an expansion in the variety of treats that can be enjoyed by those on restricted diets. More chefs are EdibleVenturaCounty.com EdibleVenturaCounty.com

offering master classes and creating recipe books specifically catered towards desserts that are free from gluten or all animal products. The demand for more vegan and gluten-free products has shifted so that a bowl of sorbet with fresh berries—which used to be the staple alternative—will no longer suffice as the only dessert option.

REACTIONS TO REACTIONS BECAUSE OF REACTIONS Since more and more customers are asking for these types of specialty dessert items, it seems as if a whole new pantry of products to work with has popped up overnight. No longer are gluten-free flour alternatives available only at specialty grocery stores, but the scope and variety of these products is also on the rise, proof of the increasing demand for superior products that are both dairy- and gluten-free.

Coconut-cream-based vegan products no longer always have a coconut aftertaste to them, and with the addition of oat-milkbased products you can find dairy-free ice creams that are just as rich and creamy as the lactose-laden originals.

Gluten-free flour blends have come a long way from producing dense and gummy results to creating light and fluffy slice-of-

heaven sponge cakes, while also allowing for a shift away from reliance on nut flours to create a superior gluten-free product. This has created an exciting new challenge for pastry chefs (myself included) to create variations of the gluten- and dairy-filled confections that we all know and love but in forms that everyone can enjoy! And the best part is, you might not even miss any of that dairy or gluten!

THE SWEET SPOT Whether you have dietary restrictions or allergies that prevent you from eating certain foods or you are simply choosing to make changes in your food habits, I am hopeful for you, as this is one trend that I truly believe is here to stay—as gluten- and dairyfree dessert options continue to approach, rival and perhaps eventually surpass their traditional forebears in taste, texture and gut compatibility.

For delicious gluten or dairy free recipes, visit EdibleVenturaCounty.com.

Angelique (Angie) Williams, raised in Camarillo and educated in Rhode Island and Italy, found her pastry passion during culinary school. With a degree in culinary arts and food service management, she has shared her skills in places like the Ojai Valley Inn, Café Ficelle and Sweet Arleen’s.

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In the Field

FULL-CIRCLE FARMING Food entrepreneur Mollie Engelhart’s quest for healthy food from healthy soil

BY JENNIFER RICHARDSON | PHOTOS BY MARIAH GREEN

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Farm-raised kids, oldest Osmar, (opposite) and youngest Sol (right) help harvest avocados grown on Sow a Heart Farm in Fillmore.

M

ollie Engelhart is on a mission to feed more families healthy food from healthy soil.

It all started with a vegan ice cream shop, Kind Kreme, co-founded by Engelhart in 2010 in Los Angeles. The ice cream shops were integrated into the Sage Plant Based Bistros that Engelhart now co-owns with her husband, Elias Sosa, the first of which was opened in Echo Park in 2011. A second location in Culver City was backed by actor Woody Harrelson, then came a third outlet in Pasadena and, most recently, in 2020, a fourth in Agoura Hills.

But the real game changer for Engelhart was a 2013 TED Talk by soil educator Graeme Sait.

GOLF COURSE TO FARM “I realized there was something we could do. Prior to that I drove my hybrid, I brought my bags to the grocery store, I drank my oat milk latte and I felt apathetic. When I realized there was a path forward, and it was about partnering with the soil, partnering with nature, partnering with plants, I was moved to make a complete shift in my life.”

And she eventually did, moving from a golf-club estate in Granada Hills to a farm in Fillmore in 2018 to “build healthy soil.” That 20-acre farm, called Sow a Heart, is where Engelhart and Sosa started experimenting with regenerative agriculture, an integrated approach to farming that was used by Indigenous communities and aims to sequester both carbon and water in the soil. According to the Sow a Heart website, regenerative agriculture includes both “farming and grazing practices that... reverse climate change by rebuilding soil organic matter and restoring degraded soil biodiversity.”

Engelhart and her husband have since bought two more properties in Fillmore, bringing their total acreage on which to practice regenerative farming to somewhere between 60 and 70.

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Given that Sage Bistro is a plant-based restaurant group, it may be surprising to learn that animals play a key role on the Fillmore farms.

Engelhart explains, they are “compost makers, lawn mowers, manure makers and fertilizer makers.”

Short sheep—a cross between Dorpers and Babydolls—are bred on the farm for orchard grazing for people who don’t want to use Roundup. Dairy cows and goats supply manure and, for the non-vegans living on the farm, milk. They do not slaughter their animals, but Engelhart also volunteers that her husband, Sosa, eats meat and she’s “not someone who believes that there’s only one diet for everybody.”

“Before I was farming and I was just a vegan chef, I had very didactic views about what veganism should be,” she says. “That’s an inquiry that I’m still in. Farming changes the way you look at life and death, because even though we don’t harvest animals, animals die.

Nature is cruel.”

Engelhart is forthright in discussing potentially controversial topics beyond the crossroads of veganism and animals in agriculture.

Early on in our conversation she acknowledges that Sow a Heart is not her first foray into agriculture. She previously spent many years growing marijuana. “I’m good at farming so I was good at that too.”

FARM TO TABLE ... TO FARM The relationship between Sow a Heart farm and the Sage Bistro and Brewery enterprise is symbiotic. Engelhart estimates the farm supplies 10–15% of the produce for the restaurants, and scraps from the restaurant and adjacent enterprises are returned to the farm for

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compost, preventing them from producing harmful methane in landfill. According to the EPA, “methane is more than 25 times as potent as carbon dioxide at trapping heat in the atmosphere.” This closedloop process is one example of how regenerative practices help fight climate change.

(Many California residents became more aware of the problem of food waste in landfills when a law took effect in January 2022 requiring household food waste recycling. As a result, many of us now separate kitchen scraps into a bag that goes into our garden waste each week.)

Regenerative farming is also more water efficient, a key consideration in drought-ridden California. Engelhart says that on one of their Fillmore parcels they used half as much water as a neighbor with a similar-sized property but yielded 20 times as much value in produce.

She acknowledges it took more labor but uses the example to push back on the idea of needing GMOs to feed the world. “I’m saying, ‘No, we just need more people to care about the Earth and more custodians of the Earth, and we can use land so much more efficiently.’”

While Engelhart has no plans to open any Sage Bistros in Ventura

County, residents can try her food by buying community-supported agriculture (CSA) farm boxes on the Sow a Heart website. About twothirds of the CSA box comes from their farms, with the rest coming from other Ventura County farms that engage in regenerative agriculture, including Ayala Farms. They are also at the Ojai Community Farmers’ Market every Thursday.

For a more immersive experience, join a volunteer Sunday at Sow a Heart for land work and a vegan/vegetarian lunch. If you prefer to drink your produce, hops from Sow a Heart are used by Ventura’s Poseidon Brewing Company.

And if you happen to be in Texas, there will soon be another chance to interact with Engelhart’s food. She and Sosa recently bought 200 acres in Bandera, Texas—about an hour northwest of San Antonio—where they will undertake holistic planned grazing on a larger scale.

“I want to see what’s possible,” Engelhart explains. They also plan to open a Sage Bistro and a Oaxacan restaurant (Sosa is from the Mexican state of Oaxaca) with a shared kitchen and the same farmto-table concept in San Antonio around the end of the year.

Mollie Engelhart and husband Elias Sosa—pictured here with their children Osmar, Rio, Luna and Sol (oldest to youngest)—use food from their regenerative Fillmore farm in their cafés and food waste from their cafés on the farm.

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THE PROOF IS ON THE PLATE Shortly after I interviewed Engelhart, I went to the Sage Bistro in Agoura Hills for dinner. As a mostly vegan eater who loves dining out, I’m used to asking servers in my nicest voice to substitute olive oil for butter or leave the cheese out of a dish.

Usually there are a few items on the menu that will work, which is to say I eat a lot of pizza marinara and plant-based burgers.

I am largely resigned to my lot in life being meager menu selections, but Sage, whose plant-based offering rivals the legendary proportions of The Cheesecake Factory’s spiral-bound beast, is a welcome respite. And we’re not just talking runof-the-mill vegan fare. Yes, there are the requisite salads and smoothies and bowls, but there are also share plates, pizzas, entrées, tacos and sides—enough to cover both sides of the placemat-size menu.

Then there are the supplemental menus, one for booze, including kombuchas, beers and seltzers from

El Jardin Courtyard 451 E. Main Street, #4 Ventura, CA 93001 805-775-7280 hello@fringeshoppe.com EdibleVenturaCounty.com

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Photos by Talia Manrique

Sage Brews, and another for nonalcoholic drinks and desserts.

On the latter are juices, smoothies, wellness shots and shakes; coffees, including eight different lattes (sweet potato, anyone?); and 12 flavors of ice cream to eat solo or with one of the 10 housemade desserts, like the bread pudding my husband and I clashed spoons over as we staked our claims to the final bite. If you take a non-vegan to Sage and they complain there’s nothing they want to eat, they’re just not trying.

In the Agoura Hills restaurant, Engelhart’s ambition manifests beyond the menu. A TV mounted on a wall runs a loop of videos from her YouTube channel. Near the host stand, a corner of the restaurant is dedicated to Sage swag, including apparel and farm-based pantry items, from popcorn kernels to orange-based cleaning products. As she spreads her empire east to Texas this year, I can’t help thinking: This is Engelhart’s world, we all just get to eat in it.

Jennifer Richardson is the author of Americashire: A Field Guide to a Marriage, an Indie Reader Discovery Award winner for travel writing. She and her British husband consider themselves lucky to call both Ventura and a village in the English Cotswolds home. To learn more, visit JenniferRichardson.net.

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Visit our website: tangerineman.com

Let us introduce you to Food Forward, one of our favorite local food groups.

Churchill Orchard has donated thousands of pounds of delicious but not completely sale-able Pixie and Kishu mandarins to Food Forward over the years.

Food Forward recovers — from backyards, farmers markets, packing houses, and wholesale markets — surplus produce that would otherwise go to waste and donates it free of charge to hundreds of nonprofits serving people experiencing food insecurity across Southern California.

Learn more at: foodforward.org/

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A Generous Helping

ALL ROADS LEAD TO MULBERRY LANE

BY SUZANNE LUCE | PHOTOS BY VIKTOR BUDNIK

“What smells like lemon, tastes like pepper and turns your tongue and mouth numb?”

Karen Meier wondered to herself as she tasted the ripened fruit of yet another mysterious plant on her farm in Somis. “Either I’ve found a cure for COVID or I’ve got COVID,” she thought.

It was Thursday and the farmers’ market was Saturday—no time to get the agricultural commissioner to come out and approve this new fruit—so she brought a small sample to the market instead. A customer of Chinese descent came up to the booth and excitedly said, “Sichuan peppercorns!” The peppercorns brought back so many fond food memories, the customer said, and here they were at her local farmers’ market.

Karen had the same feeling when she tasted her first batch of bananas at Mulberry Lane Farm. The memory took her back 60 years to when she was 2 years old in Valencia, Venezuela. Her father worked for Ford when she was young, which transferred the family there.

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T H E U P S I D E O F D OW N S Buying the farm was a brand-new endeavor in the Meiers’ more than 20-year commitment to serving, supporting and educating families and individuals connected to those with Down syndrome through their nonprofit, The Upside of Downs. Karen and her husband, Ron, had six children, but as they began to understand what their two sons with Down syndrome needed, they felt compelled to share what they had learned.

Volunteers of all abilities, including adults with Down syndrome and autism from local organizations like the Arc of Ventura County and SAGE Services in Camarillo work happily each week at Mulberry Lane Farm planting, weeding, saving seeds, and harvesting and tasting fruit. The team then proudly offers the fruits of their labor at the Camarillo Farmers Market on Saturdays.

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MYS T I CA L L A N D Forty years ago, the land where Mulberry Lane Farm now lies was bare—but the owner was a self-taught botanist and collector who, after studying the microclimate of the property, built it from his own research and travels, filling it over the last four decades with exotic and rare, mostly tropical, fruit trees from Australia, China and other places around the world.

His health was deteriorating so he had to leave his beloved farm. Sadly, he passed on the day the Meiers moved in, leaving many mysteries as to the origin, care and harvesting of plants on the property.

Karen spends her days learning from the land, tasting fruit that has fallen from the trees, checking them for ripeness, identifying them by researching on the Internet, meeting people at the market and reading dusty books on horticulture left behind in the farmhouse. “There are so many different cultures represented here,” she says.

Besides the groves and orchards of familiar fruits such as bananas, papayas, mangos, figs, persimmons, pomegranates and Asian pears, Mulberry Lane Farm brings an entirely unrepresented collection of fruits to the table— all from just six acres of land.

There are Malabar chestnut trees that grow alongside Chinese wampi berries and pomelos. There are Malaysian guavas, Peruvian apple cacti, dragon eye fruit from tropical Asia, Asian loquats and Pakistani mulberries. The finger limes, lilly pilly berries and bunya trees are Australian.

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Karen Meier appreciates volunteers like Victoria (right) helping at the farm and at the Camarillo Farmers Market on Saturdays.

Opposite (bottom): Karen and her son Steve pick flowers for the market.

From the cherimoya fruits on the farm, native to the South American tropics, that grow easily up to three pounds each, to the tiny Sichuan peppercorns of China, there is an abundance of fruit throughout the year in quantity and variety. Mulberry Lane Farm takes Karen on a seemingly endless adventure, which she wholeheartedly embraces. But it’s only the latest in a series of adventures.

FINDING HOME After delivering her fifth child, Steve, in their car, on a freezing night in Michigan, she felt as though she had just participated in an incredible miracle. But the next morning she was told he had Down syndrome, and that her best options were adoption or an institution—or she could bring him home and hope for the best.

Without hesitation, she did just that, and embraced the miracles she knew would follow. Two years later, an orphanage contacted the couple through an online Down syndrome support network they belonged to, and they adopted their youngest son, Tom, also with Down syndrome.

They raised their six kids in the Midwest until 2016, when Ron’s job at General Motors moved the family from Illinois to California.

The Meiers’ four older children were living on their own, and Steve and Tom were both approaching the cutoff age of 22 for their special education through public schools.

The family needed to find a home, a high school for Tom to finish his senior year, and a post-secondary education program for Steve within a 20-mile radius of Ron’s new office in Westlake Village. They had moved before, but Karen says this was the first time she found everything she needed and even what she wasn’t expecting to find.

Just a week after moving to Moorpark, they walked on the campus of Padre Serra Catholic Church in Camarillo and it immediately EdibleVenturaCounty.com

reminded Karen of the feeling and look of the foothills of the Andes, and the places where she had school picnics as a child in Venezuela.

Then, what she describes as a friendly herd of parishioners rushed over to them, including folks like Bill Routolo, a 49-year-old with Down syndrome (who regularly works at Mulberry Lane Farm now), and his sister, Lisa, who took custodial guardianship of Bill when their parents passed. For the first time, they had found a community of families they could share life with who understood the challenges and blessings of Down syndrome.

P L A N T I N G M Y S T E RY S E E D S Two years later, Steve had “aged out” of school and was waiting for an opening at one of the county’s adult day programs, which they were told could take up to two years. Meanwhile, the Meiers were invited on a tour of Apricot Lane Farms by their neighbors a few doors down, whose daughter is Molly Chester, co-founder and farmer at the biodynamic farm in Moorpark with her husband, John. During the tour, when Karen stopped at the garden area and met manager Joy Joyce, she knew this was where Steve needed to be.

Karen and Steve began volunteering together for Joy at Apricot Lane Farms three days a week, “like guinea pigs,” Karen says, because they didn’t have a special program or set of activities developed for those who are differently abled. It turns out as they were planting seeds for Apricot Lane Farms, they were also cultivating the idea for their own farm and providing this kind of experience for other adults with disabilities and their caregivers.

During this time, Karen stepped into a new role with Steve as teacher, rather than mom, and she quickly began to understand the differences. One day they were doing the simple task of saving fennel SUMMER 2022 33

Mulberry Lane Farm is home to the nonprofit the Upside of Downs, which funds the farm program for special needs individuals and celebrates differently abled folks.

seeds by loosening them from the plant and letting them fall on butcher paper.

The noise turned out to be a sensory trigger for Steve and he shut down for hours.

Karen wondered if she could somehow channel the professional therapists that Steve had worked with and utter the magic words to snap him out of it.

“I suddenly had a deep, profound [gratitude] for their teachers over the years, their level of commitment and how they just knew what to do with my boys.”

Steve didn’t want to touch the dirt after all those years of being asked to keep his hands clean. Karen told him, “You like milk and cows make milk, cows need grass and grass needs dirt.” As they overcame challenges together at the farm, they both adopted a new mind-set that Karen describes as “out of dirt comes all good things.”

One great project inspires another, and Karen began to dream. What would it be like if we had an experience like working at Apricot Lane—for Steve and all the other adults with Down syndrome they had met here in their new community—without the pressure of production and sales?

Her curiosity led her on a road trip six hours north to Camphill Communities California, a residential farm in Northern California for special needs adults (there are over 100 such farms worldwide). She also called the Turtle Tree Seed Initiative in upstate New York, run primarily by a team of special needs individuals. She kept her research to herself; it felt like an off-the-wall idea.

Turns out, Ron also was busy thinking about the future and, having lived on a farm as a young child in North Dakota, was imagining himself on a farm as he approached retirement. It was February 2020 when he said to Karen, “How about we buy a farm?”

F R O M VO L U N T E E R T O FA R M E R Within two days, they were visiting the tropical fruit farm in Somis that would become Mulberry Lane Farm. By May, the Meiers moved into the cheerful sky-blue farmhouse on the property and named their new home after the lush mulberry tree that shades the drive in.

Karen took the leap with a big heart, yet zero experience in farming. Joy, whom she met back at Apricot Lane, soon joined the team at Mulberry Lane Farm and helps Karen navigate the needs of the farm and its volunteers.

Suzanne Luce, a writer and mother of three, has long been a real-food enthusiast, making much of the food her family eats from scratch. She is also actively involved with Slow Food Ventura County as baker and publicist. She has worked professionally in marketing and PR and earned a bachelor’s degree in literature/writing from the University of California, San Diego.

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HOW YOU CAN HELP! 1. Purchase seeds from the Bright Horizons Seed shop on Etsy.com (see link below). Sales go directly to the Upside of Downs.

2. Make a donation to the Upside of Downs 501(c)(3), which funds maintenance of the farm and its no-fee programs for special needs individuals.

3. Shop at the Mulberry Lane Farm stand at the Camarillo Farmers Market on Saturday mornings from 8am–noon in Old Town Camarillo. Mention this article (and a new exotic fruit you’d like to try) and enjoy 10% off your purchase!

To make a tax-deductible contribution please visit: UpsideOfDowns.org/ Check out the seed shop: Etsy.com/Shop/BrightHorizonSeeds Camarillo Farmers Market: CamarilloFarmersMarket.com Follow the Mulberry Lane Farm adventure on Instagram (@mulberrylanefarm.somis) and Facebook For more of their story visit UpsideOfDowns.org/about/our-story

Edible Ojai & Ventura County

This Spot’s for You!

Offering a large selection of books on food and cooking, as well as all other subjects.

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

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GROW with It

The Case for Couture Coffee WORDS AND PHOTOS BY KIM MASTER

The Experience

“Diversity is key. With a layered agriculture system that includes plant species like coffee, we’re creating a resilient system that offers protection from an increasingly turbulent environment.”

On March 3, 2022, I had a transcendental coffee experience. Granted, I tend to make preposterous claims and feel an extraordinary exuberance for life when I’m over-caffeinated. I’d already had three cups of coffee and a shot of espresso by the time I showed up at Jay Ruskey’s farm in Goleta. Jay, CEO and co-founder of Frinj Coffee—a company that works with over 70 farms that grow coffee in Santa Barbara, Ventura and San Diego counties—directed me into a modern yet rustic, airy, light-filled barn that I quickly realized is a state-of-the-art coffee laboratory.

In one corner stood a man with a clipboard studying his roast profile notes around an avante-garde San Franciscan coffee roaster.

Bustling up and down from a lofted space, coffee mugs and laptops in hand, were various administrative staff. My eyes gravitated toward the display on an

—Jay Ruskey 36

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Coffee has been growing in California’s avocado regions for 20 years. Above and top left: Jay Ruskey, CEO of Frinj Coffee, shows his coffee trees and a passion flower representative of the farm’s diversity. Left: James Freeman of Ojai sits under the “majestic oaks” on his property, where he hosts coffee experiences.

otherwise impeccably clean stainless kitchen island: a vintage stainless water pitcher, various glasses, a scale and small sample bags of coffee, all arranged amidst freshly cut vines of crimson coffee berries on a rustic oak slab.

Jay wasted no time filling two large glasses with sparkling water and squeezing caviar limes into each one, “to cleanse our palates.” For the next 20 minutes, Jay slowly poured water over his precisely ground Caturra and Gesha beans, the premier varieties of coffee in the world. Typically, these high-end coffees are grown around the equator and sold to markets in Asia, but Jay Ruskey and his coffee venture are anything but ordinary.

“How does it taste?”

As a former small craft coffee business owner who has visited countless farms (closer to the equator) with a somewhat-judgemental coffee-fanatic mind-set, I was surprised to find myself savoring each sip of these California brews.

“Extraordinary.”

Why Are VC Farmers Growing Coffee?

Lisa Tate farms on the family land purchased in the late 1920s by her great-grandfather, now part of family-owned Rancho Filoso. With decades of farming experience in her back pocket, and a recognition of the challenges presented by climate change, the Asian Citrus Psyllid and even global trade issues, she saw the need to continue to diversify her crops. Lisa took what she describes as a “new, exciting opportunity” and added 1,295 coffee trees on one and a half acres. Shortly after, the Thomas Fire burned through her land and many avocado trees, but left the coffee standing.

David Hertz, a leader in sustainable architecture and regenerative design, sought out coffee plants to safeguard his home in the face of climatic disasters. He has planted 550 trees as a high-humidity windbreak zone to protect his Ventura EdibleVenturaCounty.com

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County property from future fires. David found that while “avocados and citrus have lost their resistance to pests, coffee does not have pests in California because it’s such a new plant here.” He has heightened awareness of climatic changes, especially given the Thomas Fire and more frequent 90 mph gusts of wind on his property. David planted coffee, alongside passion fruit hedges, “to mitigate risk.”

The past year was one of the driest and hottest on record in California, and comes during a larger 22-year megadrought in the West that research shows is being worsened by climate change. The U.S. Department of Agriculture has designated Ventura County as a “primary natural disaster area” due to drought.

Many farmers in this area have an increased understanding that they must grow produce not as monocrops, but rather as a mix of diverse, symbiotic crops that regenerate the soil and conserve as much water as possible. Coffee plants require a significant amount of water, about equivalent to that used by avocado trees, even with the most carefully managed, precision irrigation and cutting-edge soil regeneration techniques. Nonetheless, local coffee farmers assert coffee’s benefits to the overall farm system outweigh the costs.

“Diversity is key,” says Jay Ruskey. “With a layered agriculture system that includes plant species like coffee, we’re creating a resilient system that offers protection

from an increasingly turbulent environment.” Indeed, his coffee farm is a tropical utopia—not only are the coffee plants robust, but the diverse array of plant, insect and bird species thriving alongside his coffee is awe-inspiring.

The changing markets have encouraged farmers to seek alternative crops, like coffee. In 2017, the Trump Administration lifted a 16year lemon import ban and allowed Argentine lemons into the United States, saturating the market and lowering lemon prices, while as of January 1, 2022, labor prices were rising. Given this ever-changing and challenging environment, resilient and visionary farmers understand coffee as a sustainable business option. Jay contends that a farmer can realize an additional $5,000–$8,000 per acre by adding coffee plants under an avocado tree canopy. Blue Bottle Coffee founder and Ojai coffee grower James Freeman words it succinctly: “Coffee is a way to diversify and potentially save farmers’ livelihoods.”

Grow Coffee? In SoCal??

After 20 years growing coffee in California, Jay Ruskey has well-established proof that coffee grows well anywhere avocados grow. That said, starting a coffee farming production in

Lisa Tate farms on the family land purchased in the late 1920s by her great-grandfather, now part of family-owned Rancho Filoso.

With decades of farming experience in her back pocket, and a recognition of the challenges presented by climate change, the Asian Citrus Psyllid and even global trade issues, she saw the need to continue to diversify her crops. Lisa took what she describes as a “new, exciting opportunity” and added 1,295 coffee trees on one and a half acres. Shortly after, the Thomas Fire burned through her land and many avocado trees, but left the coffee standing.

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California is a long-term, arduous investment. Coffee trees can live for over 35 years in other parts of the world, and take four years before they produce viable coffee beans. Wind is a concern, and these tropical plants don’t like freezing temperatures. However, in the right, protected areas, and with thoughtful cultivation, coffee plants flourish here. David Hertz and other Ventura County farmers are using “biochar,” a charcoal-like substance that’s made by burning organic material from agricultural and forestry wastes (also called biomass) in the planting hole. They are also interspersing other plants, like passion fruit, dragon fruit or Inga trees, to provide necessary nitrogen, sun and wind protection.

California coffee plants aren’t just surviving, they’re thriving. California coffee farms are located farther from the equator than traditional coffee farms, which means the cherries take twice as long to ripen, and the taste is more “defined” and “some of the sweetest in the world,” according to Jay Ruskey. The professional coffee world agrees: his Caturra 2014 crop, the first California-grown coffee to ever be tested, was rated 27th in the world with a score of 92, which is considered “exceptional.” Co-owner of Ragamuffin Coffee Roasters Shawn Pritchett, in partnership with Lisa Tate’s coffee venture, reported that Rancho Filoso’s 4-year-old crop of 2020 Gesha was

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professionally rated at 89.25, which is also excellent, especially considering coffee is not considered mature until year five.

The Cost of California Coffee High-caliber California coffee comes at a high price: $160–$283 per pound, or around $16 a cup at a Blue Bottle coffee shop.

There are many factors that justify this cost of California coffee relative to the cost of coffee grown in developing countries, including the cost of land, water and labor. To address labor in particular, coffee cherries can’t just be picked and sold like an avocado or an orange.

Coffee is an especially painstaking venture that involves planting, harvesting, floating, pulping, fermentation, drying, hulling, roasting, grinding and brewing—ideally with the utmost care during each of these steps.

Moreover, California conditions are unique relative to Latin America and other coffee-growing regions, in part due to distance from the equator—here, the fruit takes roughly two to four months longer to mature,

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meaning California farmers harvest only half the coffee cherries compared to typical commercial coffee growers, and must manage the plants for a longer period of time.

California farmers are highly valued for this skilled work, and paid accordingly.

“The goal is to support the farmer first.

We try to get the highest price for our coffee as possible, then give half that value back to the farmer,” says Jay. Given the higher costs for land and labor, the profit margins on a pound of coffee are similar in California as conventional coffee-growing regions like Ethiopia and Mexico, where production costs are much lower. As in, very low. The biggest barrier?

“Perception,” says Jay. “People are willing to pay $12 for a five-ounce glass of wine, but only 25 cents for a five-ounce cup of coffee.”

A Fruitful Trend?

Despite the obstacles and risks associated with shifting to an entirely new crop like coffee, Ventura County farmers may soon see the fruits of their labor, literally. In 2017, Blue Bottle purchased 250 pounds of Gesha beans from Jay Ruskey, sold the coffee at $16 a cup, and sold out in two weeks. In 2019, Bird Rock Roasters sold 20 pounds of California-grown Gesha coffee at $100 for 4 ounces within hours.

We can expect further growth along this trajectory as more nascent coffee trees in Ventura County begin to bear fruit for harvesting. Just as Jay compared the costs Top: David Hertz, who grows coffee in Ventura, is looking forward to hosting coffee events on his property, which houses the original stage set from the musical The King and I. of wine and coffee, he likes to compare the Bottom: The roasting room on Jay Ruskey’s Farm. wine market to the potential of the coffee market: “We are on the path wine was on years ago, so the hope is to grow as the wine industry has done in California.” like a fine wine. Originally from Gesha, Ethiopia (hence the name), An important part of this wine analogy is the effort California these beans have been grown with the most success in Panama, where growers are making to elevate coffee drinking to a farm-to-table senit has set high-ranking records in competitions since 2004, recently sory experience. Frinj Coffee’s Instagram includes detailed tutorials on selling for $1,300 a pound in 2020. These coffees sell well in Asian the proper equipment and ratios to achieve the perfect brew, which markets where the culture is accustomed to enjoying expensive fine makes sense if you don’t want to mess up that $20 cuppa! At this teas, as the Gesha bean has a lightly roasted, tea-like quality. A coffee price point, you don’t just grab a coffee to-go and gulp it down for a of this caliber is the only one that makes sense financially for Califorjolt of energy, you relish it, ideally slowly and in the company of othnia given the production costs, but it requires creating a culture here ers with whom you can extol the virtues of the different coffee notes, that appreciates premium coffee enough to pay the price.

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What Does California’s Couture Coffee Culture Look Like?

James Freeman likes to run weekly hill sprints on his property with buddies, then invite his fellow runners over to his “coffee shed” for espresso drawn from his enviable Faema machine, and “marvel at the vicissitudes of fate which brought us all to Ojai, sipping espresso, under these majestic oaks” overlooking the Topatopa Mountains and his coffee trees.

Lisa Tate and Shawn and Sarah Pritchett of Ragamuffin Roasters coown the California Coffee Collective which works closely with Rancho Filoso to host coffee harvesting events, tours and cupping events.

David Hertz also plans to invite people over to his “Xanabu” ranch for “coffee events” that involve learning about and tasting coffee on his massive deck made of fantastical gold and weathered teak, which is the original stage set from the musical The King and I. Jay Ruskey offers “exclusive experiences that will take you on a sensory journey of coffee and tropical fruit and give you a glimpse into the future of Southern California agriculture” that includes “guided tastings of Frinj Coffee’s specialty pour-over brews, pastries from a local bakery, and a guided educational ranch tour with multiple fruit tastings along the way.” These experiences are unique, social ways to take coffee lovers to the “next level” in their coffee drinking.

I’m somewhat ambivalent about California’s couture coffee culture. On the one hand, it’s luxuriously delightful, and Jay’s Gesha pour-over was the best I’ve ever tasted. I admire California coffee entrepreneurs’ efforts to treat farmers, and the land, well. On the other hand, like the wine movement, the price point puts this premium commodity out of reach for a huge percentage of the population.

Controversy over whether limited resources like water should be used on an exclusive product raises valid questions. We have entered a new era of catastrophic climatic shifts, and farmers are left with few options to maintain their livelihoods.

In conclusion, if couture coffee can keep California farmers in business, then I will indulge my coffee obsession and splurge on the $20 cup of gesha and guided coffee sipping experiences in paradise.

Who knows? Maybe sharing transcendental California coffee experiences with hyper-caffeinated friends will inspire more of the creative environmental solutions we need.

Edwin Slowik Board Certified Master Arborist

Consultation Tree Risk Assessment Tree Maintenance Pruning Fertilizing Planting and Removal

(805)652-0404

Our pruning standards are proven to promote healthy growth, strong structure and pleasant aesthetics for all trees. With our help your fruit trees can have better tasting fruit and more of it!

TreecoVentura@att.net

TreecoVentura.com

For more about California coffee growers visit FrinjCoffee.com, BlueBottleCoffee.com or CaliforniaCoffee.com.

Kim Master has been researching and providing creative guidance on environmental and health issues to private and public organizations for two decades. She co-authored Green Remodeling: Changing the World One Room at a Time, co-founded an organic coffee company, and secured her her BA in human biology and MA in anthropology from Stanford University.

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

Aphid Control

Ant Control

Fly Control

800-248-BUGS • 805-643-5407 • Ventura, CA

rinconvitova.com

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RETURNS TO VENTURA COUNTY fter a seemingly eternal five-year hiatus, the food, wine and brew event, Taste of Local, is back and better than ever.

This premier epicurean field-to-fork festival focuses primarily on bringing together farmers, chefs and community to celebrate the local harvest and diversity of great food so abundant in Ventura County.

Farm-to-table experts Totally Local VC are hosting the event on the beautiful ocean overlook at the Ventura County Credit Union Offices on Vista Del Mar Drive on Sunday, September 11. Over 50 area chefs, wineries, brewers, farmers and purveyors are expected to showcase their culinary expertise and all food and drink samples are included in the admission price.

W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G ?

This year’s event theme is “We are Different.” Guests will have the opportunity to meet and chat with the chefs, farmers and purveyors as they taste the wares.

LOCAL HOMEBREW CHALLENGE Totally Local VC is partnering once again with Ventura Independent Beer Enthusiasts (VIBE) to host the competition for Taste of Local’s Homebrew Grand Champion—selected by guests on the day of the festival.

If you are a homebrewer in the 805 and want to compete, just email homebrew@totallylocalvc.com.

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E D U C AT I O N A L W O R K S H O P S For the first time, Edible Ojai & Ventura County will be hosting the education tent, which will feature classes like Homebrew 100, Fermenting Nature’s Tonic and a Chef Demo by Julia San Bartolome, owner of Sweet Arleen’s and head chef at Oak Grove School in Ojai.

For class schedule and to sign up to participate, visit TotallyLocalVC.com/ taste-of-local-festival.

FA R M -T O - G L A S S M I X O L O G Y THROWDOWN Ventura County bartenders/mixologists will be crafting drinks using locally sourced ingredients and spirits by Ventura Spirits as they compete to create Ventura County’s first signature cocktail, aptly named “The Ventura,” which will be featured in bars and restaurants throughout the county.

Festival attendees will be able to samples and then cast their votes for their favorite cocktail and, along with professional judges, help determine this year’s Totally Local Mixologist of the Year!

If you are a bartender/mixologist working in Ventura County and want to compete in the Mixology Throwdown, email mixology@totallylocalvc.com.

Edible Ojai & Ventura County

G R E AT L O C A L M U S I C

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED!

Studies show that not only can sound set a mood but it can also influence the way we taste food and drink! Often dramatically.

This year’s lineup of local musicians will be announced soon.

Be part of the crew! Would you would like to help at the festival or any of the other Totally Local VC events this year?

GIVING BACK Proceeds of the festival will benefit Totally Local VC Agricultural Education Foundation. Totally Local VC is a collaborative initiative focused on promoting the importance and success of our local agriculture and business community. We are dedicated to educating our youth and community members on the important role that agriculture plays in the success of not only our county but also the world and the many links each of us has to agriculture. Simply put, we educate from field-to-fork and field-to-career.

Totally Local VC is a 501(c)3 nonprofit organization.

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

Please visit TotallyLocalVC.com/taste-of-local-festival and fill out the volunteer form!

BE AN EXHIBITOR! Apply for a free booth at the festival!

Email exhibitor@totallylocalvc.com or visit the website to submit a vendor package online.

Sponsored by

Taste of Local When: Sunday, September 11, 2022, 1–5pm ( last pour is 4:30pm, ) Where: Ventura County Credit Union Corp. offices 2575 Vista Del Mar Drive, Ventura Tickets: $75 presale $95 at the door $125 VIP (early entrance at noon) (Please note that this is a 21 and older event.)

For tickets or more information, scan the code or visit TotallyLocalVC.com/taste-of-local-festival

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edible Ojai & Ventura County

• European Tea Room • Over 130 Specialty Teas • Cream Tea, Afternoon Tea, High Tea • Bridal Showers, Baby Showers, Catering

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Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm 300 N. Lantana St. #37, Camarillo Tea-Liteful.com 805-445-8327 Call for reservations

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The Original Solid Copper Heat Diffuser, Defroster Plate & Oven Plate Copper conducts heat better!

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Fresh Nuts, Dried Fruits & Candies Huge Selection of Gift Packs 4475 E. Los Angeles Ave., Somis 805-386-1211 • 800-266-NUTS Open 7 Days

Advertise with us and watch your business

GROW! We have packages to suit your business. ads@edibleventuracounty.com

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More than 75 recipe for cocktails, appetizers, main dishes, and more!

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE AT WWW.PRIVATECHEFROBIN.COM

Edible Ojai & Ventura County

FORAGING Finds

Wildly Sweet & Savory The Prickly Pear

PHOTOS AND WORDS BY JESS STARWOOD

Jess Starwood, an herbalist, forager and chef based in Thousand Oaks, educates about wild food, herbal medicine and our natural connection to the land through what we eat. She has a master’s of science degree in herbal medicine and is the author of Mushroom Wanderland: A Forager’s Guide to Finding, Identifying and Using 25 Wild Fungi, available on her website. JStarwood.com EdibleVenturaCounty.com

T

he most commonly eaten cactus worldwide is the prickly pear (all Opuntia species are edible, though some are tastier than others). It is both a fruit and a vegetable. This cactus is widely abundant in many geographic areas, though they prefer arid regions like Southern California.

This popular plant is enjoyed and cultivated worldwide but can still be found growing abundantly in the wild. You may even have some already growing in your own backyard or in your neighborhood (be sure to ask permission to harvest if they are growing on property you don’t own).

Some folks are turned off by the cactus’s characteristic “slime.” While there are ways to combat this to make it a more texturally appealing meal, it is good to keep in mind that this is where all of the beneficial components are found and cooking heat will degrade those nutrients.

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SUCCULENT SALAD WITH CILANTRO LIME CREAM AND CREAMY PRICKLY PEAR VINAIGRETTE Serves 2

For the salad

Cilantro Lime Cream

Creamy Prickly Pear Vinaigrette

2 prickly pear pads (nopales)

1 avocado

½ cup hemp seed or cashews

2 teaspoons salt

½ bunch cilantro

1 shallot, peeled and diced

1 cup purslane leaves

2 cloves garlic

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

¼ cup diced red onion

1 lime, zest and juice

1 lime, juiced

1 cup chopped kale or other wild greens

¼ cup water

¼ cup prickly pear juice

½ cup sliced grape tomatoes

Salt to taste

1 tablespoon agave nectar

¼ cup shredded jicama Cilantro Lime Cream (recipe at right) Creamy Prickly Pear Vinaigrette (recipe at right) Prepare the prickly pear leaf (see “How to Harvest” on the next page) then dice into bite-sized pieces.

Toss with the salt and let rest for 10 minutes in a bowl. Rinse thoroughly and drain in a colander.

Combine all ingredients in a highspeed blender and adjust flavors to your preference.

6 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper to taste Combine all ingredients in a highspeed blender and adjust flavors to your preference.

Combine rinsed nopales with remaining ingredients and drizzle with Cilantro Lime Cream and Creamy Prickly Pear Vinaigrette and serve immediately. Raw prickly pear does not store well and should be consumed the same day it is prepared.

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Health Benefits: There are plenty of reasons to go to all the trouble to harvest such a well-defended plant. This cactus is hailed for its excellent and well-documented health-improving qualities such as high vitamin, antioxidant and mineral content including calcium, magnesium and potassium. The green pads (nopales) contain compounds that fight inflammation, high cholesterol, obesity and even combat hangovers—so don’t feel too guilty making the Prickly Pear Margarita recipe below. They also contain about 90% water.

If you have a juicer, you can make this cocktail with a little advance planning. Save and dehydrate the skins and pulp of some prickly pear fruits and then powder them in a high-speed blender. You can also make your own prickly pear syrup by combining 1 cup of juice and 1 cup of sugar. Simmer just until the sugar is combined with the juice.

For 1 cocktail Salt and prickly pear fruit powder mixture 1½ ounces tequila or mezcal 1 ounce triple sec 1 ounce freshly squeezed lime juice ½ ounce prickly pear syrup Wet the rim of a glass by running a lime wedge around the edge. Sprinkle the salt and prickly pear fruit powder on a flat surface and rotate the rim of the glass in the mixture so that the rim is lightly coated. Add ice cubes to the glass.

Combine the tequila, triple sec, lime juice and prickly pear syrup in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake vigorously to combine thoroughly, then strain into glass. Garnish with a slice of lime.

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

Blending academic fundamentals with the richness of the visual arts, drama, and music.

Preserving the magic of childhood in Ojai’s beautiful East End.

80 years of

PRICKLY PEAR MARGARITA

JOYFUL LEARNING monicaros.org

How to Harvest: Using leather gloves, a bucket and metal tongs, collect new-growth pads that are about the size of your palm. Beware that even though the young pads will lack the larger and more obvious thorns, they still have tiny hair-like spines called glochids that are difficult to see and are very irritating once they’re in your skin. Use the tongs to grab and twist the pad off of the supporting segment. If they do not separate easily, the pads are likely too mature to eat. Once in the kitchen, carefully scrape the spines off each side and trim along the outer edge. Once you carefully rinse the pad, it is ready to use in any recipe.

Prickly pear fruits are similar in their harvest. Collect them with tongs and, using gloves, slice off each end and peel the fruit. The leftover skins can be dehydrated and powdered. To make juice, place the fruits into a fruit press and strain the resulting juice with a very fine mesh sieve or coffee filter.

805.646.8184 783 McNell Rd. Ojai, CA 93023 monicaros.org

Pre-K - 3rd Grade • Summer Camp

SUMMER 2022 47

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Join thought leaders, writers, innovators, and industry experts in Denver as we celebrate 20 years of telling the story of local food and explore the ideas, challenges and changes that will shape our food

OCTOBER 1–2, 2022 | DENVER, CO

communities in the next decade and beyond.

For more information, visit edibleinstitute.com

Edible is pleased to announce Dr. Temple Grandin as our keynote speaker for this year’s Institute.

Dr. Grandin is a scientist whose ground-breaking work in animal behavior has helped shape standards of excellence for the humane treatment of animals around the world.

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

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ROBIN’S Recipes

PICNIC PERFECT PHOTOS STYLED AND RECIPES BY ROBIN GOLDSTEIN

WATERMELON & SUMAC SALAD When I was growing up, my grandmother always sprinkled a bit of salt on melon just before serving.

The salt brightens up the flavor of the watermelon and the sumac in this recipe adds a citrusy kick.

Serves 4 4 cups chopped watermelon, chilled 1 cup cucumber, peeled, sliced into half moons ¼ cup radish, thinly sliced ¼ cup red onion, thinly sliced ¼ cup basil leaves 2 tablespoons fresh mint 1 tablespoon fresh dill ½ teaspoon sumac ½ teaspoon sea salt Olive oil 4 ounces feta cheese Combine watermelon with cucumber, radish, onion and herbs in a bowl.

Sprinkle with sumac, salt and a generous pour of olive oil. Cover; marinate refrigerated for at least 30 minutes. Sprinkle with feta cheese.

Chef Robin Goldstein’s cooking career has been centered in California, where she has been preparing foods for 30+ years. She brings to the table a deep-felt art of balancing flavors while interacting with her private clients in their homes. She shares her delicious recipes through her popular cookbooks, perfectly paired for those who seek savory Mediterranean-inspired flavors. PrivateChefRobin.com 50

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Edible Ojai & Ventura County

SAVORY & SPICY GRANOLA This granola is full of wonderful flavors and is a healthy way to add that delicious crunch to salads, soups, veggies and more. Use what is listed or use whatever nuts, seeds and spices you like and have on hand.

Makes about 4 cups 1 cup sunflower seeds 1 cup pumpkin seeds ½ cup walnuts, chopped ½ cup pecans, chopped ½ cup cashews, chopped 2 tablespoons sesame seeds 1 tablespoon fennel seeds, ground 1 teaspoon ground chili powder

BABY BEETS WITH RASPBERRY-THYME GLAZE There is nothing quite like a sweet and savory salad to refresh your senses. Rather than tucking into a hot meal, eating salads is a great way of cooling your body to savor on a summer afternoon picnic or concert in the park. This beet salad with goat cheese, which pairs so well with the earthy and smoky roots, can be made in advance and offered straight from your cooler.

Serves 4 2 pounds baby beets, washed and scrubbed well Olive oil Sea salt ½ cup seedless raspberry jam 1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar ½ teaspoon sea salt 1 pint fresh raspberries, divided 2 teaspoons fresh thyme 2 tablespoons toasted walnut oil 4 ounces goat cheese Toss beets lightly with olive oil and salt; wrap in aluminum foil.

You can roast or grill the beets.

If grilling, use medium heat, close the cover and cook for about 25 minutes, until tender

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

and slightly charred. Or roast beets in oven at 350°F for about 30–40 minutes. The cooking time may vary depending on the size of your beets.

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes ½ teaspoon ground cardamom 2 egg whites* ½ teaspoon sea salt ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons maple syrup Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking pan with parchment paper.

In a large mixing bowl, mix together all the seeds and nuts with seasonings.

Whisk together the egg whites with salt, then the olive oil and maple syrup. Stir into the seed-nut mixture.

Pour onto the prepared baking pan and bake for about 30–45 minutes in the center of the oven, stirring 2 or 3 times. Remove from the oven when the granola starts to turn golden in color.

Allow to cool. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 weeks. * For a vegan version of this savory granola, replace the egg white with ¼ cup aquafaba (the liquid from a can of chickpeas).

While beets are cooking, stir together raspberry jam, vinegar and salt in a small saucepan.

Add in ½ the pint of fresh berries, stir and warm through for about 3 minutes, breaking up the raspberries into the glaze. Stir in fresh thyme and set aside.

Once beets are cooked, toss with the raspberry-thyme glaze, some walnut oil and the tangy goat cheese. Scatter the remaining ½ pint of fresh berries on top.

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FROM FIELD TO GLASS THESE DRINKS KICK A$&

You already eat farm to table, and with so many creative and refreshing options, why not imbibe locally too! Visit these local beverage makers to get a fresh taste of Ventura County.

Anna’s Cider No carbs, no sugar, no BS. 801 E Main St., Santa Paula

Lori’s Lemonade

@annascider | AnnasCider.com

Delicious, organic uniquely infused lemonades.

Casa Agria From our house to yours!

701 N. Del Norte Blvd. #360, Oxnard

1937 Goodyear Ave. #707, Ventura @lorisoriginallemonade LorisOriginalLemonade.com

@casa_agria | CasaAgria.com

Boccali’s Ojai Clos Des Amis Impressive wines from Ventura County grown grapes!

20262 South Mountain Rd., Santa Paula @closdesamis | ClosDesAmis.com 52

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Award winning estate wines from the Ojai Valley.

3277 E. Ojai Ave., Ojai @boccalivineyards BoccaliVineyards.com

Camarillo Cider House Hand crafted, small batch hard cider with all natural flavorings.

930 Flynn Rd. #F, Camarillo @camarillo_cider CamarilloCider.com

Edible Ojai & Ventura County

Edible Endeavor

BBQ’S IN THE HOUSE

BY LESLIE ARNETTE | PHOTOS BY VIKTOR BUDNIK

I

Chef Jason Ruffinelli shows the burger that got him the space at the Ventura Music Hall.

t’s the countdown: Three weeks until opening day of the county’s newest concert venue and restaurant, Ventura Music Hall, and where is Chef Jason Ruffinelli? He’s on a 14-hour road trip up to Eugene, Oregon, to further perfect his craft by taking a master class on sausage making. Spoiler alert: He made it to the grand opening on March 22!

Until now, as a catering chef, Ruffinelli has been preparing almost all his food himself, “with the help of my front of house, Daniel Sixbey, who handles customer relations and keeps things running smoothly,” he says.

“Most start-up catering companies begin with a canopy, move on to a food truck, and then the big commercial kitchen. I skipped that middle one.” Although his original idea was a small-plate food truck, he was still figuring out where to park his smoker when it all fell into place.

Ruffinelli was on break at his job at a local pharmaceutical company when he got the call in July 2021 that he had been chosen from about a dozen other chefs to move into the kitchen at the new music hall located in the former Ventura Discovery. Always moving forward with big Texas-style goals, Ruffinelli is excited about taking his backyard barbecue pop-up business to a whole new frequency in what he calls “the venue.”

WHY BBQ? “My mom was working two jobs to support my brothers and me growing up, so we spent a lot of time at my friend’s house. Their family was always cooking barbecue,” he says.

Barbecue represents community for him, and bringing people together with his family-style menu is right where he wants to be.

Ruffinelli’s goal is to bring quality to a quantity-oriented establishment, one day expanding to a full-service restaurant where everything is still pit-smoked and made in-house. “Scaling up” at the music hall is putting it gently. From sole

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Opposite: Jess Modzelewski, the Awkward Pastry Chef, and assistant baker Justine pose with cakes that are available through Ruff House BBQ.

the little guy is more necessary than ever.” In line with that philosophy, he has partnered with local pastry artist Jess Modzelewski of Awkward Pastry and she is bringing in not-so-awkward cakes, cookies and more.

COOKING THROUGH ADVERSITY

cook/chef/creator to head chef with a crew of prep cooks, dishwashers and runners is no easy leap. The chef seems unfazed by it, however, and is going at this with all he has.

“Quality comes first. Our meat is sourced from small family farms and slow-cooks for hours in the 14-foot converted propane tank wood smoker out back, which burns local sustainably sourced white oak for flavor,” says Ruffinelli.

The burger that won over the hearts and mouths of the Music Hall’s investors is made of a house-ground blend of Angus chuck, brisket and pork. Ruffinelli renders his own tallow from brisket trimmings to season the house-made flour tortillas for the pulled-pork taco. His pickle recipe—a modified version of his grandmother’s— includes a salt soak for the fresh cucumbers and a turmeric, clove, mustard seed spice blend with fresh Fresno chilis and sweet onion.

He is also serving up a couple indulgent favorites such as loaded tater-tots and Frito pie—both gluten-free—using scratch-made queso, smoked beans, pickled jalapeños and Fresno chilies. A choice of brisket, tri-tip, pulled pork or chicken, all smoked in house, are available to be piled on top. Vegan options include smoked cauliflower wings and the Impossible burger. On the list of specials to come later are house-made sausages and Cubano sandwiches.

After bringing his customers craft barbecue, Ruffinelli says his priority is “supporting other small businesses, [because] sourcing from 54

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Like most in the food industry, the last two years have been about change for Ruff House BBQ. “The pandemic was great for my business.

People wanted family-style meals they could pick up for dinner. We adapted,” Ruffinelli says, “and it was easier than traveling to a venue.”

But the real adaptation for the hardworking chef actually started in 2017 when Ruffinelli’s son Dominic, age 3 at the time, was diagnosed with a brain tumor.

“I went from working 70-plus-hour work weeks, being on call 24/7 and working onsite, to spending every hour of the day for months in the hospital with my son. The time I spent with him made me realize there’s more to life and I need to follow my dreams now,” he says. “He is good now; he gets yearly MRIs to make sure the tumor never comes back. He needed many therapies, and is still in speech therapy for the foreseeable future. He’s my hero.”

MUSIC OR NOT, THERE’S FOOD Ventura Music Hall has featured big names like Thievery Corporation and Gary Numan in the venue architecturally designed with acoustics in mind. Restaurant seating is in the same large room as the stage and general standing area. On non-concert days, the restaurant is open for pickup orders and dining in-house with online ordering.

With real wood-smoked Texas-style barbecue, live music and great beer selection, Ruff House BBQ at Ventura Music Hall is sure to be one of this summer’s hot spots.

For more information about Ruff House BBQ visit RuffHouseBbq.com.

Leslie Arnette, chef-owner of The Bread Box—a cottage baking business specializing in long fermentation, small-batch sourdoughs, bagels, English muffins and pretzels—is a lifelong Ventura resident. Hiking is her go-to whenever she is in a creative rut, and nature always inspires new ideas. Though her goal is to open a breakfast restaurant in Ventura within the next few years, for now she does office deliveries and pop-ups. Find her @the.bread.box.ventura Edible Ojai & Ventura County

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

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What’s in Your Kitchen?

ROBIN GOLDSTEIN

Private Chef and Author of A Taste of Ojai What is your kitchen style?

I guess a bit of traditional modern with a rustic twist.

What is your favorite kitchen gadget?

My Cuisinart food processor and my Instant Pot. I use them every day.

What is your absolute must-have pantry item?

Dried beans—I can make any dish from beans: soup, salad, a dip, a main course.

What is a favorite trendy tool?

Honestly, I haven’t bought anything new or trendy for my kitchen in quite a while, but I am considering a food cycler to reduce my household waste and break down/compost food scraps and turn them into fertilizer.

Most-used spice other than salt and pepper?

Toasted fennel seeds.

Tell us something about your kitchen that would surprise most people.

I have never owned a microwave.

(I don’t have a TV either.)

What ingredients live on your counter?

Lemons, ginger and honey.

Favorite local ingredient?

Pixie tangerines from Ojai.

Most used/favorite pan?

My three-quart All-Clad saucepot.

What is your favorite blade?

A new Messermeister offset serrated knife.

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Welcome to employment law.

Do not navigate alone.

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EdibleVenturaCounty.com

2 4 2 3 Ve n t u r a B lvd . , C a m a r i l l o , CA 9 3 0 1 0 (805) 383-9812 | wineclosetinc.com

SUMMER 2022 57

VENTURA COUNTY FA R M E R S ’ MARKETS

WEDNESDAYS

FRIDAYS

Midtown Ventura Certified Farmers’ Market Pacific View Mall (West End Parking Lot) 3301 N. Main St. Wednesdays, 9am–1pm (rain or shine) VCCFM.org 805-529-6266

Santa Paula Certified Farmers’ Market Santa Paula Train Depot, 200 N. 10th St. Fridays 3–7pm EnrichedFarms.com

Certified Farmers’ Market City Parking Lot Santa Clara St. & Palm St. Saturdays, 8:30am–noon (rain or shine) VCCFM.org | 805-529-6266

Simi Valley

SUNDAYS

THURSDAYS Downtown Oxnard Certified Farmers’ Market Plaza Park, 5th St. & B St. Thursdays, 9am–1:30pm (rain or shine) OxnardFarmersMarket.com 805-247-0197

Ojai Community

Farmers’ Market Chaparral Courtyard, 414 E. Ojai Ave. Thursdays, 3–7pm OjaiCommunityFarmersMarket.com 661-491-0257

Thousand Oaks

Certified Farmers’ Market The Oaks Shopping Center (East End Parking Lot) Wilbur Rd. & Oaks Mall Dr. Thursdays, noon–5pm (rain or shine) VCCFM.org 805-529-6266 58

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Certified Farmers’ Market Civic Center Plaza, 2757 Tapo Canyon Rd. Fridays, 11am–3:30pm (rain or shine) Facebook.com/SimiValleyMarket 805-643-6458

Simi Valley Night Market NEW

Simi Valley Town Center, Center Court Fridays, 4–8pm EnrichedFarms.com

SATURDAYS Agoura Hills At Whizin Market Square 28914 Roadside Dr. Saturdays, 9am–2pm @ccfminc

Camarillo Hospice

Certified Farmers’ Market 2220 Ventura Blvd., Old Town Saturdays, 8am–noon (rain or shine) CamarilloFarmersMarket.com 805-987-3347

Downtown Ventura

Ojai Certified Farmers’ Market Behind the Arcade at 300 E. Matilija St. Sundays, 9am–1pm (rain or shine) OjaiCertifiedFarmersMarket.com 805-698-5555

Moorpark

Certified Farmers’ Market 450 E. High St. Sundays, 9am–2pm EnrichedFarms.com | 818-699-6204

Community Market

At Oxnard College Campus Parking Lot Sundays 8am–3pm Maria_olivares2@my.vcccd.edu

Channel Islands Harbor

Farmers’ Market Marine Emporium Landing 3350 S. Harbor Blvd., Oxnard Sundays, 10am–2pm (rain or shine) RawInspiration.org | 818-591-8161

As details do change, please contact the markets and CSAs for the latest info.

These lists were updated May 2022. If you know of another farmers’ market or CSA that is not listed, please let us know at info@edibleventuracounty.com.

Saticoy Certified Farmers’ Market NEW Saticoy Park 11321 Violeta St. First Sundays only, 10am–2pm saticoyfarmersmarket.org

Westlake Village

Farmers’ Market 2797 Agoura Rd. Sundays, 10am–2pm (rain or shine) RawInspiration.org 818-591-8161

WEEKENDS Ventura College Foundation Weekend Marketplace Ventura College East Parking Lot Corner of Telegraph Rd. & Day Rd. Saturdays & Sundays, 8am–2pm VenturaCollegeFoundation.org Edible Ojai & Ventura County

Edible Edible For For Kids Kids

Can you help the bunny find the carrot?

Farmers’ Farrmmmeers’ Markets Markets Here are 5 true statements (T) and 3 false statements (F) about farmers' markets.

Can you tell which is which?

Farmers' Markets have been around for more than 5,000 years. T or F Markets are an important way for consumers to get the most fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables. T or

F

Farm Markets are usually held once a week in the same location.

T or F

Farm markets are a great place to get a cheeseburger.

T or F

Grocery stores are the same as a farmers’ market.

T or F

The markets are a very important way for farmers to sell their produce directly to the consumers (the people who eat it) who live nearby.

T or F

Some farmers sell their produce at several markets per week. Some are only in 1 or 2 markets.

T or F

Farmers take their produce hundreds of miles to sell at the markets. T or F

Exploring the Market Scavenger Hunt!

WACKY AND WEIRD:

EAT THE RAINBOW:

Find a fruit or vegetable in each of Find the funniest or most strangelooking fruit or vegetable that you have the following colors that you would like to try. Find out the name and price of ever seen. Draw it here: the product and write it below:

Take this list with you next time you go to the market.

Did you taste it? What did it taste like?

MEET YOUR FARMER:

Find a fruit or vegetable you really want to try. Ask the farmer three questions about the food. Write your questions and answers here:

Red Orange Yellow Green Purple

TELL THE WORLD:

Take a picture of this page when you have finished and send it to info@edibleventuracounty.com. We will share your picture on Instagram!

Answers: 1. true; 2. false; 3. false; 4. true; 5. true; 6. true; 7. true; 8. false EdibleVenturaCounty.com

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CSA AND OT H E R B O X OPTIONS The Abundant Table Camarillo Membership: open Price: $30/box TheAbundantTable.org

Harvest Gathering Farm Ventura Membership: waitlist Price: varies HarvestGatheringFarm.com

Blue Ridge Honey Ventura Membership: not required Price: varies BlueRidgeHoneyCA.com

King & King Ranch (Also provide to the Abundant Table and one smaller Ventura CSA) Fillmore Membership: not required Price: varies KingAndKingRanch.com

Corky’s Nuts Fillmore Membership: not required Price: varies CorkysNuts.com

Rio Gozo Farms Ojai Membership: open Price: $30/weekly or $60/biweekly Text: 805-272-5337 with “Hi, my name is ... my address is ... I would like to receive a vegetable delivery on ...”

Sow A Heart Farm Fillmore Membership: open Price: $50/box SowAHeart.com

Main Street Meats Ventura Membership: not required Underwood Farms Earthtrine Farms Price: varies by box Moorpark Ojai MainStreetMeatsVentura.com Membership: open Call a day ahead to order and Price: $45/box pick up at the farm, Tuesday, Novy Ranches UnderwoodFamilyFarms.com 9am–noon and Friday, 9:30 Simi Valley Membership: not required am–1pm.

Ventura Fresh Fish Prices: varies Price: varies based on Ventura NovyRanches.com your order Membership: not required Call: 805-421-8483 Price: varies OLAS Foundation & VenturaFreshFish.com Tutti Frutti Farms Farmivore

Since 1984

JohnNicholsGallery.com Vintage, Vernacular and Contemporary Photographs Custom Archival Framing

“Seed/Signal” by John Nichols

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117 N. 10th St., Santa Paula Hours: By Appointment or by Chance Phone: 805-501-7011 Located above the Santa Paula Art Museum

Produce from Baby Root Farm, McGrath Family Farms, First Steps Farm, John Givens Farm, Steel Acres, Poco Farm, Sol Y Mar Farm, Fair Hills Farm Camarillo Membership: $25 weekly (not required) Price: custom orders ($8 flat delivery rate) Farmivore.farm The Farmer & the Cook Ojai Membership: waitlist Price: $125/month Farmer-and-The-Cook.com

Certified Organic Produce Boxes Place order by 7pm on Mondays and Thursdays Price: $55 Text or call: 805-570-1638 or 805-794-1481 Prancers Village Ventura Membership: not required Price: $40/box PrancersVillage.com

The Ventura Meat Company Ventura Membership: not required Price: varies VtaMeatCo.com

Watkins Cattle Company Ojai Membership: not required Price: varies WatkinsCattleCo.com White Dove Farm Santa Paula Membership: not required Price: varies WhiteDovesFarmFresh.com

Get Hooked Seafood Santa Barbara/Ventura Membership: weekly pickup Price: varies GetHookedSeafood.com

Edible Ojai & Ventura County

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

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edible ojai &

CONEJO VALLEY Chocolatine French Café An authentic French café established in 2004 in the heart of Thousand Oaks, the family-owned spot pleases daily with breakfast, lunch and afternoon snacks of homemade quiches, sandwiches, crepes, macarons, coffee drinks and more!

2955 Thousand Oaks Blvd. | Thousand Oaks | 805-557-0561 | ChocolatineFrenchCafe.com

ventura county

Local Guide

NEWBURY PARK/OXNARD

to

Casa Agria A boutique brewery focusing on mixed fermentation farmhouse style ales, barrel-aged wild ales, and yeast-driven India pale ales.

701 N. Del Norte Blvd., #360 | Oxnard | 805-485-1454 | CasaAgria.com

Good Eats & Drinks Please visit our advertisers and let them know you appreciate their support of Edible Ojai & Ventura County.

They enable us to offer this magazine free of charge to readers throughout Ventura County.

Enjoy organic and thoughtfully blended teas, hot or iced, along with a modern twist on traditional tea bites at All Things Tea in Camarillo.

Contact us at ads@edibleventuracounty.com to join the guide!

OJAI Café Bōku Bōku is an Ojai Superfood Café offering sustainable, plant-based nourishment, smoothies and artisan coffee. Our menu and space changes as we go, evolving with the seasons and the needs of our thriving community.

987 W. Ojai Ave. | Ojai | 805-650-2658 | BokuSuperfood.com

VENTURA Paradise Pantry Food with a local emphasis, including great sandwiches, salads, mac ‘n’ cheese, gourmet goodies, a cheese counter and an extensive wine shop. Diners can also enjoy craft beers, wines by the glass or wine flights.

222 E. Main St. | Ventura | 805-641-9440 | ParadisePantry.com

Poseidon Brewing Company

CATERING

CAMARILLO

Private ChefCatering

All Things Tea European teahouse with certified Tea Specialist. Specialty loose-leaf teas from the finest plantations and gardens around the world. Cream Tea, Afternoon Tea and High Tea. In Paseo Camarillo Center | 300 N. Lantana St., #37 | Camarillo | 805-445-8327 | Tea-Liteful.com

Robin Goldstein is a California chef who works her culinary magic combining unique flavors and seasonal ingredients with classic techniques inspired by her extensive travel around the Mediterranean.

PrivateChefRobin.com

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A small, local, veteran-owned craft brewery making a variety of beer styles. Visit the tasting room or take a growler to go.

5777 Olivas Park Dr., Ste. Q | Ventura | 805-477-0239 | PoseidonBrewingCo.com

Ventura Spirits Since 2011, using the natural and agricultural bounty of California’s Central Coast to hand craft novel and delicious spirits.

3891 N. Ventura Ave. | Ventura | 805-232-4313 | VenturaSpirits.com

Camarillo Cider House Hand crafted carbonated Hard Ciders available on tap in the tasting room or for take home in bottles and growlers. Multiple flavor available from dry to semi-sweet.

Open Friday 4-7pm, Saturday 1-7pm, and Sunday 1-5pm 930 Flynn Rd #F, Camarillo | 805-388-3457 | CamarilloCider.com

Edible Ojai & Ventura County

NABU Wines A member of the Malibu Coast wine trail, NABU makes wine from Napa Valley to the Malibu Coast. Live music and wine tasting every Saturday & Sunday noon–6pm.

2649 Townsgate Rd. | Westlake Village | 818-835-3704 | NabuWines.com

Sage Plant Based Bistro & Brewery

Downtown Café by JL Family-owned restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner with a full menu of favorite hand-prepared dishes. Open 7am–3pm weekdays; 7am–9pm weekends.

221 West 5th St., Oxnard | 805-385-6300 | DowntownCafebyJL.com

Ragamuffin Coffee Roasters Family owned and operated coffee shop and bakery with ethically sourced coffee, gluten-free pastries and excellent service.

111 N. Reino Rd. | Newbury Park 805-375-9000 | 550 Collection Blvd., Ste. 130 | Oxnard | 805-278-5837 | RagamuffinRoasters.com

Tierra Sur at Herzog Wine Cellars

Boccali’s Vineyard Boccali Vineyards is a family owned and operated winery with a tasting room located right next to Bocalli’s Pizza & Pasta.

3277 E. Ojai Ave. | Ojai | 805-669-8688 | BocalliVineyards.com

Bonito Coffee Roaster

FILLMORE

SANTA PAULA

Roan Mills Bakery California’s first land-to-loaf bakery, Roan Mills grows the wheat, mills the flour, bakes the bread and makes the pasta. Stop in at their bakery in historic downtown Fillmore and taste the difference.

411 Central Ave. | Fillmore | RoanMills.com

Anna’s Ciders and Santa Paula Brewing Co.

Freda’s Wood Fired Pizza Delicious NY-style and brick oven pizzas, sandwiches and salads. Dining, catering, pickup/ delivery—and with two mobile wood-fired ovens, we can bring the party to you!

2024 Ventura Blvd., #114 | Camarillo | 805-586-4055 | FredasPizza.com

Loru’s Café Family owned and operated, offering freshly prepared cuisine including vegan and vegetarian.

Great selection of breakfast combos, sandwiches, burgers and dinner entrees.

630 Ventura Blvd. | Camarillo | 805-388-2395 | LorusCafe.com

Coin & Candor at Four Seasons Westlake Village A seasonally inspired California brasserie featuring sophisticated casual indoor and outdoor space with stunning views of the Santa Monica Mountains. The menu presents locally sourced dishes that incorporate wood-fired cooking techniques.

2 Dole Dr. | Westlake Village | 818-575-3044 | CoinAndCandor.com

EdibleVenturaCounty.com

Small-batch coffee roaster bringing generations of Nicaraguan craftsmanship to the Ojai Valley. Coffee roasted weekly. Visit by appointment.

406 Bryant Cir., Unit K | Ojai | 805-256-7873 | BonitoCoffee.com

Hard Cider Tasting Room in Downtown Santa Paula. Familyowned craft cider company producing dry & refreshing ciders. We serve food on our outdoor patio and are family friendly.

801 E. Main St. | Santa Paula | AnnasCider.com

Family owned and operated bistro offering dishes made from scratch with local organic ingredients and a full bar including craft brews made at their brewery in Echo Park.

5046 Cornell Rd. | Agoura Hills | 818-707-0300 | SageVeganBistro.com

Ventura County’s highest rated restaurant, offering 5-star dining at a stylish and modern winery. Discover nationally awarded local wines, exquisite cuisine, private tasting rooms and a gift boutique. Sunday brunch.

3201 Camino del Sol | Oxnard | 805-983-1560 | TierraSurAtHerzog.com

Sage Mindful Meals & Elixirs Offers beautiful outdoor seating nestled among the Arcade sycamores, happy hour in the lounge or a quick bite at the elixir bar. The innovative healthful food and drink menu highlights local, organic, seasonal and sustainable ingredients.

217 E. Matilija St. | Ojai | 805-646-9204 | SageOjai.com Currently closed. Stay tuned for reopen dates.

Clos Des Amis Hand-made here in beautiful Ventura County. Locally grown grapes, locally made wine. Visit the outdoor tasting room at 20262 South Mountain Rd. | Santa Paula | 818-231-2749 | ClosDesAmis.com

The Wine Closet Wine lounge in Old Town Camarillo, featuring unique wines, craft beers, small plates, lunch and dinner. Weekly happy hours and featured wine tastings. Indoor and outdoor seating. The specialty market offers retail sales of fine wines, craft brews, artisan cheeses and charcuterie.

2423 Ventura Blvd. | Camarillo | 805-746-5708 | WineClosetInc.com SUMMER 2022 63

LAST Sip

Super Bloom

BY PAUL JONES This cocktail is the embodiment of the transition from the “dark” winter flavors to some bright and refreshing summer flavors. The whiskey and saffron tea pair perfectly with the new Ojai Pixie–based liquor that was released by Ventura Spirits in May. Makes 1 2 ounces Johnnie Walker High Rye Whisky (or your favorite whiskey) ¾ ounce fresh lemon juice ½ ounce agave syrup (recipe follows) ¾ ounce Pixie Cello (if sold out, Ventura Spirits’ Limoncello can be substituted) 1 ounce saffron tea (recipe follows) Optional garnish: fresh or candied clementine Add all ingredients to cocktail shaker with ice, shake to combine, then strain into cocktail glass, coupe glass or martini glass. (If you are feeling a little more rustic, this also fits perfectly into a ½ pint Mason jar.)

Agave Syrup ¼ cup agave nectar ¼ cup water Add both ingredients into blender and blend until incorporated.

Keeps in fridge for 2–3 weeks.

Saffron Tea ¼ teaspoon saffron 2 cups hot water Let steep for 3–5 minutes.

Strain into small Mason jar.

Keeps in fridge for about 2 weeks.

Mixologist and Johnnie Walker ambassador Paul Jones started bartending in college but found his passion for locally sourced fresh ingredients when he met mentor Matt Biananiello, who helped him grow his fascination with high-end culinary techniques such as clarified infusions and sous-vide cocktails. He has been able to perfect those methods in local glasses first as bar director for Oak and Iron and now for Decker Kitchen, both in Thousand Oaks.

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LOC ALLY SO U RCE D · S E A SO NAL I N G R E D I E NTS · WOO D FI R E D “ T h e C o n e j o Va l l ey 's B e s t O u td o o r P a t i o D i n i n g ”

(81 8) 575 -304 4 EdibleVenturaCounty.com

COINANDCANDOR .COM

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Edible Ojai & Ventura County