Edible San Diego Surf and Turf Issue 17 Summer 2012 by Edible San Diego

Celebrating San Diego’s local foods, season by season • No. 17 • Summer 2012

Surf&Turf

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Introducing

Healthy eating is a lifestyle. It’s what inspired Agrarian—our fresh approach to connecting with food through planting, preserving, beekeeping, cheese making and more. We’ll show you how to transform home grown into home made for the everyday table. For our complete Agrarian assortment, including over 250 new products, please visit us online at williams-sonoma.com/agrarian. You’ll also find Agrarian products in select Williams-Sonoma stores.

spring 2012

edible San Diego

Summer 2012

CONTENTS

PUBLISHERS’ NOTE

NOTABLE EDIBLES

IN SEASON INTERVIEW: SURF & TURF CHEF PAUL ARIAS AND CHEF MAX BONACCI 11

CARLSBAD AQUAFARMS: LOCAL, SUSTAINABLE, ECO-FRIENDLY AND INCREDIBLY FRESH SEAFOOD 20

WHAT’S THE CATCH? 26

BACKYARD AQUAPONICS 30

SUSTAINABLE VS. LOCAL SAN DIEGO’S GRASS FED MEAT DILEMMA 34

FARM-TO-YOU MEAT 40

GOING WHOLE HOG 44

EXCERPT FROM MICHAEL POLLEN’S FOOD RULES: AN EATER’S MANUAL 48

RESOURCES & ADVERTISERS 52

FARMERS’ MARKETS 57

I worried about my garden going to seed, about it looking dishevelled , about it not being productive, about everything that “going to seed” implies. Until one day I saw the bees and hummingbirds happily at work making the most of what I had been too busy to deal with. A garden gone to seed—so beautiful. R.T.Davenport

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Photo: Riley Davenport

As fresh and local as it gets Join us for a day of exploration and discovery at our Artisans’ Market. We’re supporting the local food community by showcasing growers and specialty food producers in our stores. Taste and enjoy the freshest handcrafted foods. Explore the market and meet the artisans—learn the unique stories behind each product.

Visit our featured stores for details. Williams-Sonoma Fashion Valley Williams-Sonoma University Town Center

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edible San Diego

PUBLISHERS’ NOTE

Good cause for optimism. More and more people are adopting Michael Pollan’s advice: Eat real food, mostly plants, not too much. We have seen tremendous growth in the local, sustainable food scene in San Diego County since we took the reins at Edible San Diego in August 2009. The number of farm and hybrid CSAs has increased by half. At last count, grass-fed beef and pastured chicken vendors could be found at close to 20 farmers’ markets. New restaurants sourcing locally or sustainably or both are opening every month: Tiger!Tiger!, Carnitas Snack Shack, Brooklyn Girl Eatery, The Craftsman, The Lion’s Share and The Range, to name a few. SOL Markets and Bistro in Liberty Station is setting the bar for sourcing locally, with nearly all of their products sourced from within 100 miles. Local wines from Vesper Vineyards, Triple B Ranches and Los Pilares are winning kudos and Riley Davenport & John Vawter appearing on the wine lists of local restaurants. Local artisan food makers are selling their juice, chocolate and caramel sauce, olive oil, pickled vegetables, bread, gluten free breads and desserts at farmers markets and in many local stores. Two farmers’ markets opened in May, and two more will open in June, bringing the total to about 54 a week in San Diego County. More markets will be adding WIC and EBT capability making local and sustainably raised food more affordable to those below the poverty line. There is more good local news. School garden programs are growing and thriving, and more people than ever are starting their own backyard—and front yard—gardens. Urban agriculture is back as small groups of highly motivated neighborhood activists have lobbied their local officials to liberalize rules about keeping chickens, goats, even bees, and to make it legal to sell your excess produce to neighbors. The economic and regulatory successes we see locally reflect a national trend. In spite of the recession, local and sustainable agriculture and food is one of the fastest growing sectors of the economy. It is driven by our changing shopping habits. In this issue, we offer more opportunities for you to explore your local foodshed, and a little taste of Michael Pollan’s most recent book, Food Rules: An Eater’s Manual.

edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

CONTRIBUTORS Chris Rov Costa Riley Davenport Ecolife Foundation Dhanraj Emanuel Brandon Hernández Maril Kalman William Kubitschek Lauren Lastowka Michael Pollan Jay Porter Evan Ross Matt Skenazy Matt Steiger Britta Turner Dashielle Vawter White Mountain Ranch

PUBLISHERS Riley Davenport John Vawter

EDITOR

Subscribe & support ESD Never miss a mouth-watering issue.

Support and celebrate our local food community. Subscribe or give a gift subscription to Edible San Diego for just $32 a year (printed quarterly). $52 for two years. $66 for three years. Subscribing online is easy at ediblesandiego.com. Or send your information (name, street address, city, state and zip code) and check made payable to Edible San Diego to the address below.

Edible San Diego, P.O. Box 83549, San Diego, CA 92138 4

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Lauren Lastowka

COPY EDITORS Doug Adrianson John Vawter

DESIGNER Riley Davenport

COVER PHOTO Chris Rov Costa

Edible San Diego P.O. Box 83549 San Diego, CA 92138 619-222-8267 info@ediblesandiego. com ediblesandiego.com

ADVERTISING For information about rates and deadlines, call 619-222-8267 or email us at info@ediblesandiego. com No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2012. All rights reserved. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere apologies. Thank you.

BENEFITTINg OLIvEWOOD gaRDENs, sEEDs @ CITy & WILD WILLOW FaRMs ...

SA N D I EG O

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September 1–8, 2012

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WEEK

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Local .

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PaRTICIPaTINg REsTauRaNTs

September 1–8, 2012 Edible San Diego’s first annual Eat Drink Local Week celebrates local seasonal food and food makers in San Diego while raising money for nonprofits Olivewood Gardens, Seeds @ City and Wild Willow Farms. We invite you to dine at our participating restaurants featuring a locally scourced menu. What a delicious way to support participating restaurants, local farmers, ranchers, and fishermen and nonprofits promoting healthy food and agriculture education!

Stay tuned for upcoming information about our special ticketed events:

IALT Y PR DU C EC

SPONSORS

Eat Drink Local Week Cocktail Kickoff with Live Jazz Collaboration Kitchen Chocolate and Coffee Indulgence Moonlight Jazz and Local Wine Tasting Free-subscription Night at Participating Restaurants Beerfest and Foodtruck Extravaganza!

www.specialtyproduce.com

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alchemy Blue Ribbon artisan Pizzaria Cafe Merlot Carnita’s snack shack Craftsman New american Tavern Cups El Take It Easy Farm House Café Healthy Creations Jeremy’s on the Hill Jsix Restaurant Leroy’s Kitchen + Lounge Local Habit El Q’ero Restaurant Restaurant at The Pearl sBicca sea Rocket Bistro sOL Bistro starlite stone Bistro Tender greens The Fishery The Linkery The Lions share The Red Door and Wine Bar The Wellington If you are a locally sourcing restaurant and would like to participate, contact summer 2012 edible San Diego us at info@ediblesandiego.com.

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D r t i nk a E

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NOTABLE EDIBLES Last fall, we asked readers to vote for the farm, restaurant, food shop, food artisan and nonprofit that they felt were making major contributions to our local food community. Here we proudly present the winners.

Chef and Restaurant: Nick Brune of Local Habit

Farm: Suzie’s Farm It’s hard to believe that Suzie’s farm is just three years old, as the produce grown on this 70-acre Imperial Beach organic farm is ubiquitous in our local food community. You can buy it at nine weekly farmers markets, retrieve it from 39 CSA pick-up locations, and find it on the menus of nearly every conscientious restaurant in town. It’s quite a feat, actually, for a husband-and-wife duo to achieve in just a few years. Except that the success of Suzie’s Farm isn’t just due to owners Robin Taylor and Lucila De Alejandro (although they do deserve an enormous amount of credit). It’s due to the community—of farmers, volunteers, customers and friends-of-the-farm—that has risen around this organic farm. For over the past three years, in addition to growing food, Suzie’s has truly grown a community. They have mentored staff and volunteers who want to get closer to the land and forge a career in organic farming. They have invited the public to visit, celebrate and explore how food is grown. And they have shared, through pictures, poetic blog posts and stories, what it means to grow honest, healthy and humble food in the heart of a city. If you haven’t yet visited the farm, we encourage you to do so this summer. Suzie’s hosts events that cater to nearly every demographic of our community: There are family-friendly u-pick events, “weed dating” for the single crowd, and even yoga classes in the center of a life-size sunflower maze. This is not just a farm. It is a school, a lab, a social venue and a sanctuary, and we’re thrilled to have it here in town.

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When Local Habit opened in Hillcrest last July, chef and co-owner Nick Brune wasted no time establishing the kitchen’s from-scratch agenda: curing meat, stuffing sausage, making ginger beer, pickling condiments, and building some of the most creative pizzas in town. But Brune’s efforts to serve good, honest food don’t stop at his kitchen doors—he also frequents farmers’ markets and taps into the community to find and source ingredients from local producers. In addition to buying from restaurant-friendly farms such as Suzie’s Farm, Brune has gone the extra mile to work with smaller producers such as Maciel Family Farms in Bonsall and New Roots Community Farm in City Heights. But his passion for quality local ingredients is not the only thing laudable about Chef Brune—his creativity is just as delightful as his commitments. Local Habit’s oft-changing menu has featured dishes as diverse as oysters Rockefeller pizza, ancho-chile duck breast with Alesmith Speedway Stout gravy, and blue cheese ice cream. Whether you stop in for a casual night of small plates at the bar or make an evening of a five-course beer-pairing dinner, you can’t spend time at Local Habit without seeing Brune’s talent, passion, and excitement reflected on the plate.

On the evening of

SEPTEMBER 22

Two Thousand Twelve

Gather with us at the center of an enchanted sunflower maze for... Food Shop: Catalina Offshore Products When you park your car at the Catalina Offshore Products warehouse at the dead end of Lovelock Street for the first time, you may wonder if you’re in the right place. “They sell fish here? To the public?” But the warehouse setting is part of the charm of this hidden gem. Once inside the office door, look for the small dry erase board listing the day’s catch and prices. Decide what you want while waiting your turn to be escorted back to the working warehouse, wearing a hair net of course. There, Tommy Gomes (“Trust your fishmonger!”) or another warehouse veteran presides over a table of really fresh seafood. Here, sustainability is more than just the species; how and where a fish is caught is often just as important. And almost all of the fish for sale at Catalina Offshore Products is caught by local fishermen. Several times a year, the warehouse is home to Collaboration Kitchen, with a guest chef who cooks up three or four delicious small plates for fifty or so guests, all of whom bring their own beverages, sit on folding chairs and are happy to pay for the privilege. Collaboration Kitchen always sells out fast. Go to one.

Our Second Annual

AUTUMNAL EQUINOX DINNER For tickets & information visit suziesfarm.com or email events@suziesfarm.com summer 2012

edible San Diego

NOTABLE EDIBLES Nonprofit: San Diego Roots & Wild Willow Farm

Food or Beverage Artisan: Praline Patisserie Artisanal Caramel Sauces Cruz Caudillo grew up working on cars and motorcycles, and had a strong interest in science—but this didn’t satisfy his artistic side. He found his calling in the pastry kitchen because cooking, after all, is both a precise science and a creative art. His love for pastry making and his desire to delight the senses of those who sample his creations led him to his current venture, Praline Patisserie Artisanal Caramel Sauces. The sauces are handmade in small batches without corn syrup or artificial flavors or colors. The ingredients come from around the world and are chosen for quality and sustainability. Chef Caudillo wants you to swoon when you taste his sauces. There are five flavors: Fleur de Sel, Applewood Smoked, Vanilla Bean, Lavender and Espresso, and they come in 10-ounce jars, $9 for one, $16 for two. You can purchase Praline Patisserie Artisanal Caramel Sauces at With Love, Toma Sol, SOL Market, Green Butterfly Florist, Maison en Provence, Specialty Produce, Waters Catering, Liskos Deli, Jewel Date Farm, Azul La Jolla, Progress South Park, Café Madeline and at the UTC, Little Italy Mercato, Hillcrest, La Jolla and Encinitas Station Certified Farmers Markets.

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A lot of people cheered in June, 2010, when Wild Willow Farm opened to the public. The farm had been a vision of the San Diego Roots Sustainable Food Project for years, but lack of funds and feasible locations prevented the nonprofit educational farm from taking shape. That is, until the newly opened Suzie’s Farm agreed to lease five acres of their land to the nonprofit. In the short two years since they’ve been open, Wild Willow Farm has taken giant leaps in educating the public about sustainable food, farming and cooking. They’ve hosted hands-on farming field trips for nearly 1,000 students; offered a series of free garden education classes in partnership with San Diego County; regularly put on workshops on topics as diverse as mushroom cultivation, beekeeping and fermentation; and hosted monthly potlucks to bring like-minded gardeners, farmers and homesteaders together. Wild Willow Farm doesn’t just want to grow food—they want to teach the community to do the same. The long-term goal is not only to exist sustainably as a farm and education center, but also to see a network of sustainable farms and gardens across the county, offering San Diego residents food security, agricultural variety and a just and sustainable food system. There’s really not enough we can say about Wild Willow Farm’s passion, efforts and tireless hard work. To learn about volunteer, internship and donation opportunities, as well as workshops, potlucks and other events, visit wildwillowfarm.sandiegoroots.org

1 bottle 1 cup 2

Sauvignon Blanc or Dry White Wine St-Germain Fresh Peaches*

5-6

Fresh Strawberries*

Fresh Raspberries*

1 small bunch

Fresh White Grapes*

Stir ingredients in a pitcher or carafe. Allow fruit to soak in the mixture for 15 minutes (or longer, if desired). Serve in an ice-filled glass, then telephone your physician and regale him with stories of your exemplary fruit consumption. *Merely suggestions - be creative!

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Stories and recipes from local chefs at both ends of the sustainable protein spectrum By Brandon Hernández Photos by Chris Rov Costa

or restaurateurs, finding a chef with the skills, mind set, experience and shared values to deliver the ethos of their restaurant on a plate can be a big challenge. That’s especially true for eateries like North Park’s The Linkery and El Take It Easy, where owner Jay Porter changes the menu with the mood of Mother Nature, and Pacific Beach’s The Fishery, where owners Judd and Mary Anne Brown are serious about serving up healthy cuisine incorporating fresh, local oceanic delights brought in via their 30-year-old company, Pacific Shellfish.

Photo: Riley Davenport

Yet, somehow, Porter, the Browns and their patrons ended up with everything they ever wanted and more. continued on page 12

Surf & Turf

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Surf

Chef Paul Arias, The Fishery T

hree years ago, when looking for a talented chef to steer them through the restaurant industry’s choppy waters, the best the Browns could do was put out a want ad and pray someone would come along with their level of passion for seafood and sustainability. Much to the Brown’s pleasure, and that of their customers, a talented culinarian by the name of Paul Arias threw his toque in the ring and it’s been smooth sailing ever since. Sometimes things just work out, but examining Arias’ life and career leading up to his arrival at The Fishery suggests that this ideal pairing was the stuff of fate. “My mother was no gourmet cook, but she cooked for at least six people every night and always made delicious, wellbalanced meals,” recalls Arias. “Two of my favorites that could always bring me in from my childhood adventures were her beef stroganoff and tuna-noodle casserole. They were both simple in preparation, but brought on a feeling of comfort that I try to bring in my own cooking today.” Arias’ first taste of professional cooking came at age 13, when he worked a summer job at a spot called Bonitas Frites on the Santa Monica Promenade, where he’d peel potatoes five hours a day to load the 12

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restaurant up with enough spuds for their popular Belgian-style fries. A big reason for the fries’ popularity was the restaurant’s sauces. One day, the owner enlisted Arias to help whip up some garlic mayonnaise. “Mayo was huge in my house, but we were a Best Foods family all the way. It never dawned on me that you could make it from scratch,” says Arias, who learned how to make a variety of sauces that summer. “This from-scratch mentality gave me a sense of power over raw ingredients and made me want to learn more.” And learn more he did, first at the Los Angeles Culinary Institute, then from Bel-Air Bay Club chef Pierre Sauvaget, who encouraged Arias to move to the French Riviera, where he spent a year honing his craft. But it wasn’t until he returned to the States and worked under two exceptional American chefs that he really got schooled on fine dining and classic European technique.

“I thought, ‘What the hell? A little conversation couldn’t hurt,’” says Arias. “Best decision of my career! After Jeff Jedi mind-tricked me into leaving my chef position for a lead line cook and a $20,000 pay cut, it was on. The next few years changed me as a chef. He taught me old-school French technique that not many people take the time to do any more, but most importantly, he taught me to be humble and to enjoy how lucky we are to do what we do.” Arias rose to the level of chef de cuisine at The Lodge before deciding it was time to head to the East Coast to experience life on the other side of the country. There, he spent three years working in Cape Cod. Despite knocking out a whopping 1,200 covers a night, he enjoyed his time there and added even more seafood experience to his already extensive bag of tricks, but when his

son, Pablo, was born, he decided it was time to move back home to the West Coast. “My love of seafood and cooking and passion for produce are a perfect match for The Fishery, its seafood-only philosophy and Judd and Mary Anne’s passion for simple, healthy food,” says Arias. “Being attached to Pacific Shellfish has given me the opportunity to meet some of our fishermen and use the different, amazing things they bring out of our local waters.” From lobster to harpoon-caught swordfish, sardines and sea urchin, the world just beyond San Diego’s shores truly is his oyster. Thanks to Arias, so, too is this issue of Edible San Diego. He and the Browns are toying with the idea of a cookbook. Three recipes that may make it into that compilation are here for advance viewing and culinary experimentation.

“When I returned, I worked at LA’s Water Grill for Michael Cimarusti, who is now one of the few two-Michelin-star chefs in California,” says Arias. “I watched him closely as he treated seafood with great respect and I was exposed to new ingredients and techniques that I will carry with me forever.”

“ Being attached to Pacific Shellfish has given me the opportunity to meet some of our fishermen and use the different, amazing things they bring out of our local waters.” In 1999, Cimarusti asked Arias if he would help him open a restaurant called Royale Brasserie in San Diego. He jumped at the offer, packed his things and headed to America’s Finest City. After roughly two years at Royale, he received an unexpected phone call from “some chef ” named Jeff Jackson who said he was opening a restaurant in La Jolla, had gotten Arias’ name from a chef in LA and wanted to meet and discuss his project and the prospect of Arias joining his opening team.

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Fish recipes on pages 14 and 15 courtesy of Chef Paul Arias of The Fishery

Whole Fried Local Red Rock Fish with Snap Pea Salad and Tamarind Chili Sauce If you can’t find sculpin, you can substitute small blackgill rockfish in this recipe. 2–4 cups vegetable oil (depending on size of pan and fish) 1 whole sculpin, gutted, scaled and spines removed Salt and pepper Cornstarch for frying Heat oil in a large skillet until it reaches 350°. Meanwhile, season fish with salt and pepper, then coat fish in cornstarch. Fry fish in the oil for about 7 minutes, until just cooked through. Place fish on top of sugar snap pea salad and spoon tamarind sauce over fish. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds and chopped scallions.

Sugar snap pea salad 2 cups sliced sugar snap peas 1 cup thinly sliced red bell pepper ½ bunch cilantro, chopped Lemon juice, to taste Olive oil, to taste Salt and pepper, to taste Mix snap peas, bell pepper, and cilantro together in a bowl. Mix lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper, and toss with vegetable mixture. Check for seasoning and serve.

Tamarind sauce 5 tamarind pods ½ cup orange juice 2 tablespoons sugar ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup rice wine vinegar 2 tablespoons minced ginger 1 tablespoon sambal sauce 1 tablespoon fish sauce 2 tablespoons sesame seed oil ½ bunch cilantro, chopped 1 bunch green onion, sliced ½ cup olive oil Peel and remove seeds from tamarind pods. Cover tamarind with orange juice, sugar and a little water and bring to boil. Cook until soft. Blend the tamarind with soy sauce and rice vinegar. Whisk together with remaining ingredients in a large bowl. Let sauce sit for at least 2 hours. 14

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Poached salmon with Yukon gold potato and caper vinaigrette so it forms a circle. Place 3 potato slices in center of the circle and top with a piece of salmon. Toss chive batons with lemon juice, and garnish plates with chive batons and fresh sea salt. Enjoy.

2 large Yukon gold potatoes, peeled 2 quarts of court bullion (see note) 6 four-ounce portions of skinless king salmon (use Loch Duarte if wild not available)

Note: Court bullion is a flavorful liquid for cooking a variety of items. At the Fishery, we use a mixture of fish stock and white wine that is simmered with a variety of aromatics such as fennel, onion, leeks, bay leaf, fennel seed, peppercorns and herbs.

2 tablespoons olive oil 6 ounces of caper vinaigrette Chive batons for garnish 1 teaspoon Fresh lemon juice Sea salt, to taste Cut potatoes into three even rounds and trim ends so they sit flat. Cook potato slices in salted water until tender and set aside. Heat court bullion until small bubbles start to form and the temperature reaches about 190° Add salmon and poach for 6 minutes until just past medium rare. Remove salmon and set aside to rest. In sauté pan, heat olive oil until shimmering. Season sliced potatoes with salt and pepper and sauté on both sides until golden brown. To serve, spoon 1 ounce of caper vinaigrette onto each serving plate

Caper vinaigrette 2 cups fresh mayonnaise (or highquality, store-bought mayo) ½ cup fresh lemon juice

½ cup water ¼ cup brined capers Salt and pepper to taste

3 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoons champagne vinegar 1 bunch fresh Italian parsley, chopped 1 bunch fresh chives, chopped 1 bunch fresh tarragon, chopped

Place mayonnaise, lemon juice, honey and vinegar in blender and puree until smooth. Add chopped herbs and blend, adding water if necessary to maintain sauce consistency. Add capers and blend. Check for seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste.

Braised Halibut Cheeks

3 bunches mixed baby carrots, scrubbed, tops removed, and halved lengthwise

1 pound fresh halibut cheeks

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

Salt, to taste Fresh ground pepper, to taste

2 stalks of green garlic, sliced thin (you can substitute 3 sliced garlic cloves)

2 tablespoons good olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh thyme

2 bunches spring onion, washed and sliced into thirds

1 cup white wine 3 cups fish stock 3 tablespoons chopped chives Juice of 1 lemon Season halibut cheeks with salt and pepper. In a large sauté pan, heat olive oil and add halibut. Allow fish to lightly brown on one side, then remove from pan and set aside. Add a little more olive oil to the pan if necessary, then add spring onions and carrots and cook on medium heat for 1 minute. Add 1 tablespoon of butter and the sliced garlic and cook for one minute. Add thyme and stir to incorporate. Deglaze pan with white wine, then simmer until wine reduces to a syrup. Add fish stock and bring to a simmer. Add halibut back to pan and cover. Let simmer for 5 minutes. Remove lid and transfer carrots and onions to a serving plate. Gently place halibut cheeks on top of vegetables. Add the remaining butter to pan, along with chives and lemon juice. Reduce until the mixture has the consistency of sauce. Check for seasoning, add salt and pepper if needed, and spoon butter mixture over halibut. Serve immediately.

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Turf

Chef Max Bonacci, The Linkery

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“ The Linkery provides a space for me to do my work, hone my craft and get creative. Since we receive our products at the peak of their freshness, the dishes on the menu represent and honor exactly what Mother Nature is producing right now.

t’s no surprise that, when looking for a chef with the goods to do right by goods from local farms, locavorian flag-flier Jay Porter tabbed a homeboy in his North Park ’hood. Much like the pristine proteins and produce that grace the menus of The Linkery and El Take It Easy, that move illustrates the virtues of local sourcing. Chef Max Bonacci revels in the challenge of taking the best of any day’s harvest and making it shine via innovative culinary styling. “Growing up, I trained in my family’s kitchen and at my aunt’s winery in upstate New York,” says Bonacci. “Working in the fields with grapes and vines sparked something inside of me that ultimately manifested itself into the love of local, sustainable cuisine.” Bonacci credits his grandmother and father for inspiring his love of food, and cites a venerable hunters’ stew, the origins of which date back to his great-grandfather, as being the single most influential dish of his childhood. A hearty concoction centered around slow-roasted chicken thighs and sausage, it has undergone numerous adaptations at the hands of the males in the family’s lineage. Bonacci currently serves his father’s version under the name of Albert Stew on The Linkery’s menu. Later in life, Bonacci found himself living in Big Sur and working at Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant. It was in this Central Coast locale that his love for fresh, local everything grew even more. “I remember getting abalone, mussels and rockfish right from the shore, straight from my friends, the fishermen,” Bonacci recalls. “We would cook a little up on the beach before heading back to the restaurant. This is where the true magic of local, fresh and sustainable is captured. This is how food is meant to be eaten.” The Linkery and El Take It Easy’s common thread of rolling with the punches of regional, seasonal ingredient availability (every ingredient he uses, be they eggs,

cheese, fruits, vegetables, legumes, meat or seafood, is farm-fresh) provides Bonacci the perfect opportunity to prove that on a daily basis. It’s a challenge he’s not only up to, but enjoys. Turning people on to his and Porter’s ideologies on edibles, he says, makes it worth the 90-plus-hour workweeks and time away from loved ones. “The Linkery provides a space for me to do my work, hone my craft and get creative. Since we receive our products at the peak of their freshness, the dishes on the menu represent and honor exactly what Mother Nature is producing right now. My aim is always to highlight the freshness of our ingredients by not adding too many distracting flavors.” That culinary strategy is in keeping with values handed down by mentor Phil Wojtowicz, the chef Bonacci worked under at Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant.

Pickled Pork Trotters 4 fresh pork feet 3 cloves garlic 2 tablespoons salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

“He planted the idea that I could have fun in the kitchen, turn my passion into a career and totally love it,” exclaims Bonacci, who says Wojtowicz and the chefs he later worked for at high-profile restaurants along the Central Coast pushed him to be his best, pay attention to minute details and continually evolve.

2 gallons plus 2 cups water

Proof of that evolution is served nightly on 30th Street along with dad’s hunters’ stew. Bonacci’s holding on tight to that recipe—some things in life are sacred. But we were able to wrangle a pair of meaty recipes he’s proud and happy to share with the hometown he consistently celebrates. To that end, he urges readers preparing his recipes to procure as many of their ingredients as possible at farmers’ markets or straight from the source.

1 teaspoon black pepper corn

“Definitely begin by using the best ingredients,” he says. “Visit a local farm. Most have tours and you can educate yourself and your family about produce and where your food comes from.”

6 cups vinegar 1/2 cup salt 1 cup sugar 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon coriander seed 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper 3 whole cloves Combine pork feet, garlic, salt, pepper and 2 gallons water and boil on medium high heat for 2 hours until trotters are soft. Let trotters cool down and then pick them apart, discarding bones and saving the fat, skin and tendon. Combine remaining 2 cups water with remaining ingredients and heat until salt and sugar are dissolved. Let cool, then add the pork trotter pieces to the pickling liquid. Store in the fridge in an airtight container. Enjoy with other meats, or add to your favorite condiment.

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Recipes on pages 17 and 18 courtesy of Chef Max Bonacci of The Linkery and El Take it Eazy

Garlic Beef This recipe makes great garlic beef tacos. Simply serve with tortillas, avocado, and your favorite taco toppings.

2 bulbs roasted garlic, peeled

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 quarts beef stock

2 pounds grass-fed sirloin steak, chopped into 2” cubes

1 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 pound beef fat, chopped into 1” cubes 10 guajillo chiles, seeds and stems removed

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2 bulbs fresh garlic, peeled 1/4 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons sea salt

Heat olive oil in a large pan. Add steak cubes in and sear, turning several times, until all sides are lightly browned. Add steak to a baking dish with fat cubes. Add chiles, garlic, soy sauce, stock, salt and pepper. Cover with foil and cook in a 300° oven for 2 hours. Remove from oven, cool and shred beef.

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Carlsbad Aquafarm Local, Sustainable, Eco-friendly and Incredibly Fresh Seafood

edible San Diego

summer 2012

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

By Matt Steiger

n San Diego, we are accustomed to having the bounty of the sea to fill our fridges and bellies. We are fortunate to a have a year-round variety of fresh, delectable seafood, but we must be ever mindful of how we manage this resource. Our seafood consumption stands to impart permanent damage to fisheries and environments worldwide. More than ever before, sustainable seafood is one of the most important food choices we can make—but the choice isn’t always simple. We all know fish is either wild or farmed. There are vague notions that wild fish is healthy and nutritious and farmed fish is bad, but the picture is much more complex. Some wild fish is good, but many populations are overtaxed. Some farmed fish pollutes local environments and gene pools and consumes more protein than it produces. But some farmed seafood can be kept separate from, or even enhance, the local environment and consumes little to no wild protein at all. Put simply, choosing sustainable seafood means either harvesting limited and measured amounts of wild fish whose populations are strong, or establishing aquaculture methods that don’t destroy the environment and don’t suffer from a protein imbalance. Carlsbad Aquafarm has been working hard on the latter for over 20 years. John Davis founded Carlsbad Aquafarm in 1990, along with his partners at Acacia Pacific Investments. The aquafarm is nestled in Agua Hedionda Lagoon, alongside an NRG power plant, a desalination plant and the Hubbard Marine Fish Hatchery, which hatches white sea bass to return to the wild. The Carlsbad Aquafarm project was originally conceived in cooperation with SDG&E. The original owners of

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

summer 2012

edible San Diego

A 5-year-old abalone from the Carlsbad tanks.

“ My ultimate dream was to help restore the abalone population in California, a population that I personally helped devastate.”

Photo: Matt Steiger

the power plant actually sought out environmental businesses to partner in the lagoon. From the beginning, Davis wanted the farm to be his “giving back” project, restoring some of the decimated sea life along our coast. He is motivated from a deep sense of responsibility: “My ultimate dream was to help restore the abalone population in California, a population that I personally helped devastate.” He goes on to describe the mistakes of his youth. “In the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s, divers would pluck abalone off the rocks like barnacles, coming home with gunnysacks full. We didn’t realize how slowly they grow. They’re opportunity feeders. If a piece of kelp doesn’t float by, they might not eat for eight months; then they don’t grow. And they’re broadcast spawners: sperm and eggs are shot out into the water. If there’s not another animal within about a half mile, they don’t breed.” The foot-long wild abalone harvested back then were likely 20- to 30-year-old specimens; old breeders.

Oysters and mussels are filter feeders, consuming phytoplankton and bacteria by passing water through their gills. Even pollutants are eaten (and denatured) or expelled as harmless pellets. A single oyster can filter 50 gallons of water in a day, and Carlsbad Aquafarm has millions of them. Bivalves also improve the protein imbalance, converting microorganisms to delicious, edible protein. Since something like 80%–90% of the Earth’s biomass is bacteria and plankton, filter feeders can be sustainability farmed on a massive scale. As for flavor, freshness and price, Carlsbad oysters and mussels can’t be beat. Every batch of Carlsbad oysters and mussels is “purged”

Davis is driven by his desire to replenish. “It’s absolutely staggering how much sea life comes out of the oceans to feed humans. Here, we grow seafood that does not destroy the ocean. When you buy a dozen oysters from me, that’s a dozen wild oysters that don’t get harvested. Together, that’s our gift to the sea.” Carlsbad Aquafarm started out raising black mussels and Pacific oysters, supplying restaurants in San Diego and LA. Several years ago they began selling directly to the public at local farmers’ markets. Recently they expanded to raising abalone and edible seaweed and they are currently experimenting with Manila clams and scallops. In spite of farmed fish’s bad reputation, farmed bivalves actually improve the local environment. Workers sort through Carlsbad mussels.

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Photo: Chris Rov Costa

in UV-sterilized and filtered seawater, before harvest. Each batch is also tested for three major bacterial hazards before going to market. When you buy them at market they were harvested only hours before. A dozen oysters are $10 and two pounds of mussels are $8. Or you can have a few oysters shucked on the spot by a professional: $5 for three, served over ice with your choice of condiment. Of course oyster purists take them plain and raw, savoring the juice in the shell. As filter feeders, oysters hold a bit of seawater when they close up. They continue to filter this retained water and by the time you open them the so-called “liquor” is the cleanest, purest seawater you can find. Fresh oysters should be brimming with liquor, and Carlsbad oysters don’t disappoint. Davis calls the first touch of liquor to the tongue the “taste of the sea.” The following morsel is briny, minerally and pleasantly and subtly fishy. Mussels are typically steamed, so they release their liquor to the broth, giving it a pleasant brininess. Carlsbad mussels are impeccably fresh, juicy, plump and slightly sweet. Photo: Matt Steiger

One “dozen” fresh-shucked Carlsbad Luna oysters, about to meet their maker.

“ H ere, we grow seafood that does not destroy the ocean. When you buy a dozen oysters from me, that’s a dozen wild oysters that don’t get harvested. Together, that’s our gift to the sea.”

Next time you are considering plucking a few mussels off the rocks in OB, or contemplating that farmed salmon at Costco, think instead of Carlsbad Aquafarm. Go for the freshest, most eco-friendly, sustainable seafood in town, and help John Davis give a little back to the sea that’s given up so much already. Matt Steiger is a physicist who spends his free time gardening, fishing, brewing, cooking and generally obsessing over food. Matt is always on the lookout for the best produce, fresh fish, great brews and the perfect cup of coffee. Follow him at thefoodlunatic.com, or contact him directly at steigey@gmail

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What’s the Catch? A

t any given moment in San Diego, you could walk through downtown and find a vast assortment of seafood to eat: tuna, salmon, yellowtail, halibut, shrimp, lobster, crab, grouper, scallops, sea bass and more. And, strangely enough, they would all be readily available. But where did they come from? How were they caught? How healthy is their population? Is there some unseen factor that you, the consumer, should be aware of when deciding which of these tempting options to choose? Until recently, we perceived seafood as an unlimited resource, largely due to a global economy that makes a wide variety available year-around. But in reality global supplies of healthy, wild fish are swiftly approaching collapse.

summer 2012

our oceans and eco-systems. We need to respect and promote sustainability in our food sources because if we do not, those food sources will cease to exist.

are swiftly approaching collapse.

These problems are immediate and real; however, we do hold the power to change the system and to remediate the state of edible San Diego

Story and photos by Britta Turner

The goal of sustainability—whether you are a fisherman, a distributor, a restaurant or a consumer—should inform every aspect of the industry, including methods used to catch fish, fair wages for fishermen and the conservation of fish species. Sustainability demands a conscious effort to respect and support the capacity of a species, the environment and the system, to Global supplies of healthy, wild fish endure throughout time.

Fish will be one of the biggest assets in feeding the human population as it continues to grow; yet over the years we have devastated our oceans and exhausted much of the oceans’ natural supply of seafood. The first species to collapse in the San Diego area were abalone, rockfish and swordfish. If we continue to overfish and to destroy the ocean, it is simply a matter of time before we eliminate other species.

How to Support Sustainable Seafood in San Diego

So, what is the catch? What is local? What is sustainable? There are a handful of restaurant owners, chefs and activists in San Diego doing their best to promote honest, sustainable practices in the seafood industry and strive towards creating a self-nourishing and -sustaining seafood industry.

What is sustainable? Fishermen, chefs, consumers, and environmentalists all hold different opinions about the nature of local seafood. Judd Brown, owner of Pacific Shellfish and The Fishery in Pacific Beach, is a strong advocate for the fishermen—with over 30 years

There are a handful of restaurant owners, chefs and activists in San Diego doing their best to promote honest, sustainable practices in the seafood industry and strive towards creating a self-nourishing and -sustaining seafood industry.

of commercial and personal fishing experience, he keeps up to date with news and developments within the industry and approaches his business from a place of honesty and integrity.

“There’s a lack of knowledge and understanding of what it really takes to get a fish from the ocean to your plate. I could sit here all day and pontificate about the definitions of ‘local’ and ‘sustainable,’ but when it comes down to it, ‘local’ doesn’t mean anything really anymore because there are so many different opinions.”

Tommy Gomes, a sales representative for Catalina Offshore Products, a wholesale seafood distributor, only sells products that are sustainably harvested and only buys seafood that is caught within the California and Baja California coast. The fishermen supplying products to Catalina Offshore use single-motor panga boats and poles to catch fish. This method is nondestructive to the surrounding ecosystems, avoiding the damage that results from methods such as trawling or dragging enormous, heavy nets across the seabed. The fisheries are often discouraged from catching the biggest fish at times, because, as Gomes remarks, “Less is more sometimes. You don’t want to take all the breeding stock from a species, the big guys, because then you won’t have any fish for later harvests.” Catalina Offshore’s technicians have trained these fishermen in the strict handling procedures necessary to preserve exceptional freshness and optimum quality.

“sustainable” and “local” only to certain species that swim in San Diego waters or are considered abundant? That would severely limit edible seafood options for both fishermen and restaurants, leaving both parties facing trying circumstances.

Fishermen, too, need to adapt to local ecosystem fluctuations in order to maintain healthy stocks of all sorts of species. Dan Nattrass, one of the primary buyers for Catalina Offshore, travels to Baja frequently to check on the equipment, facilities and practices of fishermen there. Gomes also works directly with the San Diego Fishermen’s Workgroup as well as nonprofit organizations like the Monarch School. He also hosts charity events such as a Day on the Dock to expose young consumers to the products that are locally available, encouraging them to make conscious decisions when it comes to purchasing and eating seafood. “I want to educate people and cultivate relationships with them so they understand why the methods we use are important.”

What is Local? For San Diego, a few species that are harvested close to our shores include yellowtail, halibut, lobster, urchin, prawns and sardines. But should we apply the labels

Tommy Gomes of Catalina Offshore Products only sells products that are sustainably harvested and only buys seafood that is caught within the California and Baja California coast. summer 2012

edible San Diego

Sea Rocket Bistro owners Elena Rivellino and Dennis Stein have implemented strict policies about where they source seafood: They consider “local” any seafood caught from the southern border of Washington State down to the tip of Baja California. integrity about the products we sell and the methods we use to bring those products to your table.” Recently, owners Kirk Harrison and Dustin Summerville of Harney Sushi have redesigned their sushi menu to support sustainable fisheries. Removing endangered species such as bluefin or big eye tuna, red snapper and hamachi, they have chosen to support smaller-scale, sustainable fisheries like the Valdez Cervantez Family, who harvest Mexican Kirk Harrison from Harney Sushi, shrimp using light tackle methods, which Tommy Fraioli from Sea Rocket supposedly impose Bistro and Olivier Bioteau from less harm to the ocean floor than traditional Farm House Café all strongly trawling equipment. advocate for using more gamey While Harney’s menu emphasizes products fish in their menus. Says Harrison, that are sustainably “We need to get people to push harvested and not overfished, much of their boundaries and try new their seafood travels things, to get more comfortable overseas and wouldn’t be considered local. eating real seafood.” Their yellowfin tuna is long-line-caught off the coast of the Philippines and their Mount Cook Alpine salmon is farm-raised in the mountains of New Zealand. But they choose to support fisheries practicing sustainable fishing, rather than those who overfish endangered and protected species. Harrison and Summerville both feel obligated to change the way they run their business based on their exposure to the global seafood crisis and other environmental issues; however they, like Catalina 28

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Offshore and Pacific Shellfish, do not claim to be a fully sustainable business. As restaurant owners and seafood distributors, they do bring in products that aren’t always considered local or sustainable. They are, like many others, running a business within an industry that is deeply intertwined with politics and global economics.

Looking to the Future The United States imported almost 2.5 million tons of edible fishery products in 2010, in addition to the consumption of domestically harvested seafood. “People are unwilling to accept the prices of wild fish and the fact that fisheries are challenging to manage. But if the public has a sincere desire to support honest, sustainable seafood, they have to open their wallets and be willing to pay more for fresh, wild-caught fish,” says Brown. The U.S. has taken steps to ameliorate the depletion of foraged fish by lowering fishing quotas and monitoring commercial fishing. However, most Asian countries have little or no accountability or discretion in limiting the amount of fish they pull from the ocean every day. So what is the American consumer to do? How do we change a system that is controlled by greed for money and hunger for seafood? If we do nothing to discipline ourselves in the consumption of the “tasty” species that are already depleted, if fishermen refuse to adapt to laws designed to protect and rehabilitate fish stocks, then we will be forced to face the inevitable collapse of those species, worldwide. But there is hope! We can influence what shows up on our plates in restaurants and stores. As Charles Clover, environmenal journalist and author of End of the Line, says, “The sea belongs to us, the citizens, so why don’t we claim it back?” We as consumers need to recognize and support the part of the fishing industry that is doing the right thing. Maybe that means both cutting back on the amount

of seafood we eat and expanding our palate for varieties of fish that are more abundant in our local communities. Chef Paul Arias at The Fishery has done major work to increase the variety of his menu. He offers more unusual products, such as octopus, mackerel, sculpin and sardines. “People might not be used to it at first, but the dish gains popularity and becomes something that they return for. We can make halibut cheeks taste like buffalo wings, but it’s still halibut on your plate.” Kirk Harrison from Harney Sushi, Tommy Fraioli from Sea Rocket Bistro and Olivier Bioteau from Farm House Café all strongly advocate for using more gamey fish in their menus. Says Harrison, “Americans love their tuna. They hate bones and silver ‘fishy’-tasting fish. We need to get people to push their boundaries and try new things, to get more comfortable eating real seafood.” Over time, these chefs believe, people will familiarize themselves with the less-common species of seafood, and, hopefully, the demand and appreciation for those species will drive the market and the menus. A “peas” keeper of sorts, Britta Turner strings together farmers, foodies, yogis, chefs, artists and the like. A writer and yoga teacher in San Diego, she weaves her whimsical story together in colorful words and playful movements. Follow her journey at granolapath.tumblr.com.

Chef Paul Arias at The Fishery has done major work to increase the variety of his menu. “We can make halibut cheeks taste like buffalo wings, but it’s still halibut on your plate.” Photo: Chris Rov Costa

What’s the Daily Catch: What’s on the Menu? HARNEY SUSHI: Local black cod “unagi,” mackerel “aji” sashimi, Mt. Cook salmon belly FARM HOUSE CAFÉ: Sculpin, corvina, seabass, black gill rock fish. Fish is seared with the skin on and served with fava beans, peewee potatoes, roasted fennel, orange butter, and sliced jalapeño

LOCAL HABIT: Pink grouper collar with scallop butter, chargrilled oysters with habanero butter, grilled artichoke and sardine with lemon aioli RITUAL TAVERN: Chef ’s Catch fish and chips or seafood bouillabaisse.

THE FISHERY: Sculpin (versatile, filet, moist), rockfish, sardines, butterfish (cod), octopus, grouper, Columbia River king salmon. They choose species that are noncontroversial. All fish sold in the restaurant is wild, except for the shell stock (clams, mussels, oysters).

SEA ROCKET BISTRO: Sea cucumber prosciutto, skate sausage and sardine tacos, sea urchin gelato

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Backyard Aquaponics Photo: Ecolife Foundation

Grow greens and fish in your own backyard! By Matt Steiger

A tilapia looks over his handiwork at the Ecolife aquaponics display system.

s we enter the renaissance of eating seasonal and local foods, many people are looking to their own backyards for provision. Right now, lawns are being replaced with edible gardens, chicken coops and beehives are being built and goat milk co-ops are being formed.

converting waste ammonia into useable nitrates. The universe is a wonder of regularity and interconnectedness.

Yet as we nibble away at the machinery of the corporate-industrial food complex, my grandfather is always there to remind me we’re doing the same stuff he did back in the day. No matter how progressive we’ve gotten with our gardens, we’ve had nothing new to show our grandparents—until now.

Aquaponics is the pairing of animal aquaculture and hydroponic gardening, a marriage forged by nature herself.

Modern science has brought us understanding of animal/plant/bacterial symbiosis and the Internet to teach us how to use it in our own backyards. Aquaponics is the pairing of animal aquaculture and hydroponic gardening, a marriage forged by nature herself. Animal waste is high in nitrogen compounds; plants, in turn, can use those compounds for growth. Bacteria are the middlemen in the equation, 30

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A basic aquaponic system is a fish tank next to a vegetable bed. Water from the fish tank (containing waste) is pumped

through a coarse filter where bacteria begin converting ammonia to nitrates. The water flows through the plant roots, which absorb the nitrates, and finally back into the fish tank. Thus the fish feed the plants, and the plants provide filtration for the tank. There is the added benefit that flowing water sucks oxygen into the plant roots (through vacuum) and aerates the fish tank (through turbulent mixing).

Aquaponics solves the major issues associated with farmed fish. Populations are sequestered in tanks, so they (and their diseases) cannot escape to the wild. There is no release of concentrated waste, since the plants utilize it for fertilizer. Finally, an omnivorous fish can be chosen that metabolizes plant matter. In that way, more protein is produced than consumed. Tilapia is a favorite choice of the backyard aquaponist, with the one drawback of requiring warm water. Tilapia will reach maturity (1–2 pounds) in 6–9 months and will breed every 30 days, in the right conditions. The resulting meat is firm, mild and delicious. Veggies grown in the hydroponic bed are awesome too. In soil, plants must compete for root space, fighting over air, water and nutrients. In hydroponics all three are delivered directly to each individual root hair, using 90% less water than soil-based gardening. Leafy greens are an excellent choice, and can be sown directly into the

Photo: Ecolife Foundation

Hydroponic greens, fertilized with fish waste.

Inexpensive backyard aquaponic system built and installed by White Mountains Ranch, with solar powered pump.

Photo : White Mountains Ranch.

hydroponic beds. Hydroponic greens grow quickly and come out large, healthy and nutrient rich.

They will design and install systems in your backyard. whitemountainsranch.weebly. com/aquaponic-systems.html

If you’re looking for the next thing in gardening, check out aquaponics. It is possible to put together a system for a few hundred dollars, or hire an expert to help. There are many backyard aquaponics companies in San Diego; here are three I have found useful:

• City Farmers Nursery sells tilapia fry at certain times of the year and holds free (or nearly free) classes on aquaponics (the next one is scheduled for July 22). cityfarmersnursery.com/events/

• White Mountains Ranch in Jamul showed me my first aquaponics system.

• Ecolife is a local nonprofit seeking humanitarian solutions to ecological problems. They install aquaponics in Uganda, which they hope will reduce

strains on wildlife and water supplies. They hold frequent workshops ($30) and have a great free aquaponics manual on their website. ecolifefoundation.org/programs/ san-diego-village-aquaponics/ Matt Steiger is a physicist who spends his free time gardening, fishing, brewing, cooking, and generally obsessing over food. Matt is always on the lookout for the best produce, fresh fish, great brews and the perfect cup of coffee. Follow him at thefoodlunatic.com or contact him directly at steigey@gmail.

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Sustainable vs. Local:

edible San Diego

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Photo: Dashielle Vawter

San Diegoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Grass-Fed Meat Dilemma

By Jay Porter

ack Ford looks at me across a steel prep table strewn with lamb parts and jars of fresh milk. “Why do people think we can pasture beef,” he says, his voice rising in exasperation, “when grass doesn’t grow here!” At his TAJ Farms in Valley Center, Ford raises a multitude of livestock animals including outdoor chickens, lambs, goats and pigs. His customers are primarily interested in buying the most high-quality meat they can, from a local farmer they know. He feeds his beef cows a combination of farm scraps, local oat hay and spent grain from Poway’s Lightning Brewery.

Of course, getting the meat from Missouri to San Diego requires fuel—but it takes a lot less to ship a cow’s worth of meat than it does to ship a cow’s lifetime worth of hay. For that matter, shipping meat from Missouri to California costs less than it does for a San Diego farmer to take a live steer to the USDA-sanctioned processor in San

raises “100% Green-Fed™” beef on their Sage Mountain organic farm in Aguanga and Hemet. Phil says the most common comment he hears from people is that they are happy to learn that there is a source for local grass-fed beef. Of course, to raise grass-fed beef here, Noble not only dedicates substantial

And, in response to my question about his cattle’s feed, Jack is addressing San Diego’s core question in regards to sustainable, local beef: What do those ideas mean in a region without year-round pasture? On the phone, Will Kubitschek of GreenBeef is explaining to me why he raises cattle in Missouri to sell in San Diego, and he is sounding a similar note. “You cannot raise grass-fed beef sustainably in Southern California,” he says.

Will’s family has long roots in both San Diego County and in Missouri. They’ve set up their operation as a meat CSA in San Diego, with the beef arriving from their farm in Missouri. The farm is ideally located, Will tells me: “Missouri has the most grassfed cattle operations in the country because Missouri has the best grass.” GreenBeef farms all the grass their cows need. “Other operations have to buy a lot of hay and ship it in from hundreds and hundreds of miles away,” Will says. Meanwhile, the 350 acres of pasture maintained by GreenBeef can support 700 cows and 700 sheep, all without irrigation and without requiring any fossil fuels.

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Cattle grazing on Palomar Mountain.

Photo: William Kubitschek

Jack Ford is addressing San Diego’s core question in regards to sustainable, local beef: What do those ideas mean in a region without year-round pasture?

Cattle grazing on Green Beef pasture in Missouri.

Luis Obispo. It costs GreenBeef about $230 to ship a thousand-pound pallet of grass-fed beef to San Diego, using refrigerated “lessthan-load” trucking services. While GreenBeef ’s Missouri-raised meat offers all the nutritional and ecological benefits of grass-fed beef, it doesn’t provide in full the key benefit of buying local: keeping your money circulating in your own community. That point is important to Phil Noble, who with his wife, Juany,

acreage to growing feed for his cattle, he also has to spend a lot of money to bring in adequate amounts of alfalfa. “We live in a desert,” he says, “and it’s part of the reality of raising cattle in Southern California.” Noble also feeds his cattle scraps and food from his organic vegetable farm, items such as broccoli stalks that have to come out of the field for seeding to proceed, or lettuces that have bolted due to the weather. “There’s obviously a lot of green feed on a certified organic farm,” he tells summer 2012

edible San Diego

me. “It’s kind of a no-brainer.” The existence of such divergent approaches to raising sustainable beef traces to the seismic shift that cattle farming underwent in the mid-1900s. Originally, cattle’s place in the ecology of human agriculture was to live on ground unsuitable for crops, and to convert pasture, which humans can’t eat, into beef and milk, which we can. However, with the industrialization of society and agriculture that rapidly took place after World War II, beef ’s role changed. Now, cattle exist primarily to convert a low-profit-margin crop—corn—into a highmargin protein desired throughout the landscape of restaurants and grocery stores. This shift, from cows being eaters of otherwise-inedible grasses to being valueadded processors of cheaply produced corn, was fairly sudden, and we now know it has occurred at a cost to both the health of the cows and the nutritional content of their meat. Out-of-town grass-based beef operations, such as GreenBeef and the San Luis Obispo– based Paso Prime, are working to provide San Diegans the option

“There’s obviously a lot of green feed on a certified organic farm,” he tells me. “It’s kind of a no-brainer.”

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Cattle grazing on Sage Mountain Farms harvested cantaloup field.

Photo: Dhanraj Emanuel

We work with more than 700 U.S. family farmers and ranchers. These hardworking families maintain many of the traditional farming techniques that were handed down to them from their parents and grandparents. Raising livestock according to these timehonored practices is more than their livelihood – it’s a source of family pride. To find out how U.S. family farmers help create the finest tasting beef, pork, lamb and cage-free eggs, visit us at www.nimanranch.com/edible

www.nimanranch.com 36

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To meet our dedicated farmers and ranchers, scan the tag with your mobile phone. Get the free app at http://gettag.mobi

To find out how U.S. family farmers help create the finest tasting beef, pork, lamb and cage-free eggs, visit us at www.nimanranch.com/edible

of going back to the original—grass-fed—beef, with all the associated benefits. Meanwhile, local beef ranchers such as Ford are still staying true to the original role of cattle farmers, converting human-unusable foods, such as farm scraps and spent grain from a local brewery, into delicious meat. Operations such as Sage Mountain offer yet a third approach, being locally based and using some external resources. In a similar vein, Homegrown Meats starts its 100% grass-fed cattle at Mendenhall Ranch on Palomar Mountain and finishes them in Paso Robles, where pasture is more abundant.

To meet our dedicated farmers and ranchers, scan the tag with your mobile phone. Get the free app at http://gettag.mobi

www.nimanranch.com

Which approach—more local, or more grass-fed—you consider more appropriate depends on whether you see beef as a luxury good that is best produced in areas with lush pasture, that we can buy and bring into our community; or if you see local cattle as part of our own community’s sustainable agriculture infrastructure. Both perspectives have strong justification, and both can be delicious. And, as the market for local and grass-fed beef continues to grow, we can expect to see more of each approach. Jay Porter is the proprietor of The Linkery and El Take It Easy in North Park. The Linkery was named as one of the 100 Best Farm-to-Table Restaurants in America by Gourmet Magazine, October 2007, one of the 10 Top Gastropubs by Draft Magazine May/June, 2010, and one of the Top 10 New Places for Hot Dogs by Bon Appetit Magazine, August 2009.

GARDEN TO TABLE

HOME GARDENS & ORCHARDS RESTAURANT SUPPORTED AGRICULTURE SOLUTIONS ASSISTED LIVING FACILITIES CORPORATE & MULTIPLE UNIT DWELLINGS Contact us for a garden consultation

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We work with leading animal care experts to ensure our raising practices are the most humane in the industry. All our livestock are raised outdoors or in deeply bedded pens where they are able to root and roam just as nature intended. To find out how humane animal care helps create the finest tasting beef, pork, lamb and cage-free eggs, visit us at www.nimanranch.com/edible

www.nimanranch.com

To learn more about our humane animal care practices, scan the tag with your mobile phone. Get the free app at http://gettag.mobi

To learn more about what it takes to create the finest tasting meat in the world, visit us at www.nimanranch.com/edible

www.nimanranch.com Photo Courtesy of Red Rock Casino, Resort, & Spa · Las Vegas, NV

Scan the tag with your mobile phone to discover why top chefs trust Niman Ranch. Get the free app at http://gettag.mobi

Our family farmers understand the importance of preserving agricultural resources for future generations. That’s why they utilize responsible farming practices such as restorative crop rotation, which helps prevent soil erosion and encourages agricultural biodiversity. To find out how sustainable agriculture helps create the finest tasting beef, pork, lamb and cage-free eggs, visit us at www.nimanranch.com/edible

www.nimanranch.com 38

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To learn about our sustainable farming traditions, scan the tag with your mobile phone. Get the free app at http://gettag.mobi

San Diego Grown Exchange—connecting local producers with commercial buyers San Diego growers and food service pros hook up at www.sandiegogrown.com. Developed by the San Diego County Farm Bureau and funded by the County of San Diego Healthy Works Project, this website makes it easy for buyers and sellers to sign up, sign on, and do business.

s andiegog row n .co m shaping your health with real food

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organic, pasture fed, artisan cheeses and butter

Sustainable agriculture, humane animal care and the support of U.S. family farmers are the guiding principles upon which we’ve built our reputation. Each of these philosophies, working together, consistently delivers the highest quality, all-natural meats. To learn more about what it takes to create the finest tasting meat in the world, visit us at www.nimanranch.com/edible

www.nimanranch.com Photo Courtesy of Red Rock Casino, Resort, & Spa · Las Vegas, NV

Scan the tag with your mobile phone to discover why top chefs trust Niman Ranch. Get the free app at http://gettag.mobi

summer 2012

edible San Diego

Turf

Farm-to-you Meat Subscription meat. Meat CSA. Meat direct. By Evan Ross

hichever name you—or your friendly local rancher—prefers, it boils down to a carnivore’s delight: delicious, conscientiously raised meat by mail. Well, not necessarily by USPS, but if you’re familiar with the communitysupported agriculture (CSA) subscription model, whereby a supply of seasonal vegetables is delivered to you regularly by a local farm, you get the idea. Only in this case, you get protein in place of parsnips. Neither the produce CSA nor meat CSA is a new idea. In fact, both are part and parcel of the same concept, one initially brought to the United States in 1984 by Swiss community organizer Jan VanderTuin and advanced stateside by Massachusetts advocate Robyn Van En, before taking off across the nation. Now numbering approximately 12,500 in the United States—with more than a couple dozen in San Diego and surrounding environs—CSA farms seek to re-establish connections between city dwellers and their food sources, as well as preserve farmland and sustain smaller, family-run farming operations. Here in sunny San Diego we are blessed with amazing weather almost year-around, as well as a multitude of resourceful farmers capitalizing on the climate to

provide a bounty of wonderful fruits and vegetables. This, coupled with a growing consumer consciousness about the quality and origins of what’s on the table, provides conditions that are ripe for direct-buy options. So, with all this CSA-ing going on, where’s the beef … or pork, or chicken?

Freezer Full of Barbecue There are a number of local meat CSAs available to satisfy your carnivorous cravings. If it has taken the ranchers a bit to catch up with the farmers in the CSA department, they must be excused (and commended) as there are significant economic and logistical challenges to securing adequate pasture land, USDA-approved processing, and packing and transport. But local meat CSAs are humming now, and offer lucky San Diegans options as diverse as grass-fed and Green-Fed™ beef; pastured lamb, pork and chicken; and local rabbit and pheasant. Options abound to get yourself live-stocked; all you need is a computer (to sign up), a little up-front purchase capital and some available freezer space, and you’ll be set for a summer’s worth of barbecuing fun. Below are several local purveyors who offer meat CSA programs. Like their stories, products and processes, each is a little different. Together, they provide a range of choices to fill your empty plate.

Da-Le Ranch Dave Heafner and Ashlie and Leslie Pesic of Da-Le Ranch are familiar faces at many San Diego County farmers’ markets, including the Little Italy Mercato, Rancho Santa Fe, Solana Beach, Escondido (Tues.), Encinitas Station (Wed.), North Park and Borrego Springs. They sell naturally pastured 40

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chicken, turkey, duck, goose, pork, rabbit and grass-fed lamb that they raise on their 22-plus-acre Lake Elsinore ranch using sustainable farming methods. They also sell pheasant, quail and grass-fed beef and bison that is owned by Da-Le but raised elsewhere in the region. Quarter, half and full sides of beef, pork and lamb are sold by custom order. All meats sold are USDA or custom processed. Da-Le’s CSA option is a minimum 10-pound share that you can pick up weekly, biweekly or monthly at the above farmers’ markets. More pick-up locations are in the pipeline. Each 10-pound share is about 35– 40% chicken, with the remainder a mix of beef, pork and lamb. Sign up for the CSA at any of Da-Le’s booths at the farmers’ markets, or by email: dave@da-le-ranch. com. Please include a telephone number in your email.

Green Beef The Kubitschek family, Southern California natives who live and toil in San Diego County but raise their grass-fed cattle on the family farm in Missouri, only sell the product here through their locally based CSA. The family chose Missouri for the lush grass pastures that grow without the need for irrigation or fertilization, where they can roam their herd away from chemicals and pesticides. Their cattle are 100% grass-finished, never fed corn, and pastured without the use of hormones or antibiotics. They are certified American Grassfed® and Animal Welfare Approved. Green Beef CSA memberships run for three months and deliveries occur the first Saturday of each month at the Golden Hill

Farmers’ Market in San Diego, as well as Tuesday mornings and Thursday evenings in San Marcos. You can read more about Green Beef and sign up for their CSA at eatgreenbeef.com.

J&J Grassfed Beef J&J Grassfed Beef was born of a shared vision for a sustainable agriculture venture. It became a reality when partners Jack Rice and Jay Shipman secured grant funding for an organic beef production project in 2003. Today, J&J Grassfed Beef offers a sustainable production program that emphasizes environmental stewardship to provide the highest quality meat. The all-natural, start-to-finish grass-fed cattle are pastured year-round. They are never confined to feedlots or administered growth hormones or antibiotics. J&J’s CSA program launched in 2008. It offers five packages that range from six to 17 pounds of various cuts of beef. Orders can be picked up monthly from many farmers’ markets or at established CSA host locations. More info about J&J can be found at jandjgrassfedbeef.com.

Sage Mountain Beef (Green-Fed™) Phil and Juany Noble are a couple of the farmers-turned-ranchers mentioned above. Based in Hemet, they were best known for selling their delicious produce from their certified organic Sage Mountain Farm at farmers’ markets, and under the Inland Empire CSA, before launching Green-Fed CSA (Sage Mountain Beef ) in 2011. The unique element of their CSA project is the 100% “Green-Fed” diet the Sage Mountain steers enjoy and the “polyface” approach the Nobles employ. Because Sage Mountain also grows fields of organic vegetables and greens, the cattle are able to graze on a multitude of post-harvest crops, after which the fields are tilled and replanted. This process is good for the soil and good for the herd. Additionally, the cattle are free of growth hormones, stimulants and antibiotics, and the resulting beef is dry-aged for 14–21 days.

A standard Green-Fed CSA membership runs six months and deliveries are made throughout San Diego and Riverside counties on the first Saturday or Sunday of the month, depending on location. For more information, or to join the CSA, check out sagemountainbeef.com.

SonRise Ranch Self-described “lunatic rancher” Douglas Lindamood and family may get strange stares from the neighbors for their “obscure” ranching techniques, but those on the tasting end of the fork appreciate his commitment to sustainable methods. These methods include rotational grazing—regularly moving the herds to new rangeland and freshly grown grass— which decreases the operation’s impact to the land, and results in healthier animals that don’t require antibiotics. In addition to its 100% grass-fed beef, which is dry-aged for 14–28 days, SonRise also offers free-range chicken, pork and lamb. The antibiotic-free pork and lamb is pastured and, like the cattle, is processed by a small-scale local butcher to avoid the undesirable effects of the factory slaughterhouse. SonRise offers beef and pork CSA programs, as well as a mixed beef/pork option. Chicken or lamb can be added to any program and customers can choose one-, three- or six-month memberships that can be picked up at any of the Hillcrest, Little Italy, Encinitas or Vista farmers’ markets, or at the SonRise Warehouse. For more info or to sign up, visit son-riseranchstore.com.

TAJ Farms At TAJ Farms, Jack Ford is focused on partnerships and holistic sustainability. As he says, TAJ Farms’ CSA program is as organic as its ranching processes. Ford works with each of his customers to understand exactly what high-quality meat product they are looking for, so he can best meet their particular needs. The Valley Center ranch then provides

portions of pork, beef, veal, lamb, goat and poultry that make the most sense for each individual and buyer group. As an enthusiast and proponent of the “nose to tail” approach to using the entire animal, Ford also promotes education to these customers so they can buy more responsibly. TAJ Farms only feeds its antibiotic-free animals oat hay, vegetable protein and spent grain from Lightning Brewery. They partner with Triple B Ranches winery on farm-to-table events and work with a small, local, USDA-certified butcher to provide their products to restaurants. Next on the agenda is providing dropoff locations for customers. For more information on TAJ Farms, call 760-6707012, email jaccoo@sbcglobal.net or go to tajfarms.net. Evan Ross is a frustrated chef, brewer, sommelier and organic farmer trapped in the body of a foodie, craft beer and wine lover and great appreciator of those inherently connected to the land. Writing is his expressive connection to these passions.

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edible San Diego

FRESH. LOCAL. SUSTAINABLE Hands-on Cooking Classes

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Single-order beef packages: Buy in sampler, eighth-beef, quarter-beef, half-beef and whole-beef quantities. CSA shares: Join for 12 months or 6 months in 5-lb,10-lb or 20-lb quantities. Delivered to convenient pick-up locations. Farmers Markets Visit us at the Hillcrest , Little Italy, Rancho Santa Fe and Encinitas farmers markets to pick up single servings.

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LE DA LE DA-LE

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beef • pork • lamb • Goats Custom cut, smoke and wrap for all wild game, fish and farm-raised animals. Visit us for a list of local suppliers.

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No additives or preservatives in our fresh sausage! All low fat and delicious!! old-fashioned, full-service butcher shop featuring prime beef • pork lamb • poultry Visit us at: Vista Farmers Market saturday, 8–noon melrose avenue in front of the courthouse Del Mar Farmers Market saturday 1-4 pm 1050 Camino Del mar

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edible San Diego

Turf

Going Whole Hog

The bigger the buy, the smaller the price

By Matt Skenazy

arely do the principles of economy intersect with those of the locavore. Think of the meat industry: On one hand, you can go to Costco and buy 50 beef patties for close to pennies each. On the other, you can go to the farmers’ market and buy meat from someone local—someone who can tell you about the meat and how the animal was raised. This will cost more than pennies. What if you want meat that’s raised ethically, by a producer you trust, on a certain type of feed, but you still want the monetary benefits of buying in bulk? Then it’s time to buy the cow. It wasn’t long ago that purchasing a whole cow or pig was the norm. Traveling butchers went door to door and families rented out space at the local freezer locker. The convenience of the grocery store meat counter changed all this, but with the emergence of farmers’ markets, CSAs and the farm-to-table movement, more and more consumers want to buy their meat directly from the producer. There are, essentially, three steps between you and a freezer full of beef (or pork, or goat, or lamb): getting an animal, having it slaughtered and getting it butchered. It’s not, however, as simple as it sounds. “You don’t just pick an animal, kill it and eat. There are a lot of logistics,” says Dave Heafner, co-owner of Da-Le Ranch in Lake Elsinore. Because of this, many ranchers who sell live animals to individual customers also offer to have the animal slaughtered and butchered, streamlining the process. Whether you want to pick out an animal and let the producer organize the rest or you want to be involved every step of the way, first you need an animal. For the sake of simplicity, we’ll focus on beef. Most American beef is from Middle America. Luckily, though, San Diego and its surrounding counties have quite a few options when it comes to cows. Live cows are sold per pound, by their field weight, which is called “on the hoof.” You can find a cow that has been raised on a steady diet of fresh watermelon, eggplant, squash and alfalfa (Sage Mountain Beef ) or one that’s been raised in oaklined pastures, grazing on nothing but California grass (Palomar Mountain Ranch). Then comes the slaughterhouse. To slaughter a cow you need a mobile slaughterer, like Cliff Kwock of Cliff ’s Meats in

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Butchering is where the meat begins to resemble the cuts we’re used to seeing at the grocery store. This is the point where you can customize your order however you like. Do you want thin steaks or thick ones? Do you want plenty of surface fats on your cuts, or do you want the meat closely trimmed and leaner?

San Jacinto, who will drive out to wherever you have the animal. Or you need to get the animal to a custom slaughterhouse like Talone Custom Slaughter in Escondido. Either way, the job is essentially the same: First, the cow is killed with a stun gun or a shot from a .22-caliber rifle. Within 15 seconds it’s hung up and bled out, before being skinned and gutted. The slaughterer will then deliver the animal, in quarters, to the butcher of your choice for the final processing.

A live cow ready for slaughter weighs about 1,000 pounds and will yield 55–65% of that weight once it is slaughtered, what’s referred to as “hanging weight.” Once the butcher gets hold of the carcass, he or she turns it into approximately 25% ground meat, 25% steaks and chops, 25% roasts and 25% waste. When all is said and done, your 1,000-pound live animal will be converted into 450 pounds of wrapped beef. Note that these numbers are general estimates. Cows vary in size and weight, depending on the fatness and muscling of the animal; add the butchering you request and the amount of meat yielded will be dramatically different. For example, do you want bone-in or boneless cuts? How lean do you want your ground beef ? More bones and more fat means a weightier yield. Meat from a whole cow—what ranchers call a “full beef ”—will take up about 20 cubic feet of freezer space. For reference, the empty freezer space of an average home refrigerator is around 4.8 cubic feet and can fit 50–70 lbs. of meat, about an eighth of a

BUY AN ANIMAL

GET IT SLAUGHTERED

Palomar Mountain Ranch: 760-742-3330; palomarmountainranch.info

Paul Schaner: 714-315-0403

continued on page 46

Cliff Kwock, Cliff’s Meats: 951-654-2960

Da-Le Ranch: Pork, lamb and beef on the hoof and as ¼, ½ and full sides. da-le-ranch. com; dave@da-le-ranch.com Sage Mountain Beef: 951-990-7460; sagemountainbeef.com

Talone’s Custom Slaughter: 760-745-0705 Bisher’s Quality Meats: 760-789-1488; bishersmeat.com

GET IT BUTCHERED

Brandt Beef: brandtbeef.com; thetruenatural@brandtbeef.com

T&H Meats: 760-471-9192; tandhsausage. com

RC Livestock: Cattle and sheep. 760-723-9193

Cliff’s Meats: 951-654-2960

Iowa Meat Farms: Roasting pigs and lambs. 619-281-5766; iowameatfarms.com

Bisher’s Quality Meats: 760-789-1488; bishersmeat.com

Double R Ranch: Meat goats for slaughter. 760-782-3614; doublerranch.org

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edible San Diego

beef or half a pig. (A 250- to 270-pound hog will yield 120–140 pounds of meat). So a stand-alone freezer, or the freezers of a handful of close friends, might be necessary. According to the USDA, once frozen and stored, beef is good for between three months (for the liver and variety meats) and 12 months (for the roasts, steaks, chops and ribs). But, as with most food, the sooner you eat it, the better. “Your meat is not going to last as long in an old traditional freezer,” says Eric Brandt, managing partner of Brandt Beef in Brawley. “You gotta consume it faster. I’d give it three months.” If you don’t have a massive dinner party planned, and aren’t sure your

family can deal with all that meat in just 90 days, it’s OK. Many meat suppliers offer the option of purchasing a half or a quarter of a beef, allowing you the luxury of a freezer full of fine local beef without the stress of a freezer full of fine local beef that you have to eat right now. “I love that it’s getting people excited about beef and cooking cuts that they wouldn’t typically get in a grocery store,” says Brandt. “It’s bringing the culture of beef back into the family.” Matt Skenazy is a freelance writer and editor. His work has appeared in The Surfer’s Journal, Climbing Magazine, Sierra and elsewhere. He is the 2012 MillerMcCune Fellow.

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edible San Diego

REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM

Food Rules: An Eaters Manual By Michael Pollan

With illustrations by Maira Kalman Copyright ÂŠ The Penguin Press (November, 2011)

hen Michael asked if I would like to illustrate this book, I said two things. First, YES. Absolutely YES. Second, that Cheezdoodles had a beloved place in our family history. He did not hold that against me. This is a great country. Vast. Complicated. With plenty of room for extremes. Everyone eats food. That is the universal connector. Life is fragile. Fleeting. What do we want? To be healthy. To celebrate and to love and live life to the fullest. So here comes Michael Pollan with this little (monumental) book. A humanistic and smart book that describes a sane and happy world of eating. It asks us, gently, to hit the reset button on manufactured food and go back in time. I like going back in time. It gives me more time. To walk around and savor the world and the food in itâ&#x20AC;Ś ~ Maira Kalman

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RULE 1. EAT FOOD. These days this is easier said than done, especially when seventeen thousand new products show up in the supermarket each year, all vying for your food dollar. But most of these items don’t deserve to be called food—I prefer to call them edible foodlike substances. They’re highly processed concoctions designed by food scientists, consisting mostly of ingredients derived from corn and soy that no normal person keeps in the pantry, and they contain chemical additives with which the human body has not been long acquainted. Today much of the challenge of eating well comes down to choosing real food and avoiding these industrial novelties.

RULE 17. BUY YOUR SNACKS AT THE FARMERS’ MARKET. You’ll find yourself snacking on fresh or dried fruits and nuts—real food—rather than chips and sweets.

RULE 24. WHEN YOU EAT REAL FOOD, YOU DON’T NEED RULES.

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edible San Diego

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Celebrating Sustainable Food Building Healthy Communities Promoting Food Justice GOOD, CLEAN & FAIR! Slow Food is committed to preserving food traditions and reviving the table as a center of family and community.

Join Slow Food and make a real difference. Slow Food San Diego • slowfoodsandiego.net Slow Food Temecula Valley • temeculavalleyslowfood.org Slow Food Urban San Diego • slowfoodurbansandiego.org

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summer 2012

gluten-free guide

edible San Diego

SAUSAGEFEST Wednesday, June 20, 2012, Jsix presents SausageFest. Twelve chefs will compete for your votes. $10 sausage bands. Litres of beer. Take home stein. 5:30 pm at LOUNGEsix 616 J Street • SDSausageFest.com

RESOURCES & ADVERTISERS When you visit, please thank these advertisers for their support of Edible San Diego.

2012 SAN DIEGO COUNTY FAIR JUNIOR LIVESTOCK AUCTION Saturday, June 30, 2012. Top quality, locally grown, hand-raised beef, lamb, veal, turkey, chicken, rabbit, goat and pork. • (858) 7924283 • sdfair.com/entry (scroll down and click on Junior Livestock Auction)

Find a complimentary copy of Edible San Diego at any of our advertisers and at local farmers’ markets. Other distribution spots are listed on ediblesandiego.com.

BOOKS A LIFETIME OF RECIPES: FABULOUS FRESH FRUIT Budget friendly, quick & easy recipes for local in-season produce. • aLifetimeofRecipes.com

CATERING INDULGE CONTEMPORARY CATERING Indulge Contemporary Catering is a custom caterer and designer specializing in weddings, events, and corporate accounts. 277 3rd Ave., Chula Vista • 619934-5700 • indulgewithstyle.com

EDUCATION ART ACADEMY OF SAN DIEGO Features fine arts classes and workshops taught by professional artists throughout the year. 3784 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 231-3900 • artacademyofsandiego.com

CUPS Offers a variety of intimate, hands-on cooking classes in their state-of-the-art teaching kitchen for experienced cooks and beginners alike. 7857 Girard Avenue, La Jolla • (858) 459-CUPS (2877) • cupslj.com

EVENTS COLLABORATION KITCHEN Fun, educational monthly cooking demos with top San Diego chefs. Brought to you by Catalina Offshore Products and Specialty Produce. facebook.com/ collaborationkitchen 6TH ANNUAL SAN DIEGO INTERNATIONAL BEER FESTIVAL Three days, June 22-June 24, 140 breweries, 300+ beers from around the world. 2 sessions Friday, 2 sessions Saturday, and one session Sunday with special emphasis on San Diego beers.• sdfair.com/beerfestival

LOVING LOCAL MUSIC & LOCAL FOOD Sunday, July 1, 2012, starting at 3:00 pm, meet and mingle with the artists, station manager and membership director at a benefit for KSDS Jazz 88.3 at LOUNGEsix on the Solamar Terrace. Live local jazz. Hor d’oeuvres compliments of Jsix. Later in the Jsix Fez Room enjoy a 4 course seated dinner with wine. Tickets here: secure.publicbroadcasting.net/ ksds/JSix/pledge.pledgemain EDIBLE SAN DIEGO’S EAT DRINK LOCAL WEEK September 1-8. Eight days of ticketed events supporting restaurants that source locally. Benefits Olivewood Gardens, Seeds@City, and Wild Willow Farm • ediblesandiego.com FIELD TO FORK CELEBRATION Sunday, October 14th, 2-6 pm at Robert Renzoni Vineyards. Slow Food Temecula Valley invites you to their 5th Annual Field to the Fork Celebration, the premier local artisan food, wine and beer event. Proceeds go to SFTV gchool garden programs. slowfoodtv.org

The Fishery

Seafood Market & Restaurant

Chef Paul Arias

invites you to join him for weekly

Tuesday Tastings

LOCAL MARKETPLACE

Wild Fish ~ Local Farms Open Daily Serving Lunch, Dinner & Sunday Brunch

5040 Cass street, North PaCifiC BeaCh 858-272-9985 Wholesale: 858-272-9940

www.thefishery.com

edible San Diego

summer 2012

BRIAN’S FARMERS’ MARKETS Serving the Mission Hills (W, 3-7), UTC (Thur, 3-7), Imperial Beach (F, 2-7:30), Golden Hill (Sat, 9:30-1:30), Point Loma (Sun, 9:30-2:30), and NEW Morena District (Tue, 3-7) areas with weekly markets and a unique farmers’ market CSA. Produce, flowers, bread, honey, olive oil, pastured chicken and rabbit, local fish, prepared foods and crafts. EBT Market Bucks accepted. • (619) 795-3363 • BriansFarmersMarkets.com DEL MAR FARMERS’ MARKET Located in the Del Mar City Hall parking lot. Open from 1-4 pm on Saturdays year round. Fine crafted cheese, fresh fish, meat, honey, fruit, vegetables, flowers, prepared foods and crafts. 1050 Camino Del Mar • (760) 521-0643 • delmarfarmersmarket.org ENCINITAS STATION FARMERS’ MARKET Located at the corner of E Street & Vulcan, parking lot b, every Wednesday from 5 to 8 pm May-Sept, 4 to 7 pm Oct-April. High quality produce, meat and artisan food vendors only; no arts & crafts and no hot foods. Remember to bring your own bags: the market is a single-use plastic bag free zone. HILLCREST FARMERS’ MARKET Every Sunday from 9-2pm at the DMV. Locally grown, in-season produce, meat, fish, bread, artisan foods, gifts, arts, crafts and flowers, and a wide variety of hot prepared food items with an emphasis on international cuisine. 3960 Normal Street • (619) 299-3330 • hillcrestfarmersmarket.com

NORTH SAN DIEGO FARMERS’ MARKETS Open every Wednesday, 11-2pm, and Sundays, 10-4 pm, at the Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead, a beautiful environment supporting local artisans and farmers. Produce, eggs, honey, artisan foods and lots of hot food for lunch. I-15 at Via Rancho Pkwy, Escondido • NorthSDFarmersMarket.com RON LACHANCE FARMERS’ MARKETS Serving Mira Mesa (Tue, 3-7), Kearny Mesa (Fri, 10:30-1:30), Leucadia (Sun, 10-2), and the NEW Pacific Highlands (Thur, 3:30-7) farmers’ markets. Local farm-fresh produce, seafood, bread, flowers and specialty foods. • (858) 2727054 • leucadia101.com/ SANTEE FARMERS’ MARKET Every Wednesday from 3-7pm in the abandoned school parking lot. Fresh, sustainable produce, bread, pastured chicken, cheese and more. 10445 Mission Gorge Road • (619) 449-8427 • santeefarmersmarket.com SD WEEKLY MARKETS Serving Pacific Beach (Tue, 2-6:30), North Park (Thu, 3-7), and Little Italy (Sat, 9-1:30) with weekly markets offering cheese, pastured meats, local seafood, honey, fruit, vegetables, flowers, prepared foods and crafts. Don’t miss the Market Basket Shop, 519 W. Date St. in Little Italy, open 7 days • (619) 233-3901 • sdweeklymarkets.com SUZIE’S FARM & SUNGROWN ORGANICS San Diego based organic farm and CSA grows, sells and delivers USDA certified organic produce and micro greens to

chefs 5 days a week, and to the public at many local farmers’ markets and through their CSA. (619) 662-1780 • suziesfarm.com • (800) 995-7776 • sungrownorganics.com

FOOD REVIEWS & DISCUSSIONS LET THERE BE BITE LTBB helps you make the best food choices at your local store and online from trusted vendors, and provides tips on becoming your own four-star chef. • lettherebebite.com

FOODIE DESTINATIONS ALCHEMY Alchemy serves light, healthy, sophisticated cultural fare, craft beer and cocktails. Small bites, substantial tapas and full size entrees made from highquality ingredients and local produce. 1503 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 255-0616 • alchemysandiego.com BLIND LADY ALE HOUSE A certified purveyor of honest pints, BLAH offers a finely curated lineup of local and craft brews, Neapolitan style pizza topped with fresh made mozzarella, local veggies and charcuterie housemade from sustainably produced meat. 3416 Adams Avenue, San Diego • (619) 255-2491 • blindladyalehouse.com BLUE RIBBON ARTISAN PIZZERIA Supports local farmers’ markets and sustainable practices. Pizzas fired in a true wood burning oven feature house-made dough, fennel sausage from sustainable Berkshire pork, handstretched fresh mozzarella. Produce

www.pralinepatisserie.com

house made sausage and charcuterie, artisan cheeses, local produce—and pair it with local craft brews, boutique wines and classic cocktails at this new restaurant. 267 El Camino Real, Encinitas • craftsmantavern@ gmail.com • craftsmantavern.com • OPENS Summer 2012

is local and organic. 897 South Coast Hwy 101, Encinitas • (760) 634-7671 • blueribbonpizzaria.com BROOKLYN GIRL EATERY Locally owned and family operated. A casual neighborhood American eatery with a sustainable farm-to-table attitude, full artisanal bar with a great selection of locally produced craft beers on tap, and an extensive and affordable wine list. 4033 Goldfinch • (619) 2964600 • brooklyngirleatery.com BURGER LOUNGE Great tasting hamburgers made from healthy ingredients produced in a sustainable environment. Their simple premium quality menu appeals to health conscious diners, vegetarians, salad lovers and diners wanting a great hamburger. Kensington, Coronado, Little Italy, Hillcrest, Gaslamp and La Jolla. burgerlounge.com CARNITA’S SNACK SHACK “The Shack” serves slow food-inspired, pork-centric American cuisine, and snacks. Poultry, produce, beer and bread are locally sourced, with Niman Ranch beef and Vande Rose pork. 2632 University Avenue, San Diego • (619) 294-7675 • carnitassnackshack.com COLLABORATION KITCHEN Fun, educational monthly cooking demos with top San Diego chefs. Brought to you by Catalina Offshore Products and Specialty Produce. facebook.com/ collaborationkitchen CRAFTSMAN NEW AMERICAN TAVERN Chef Wade Hageman of Blue Ribbon Artisan Pizzeria will offer hand crafted, farm-to-table comfort food—short ribs, mac n’ cheese,

EL TAKE IT EASY Mexican wine country cuisine made with local produce, pastured meats and local seafood. They feature local wines (San Diego County and Baja California), craft beers and cocktails made with artisanal mescal, tequila, American whiskey and other spirits. 3926 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 291-1859 • eltakeiteasy.com FARM HOUSE CAFE Chef Olivier Bioteau and wife Rochelle present rustic, country French cuisine in a quality, affordable neighborhood eatery. Featuring local, fresh and seasonally appropriate produce, meat and cheese. Excellent and eclectic wine selection. 2121 Adams Avenue, San Diego • (619) 269-9662 • farmhousecafesd.com HARNEY SUSHI A perennial “best sushi” pick of San Diegans, Harney serves up tasty and beautiful sushi made with sustainably harvested fish. 3964 Harney Street, San Diego • (619) 295-3272 & 301 Mission Avenue, Oceanside • (760) 967-1820 • harneysushi.com FISH 101 Local and seasonal fish, shellfish and produce highlighted here. All seafood is sourced in accordance with Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program. 1468 N Coast Hwy 101, Encinitas • (760) 943-6221 • fish101restaurant.com

Cultural Fare & Cocktails served nightly Brunch on Weekends

Artisan Caramel Sauces

1503 30th Street in South Park 619.255.0616 www.alchemysandiego.com

summer 2012

edible San Diego

JSIX Cooks Confablieri member Executive Chef Christian Graves embraces farm-to-table and boat-to-pan cooking by sourcing locally and using made-from-scratch methods. His thoughtful and inspiring cuisine is always delicious and delightful. 616 J Street, San Diego • (619) 531-8744 • jsixrestaurant.com LOCAL HABIT Local Habit seeks to create a community based around local organic produce, meats and craft brewed beers. Handcrafted pizzas, sandwiches and small plates featuring the freshest produce from local organic farmers and award-winning craft brews. 3827 5th Avenue, San Diego • (619) 795-4770 • mylocalhabit.com MIHO GASTROTRUCK MIHO Gastrotruck uses fresh, local, and thoughtfully sourced ingredients to create hand-crafted street food that is affordable, convenient, and delicious. To locate where the truck will set up next, follow them on Twitter @ MIHOgastrotruck• MIHOgastrotruck.com MITCH’S SEAFOOD Casual waterfront dining in the historic fishing neighborhood of Point Loma, serving up locally caught seafood with a view of the bay and the San Diego Sportfishing Fleet. 1403 Scott Street, San Diego • 619-222-8787 • mitchsseafood.com RED MARLIN At the Hyatt on scenic Mission Bay, this modern, yet warm waterfront restaurant offers a sophisticated menu by Chef de Cuisine Danny Bannister with many sustainable, locally sourced ingredients. Casual enough for an afternoon appetizer, and impressive enough for a

very special occasion. 1441 Quivira Road San Diego • (619) 221-4868 • hyatt.com/ gallery/redmarlin/site.html RITUAL TAVERN Unpretentious, warm and pretty. The Ritual serves humanely raised natural Niman meat, Jidori chicken, sustainable seafood, and locally grown organic vegetables in simple, delicious dishes in the cozy dining rooms, on the front porch and back patio, and at their beautiful bar. Great wine and craft beer menu. 4095 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 283-1720 • ritualtavern.com SBICCA A cozy and award winning neighborhood restaurant serving traditional California cuisine with a comfortable and welcoming attitude and an ocean view. Given Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence” as the 2011 gold Medallion Recipient for Best Neighborhood Restaurant. 215 15th Street, Del Mar • (858) 481-1001 • sbiccabistro.com STARLITE Dinner. Cocktails. Late night dining. Starlite offers handmade cuisine that uses the year-round abundant produce available locally. The menu changes frequently to accommodate seasonal products available in San Diego. 21 and up. 3175 India Street, San Diego • (619) 358-9766 • starlitesandiego.com TENDER GREENS A local favorite, Tender Greens offers farm-to-fork, organic classics along with chef driven daily specials highlighting the best of seasonal ingredients, local farms (one is just a few blocks away) and artisan foods. 2400 Historic Decatur

Road in Liberty Station • (619) 226-6254 • tendergreensfood.com TERRA AMERICAN BISTRO In the East College District, Chef Jeff Rossman presents New American food with emphasis on ingredients and preparation styles from North, South and Central America, and using the bounty of local, sustainable and organic ingredients. 7091 El Cajon Blvd, San Diego • (619) 293-7088 • terrasd.com THE FISHERY With a premier seafood market at the center of the restaurant, Chef Paul Arias’s menu is market driven and changes seasonally, using sustainably raised and caught fish and fresh, local produce. Try the 3-course “Tuesday Tastings.” Optional wine pairings. 5040 Cass Street, San Diego • (858) 272-9985 • thefishery.com THE LINKERY Setting the bar for local and sustainable in San Diego, the Linkery serves great food made with local produce, handmade sausages, local seafood and pastured meats. Ten taps of local craft beer, and local wine. Open every day and late every night. 3794 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 255-8778 • thelinkery.com THE RED DOOR RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR A casually elegant neighborhood hangout. Using organic produce sourced from their own ½-acre garden, local seafood and humanely raised meat, Chef Miguel Valdez produces re-imagined versions of familiar dishes. 741 W. Washington Street, San Diego • (619) 295-6000 • thereddoorsd.com

TIGER! TIGER! From the folks who brought you BLAH, find house baked breads, lots of excellent draught beer, hot sandwiches, oysters and lunch served Friday – Sunday. 3025 El Cajon Blvd. • (619) 987-0401 • tigertigertavern.com

GARDEN RESOURCES GARDNER & BLOOME Helping create beautiful gardens for over 85 years, find Gardner & Bloome premium organic garden soil, potting soil, mulch and fertilizer products at Anderson’s La Costa, L&M Fertilizer (Temecula & Fallbrook), Myrtle Creek (Fallbrook), Plant World (Escondido), and El Plantio (Escondido) Nurseries. • kellogggarden.com GREEN THUMB NURSERY Find an excellent selection of organic and natural solutions for your edible garden and knowledgeable staff to answer your questions. 1019 W. San Marcos Blvd. • (760) 744-3822 • supergarden.com REVOLUTION LANDSCAPE Specializing in the design, installation and maintenance of edible gardens and eco-friendly, water wise landscapes for businesses and private residences. • (858) 337-6944 • revolutionlandscape.com SAN DIEGO BOTANIC GARDEN Explore four miles of garden trails, enjoy flowering trees, majestic palms, and the nation’s largest bamboo collection. Plants from all over the world thrive here and the topography provides a variety of microclimates all within 37 acres. 230 Quail Gardens Drive, Encinitas • (760) 436-3036 • SDBGarden.org

• Featuring California North Coast Reds, Russian River Chardonnay and Lake Country Sauvignon Blanc

• Low-sulfite wine in reusable bottles

edible San Diego

summer 2012

th Cell

in e

320 South Cedros Ave. #400 Solana Beach 858-847-WINE (9463) carruthcellars.com

a rs

Tasting room open to public Mon.–Sat. 12pm to 9pm Sunday 12pm to 6pm Cellar Club Members taste for free.

• Organic wine from sustainably grown grapes

LOCAL MARKETPLACE CONTINUED

• Newly expanded tasting room with wine lounge

ry on Cedr

URBAN ESCAPES A unique design and build landscape contractor specializing in transforming ordinary yards into edible and drought tolerant landscapes and outdoor living spaces that engage, delight and nourish the client. • (619) 933-3331 • uelandscape.com URBAN PLANTATIONS The Urban Plantations staff has over 25 years experience providing home orchard care, garden coaching and permaculture solutions, including complete garden installation. They can also teach you to care for your garden organically, keeping soil and plants healthy. 1010 University Ave. #1877, San Diego • (619) 563-5771 • urbanplantations.com

GROCERY BARONS MARKET There are four neighborhood Barons Markets with a large selection of natural and specialty food, like grass fed beef, organic cereal and bread, and local craft beer at low prices. The organic produce section is expanding, with many locally sourced items. Point Loma • Rancho Bernardo • Temecula • Wildomar/ Murrieta • baronsmarket.com JIMBO’S... NATURALLY! A local, family owned grocery with four locations that provides the highest quality organic and natural foods at reasonable prices. Jimbo’s is committed to supporting organic growing practices, and they are staunch supporters of the drive to label GMOs. 4S Ranch • Escondido • Carlsbad • Carmel Valley • jimbos.com SOL MARKETS Real Food. Close to home. SOL (Seasonal, Organic, Local) Markets’ goal is to offer the freshest, healthiest locally sourced (within 100 or so miles) foods seven days a week. Liberty Station, 2855 Perry Road, San Diego • (619) 795-6000 • solmarkets.com SPECIALTY PRODUCE Local, organic and sustainably sourced produce from over a dozen farms each week. We promote freshly picked, organic produce that hasn’t traveled thousand of miles or sat on grocery shelves. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • (619) 295-3172 • specialtyproduce.com

HEALTH & BEAUTY CLEA SHANNON, CHHC Clea Shannon, Cerified Holistic Health Coach, will be your guide, advocate, coach and trainer on your journey to Live Inspired Today to help you make daily choices that establish a sense of balance and quality of life through fitness of

mind, body and spirit. (619) 567-9642 • cleashannon.com RADIANCE YOGA & THERAPEUTIC CENTER The experienced, caring teachers at Radiance guide you through the postures gradually at a comfortable yet challenging pace. Yoga, therapeutic yoga, prenatal and kid’s yoga, personal fitness and massage therapy offered. Private and group classes daily. • (619) 299-1443 • radyoga.com THRIVE WELLNESS Thrive Wellness in Hillcrest provides education, fitness training and lifestyle programs. Acupuncturists, massage therapists and other specialty doctors help you reach your highest goals in health and nutrition. They stock many health products too. 4080 Centre Street, Suite 202, San Diego • (619) 795-4422 • thrivewellness.com

HOME & GARDEN LIVING FRENCH GARDEN SHOPPE Natural home and garden furnishing store in Little Italy with many elegantly crafted, durable items. Find a wonderful array of indoor and outdoor furnishings, kitchenware, candles, linens, specialty foods and cards. 2307 India Street, San Diego • (619) 2384700 • frenchgardenshoppe.com PROGRESS Progress in Burlingame stocks conscientious products for the home and garden, sourced from small design studios. They are passionate about quality and accessible pricing. 2225 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 280-5501 • progresssouthpark.com WILLIAMS-SONOMA The premier specialty retailer of gourmet cookware, cooks’ tools, cutlery, appliances, bakeware, tabletop & barware, outdoor cooking and agrarian (garden & homestead) resources. Three locations in the region: Fashion Valley, (619) 295-0510 • Westfield UTC, (858) 597-0611 • Promenade in Temecula, (951) 296-0061 • williams-sonoma.com

MEAT DA-LE RANCH Fresh, sustainably raised pork, lamb, beef, bison, rabbit, chicken, duck, goose, pheasant, quail and turkey by the cut at Little Italy, Rancho Santa Fe, Solana Beach, Escondido, Encinitas, North Park and Borrego Springs farmers’ markets. Custom order beef, pork and lamb by the side, half or quarter. CSA weekly, biweekly and monthly options. • da-leranch.com/ • dave@da-le-ranch.com

DEL MAR FAIR JR. LIVESTOCK AUCTION Saturday, June 30, 2012. Top quality, locally grown, hand-raised beef, lamb, veal, turkey, chicken, rabbit, goat and pork. • (858) 7924283 • sdfair.com/entry (scroll down and click on Junior Livestock Auction) GREEN BEEF San Diego’s premier grass fed beef CSA. The Kubitschek family has been raising grass-fed beef since 1968. Once a month they deliver CSA shares of their healthy, fresh and delicious American Grassfed Association Tier 1 certified, Animal Welfare Approved grass-fed beef to two convenient locations in the county, Golden Hill Farmers’ Market (Sat), and in San Marcos (Tue, Thur). • (888) 524-1484 • eatgreenbeef.com MEATMEN Albert Juarez makes artisan dry sausages using an old world, cold fermentation process: they are hand formed, then hung and slow dried for 6 weeks in small batches. Find MeatMen at Ocean Beach (Wed), La Mesa (Fri), Poway (Sat), Leucadia (Sun) and both Oceanside farmers’ markets (Thur), and at SOL Market in Liberty Station. • (619) 7089849 • meatmenstore.com NIMAN RANCH To produce consistently good tasting, all natural beef, pork, lamb and smoked and prepared meats, Niman Ranch works with small U.S. family farmers to ensure that animals are humanely raised outdoors under strict animal handling protocols based on recommendations by Dr. Temple Grandin. Animals always have access to fresh, clean water and are able to express their natural behaviors. • nimanranch.com SAGE MOUNTAIN GREENFED™ BEEF CSA Using a “polyface” farm approach, Phil Noble’s cattle enjoy a unique diet of watermelon, eggplant, onion potato, tomato, butternut squash plants, alfalfa, wheat grasses and other forages. The feed contains no growth hormones, stimulants or antibiotics. Beef is dryaged for 14 to 21 days for flavor. Six and 12 month CSA options. Single order beef packages available. • sagemountainbeef. csaware.com/store TAJ FARMS A CSA/subscription farm in the rural foothills of Valley Center selling pastured turkey, chicken, goat, pork, rabbit and beef. The TAJ team is dedicated to sustainable and responsible agriculture practices and creating safe and healthy food. • (760) 670-7012 • TAJfarms.net

T&H PRIME MEATS AND SAUSAGE Artisan Sausage Meister Jacob Kappeler learned the art of sausage making in Switzerland. His honey cured hams and turkeys received Grand Champion status, and his Polish Kielbasa was judged the best in California 2 years in a row. Their state-of-theart facility can handle year-round custom cut, smoke and wrap service for all wild game and farm-raised animals. Find them at Vista (Sat am) and Del Mar (Sat pm) farmers markets . • 735 E. Mission Rd., San Marcos • (760) 471-9192 • tandhsausage.com

ORGANIZATIONS SD COUNTY FARM BUREAU Established in 1913, the Farm Bureau is the leading advocate for the farm community by promoting the economic viability of agriculture balanced with good stewardship of natural resources. Membership is open to all, helps your local farmers, and has many benefits. • (760) 745-3023 • sdfarmsbureau.org SLOW FOOD Slow Food has been supporting good food in San Diego and Riverside counties since 2001. Be a part of the growing national movement to reclaim and preserve good food and food traditions by participating on a local level. • slowfoodsandiego. org • slowfoodurbansandiego.org • temeculaslowfood.org

PET CARE DEXTER’S DELI Suppliers of all natural diet and supplements for dogs and cats, including fresh raw foods and selected natural dry and canned foods. All are “human-grade” and chemical free and chosen to keep your pet strong and healthy. Two locations, Carlsbad, (760) 720-7507; and Del Mar, (858) 792-3707 • dextersdeli.com

RESTAURANT SUPPLIES SPECIALTY PRODUCE Local, organic and sustainably sourced produce from over a dozen farms each week. We promote freshly picked, organic produce that hasn’t traveled thousand of miles or sat on grocery shelves. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • (619) 295-3172 • specialtyproduce.com SUN GROWN Sungrown cultivates six categories of quality produce: micro-greens, microherbs, sprouts, micro-mixes, edible blossoms and specialty greens and shoots. Also Available through Suzie’s Farms. Call to order • (800) 995-7776 • fax (619) 6621779 • sungrownorganics.com

summer 2012

edible San Diego

SEAFOOD CATALINA OFFSHORE PRODUCTS Wholesale seafood market open to the public, offering fresh sushi grade fish, fresh local fish and shellfish. Featuring cooking demos on Saturdays. 5202 Lovelock Street, San Diego • (619) 2979797 • catalinaop.com PACIFIC SHELLFISH Locally owned and operated for over 30 years. Fish, shrimp and lobster are wild caught unless specified otherwise. Seasonal and subject to availability. 5040 Cass St. Pacific Beach • (858) 272-9940 • fax (858) 272-9615 • thefishery.com/wholesale

SPECIALTY RETAILERS CAXAO Caxao Chocolates uses meticulously chosen fresh, natural ingredients combined with ideas of beauty, poetry, music and emotion to achieve a harmony of flavor in their confections. orders@ caxao.com • (619) 379-2447 • caxao.com CURDS AND WINE Curds and Wine is your source for home winemaking and cheesemaking supplies. Large selection of wine kits and you can make wine at the shop! Good

variety of cheesemaking cultures and equipment available and cheesemaking demonstrations at the shop. 7194 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., San Diego • (858) 384-6566 • curdsandwine.com

Plaza (Thu), La Mesa (Fri), Poway, Vista, Little Italy and Del Mar (Sat), and Hillcrest, La Jolla, Leucadia and Solana Beach (Sun) farmers’ markets, and at Jimbo’s Naturally and Venissimo. • springhillcheese.com

GLUTEN NOT INCLUDED Gluten-free bread, croutons and pizza crust is great for those who live a gluten-free lifestyle, by choice or by necessity. Those with celiac disease must follow a gluten-free diet, and it’s also been shown that eating gluten-free can have a positive effect on allergies and dermatitis. 225 S. Escondido Blvd., Escondido • (760) 432-6100 • gnibakery.com

WINE

PRALINE PATISSERIE Artisan Caramel Sauces made in small batches by an artisan chef from real vanilla beans, organic lavender, real butter, pure cane sugar and real cream, no artificial flavor, color or preservatives, just the best all natural ingredients available. (619) 995-8048 • pralinepatisserie.com SPRING HILL CHEESE Spring Hill’s line of farmstead, artisan cheeses include Quark, Ricotta, Cheddars and Jacks, fresh and specialty cheeses, and goat cheeses. Find them at Coronado (Tue), Palm Desert (Wed), North Park and Horton

CARRUTH CELLARS Carruth Cellars is a boutique urban winery in the heart of the Cedros Design District with a tasting room open to the public five days a week. 320 Cedros Avenue #400, Solana Beach • (858) 8479463 • carruthcellars.com TRIPLE B RANCHES Triple B Ranches is a family business dedicated to producing San Diego’s finest wine grapes and premier estate wines made from those grapes. Grown, aged and bottled entirely within San Diego County, the wines truly demonstrate the unique qualities of our region. • (760) 749-1200 • triplebranches.com VESPER VINEYARDS The goal of Vesper Vineyards is to expose wine drinkers to the diverse micro climates San Diego has to offer in one winery. We not only support local grapes and wine, but all local agriculture and cuisine. • (760) 749-1300 • vespervineyards.com

RADIO KSDS JAZZ 88.3 FM JazzWeek Magazine’s Large Market Station of the Year in 2011, KSDS is a full-time mainstream/traditional Jazz radio station, licensed to the San Diego Community College District, broadcasting 24 hours a day from the campus of San Diego City College. A part of the San Diego City College Foundation, KSDS Jazz88.3 is a nonprofit 501c3 organization. jazz88.org

SOLAR CLARY SOLAR Residential and commercial solar installation and help with government incentives and private financing. Their goal is to make sure you receive the most comprehensive financial solution and the best engineering design and equipment. Free consultation. 2 locations in our region: Sorrento Valley, (888) 662-4743, and Palm Desert, (888) 662-4743, ext. 104. • ClarySolar.com

Loving Local Music and Local Food A Benefit for San Diego’s Jazz 88.3

Sunday, July 1, 2012, 3 pm to 8 pm 3 pm • Music, hors d’oeuvres and silent auction on the rooftop at LOUNGEsix Entertainment provided by Maria de la Paz & Danny Green 5:30 pm • Four-course seated dinner with wine at Jsix Fez Room Entertainment provided by Sarah Maisel & Paul Tillery Supporting fresh, local and seasonal! Tickets $75 Purchase tickets online at www.jazz88.org or by emailing raisinglocalfunds@gmail.com 56

edible San Diego

summer 2012

FARMERS’ MARKETS MONDAY Escondido—Welk Resort 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. off Old Hwy 395 1 – sunset fall/winter 3 – 7 pm spring/summer 760-751-4193

TUESDAY

North San Diego # Sikes Adobe Farmstead 12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido 11 – 2 pm 858-735-5311

Seeds @ City Urban Farm 14th & C Sts. San Diego City College 9:30 – 11:30 am www.Sdcity.edu/SeedsatCity

Ocean Beach 4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–7 pm (summer 4–8 pm) 619-279-0032

University Town Center Genesee Ave. at UTC Westfield Shopping Plaza 3 – 7 pm 619-795-3363

Coronado 1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30 – 6 pm 760-741-3763

San Marcos *# Cal State San Marcos 333 S. Twin Oaks Valley Rd. 1 – sunset, (3 – 7 pm summer) 760-751-4193

Escondido * Grand Ave. btw Juniper & Kalmia 3:30 – 7 pm May to Sept 2:30 – 6 pm Oct to Apr 760-745-8877

Santee *# 10445 Mission Gorge Rd. 3 – 7 pm 619-449-8427

Mira Mesa * Mira Mesa High School 10510 Reagan Rd. 3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm winter) 858-272-7054 Morena District NEW!! 1240 W. Morena Blvd. 3 – 7 pm 619-795-3363 Otay Ranch—Chula Vista 2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd. 4 – 8 pm (4 – 7 pm winter) 619-279-0032 Pacific Beach Bayard & Garnet 2 – 6:30 pm 619-233-3901 UCSD/La Jolla UCSD Campus, Town Square at Gilman/Meyers 10 am –2 pm (Sept. 30 to June) 858-534-4248

WEDNESDAY Carlsbad * Roosevelt St. btw Grand Ave. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 1 – 5 pm 760-687-6453 Encinitas Station NEW!! Corner of E St. & Vulcan 5 – 8 pm, May-Sept 4 – 7 pm, Oct-Apr 858-922-5135 Mission Hills Falcon St. btw West Washington & Ft. Stockton 3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm winter) 619-795-3363

Temecula* 40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9 am – 1 pm 760-728-7343

THURSDAY Chula Vista Center St. off Third Ave. 3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm fall/winter) 619-422-1982 Horton Square San Diego 225 Broadway & Broadway Circle 11 am – 3 pm, March to Nov. 760-741-3763 Linda Vista *# 6900 Linda Vista Rd. btw Comstock & Ulric 2 – 7 pm year round 760-751-4193 North Park CVS Pharmacy 3151 University & 32nd St. 3 – 7 pm year round 619-233-3901 Oceanside Market & Faire * Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9 am –1 pm 619-440-5027 Oceanside Sunset Tremont & Pier View Way 5 – 9 pm (winter 4 – 8 pm) 760-754-4512 Pacific Highlands NEW!! 5951 Village Center Loop Rd. Canyon Crest Academy 3 – 7 pm 858-272-7054 SDSU Campanile Walkway btw Hepner Hall & Love Library 10 am – 3 pm www.clube3.org

FRIDAY Borrego Springs Christmas Circle Comm. Park 7 am – noon, November–June 760-767-5555 Fallbrook 102 S. Main, at Alvarado 10 am – 2 pm 760-390-9726 Imperial Beach * Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza Oct-Mar, 2 – 6 pm, Apr-Sep, 2 – 7:30 pm 619-397-1917 Kearny Mesa North Island Credit Union pkg lot 5898 Copley 10:30 am – 1:30 pm 858-272-7054 La Mesa Village * Corner of Spring St. & University 2 – 6 pm NEW Hours! 619-440-5027 Rancho Bernardo Bernardo Winery parking lot 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9 am – noon 760-500-1709 Southeast San Diego 4981 Market St. (west of Euclid Ave. Trolley stop) 2 – 6 pm 619-262-2022

SATURDAY Carlsbad * Roosevelt St. btw Grand Ave. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 1 – 5 pm 760-687-6453 City Heights *!# On Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd St. 9 am – 1 pm 760-751-4193 Del Mar 1050 Camino Del Mar 1 – 4 pm 760-586-0373

Golden Hill B St. btw 27th & 28th Sts. 9:30 am – 1:30 pm 619-795-3363 Little Italy Mercato Date St. (Kettner to Union) 9 am – 1:30 pm 619-233-3769 Pacific Beach 4150 Mission Blvd. 8 am – noon 760-741-3763 Poway * Old Poway Park 14134 Midland Rd. at Temple 8 – 11:30 am 619-440-5027 Ramona * 1855 Main St. (K-Mart pkg lot) 9 am–1 pm 760-788-1924 Rancho San Diego NEW! 900 Rancho San Diego Pkwy. Cuyamaca College 9 am – 2 pm 619-921-9450 Scripps Ranch 10380 Spring Canyon Rd. & Scripps Poway Parkway 9 am – 1 pm 858-586-7933 Temecula * Old Town Temecula Sixth & Front St. 8 am – 12:30 pm 760-728-7343 Vista * County Courthouse 325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 78 8 am – noon 760-945-7425

SUNDAY Gaslamp San Diego 400 block of Third Ave. 9 am – 1 pm 619-279-0032 Hillcrest DMV parking lot 3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9 am – 2 pm 619-237-1632 Julian Wynola Farms Marketplace 4470 Hwy 78, 3 mi. west of Julian 11 am – 4 pm 760-885-8364

spring 2012

La Jolla Open Aire La Jolla Elem. School Girard Ave. & Genter 9 am – 1 pm 760-525-5947 Leucadia * Paul Ecke Central Elem. School 185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10 am – 2 pm 858-272-7054 Murrieta * Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/ Kalmia 9 am – 1 pm 760-728-7343 North San Diego # Sikes Adobe Farmstead 12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido 10 – 3 pm (11 – 4 pm summer) 858-735-5311 Point Loma # Corner of Cañon & Rosecrans 9:30 am – 2:30 pm 619-795-3363 Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village 16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9 am – 1:30 pm 10 am – 2 pm fall/winter 858-922-5135 San Marcos *# NEW DAY!! Cal State San Marcos 333 S. Twin Oaks Valley Rd. 10 am – 2 pm 760-751-4193 Solana Beach 410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. 1 – 5 pm 858-755-0444 *M arket vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks) # Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer) ! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks. All San Diego County markets listed except SDSU and Seeds @ City are certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites.

edible San Diego

San Diego Sessions

Voted Jazz Station of the Year by JazzWeek Magazine

Showcasing San Diego’s local jazz. Sponsored by Edible San Diego. Hosted by San Diego UT’s

George Varga

Sundays 5-6 p.m.

A delicious way to support Jazz 88.3! Sign up for “Loving Local Music & Local Food”, a July 1 fundraiser at Solamar featuring dinner by Jsix. For more information or to purchase tickets, visit jazz88.org

A COMMUNITY SERVICE OF