Edible San Diego Issue 75 Keepsakes Fall 2024

edible SAN DIEGO

CHAMPAGNE BRUNCH ON MISSION BAY

Sundays | 10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.

Enjoy an optional add-on of free-flowing champagne and mimosas, and elevate your experience further with a live jazz band on the last Sunday of every month!

Waterfront Outdoor Dining | Mission Bay Views | Complimentary Parking OceanaCoastalKitchen.com | (858) 539-8635

A Many-Splendored Thing

Sabich, a simple breakfast sandwich with fried eggplant, hard-boiled eggs, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, parsley, and a generous drizzle of tahini sauce piled on toasted pita bread. Find the recipe on page 7.

Get ready to bejewel a citrus salad with pomegranates and find other foolproof tricks for fall’s freshest flavors in Farmers’ Market Box Basics on page 10.

• Living Local podcast

• Edible Communities Radio podcast available on ediblecommunities.com

• Baked Brie with Spiced Persimmons and Pears

• Pan-Seared Duck Breast with Glazed Sweet Potatoes

• How to Make Tom Yum Nom Khon

• Date and Tahini Power Snack

Autumn Leaves

When I was little, one hallmark of fall was whether our mom made us wear sweaters over our Halloween costumes. In SoCal, the Santa Ana winds are like the continent exhaling over our parched hills and valleys after a long, hot summer. Cool nights and winter rains beckon. In this edition, gratitude is the mood as we share with you numerous perspectives of people in our food system here in San Diego County, including just a few of the family recipes contributed by wonderful readers over the last few months. Thank you to Jimbo’s for sponsoring our Cook the Cover program.

Our regenerative journey continues with profiles of farmers and winemakers who are nothing short of heroic. Whether we are talking about growing grains, grapes, microgreens, or strawberries, our heroes keep learning and partnering as they steward numerous natural systems and steer their businesses forward. As residents or visitors here, how can we participate in this regenerative work? Directly purchasing some locally grown food when we can to prepare at home? Inquiring when we dine out about where eateries source their food? Helping make fresh, wholesome food more broadly available? Yes, yes, and yes.

As our thoughts turn to the holiday season, please keep in mind what a wonderful gift that subscriptions to this magazine make. Please patronize our advertisers whose partnership enables us to present you, dear reader, with the heart-centered, award-winning local food journalism you expect from us. And tell them we sent you!

We hope the experiences and recipes passed on and preserved here will inspire you and shine a brighter light on how interconnected we are through small, everyday actions.

Wishing you peaceful moments with these pages and loved ones.

Katie Stokes Publisher and Editor in Chief Edible San Diego

LAND ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Edible San Diego recognizes the Kumeyaay, Luiseño/Payómkawichum, Cahuilla, and Cupeño/Kuupangaxwichem people who have lived in relationship with the earth, flora, fauna, waters, and sky for thousands of years as the original stewards of this region. This publication commits to building greater awareness of and appreciation for the traditional ecological knowledge, wisdom, and experiences of San Diego County’s first peoples as an essential part of the health and vitality of our local food system.

EDITORIAL

Katie Stokes

Editor in Chief

Maria Hesse

Executive Editor

Dawn Mobley

Copy Editor

Liz Murphy

Digital Recipe Copy Editor

CREATIVE

Maria Hesse

Designer

COVER PHOTO BY OLIVIA HAYO

PUBLISHER

Katie Stokes

ADVERTISING

Katie Stokes

For information about advertising options, rates, and deadlines please contact katie@ediblesandiego.com.

No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2024 All rights reserved.

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere apologies.

This magazine is made possible thanks to Edible San Diego advertisers, members, and subscribers. Thank you for supporting San Diego’s local, independent, and woman-owned food media company.

CONTACT

Edible San Diego

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edible Communities

2011 Publication of the Year

edible SAN DIEGO ISSUE 75 CONTRIBUTORS

Emily Abrams is a Brooklyn-bred, San Diego-based private chef, food writer, and recipe developer with a passion for cooking creative, clean, and nutrientdense meals for her clients. She has worked in just about every corner of the food world, from recruiting for the Food Network’s Chopped to writing for the James Beard Foundation to performance cooking for professional athletes. More than anything, Emily loves to travel and explore through cooking with local ingredients. When she’s not in the kitchen, you’ll find her hiking, checking out farmers’ markets, and searching for the best hidden gems around San Diego.

Kenise Adams is a freelance writer specializing in raw vegan and living whole foods. She seeks to explore global culinary traditions and enhance her understanding of plant-based eating through her creative work. Kenise has interviewed California farmers for Edible San Luis Obispo and Edible San Diego, and written e-books on juicing, gut cleansing, and raw vegan recipes that include heartfelt stories and practical tips to promote health and conscious living through vibrant, nourishing food.

Barefoot Books is an award-winning, independent, women-owned and run children’s book publisher based in Concord, MA. Founded by two mothers in England in 1992, they are committed to creating visually captivating books that celebrate global awareness and diversity, spark curiosity, and capture imaginations.

Beth Demmon is an award-winning San Diegobased freelance writer, beer and cider judge, and author of The Beer Lover’s Guide to Cider: American Ciders for Craft Beer Fans to Explore. You can view all of her work at bethdemmon.com or on Instagram at @thedelightedbite.

Lauren di Matteo is a San Diego-based storyteller capturing the beauty of heritage and hard work, celebrating the inherent dignity of her subjects. She is drawn to stories of craftsmanship, sustainability, regenerative agriculture, and ethical sourcing, and is passionate about bringing those topics to light. Whether photographing a Michelin-starred chef or farmer in foreign fields, it’s the commitment to craft and persistence through hardship that inspires Lauren’s work.

Leorah Gavidor learned how to write an essay at age seven, and two years after she won her first essay contest. She is a contributor for various San Diego publications, including the Reader, Edible, and San Diego Magazine. Leorah grew up on Long Island (in a town famous for pickles!) and moved to San Diego at 18 where she now lives with her husband.

Olivia Hayo is a chef, recipe developer, and photographer. She has a master’s in food culture, communications, and high-quality products from the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Italy and lived throughout the Mediterranean for six years. When she’s not creating recipes you can still find her in the kitchen or at the farmers’ market. Follow her on Instagram @OliviaHayo or visit oliviahayo.com to read more.

Haley Hazell is a San Diego-based art director, photographer, food stylist, and recipe developer. She attended culinary school at San Francisco Cooking School and now resides in San Diego with her husband and daughter. For Haley it is all about balance—balancing careers, tastes, and textures. She loves to cook and eat with the seasons, letting the amazing peak produce from her local farmers’ markets inspire her recipe writing.

Liz Murphy is a local plant-based chef and sustainability warrior. Find her cookbook, Kitchen Contentment, at santoshanutrition.com or look for it in local San Diego shops.

Mary Papoulias-Platis is the California Greek Girl and owner of Ethos Culinary located in the beautiful city of Carlsbad. She is the coauthor of Cooking Techniques with Olive Oil and specializes in preparing Greek, Mediterranean, and plant-forward cuisines with California’s bounty of foods, farmlands, and culinary experts.

Julie Pendray has experience working in the natural resources and environmental field as well as moonlighting in the food industry and traveling for stories. She is a certified master composter, an avid gardener, and loves to learn about nutrition. She has covered California as a journalist for over four decades.

Alicia Pivirotto-Pearlman grew up eating from her parents’ garden and cooking in her family’s kitchen. She teaches cooking classes featuring curated menus based on seasonality and simplicity. She prides herself on sourcing ingredients from local farmers, fishmongers, and markets. When she’s not teaching, you can find her at The Vegetable Shop at Chino Farm, in her kitchen cooking for her family’s wellbeing, or on Instagram @aliciapivirottopearlman.

Luke Schmuecker is a creative director, photographer, and the founder of Farnam West Creative, a brand strategy and creative collective based in San Diego. He has worked on projects for everyone from Food & Wine to the Tennis Channel. In his free time you can find him wandering the aisles of grocery stores, analyzing branding, seeing what’s new, and trying to predict the future.

Katie Stokes is the publisher and editor in chief of Edible San Diego. She brings a love of family, nature, gardening, cooking, animals, reading, and travel to her leadership of a small team unified around the biggest of missions—raising awareness of regenerative living. Find her on Instagram at @katiefromediblesdmag.

Becka Vance is a North County San Diegobased photographer and artist. Drawn to organic expressions with a thirst to capture subjects as they reside, this passion has now fueled her for over 20 years. Her biodiverse upbringing and Amish roots lend her eyes of inspiration when in the field. She is thankful for the opportunities to play and create—after all, we’re all artists here! Follow her on Instagram @beckavancephotography.

Kari Volyn has been helping commercial fruit and vegetable growers (who supply restaurants and grocery stores nationwide) tell their stories for more than 20 years. She grew up on an organic apple and pear orchard in Washington State—so family farming is in her DNA—and started her career as a reporter for daily newspapers.

Lincoln Williams prepares the many culinary creations that can be savored at Jamul Marketplace. With nearly 30 years of experience in kitchens across the country, Lincoln’s culinary philosophy is about creating memorable dining experiences with fresh ingredients and quality dishes. Specializing in BBQ, carnitas, and steak (with a particular passion for crafting delicious soups), Lincoln’s expertise and creativity shine through in every dish.

COOK THE COVER

Three

keepsake recipes from Edible San Diego readers

GUEST CHEFS

LINCOLN WILLIAMS • MARY PAPOULIAS-PLATIS • EMILY ABRAMS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY OLIVIA HAYO AND BECKA VANCE

Deeply rich and personal food cultures continue traditions and evolve every day in San Diego’s home kitchens.

Connecting readers with farmers, fishers, ranchers, makers, and purveyors has been central to the ethos of Edible Communities since the first issue of Edible Ojai was published by Tracey Ryder and Carole Topalian over 20 years ago. For the second year, Edible San Diego invited readers to submit a family recipe that means a lot to them. Their submissions span generations and the globe.

We invited three local chefs to review all submissions and select one dish to test for this issue. Their criteria focused on the story readers shared about the dish, how easy it was to prepare, and how it featured local or seasonal produce. It was difficult for the chefs to choose only three recipes for print, so we look forward to sharing some of the other recipes in the Edible San Diego e-newsletter over the next few months (sign up on ediblesandiego.com if you haven’t already).

With appreciation to everyone who took the time to share a recipe—and to Jimbo’s for sponsoring ingredients—we hope you enjoy these dishes as much as we do.

Recipe submissions are tested and published as prepared by guest chefs.

is the proud food sponsor of Cook the Cover.

Above: Ingredients and recipes staged for cooking to begin. Right: Chefs Emily Abrams, Lincoln Williams, and Mary Papoulias-Platis helped select and test three reader recipes.

BECKA VANCE.

BECKA VANCE

SABICH

Cover winning recipe submitted by Shani Abed

Tested by Mary Papoulias-Platis

Our cherished family tradition, brought from generations of Jewish Iraqis to Israel, centers around our vibrant sabich brunch gatherings. Each member of our extended family eagerly anticipates these gatherings, where we come together to share stories, laughter, and of course, delicious sabich—a culinary delight symbolizing our cultural heritage. This tradition not only fills our bellies but also nourishes our bond, uniting us in celebration of our shared history and values.

Sabich

8 eggs

2 large eggplants

Olive oil

1 cucumber

1 tomato

1 small red onion

¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

Juice of one lemon

Salt and pepper to taste

8 pita breads

Tahini Sauce

½ cup tahini

½ cup water

¼ cup lemon juice

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon turmeric powder

Salt to taste

The night before, hard-boil eggs and refrigerate until ready to serve in the morning.

Slice eggplant into ¼-inch-thick steaks lengthwise or into rounds. Heat a large

frying pan over medium heat with a healthy glug of olive oil until shimmering and fry sliced eggplant in single layers on both sides until golden brown, adding more olive oil as needed between batches. Set cooked eggplant aside on plate until ready to assemble sandwiches.

Next, prepare Israeli salad by dicing cucumber, tomato, and onion into a large bowl or serving plate. Gently mix together with fresh parsley and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Make the tahini sauce by whisking tahini, water, lemon juice, garlic, and turmeric in a bowl until smooth. Season with salt to taste. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 4 days. Bring to room temperature and stir to combine before serving.)

Peel and slice or quarter hard-boiled eggs. Toast pita breads in a skillet on both sides until warm. Assemble the sabich by layering the pita with fried eggplant, sliced eggs, and Israeli salad, then drizzle with tahini sauce. Fold the pita in half and serve.

OLIVIA HAYO

CALDO DE QUESO Y PAPAS

Recipe submitted by Cassandra Smith

Tested by Emily Abrams

This cheese and potato soup recipe comes from Sonora, Mexico, and was passed down from my great-grandmother. A comfort food for the soul, this soup is a great combination of savory and fresh ingredients and is truly unlike any soup I’ve ever tried in the States.

3 Anaheim peppers

2 tablespoons avocado oil (or vegetable oil or olive oil)

6 potatoes, peeled and diced

1 large white onion, diced

8 cloves garlic, minced

8 cups chicken stock*

1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 cups heavy cream (or 2 cans Media Crema)

2 cups tomato sauce

1 cup chopped cilantro, divided

CHICKEN ADOBO

Recipe submitted by Angie Silva

Tested by Lincoln Williams

2 pounds queso fresco cremoso, cubed into bite-size pieces

Salt and pepper to taste

Tortillas, mayo, and salsa cocida, for serving

*Or substitute with 8 cups water with 8 chicken bouillon cubes

Preheat oven to 450° and roast Anaheim peppers, flipping occasionally, for 20 to 25 minutes or until the outside is charred and blistered. This helps with removal of the skins and adds a nice smoky flavor. Once charred, set aside in a bowl, cover with a lid or plate, and allow to steam for 10 minutes. Once cool, peel the skins and remove the stems and seeds under running water; roughly dice the peeled peppers and set aside.

Heat a couple of tablespoons of avocado oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the peeled potatoes to the skillet and cook halfway through, then remove from the pan and set aside.

Add half of the onion, half of the garlic, and half of the roasted and diced Anaheim peppers to a large pot. Cook until the vegetables are softened and fragrant, then add the par-cooked potatoes.

Pour the stock into the pot, adding enough liquid until the potatoes are fully covered, and season with the dried oregano.

Bring to a boil, stir in one cup of the tomato sauce, and cook until the potatoes are tender and cooked through but still intact.

Meanwhile, in a blender, combine the remaining onion, garlic, diced Anaheim peppers, one cup of cream, one cup of tomato sauce, and ¼ cup of chopped cilantro. Blend until smooth. Pour the blended soup base into the pot with the cooked potatoes. Stir well to combine and simmer the soup for a few more minutes to meld the flavors together.

Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Add the remaining cilantro, cream, and cubed queso fresco cremoso and stir to combine.

Serve this Sonoran potato and cheese soup hot and enjoy with a fresh corn tortilla with some mayonesa (Mexican-style mayonnaise), and, for a bit of heat, grandma’s homemade salsa cocida.

This Filipino dish was always present at my Rivera family’s gatherings when I was young, no matter the occasion. After moving to San Diego and away from family, I longed to replicate this traditional dish to serve to my own family. I reconnected with my niece, Paula, who was live-streaming this very recipe one day. I took her ladle of this and handfuls of that and was able to recreate it and make it my own. It’s now a staple that I love to make for my family and friends. It’s always a hit at home and at potlucks! Be sure to serve it with lots of steamed white rice.

3–4 pounds chicken thighs*

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons neutral oil, divided (we go with avocado oil)

2 cups julienned yellow onions

3 tablespoons chopped garlic

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger (from about a ¾-inch piece)

2 dried bay leaves

¼ cup regular soy sauce

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce (for color)

2 teaspoons white sugar

2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns**

½ cup apple cider vinegar

¼–½ cup water (to cover at least ¾ inch)

Cooked rice, for serving

*Either whole chicken thighs or boneless skinless will work in this recipe

**Whole peppercorns can be added in a tea sachet if desired Lightly salt and pepper chicken thighs on all sides. Heat a large shallow pot over medium heat and add just enough oil to coat. Brown chicken 3 to 5 minutes on each side, then set aside on a platter.

In the same pot, sauté onions in remaining oil over medium heat until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, then add ginger.

Add the chicken back to the pot with the remaining adobo ingredients; bring to a boil.

Lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 45 to 50 minutes, turning the chicken once halfway through. Uncover and continue cooking for an additional 10 minutes to caramelize the broth.

Remove bay leaves before serving and enjoy with steamed rice.

OLIVIA HAYO

FARMERS’ MARKET BOX BASICS

Three recipes with endless possibilities

BY ALICIA PIVIROTTO-PEARLMAN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY HALEY HAZELL

I’ve picked up this box—now what do I do with it?

Opening a big box full of fresh fruits and vegetables can be intimidating: not knowing what to expect, how and where to store them, and deciding what to make using them. While these are valid concerns, the immediate satisfaction of consuming seasonal produce is worth it.

I was offered the opportunity to test a fall farmers’ market box from Specialty Produce and couldn’t resist. Here’s my step-by-step guide to maximizing a fall produce box, plus a few tips and recipes from a veggie-loving home chef.

The most obvious thing you will do when you first bring home your farmers’ market box is open it. I must warn you though, you may be in for a sensory overload. Clear a space on your counter or kitchen table and pull out what’s inside. I like to separate my fruits from my veggies, then group them by what I know will likely spoil quickly. That’s how I determine what type of dish to make first.

I check my refrigerator and pantry, and I know that I (almost) always have eggs, a loaf of bread, butter, extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, garlic, salt, pepper, fresh herbs from the garden, and some good cheese. Keeping as many of these staples on hand as possible makes it easier to create diverse dishes.

With these staples, I can plan to make at least three dishes with the ingredients in my farmers’ market box: a frittata, bruschetta, and a glorious salad. The produce in these three recipes can be swapped out depending on the season and what’s included in your farm box.

If I know what produce I’m not using immediately, I take the time to properly store it. I heed the advice of my rarely wasteful mom,

who frequently reminds me, “never in plastic.” Fortunately, one benefit of purchasing a farmers’ market box is that your produce is not packaged in a lot of plastic. I wait to wash my produce until I’m ready to use it and wrap items in either paper towels or clean kitchen towels, keeping certain things refrigerated as needed until I’m ready to cook with them. I find once produce is washed, the countdown clock to eat it starts ticking.

When it’s time to wash the produce, don’t be alarmed if it’s quite dirty and comes with a few bugs or stowaways as I like to call them. To conserve water, I typically fill a large bowl or side of my sink and let certain produce, like lettuce, carrots, and potatoes, soak for three to five minutes. I use my hands to scrub off the dirt as best I can, and I often have to repeat soaking up to three times to completely clean the produce. If you’re lucky enough to have carrots in your farm box, consider not peeling them; a lot of nutrients are found in the skin of produce, which is something to keep in mind about edible skin fruits and veggies such as apples, carrots, and persimmons.

Once cut and washed, I store any leftover produce in glass jars or containers with a paper towel at the bottom to catch excess moisture.

I organize my produce not only by what dishes I make, but also by what makes a good healthy snack. I like to have items like fresh fruit or carrots washed and accessible. A bowl filled with fruit on your counter is beautiful, but when your produce is next to each other, it will all spoil sooner. The fall in San Diego can be toasty, so if your house gets warm, relocate your produce to the fridge.

Though summer is always touted as a fabulous season for fresh produce, let’s not underestimate the delights of the fall season and the bountiful produce that comes with it.

The Specialty Produce team gathers premium fruits and vegetables from some of California’s finest growers into a once-weekly Farmers’ Market Box. Preorder by Sunday for Thursday pickup with customizable add-ons including eggs from Eben-Haezer Egg Ranch and pantry staples from local vendors like Dark Horse Coffee Roasters, Eclipse Chocolate, and Jackie’s Jams.

» specialtyproduce.com/fmb

BRUSCHETTA

½ loaf sourdough or French baguette

2–3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3–4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

2 large tomatoes (heirloom or Roma is best), diced

⅓ cup fresh basil leaves, finely chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

½ cup burrata cheese

Preheat oven to 425°.

Cut baguette with a serrated knife on an angle into ½-inch slices. Spread ¼ teaspoon of olive oil and desired amount of garlic on each piece. (I use about a third of the minced garlic.)

Place parchment paper on a baking sheet and lay bread slices on top. Toast on the middle rack in the oven for approximately 5 to 10 minutes.

While the bread is toasting, combine tomatoes, remaining garlic, basil, salt, and pepper. Stir to combine flavors and taste.

Once bread slices have cooled enough to handle, spread approximately 1 teaspoon of burrata cheese on each slice.

Evenly distribute the bruschetta mixture on top of the burrata and serve immediately.

FARM BOX SALAD

3 cups mixed lettuce, rinsed and chopped

1–2 carrots, cut into ¼-inch coins

1 spring onion, sliced

3 tangerines, peeled and cut into ¼-inch coins

2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds

Handful cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Salt and pepper to taste

1 teaspoon dried Italian herbs (optional)

Combine all prepared fruits and vegetables in a large salad bowl.

In a separate small bowl, whisk together olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper, and dried herbs (if using).

When ready to serve, pour the olive oil and balsamic mixture over the salad and mix using salad servers. Taste and add more dressing if desired.

FRITTATA WITH ROASTED POTATOES

FRITTATA

5 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1–2 seasonal squash, cut into ¼-inch coins, about 4 cups

½ cup broccolini florets and leaves

8 large eggs

1 cup grated parmesan cheese

Salt and pepper to taste

ROASTED POTATOES

2 pounds potatoes*, scrubbed and cut into 1-inch cubes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons fresh rosemary (can also use dried), finely chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

*Any variety: fingerlings, Yukon Gold, red potatoes, sweet potatoes, etc.

Make the frittata: Preheat oven to 325°. In a large frying pan over medium heat, sauté garlic in 1 tablespoon of butter and ¼ cup of olive oil.

When garlic begins to turn golden, approximately 2 minutes, mix in the squash and broccolini florets. When the squash starts to soften, add in broccolini leaves. Sauté, stirring consistently, until the squash softens and the flavors are cooked together, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool for at least 5 minutes.

Crack the eggs into a medium mixing bowl and whisk until yolks and egg whites are blended.

Using a large spoon, carefully transfer the sautéed garlic, squash, and broccolini into the eggs. Do not pour the mixture in because you want to limit the amount of oil you allow into the egg mixture.

Gradually add 1 cup of parmesan cheese to the squash and egg mixture. Stir carefully. Add salt and pepper.

Grease a round cake pan with the remaining butter and pour in egg mixture.

Bake until the frittata is no longer runny, around 25 minutes.

Make the potatoes: Preheat oven to 400°. In a large mixing bowl, toss potatoes, olive oil, garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Transfer seasoned potatoes onto a baking sheet, making sure to scrape out any remaining mixture over the potatoes. Bake, turning occasionally to ensure potatoes cook evenly, until browned and tender through the center, 20 to 30 minutes.

Frittata can be cut into wedges and served hot or cold with roasted potatoes.

FRED’S URBAN FARM STAND

This Spring Valley farm went from growing 10 trays of microgreens in a closet to 500+ with a convenient farm stand

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY

BY KENISE ADAMS

The story of Fred’s Urban Farm is one of innovation, resilience, and a passion for fresh, local produce. Established by Robin Kanzius, a former science teacher, and her son Kellen Kanzius, the farm and its renowned farm stand emerged amidst the challenges of the 2020 pandemic.

PLANTING THE SEEDS

Robin and Kellen’s journey began unexpectedly. “When my brother was here, we were looking to start our next journey and decided to visit a microgreens operation at a farmers’ market in Washington,” Robin recalls. This encounter sparked an idea. “We have this beautiful property here,” she thought. Despite their initial lack of farming experience, they devoted themselves to learning everything about growing microgreens. They started small, with only 10 trays in their home closet, and soon realized the potential of their endeavor.

Fast forward to today, their humble beginnings have blossomed into a community-centered business, with their microgreens available in 11 grocery stores across San Diego County. More so, their farm stand has become a Spring Valley attraction.

THE POWER OF MICROGREENS

The farm’s flagship product, microgreens, fall between a sprout and a baby green in size and are impressive nutritional powerhouses. “A handful of broccoli microgreens is equivalent to the nutritional value of a whole head of broccoli,” Robin explains, underscoring their value in a balanced diet. The farm stand offers a mix of microgreens, including fenugreek,

sunflower, radish, kale, and peas, all ideal for enhancing any meal.

FRESHNESS AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

What sets Fred’s Urban Farm apart is its commitment to freshness. “Everything we sell at the farm stand was either harvested or produced that same week,” Kellen explains. This emphasis on fresh, locally grown produce ensures that the community receives the highest quality. In contrast to supermarkets where produce travels from hundreds or even thousands of miles away, the food from the farm stand travels from the backyard farm to the front-of-the-yard farm stand and is restocked daily.

NAVIGATING THE FARM STAND

For those new to the farm stand, Robin and Kellen have designed an easy and convenient shopping experience. Inside, customers will find a variety of goods, including their popular microgreens salad, seasonal vegetables, and locally sourced produce and products. Robin mentions, “We also offer bread from a local vendor, sweet cakes, snacks, eggs, and more—all to make a complete meal.”

» fredsurbanfarm.com

There’s more to this story. Scan the QR code to watch the interview and read about What’s Growing at Fred’s Urban Farm. 

FALL COOKBOOK CLUB

TWO LOCAL WRITERS MAKE SOMETHING BIG

San Diego Cooks

By Ligaya Malones

It’s taken local writer Ligaya Malones five years to create San Diego Cooks: Recipes from the Region’s

Favorite Eateries, Bakeries, and Bars (Figure 1, 2024). A compendium of not only where to eat but what to make, this cookbook offers us home cooks a chance to whip up Scallop and Pork Jiaozi like Jacob Jordan and Nicholas Webber, the chef duo behind microseasonal Chinese pop-up 24 Suns. Or try our hands at an Albacore “en Escabeche” from A.R. Valentien’s executive chef Kelli Crosson. Or bake a Lemon Meringue Cake while pretending the queen of Extraordinary Desserts, Karen Krasne herself, is in the kitchen with us. With vibrant imagery by photographer Deanna Sandoval showcasing regional ingredients, this is a cookbook that feels like home. Available for preorder through November.

» figure1publishing.com/book/san-diegocooks

Pretty Simple Cocktails

By Julianna McIntosh

Shake things up in your cocktail routine and crack open

Julianna McIntosh’s new book Pretty Simple Cocktails: Margaritas, Mocktails, Spritzes, and More for Every Mood and Occasion (Clarkson Potter, 2024). A self-taught mixologist, McIntosh brings back nostalgic trends for crowd entertaining with punch bowl drinks and shares stunning ideas for craft cocktail garnishes. With recipes for seasonal syrups and shrubs, low- to no-ABV cocktails, and original takes on the classics, like an Olive Oil Martini, there’s something in this book bound to satisfy your thirst.

» penguinrandomhouse.com/books/734618/ pretty-simple-cocktails-by-julianna-mcintosh

FIVE CSA BOXES FOR FALL

INGREDIENTS FOR SOUPS, ROASTED VEGGIES, COOKIES, AND COBBLERS

BY JULIE PENDRAY

Subscribing to a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) program is next level. Farmers use the strategy of subscriptions to offer the very best prices on their produce while creating a steady income flow to grow crops. It’s a partnership in which customers can enjoy locally grown organic produce, know exactly where it’s coming from, reduce the carbon footprint of their produce, and support the hardworking people who grow fresh produce all year. San Diego County has several CSAs offering boxes of different sizes with flexible weekly pickup or delivery schedules. Some allow custom orders and special addons like honey, jam, and bread. Varying CSA perks may include access to recipe blogs, farming classes, and more resources plus farm stand markets for in-person shopping. Sand n’ Straw in Vista even invites people to meet their animals. There are also innovative models like Foodshed, a cooperative that sells produce from about 25 farms throughout the county and teaches people how to become farmers themselves.

LOCAL MARKETS GUIDE

Farmers’ and fishermen’s market listings for San Diego County

MONDAY

Escondido—Welk Resort √†

TUESDAY

Coronado √

Escondido √*

Mira Mesa √*

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista √

Pacific Beach Tuesday à

San Marcos √*

WEDNESDAY

Carlsbad √

Little Italy Mercato √*†

Ocean Beach √

People’s Produce Mobile Farmers’ Market Morse High School †

People’s Produce Mobile Farmers’ Market Mt. Hope Community Garden †

Santee *†

The most unique characteristic of a CSA subscription is that you never know what surprise might be waiting for you. Under the bouquets of carrots and lettuces, there could be flowers, fresh herbs, or some vegetable you’ve never encountered. Embrace it! The unknown can lead to new culinary experiments and sometimes new friends if you’re willing to talk about recipes with the farmers and other CSA subscribers at box pickup spots or on social media.

This season, deep red apples loaded with antioxidants might get you in the mood to enhance a bowl of overnight oats. Shiny orange persimmons may make you crave a creamy, healthy smoothie or a homemade batch of grandma’s cookies. Fragrant herbs could elicit dreams of finally taking the time to make your first quiche. The possibilities are endless.

Edible San Diego has compiled this list to help you on a journey to nourish yourself even more deeply. CSA box contents are subject to change. Contact each CSA for prices, box sizes, and other details. Bon appétit!

Be Wise Ranch

» bewiseranch.com

Foodshed Cooperative

» foodshedcooperative.com

J.R. Organics

» jrorganicsfarm.com

Rodney Kawano Farms

» rodneykawanofarms.org

Sand n’ Straw

» sandnstraw.com

South Bay √

THURSDAY

Linda Vista √*†

North Park √*†

Oceanside Morning √*

People’s Produce Mobile Farmers’ Market ECC Campus †

People’s Produce Mobile Farmers’ Market Lemon Grove †

Scripps Ranch √

FRIDAY

Borrego Springs √

La Mesa Village √*

People’s Produce Mobile Farmers’ Market Four Corners of Life †

Rancho Bernardo √

SATURDAY

Cardiff à

Del Mar √

Fallbrook Main Street √*

Imperial Beach √*†

Little Italy Mercato √*†

Mission Valley à

People’s Produce Mobile Farmers’ Market Homie’s Lot †

Poway √*

Santa Ysabel √

Tuna Harbor Dockside Market Vista √*†

SUNDAY

ASCENDKemet Collective Certified Farmers’ Market of City Heights

Chula Vista √*

Fisherman’s Market of North County

Hidden Certified Farmers’ Market √

Hillcrest √*

La Jolla Open Aire √

Leucadia √*

People’s Produce Mobile Farmers’ Market The Mental Bar Point Loma √

Ramona √

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village √

Santa Ysabel √

Solana Beach à

LEGEND

* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children) Farmers’ Market checks.

† Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer).

! Market vendors accept WIC Fruit and Vegetable checks.

√ Markets certified by the San Diego County Agricultural Commissioner, ensuring that the produce is grown by the seller or another certified farmer in California, and meets all state quality standards.

All listings are subject to change. Please contact markets directly to confirm hours of operation, locations, and what benefits are accepted.

Bookmark the digital market guide on ediblesandiego.com for more complete information and links to market websites.

FALL WORD PLAY

4 Average grade

1 Fruits and veggies

6 Vineyard fruit

10 Zodiac sign

11 ATM user’s need

12 Controlled diet, e.g.

13 Turn red or yellow, say

14 Lodges

15 Pinot noir, for one

18 Dieter’s measurement, abbr.

19 Pie choice

21 Mickey and Minnie

22 Chairman pro ___

23 Apple throwaway

25 Compass point, abbr.

26 “Where the heart is”

29 Young’un

32 Chef’s phrase, 2 words

33 Fall crop

35 Plant anchors

37 Buddhist sound

38 Plant which produces grapes

39 Honeycomb, essentially

40 Fail to grip the road Down

1 Bright orange fruit

2 Natural, without any chemicals or colorings

3 German city—Einstein’s birthplace

5 Many, many years

6 Attend to a plot

7 Computer programs, for short

8 Thanksgiving dessert

9 Dignify

15 Drenched

16 Bar freebie

17 Appoint

20 Julia Child publication

24 Majority of Oprah’s audience

27 “Have some”

28 50-acre homestead, maybe

30 Apportioned, as medicine

31 Breakfast staple

33 Carpooling car lane, for short

34 Plant seeds

37 Animal used for ploughing in olden times

Carlsbad resident Myles Mellor is one of the top crossword and puzzle writers in the world. He has published over 55 crossword and word search books, producing dozens of puzzles each month.

» mylesmellor.com

» themecrosswords.com

Answer key on page 20.

SUCCESS OFF THE VINE

BY BETH DEMMON

Some of them were born to make wine. Others found their way there later in life. But there’s one thing they all have in common—working tirelessly to move the San Diego wine scene forward with care, community building, and confidence.

San Diego isn’t just a wine-drinking town. We’re also a winemaking town with two American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in San Pasqual Valley and Ramona Valley. With regions like Napa Valley, Paso Robles, and Temecula to the north, and Valle de Guadalupe to the south, local winemakers have had to work hard to make a name for themselves outside of these more widely known (and rightfully respected) regions. Meet five of the many pioneering advocates helping to bring the San Diego wine scene to the forefront.

THE TEACHER

Heidi Greenwood

Founder, Esquina Wine Shop and The Puente House

Heidi Greenwood launched Esquina Wine Shop in 2021 as an online wine retailer focusing on low-intervention wines, alternative packaging, and underrepresented producers. She’s also behind The Puente House, a consulting company that helps small businesses “bridge the gap of operational needs in international freight logistics, compliance, and business strategy centered around wine,” says Greenwood.

Analytics and logistics may not be the most romantic aspects of the wine industry, Greenwood admits. But climate change, weather patterns, and economic factors all affect how, when, and where wine ends up and how much it’ll cost. She believes people should know more than just the grapes in the wine, and it shouldn’t be difficult or expensive to find out. That’s exactly why Greenwood is also working with Chiara Shannon, Dan Valerino, and Master of Wine Martin Reyes to launch a free online educational platform called Somm Sustainability, with a goal to reach everyone—from grocery store stockists to aspiring beverage directors—to provide a comprehensive overview of the industry as well as the final product. Greenwood knows San Diego already has a great wine vocabulary. But we can go further. “We’ve grown so much,” she says. “I don’t want to see us plateau.”

» esquinashopsd.com

“I think we’ve opened at least a few minds to what can be done at a winery.”

—Suzanna Beltz, Oddish Wine

THE ADVOCATE

Teri Kerns

President, Ramona Ranch Winery

As the only certified sustainable vineyard and winery in San Diego County, Ramona Ranch Winery’s award-winning wines range from sangiovese to sauvignon blanc, all grown, pressed, fermented, and packaged without herbicides in order to fully encapsulate the terroir of Ramona.

As president of the winery, Kerns is the catalyst behind many of the winery’s sustainability initiatives; she also serves as the secretary of the Women’s Wine Alliance and the program and education director for the Ramona Valley Vineyard Association, and she earned a level three WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) certificate in 2024. All this comes after her service in the navy and a career in healthcare business development, experiences from which she draws inspiration to push the winery forward.

Kerns loves it when people enjoy their wine. But she loves it even more when they understand where it comes from. “Know where your foods—in this case, wine grapes—are grown, how they are treated in the field, and what makes them unique or special,” she implores, adding that San Diego has more small farms per capita than any other county in the country. That’s definitely something special.

» ramonaranchwines.com

THE EXPERIMENTALIST

Suzanna Beltz

Cofounder, Oddish Wine

“I’ve always been a fan of wine but never imagined I’d actually own a winery—I mean, that was always a bougie rich person thing,” Suzanna Beltz laughs. She’s the cofounder of Oddish Wine along with her husband Billy, who launched the winery two years ago after starting Lost Cause Meadery in 2017. She says that after half a decade of fermenting honey and fruits like prickly pears, blueberries, and cherries, why not give grapes a try?

She says their creative approach and efforts at expanding into vermouth and coferments have started to bear fruit. “I think we’ve opened at least a few minds to what can be done at a winery,” she says, adding that she hopes their wine menu, made entirely of San Diego County grapes, inspires people to explore the burgeoning local wine scene without having to head out of town. “No matter where you live in San Diego County there’s a winery nearby—even if you don’t know it yet.”

» oddish.wine

LUKE SCHMUECKER

THE BELIEVER

Denise Clarke

CEO, winemaker, and co-owner, Altipiano Vineyard & Winery

When Altipiano’s winemaker left to focus on personal ventures, it was a sign to Denise Clarke. “Somebody else was really doing our interpretation of who they thought we were,” she explains. She sat down with her husband and decided, at age 54, to take over winemaking operations at Altipiano. “That took a lot of guts to do something like that, because I didn’t have a track record,” she laughs. “But [with] the encouragement from some of the folks I’d met early on, I knew in my gut that I was making the right decision.”

Was she afraid? Certainly. Did she make mistakes? Absolutely. But by surrounding herself with smart people who could give her truthful advice, Clarke found the courage to write her own story through wine and eventually share it with her local community— one that’s supported her from day one. “It’s just like having this extended family,” she says. “You can’t do this business by yourself.”

» altipianovineyard.com

THE SCHOLAR

Lisa Redwine

General manager and wine director, Burtech Family Vineyard

Despite her name, Redwine was interested in cooking long before she turned to wine. “My maternal grandmother was an amazing cook, and I developed my love of food, wine, and hospitality from her,” she explains. Originally from Madison, Wisconsin, Redwine pursued an education in hospitality at the University of Wisconsin-Stout, earning her bachelor’s degree in restaurant management and speech, as well as graduating with honors from the Culinary Institute of America. She went on to earn the title of Advanced Sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers, and has worked as an advisor and instructor for the business of wine certification program at San Diego State University for nearly 20 years. She’s also the president and founder of the Women’s Wine Alliance, executive leader for SommCon, and was recently selected for the 2024 USA Wine Tasting Team.

While she has plenty of history across the United States wine scene, she still calls San Diego home. “San Diego [is] a tight-knit wine community, where we work together to make us all better,” Redwine says, adding that she only got to where she is today with open-mindedness and hard work. And after more than 25 years in the industry, she’s happy to share her knowledge with the next generation. <

» burtechfamilyvineyard.com

LAUREN DI MATTEO

Denise Clarke (left) and Lisa Redwine at Altipiano Vineyard & Winery.

T he Makings of a Meal

BY KARI VOLYN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LUKE SCHMUECKER

While our country may feel polarized at times, food remains a place people can come together to learn about each other and their cultures.

That was teacher Grace D’Antuono’s hypothesis when she created a hands-on project for her seventh-grade humanities students at High Tech Middle Chula Vista.

“We are a project-based learning school,” D’Antuono says. “We try to be nontraditional and create a fun learning environment for students.”

The project, Makings of a Meal, is divided into three units over the course of a semester and asks: What do we eat? How is it produced? How does it arrive at our tables? These are complicated concepts for 12-year-olds when combined with challenging environmental and food justice issues.

Upon completion of the three units, the students hold an exhibition to share their discoveries with friends and family.

Adriana, 12, says, “I learned that food has a story. I liked this project because we went below the surface. Now we know there is more to a dish and how it gets to the grocery store; we went deeper.”

Adriana speaks three languages—Spanish, Korean, and English— and says her father crosses the border daily.

The seventh-grade class reflects changing American demographics: 49% are Hispanic/Latinx; 25% are Asian/Pacific Islander; 17% are Indigenous; 12% are white; and 7% are Black.

Given the diversity of her students, D’Antuono started the project

with a case study that looked at food as part of culture. Unit one explored the history of the Kumeyaay, the first people to live in our region. The Kumeyaay fished, hunted deer and other animals, and were known for basket weaving and pottery. They had sophisticated practices in agriculture and animal husbandry, maintained wild animal stocks, controlled erosion and overgrowth, built dams, managed watersheds, and stored groundwater before being the first to meet Spanish colonial fleets who sailed into what is now San Diego Harbor back in 1542.

Dylan, 12, says, “They [the Kumeyaay] ate squirrels, acorns, and fish until the Spanish invaders came and enslaved them. Americans put [them] on reservations, gave them rations, and introduced sugar to their diets. Before long, their food was forgotten and [also] part of their identity.”

The students’ experience with food at home helped shape this part of the project, D’Antuono says. Many students help with cooking and say they have a specific dish that tells the story of who their family is and how they celebrate special events. In Adriana’s family, for example, Bistec Koreana is a dish that reflects her MexicanKorean background. D’Antuono shares her background as an Italian American through a recipe for gnocchi that the students tried to make in class. Mikey, 12, says, “It didn’t really turn out.”

The next classroom cooking experience fared better. The students were divided into groups to make familiar brunch dishes: scrambled eggs, bacon and toast, pancakes, and fruit salad.

Other students worked on a geography and math problem, researching the brunch ingredients, such as where the pigs for the

bacon were raised and processed and how many miles they traveled to reach Chula Vista.

In the second unit, the students further studied where food comes from and how we are connected to food origins, including an in-depth look at the history and untold stories of the United Farm Workers movement in California.

“Food origins are important to teach because so often we forget that other hands have touched our food before our own,”

D’Antuono says. “We might think of a farm or a factory where food is washed and processed, but how often do we truly stop to think about the person who harvested our food or the hard work that went into planting the ingredients of what we eat.”

In the final unit, the students learned about the nuances of food access. To make the concept come alive, the students spent a morning at Coastal Roots Farm in Encinitas where they were divided into small groups to complete a cooking challenge. Some of the groups received partial ingredients, tools, and directions to make a salad. Other groups received a limited set of tools and no instructions, and one group received everything needed to complete the assignment.

After the salads were completed and tasted, the students discussed the concept of food inequality and that it not only means unequal access to food, it can also mean a lack of culturally significant foods or knowledge about how to use certain ingredients.

“Access doesn’t equal success—you also have to know what to do with the ingredients and how to cook them,” a Coastal Roots Farm educator said.

After a farm tour, the kids participated in a food mapping exercise where they drew maps to indicate where their school was, where their home was in relation to school, and the places they get food, including grocery stores, convenience stores, and restaurants. While many maps looked similar because the students attend the same school, the difference in proximity to food was a tangible example of food inequality and the existence of food deserts.

D’Antuono says an important part of project-based learning is bringing what her students learned to life for the larger school community. The Makings of a Meal exhibition and student magazine featured examples of their best work and discoveries during the course of the semester.

As part of the exhibition, chef Joann Stabile of Victoria Ranch Events created an in-classroom restaurant experience serving short ribs and polenta to the class, the school, families, and community partners in attendance.

“Chef Joann and two staff cooked a delicious meal for our restaurant experience at the exhibition. They donated everything, and they even brought cutlery and plates,” D’Antuono says. “It was so generous and really took our exhibition over the top.”

Similar to an actual meal, the Makings of a Meal project is made up of several ingredients: What starts as a lesson in humanities expands to incorporate math, geography, critical thinking, and collaboration.

“That’s what I hope the kids take away and [what] we are practicing in the classroom,” D’Antuono says. D

Just 35 minutes to the east of San Diego, quality, award-winning wines are being produced by over 45 boutique wineries, ranging from tiny “labors of love” to larger operations. All of which offer a unique selection of red wines, white wines, and even the occasional sparkling wine.

It’s that time of year. Any day now a farmer or a winemaker will walk into their vineyard and say “It’s time”. A year has passed. There will have been struggles and setbacks, but this moment is all about the optimism of this harvest. These grapes are perfect. It’s time to make wine. Delicious wine. Wine to celebrate with. Wine to toast family and friends. Wine that makes even simple meals special.

Come to Ramona and join us as we raise our glasses and toast to another harvest.

GET A TABLE AT CYCLOPS FARMS

Meet the farmer, family, and friends behind the rustic farm dinner series that’s become a playground for local chefs

BY ELIZABETH MURPHY PHOTOGRAPHY BY BECKA VANCE

In its original location, an ocean-view lot nestled in Oceanside’s Fire Mountain neighborhood, Cyclops Farms was the only sustainable farming operation in the area. Founded in 2015 by Luke Girling, an O’side native, Cyclops quickly became a food hub for chefs and locals. Now relocated in Fallbrook, Cyclops Farms continues to represent the spirit of sustainable, small farming, offering the true definition of a farm-to-table experience.

A self-proclaimed “dirt kid,” Girling has always had a love for plants and soil. He planted his first garden as a second grader in 1987 in the side yard of his Oceanside home. Shortly after graduating high school, he started working in the produce section at natural food store Cream of the Crop and eventually managed the department for over eight years. It was during this time that Luke learned about buying directly from local farmers, and his love for community agriculture started to grow. In 2009, Girling took a job working in the kitchens at Hill Street Cafe and the Fish Joint on Coast Highway alongside chef Davin Waite (who would go on to open Wrench and Rodent Seabasstropub and The Plot), giving him the opportunity to experience the restaurant side of our food industry. In 2013, he was accepted into UC Santa Cruz’s agroecology apprenticeship program where he learned sustainable farming practices that work in tandem with

nature. After a few more years in the restaurant industry, Girling, along with his wife Frances and two young children, was ready to look for land to start his own farm.

Girling signed the lease for the Oceanside location with the help of a successful Kickstarter campaign—a testament to the community’s support for his vision. By providing local fruits, vegetables, and flowers at a weekly farm stand and directly to chefs, the Girling family’s community agriculture business model played a key role in the area’s blossoming farm-to-table restaurant scene. Shortly after opening in 2015, his family was hit with the unexpected news that Girling had a large mass growing in his chest and would need surgery to remove it. Yet again, the community stepped up by putting together a major fundraiser featuring local chefs and restaurateurs, raising $20,000 to help with the medical bills. After recovering from surgery, Girling got right back to tending the farm, but staggering water bills made financial recovery for the business an almost insurmountable challenge. This led to the inception of the “water bill dinners” at Cyclops Farms.

Since the first event with Waite as a headline chef in 2015, Cyclops Farms has hosted over 80 farm dinners in Oceanside and Fallbrook, featuring notable local chefs, brewers, makers,

Above: Luke and Frances Girling with family on their four-acre Fallbrook farm. Below: Sights from monthly farm dinners where guests are served a family-style dinner prepared by a rotation of chefs including Davin Waite, Miguel Valdez, and Coral Strong. It’s the kind of experience where you can’t help but make new friends— and tickets sell out fast. Find info about monthly farm dinners at cyclopsfarms.com/farm-dinners.

“It’s hard to say if there’s anything I don’t like about farming…I like it all actually.”

musicians, and artisans. The dinners have become an integral part of Cyclops Farms’ identity and a wonderful representation of what true farm-to-table means to the community. At a dinner in June, Waite acknowledged, “Luke has always had one foot in the kitchen and one foot in the soil. He wants to know how we do our job so he can do his better, and he nails it every time.”

The struggle to keep up with operational expenses, especially the cost of water, is always at the forefront of the obstacles faced by farmers like Girling. Farm subsidies mostly benefit large-scale factory farming operations, whereas small, organic farms like Cyclops, who positively impact the way people view and experience our food system, have to fight to survive. But Girling makes it clear that he believes in the work Cyclops Farms is doing and plans to continue doing it despite the financial and physical challenges.

When asked what his favorite thing about being a farmer is, Girling goes straight to the heart of why he chooses to do this work: “When people have never had a real ripe strawberry before and I get to show them, just like another farmer showed me, it’s an epic thing. Creating relationships with people is my favorite.”

And his least favorite part? “Thinning carrots,” Girling jokes.

“It’s hard to say if there’s anything I don’t like about farming…I like it all actually.” What Girling truly doesn’t like is local farm and market politics, and chefs with egos. “We want to feed people, pay our bills, and do what we love to do,” he says.

Over the years, Cyclops Farms has had to overcome many obstacles that Girling and his family have met with perseverance and innovation. In the wake of a financial crisis, exacerbated by medical bills, the farm dinners were conceived. During the pandemic, Luke turned the Oceanside farm stand into a mini-market to support local growers and makers who had lost their weekly income. Now focused on growing flowers, strawberries, and other small food crops in Fallbrook, Cyclops Farms’ dedication to inspiring a healthy food system and fostering a love for local farming remains apparent.

“It’s been one hell of a ride. There’s been an amazing amount of bliss and some heartache, but that’s all business,” Girling says.

Girling’s chef friends show us how supporting local farmers and the important work that they do to feed and educate our community is imperative to changing our food system for the better. Make sure to grab some strawberries from Cyclops Farms when you come across them—they are something special. D

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Activities,

recipes, stories (and more!) created for family sharing

When Abuela cooks a dish called ropa vieja, Magaly scrambles to hide her old clothes before they end up on her dinner plate! barefootbooks.com/old-clothes-for-dinner

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds (1 kg) flank steak, skirt steak, or brisket

• 1 onion, sliced in half-rounds, divided in two equal piles

• 3 cloves garlic, finely minced, divided in two equal piles

• 1 large aji pepper (or other sweet pepper), cut into strips, divided in two equal piles

• 1/3 cup (80 mL) vegetable oil

• 8-oz can (220 g) tomato sauce

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1 bay leaf

• ½ cup (120 mL) golden cooking wine (vino seco)

• 7-oz can (200 g) red pimientos

• cooked white rice to serve 8

• optional: olives or capers

Ropa vieja

Recipe by Edible South Florida, adapted from Cocina Criolla and Cocina al Minuto by Nitza Villapol

Ropa vieja is Cuba’s national dish. It is traditionally made with flank steak and gets its name from the texture of the beef, which shreds when it is cooked. Ropa vieja is usually served with white rice.

1. Place the beef in a pot (or a pressure cooker). Add half of the onion, garlic, and aji pepper. Cover with water.

2. Bring to a boil, then cover and cook over low heat for 2–3 hours (or cook in pressure cooker) until the beef is tender enough to easily shred with a fork.

3. Scoop the cooked beef into a large bowl, setting aside the pot with the leftover cooking broth for later use. In the bowl, use two forks to separate the meat into fine strips.

4. In another large pot, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the remaining onion, garlic, and pepper, and sauté for a few minutes.

5. Lower the heat and add the beef, tomato sauce, salt, bay leaf, and cooking wine. Cook, covered, for 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally to avoid sticking. If necessary, add a spoonful or two of the leftover cooking broth to keep the mixture moist.

6. Remove the bay leaf. Drain and add the pimientos, and add optional olives or capers.

7. Serve over white rice.

Vegetarian/vegan option: Use a meat alternative such as soy curls, which come in pieces that look like ropa vieja. Soak an 8-oz package in warm water for 10 minutes, then drain the soy curls and start with step 4. Sauté all of the onion, garlic, and aji pepper at once rather than dividing them up into two equal piles. Use hot water instead of broth if needed to keep the mixture moist. Tofu or green jackfruit could also be substituted but would not look as similar to the shredded beef.

is created in partnership with indie, award-winning, Concord, MA-based children’s publisher, Barefoot Books. Learn more by visiting www.barefootbooks.com.

Wait, What’s for Dinner?!

Cultures all over the world have recipes with imaginative names that, like “ropa vieja,” describe what the food looks like on the plate rather than what it’s really made of.

Pigs in a blanket — a beloved breakfast treat and appetizer in the US made of a small sausage (the "pig") wrapped in pastry dough (the "blanket").

Ma yi shang shu (mah yee shahng shooh) — a classic dish from the Sichuan region of China. The name means “ants climbing a tree” in Mandarin, because the small bits of pork that cling to the noodles look like ants on branches.

Orecchiette (oh-rek-KYE-teh) — Italian for “little ears.” This pasta, which does indeed look like ears, is traditionally served with small meatballs and a vegetable-based sauce.

Buss up shut — a Caribbean dish, common in Trinidad, that means “busted-up shirt.” It’s made from a flatbread called roti (roh-tee) that has been beaten to pieces, making it look like a ripped-up shirt.

Lady fingers — spongy biscuits from the mountains of France and Italy. They are long and narrow, like fingers. There is a similar biscuit in Indonesian cuisine called kue lidah kucing (kooh-eh lee-dah ku-cheeng), which means “cat’s tongue biscuits.”

Spätzle (SHPET-sleh) — small dumpling noodles common throughout central Europe. Before machines, these little noodles were made by pinching a round dough ball with your fingertips. They were named “little sparrows” in German because their pointy ends and round “bellies” make them look like small birds.

Pico de gallo (pee-koh deh GAI-yoh) — a Mexican salsa that translates to “beak of the rooster” in Spanish. It is made with chopped tomatoes, onions, and spicy chili peppers. How it got its name is not clear. Some say it’s because it was originally eaten by picking the vegetables up with the index finger and thumb making the hand look like a rooster’s beak.

Buddhiya ke baal (BOO-dee-yah kay BAHL) — in India, the Hindi name for cotton candy translates to “old woman’s hair.” This sweet treat, which is made by spinning sugar in different shades (like pink or blue), is known as “fairy floss” in Australia.

Can you think of any other dishes that have interesting names?

Are you passionate about children’s books that prioritize diversity, encourage critical thinking, and teach kids to protect the planet? Learn more about becoming a Barefoot Books Community Bookseller! Visit barefootbooks.com/cb

COOKING AT RANCHO LA PUERTA

At the heart of our six-acre farm is our cooking school, La Cocina Que Canta (“The Kitchen That Sings”) where guests experience the magic of cooking with organic freshpicked ingredients via breakfast hikes, farm tours, hands-on cooking classes, Chef’s Table dinners, wine tastings, and more. Join us this fall to cook with Jocelyn Ramirez (founder of Todo Verde in Los Angeles) and Joe Yonan (Food and Dining editor of The Washington Post).

Rancho La Puerta Wellness Resort and Spa is an award-winning International Destination Spa in Baja California. Every week offers classes for your mind, body, and spirit to help you embrace all that you are. Join us for 3-, 4-, and 7-night stays!*

THE BAKERS AND THE WHEAT

Can local bakers grow heritage wheat in San Diego?

A version of this story appeared in

BY LEORAH GAVIDOR • PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAUREN DI MATTEO

From 9 to 5, Terry Ellis is an engineer for defense contractor Northrop Grumman. At night and on weekends, he’s the serious sourdough baker behind Black Hat Breads—and an aspiring grain farmer.

A LOAF OF BREAD FROM THE HEART

After searching in vain for a local wheat source, Ellis found common ground with Valley Center bean farmer Mike Reeske, who was cooking up a wheat-growing experiment with Sourdough Delight’s Noris Velazquez. Like Ellis, Velazquez bakes part-time; he’s also a martial arts instructor and is known as the “kung fu baker.”

“I seek out purity of ingredients, those that speak to my heart, and that’s why for 10 years I’ve been collecting heirloom wheat seeds— to one day plant and watch them grow, to learn from them, and pass on their radiant life force through a loaf of bread, from the heart,” Velazquez said.

Reeske shared his organic farming knowledge with the two bakers, along with a quarter-acre of his Rio Del Rey Farms. With 25 varieties and a $4,000 grant from Slow Food San Diego, the wheat experiment had its starter in January 2023.

Thus began a two-year trial to see which heritage seeds would grow, with rainwater only, in Valley Center’s soil and climate. As local growers face extremely high water prices, reduced irrigation availability, and ever-increasing land costs, Ellis and Velazquez hope some might venture into dry-farmed

wheat as a way to supplement farm income while adding nutritionally dense, drought-tolerant grain to San Diego County’s agricultural bounty.

STONE-MILLED SUPERFOOD

Artisan sourdough bakers like Ellis and Velazquez seek whole wheat flour from heritage varieties because it’s more nutritious and flavorful than the refined white stuff, and it gives their bread that chewy, dense, filling quality.

“Landrace” grains are varieties that growers adapt to local environments, optimizing water use, energy, and nutrients.

“Heritage” varieties predate commercial wheat hybridizations that started in the 1940s. The small-scale experiment on Reeske’s farm reflects larger efforts to revive heritage cultivars and build local grain economies.

Most modern wheat is a semidwarf hybrid, shorter in stature than heritage types, with shallower roots. It’s processed on roller mills that remove the most nutritious components—bran and germ—to make white all-purpose flour. Hybridizing also altered wheat’s protein and gluten structures, making it harder to digest and contributing to wheat sensitivities.

In contrast, “landrace and heritage varieties of grains . . . invest in deeper root development and have greater mycorrhizal associations, affording them vastly greater capacity to scavenge nutrients,” said Reeske. Nutrients are passed to consumers when wheat is stone milled, incorporating bran and germ into “true whole wheat” flour.

A 2019 review on health benefits of heritage grains concluded that “... diets based on ancient or heritage cultivars always showed clear

Baker Noris Velazquez and farmer Mike Reeske checking on the young 2024 wheat crop.

TWO HERITAGE VARIETIES GROWN IN CALIFORNIA

Sonora White

• Brought to Mexico and Southwest US from Mediterranean Europe in 1600s (possibly earlier)

• Grown in northern Mexico, California, and Arizona during mid- to late-1800s

• Good drought tolerance

• Prized by bakers for sweet, earthy, and nutty properties

• Lighter than other whole wheat flours

• Well tolerated by those with wheat sensitivity

India-Jammu

• Historically cultivated in Jammu and Kashmir, India

• Produces well under minimal irrigation

• Grows well in warm climates

• Desirable qualities for artisan bread-making

Source: UC Regional Cereal Evaluation Tests, WHEAT CULTIVARS FOR CALIFORNIA, Report revised 2011

advantages in terms of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities.”

“People who have gluten allergies tell me they can eat bread I make from true whole wheat,” said Velazquez. “I’m making sourdough with the intention of making superfood.”

But heritage whole wheat flour is hard to come by, “especially in 50-pound bags,” said Velazquez.

“Although California has more milling capacity than other states, it’s not set up for stone-milled specialty wheat,” said California Wheat Commission director Claudia Carter. And San Diego lacks infrastructure for wheat processing.

“I think more people are trying to do it; it’s coming. People get stuck on [the need for] combine [harvesting], threshing, cleaning. Establishing something like that here would be a huge incentive,” said Lauren Silver of Wildwood Flour in Pacific Beach, who mills flour fresh in her bakery. She buys heritage wheat from San Joaquin Valley and has grown a few test crops herself.

Heritage wheat is particularly well suited to Velazquez’s vision—a small crew harvesting and processing small batches. Its taller stature saves labor over modern wheat in two key ways: It crowds out weeds, reducing the need for herbicide, and deeper roots minimize the need for fertilizer and irrigation.

WHY DRY?

Waving wheat once stippled the sunny lands of San Diego County, but higher-value crops like citrus and avocado supplanted it. Grain is not a profitable use of the region’s expensive water—an acre-foot (almost 326,000 gallons of water, enough to supply two families for a year, or about a third of what Reeske uses on a bean crop) costs around $2,000 in Valley Center—hence the dry-farming experiment.

“We wanted to find out, is this feasible in northern San Diego County? Can this wheat grow without watering it?” Velazquez said.

Dryland or dry farming means growing crops using rainfall and residual moisture, positioning plants where water will flow, collect, and percolate—the way it was done before massive irrigation projects, when California was the nation’s breadbasket. As the climate changes, it’s resurfacing as a resilience strategy. Many landrace wheats are appropriate for dry farming: Longer roots access moisture deeper in the soil, increasing drought tolerance.

“Dryland wheat is likely to expand in California as scarcer water resources go to profitable crops,” said UC Davis agricultural economist Daniel Sumner. “It makes sense instead of leaving unused fields unplanted. In good rain years, it can yield a harvest; in dryer years, it can be used for forage.”

Above from top: Velazquez managing weeds early in the growing season; Velazquez admires wheat bouquets from the summer 2024 harvest.

GROW

Lucky for the bakers, 2023 and 2024 were not dry; both years saw 15–20 inches of rainfall in Valley Center, which is 150–200% above normal. Ideally, wheat needs 12–15 inches (avocado needs 40–50). Dry farming wheat in San Diego seems viable in rainy years, and studies show that adding just 4–8 inches of irrigation in dry years could be the sweet spot.

Furthermore, said Ellis, dry-farmed wheat could be a cover crop in winter months, “when most farmers in the area aren’t doing anything with their fields,” added Velazquez. Growing heritage wheat retains topsoil, develops soil structure, and improves filtration.

FRESH JAMMU

When the experiment began, before any wheat had sprouted, Reeske shared his farmer’s intuition for success: White Sonora and India-Jammu varieties. The first harvest, in June 2023, was all Jammu.

Ellis’s first Jammu winnowing yielded a precious handful of wheat berries to load into his countertop stone mill. The result is a sweet-scented, pinkish-speckled, hearty whole

wheat flour with an earthy taste markedly different from refined white flour. The engineer and baker parts of Ellis’s brain worked in concert as he sifted the fresh flour through his fingers.

“I can tell customers, ‘This bread is made with 10% locally grown and milled flour,’” he grinned.

Back at Rio Del Rey in February 2024, Velazquez showed off sixinch Jammu sprouts from seeds planted a few weeks prior. After some light weeding, it was time for a treat: fresh bread baked with Jammu from June 2023. To preserve the homegrown wheat’s character, Velazquez added sprouted Jammu berries to the dough. The chewy golden sprouts gave the finished loaf a nutty, rich texture with a perfect chew and crust. It barely needed butter—but of course we had to indulge. D

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A MANY-SPLENDORED THING

Preserving persimmons for fall

BY KATIE STOKES • PHOTOGRAPHY BY BECKA VANCE

Ifell hard for persimmons at an intense time of my life. Against many odds as a recently widowed mom of two, I was able to buy a home on a half-acre close to my extended family. Many things about that property tugged at my heart, and one of them was a tree. We moved in during a wet winter that kept our energies focused indoors, but come spring, the brightest, biggest green leaves popped out of a nicely shaped tree. Eventually when the fruit formed, I realized it was a Fuyu persimmon.

Can you come to truly love a tree? In a word, yes.

The soil on that property was miraculously rich because it was part of an avocado grove for many years. Benefiting from this invisible superpower, my Fuyu tree produced countless sumptuously orange fruits each fall. With such bounty, I devoured them fresh, gave bushels and bushels to friends, and began drying them for a year’s worth of snacks that look like orange sand dollars.

When I sold that house, it pained me to leave that tree. I realized how fleeting and precious some experiences are in life and how healthy living soil is valuable beyond measure. Without my miracle tree, every fall since then I buy Fuyus at farmers’ markets and, October through December, dehydrate as many of them as I can.

A few years back, local chef Keith Lord posted about hoshigaki, the Japanese method of air-drying Hachiya persimmons, the variety that makes your mouth pucker if eaten before they are ripe. I was intrigued. Keith encouraged me, and I tentatively tried my hand. With mixed results that first year, I was determined to learn more. I found a wonderful illustrated booklet online with stepby-step instructions, and I wish it was still in print so I could buy more for friends and family.

How can a dried fruit come to mean so much? Persimmons mark the passage of time, evoking memories of the seasons in different places I’ve lived. They connect me to the earth, as we dream of heavy crops where we call home now. I cannot play favorites, which means preparing both kinds of dried persimmons each fall. But to be honest, it might be their beauty. The sensory pleasures of the deep orange color and the almost-cinnamon aroma keep me company as I prepare dozens of batches over many weeks with ripening persimmons covering most flat surfaces in the kitchen. Persimmon trees turn the most spectacular crimson red before the leaves drop around New Year’s, and we eagerly await our new fruits each spring, counting them like precious jewels.

When the harvest is over and I’ve filled as many jars and freezer bags as possible, I feel deep gratitude for the life force persimmons have come to represent in my life. This feeling of one’s cup running over makes me want to share these persimmon chronicles with you.

Serve dried persimmons with cheese and crackers, or enjoy the fruit on its own any time of day or night. The color, texture, and flavor are like nothing else—swoon! D

I’ve narrowed the Japanese technique of massaging and drying Hachiya persimmons down to these 12 steps based on a self-published booklet by Amadéo Pinto and Juliette Bellocq that captured the teachings of Sonoko Sakai.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

• A large pan of boiling water

• A place to hang the persimmons

• Cooking twine

• A paring knife

HOSHIGAKI

DEHYDRATED FUYUS

• Slice firm but dark orange fruit with a mandoline. You can do it with a knife, but the mandoline is faster and makes the slices much more uniform.

• Set the top and bottom slices aside for fresh snacking or juicing.

1. Select firm Hachiya persimmons that ideally have long and sturdy stems.

2. Thoroughly wash the fruits, especially under the crown to make sure every part is clean.

3. Peel the fruits, leaving the crown around the stem.

4. Tie the fruits to cooking twine, using a no-slip knot if possible. You can do one fruit per string, or as you get the hang of it, tie several on a string placing one every few inches. Be sure to leave enough twine at the top to tie to a hook, bar, or hanger.

• Arrange the slices in a dehydrator set to the fruit temperature. Check it frequently because each machine and the humidity of the day impact how long it takes to dry. Also, you decide how dry you want the slices to be, but expect it to take between 6 to 12 hours.

• Store in an airtight container, or freeze for longer-term storage.

5. Bring a large pan of water to a boil.

6. Carefully dip the stringed fruit in the boiling water for 5 or 6 seconds.

7. Hang the strands in a place where there is good air circulation. The fruits should not touch anything.

8. You can place a pan or towel underneath in case there are any drips the first few days.

9. Inspect the fruit daily for the first week. A thin white veil might form on the surface, which is the sugar rising to the surface. If any mildew appears,

carefully apply a small amount of rubbing alcohol with a swab.

10. After about a week, when the fruits have a dry surface, gently massage the fruit each day for about three weeks. This helps form a uniform, creamy texture inside.

11. Leave hanging for at least three weeks or until they look and feel thoroughly dry, like a very large raisin!

12. Store in an airtight container. (I keep the majority of them in the freezer after they have dried just to be extra sure they last for as long as possible.)

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