Edible San Diego Cultivating Plenty Issue 48 Jul–Aug 2018

Cultivating Plenty

Member of Edible Communities

Oh, what a beautiful morning! We were just on a photo shoot for the cover, tucked high up in the hills between Escondido and Valley Center. Much laughter filled the avocado grove, where a group of farmers who happen to be women had answered our call.

Our issue theme is Cultivating Plenty—celebrating the height of the summer season, all the productive farmland in San Diego County, and the people who tend the earth and bring forth food to sustain us. We wanted to put a new face on the idea, and we hope you love the cover as much as we do.

And just so you know, the women on this cover are getting a story all their own that we’re posting exclusively on our website. We invite you to visit us online and peruse a collection of stories and handy information that we update daily. The site also works great on your phone!

That expression about a picture being worth a thousand words would have to start with these words: grit, vision, energy, connectivity, and hard work. Because if you’ve ever tried it, you know that growing food takes all this and more. Each and every one of us relies on people who make food their business, and the context for their livelihood—and our food supply—is changing like never before.

How are you connected with abundance in San Diego County? Talk with a local farmer and buy some of their produce as often as you can it’s that simple! Secondly, ask about sourcing when you eat out. Speaking up is as important as what you spend. Lastly, if relatives or friends share home-grown food, try preparing a simple summer meal with those free zucchini or cherry tomatoes. The flavors will amaze you!

Speaking of action, if you love Edible San Diego, please consider patronizing the companies that advertise with us, and tell them Edible sent you! We print and distribute 30,000+ magazines every two months, run a successful digital program, and partner with a growing number of organizations around the county. Ad dollars are what make the wheels go round.

Here at Edible San Diego, it’s like a year-round party we keep inviting you to. Join in the authentic pleasures that our beautiful region has to offer: fresh, local, seasonal produce, original artisan food and beverages, landscapes, seascapes, and talented entrepreneurs who are working their hearts out to dazzle us with their innovation and bounty.

We thank them, and we thank you.

Katie Stokes

Publisher, Edible San Diego

edible Communities

2011 James Beard Foundation

Publication of the Year

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

CONTRIBUTORS

Puja Batra

Jackie Bryant

Stephanie Cameron

Riley Davenport Ben Eisendrath

Grillworks

Joni Hargrave

Olivia Hayo Maria Hesse

Jim Kempton Eric Larson Seth Matlick

PUBLISHER

Katie Stokes

EDITORS

Katie Stokes

Executive Editor

Maria Hesse

Managing Editor

Eric Larson

Guest Editor

Felicia Campbell

Executive Digital Editor

Dawn Mobley

Copy Editor

DESIGNER

Riley Davenport

STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS

Debbie Cole MARKETING

Cass Husted SALES REP John Vawter

CONTACT

Edible San Diego P.O. Box 83549 San Diego, CA 92138 619-756-7292 info@ediblesandiego.com ediblesandiego.com

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For information about rates and deadlines, contact info@ediblesandiego.com 619-756-7292

No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2018 All rights reserved.

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere apologies. Thank you.

Photo by Olivia Hayo

Eric Larson has spent his entire career working in local agriculture, including 34 years at the helm of nonprofit organizations that assist local farmers. Larson began working in San Diego County’s agricultural industry in 1971, and has been the executive director of the San Diego County Farm Bureau and administrator of the San Diego Regional Irrigated Lands Group since 1997 and 2008, respectively. Larson is also a founding member of the San Diego Food System Alliance and chairs one of its working groups.

Agriculture has been his passion since his youthful membership in 4-H and Future Farmers of America, followed by horticultural degrees from MiraCosta

College and Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo. Before joining the Farm Bureau, Larson was the general manager of an agriculture cooperative for 13 years. He also did production work in the cut-flowers and indoor potted plant industry prior to that.

In addition to his work in agriculture, he served two terms as a member of the Carlsbad City Council and is a past director of the Carlsbad Municipal Water District, the San Diego County Water Authority, and the Encina Wastewater Authority. He also served as chair of the committee to re-write the City of Carlsbad’s General Plan.

Larson and his wife Jennifer live in Carlsbad and have two grown sons and two grandchildren.

San Diego County Farm Bureau

420 South Broadway, Suite 200 Escondido, CA 92025 760-745-3023 eric@sdfarmbureau.org

Guest Editor: Eric Larson

Delicious dishes you can only find in San Diego

The Dish: Prosciutto Toast

Chef: Christopher Osborne

Restaurant: BIGA

Details: Housemade levain, whipped burrata, farmers’ pickled vegetables, shaved 18-month prosciutto, and scallion

Why It’s Good: Bruschetta is typically made by grilling sliced bread, rubbing it with garlic, and adding a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. From there you can add a variety of toppings, traditionally tomatoes and basil. For this version,

The Cake: Pavona Pistachio

Pastry Chef/Owner: Christina Sanini

Bakery: Pavona Dolci

Locations: Kettle & Stone, Mission Hills; Better Buzz, Hillcrest; Meraki Cafe, University Heights; Grants Marketplace, South Park; Achilles Coffee Roasters, Downtown; Cafe Mingei, Balboa Park; Royal Food Mart, Hillcrest/Bankers Hill; The Living Room, Point Loma (locations subject to change)

Details: Pavona pistachio gluten-free cakes can be found at nine coffee shops and one market in the city.

Why It’s Good: If you close your eyes and take a small bite of this divine pistachio

putting whipped burrata on a slice of BIGA’s house-baked levain would have been enough to win our hearts, but it’s the pickled vegetables from local Kawano, Valdivia, and Maciel farms that really steal the show.

While you can have bruschetta all over the world, we are pretty sure that this antipasti might be the only one made with a loaf of bread that came from a 200-year-old biga, or starter dough, imported from Italy by owner Tae Dickey, complete with decadent piles of freshly shaved prosciutto and vegetables grown in the San Diego County sun.

Like everything at BIGA, this toast tastes as beautiful as it looks. Reservations recommended.

bigasandiego.com

chocolate sea salt, and seasonal flavors like almond lemon and almond chai. Sanini’s mastered cake recipes were inspired by a trip she took to Italy, which led to baking and making her first delivery to Kettle & Stone in 2014. Since then, deliveries have grown to four days a week with plans to expand offerings to include breads and doughnuts in the fall.

cake, you might feel like you’ve somehow been transported back in time to take part in afternoon tea at Downton Abbey. When you open your eyes, you’ll be grateful there are other Pavona cake flavors to try.

Sanini bakes her coffee-house treats in a dedicated gluten-free kitchen. Other flavors include almond, almond dark

LIQUID ASSETS

Drink: The Thief

Brewery: Societe Brewing Company

Why It’s Good: This San Diego barrel-aged ale won a gold medal in the Mixed Culture Brett Beer category at the 2018 World Beer Cup in Nashville this past May. The category ranks beers that demonstrate flawless execution in not only brewing, but the barrel-aging process as well. Technique aside, it’s the unique source of Grenache Blanc grapes and the example of community that sets The Thief apart from other local brews. Societe’s brewing team takes an annual grape expedition to Escondido’s Vesper

The pistachio cakes are nicely balanced and not too sweet, with a pure pistachio flavor and light texture. The butteriness is worthy of its own sentence to praise its merits. And all that gets topped with frosting and chopped California pistachios. Pairing well with coffee or tea, these little cakes are, in a word, transcendent.

pavonadolci.com

Vineyards to hand-process the grapes before bringing them back to the brewery to make the magic of fermentation and red wine barrel aging happen.

Societe describes The Thief as “a golden-hued, exquisitely balanced 6.3% alcohol-by-volume ‘Feral’ (barrel-aged, wild, sour) ale, featuring myriad bright, earthy, spicy, white-wine flavors.”

The 2017 vintage is only available in 500-milliliter bottles at the Societe Brewing tasting room, while supplies last. societebrewing.com

Photo courtesy of BIGA

Photo courtesy of Pavona Dolci

Photo courtesy of Societe Brewing

LET’S GROW

Cape Gooseberries

Physalis peruviana is also commonly known as the Peruvian ground cherry, husk cherry, and cape gooseberry. The plant is native to Brazil, but in recent years it has proven to grow well around the world in temperate and tropical regions just like San Diego. After your first cape gooseberry encounter, you’ll understand why we think this plant should be in everyone’s yard.

A member of the genus physalis, cape gooseberries are closely related to the tomatillo and grow in quite the similar and beautiful fashion. The berry grows inside a thin husk that develops after the plant has lost its flower, and the and the small berry has a golden, waxy skin and is full of tiny seeds. A ripe cape gooseberry is juicy, sweet, and tropical in flavor, almost like a pineapple met a pear, banana, and lemon; the underripe flavor remains tropical but tart with a

EDIBLE BOOKSHELF

greater presence of citrus. If you’re growing your own, you’ll enjoy waiting for them to hit peak ripeness and eating them straight off the plant while they are still warm from the sun.

According to the California Rare Fruit Growers, the plant tends to thrive on neglect, and prefers loamy or sandy soils and sun. Generally an annual in frost-prone regions, cape gooseberries grow well as a hearty perennial in mediterranean climates such as ours. But be aware that they have become invasive in some regions where the plants have preferred conditions.

As an added bonus, cape gooseberries have proven to perform well as a nitrogen fixer in the yard, responding with increased yields when nitrogen levels are high in the soil.

Kiss the Ground: How the Food You Eat Can Reverse Climate Change, Heal Your Body & Ultimately Save the World

You might think that the word regenerative is a buzz term suddenly overpopularized in the mainstream to build on the intentions behind a tired sustainability movement, but Kiss the Ground (First Enliven Books/Atria Books, 2017) by Josh Tickell dares to prove otherwise. More than just a book, 50% of sales go to support the Kiss the Ground movement, a nonprofit that inspired the book and upcoming documentary, offering educational resources, media, and support for community gardens near the Venice, CA, office. A new initiative in the works for the nonprofit would help provide financial assistance to farmers with a carbon farm plan.

Kiss the Ground begins with an introduction to the global agricultural initiative “4 per 1000,” which contends “our capacity to feed 9.8 billion people in 2050 in a context of

climate change will depend in particular on our ability to keep our soils alive.” (4per1000.org) Through practices that promote soil health come solutions that could potentially reverse desertification and climate change. As if that wasn’t inspiring enough, Tickell also looks at the benefits of eating a regenerative diet.

Critics might suggest that it all sounds too good to be true, but if you’re like us, you’re willing to bet that restorative agroforestry, land management, and agricultural practices just might save the world—making Kiss the Ground well worth the read.

Inspired Recipes From Surfing Around the World

By Jim Kempton

As a Southern California surfer, I’ve spent my life traveling and surfing the world, along the way learning to cook the world’s best beach-loving dishes. First We Surf, Then We Eat (Consortium Sept. 2018) will share these vividly colorful, richly flavorful, and vibrantly healthful collection of recipes that have been gathered along the way.

You’ll enjoy the recipes and images of surf and food as well as stories of the best waves, markets, restaurants, adventures, and misadventures—from Tahiti to Hawaii, the Basque Country to Indonesia, California to Mexico, Peru to Morocco, and beyond. Here, you get a preview of these surf-inspired recipes in the nick of time for summer.

First We Surf, Then We Eat is currently available for pre-order on amazon.com through publication date Sept. 4, 2018.

WISCONSIN STREET, OCEANSIDE

A Tiny Little Barbecue for 200 Surf legend Donald Takayama, who passed away in 2012, was one of the premier board builders of the last half-century. He probably gave away more surfboards to his cadre of proteges, team riders, and friends than anyone in the business. A born entrepreneur, he was a top contest winner from the age of six, ran a retail shop, and even produced Surfer’s Choice, a line of his own teriyaki sauce. Donald’s talent as a chef was also legendary. In his big backyard in Oceanside, he’d hold barbecues for hundreds. Included here is the secret recipe for his award-winning teriyaki sauce that was once sold in major supermarkets. It’s an old family recipe that can’t be beat.

Foiled Again

Grilled Fish & Vegetable Packet with Donald Takayama’s Teriyaki Sauce

Joel Tudor is perhaps the most elegant and influential longboard stylist of the last two decades. A protege of Donald Takayama, Joel has carried on Donald’s generosity, graciousness, and love of life.

This dish has always been a favorite of his and was a staple at Donald’s barbecues on Tremont Street in Oceanside. The genius of wrapping the ingredients in foil makes cooking for 200 so much less work—and works just as well for a more intimate dinner.

Serves 4

1 cup quartered cherry or grape tomatoes

1 cup diced yellow summer squash

1 cup thinly sliced red onion

¼ cup pitted and coarsely chopped Kalamata olives

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

1 teaspoon capers, rinsed

1 ½ pounds mild white fish, cut into 4 equal portions

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 teaspoons slivered fresh garlic

4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

Jim Kempton is a lifelong surfer, cook, and writer. He’s been the editor and publisher of Surfer magazine; the director of Quiksilver’s Crossing Project, a boat that searched the world for the best surf breaks; the director of media for Billabong; and owner of the former Margarita’s Village, an award-winning regional Mexican restaurant in San Clemente, California. The San Clemente resident currently serves as the president of the California Surf Museum.

2 tablespoons (more to taste) Donald Takayama’s Teriyaki Sauce (recipe follows)

Light a charcoal grill and bring to medium heat or preheat a gas grill to 350°F.

In a large bowl, combine tomatoes, squash, onion, olives, lemon juice, oregano, and capers.

Set aside.

bottom

Gado Gado

Blanched Vegetables in Peanut Sauce

If this Sumatran salad potpourri sounds odd to your Western palate, don’t be put off.

Serves 6

Peanut Sauce

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 small sweet Maui onion, slivered

2 cloves garlic, slivered

1 large chile pepper, minced

1 teaspoon Indonesian shrimp paste

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

12 ounces crunchy peanut butter

¼ cup palm or dark brown sugar

¼ cup unsweetened coconut milk

½ cup water

Salad

6 tablespoons peanut oil, for frying

1 pound medium Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch slices

1 pound green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces

2 carrots, julienned (about 1 cup)

¼ head green cabbage, cored and cut into 2-inch pieces

2 cups bean sprouts

3 cups spinach, trimmed and washed

Small bunch watercress, trimmed and washed, chilled until ready for plating

FOILED AGAIN continued

To make a packet, lay out a 20-inch sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil and coat top of foil with cooking spray. Place one portion of fish in center of foil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Top each portion of fish with about ¾ cup of vegetable mixture and ½ teaspoon garlic. Drizzle each with 1 teaspoon olive oil and 1 teaspoon teriyaki sauce. Fold foil over, leaving room for steam to gather, and pinch seams to seal tightly. Repeat process with 3 remaining packets.

1 cucumber, sliced diagonally ⅛ inch thick

15 Indonesian shrimp chips

3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and halved

First, make the peanut sauce: Heat oil in a 12-inch nonstick wok or skillet over medium heat. Stir-fry onion until soft, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and chile, and gently fry for about 1 minute; remove and set aside.

Add shrimp paste to wok and fry, crushing it with the back of a spoon. Pour in soy sauce and lemon juice and stir to combine. Remove from heat and spoon in peanut butter. Stir until well blended. Let cool and transfer mixture to food processor. Add sugar and garlic-chile mixture and puree into a paste.

Transfer paste back to wok and add coconut milk. Simmer over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture begins to separate, about 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in water

Grill packets until fish is cooked through and vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from grill and carefully open both ends of packets. Allow steam to escape, and use a spatula to slide contents onto plates. If you’re camping or beachside, eat directly out of packet.

Donald Takayama’s Teriyaki Sauce

1 ¼ cup water, divided 5 tablespoons brown sugar

1 clove garlic, minced

Pinch of onion powder

and simmer until sauce is thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside while you cook vegetables.

Prepare the vegetables: Heat 6 tablespoons peanut oil in a 6-quart saucepan until very hot; when oil begins to pop, spoon in potatoes. Fry potatoes until golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to colander to drain.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add green beans and carrots. Blanch for 2 minutes, then add cabbage and cook for another minute. Add bean sprouts and spinach, and blanch for a second or two. Drain vegetables in a colander.

Arrange a layer of chilled watercress in a large salad bowl. Add potatoes and vegetables. Top with cucumber, fried shrimp chips, and eggs. Pour sauce over all and serve.

¼ cup pineapple juice

½ teaspoon ground ginger

2 tablespoons cornstarch

Combine water, brown sugar, garlic, and onion powder in a small saucepan and cook over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Add pineapple juice and ground ginger and simmer for 10 minutes.

In a small bowl, mix cornstarch with ¼ cup cold water. Stir into saucepan and continue to simmer until sauce reaches your desired thickness. Add a bit more water if sauce gets too thick for your liking.

Tasty Pickles in a Flash

Quick Refrigerator Radish Pickles

Recipe by Seth Matlick

Makes

1 quart jar

With their great crunchy texture and spicy flavor, radishes make amazing pickles. Feel free to be creative when making pickles, and use what’s in season. Some combinations that I love are thinly sliced radish pickles with cider vinegar, coriander, cumin, chile, and fenugreek. Another option is quartered radish pickles with white vinegar, garlic, and white peppercorns. Try matchstick purple daikon pickles with rice wine vinegar, fresh ginger, cayenne, and star anise.

1 bunch radishes or 1 large daikon radish, tops removed and washed

1 cup water

1 cup vinegar (white, cider, and rice wine all work well)

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon salt

Spices, herbs, and seasonings to taste

Bring water and vinegar to a boil. Add salt and sugar and whisk to dissolve. Add spices and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. While the brine is cooling, slice, chop, or matchstick radishes to your liking. Pack radishes in a 16-ounce glass jar, leaving 1 inch of headroom at the top of the jar. Pour brine over radishes and refrigerate several hours to overnight. Flavor will intensify over time.

This recipe was originally published in Edible Santa Fe.

Photo by Stephanie Cameron

Temper, Temper!

Pregrill temperature is key to better steaks

By Ben Eisendrath

Picture, if you will, in your carnivore’s eye, the last steak that made you question whether you’d ever really had a steak before. Sizzling before you, bearing the brand of the fire. Ringed with burntamber fat. Not fork-tender but firm, demanding the knife. Your first cut parts an artful spectrum of caramel to pink, assuring that each bite will deliver the holy trinity of crust, jus, and seasoning. You remember pausing for a moment to drink it all in. And so it was—your perfect steak.

The steps to such perfection are several: careful sourcing, mastery of fire, meticulous seasoning. Just as important to delivering an immortal steak is a primary step oft forgotten by home chefs, one that can make a world of difference in the result. This step is called tempering. “Tempering is the most important thing we do to meat, period,” says chef Rubén

García, culinary creative director for the José Andrés restaurants. A large part of the live-fire training of José Andrés cooks doesn’t take place over the grill, but rather in a holding area where the cooks continuously monitor steaks that are on deck, making sure the meat’s internal temperature rises to exactly 95° before a turn on the heat.

“In Spain we cook large cuts of meat, often two inches or more thick,” stresses chef García, “Tempering both loosens the muscle and gets the whole cut to the same temperature before cooking begins. That way we get the perfect sear, tenderness, and even pinkness through to the center.”

Warm tempering is ideal between 75 and 95° Fahrenheit. If your kitchen’s ambient temperature rests much lower than that, there are plenty of ways to cheat centers to the right range. My preference is to heat an oven

to 150°, turn it off, then leave the defrosted steaks in there for about 30 minutes. Another option is a zip-top or vacuum-sealed dunk in hot water (don’t directly soak the meat or you’ll damage the texture). And don’t use a microwave—strange things happen in there. When you’re done, use a meat thermometer to see if you’ve arrived—or if, like me, you’re a “by feel” person, pick up the steak by one end. If it elongates easily and readily, you’re good to go.

Even if you’re an advanced griller and already in the habit of starting with roomtemperature meat, try a little warmer, say 80–90°. Steaks will finish faster, more predictably, and, as a bonus, their relaxed texture will accept pregrill seasonings readily. Don’t let a handful of degrees keep you from your perfect steak. D

Photo courtesy of Grillworks

Sherman Elementary’s Urban Oasis

By Joni Hargrave

Firmly planted in San Diego’s Sherman Heights community, among a concrete jungle of hardship, homelessness, and trash-lined streets, an urban oasis is brimming with life, where butterflies dance and nature paints in beds of blooms, where kids can play and learn where the wild things grow. This is the Sherman Elementary School garden. It was by chance that Christina Abuelo, a Rhode Island native, found herself an academic home with her three boys in one of San Diego’s underprivileged elementary schools. Here she launched the unprecedented beginnings of a food movement that would change the trajectory of outdoor education and the lives of hundreds of children at Sherman Elementary.

After a couple conversations and a visit to the school, it became clear to me that the eight-years-strong garden with 15 raised beds, three composting stations, garden-based cooking workshops, annual spring garden festivals, and a teaching platform for the city’s top nature educators existed not by chance.

Abuelo planted a seed that blossomed into a garden-based education sanctuary that rivals some of the city’s best garden programs.

“We literally hand-watered our budding oasis one donated garden bed at a time,” Abuelo shared. “What started from a single bed in 2010 grew to a magnificent oasis built by generations of students.” But all programs come with a cost. Where most schools use grants and curriculum budgets to support garden programs, Sherman Elementary, with a student body comprised of over

90% socioeconomically disadvantaged students, relies entirely on donations, parents, community volunteers, and Abuelo’s relentless efforts to keep the garden overflowing with real-world learning opportunities.

Soil testing, vermiculture, mulching, and composting are just a taste of the horticultural activities at Sherman’s ever-growing garden club. The vibrant outdoor learning center provides a rotating curriculum of gardening, naturebased art, cooking, and environmental science, with guest educators ranging from beekeepers and mushroom growers to chefs and certified nutritionists. Even beyond the garden Abuelo takes what she likes to call a guerrilla-like approach to education with spontaneous pop-ins to classrooms whenever nature has a lesson to share. During my visit, Abuelo explained the life cycle of four adorable self-incubated chicks that hatched just the day before. And let me tell you, the crowd of second graders went wild!

Through Abuelo’s passionate persistence for change, and a heart of solid gold, the Sherman Elementary School garden serves not only as a vehicle for outdoor education, but truly as an urban oasis that continues to create happy, healthy, nature-connected kids year after year. D

Joni Hargrave is a Leucadia-based

THE IMPORTANCE OF Farming Carbon

By Puja Batra

Carbon is getting a bad rap these days as the main pollutant responsible for climate change. On the other hand, carbon is, quite literally, the stuff that life is made of. All living things—plants, animals, bacteria, and all other life forms—are built out of carbon. Considering this basic fact offers a window into how we might harness the elegance of biology to slow down and even possibly reverse climate change. We’ll return to this later, after a short exploration of how climate change might be affecting nutrition in the food we eat.

Everything Starts With Photosynthesis

First, a crash course on the basics of plant biology that are key to understanding

how plants might be affected by climate change, and also how they might help us solve it. Plants take in carbon dioxide gas (CO2) from the atmosphere, and use water and sunlight in a chemical process called photosynthesis to convert that CO2 into carbohydrates. These carbohydrates are of two types: structural, that is, the fiber that makes up the leaves, stems, roots, fruits, seeds, and other parts; and non-structural, sugars and starches contained in those tissues, which is where much of the caloric content comes from.

Healthy Food Depends on Healthy Soil

Plants contain more than just carbs, though, so while the carbohydrate building block comes from CO2 in the air, other elements like nitrogen (the main

Over time, our conventional agricultural practices, such as frequent soil tilling, excessive grazing, and heavy reliance on agrochemicals, including synthetic fertilizer, have depleted agricultural soils of the carbon-rich organic layer and the diverse life forms in them.

ingredient in protein), phosphorus, calcium, iron, zinc, and many others originate in the soil. This means that the nutrients we get from plants come to us from the earth beneath our feet.

Soils rich in nutrients produce more nutritious plants, and depleted soils produce less nutritious plants. According to Dr. Ratan Lal, director of the Carbon Management and Sequestration Center at Ohio State University, not only do healthy soils produce higher crop yields, they also produce healthier foods. We obtain 24 essential elements exclusively through plants, which obtain them from the soil.

Over time, our conventional agricultural practices such as frequent soil tilling, excessive grazing, and heavy reliance on agrochemicals, including synthetic fertilizer, have depleted agricultural soils of the carbon-rich organic layer and the diverse life forms in them. In fact, conservative estimates are that global agricultural lands lose a total of 75 billion tons of fertile soil every year. In addition to eroding soils and the nutrients they contain, we now know that our current agricultural practices are responsible for around 20% of global greenhouse gas emissions causing climate change.

fertilization effect.” It turns out that the added carbs are actually the nonstructural kind. That is, under conditions of elevated CO2, plants add more starch and sugar to their tissues than they do under current CO2 conditions, in some cases up to 45% higher.

If starches and sugars are more abundant in plants grown in higher CO2 conditions, how might nutrients, which originate in the soil, be affected? Are they able to keep up with the added carbohydrate production by plants?

levels of sugars and starch, a foreboding phenomenon that has been described elsewhere as “growing junk food.”

If we work with tried and tested practices and the biodiversity of the soil, getting that carbon out of the atmosphere and into the soil can make combating climate change a life-affirming call to action.

Climate Change Is Altering Plant Nutrition

For several decades we have known that CO2 in the atmosphere is increasing due to human activity. Scientists working in agriculture and other plant science fields have found, in study after study, that plants actually photosynthesize faster and produce more carbohydrates in conditions of elevated CO2. This is sometimes referred to as the “CO2

Scientist Irakli Loladze, a mathematician with a keen interest in plants and climate change, set about asking these questions. He conducted a giant meta-analysis of almost 8,000 scientific observations on the levels of various soil-based elements in plants that had been grown under conditions of experimentally elevated levels of CO2. Loladze’s expertise in mathematics allowed him to correct for the differences in sample size and other factors that varied between studies. Sure enough, when he controlled the statistical noise, he found a signal: Nitrogen, iron, zinc, calcium, and several other important nutrients all dropped in concentration—on average by 8%—as the levels of starches and sugars rose. In other words, Loladze found that regardless of plant type, geographic region, or which nutritional element he looked at, levels of important nutrients are not keeping pace with increasing

Those are findings from experiments in which future conditions were simulated, but what about the more recent past? As CO2 levels have risen over the last two centuries, have plants already undergone a similar shift? Scientists analyzing archived plant collections have found that in both crops and wild plants, mineral levels have indeed been decreasing. Some scientists attribute the change in crops to changes in selectively bred traits, but the parallel change in wild plants has led Loladze to speculate that elevated CO2 may be the more important agent of change. Nutritionists speculate about the effects additional sugar and reduced protein could have, for example, on diabetes and obesity rates, but they caution that the research simply isn’t there yet to know exactly what the effects could be. The findings could certainly help target important traits to select for in future crop breeding and selection.

Summing up all of the above paints a discouraging picture. Our current practices of food production lead to soil degradation, which means we produce less food per unit of land area, with fewer nutrients. We usually attempt to solve this by clearing more land, tilling more soil, and using more fertilizers—further degrading the soil and contributing onefifth of all greenhouse gases emitted by human activities. This exacerbates climate change, which we have learned is shifting our crops toward higher sugars and lower nutrients, thus exacerbating food insecurity. And so on and so forth—a sobering set of runaway challenges.

Turning the Problem into the

Solution

Despite this grim outlook, there actually exists a simple solution: rebuilding soil carbon through a set of practices known as carbon farming. By partnering with plants, bacteria, and fungi (and earthworms and numerous other soil dwellers), we can actually convert some of the excess CO2 that’s in our atmosphere to rebuild the amount of organic material in the soil, over half of which we have lost. Carbon in our soils helps conserve and retain water and rebuild soil fertility. Over time, when paired with the right practices, the soils actually sequester that carbon deep underground, locking it up in substances such as soil humus, where it can stay for hundreds and even thousands of years.

Carbon farming practices include practices familiar to permaculture, organic agriculture, and regenerative farming. They include compost application, riparian restoration, agroforestry, cover cropping, no-till farming, and several other methods that increase organic soil matter. This additional organic matter can increase the productivity of croplands as it also restores the availability of nutrients so dramatically depleted over the last century from our conventional agriculture practices. By increasing the water-holding capacity of the soil, carbon farming will help us adapt to drought, changing precipitation patterns, and other climate challenges ahead.

Once soil carbon buildup starts, if the practices are maintained, the process of

carbon sequestration continues for several decades. Expert contributors to the book Drawdown maintain that if we commit to investing in building soil carbon on a large scale while also decreasing our energy, transportation, and other emissions, we can actually begin to draw down atmospheric greenhouse gases and reverse climate change through the same practices that help us attain global food security.

biodiversity of the soil, getting that carbon out of the atmosphere and into the soil can make combating climate change a lifeaffirming call to action.

It may turn out that rebuilding soil fertility might not impact the relative amounts of nutrients and carbs in plants growing under higher CO2 levels, and the effect that Loladze found will continue as long as we have elevated levels of CO2. We have yet to learn enough about this topic to theorize, but enhanced soil fertility will at least ensure the availability of key nutritional elements in the soils, and most importantly, rebuilding the soils could finally shift our atmosphere back to one in which elevated CO2 is a thing of the past.

Sometimes the fight against climate change seems like a bitter pill that we must swallow sooner or later. But if we work with tried and tested practices and the

Here in San Diego County, several organizations are working to build policy and programs that bring climate action together with carbon farming incentives that support agricultural livelihoods. For more information on how carbon farming can help our county’s climate mitigation targets, climate resilience efforts, and agricultural economy, you can download the technical report, Linking ClimateFriendly Farming Practices to San Diego County’s Climate Action Plan: An Opportunity Analysis of Carbon Farming in the Unincorporated County, or the summarized version, Building a Climate Friendly San Diego From the Ground Up, from the San Diego County Farm Bureau or San Diego Food System Alliance websites. D sdfarmbureau.org sdfsa.org

Puja Batra, Ph.D., of Batra Ecological Strategies seeks to align ecological sustainability with socio-economic needs, working at the intersection of science, policy, economics, and communications. She has worked globally on diverse approaches to ecological sustainability, such as biodiversity conservation-focused microenterprise,groundwater scarcity and management in remote rural communities, and urban ecological design in Asia. She is currently focusing on developing mutually beneficial solutions that support San Diego’s agricultural economy while combating climate change.

Here in San Diego County, several organizations are working to build policy and programs that bring climate action together with carbon farming incentives that support agricultural livelihoods.

Challenges and Solutions in San Diego Farming

By Eric Larson

San Diego has a history of farming dating back to the establishment of the San Diego and San Luis Rey Missions in the later half of the 18th century. Dominated in the early days by dryland farming and limited irrigation near the few local sources of water, farming has evolved into a vibrant $1.8 billion industry led by nursery and floral crops, tree fruit, cut flowers, eggs, and a variety of vegetables. That figure places San Diego County in the top 20 counties in the nation for agricultural value. Today’s local farmers are focused on water-use efficiency, crop selection, and maximizing production.

While farming has been described as a lifestyle as well as an avocation, a fact that can’t be escaped is that farming is a business and farmers must have a reasonable expectation of turning a profit. Meeting that expectation drives farmers to be creative and innovative. But that’s not new. Creativity and innovation have always been hallmarks of farming. Despite farmers’ effective skills, there are three major challenges that touch all farmers and can’t be resolved without assistance from the nonfarming community: the price of water, reliable labor, and introduced insect and pest species.

Water

On the subject of water, it has to be recognized that the region’s water supply has been made more reliable by the San Diego County Water Authority’s actions over the past three decades to diversify its sources of imported and locally generated water. This has proven to be beneficial to the region, but new water sources are expensive. Additionally, the cost of maintaining existing infrastructure continues to rise. While the incremental cost increase to homeowners has not been a significant burden, water is the single largest monthly expense for many farmers. With the price of water tripling over the past 12 years and the price of farm products remaining virtually static, farmers are squeezed. To remain in the game, farmers have to find ways to minimize water use while increasing returns.

There are three major challenges that touch all farmers and can’t be resolved without assistance from the nonfarmi ng community: the price of water, reliable labor, and introduc ed insect and pest species.

For some farmers, the answer is planting more fruit trees per acre to increase production. Other farmers are growing less water-hungry crops like wine grapes, olives, and dragon fruit. With few exceptions, farmers have made large investments in efficient irrigation systems and many are turning to new technologies that can assess the water needs of their crops and drive the irrigation systems accordingly. Recycled water can provide farmers with an affordable and drought-proof supply where water treatment plants are not too distant from farms. There are currently farmers irrigating with recycled water in Fallbrook. The City of Escondido has launched a project to deliver recycled water to farmers east of the city, while the City of Oceanside is considering sending recycled water to farmers in the Morro Hills area.

Labor

Meeting labor needs is proving to be increasingly challenging for San Diego County farmers, as well as for farmers across the state and nation. Politics aside, the reality is that the majority of farm work done in this country is performed by foreignborn workers. Another reality is that in the absence of a meaningful guest worker program, farm labor needs are largely met by willing workers who present improper or forged documents to employers. Agricultural employers are not allowed to challenge those documents if they appear valid, and the net result is a labor force that could be subject to immigration enforcement. In addition to the issue of documentation, there is a significant shortage of agricultural labor because immigration reform that would allow guest workers to enter the country has been stalled in Congress for decades.

Farmers and farmworkers would like to see federal reform that addresses two concerns. First, the skilled workforce that is currently here and serving as the backbone of daily farm operations could and should be given an opportunity for adjusted work status. This could be done by showing a history of agricultural employment, a clean criminal record, a commitment to remain in farming, and perhaps a reasonable monetary fee. Second, provisions should be made for a guest worker program that would allow seasonal workers to move easily across the border to meet the fluctuating demands that come with cycles of planting, cultivation, and harvesting. This would include a requirement to return home when the work is completed. In the absence of reforms to shore up the agricultural workforce, San Diego farmers may be forced to reduce planted acres and will miss the best market windows if crops cannot be harvested in a timely manner.

In the absence of reforms to shore up the agricultural workforce, San Diego farmers may be forced to reduce planted acres and will miss the best market windows if crops cannot be harvested in a timely manner.

Insects and Pests

Just as residents enjoy San Diego’s yearround temperate climate, insects and pests thrive here and can reproduce 12 months a year. Farmers and residents alike are pestered by critters like Argentine ants and brown garden snails that were brought here from other parts of the world. Because these pests attack crops and are nuisances around the home, large amounts of pesticides are used annually for control.

Pests can’t travel here on their own. They are introduced by human activity through two major pathways. The first is individuals

carrying plants, fruits, or vegetables back from travels abroad or from other states and not declaring the items. The second is receiving those items from friends or relatives in package shipments that have not been clearly marked as farm products, which would make them subject to inspection. In either case, exotic insects can hitchhike with the products and invade vulnerable crops.

At the moment, farmers in the county are battling four significant introduced insect pests: the Asian citrus psyllid that was likely brought in from Mexico; the light brown apple moth from New Zealand; the Kuroshio shot hole borer that arrived from Asia; and the Mexican fruit fly, another import from Mexico. In all cases farmers are forced to take extraordinary steps to protect their crops, and in the worst cases, their farms can be placed in quarantine with regulatory orders not to harvest or ship.

San Diego County is home to more certified organic farmers than any other county in the nation and those farmers are particularly at risk from new pests. The only solution for stemming the flow of exotic pests is for members of the public to respect existing state and federal regulations prohibiting the importation of plants, fruits, and vegetables by following the appropriate protocols.

Two and a half centuries of local farm history shows us that farmers have faced challenges and found solutions that allow them to stay on the land producing the crops we all enjoy. However, when it comes to water, labor, and new pests, farmers could use an assist from the entire community. D

Eric Larson lives with his wife Jennifer in Carlsbad, where he has served two terms on the city council and made vital contributions to the city’s general plan. Larson has over 34 years of experience working in diverse sectors of the San Diego County agricultural industry. In addition to serving as the executive director of the San Diego Farm Bureau, Larson actively works to advocate for improved water resources for local farmers.

Much more than a psychoactive ingestible product for medical or recreational purposes, hemp is cultivated across the United States for use in clothing and textiles, paper, biodegradable plastics, building materials, and health foods.

Hemp also requires less stringent environmental conditions than its counterpart from the same plant, cannabis, does for successful harvesting. It has broad applications when whittled down to cannabidiol—a.k.a. CBD, a nonintoxicating compound—as it can be applied or ingested in various forms and is considered therapeutic for anxiety, pain relief, inflammation, and countless other health issues. For these reasons, hemp is legally and environmentally easier, and in some cases more profitable, to cultivate than cannabis, which is used for its intoxicating effects whether recreationally or medicinally.

According to Dr. Allison Justice, vice president of Cultivation for OutCo, wouldbe hemp growers in San Diego County can hope for more clarity on licensing by the end of 2018, though the certainty of legalization for cultivation is far from certain.

Justice explains to Edible San Diego that the road has been a long and winding one for San Diego’s hopeful hemp farmers.

“Oh, everybody is ready,” Justice says, referring to the farmers. “They show up at the [California Industrial Hemp Advisory] Board meetings and they let us know that they are ready. Hemp is another agricultural commodity that has a much better dollarper-pound than any other agricultural product.”

Hopeful for Hemp

By Jackie Bryant

So what’s the snag? Unsurprisingly, because this is a brand-new industry in California, there are a lot of logistical and legal hoops to jump through before anything can become legal.

“We have to figure out everything from regulations to testing,” Justice explains. “So, for example, with testing, who actually comes out and tests? Is it the agricultural commissioner? Is it the testing laboratory, like with cannabis? We have to make those decisions. And then we have to put a price on those services,” she says, emphasizing again that this is a brand-new industry.

“That brings up a whole host of other issues,” she continues. “To get started, we have to ask agricultural or government authorities to find out how they price things, and then we have to come back to the board to report and make a decision, which takes time. It’s a big responsibility— if you do it wrong, the farmer or the government itself could lose a lot of money.”

Justice adds that after a lengthy process, which applies to just one segment of the industry—testing—only then is a 45-day wait period initiated where the public is invited to comment on the impending decision. The good news? The fee structure has been more or less worked out, along with the testing procedures, Justice says. Also in place is the structure whereby only certified seeds will be allowed to be cultivated in California, something that the USDA required prior to the California Industrial Hemp Advisory Board’s adoption of the procedure, which is in line with state and 2018 farm bill regulations. Certification is determined by an independent third-party analysis of the seeds to ensure that the plant mixture is consistent.

Most of the people interested in entering hemp production are already farmers, Justice says. She explains that there are unique challenges in San Diego, owing to a general dearth of water supply, but she estimates that the greatest number of people interested are present-day cut-flower farmers, particularly in North County. Originally these farmers wanted in on cannabis production, but once that was shut down in San Diego County, all eyes turned towards hemp.

The possibility of hemp cultivation comes at a particularly interesting time for the cutflower industry. Justice details how most of the industry is moving abroad, particularly to Mexico and countries in Africa, for cheaper land, labor, and other resources.

“Most of those farmers were looking for a replacement crop anyway, or at least something else to supplement, because many are struggling to stay afloat, especially in a market like San Diego’s. So hemp provides a beautiful substitution, whereas maybe they’d move into broccoli, for example, or something else entirely. Hemp is the perfect solution because it is expensive enough per pound that it could float labor costs, among other expenses,” Justice says.

Despite all of the work already done to get San Diego’s hemp cultivation in motion, the jury is still out on whether or not it will come to fruition. Though the state may approve it, the county is still able to reject it. Opposition is fierce, with community activists claiming that growing any kind of cannabis product in the county would lead to easier access for children.

Another consideration is environmental— Justice refers to it as the “fright” that industrial hemp presents to the cannabis community. She explains that if a certain farmer is growing for seed production, male plants will be present, which isn’t a concern. But pollen can travel by air up to 30 miles, mix with personal female plants cultivated for THC harvesting, and, as Justice puts it, the fear is that hemp could produce a well-seeded wild cannabis plant takeover of San Diego County’s flora.

That fear is overblown, but it understates the reality: The future of hemp cultivation in San Diego County is far from concrete and is fraught with contentious debate. While the potential economic and agricultural benefits are numerous, the future remains bright but uncertain. D

Jackie Bryant is a freelance writer who lives in Ocean Beach. More of her work can be found at jackiebryantwriting.com.

Carlsbad: The Village by the Sea

Story and photos by Olivia Hayo

With seven miles of sweeping coastline, family-friendly attractions, hiking, and shopping, Carlsbad is an obvious destination for tourists from all over the world. But what about for a local? With my sister by my side, I ditched my car and jumped on the Coaster for a full day on foot touring around the Village by the Sea.

9am—Steady State Roasting

A short walk from the Carlsbad Village train station, the small-batch coffee roaster Steady State focuses on specialty brews that go far beyond your typical cup of joe. What started as a passion project for owner Elliot Reinecke has evolved into a light-filled community hub with a relaxed coastal vibe. A rotating selection of single-origin beans highlights each variety’s unique tasting notes, ranging from floral to fruity to nutty. We opted for the Cold Fashioned, a non-alcoholic, caffeinated take on the classic cocktail. It was unexpected and refreshing with spicy sassafras, earthy bitters, and sweet honey, served with a twist of orange peel over ice. The shop’s menu constantly changes with the seasons, but a year-round favorite is the Honey, Please, a latte sweetened with local Vista honey and topped with freshly ground cinnamon. It pairs delightfully with their in-house selection of Prager Brothers pastries.

10am—The Goods

Only a few minutes down State Street we were welcomed by the Barille family inside their art deco-style doughnut and coffee shop, The Goods. The blue-velvet banquette seating with marble-topped tables enticed us to sit awhile, so we spoke with owner Jacquie and her daughter-in-

law Aeriel about their most popular flavors, like the Boston cream and Tahitian vanilla doughnuts. Everything is made in-house and baked in batches throughout the day, ensuring their doughnuts are always fresh. And with gluten-free and vegan varieties available, there’s a treat for everyone. The s’mores doughnut, a customer favorite, is a nostalgic nod to summer beach bonfires with marshmallow cream filling, chocolate ganache glaze, graham cracker crumbs, and toasted marshmallow topping. The weekly farmers’ market sets up right outside their door, inspiring seasonal sourcing and creative flavors like the strawberry cheesecake doughnut.

Our sweet tooth satisfied, we waved goodbye and set out for the beach, but first we packed for a picnic a few doors down.

11am—Vigilucci’s & Beach Time

We stopped into Vigilucci’s Market, a throwback deli counter stocked with local and imported specialty foods used in made-to-order panini, cheese boards, and salads. For a day at the beach we picked the Calabria panini filled with spicy salamis, sweet roasted peppers, sharp provolone, and tangy vinaigrette. With a side of briny olives and cold Italian sodas in hand we were set. After a short walk west on Grand Avenue, we posted up on the sand for lunch and watched the surf.

3pm—Gaia Gelato

We left the sun and salt of the beach for shade and something sweet at Gaia Gelato. Located in the Village Faire courtyard, the shop stands out for its Italian-style interior and welcoming team behind the counter. A quick glance at the display case and it’s easy to tell this gelato is the real

deal. Cousins Paola and Christina moved to Carlsbad from Rome with a mission: to craft honest food made from the best ingredients. Everything is homemade down to steeping fresh mint leaves for their mint chocolate chip gelato. We watched through a large window into the kitchen where every step of production is on display, and were invited to try a fresh batch of honey lavender gelato. It was just the right balance of sweet and floral, a brilliant complement to the warm day. In need of an afternoon pick-me-up, we decided to share an affogato, hot espresso poured over our choice of rich, nutty hazelnut gelato. Recharged, we made our way to State Street to cruise the farmers’ market.

4pm—Farmers’ Market Wednesdays

Musicians played the soundtrack for our Wednesday afternoon stroll through the State Street Farmers’ Market. Restaurant patios lining the street bustled with diners as locals shopped under the pop-up tents. We stopped at a table piled high with strawberries, zucchini blossoms, and heirloom tomatoes to stock up on our summer favorites for the week before heading to dinner further up State Street.

6pm—Campfire

After a full day of exploring, we arrived at Campfire, a live-fire restaurant with indoor and outdoor dining spaces, complete with a fire pit and nostalgic camping gear to set the mood. We chatted with general manager Matthew King about owner John Resnick’s unique vision to create a dining concept that embodies all the elements of that innate camaraderie built around a campfire.

We sat at a communal table with a frontrow view of the open kitchen as the bar filled up for happy hour. Leigh Lacap manages the inventive bar program and finds inspiration for his cocktails directly from the kitchen. The smoked honeydew cocktail with dry sherry and floral vermouth was an excellent aperitif for the evening. Chef Andrew Bachelier keeps the menu sharp with a market-driven approach that shapes the cuisine daily. Our first dish showcased roasted beets, sweet pea tendrils, and citrus with avocado and spicy harissa yogurt, a stunning and fresh start to our meal. Next up was a rich smoked duck breast with toasted almond, tart cherry, and vanilla-infused cauliflower puree. A well-balanced combination, it was an ideal ending to our meal.

Our day in Carlsbad left us inspired by the passion each business has for their community. These businesses support each other and foster relationships with their neighbors, creating a collaborative environment that’s something to be proud of. Don’t be fooled by the laid-back vibes, this city is a thriving destination perfect for your next day trip if you don’t already call it home. D

Olivia Hayo is a chef, recipe developer, and photographer. She has a master’s degree in food culture, communications, and high-quality products from the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Italy . When she’s not creating recipes for her website Beautiful Food Inside + Out, you can find her in the kitchen or at the farmers’ market. Follow her at @OliviaHayo on Instagram or visit oliviahayo.com to read more.

Top left to right: Cold Fashioned at Steady State Roasting, The Goods (2 & 3), Gaia Gelato. Middle left to right: State Street Farmers’ Market, Campfire salad, grill at Campfire, Campfire dining room. Bottom: Cocktail at Campfire.

San Pasqual Valley Agricultural Preserve

Did you know that San Diego’s San Pasqual Valley is home to an agricultural preserve largely owned by the City of San Diego Water Utilities Department? The 14,000-acre area located just south of Escondido was designated as an agricultural and openspace preserve in the 1960s. It is now home to many regional producers, including Be Wise Ranch and Konyn Dairy Farm, and more than 2,600 animals residing within the 1,800 acres that house the San Diego Zoo Safari Park.

You can enjoy the bucolic views of the valley while hiking the San Pasqual Valley Trail, part of the 70-mile Coast to Crest Trail that extends from Del Mar to Volcan Mountain.

SAN DIEGO GROWN 365

We asked Catt White, director of San Diego Markets, what produce to look forward to in July and August. Here’s what she shared.

Stone Fruits: Peaches, nectarines, plums, and pluots will be coming into their peak season.

Figs: Adriatic, Black Mission, and Brown Turkey are the most common here.

Plus, look out for an assortment of eggplants, okra, and lots of peppers including padron, jalapeño, shishito, pasilla, serrano and more.

EVENTS

Little Italy Food Hall

The highly anticipated Little Italy Food Hall will celebrate its grand opening in July. The venue will feature a lineup of food vendors that include Mein St. Asian Kitchen (offering a variety of Asian cuisine comfort foods, including housemade dumplings, succulent wings, and refreshing honey boba milk tea) and Not Not Tacos by Sam the Cooking Guy (a debut of his eclectic mix of “tacos” filled with unexpected ingredients like meatloaf and pastrami). Other vendors include Milanstyle pizzeria Ambrogio15 (popular for its flagship location in North Pacific Beach), Roast Meat & Sandwich Shop, Wicked Maine Lobster, Single Fin Kitchen and more. littleitalyfoodhall.com

Street Food Cinema

Pizza from Ambrogio15

The BLVD Market will transform El Cajon Boulevard and Utah Street into and an expansive outdoor movie theater and culinary hub. Get tickets to watch Mean Girls on July 14 and enjoy food from Cousins Maine Lobster, Eat Your Heart Out, Seoul Man, Chicano Soul Food, Gaucho Grilling, Jamaican Jerk Hut, Ibo’s, Sabor Piri Piri and more!

theboulevard.org streetfoodcinema.com

Farm to Bay

Join the Living Coast Discovery Center on Saturday, August 4 from 4–7:30pm to support coastal wildlife. The eighth annual Farm to Bay event gets better every year, featuring gourmet small

plates, beverages, and desserts from dozens of San Diego’s favorite chefs, like Matt Gordon (Urban Solace), Will Gustwiller (Eclipse Chocolate Bar & Bistro), and Miguel Valdez (former executive chef of The Red Door). Expect local vintners, brewers, farmers, animal encounters, live entertainment, silent auctions, and more. thelivingcoast.org

Artisan Table, Thursdays at A.R. Valentien

For a unique farm-to-table experience at The Lodge at Torrey Pines, try this intimate communal dinner prepared by executive chef Jeff Jackson and chef de cuisine Kelli Crosson. Here, you’ll be presented with tempting dishes expertly paired with delicious wines, all while enjoying the view from the terrace overlooking the 18th hole of the Torrey Pines Golf Course.

lodgetorreypines.com

Cooking Classes at Solare Ristorante

Learn to craft Italian cuisine with chefs Accursio and Brian during this immersive, hands-on experience in Solare’s commercial kitchen. Italian-style coffee and pastries are served along with Italian wine for students interested in cooking with wine. Classes are $75, take place every other Saturday, and limited to 10 participants. solarelounge.com

Monday

Escondido—Welk Resort # 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3–7pm, year-round 760-651-3630

Seeds @ City Urban Farm 16th & C Sts., San Diego City College 10:30am–12:30pm (Sept to June) cityfarm@sdccd.edu

Tuesday

Coronado

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30–6pm 760-741-3763

Escondido * Heritage Garden Park Juniper btwn Grand & Valley Pkwy. 2:30–6pm, year-round 760-480-4101

Mira Mesa * 10510 Reagan Rd. 2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 858-272-7054

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista 2015 Birch Rd. & Eastlake Blvd. 4–8pm (3–7pm winter hours) 619-279-0032

Pacific Beach Tuesday *# Bayard & Garnet 2–7:30pm (2–7pm fall-winter) 619-233-3901

UCSD Town Square UCSD Campus, Town Square 10am–2pm (Sept to June) 858-534-4248

Vail Headquarters * 32115 Temecula Pkwy. 9am–1pm 760-728-7343

Wednesday

Grantville—NEW 4647 Zion Ave. Noon–4pm 619-550-7180

Ocean Beach 4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–7pm (4–8pm summer) 619-279-0032

People’s Produce Night Market *# 1655 Euclid Ave. 5–8pm 619-262-2022

Santee *# Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd. 3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter) 619-449-8427

State Street in Carlsbad Village State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 858-272-7054

Temecula—Promenade * 40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9am–1pm 760-728-7343

T

hursday

Linda Vista *# 6900 Linda Vista Rd. 3–7pm (2–6pm winter hours) 760-504-4363

North Park Thursday *# North Park Way & 30th St. 3–7:30pm, year-round 619-233-3901

Oceanside Morning * Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9am–1pm 760-791-3241

Rancho Bernardo 16535 Via Esprillo btwn Via Fontero & Via del Campo 11am–2pm 619-279-0032

SDSU Campanile Walkway btwn Hepner Hall & Love Library 10am–3pm (Sept to June) www.clube3.org

Sleeves Up Horton Plaza 199 Horton Plaza 10am–2pm 619-481-4959

Valley Center 28246 Lilac Rd. 3–7pm vccountryfarmersmarket@gmail.com

Friday

Borrego Springs Christmas Circle Comm. Park 7am–noon (late Oct to May) 760-767-5555

Horton Plaza # 225 Broadway Circle 11am–2pm 619-550-7180

Imperial Beach *# Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza Oct to Mar, 2–7pm; Apr to Sept, 2–7:30pm info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org

La Mesa Village * Corner of Spring St. & University 3–7pm, year-round 619-550-7180

Rancho Bernardo Winery 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9am–1pm 760-500-1709

Saturday

City Heights *!# Wightman St. btwn Fairmount & 43rd St. 9am–1pm 760-504-4363

Del Mar Upper Shores Park 225 9th St. 1–4pm 858-465-0013

Little Italy Mercato #* W. Cedar St. (Kettner to Front St.) 8am–2pm 619-233-3901

Pacific Beach 4150 Mission Blvd. 8am–noon 760-741-3763

Poway * Old Poway Park 14134 Midland Rd. at Temple 8am–1pm 619-249-9395

Rancho Penasquitos YMCA 9400 Fairgrove Ln. & Salmon River Rd. 9am–1pm 858-484-8788

Scripps Ranch 10380 Spring Canyon Rd. & Scripps Poway Pkwy. 10am–2:30pm 858-586-7933

Temecula—Old Town * Sixth & Front St., Old Town 8am–12:30pm 760-728-7343

Vista *# 325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 78 8am–1pm 760-945-7425

Sunday

Allied Gardens Sunday Lewis Middle School 5170 Greenbrier Ave. 10am–2pm 858-568-6291, 619-865-6574

Fallbrook—Valley Fort 3757 South Mission Rd., Fallbrook 10am–3pm 951-695-0045

Hillcrest * 3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9am–2pm 619-237-1632

La Jolla Open Aire Girard Ave. & Genter 9am–2pm 858-454-1699

Leucadia * 185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10am–2pm 858-272-7054

Murrieta * Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/Kalmia 9am–1pm 760-728-7343

North San Diego / Sikes Adobe # 12655 Sunset Dr., Escondido 10:30am–3:30pm, year-round 858-735-5311

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village 16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9:30am–2pm 619-743-4263

Santa Ysabel 21887 Washington St. Hwy 78 and 79 Noon–4pm 760-782-9202

Solana Beach 410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. Noon–5pm 858-755-0444

* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks)

# Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer)

! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC

Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks.

All San Diego County markets listed except Rincon, SDSU, Seeds @ City, and

Valley Fort Sunday are certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Farmers’ Markets” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites.

This list is updated each issue with the most current information provided by market managers.

FARMS, FARMERS’ MARKETS, PRODUCE, & MEAL DELIVERY SERVICES

COASTAL ROOTS FARM STAND

Cultivating healthy communities by integrating sustainable agriculture, food justice, and Jewish wisdom. Farm Stand open Sun, 10am–3pm; Thu, 2–6pm. 441 Saxony Rd., Encinitas, 92024 • hello@coastalrootsfarm • 760-479-6505 • CoastalRootsFarm.org

DICKINSON FARM

Veteran owned and operated farm in National City producing organically grown, heirloom fruits, vegetables, and herbs. 1430 E 24th St., National City, 91950 • hello@dickinson.farm • 858-848-6914 • dickinson.farm

ESCONDIDO CERTIFIED FARMERS’ MARKET

Find everything you need here, including meat. Sponsored by the Escondido Arts Partnership. Tue, 2:30–6pm year-round on Grand Ave. between Juniper and Kalmia. • 760-480-4101 • EscondidoArt.org

FALLBROOK—VALLEY FORT SUNDAY FARMERS’ MARKET

Sun from 10am–3pm at the Valley Fort, 3757 S. Mission Rd., Fallbrook. Great atmosphere, vendors, and music. • skippaula@ verizon.net • 951-695-0045 • TheValleyFort.com

FARM FRESH TO YOU

Delivers organic produce to your door from family farms in Capay, and San Diego and Imperial Counties. Sign up with code “eathealthy18.” contactus@farmfreshtoyou.com • 800-796-6009 • FarmFreshToYou.com

FARM STAND WEST

Local, seasonal, and farm-fresh produce (and other foods). All produce grown locally, ensuring it is fresh and delicious. Open daily 10am-6pm. 2115 Miller Ave. Citracado Pkwy at Interstate 15, Exit 29, Escondido • 760-738-9014 • TheFarmStandWest.com

LA JOLLA OPEN AIRE MARKET

Sun, 9am–1pm at La Jolla Elementary School on Girard. A great community success story! All proceeds benefit the school. 7335 Girard Ave. at Genter. • 858-454-1699 • LaJollaMarket.com

LEUCADIA FARMERS’ MARKET

Sun, 10am–2pm at Paul Ecke Central School, 185 Union St. off Vulcan in Leucadia. A big weekend farmers’ market with just about everything, including knife-sharpening. • 858-272-7054 • leucadia101.com

LUCKY BOLT

Lucky Bolt makes it easy and affordable to eat well while you’re busy at work. Order by 10:30am and lunch will arrive between 11:30am and 12:30pm. • talk@luckybolt.com • LuckyBolt.com

NORTH SAN DIEGO/SIKES ADOBE CERTIFIED FARMERS’ MARKET

Sun, from 10:30am–3:30pm, year-round. Fresh produce, pastured eggs, raw honey, plants, ready-to-eat and take-home foods from San Diego County producers. EBT/credit cards accepted. I-15 at Via Rancho Pkwy, Escondido • 858-735-5311 • NSDCFM.com

OCEANSIDE MORNING FARMERS’ MARKET 9am–1pm every Thu, rain or shine, at 300 No. Coast Hwy. Certified fresh, locally grown fruits, veggies and flowers, hot food, baked goods, and crafts. • outbackfarm@sbcglobal.net • 619-249-9395 • MainStreetOceanside.com

RFB FAMILY FARM & APIARIES

Local honey production from hives on small family farms and not-soordinary, locally grown produce and plants from a Rancho Penasquitos family farm. Producer of PQ Backyard Honey. Find RFB in the Certified Producers sections of select local farmers’ markets. • RFBFamilyFarm.com

SAN DIEGO MARKETS

Farmers’ markets with great selections. Pacific Beach on Bayard btwn Grand & Garnet (Tue, 2–7pm); North Park Thursday at No. Park Way & 30th, (Thu, 3–7:30pm); and Little Italy Mercato, Cedar St. (Sat, 8–2pm). EBT accepted. PB and NP also accept WIC. • 619-233-3901 • SanDiegoMarkets.com

STATE ST. FARMERS’ MARKET IN CARLSBAD VILLAGE Convenient midweek market. Wed, 3–6pm in fall/winter, 3–7pm in spring and summer. Over 50 vendors in Carlsbad Village east of the railroad tracks. • ronlachance@gsws.net • 858-272-7054 • CarlsbadVillage.com

RESTAURANTS, FOODIE DESTINATIONS, & CATERING

A.R. VALENTIEN

Enjoy market-driven, seasonal cuisine and experience the art of fine dining in an elegant timbered room overlooking the 18th hole of the Torrey Pines Golf Course. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Rd. • 858-453-4420 • LodgeTorreyPines.com

BETTY’S WHOLE PIE

Sweet and savory pies, from coconut to chicken pot, are the focus at this Southern-style outfit. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 155 Quail Gardens Dr., Encinitas, 92024 • 760-230-6781 • BettysPieWhole.com

MITCH’S SEAFOOD

Casual waterfront dining in the historic fishing neighborhood of Point Loma, serving locally caught seafood with a view of the bay and the San Diego sportfishing fleet. 1403 Scott St., San Diego • 619-222-8787 • MitchsSeafood.com

SOLARE RISTORANTE & LOUNGE

Local produce, fresh-made pasta, sustainably caught fish, hormone-free meat, exceptional wines, and craft cocktails. Tue–Sun happy hour, Tue wine specials. 2820 Roosevelt Rd., Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-270-9670 • SolareLounge.com

SPECIALTY FOODS & OTHER PRODUCTS

DEANNA’S GLUTEN FREE BAKING COMPANY

Committed to creating the very best gluten-free and allergen-free breads and pastries, using only the finest, natural ingredients. 2250 S. Escondido Blvd. Suite 110, Escondido, 92025 • 760-432-6100 • info@deannasgf.com • DeannasGF.com

ESCOGELATO

EscoGelato’s luscious, super-creamy gelato is full of intense flavor and made fresh daily with the highest quality ingredients including fruit sourced from local farmers at the Escondido Farmers’ Market. 122 South Kalmia, Escondido, 92025 • 760-745-6500 • EscoGelato.com

MAXOTA RAW

Feed your dog food made from best quality human grade meats, organic fruit & vegetables, organic micro & macro nutrients with no fillers, additives, or preservatives. Grain-and antibiotic-free and non-GMO. • 845-328-0364 • UrbanWolf@MaxotaRaw.com • MaxotaRaw.com

NORTH COUNTY OLIVE OIL

California extra-virgin olive oil and local balsamic vinegar. Tasting bar open Fri–Sun, 11–4pm. Open 7 days a week. For Olive Oil 101 classes and private corporate tastings and events, call 760-518-5161. • 155 Quail Gardens Dr., Encinitas, 92024 • NorthCountyOliveOil.com

PALEO TREATS

Foodie-approved paleo desserts since 2009! These guys are serious about flavor, texture, ingredients, and all things paleo. Shipped all over the world. 100% guaranteed. 619-795-2203 • 4662 30th St., San Diego, 92116 • PaleoTreats.com

FLORISTS, GARDEN, LANDSCAPING, FARM & RANCH RESOURCES

A GROWING PASSION

An award-winning TV and online garden lifestyle program featuring one of the West’s leading garden experts, Nan Sterman. Viewers see local farms, residential gardens, vineyards, native habitats, green rooftops, community gardens, and nurseries.• Thu, 8:30pm and Sat, 3:30pm on KPBS, and online. • AGrowingPassion.com/tv-schedu

ECOLIFE CONSERVATION

Dedicated to a world in which humans and nature live harmoniously using conservation as a tool. Aquaponics, fuel efficient stoves, eco kits

and a lot more. Annual gala on Sept 22, 2018. 760-740-1346 • 101 N Broadway Escondido 92025 • EcolifeConservation.org

GRANGETTO’S FARM & GARDEN SUPPLY

Organic headquarters for plant food, amendments & mulch, seed & sod, veggies & flowers, garden tools, water storage, irrigation & vineyard supplies, bird feeders, pest & weed control. Articles, tips, and how-tos at Grangettos.com. Encinitas, Fallbrook, Escondido, and Valley Center.

GREEN THUMB SUPER GARDEN CENTER

Family-owned since 1946. Organic and natural products for your edible garden, trees, shrubs, flowers, succulents, and everything you need for their care. Home canning supplies. 1019 San Marcos Blvd. off the 79 Fwy near Via Vera Cruz • 760-744-3822 • SuperGarden.com

SAN DIEGO SEED COMPANY

Heirloom vegetable, herb, and companion flower seeds grown sustainably and acclimated to our microclimates and soil conditions. Buy online at SanDiegoSeedCompany.com and at select nurseries, garden and farm supply stores. • 414-797-3726 • SanDiegoSeedCompany.com

SUNSHINE GARDENS

Large selection of succulents, herbs, pottery, vegetables, seeds, garden art, and a friendly and knowledgeable staff. 760-436-3244 • 155 Quail Gardens Dr. at the corner of Encinitas Blvd., Encinitas, 92024 • SunshineGardensInc.com

TWIGS BY TERI

Encinitas florist known for sophisticated floral designs, oneof-a-kind gifts made by local artisans, and a huge selection of Fairy Garden items. Open Tue–Sun. 760-943-8757. • 155 Quail Gardens Dr., Encinitas, 92024 • TwigsByTeri.com

UNDERWATER ENVIRONMENTS

San Diego County’s largest dealer in fine, imported Japanese koi and aquatic plants, and leader in the local pond industry, koi pond filtration systems, and water gardens. Open daily inside Sunshine Gardens. 760634-1404. • 155 Quail Gardens Dr., Encinitas, 92024 • UEKoi.com

URBAN PLANTATIONS

Edible gardens and fruit trees for your home and business. Complete design, installation, maintenance, and refresh services for everything from small home gardens to restaurant and corporate campus gardens. • 619-563-5771 • UrbanPlantations.com

WILD WILLOW FARM & EDUCATION CENTER

Educating the next generation of farmers, gardeners, and homesteaders. Farming 101: Intro to Small Scale Regenerative Farming course runs July 14 to Aug 25. Visit their blog at theartofagriculture.org • wildwillowfarm@sandiegoroots.org • SanDiegoRoots.org/far

GROCERY

JIMBO’S . . . NATURALLY!

Jimbo’s…Naturally! is a complete grocery store providing a full line of groceries, vitamins, health & beauty aids, hormone-free and antibiotic-free meats, deli, 100% organic salad bar, made-fromscratch bakery, and juice bar. Carmel Valley • Escondido • Carlsbad • 4S Ranch • Westfield Horton Plaza Downtown • Jimbo.com

RAMONA FAMILY NATURALS

Family-owned and operated natural food market with local, organic produce, raw milk, grass-fed meats, vitamins, supplements, and more. Open Mon–Fri, 8am–7:30pm, Sat, 8am–6pm, and Sun, 10am–6pm. 325 6th St., Ramona • 760-787-5987 • ramonafamilynatural.com

MEAT

DA-LE RANCH

Sustainably raised USDA-inspected meats by the cut and CSA. Beef, pork, lamb, chicken, turkey, duck, rabbit, quail, pheasant, and bison. Free-range eggs. No hormones, steroids, incremental antibiotics, GMOs or soy. Find at SD County farmers’ markets, or at farm by appointment. • da-le-ranch.com •dave@da-le-ranch.com

HOME FURNISHINGS & REAL ESTATE

MID CENTURY

By buying beautiful mid-century modern and Danish contemporary furniture you reduce resources used to make new furniture. The shop buys vintage furniture and accessories. Tue–Sun, 11:30–5:30pm. 3795 Park Blvd., San Diego 92103 • 619-295-4832 • MidCenturyStore.com

URBAN DWELLINGS REAL ESTATE

Dominick Fiume, real estate broker, provides exceptional customer service with specialized knowledge of urban San Diego. CalBRE No. 01017892 1228 University Ave. Ste. 200, San Diego, 92103 • 619-543-9500

EDUCATION

BASTYR UNIVERSITY CALIFORNIA

California’s only fully accredited naturopathic medical school offers degrees in nutrition and culinary arts, and a Master of Science in nutrition for wellness. Cooking classes offered. • 4106 Sorrento Valley Blvd., San Diego, CA 92121 • 858-246-9700 • Bastyr.edu/california.com

FRIENDS OF FARMING

Agriculture benefits local economy, culture, and environment. Become a Friend of Farming to support San Diego’s farmers and receive exclusive invitations to farm tours and a free subscription to Edible San Diego. 420 South Broadway, Suite 200 Escondido 92025 • 760-745-3023 • FriendsOfFarming.com

SEAFOOD RETAIL

CATALINA OFFSHORE PRODUCTS

Bustling wholesale and retail seafood market in a working warehouse that offers fresh, sustainably harvested seafood, much of it from local waters. Open Mon and Tue, 8–3pm; Wed–Sun, 8–5pm. 5202 Lovelock St., San Diego, 92110 • 619-297-9797 • CatalinaOP.com

DESTINATIONS

CLAYTON VACATIONS

Experience Spotlight on Wine in the Mediterranean. Hosted dinners, wine tastings, and meet-and-greets on board the Regent Seven Seas Voyager with a renowned wine expert. Contact Bitsy Clayton, cruise and vacation specialist. • 888-451-6524; 858-451-6524 • bitsy@claytonvacations.com • ClaytonVacations.com

VISIT ESCONDIDO

Just 30 miles from San Diego and 20 minutes from the coast, Escondido is home to beautiful wineries, craft breweries, unique arts and theater, delicious culinary experiences, a charming and historic downtown, and it has a lovely climate. Visit Escondido! • VisitEscondido.com

WINE, BEER, & SPIRITS

CHUPAROSA VINEYARDS

100% estate-grown Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, and Albariño. Picnic on the patio overlooking the vines or warm up by the fireplace this winter inside the rustic tasting room. Open Sat and Sun 11–5pm. 910 Gem Ln., Ramona, 92065 • 760-788-0059 • ChuparosaVineyards.com

DOMAINE ARTEFACT

Dedicated to growing Rhone grape varietals and vinifying and blending them in traditional and innovative ways. Available for private events. Open for tastings Sat and Sun, noon–6pm. 15404 Highland Valley Rd., Escondido, 92025 • 760-432-8034 • Domaine-ArtefactWine.com

JACK SIMON VINEYARDS

A California wine estate producing Rhone and Iberian varietals high in the foothills of Palomar Mountain with a view of the ocean 30 miles to the west. Tasting room: 298 Enterprise St. Suite D, Escondido, 92029 • 888409-8610 • info@jacksimonvineyards.com • JackSimonVineyards.com

WOOF’N ROSE WINERY

Award-winning red wines made from 100% Ramona Valley American Vitacultural Area (AVA) grapes, mostly estate grown. Open most Sat and Sun, 11–5pm, and by appointment. Call ahead for good directions and to confirm availability. • 760-788-4818 • WoofNRose.com

CalBRE No. 01017892 Tami McCraw Realtor

By Maria Hesse

These oyster shooters are nothing less than addictive, even to those who might be oyster squeamish. In fact, consider them your gateway drug to oyster loving.

Serves 8

4 medium-sized oysters

8 ounces hot sake

8 quail eggs

Ponzu sauce (DIY recipe below) Sriracha to taste

Scallions, thinly sliced

Lemon, thinly sliced and quartered 8 1½-ounce shot glasses

Shuck 4 oysters and remove from shell. Cut each oyster in half and keep chilled until ready to use. Pour 1 ounce of hot sake into each shot glass. Crack open and drop 1 raw quail egg into each shot glass while the sake is still hot so the quail egg becomes lightly poached. Add half an oyster to each shot glass. Top off shot glasses with a dash of ponzu and Sriracha to taste. Sprinkle with scallions and garnish with lemon.

Enjoy immediately.

Perfect Oyster shOOters

*You can easily modify the recipe and make virgin shots by substituting hot water for the sake. And the recipe is versatile, making it simple to sub in other delicacies from the sea like scallops and uni for the oysters.

Tips for Heating Up Your Sake:

If you have a traditional ceramic sake decanter, you can heat your sake in a hot bath of boiling water on a stovetop. Other less traditional options such as microwaving or warming it directly in a pan may offend purists, but are suitable options for heating nonetheless. Look for an ideal temperature window of 104°–122°, but note that the flavor profile of the sake does change with a difference as little as two degrees.

Oyster-Shucking Tips:

Hold your oyster at the sides, with the top facing up at you. If you’re a novice shucker, you can keep the oyster steady by holding it with a towel, which also helps prevent getting cut by the oyster shell.

Insert the tip of your shucking tool toward the back of the oyster at the hinge and give it a slight wiggle until the top shell comes off.

Use the shucking tool to lightly scrape the muscle from the top of the shell, and give the meat a push from side to side to loosen it from the bottom shell.

What’s Ponzu?

Ponzu is a citrus-based Japanese dipping sauce. Traditional recipes call for the use of yuzu, a common Japanese citrus, while some Americanized recipes use combinations of limes, lemons, and oranges. You can often find premade ponzu in Asian specialty food sections and markets. If you’re ambitious and want to make your own ponzu, you can typically pick up

bottled yuzu juice at Japanese markets along with other ingredients like bonito flakes.

¼ cup mirin

3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons bonito flakes

¼ cup yuzu or lime juice (more to taste if preferred)

Combine mirin, vinegar, soy sauce, and bonito flakes in saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Strain out bonito flakes and mix in yuzu or lime juice. Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container and enjoy within 5 days.

IllustrationbyRileyDavenport

Explore a world of local food through the magazines and websites of Edible Communities. We’ll introduce you to the chefs, farmers, brewers, home cooks and others who inspire and sustain local flavors across the US and Canada. Learn more at ediblecommunities.com