Edible Santa Fe Late Summer, 2012 by edible New Mexico

edible

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD FROM

Member of edible communities

Late Summer 2012

SANTA FE 速 ALBUQUERQUE TAOS

Farm to Restaurant Issue

Good. Morning.

Our brunch features the freshest seasonal organic ingredients. We serve them up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a comforting start to a beautiful day. Make it easy. Make it family... HISTORIC NOB HILL

ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS

Brunch - Sat & Sun 11 - 2:30

Brunch - Sunday 10 - 3

505.254.ZINC(9462)

505.294.WINE(9463)

www.zincabq.com

www.savoyabq.com

. .make it brunch.

Late summer 2012 - farm to restaurant issue in every issue 2

Letter from Editor

Notable edibles Dr. Field Goods, Cooking School, Farm Dinners

8 15

Destination Neighborhood Taos What’s Fresh, What’s Local Raspberries, Raspberry Vinaigrette, Raspberry Slump

DIY Jam Making 101, by Sherri Brook Vinton

Cocktail Culture: Just Add Fruit, by Chris Milligan

Cooking Fresh Taste of Summer: A collection of summer keepers, by Kate Manchester

Delicious New Mexico Urban Orchards, by Erin Seavey

Features

On the Cover

Farm To Restaurant 34 The Real Cost Getting local food on local menus, by Kate Manchester

38 Santa Fe’s Farm to Restaurant Project by Beverly Post

40 The Duke City’s Vibrant Farm to Restaurant Scene by Andrea Feucht 47 Fresh Collective: Albuquerque’s Matchmaker by Nissa Patterson 49 Completing the Circle Soilutions Foodwaste

Carrots. Photo by Stephanie Cameron

Recycling Project, by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

56 last bite ARCA Farm Puts Food on our Plates by Stephanie Cameron

On this Page

Peaches. Photo by Caitlyn Ottinger.

Memoir Swimming Upstream, by Elizabeth Grant Thomas

Eat Local Guide

Edible Events, Summer 2012

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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

letter from the editor Seven years ago, in August 2006, I published the first issue of Edible Santa Fe, and I can hardly believe how the time has flown. I was brand new to New Mexico, and was so excited to throw myself into all things local food, as that was what had defined my life. I came from a family of commercial fisherman on the East coast with a grandfather who would drop off a brown paper bag every morning with the days catch. It was years before I connected the dots intellectually to what we ate, and the certain seasonality that defined the way I thought about food, and ultimately the career path I chose. Looking at place through the lens of food and seasons is a wonderful way to ‘see’ your world and your place in it. Edible has provided a unique opportunity to connect deeply with this community of people who use that same lens. In this issue you will meet a few more of these folks, many of whom you know as they are the people who feed you. Six years ago the Santa Fe Alliance focused their attention on the Farm to Restaurant program, a marketing campaign left by the previous administration. Despite the stacked odds, the Alliance managed to get the program up and running with a $100,000 USDA grant, and to this day the program is much more than a marketing campaign. There are programs like this one all over the country now; the demand for local food has become a mainstream conversation in communities everywhere. This conversation has turned a spotlight on the challenges we all face – from older farmers retiring to fertile land given up for real estate to the challenges of distribution – there are cogs in the wheel throughout the system. New Mexico isn’t any different when it comes to the challenges of getting food from local farms to our plates. Every part of it is challenging, and yet it’s happening. Farmers are proud and tenacious people who nurture soil and seed and bravely face the whims of Mother Nature, in hopes of stacking the odds in such a way that they will have enough to feed themselves, and us. And, that they will be able to earn enough to turn around and do it all again next year. Most chefs are interested in working with the freshest, best tasting food they can get their hands on, which according to most I’ve talked to means local food. It seems like an easy equation, and lots of them are making it work, but it is not without a commitment to relationship between the farmers and chefs – and you – the eaters. We all need to agree to support the farmers who take the biggest risk, and not grumble about what it actually costs. There are no farmers in New Mexico getting rich growing anything, and it costs restaurants more to choose local. In this issue we’ll give you a snapshot of what’s happening here in New Mexico, it’s a big picture with lots of moving parts and hopefully our snapshot will give you something to think about. In the meantime, we would like to thank all of the wonderful people who have and who continue to support this magazine. There are so many local businesses that have put their money where their mouths are to support our Edible mission – which is to bring you a little celebration of what is coaxed from our piece of earth each season. I urge you to support your local farmers in every way you possibly can: By showing up at your farmers’ market and buying, cooking and eating the fruits of their labor, and by supporting your local restaurants who are working with local farmers. Show them that you appreciate their choice to buy food grown in your community. Thank you for your support as readers, you are the reason we continue to do what we do, and we thank you for showing us that you care about it.

Kate Manchester, Stephanie Cameron, and Walt Cameron Follow us on Facebook and Twitter

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

Publisher Bite Size Media, LLC

Editor Kate Manchester

Associate Publisher Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Contributors Sheli Armstrong, Andrea Feucht, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Chris Milligan, Nissa Patterson, Beverly Post, Sergio Salvador, Erin Seavey, Elizabeth Grant Thomas, Sherri Brooks Vinton

Contributing Editors Deborah Madison, Amelia White, Christie Green, Lorelei Kellogg

design and layout Stephanie Cameron

web & social media editors Stephanie Cameron, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

PHOTOGRAPHY Stephanie Cameron, Jennifer Esperanza, Lois Ellen Frank, Caitlyn Ottinger. Sergio Salvador, Carole Topalian

Video Producer D. Walt Cameron

ADVERTISING Regional, National, Events: Sheli Armstrong D. Walt Cameron

CONTACT US: 3301-R Coors Blvd NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Subscribe • Give a Gift Buy an Ad • LETTERS 505-212-0791 or WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or e-mail us at info@ ediblesantafe.com edible Santa Fe takes pride in providing it subscribers with fast, friendly, small town service. edible Santa Fe is published five times a year, spring, summer I and II, fall and winter, by Bite Size Media, LLC. Distribution is throughout Central and Northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2012 All rights reserved.

Inspire, educate, taste, & connect through the story of food. • Cooking Classes and Workshops

• Food Photography

• Recipe Writing and Blogging

• Special Guest Chefs and Writers

A combination of hands on cooking classes, special guests and lectures, Kitchen Sink Stories aims to bring the best teachers and game-changers in food today to our community. Learn a new technique; pair a local wine or craft brew with a dish you’ve created; create something fresh from a local CSA box. Learn everything from how to write a recipe, to the nuts and bolts of food photography. Visit with award-winning chefs, authors and food rebels. Meet your community and join the great big, lively conversation at our table!

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edible

SANTA FE

Log on to register now: KitchenSinkStories.com

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

notable edibles Dr. Field Goods Josh Gerwin’s last gig as many of you may remember was Casa Vieja Restaurant, housed in one of the oldest buildings in the tiny village of Corrales. Old buildings are charming and make for great restaurant ambiance, that is until a wall or roof collapses, which is exactly what happened roughly a year ago. Josh was well known for his massive garden, house charcuterie and a menu full of local meats and game prepared with skill and heart; the restaurants closing left a serious void in the hearts and bellies of his devoted followers. The roof falling in on his dreams wasn’t the end however, you may have recently seen him cooking buffalo heart and rocky mountain oysters on Andrew Zimmern’s Bizarre Foods, and if you’re lucky – you’ve discovered him dishing up more of the same that put him on the map in a serious eats kind of way – at his Dr. Field Goods food truck in Santa Fe. The menu is focused on local, “where the farm meets the street” Gerwin quips. He doesn’t own a microwave or a can opener, and is proud of it. Food is tapas style –local grass-fed burgers are three ounces, or as Gerwin says “appropriate sizes,” which allows guests to try more than one item on the menu. Gerwin grinds all the meat himself and offers three burgers – beef, bison and his own breakfast sausage with an array of optional toppings. Try the Devilled Eggs – flavors change weekly, or his signature New Mexican Barbecue – green chile rubbed, smoky pulled pork on a soft bun, topped with a green chile sauce, sharp cheddar and apple and jicama slaw. The Carne Adovada Egg Rolls with Peanut Dipping Sauce is a lesson in fusion, Gerwin loves mixing Asian, Spanish and Mexican ingredients – and it works. Don’t

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

leave without tasting the hand battered onion rings – smothered in red or green and Gerwin’s signature Feel Good Sauce - this is late night bar food at its best and it’s almost criminal we can only get this for lunch. Vegetarians take heart, you will neither be ignored nor disappointed: the simple Quinoa Salad with chopped seasonal vegetables sings with a sherry vinaigrette and fresh mint; and the Vegetarian Steak Salad is a nutrition packed patty made with red and white beans, barley, whole oats, quinoa and currants, grilled and topped with a savory house-made onion jam, served atop a fresh salad of local greens made with a garlic vinaigrette – all for $6. Prices are more than reasonable for the quality of the food, from $3 to $7 for most items. Breakfast burritos weigh in at $6, but try the Croque Senorita instead: smothered in red or green and topped with an over easy egg, it will hold you past lunch and is downright addictive. If by chance you don’t see something – Dr. Field Goods himself will take your special order. Coming soon – local lunch deliveries; always available – catering. Last weekend Gerwin catered a wedding for 200 at the ski basin out of the truck kitchen, which is actually slightly larger than his last restaurant kitchen. You can find the Dr. Field Goods truck Tuesday through Fridays from 8 am to 3 pm, across from the Design Center in Santa Fe, next to the building with the big clock on it. Picnic tables available. To reach Gerwin for catering, special orders or deliveries, call 505-670-6583. drfieldgoods.com

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notable edibles Kitchen Sink Stories: Dishing Up Class Savor the mouth-watering aromas of a bubbling bolognese, roasting vegetables and fresh herbs wafting through the beautiful new state-ofthe-art Wolf and Sub-Zero demonstration kitchen at Hanks House, a kitchen and home design shop in the heart of downtown Albuquerque. Bite Size Media partners Kate Manchester and Walt and Stephanie Cameron, the partnership that publishes Edible Santa Fe, and Ron and Chris Hanks of Hanks House, have opened Kitchen Sink Stories, a cooking school in Albuquerque. Their schedule offers a wide variety of classes, all concentrating on solid basics and technique, utilizing the finest in locally sourced, seasonal foods. The weekly schedule offers regular three hour classes on everything from mastering the grill or tapas, to longer workshops on food writing, food photography, etiquette, high altitude baking, and sausage making. Hands-on classes run every Thursday evening and can accommodate up to 25 people; Saturday classes and weekly workshops will be added in the fall. Kitchen Sink Stories offers a variety of class options for the novice to the pro, for visiting guests and locals alike. Hanks House owners Ron and Chris Hanks are authorized Sub Zero and Wolf retailers, their gleaming, state-of-the-art kitchen features 3000 square feet of space, and will provide aspiring chefs the opportunity to sample some of the culinary industry’s premier equipment.

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“As food publishers focused on the bounty of New Mexico’s farms and ranches, the cooking school is a natural extension of what we do in print. We want to bring our stories to life, to get more of our community cooking together and around the table to taste the exceptional food grown and raised here in New Mexico - and to meet the chefs, farmers, authors and cooks we interview and work with in the magazine. In addition to the local chefs who will be our regular instructors, we will have guest chefs from out of town and cookbook authors teaching on a regular basis,” said Kate Manchester, co-owner of Kitchen Sink Stories and Edible Santa Fe. Chris Hanks, who with his brother Ron owns Hanks House states “This is a great opportunity for my brother and I to showcase the work we do to a wider audience, and to offer people the opportunity to use some of the finest equipment available to home cooks today.” Executive Chef Shawn Weed of UNM, Executive Chef and Director Rocky Durham of the Santa Fe Culinary Academy, and a other local chefs will lead upcoming classes. Classes take place at Hanks House, 1800 Fourth St., NW in Albuquerque. The classes are 3-4 hours in length on Thursday evenings and Saturday afternoons and will be offered on an on-going basis throughout the year. Several of the workshops will take place at Los Poblanos Inn and Organic Farm as well. The full schedule of classes can be found at kitchensinkstories.com.

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

notable edibles Farm Dinners: The Rio Grande Agricultural Land Trust Dinner

Rio Grand Community Farm Dinner in the Field

Prepared by Albuquerque's finest chefs from Savoy, Seasons Rotisserie, Los Poblanos, and Zinc Bistro, the thirteenth annual Harvest Dinner takes place Sunday, September 16, 3:00 pm to starlight, at the incomparable Los Poblanos Inn and Cultural Center in the North Valley.

Rio Grande Community Farm’s Dinner in the Field was a sellout last year, and this year is shaping up no differently. The dinner kicks off the farms ever popular fall corn maze, and takes place September 23rd, from 5-8 pm.

The sumptuous feast will consist entirely of locally-farmed organic meats, grains, fruits, vegetables, and spirits. Both live and silent auctions round out the evening, so come prepared to take home some wonderful treasures and scrumptious memories. For tickets and more information: rgalt.org.

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

The dinner benefits the Rio Grande Community Farm and their programs, and all the food is locally grown and sourced. Dining will of course be al fresco at the farm, the local feast will be prepared by Savoy’s Liz Griner. Tables will be set with flowers from the field, there will be live music and a selection of local beer and wine. For tickets and information: riograndefarm.org.

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edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012

Taos

destination neighborhoods By Alan Smithee • Illustration by Walt Cameron

Anybody with any magic in their soul can’t help but be enchanted by Taos, its history is long and especially colorful, just like the landscape. Writers and artists love Taos for the mesas, plateaus, and snowcapped mountain peaks against the big New Mexico sky, while the ancient pueblos, historic adobes, and the gaping Rio Grande gorge that cuts a swath through the landscape add drama to the landscape. Visiting Taos can feel as though you’ve stepped back in time. The valley of Taos has been the home, since about 900 A.D., of the Tiwa-speaking Taos Indians, and the Taos Pueblo is the longest continually inhabited community in North America. The Tiwa Indians of the Taos Pueblo had inhabited Taos for centuries when, in 1540, Conquistador Hernando de Alvarado followed the Rio Grande north to the Taos Valley. The way the sun shone off the straw embedded in the

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

adobe walls of the Taos Pueblo made him think he had found the legendary Cities of Gold. Taos means “red willow” in the Tewa language. Taos Pueblo was one of the main centers of trade between Rio Grande Pueblos and the Plains Indians, it was also the center of the Pueblo Revolt in 1680 that drove the Spanish out of New Mexico until 1692. Today, the Pueblo is maintained in its ancient form, although doors and windows have been added in the last century; earlier entrances were through holes in the roof. There is no electricity or running water, indoor plumbing or phones within the pueblo; it is open to the public and guided tours are available. In 1898, two New York artists, Bert Phillips and Ernest Blumenschein, were traveling through Taos, heading for Mexico, when they broke a wagon wheel. Taken by the beauty of Taos, they never left.

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Together they formed the hub of the Taos Society of Artists, established in 1915. In 1919 Mabel Dodge Sterne, wealthy heiress and well known member of the literary intelligentsia moved to Taos with her then third husband, Maurice. They started a literary colony there, and on the advice of Tony Lujan, a Native American whom Mabel would marry in 1923, she bought a 12-acre property. The Mabel Dodge Luhan house has since been designated an historic property, and to this day hosts writers and literary workshops. The Mystique of Taos seduced other celebrity artists, writers, and great thinkers; Elsie Clews Parsons – an early feminist and anthropologist who helped found The New School, writers D. H. Lawrence and Aldous Huxley, painter Georgia O’Keeffe, photographer Ansel Adams – all found great inspiration here. The Rio Grande Gorge suspension bridge, the second largest in the U. S., was built in 1965. It spans the Rio Grande Gorge, which geologically is called a Rift valley, a separation in the earth’s crust caused by faulting and other earth movements when the North American and Pacific plates scraped against each other some twenty-nine million years ago. There was no funding to continue the road on the other side, the bridge was called the “bridge to nowhere.” The views are about as dramatic as you’ll find anywhere in the world, and not to be missed.

Karen McCurtain-Blair "Poppy Adobe" watercolor 22x30

Taos Artisans Gallery | 107 Bent St., Taos (575)758-1558 | karenmccurtainblair.com

Around Town Summer evenings are cool at 7,000 feet, and restaurant patios all over town are buzzing with laughter, music and clinking glassware. You might begin the evening at the popular Adobe Bar located inside The Historic Taos Inn. The two-story lobby bar is referred to as ‘the living room of Taos,’ where they serve legendary margaritas and local brews, and boast an award winning wine list.

The Kitchen Shop on Bent St. Featuring Taos Twist Flatware

Open 7 days a week 113 Bent St., Taos NM 87571

575-758-5435 ∙ taoscookery.com

The Love Apple is a favorite local eatery. Housed in a 100 year old rustic chapel, it has all the charm and whimsical grace of such a place with its crooked steeple, thick adobe walls and the pale blue shutters. In summer the chapel doors are wide open in the afternoon, , allowing the western sunset to spill into the room before the tall taper candles are lit. Owners Jennifer Hart and Andrea Meyer each had a vision of what they wanted and came together with different talents but with one goal in mind. “The short synopsis of what we do here at The Love Apple is all about the simple, old tenet - they really are what you eat, or philosophically speaking, how you choose to eat. We want people to feel energized and engaged, to be comfortable and surrounded with beauty, and to know that you are eating the highest quality food available, made with honesty.” Hart and Meyer pride themselves on serving nearly 100 % local food, the rustic menu includes a beautiful array of seasonal vegetables, beans and grains, as well as locally raised beef and pork.

La Tierra Mineral Gallery Where Art & Nature Unite

rare minerals, fossils, carvings, artisan jewelry and fetishes

485 Hwy 150, Arroyo Seco 575.776-5640 • taoscow.com

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Located in the John Dunn Shops 124K Bent Street, Taos, NM 87571 www.latierragallery.com (575) 758-0101

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

Even if you’re just visiting for a day or two, drive up to the Red Willow Farmers Market at the Taos Pueblo. Open Wednesdays from 2:00 pm - 6:00 pm and on Fridays, 1:00 pm - 5:00 pm, the Red Willow Growers Co-op operates the market and the intent is to restore the relationship of the Taos Pueblo people, the land and to revitalize old traditions of sustainability and community agriculture. Most everything is grown on the pueblo land. The Red Willow maintains year round greenhouses that are powered by renewable resources. They also provide educational opportunities for youth and a learning center for local farmers as well as a venue for Pueblo entrepreneurs. Locals and visitors alike love the European style Dragonfly Cafe & Bakery. In winter, guests cozy up to the fireplace while in summer, the tree and flower filled patio is beautiful with a bubbling fountain and gorgeous views. Owner Karen Todd, originally from Chicago, spent years traveling to learn about the ingredients and cuisine she serves in her 1920's bungalow style adobe café, which she opened 13 years ago this August. Todd, also a strong supporter of local growers, buys seasonally from growers, and has several of her own raised beds. She pickles and preserves as much as she can to use in the off-season. The restaurant is open for breakfast lunch and dinner, serving housemade granola, fresh pastries and gluten free specialties, hormone and antibiotic free meats. Taos today is a unique mixture of artists and writers; some famous and some struggling; Hispanics and Native Americans who can trace their heritage back for centuries; and new comers from all over the globe. It boasts some of the best skiing and fishing in North America, and draws new agers, young and retired skiers or high altitude outdoor enthusiasts, many of whom came to visit and never left for the same reasons people have been coming for centuries – this is a magical place, full of history and natural beauty - it reaches in and grabs your soul.

Taos Neighborhood Guide ACEQ

ACEQ – is a contemporary family-owned restaurant located in Arroyo Seco. We utilize the best in local, wild, and farm fresh ingredients. The menu features contemporary takes on old classics, house-made specialties, and craveable desserts that will change with the seasons. Dinner, Wed-Sat 5:30-9:30pm, Sunday brunch, 11am - 3pm. Arroyo Seco Plaza, 480 State Rd 150, Arroyo Seco, 575.776.0900 · aceqrestaurant.com

Coyote Moon

Visit the most colorful shop in Taos and see our wild array of Mexican masks, folkart. skeletons, devils and angels, psychedelic painted animals, beaded art from the renowned Huichol Indians, and silver jewelry of the Southwest's Native Americans. 120C Bent Street, 575.758.4437

Doc Martin’s, Taos Inn

Doc Martin’s Restaurant is a true Taos tradition, an acclaimed dining establishment located in a registered historic landmark. Executive Chef Zippy White specializes in fresh local food with a splash of the southwest, sourcing from regional farms and gardens. With over 400 wine selections, our world-class wine list has earned Wine Spectator’s “Best Of” Award of Excellence for twenty-one consecutive years. Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner, serving brunch on Saturday & Sunday. 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575.758.2233 · taosinn.com

Great Noodles

Marshall's Great Noodles Food Cart is located in the historic John Dunn Shops walkway. The eclectic menu derives from South Asia where noodle carts are a permanent fixture. Marshall offers a great variety of vegetarian and gluten free options. Besides the main menu, Marshall's Great Noodles also has an ever changing array of fantastic specials based on the local food that is in season in Taos. Food Cart located at the John Dunn Shops.

Karen McCurtain-Blair

Karen McCurtain-Blair is an artist and designer based in Taos, New Mexico. Karen has exhibited in the U.S. and abroad and her work is found in private collections internationally. View Karen's original watercolor paintings and prints online in her Originals & Prints gallery. Taos Artisan Gallery, 107 Bent St., 575.758.1558 · karenmccurtainblair.com

la tierra mineral gallery

La Tierra Mineral Gallery offers the finest collection of rare minerals, fossils, carvings, artisan jewelry and fetishes (Zuni and other artists) in Taos. For those interested in the metaphysical properties of the stones, we have massage wands, rune sets, pendulums, crystals, and books, (both reference & metaphysical). For the young rock hounds, we offer a large variety of books, maps, stones, fossils and arrowheads to make learning and collecting fun! Whether you are a serious collector, "rockaholic", or looking for a special gift, we will assist you in finding a beautiful piece of nature to take home with you! Open daily. 124K Bent Street, 575.758.0101 · latierragallery.com

Fair Trade & Handmade

216B Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos (575) 758-1256 • www.taosmoxie.com

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

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Taos Neighborhood Guide cont...

Regional & Organic Home Cooking

Moxie Moxie enables economic independence of impoverished artisans by purchasing inventory from organizations that are fully committed to the practice of fair trade principles. Through its retail sales, Moxie provides its owner with a source of sustainable income, a creative channel for generating handcrafts as well as a purposeful existence. Moxie specializes in new, unusual and unique original artwork, gifts, and fair trade items. Open 7 days a week. 216 B Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, 575.758.1256 · taosmoxie.com

Menu changes seasonally, with nightly specials highlighting peak of the season specialties.

shree yoga Shree Yoga Taos strives to create a safe, nurturing environment for people to gather and gain awareness through movement. We are rooted in the celebration of intrinsic goodness, and the awakened spirit of an alive and aligned body. 112 Camino de la Placita Suite C, 575.758.8014 shreeyogataos.com

Taos Cookery Taos Cookery has been “the kitchen shop” in Taos for over 25 years. On Bent Street, in the heart of downtown Taos, Taos Cookery is filled with all things kitchen.Taos Cookery has what you need to prepare all of your own delicacies! 10am -5:30pm 7 days a week. 113 Bent St., 575.758.5435 · taoscookery.com

Taos Cow Ice Cream Scoop Shop, Cafe and Deli In addition to our fresh, rBGH-free, all-natural super premium ice cream, we're proud to feature... locally roasted organic fair-trade coffee, fresh espresso drinks, homemade salads and soups, Boar's Head deli products, fresh-baked pastries, Odwalla juices, daily breakfast and lunch specials , a place to throw your birthday party...and so much more! Open every day from 7:00 am to 6:00 pm. 485 Hwy 150, Arroyo Seco, 575.776.5640 · taoscow.com

Taos Diner and Taos Diner II Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown and organic breakfast, lunch and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine. Many ingredients from local farms and ranches. Fair trade organic coffee, where the locals go! 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575.758.2374 Taos Diner II 216B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575.751.1989

taos inn Among Hotels and Inns throughout New Mexico, the Historic Taos Inn is legendary. Experience Southwestern charm and history in this quintessential New Mexico inn located in the heart of Taos' historic district. Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as "One of America's Great Inns," and listed on the National and New Mexico Registers of Historic Places. 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, New Mexico 87571, 575-758-2233, taosinn.com

The DRAGON FLY The Dragonfly uses the highest quality ingredients, procured locally and organically when available, and hormone and antibiotic free dairy and non-cured meats. Seasonal produce is picked fresh from the chef’s garden or produced by small, local growers and in the off-season, produce is preserved and pickled for year round use. 402 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-737-5859 · dragonflytaos.com

RESERVATIONS 575.751.0050 803 Paseo del Pueblo Norte ~ Taos Shree Yoga Taos strives to create a safe, nurturing environment for people to gather and gain awareness through movement. We are rooted in the celebration of intrinsic goodness, and the awakened spirit of an alive and aligned body.

shreeyoga 575.758.8014 shreeyogataos.com 112 Camino de la Placita Suite C . TAOS NM 87571

the gorge bar & grill A fun and casual restaurant, perfect for a delicious meal or cocktails and appetizers to top off the day. The menu is straightforward and yet eclectic, chock full of favorites with the special twist of The Gorge. Every dish on the menu is made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 East Taos Plaza Taos, 575-758-8866 · thegorgebarandgrill.com

The Love Apple The Love Apple is your local source for affordable, unpretentious, inventive food and wine. Our menu changes regularly, with nightly specials highlighting peak of the season ingredients. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, 5pm-9pm. Reservations recommended. 803 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575.751.0050 · theloveapple.net

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Arroyo Seco Plaza (480 State Rd 150)

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

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edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012

From homemade lavender sugar to smoked sea salts, we’ve been busy getting these classic German canning jars filled with our favorite ingredients.

WECK JARS!

Pick up a case of empty Weck jars and a copy of “Canning for a New Generation” at the Farm Shop and prepare for the harvest of a lifetime!

HISTORIC INN & ORGANIC FARM

4803 Rio Grande Blvd NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque www.lospoblanos.com 505-344-9297

Locally and regionally grown, organic produce, groceries and meats delivered to your door. Order online for delivery or pick up. SIGN UP NOW FOR YOUR WEEKLY CUSTOMIZED HARVEST BOX. WWW.SKARSGARDFARMS.COM ∙ (505) 681-4060

Formerly Los Poblanos Organics

PLANTS SOUTHWEST OF THE

Distributing our products via home/office delivery. Pick-up options in Los Alamos, Santa Fe, Placitas, Rio Rancho, Albuquerque, Las Cruces, and El Paso.

NCI

A • NEW

From Our Farm to Your Table

Fruit, Nut, & Berry Producers Herbs & Veggies in Season Non-GMO Open Pollinated Vegetable Seed Books on Planting, Preserving & Cooking and More! Los Ranchos de Albuquerque: 6680 4th St. NW | 505.344.8830 Santa Fe: 3095 Agua Fria | 505.438.8888 www.plantsofthesouthwest.com

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

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what’s fresh, what’s local All this and more, can be found at our New Mexico Farmers’ and Growers’ markets this summer. Don’t forget to bring your market bag!

veggies Arugula Asparagus Beans (purple, wax, green, string, snap, snow) Beets Bok Choy Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Corn Dandelion Eggplant Japanese Mustard Garlic Green Chile Greens Herbs Galore Kale Leeks Lettuces subscribe @ ediblesantafe.com

Mushrooms Mustard Greens Nopales Onions Peppers (A Rainbow!) Potatoes Pumpkins Quelitas Radishes Red Chile Salad Greens Shishito Peppers Spinach Sprouts and Microgreens Sugar Snap Peas Summer Squash Sweet Potatoes Swiss Chard Tomatoes Tomatillos Turnips Zucchini

fruit

Apples

Goat Cheeses and Milk

Apricots

Beef, Bison, Pork, Yak, Chicken, Ducks

Blackberries Chokecherries Currants Elderberries Figs Grapes Jujubes Melons Nectarines Peaches Pears Plums Pomegranates Prickly Pears

Chicken, Duck and Turkey Eggs Jams Pecans, Pinon, Pistachios Chicos, Dried Beans, Cornmeal Chile Powders, Dried Chiles, Ristras Teas Baked Goods Honey and Jams Chutneys, Mustards and Salsas Lavender Plants

Raspberries Rhubarb Watermelons

Photo by Carole Topalian edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012

Raspberry Vinaigrette Photo by Stephanie Cameron

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what’s fresh, what’s local: raspberries According to research conducted in the Netherlands, subsequently published in the journal Biofactors, the antioxidant levels in raspberries is particularly high, clocking in at 50% higher than strawberries (a formidable antioxidant powerhouse themselves), up to three times higher than kiwifruit, and ten times higher than lycopenerich tomatoes. In New Mexico, late summer brings the raspberries and you will find red, golden, and black raspberries at the markets. Rich in vitamin C, raspberries can top off dishes from breakfast cereals to dinner salads. Store, uncovered, in the refrigerator in a layer on a paper-towel-lined plate for 2 to 3 days. Rinse just before using.

easy raspberry vinaigrette Make your salad sing with a delightful dressing everyone will enjoy. The nice thing about handmade vinaigrettes is they come together in seconds. The bonus is that they are extremely economical. If you have a leak-proof jar, carafe, cruet, squeeze bottle or other container, you can add all of the ingredients and shake. You can also put a vinaigrette together with just a bowl and a whisk. The trick is to create an emulsion, a temporary blend of oil and vinegar. As long as you create motion, whether by shaking or whisking, the two will come together splendidly. You can use raspberry preserves if you like the big chunks of fruit, or any jelly, jam or preserve will do, and you can change the flavors as often as you like. Apricot is one of my favorites.

A classic slump, also called a grunt - is a dumpling-topped fruit dessert that's cooked on the stove. Use any stone fruit or berry – or any combination of the two. Simmer the fruit with a little sugar and liquid, then drop dollops of dumpling batter to the simmering fruit to steam in the berry juice. Serve in a bowl with a dumpling, and a big scoop of vanilla ice cream. 2 T. sugar 1/4 t. ground cinnamon 1 C. all-purpose flour 1 1/2 t. baking powder Pinch salt 1/4 t. ground ginger 2 T. sugar 1/3 C. whole milk, room temperature 2 T. unsalted butter, cold 6 C. raspberries (or mixed berries and stone fruits - about 2 pints total) 1/2 C. sugar Pinch of salt ½ t. ground cinnamon 2 T. fresh lemon juice 2 T. water Heavy cream, for drizzling Stir together 2 tablespoons sugar and 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon in a small bowl; set aside. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, ginger and sugar. Cut the butter into small cubes and add to the flour. Using a pastry cutter or two knives, cut the butter into the flour until the flour resembles a coarse meal. Add the milk all at once and stir until the flour is just moistened. Handling the dough as little as possible, form into a ball. Set aside.

2 T. raspberry preserves (we like Heidi's raspberry jam) 2 T. red wine vinegar ⅓ C. good olive oil Salt and pepper to taste If shaking, combine all ingredients together and shake. If whisking, combine preserves and vinegar. While whisking, slowly pour olive oil into mixture. Once an emulsion is created, add salt and pepper to taste.

Gently fold together the raspberries, lemon juice, ¾ cup of sugar, a pinch of salt, cinnamon, and 2 tablespoons water in a large skillet. Cover, and bring to a low boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Drop 8 large dollops of the flour and milk batter on top of berry mixture using 2 spoons, spacing them evenly. Sprinkle dumplings with the cinnamon-sugar mixture. Cover the pan and reduce heat to medium, cook without peeking for at least 15 minutes, you may need up to 25 before the dumplings are done. Cook until the dumplings are cooked through and juices are bubbling. Serve warm, drizzled with cream or a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Recipe from Chris Kohatsu's cookbook "Food With My Friends", photographed by Stephanie Cameron. www.chriskohatsu.com

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Raspberry Slump

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

do it yourself

Jam Making 101 By Sherri Brooks Vinton

Gorgeous, fresh, sexy fruit—when the first waves of succulent gems start coming off the fields, trees and vines it sets me into a bit of a frenzy. I ache at the thought of those luscious little tidbits slipping through my fingers until next season. So I squirrel them away by cooking them down into sweet, seductive jams that perfume my kitchen as they cook and fill my pantry with memories of local farms and sunny days. Jam making is really all about pectin: the magical, naturally occurring compound that gives jelled spreads their unctuous texture. Some fruits, such as rhubarb and apricots, have very little of it and therefore benefit from a boost of packaged pectin to achieve the desired texture. These added-pectin spreads, also called quick jams, have a bright, fruit-forward flavor. Because the added pectin jells them instantly, they are very speedy to make. The strong jelling ability of added pectin also means that you can make sweet spreads out of unusual candidates for the jam pot: vegetables such as chilies are delicious and even liquids such as wine and herbal infusions taste fantastic given this treatment. Long-cooking jams, also called classic jams, rely solely on the pectin available in the fruit. Most often they are reserved for high-pectin fruits such as tart apples, cranberries and citrus that, when combined with sugar and lemon juice and given sufficient time on the stove, jell quite nicely on their own. But I have made classic jams (albeit somewhat loosely set ones) out of low-pectin fruit, too. The long cooking process of classic jams gives the spread a rich, deep flavor and silky texture that is worth the wait. Whether you are making quick or long-cooking jams, it is always best to use fresh fruit grown as close to your home as possible. Avoid overripe produce and “seconds.” Such fruit will have lost much of its natural pectin with age and may carry a bacterial load that is too high for the process. Similarly, fruit that is shipped a great distance runs the risk of harboring an increased number of contaminants. Making jam is a terrific way to preserve gorgeous, seasonal fruits. Source them from your regional farmers and you will be preserving local agriculture, too.

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

Basic Jam Recipe Give it a go. Try this basic jam recipe. It may look like a shocking amount of sugar, but it is necessary to achieve a jell and its ability to toughen the fruit can help you control the texture of the jam. 2 pounds fruit (such as strawberries, peaches, blueberries, plums and/or cherries, stemmed, pitted and peeled as necessary 4 C. sugar ¼ C. lemon juice Combine the ingredients according to the texture you want: For a smooth jam, cook the fruit with ¼ cup of water and then add the sugar and lemon juice. For a chunkier result, toss together the night before cooking. The fruit will maintain its shape during the process. Add all to the pot and cook immediately for some large bits of fruit. Once you have the fruit, sugar and acid in the pot you will need to cook it down over medium heat, stirring constantly, until you reach the jell stage. You will know you are getting close when the bubbles in the pot get big and lazy. Then there are three tests you can do—use all three to get jam that is just right: 1. Temperature—jam reaches jell stage at 220° F., so dunk a candy thermometer down into the pot. Keep in mind, however, that the temperature may vary throughout the jam pot so be sure to stir constantly to get a good measurement. 2. Sheeting—Lift a jam-coated wooden spoon out of the pot sideways. When the jam is thin, it will dribble off in a stream. As it thickens, it will come off in drips. When it reaches the jell stage, the jam will come off in sheets—two drops will unite and fall in the pot as one. 3. Freezer—A few drops of jam on a frozen plate or the bottom of an ice cream container will wrinkle when you push the cooled puddle with your finger. Once you have reached the jell stage, remove the jam from the heat and stir for about five minutes, to release trapped air. Refrigerate, covered, for up to three weeks or can, using the boilingwater method, and store for up to one year.

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edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012

cocktail culture

Just Add Fruit By Chris Milligan • Photos by Stephanie Cameron

We are very fortunate in Santa Fe to have one of the top farmer’s markets in the country along with several other specialty grocery stores, and co-ops that offer local and organic goods for our culinary indulgences. Who else can support two Whole Foods within two blocks? Using local ingredients in drinks adds a little regional flair when entertaining out of town guests - let’s take the basic margarita as our starting point. One of my favorite summer sippers is a Mojito, and here again there are endless variations of flavors you can add. My particular favorite is apricot, which are abundant this summer. Using premade bottled cocktail mixers is tantamount to a TV dinner: cheap, fast and easy. It’s what Dale Degroff (aka King Cocktail) calls ‘Kool-Aid Mixology’. But if we care about what we put in our bodies and take the time to choose local and fresh ingredients, our drinks will be more enjoyable and pleasing.

Margarita 1 ½ oz. blanco tequila ¾ oz. orange liqueur (I like Dekuyper O3) ¾ oz. fresh squeezed lime juice Put all ingredients in a mixing glass with ice and shake for 10-12 seconds. Strain into an ice filled glass rimmed with salt (optional) and garnish with a lime wedge. See how easy that is? Hang on a second! Before you make your margarita, take a look in your fridge and see what lovely fruits you may have from the market. Apples? Berries? Cucumber? Just chop up ¼ cup and muddle them with the other ingredients to make a fine fresh fruit variation, the possibilities are endless!

Apricot Mojito 10 fresh picked or organic mint leaves 1 apricot halved and pitted ½ oz. fresh lime juice ½ oz. simple syrup* 1 ½ oz. Don Q Cristal Rum** 2 oz. San Pellegrino

As New Mexicans, we are very fortunate to have such a unique cuisine, and crossing these local ingredients into our drinks just makes us more special. Cheers! Chris Milligan, aka The Santa Fe Barman can be found practicing the art and craft of mixology at the Secreto Lounge at the historic Hotel St Francis in Santa Fe.

Muddle mint, limes juice, and syrup in the bottom of a 12oz. tumbler or Collins glass. Add rum and ice. Top with the bubbly water then gently stir and pull the mint up and throughout the drink. Garnish with a lime wheel. *Simple Syrup: in a medium sauce pan heat ½ lb. organic sugar with 8 oz. of filtered water. Bring to a boil and let cool. Place in an airtight glass jar and refrigerate for up to 7 days. ** Don Q Rums are made by Destileria Serralles in Puerto Rico which is the only 100% sustainable distillery in the world.

Gypsy Rose Cocktail 4 raspberries 1/2 oz. lemon juice 1/2 oz. honey syrup 1 1/2 oz. spiced rum 1/2 oz. ginger liqueur 2 dashes autumn bitters Muddle raspberries, lemon and honey in a mixing glass. Add all other ingredients and shake with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a lemon twist.

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

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Chris Milligan

Mango Tango

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Photo by Erin Seavey

Margarita with Raspberries

edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012

Watermelon Salad

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cooking fresh

Taste of Summer By Kate Manchester • Photos by Stephanie Cameron

New Mexico food gets a lot of press, and is an iconic part of our state's identity. Even as a magazine that focuses solely on the food that is grown and produced here – as a rule we haven’t concentrated on the iconic chile-laced cuisine that we are so well known for. We’ve focused instead on all of what’s grown here - which is a lot when you consider we live a mile above sea level, in the desert, and receive less than 13-inches of rain on any given year. There is an amazing variety of delicious fruits and foofs grown here, fuzzy apricots, pomegranates and figs, the vegetable list is even longer and more complex – not bad

for the desert. Chiles will always be a seasonal food, eaten in copious amounts throughout the fall, then frozen or dried for occasional use throughout the year.

WATERMELON SALAD

Raw Summer Tomato Sauce

Serves 4-6

This is a raw, uncooked sauce which works well with Angel Hair or Fusili. We make it once a week from July to September when the tomatoes are in their prime.

My husband and I travelled to San Diego and ate at a fabulous restaurant called Urban Solace. They served this watermelon salad which was a standout. It’s become part of our regular repertoire, and a perfect potluck picnic dish, but do make as close to serving as possible. Vinaigrette 1/4 C. red wine vinegar 1 t. kosher salt 1/4 t. freshly ground black pepper 1/2 C. extra-virgin olive oil Salad 1 small cucumber, peeled 1/4 small red onion 3 ripe tomatoes, cut into bite-size chunks 3-4 C. watermelon, cut into bite sized chunks 1 red bell pepper, cut into bite-size chunks 7 oz. feta cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 C. fresh mint leaves, coarsely chopped or cut into chiffonade 3 T. toasted pine nuts or toasted, shelled sunflower seeds

In our kitchen now, we are cooking lots of ‘summer only’ dishes as the variety of what’s available at the markets is at its peak. We are also putting up like crazy so we’ll have something to remind us of summer in a few short months. Here are a few of our go-to recipes that scream summer, that should be eaten only in summer – when ingredients are at their absolute peak of perfection.

1 clove garlic, cut in half 2 ½ to 3 lbs. assorted, ripe tomatoes (mixing and matching is great, you can use cherries, sungolds, red, yellow, etc.) unpeeled, unseeded, cut into 1/4-inch dice 1 C. loosely packed fresh green or purple basil leaves, coarsely chopped or torn ¼ C. extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp. salt freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 pound fusilli or angel hair pasta 6 quarts boiling salted water 1/2 to 1 C. freshly grated aged Pecorino Romano cheese Rub a pasta serving bowl with the cut side of the garlic, then mince the garlic and add to the bowl. Add the tomatoes, basil, oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Let stand at room temperature for up to 4 hours.

Whisk the vinegar, salt and pepper in a medium bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in the oil to blend well. Set aside.

Cook the pasta until al dente, tender yet firm to the bite. Drain in a colander and immediately turn into the pasta bowl, tossing all the ingredients together. Taste for seasoning and serve. Top with parmesan and serve immediately, with the garlic basil bread below.

Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise, then, using a spoon, scrape out the seeds. Cut the cucumber halves crosswise into half-inch thick, half-moon slices. Use a mandolin or sharp knife to cut the onion into paper-thin slices. Toss the sliced cucumber, onion, tomatoes, watermelon, bell pepper, feta, mint and nuts in a large bowl with just enough vinaigrette to coat. Serve immediately.

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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

GARLIC BASIL BREAD Serves 6-8 Make this ahead, wrap in foil and pop in the oven or on a hot grill just before serving, use plenty of purple and green basil.

Gradually add the beaten egg and mix thoroughly before stirring in the grated zucchini.

1 loaf of Ciabatta or French baguette ½ stick butter, room temperature 2 T. olive oil 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 scallion onion, chopped 1 ½ C. fresh basil leaves, chopped Salt and pepper Optional - 1-2 C. shredded Parmesan cheese

Heat a few tablespoons of oil in a large frying pan and drop heaping spoonfuls of the mixture into the hot oil, flattening the fritters down with the back of the spoon as you go. Cook for about 2 minutes each side until golden, and then transfer to a couple of waiting plates.

In a small bowl, mash the butter, olive oil, garlic and scallion together with fork. Slice the loaf lengthwise and open to flatten, and slather the butter mixture over the entire interior surface of the bread. Sprinkle the chopped basil over the buttered bread, and sprinkle lightly with a few pinches of salt and pepper. Scatter the parmesan over the top if you are using, then close the buttered sides together. Wrap the loaf in foil, and place on a hot grill or in a 400 degree oven for about 10 minutes. Unwrap bread, slice and serve immediately.

ZUCCHINI FRITTERS Makes about 25 These are Nigella Lawson’s Zucchini Fritters, and they are the best I’ve ever had. You can use two or three zucchini and handfuls of fresh mint and parsley from the garden, and don’t skimp on the scallions or lime. We love having just these for dinner - although they are also terrific served as an appetizer with cocktails. The trick to great results with these is to remove as much liquid as you can from the grated zucchini before you mix in the other ingredients, and to cook them immediately. 3-4 small to medium zucchini 6-8 scallions, chopped, whites and green parts 9 ounces feta cheese ½ C. fresh parsley, chopped 1 to 1 ½ C. fresh mint, chopped, plus extra to sprinkle over at the end 1 T. dried mint 1 t. paprika 1 C. all-purpose flour 1 t. salt A few twists of freshly ground black pepper 3 eggs, beaten Safflower or olive oil for frying 3–4 limes Coarsely grate the zucchini with either the grating blade in the food processor or use a box grater, use the largest holes to grate the zucchini. Spread the grated zucchini out on one or two cotton dish towels and leave for about 20 minutes to soak up any liquid. After about 20 minutes, roll up the zucchini in the towels and twist the ends to squeeze out as much liquid as possible.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012

Put the chopped scallions in a bowl and crumble in the feta. Stir in the chopped parsley and mint, along with the dried mint and paprika. Add the flour and season well with salt and pepper.

Cut your limes into eighths and sprinkle more chopped mint over the fritters, and eat them spritzed with lime juice as you go.

CLAFOUTIS Serves 6-8 This is one of those classic go-to desserts; it’s quick and easy to throw together if you’ve got last minute company. Cherries or other stone fruits like plums, peaches or nectarines all will provide delicious results. You can use a glass baking dish or a cast iron skillet, both work equally well. I’ve always consulted Julia Child’s recipe as my base, but have added a little spike of brandy, which works with the fruit but is totally optional. 3C. of fruit – either : pitted black or Rainier cherries, or black plums, peaches or nectarines, pitted, sliced 2 T. of brandy 1 T. of sugar 1 1/4 C. milk 1/3 C. sugar 3 eggs 1 T. vanilla 1/8 t. salt 1/2 C. flour 3 C. cherries, pitted 1/3 C. sugar powdered sugar Place cut fruit in a bowl, and toss with the brandy and tablespoon of sugar, let sit for 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 400ºF, and butter a 12-inch cast iron skillet or a 12-inch glass pie plate or 2-quart glass baking dish. Using a slotted spoon, toss the fruit into the prepared baking dish and spread out evenly. Pour the leftover juices into a blender, add the milk, sugar, eggs, vanilla, salt and flour. Blend briefly until all of the ingredients are combined, and pour over the fruit. Bake for about 35 minutes, the clafoutis is done when puffed and brown and a toothpick or knife plunged in the center comes out clean. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, serve warm.

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SLOW ROASTED TOMATOES

RAW BEET, DILL & MUSTARD SEED SALAD

As delicious as fresh tomatoes are at their peak right now, these slow roasted tomatoes are out of this world, and best made with the ripest, sweetest tomatoes possible, big or small. These will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for nearly two weeks, you can serve on salads, top a slice of garlic rubbed grilled baguette, or with fresh mozzarella.

There always seem to be too many beets in the summer, and it’s too hot to cook. This salad is gorgeous, fresh, super healthy, and easy with a food processor.

Preheat oven to 200°F with racks in upper and lower thirds. 4 pounds plum tomatoes or other tomato, halved lengthwise 6 garlic cloves, minced 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Put tomatoes, cut side up, in 2 large 4-sided sheet pans. Combine garlic and oil and spoon over tomatoes. Season tomatoes with salt and pepper and roast in oven 6 to 8 hours. The tomatoes will be greatly reduced in size but still moist. Cool, and drizzle with a little olive oil before storing for up to two weeks.

RED FRUIT SOUP This is spectacular, plain and simple. It’s a fantastic no-fat dessert on its own, but is equally spectacular spooned over pound cake or warm short cake biscuits with a dollop of fresh whipped cream. You will pit the cherries first – but save the pits and stems to make a ‘stock’.

1/3 C. chopped, fresh dill 3 T. chopped fresh mint 2-4 raw beets Juice of 1/2 lemon Juice of ½ orange 2 T. grated orange peel 2 T. extra virgin olive oil 2 T. mustard seeds Fit the julienne or grater disc for your food processor. Wear rubber gloves to peel the beets, then cut in half so it fits down the funnel. Turn the grated beet into a bowl and toss with the dill and mint until well mixed together. Squeeze the lemon and orange juice over, add the orange peel, drizzle in the olive oil and toss again. Toss the mustard seeds for a couple of minutes in a heavy-bottomed frying pan to toast. Add the mustard to the salad and toss for a final time. This salad gets better as it sits, and should sit for at least an hour at room temperature before serving.

½ lb. red or Rainier cherries, save stems ½ C. sugar 1 C. water 2 C. strawberries, halved or quartered if large 1 C. raspberries 1 C. blueberries 1 Lemon, juiced ½ C. fresh mint, chopped Pit the cherries with a pitter, or by pressing on them with the flat of a chef’s knife against the cutting board til they open up, remove the pit and place cherries in a bowl. Toss pits and stems into a heavy bottomed small saucepan, add the sugar, and one cup of water. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat to cool, then strain the pits and stems out of the juice and return the liquid to the saucepan. Add the cherries to the saucepan and liquid, and simmer gently for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool completely. The cherries can be refrigerated overnight at this point, or for several hours. Place all the berries in a shallow bowl, and pour the cold cherries and juice over them. Drizzle about two tablespoons of lemon juice over the top, and sprinkle with fresh mint. The mixture will get soupier the longer it sits as the berries will release their juices. Offer small bowls to eat as is, or spoon over slices of pound cake or biscuits. Slow Roasted Tomatoes Photo by Stephanie Cameron

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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

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DEBORAH MADISON’S PEACH (OR PLUM and NECTARINE) UPSIDE DOWN CAKE What to do with too much fruit again, a wonderful summertime dilemma. The key with any upside down cake is thinking through the end result. Fruit 4 T. (1/2 stick) butter ½ C. plus 2 T. light brown sugar 4-6 peaches, or nectarines, or mixture of peaches, plums or nectarines Cake 8 T. (1 stick) cold unsalted butter 1 C. light brown sugar Grated zest of one orange 1 T. vanilla extract ¼ t. almond extract 2 eggs 7/8 C. cake or AP flour ½ C. corn flour ½ C. whole wheat pastry flour 1 t. baking powder 1 t. baking soda ½ t. salt ½ C. buttermilk

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Preheat oven to 375º F. Melt the butter is a 10-inch cast iron skillet over low heat. Brush some of it around the sides, then sprinkle over the sugar. Leave on medium heat for 3 minutes, do not stir, then remove from heat. Slice and pit the fruits. Place the largest slices around the edge of the pan, curved side facing down, snuggling the fruit close together or even overlapping. Going in the opposite direction, make another ring of sliced fruits just inside the first. Continue the circles of fruit, going in opposite directions, until the bottom of the pan is completely covered. To make the cake, cream the butter and sugar in a standing mixer until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the zest, vanilla and almond extracts, then the eggs, one at a time, beating til smooth. Combine the flours, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a separate bowl. Add this dry mixture, in thirds, to the butter mixture, alternating with a little buttermilk, with the mixer on low speed. Remove the bowl and use a wide rubber scraper to make sure all the flour is incorporated and batter is smooth. Spread the batter evenly over the fruit with a rubber spatula and set the skillet in the center of the oven. Bake until golden, firm, and beginning to pull away from the sides of the pan, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from the oven. Carefully run a knife around the edge of the pan to loosen the cake, then set a serving plate over the pan, grasp the two together and invert. Lift off the pan. If any of the fruits have stuck to the pan, peel them off and place them on the cake. Serve the cake warm, or at room temperature.

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

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delicious new mexico

Fruit in the Desert Urban Orchards

By Erin Seavy · Photo by Caitlyn Ottinger The harvest is plentiful this summer. You can tell it’s pickin’ time when the tree limbs bow toward the ground, but this year, they are breaking from the weight of their bounty. One usually has to seek out fruit in the desert, but for Dominique Dupont, founder of Urban Orchards, fruit is all she sees – often pulling to the side of the road to discover new harvesting grounds. Dupont’s knack for foraging started young – “I have memories of my mom pulling a ‘pick and run’ at a neighbor’s pear and apricot trees after dark. The gatherer gene certainly runs deep!” It doesn’t skip a generation either, as her grandmother is known to bring vigor to blueberry picking in the forests of Maine. Fate has a way of weaving people together, and as such, it gave Dupont a mother-in-law with the same passion for picking. Dupont’s husband recounts being nudged to nearby gardens at a young age to gather baskets of fallen fruit from even “the gnarliest of trees.” I met Dupont at the South Valley kitchen she and her husband rent out to run their canning business. The start-up is just a year old, but the Urban Orchard concept has been brewing within Dupont for quite some time. An Albuquerque native, Dupont understands the importance of harboring the fruit that the Land of Enchantment bears, and she has set out to preserve cherries, white nectarines, apricots, peaches and the like – all local and grown without chemicals. Dupont noticed that so much goes to waste, so she created a sustainable system. For just $25 a year, you can become an Urban Orchards member. All you need is one tree and Dupont and her crew will examine the fruit, making sure it is edible, and once ripe, they will pick, clean, store and eventually transform it into finger-licking jams and sauces. The final product showcases the nuances of the fruit itself, only deepening its flavor and sweetness with a touch of added sugar. Ten percent of a given tree’s bounty will be returned to the owner in canned form, and Urban Orchards sells the rest. After our kitchen tour, we drove to a member orchard in the valley, and wading through the high July grasses, examined the fruit on the heavy trees. Dupont showed me how to find the ready-to-eat gems. I sank my teeth into the fuzzy flesh of a ripe, hand-picked peach, and feeling the juice run down my chin, I had a small, sweet taste of the joys of living off the land. Even the desert, behind its dust-colored façade has a lot to give. Dominique Dupont lives with her husband in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Their products can be found at farmer’s markets and they are working diligently to get Urban Orchards on the shelves of local grocery stores. If you have a tree in need of harvesting, let them know through the “Contact” section of their website: www.uorchards.com.

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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

memoir

Swimming Upstream

Photo © Oleg Zhukov - Fotolia.com

By Elizabeth Grant Thomas

Whenever my dad visits from Seattle, where I grew up, he always brings a souvenir from home. Sometimes it’s a familiar yellow bag of Snoqualmie Falls Lodge oatmeal, a package of Fisher scone mix, or Ivar’s clam chowder, but last August he decided to bring a fresh salmon. Along with the stark absence of heavily wooded backyards and waterways crisscrossing the city, the paucity of fresh-caught seafood makes me feel like a fish out of water here in the high desert, and my dad thought it would be fun to provide the novelty of a salmon dinner. Hours of research were logged in an attempt to discern the best way to transport the fish, including protracted calls to Southwest Airlines, and in the end he packed the salmon between layers of dry ice and newspaper in a cooler that, upon our closer inspection, turned out to be a Rubbermaid storage bin. But it was clear how proud he was of his ingenious solution when he reached into the nest of newspapers

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

and pulled a whole salmon out by the tail. That was the first problem. When my dad went to buy the fish on the morning of his flight no one was available to filet it, so he was forced to purchase it whole. I nervously eyed the charcoal-colored fish that my dad had slapped onto a cutting board. “Have you ever fileted a fish before? Because I haven’t,” I quickly added. “I used to do it all the time, when I went fishing with your grandpa,” he said, “but that was 45 years ago.” Hunched over the computer, we did what any modern home cook would do in the same situation: we began watching YouTube videos, which made the process look simple enough. Standing at the counter in his undershirt and Wrangler jeans, my dad began making confident cuts, starting at the tail. Except the tail didn’t easily fall away from the body with the quick, dramatic slash of the

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razor-sharp knife like the video had shown. Instead, it sloughed off in ragged pieces by way of the halting, sawing motion of my inadequate cutlery.

Hunched over the computer, we did what any modern home cook would do in the same situation: we began watching YouTube videos, which made the process look simple enough. For the next hour my dad painstakingly dissected the fish. Sometimes his sure cuts led to beautiful filets; other times he wasn’t so lucky. He sent me running to the bathroom to procure tweezers to remove the delicatelooking pin bones, which, in fact, proved to be pernicious claws that clung to the bright pink flesh with a death grip. While he played the role of butcher I turned my attention to my well-worn copy of Cook’s Illustrated, searching for the best way to prepare the fish. I don’t regularly cook seafood at home and felt woefully out of my depth; this doorstopsized cookbook served as a culinary security blanket. But the recipes were involved and complicated, and when I ran a few by my dad he said, “Why don’t we just grill it with some lemon slices on top?” Obviously too easy of a solution, I countered, “But I don’t know how long to cook it for, or at what temperature.” Soon he had my uncle Dave on the phone, a seasoned griller of salmon, who provided simple, if unexacting, instructions on cooking the fish: heat the grill, place the fish on the grates, and cook until opaque in the middle. It dawned on me that I had never prepared a meal with my dad before, and the differences in our personalities were made manifest here: he flying by the seat of his pants, me holding on for dear life like those pin bones. This was the provenance of my mother, our emotional fulcrum, who was always supremely confident in the kitchen. At a time like this we would have turned to her for balance and guidance, and she would have known exactly

what to do. She would have quickly figured out how to deftly filet a fish, whipped up the perfect dressing, and intuitively known exactly how the fish should have been cooked. Instead, we did what we’ve done every day since she died 10 years ago, both inside and outside the kitchen, from our private corners of the world. We bumbled our way through. As if on cue, the skies opened up as soon as my dad placed the fish on the grill, a typical late-summer monsoon casting sheets of rain on the barbecue’s lid, sending it hissing and steaming. I retreated to the house to prepare the rice, watching my dad tend to the fish from the foggy kitchen window, jocular and confident with the guests we had assembled for our modest dinner party, wielding the long-handled spatula with panache. His muffled voice, recounting our travails that afternoon, floated through the open screen door. Soon my dad was proudly making his way to the dining room table with a beautiful platter of perfectly-cooked salmon, which, at his prompting, I served only with simple lemon wedges. Everyone agreed it was one of the best salmons they had ever tasted. I’d like to think that my mother’s steady hand would have guided us as we stumbled our way through the kitchen, but the truth is, had she been around, neither of us would have been there to begin with. Both of us would have gladly let her take the reins, keeping us in our own, safe corners. Now we were forced out of our comfort zones into uncharted territory, on shaky – but equal – footing, and together we built something. Our familiar personas sloughed away, reducing us to nothing more than a dad and his daughter, bumbling their way through the kitchen, bumbling their way through life. Just like all of us. It doesn’t seem like much, my dad and I making a simple supper together. But when I think back to that steamy August night I can’t help but wonder if my mother’s sure hand wasn’t there after all, bringing us closer, ushering in a new chapter in this story we are writing together.

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Elizabeth Grant Thomas is a nonfiction writer who contributes regularly to Edible Santa Fe. She can be found every other Tuesday at ediblesantafe.com, where she chronicles her family’s journey “back to the table,” on Twitter @egrantthomas, or at her website, elizabethgrantthomas.com.

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Agri-Cultura

Farm to Restaurant Getting Local onto Our Plates photos by sergio salvador

Chef Patrick Gharrity, La Casa Sena Cherie Austin and Chef Kaainoa Ravey, Farm & Table

Chef Myles Lucero, Savoy

Chef Matt Yohalem, Il Piatto, and Farmer Matt Romero

edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012

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Jason Greene, The Grove Cafe & Market

Rick Murphy, Sol Harvest Farms

George Gundrey, Atrisco Restaurant

Chef Jennifer James & Nelle Bauer Maria Bustamante, Treehouse Bakery

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edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012

Farm to Restaurant: The Real Costs By Kate Manchester • Photo by Sergio Salvador

The Early Days Roland Richter came from a family of wonderful cooks who didn’t frequent restaurants – the food they cooked at home was always much better. Born and raised in Germany, Richter realized early on that as a chef he would be able to travel freely outside of his country to gain the knowledge needed for his craft. Already bitten with the travel bug and a love of good food, Roland decided at the age of fourteen that he would become a chef. Fast forward two continents, several countries and now a classically trained chef with years of experience running his own restaurants, Roland and his wife Sheila find themselves in Santa Fe in 1990 – they came for the sunshine, and felt they might ‘slow down’ a bit. Their first endeavor in Santa Fe was Pizza Etc. which he opened in 1995. He and Sheila couldn’t find a good pizza in Santa Fe or New

Vinaigrette owner Erin Wade

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

Mexico for that matter, and decided they would be the ones to bring it. True to his passion and roots as a European classically trained chef, Richter couldn’t help sourcing the absolute freshest, local ingredients for his pizzas. He sought out Elizabeth Berry in Abiquiu and bought her gourmet vegetables, and shopped the Santa Fe Farmers market weekly. At that time the market consisted of 18 trucks in the Sanbusco parking lot, but none of the farmers had enough produce to supply a restaurant at that time, and prices were high. In 1996 Roland met and began buying tomatoes from Dave Fresquez of Monte Vista Farms, along with basil when both were in season. “Dave brought us these gorgeous heirlooms in different shapes and colors, and we started telling stories about the tomatoes, they had names like Stars of the Opera and we started advertising our business and talking about the different varieties of tomatoes we were using – our customers went nuts!” says Richter. It wasn’t long before Richter was buying all he could get his hands on from local farmers, and letting them know that

Roland Richter, Joe's Dining

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if they didn’t sell it at the market, he would take it. Roland and Sheila were so successful at creating demand for the local produce, they soon found themselves in the position of having to explain to customers why they couldn’t have fresh tomatoes in winter months or anytime outside of the growing season. Their Margherita pizza used only fresh local tomatoes, that were soil grown and sun-ripened and they decided to offer it only during the short tomato season. Once tomatoes were finished for the season, it was time for Richter’s Fiesta pizza, topped with autumn’s abundant roasted chiles, a nod to Southwest cuisine that made sense to a chef accustomed to eating seasonally. Richter however, found the extreme seasonality challenging, “Coming from Toronto, very good quality food was available year round, here I could see cows everywhere but couldn’t get local beef, and buying from the farmers was, and still is expensive. Many chefs are ‘hired hands’ “ states Richter, meaning they don’t have a stake in the game if they don’t own the restaurant. Richter opened Joe’s in 2002, he serves a variety of dishes, many sourced locally, that range from lamb, beef and bison dishes and burgers all local and grass-finished house-smoked beef brisket to grass-fed liver and onions to house made (desserts and pastries) pastas.

The Supply Side Patrick Staib and Henry Rael, who collaborated with South Valley farmers and community organizations to form the Agri-Cultura Network (ACN) in Albuquerque, agree with Richter’s sentiments. ACN was founded by La Plazita Institute, E-merging Communities, and Valle Encantado, which worked with Don Bustos and the American Friends Service Committee (AFSC) New Mexico as part of a three-year grant to stimulate a local agriculture industry in central New Mexico. The program provided hands-on farmer-to-farmer training, infrastructure, materials, marketing, and network development to support local growers for year-round production. The network has emerged as a strong and vibrant community resource that has produced a direct sales channel for farmers and generated jobs and income for smallscale growers while providing fresh, local produce for the Albuquerque

market. The ACN collaborative is specifically geared towards smallscale growers farming on 1 to 5 acres, providing marketing, sales, fulfillment and invoicing services. Currently the Agri-Cultura Network provides wholesale salad mix and other greens on a year-round basis to restaurants, while providing artisanal produce on a seasonal basis. The greens business, according to Rael, is in a ‘pilot phase’ to see if the network can perfect a system of both growing and processing greens on a scale that meets restaurant’s needs, while also selling to the community. The collaborative has been able to cultivate enough farmers to provide salad greens year round to a limited number of area restaurants and the Albuquerque Public School system, but at the current sales volume, has maintained a $5.00 per pound price to remain profitable. A key aim of the collaborative is for their farmers to be able to make an honest living, with the real cost of production driving the $5.00 price point. Patrick Staib, whose prior experience working with coffee farmer collaboratives in Nicaragua believes that building local capacity – that is, local farmers producing quality produce on small plots—is a more sustainable model than the larger industrial farming being done in the US today. Like Richter – Rael and Staib believe it will take a decade or so for prices to stabilize for fresh, locally produced food. If Agri-Cultura can help cultivate a vibrant, small, local farmer network to increase their capacity and quality, that the prices will go down while the quality of life for the farmers – and the community – will go up. Staib also believes that it requires a community to support a price point for this to happen. So for now, they are holding steady at their wholesale price of $5 a pound in the belief that there is enough consumer demand and appreciation for local food that both the restaurants and the consumers are willing to pay more for it. In the meantime, restaurants can buy organic California salad mix from commercial restaurant suppliers for $2.50 - $3.00 a pound. Roland Richter agrees. “Buying from the commercial restaurant suppliers is easy, and may be required for many chefs on tight budgets or working in corporate environments. But this is my home, and I want

Agri-Cultura

Last Call owner Luis Valdevinos

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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

to see farmers prosper. If I help make them profitable, they’ll grow more and hopefully prices will come down a little. Now we are seeing more availability year round – we can get salad greens locally all year, but the prices are often prohibitive and you can get greens for half the price from a commercial restaurant distributor.” Richter thinks that it will take a decade of local farmers growing, scaling operations and selling to restaurants to see prices drop. He has seen the quality of food produced locally steadily increase, and there is more competition which helps a little with high prices, and New Mexico farmers now have the capacity to grow year round. Richter will spent more than $100,000 buying local food this year alone, meat, eggs, dairy, produce, flour, fruit, veggies condiments. Chefs can buy organic salad mix from commercial restaurant suppliers for $2.50 a pound. Commercial mozzarella is $2.50 a pound but Richter makes his own from curd from a local dairy, at nearly double the cost. Richter believes that if he ordered all of his menu ingredients from a commercial supplier he could cut his overall costs by about a third. He would need fewer employees, and his food costs would be dramatically reduced. “But”, he added “we cannot compromise with the integrity of the food we offer. The first line of defense in being healthy is to eat well, and it’s also about the personal satisfaction of working with the freshest, best food, and contributing to the health of my community that also matters.”

Keeping Pace with the Seasons Matt Yohalem, Chef-owner at Il Piatto in Santa Fe grew up in New York city, the son of an accountant and a mother who was earning a Ph.D. Yohalem ate like many New Yorkers, he picked up the phone and dialed for delivery, and was surprised when he finally learned that Chinese restaurants actually had dining rooms. Earning a degree in Culinary Arts at Johnson and Wales in Providence, Yohalem went on to apprentice under some very demanding chefs both in the states and later in Europe. His take-away mirrored Richter’s sensibility – and that of so many chefs: they want the absolute freshest, best ingredients they can get their hands on – and they want their food to be a reflection of place. Yohalem, like many chefs, is a firm believer that food in season just tastes better, and he puts his creativity to work offering sometimes as many as thirteen different specials around one abundant, in season ingredient. “The first day squash blossoms are out I can’t afford them, they’re an elite product. When there’s a glut, I can afford them. I also like to shop post market, I shop at 12:45 when the market is closing at 1 versus 9 in the morning. I change my menu as the market dictates – the shopping is the hardest part – not the menu.” He urges other chefs to do the same, and to “stop trying to beat Mother Nature, don’t buy arugula when the market bins are overflowing with squashes.” He, like Richter, also believes in getting involved in and understanding how our food system works, and in that regard is a board member of the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market Institute. Knowing how the system works means knowing where change needs to happen, and Yohalem is a firm believer in being a part of the solution.

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

Reality Check George Gundrey is that rare creature who has been on all sides, he’s been a farmer and is the former Executive Director of the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market. You could say the restaurant business is in his blood,he owns Atrisco Restaurant in the DeVargas shopping, just took over the family run Tomasita's, and his relatives own the iconic downtown Tia Sophia’s downtown. Gundrey makes no bones about the fact that buying local is “ridiculously expensive”, nearly twice if not three times the price of the big truck wholesalers, but that it also tastes better. It’s also not easy to deal with several or many farmers and the inconsistencies in quality of product and erratic supply, which are realities in a fledgling local food system. Gundrey insists that his relationship with an individual farmer he can rely on works better for him, and that it really is about the relationship. As he goes through the math of running a restaurant, you begin to see where the cracks are in the system: “If your food costs are around 30% of your food sales, say you’re charging $10 for a burger, the food cost alone is $3. Factor in overhead, if you’re lucky and your restaurant is stable and busy – you might be making 15% profit overall, and 2/3 of that profit happens during your busy season, the other third spread out over the rest of the year. Now factor in paying twice the price for local produce or four times the price for local meats, which can actually become loss leaders.” Gundrey goes on to talk about what will happen when Obamacare kicks in, and businesses like his with more than 50 employees will be required to participate in the insurance costs for his employees. It’s not that he doesn’t want to, it’s simply that the numbers don’t add up. Traditionally, many restaurant jobs are low wage jobs, and those employees cannot afford health insurance. Now they will be required to participate and buy insurance, and the employer will also be required to kick in, creating a burden on both employee and employer, who are both operating on razor thin margins. It’s easy to see how paying higher prices for local food might become a lesser priority.

“Factor in overhead, if you’re lucky and your restaurant is stable and busy – you might be making 15% profit overall, and 2/3 of that profit happens during your busy season..." On the surface there’s more awareness and demand for the food grown in our community, everybody agrees the taste is better and we want to support our local farms and farmers. The question is how deep our own commitment is, and whether or not we can put our money where our mouths are long enough to grow a healthy food system in our own back yards. Keep in mind that the farmers are not getting rich here, the average yearly income for a New Mexican farmer is well below the $20,000 mark. Gundrey sums up the quandary perfectly: “It’s not like choosing Whole Foods over Safeway, both have tomatoes and lettuce. It’s more about a commitment to having a Aldeeper and Jane Soake and making Harvesting Pearswork.” relationship that Prickly relationship

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Matt Yohalem, Il Piatto

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Santa Fe Farm to Restaurant Project By Beverly Post • Photo by Sergio Salvador

A pig-tailed, energetic twenty-something-year-old, Nina YozellEpstein flits around the Santa Fe Farmers' Market with an overweight clipboard in her hand, talking to farmers. This is Yozell-Epstein's second season as coordinator for the Farm to Restaurant project, a program of the non-profit organization Farm to Table. Through this program, Farm to Table helps facilitate the delivery of New Mexicogrown produce and value-added products to Santa Fe-area restaurants. It's no simple task, coordinating a myriad of produce with the variety of restaurants—from upscale eating houses to neighborhood pizza joints—that incorporate local foods. “As one of my colleagues always says,” quips Yozell-Epstein, “if it was easy, it would have been done without us.”

Delivery makes it easy for restaurants to source local ingredients without breaking too much from their normal routine, explains YozellEpstein. Statistics of which she's especially proud: “The food travels [only] between five and 75 miles to get to these restaurants; we deliver vegetables, fruit, and cheese in an average time of 15 hours from when it was harvested!”

The growers all know Nina; before she was involved with Farm to Restaurant, she spent three years managing the Farmers' Market Café. In addition, she currently serves on the board of the Farmers' Market, and has volunteered on many of the farms.

Each week, producers predict how much of a given item they will have available for the following week's delivery. Once chefs place their requests, Yozell-Epstein divvies up the orders among the various farmers. By Tuesday of a given week, farmers know what they need to harvest for their Farm to Restaurant customers; produce is dropped off in Santa Fe on Thursday, and arrives at restaurants the next day. Both the invoices and the bagged product identify from which producer they come; chefs know exactly who grew each onion and every bunch of kale.

From its inception in 2005 until late last year, Farm to Restaurant had been housed under the umbrella of the Santa Fe Alliance. This winter, the project transitioned to its new home at Farm to Table, a long-standing advocate for locally-based agriculture and healthy food policy. Initially conceived as a “buy local” marketing campaign, the early years of the program consisted mainly of restaurant window stickers, table tents, and advertising touting the slogan “Do you know who grows your food?” But both producers and chefs wanted more. Restaurants were looking for the ease of delivery and invoicing they get from national food distributors, and growers wanted assurance they weren't being used as a marketing decoy. “Farmers really care about how they are perceived in the community,” says Yozell-Epstein. “It's insulting to have someone buy from them once and then has [the farm's] name on the menu for years.” The program took a giant leap forward with the vision of actually delivering produce. One of the major organizational partners that came on board with expert advice and direct producer-to-buyer experience was Farm to Table. Then-staff member Ilana Blankman was contracted to help move the program to the next level, including applying for federal grant money to jump-start the delivery program. An integral component was the “value chain” model, a cooperative— rather than competitive—system among the farmers. Farm to Table Executive Director Pam Roy credits Blankman with the expertise for setting the stage to move from a marketing campaign to a bona fide, accountable, local-food delivery system.

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

Busy chefs benefit from having access to produce from multiple farms, while only dealing with a single ordering system and invoice. And by having the program handle so much of the non-farming side of the business—the marketing, sales, and bookkeeping of restaurant orders—the producers also gain.

If a grower has a good variety of crops and 50-500 pounds weekly available for wholesale, selling to restaurants is a great option. A larger farm, or one with a more limited variety of crops, could work with one of Farm to Table's institutional programs, selling to schools or hospitals. Transparency is key to helping farmers, restaurants, and the discriminating Santa Fe “foodie” public have confidence in the integrity of the program. “The chefs are so grateful for these ingredients,” says Nina with a smile, “They're always telling me their stories, what they made [out of the local produce]. Some of the chefs are even posting dishes on their Facebook pages!” For her part, Farm to Table's Pam Roy is pleased with the addition of restaurant delivery to the non-profit's other programs, and appreciative of the collaborative efforts between her staff members. “It's wonderful to have young, smart, innovative and committed people like Nina and Shauna [Farm to Market Director Shoshana Woodworth] for the program,” says Roy. “They will be here for the future of the local food movement.” A major, on-going challenge in northern New Mexico is the scarcity of physical assets to support the expansion of local agricultural initiatives. “We're trying to be very realistic about the program not taking on a lot

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of infrastructure before [Farm to Restaurant] builds,” cautions Roy. “We need to have a certain amount of demand [for product] before investing in infrastructure.” New this year is the cold storage aggregation space at the Santa Fe University of Art and Design; a long-term goal is having various aggregation points, from Taos to La Cienega, so that farmers don't have to drive long distances to a sole in-town collection point. Also challenging this year has been a substantially smaller budget than in the government-funded two-year pilot stage of the delivery project. “The program is happening,” says Yozell-Epstein, “it's just taking a lot more creativity and shuffling.” Although Farm to Restaurant charges a “middleman mark-up” fee, the delivery numbers are not yet large enough for the program to pay for itself without outside funding. That's why partnering with other entities in the community, as well as the enthusiastic response of chefs, is so important. “If there's one thing we learned through [our previous experience with] Farm to School,” says Pam Roy, “It's that you can market and network all you want, but until you engage the end buyers—the schools, the restaurants—a program will have difficulty succeeding over time.” For Yozell-Epstein, having the Farm to Restaurant delivery and marketing program within Farm to Table's framework is a great fit. “Everyone here has vast experience in farming and non-profit work. All of my colleagues are incredible mentors, and their love for this work is so apparent.” Their work is such fun, she says, that most of the time “we just share in the delight of being around fresh, bountiful produce!” Beverly M. Post has been involved with grassroots non-profits as staff, board member, and volunteer for over 20 years. Most recently she worked as Membership and Development Director for the Santa Fe Alliance.

Farm to Table promotes locally based agriculture through education, community outreach and networking; enhances marketing opportunities for farmers; encourages family farming, farmers’ markets and the preservation of agricultural traditions; influences public policy; and furthers understanding of the links between farming, food, health and local economies. 505.473.1004 · farmtotablenm.org

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Nina 39Yozell-Epstein

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Cherie Austin Chef Kaainoa edible Santa Feand 路 Summer 2012 Ravey, Farm & Table

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Duke City's Farm to Restaurant Scene By Andrea Feucht • Photo by Sergio Salvador

hen you think of the connection between farms and restaurants in New Mexico, it is easy to assume that nearly everything is happening in Santa Fe, with their year-round farmer’s market and appreciation for sustainability at any cost (and a good number of folks with incomes to back that up). Over the last several years, the Duke City is catching up with a contingent of chefs and restaurants that have embraced the notion that one’s food ought to come from local sources. Those sources - farms, ranches, growers - should execute high standards in their treatment of the soil and water while also caring appropriately for their plants and animals: the “products”. The restaurants range from having a long history with their favorite farmers to others that are recent converts. Some might have newly opened with the intent of good farm relations from day one, and the rare example will grow their own - either on-site or elsewhere around town. Honestly, it is a rare restaurant that does not have a few potted herbs somewhere near the kitchen for on-the-spot use, so take it as a given when considering how many freshly harvested items are in use in these progressive eateries. On the soil side, farmers also have new incentive to cultivate relationships with restaurants that will showcase the best of their hard labor, possibly even naming their farm directly on menu descriptions. This ensures visibility in the public eye, enticing folks to join their CSA or look for their produce at markets all over town. It certainly means something to the imaginary Frank’s Farm when a well-known restaurant menu lists, “spinach from Frank’s Farm” instead of “organic spinach” or even “locally-grown spinach”. That said, both farms and restaurants benefit from mid-level organizations, collectives that bring together the fruits of several local farms and then sell to restaurants. The list of these is far shorter than that of the farms, but their impact is huge. The era of B Riley Fresh Herbs, a much-loved produce supplier in the Northeast Heights, ended a good five years ago and the new distribution organizations seem to be working to fill that loss. While quite a few individual farmers sell directly to restaurants, two collectives roll off the tongues of restaurant owners over and over again, Fresh Collective: Gina Riccobono’s name comes up when chefs speak highly of their ability to procure local ingredients with minimal hassle. Another strong player on the scene, the Agri-Cultura Network should not be overlooked; their holistic approach includes providing support and training for local farmers to grow capacity, as well as distribution for their network of local growers to restaurants, marketing and invoicing services complete the circle.

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On the restaurant side of the farm equation, let’s start with the most recent addition to the farm-friendly restaurant pack: the aptly named Farm & Table in the North Valley neighborhood of Los Ranchos. Chef Kaainoa Ravey hails from Hawaii and selects produce literally from the restaurant’s back yard; this is a spot doing the farm-torestaurant thing with full gusto. They call it Sol Harvest Farm, and as of mid-summer fully one-third of the fresh produce is from their own crop; the rest comes from a bevy of local farms from Hip Chiks to Las Palomas Farms to Skarsgaard Farm to the collectives Agri-Cultura in the South Valley and Fresh Collective. Prepared food producers are not left out of the local action, from Heidi’s Raspberry Jam to Lusty Monk Mustards to Joe S. Sausage. Founder Cherie Austin will chat your socks off when it comes to local growers and all restaurants’ role in the chain. She asserts, “I love the idea of challenging restaurants to use what’s fresh”. She is an advocate of chefs talking to each other and to their farmers about what they want, and to work together to find ways to use local products when they are limited, or overflowing. Think of the internet-famous photos of folks finding their car full of zucchini if they left it unlocked for a few hours. We have those periods in Albuquerque, too, and utilizing ingredients intelligently while preserving for later is a strategy more restaurants can employ. With all that in mind, Chef Ravey accents a wide-ranging menu dotted with inspired island specialties. He even does a blue corn based New Mexican rendition of poi, the fabled taro root porridge. Late summer will see the tapering off of tomatoes and summer squash and the heartier greens appear along with root vegetables and winter squash. Come winter you might not see a single red orb on this menu; the whole kitchen staff agrees that only the best tomatoes will be served and that means summer is the time to enjoy.

n the other end of the “farms upfront” timeline, Jennifer James has proudly named names on her menu for at least a decade through Restaurant Jennifer James, Chef du Jour, Graze and now Jennifer James 101, sometimes taking in the offers of produce from small growers right into the back door of the restaurant. My earliest recollections from Graze more than five years ago were the punchy flavors in her meticulously assembled salads featuring “Cecilia’s arugula”, and the repertoire has only grown. Jennifer has built a solid and respectable reputation over the years for serving the best local and seasonal specialties from New Mexico

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

and beyond. Her menus reflect her passion for seasonality and authenticity; it wouldn’t be unusual to find Wild King Salmon from California on her menu in late spring or truffles in Autumn. Also in the kitchen is partner Nelle Bauer, a chef whose skills and creativity have blossomed through her collaboration with Jennifer. Nelle has a thing for garlic, particularly from Chispas Farm, “Even though we work with their garlic year-round, it is all the variation available throughout the summer that thrills us. Eli and Amanda [of Chispas] are masters of garlic and their focus is so exacting that they consistently produce amazing product. It's the kind of food that requires little work on my part to produce incredible results.” Both women find inspiration in the seasons; mid-summer menu features included a shaved zucchini salad with goat cheese dressing and a savory galette featuring sweet caramelized onions and gruyere – essentially a French onion soup pastry, or Nelle’s amazing ruby red beet soup. Year in and year out, Jennifer James 101 is one of those places you’ll go and count on the fact that you can order anything on the menu and know it’s going to be wonderful.

Chef Jennifer James & Nelle Bauer, Jennifer James 101

this year in the unique avocation of Chef Nethery - that of a master mozzarella maker. Remember that amazing fresh and salty white orbs sold and sliced at Relish? Yep, same stuff. His Caprese salad might very well be the best one in town this summer. If tomatoes are still hopping, get on over there. As Albuquerque’s farm to restaurant movement gains wings, these small aggregate organizations are a godsend to a medium-volume place like Artichoke, where a farmer with a handful of beets at the back door isn’t enticing enough to create a whole special for the evening.

Jason Greene, The Grove Cafe & Market

Late summer means tomatoes to Tony, just like nearly everyone else on the planet. But I do believe that Artichoke Café has an edge

Jason could hardly be more excited about the summer months, saying, “Summer here in NM is what we wait for every year. Currently about 75% of our menu is made up of local farmers produce. Every year there is a new harvest of something different or something a certain farmer has grown just for us.” He’s happy to have gone through

he Artichoke Café has stayed on top of the tried-and-true special occasion lists of locals for decades, not without effort. Chef Pat Keene has marshaled her talents since the doors opened over 30 years ago into keeping her staff at their very best. Current executive chef Tony Nethery (one of the original duo behind the Relish sandwich shops) continues to create dishes that use the best of local farms. He says, “Agri-Cultura [in the South Valley] is fantastic – we get the best of the best from local farms, all from one place.” He’s also been finding great items through La Montanita and their new warehouse, uses the offerings from Nolina’s Heavenly Organics, and snips herbs from their couple of potted kitchen varieties.

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

ust up the street from Artichoke, Lauren and Jason Greene are the next generation of power wife-husband teams with their six-yearold Grove Café and Market. They met while working large venue food gigs, she as marketing and management, he as chef. Leaving that world for the blossoming East Downtown (EDo) neighborhood, they launched their dream café and haven’t looked back. Not one day passes with more than a few empty tables; – their reputation for excellent fresh foods spread quickly and never stopped.

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the summer with some new items: beautiful Chioggia beets, plums & peaches, and some new heirloom tomato varietals. Jason echo’s the tomato-love refrain of most chefs in town, “the local tomatoes are something I look forward to every year here especially being from the South. I grew up on them as a kid by eating nothing but Tomato Sandwiches with Dukes mayo, white bread, salt and pepper.” After tomato season passes, heartier squashes will come on the scene, and the beets will still be holding on. Every soup I’ve had at The Grove is amazing, so those butternuts can’t come too soon.

t might sound odd to visit a steak restaurant and hope to find local vegetables, but at a commanding table in Albuquerque’s Uptown, you can do just that. At Marcello’s Chop House, chefs Ryan Hallum and Jeff Walker don’t flinch at selling one of the priciest steaks in town, but the prime beef would be a one-note meal without sides that make the best use of vegetables from farms like Nolina’s Heavenly Organics, and the robust selection gathered up by Fresh Collective. Yes, it’s true: meat, starches, and wine dominate the offerings. Poke just a little bit under the surface of the menu to find ripe local tomatoes, New Mexico chiles, and local salad greens. This spot is proof that a local farm connection isn’t only for restaurants that carry the veggie-loving torch - carnivores can play along, too.

Chefs Ryan Hallum and Jeff Walker, Marcello's

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Chef Myles Lucero, Savoy

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

Even when every last scrap of farm produce has been utilized, pots with herbs of all culinary descriptions are on-site, ready for a microharvest. While the growing season is in swing, the menu will utilize produce from Fresh Collective, Amyo Farms, Nolina’s Heavenly Organics, Vida Verde Farms and many more. Chef Lucero is especially excited for late summer’s tomato crop and the juicy orbs he’ll receive from Los Jardines de Moktezuma, Skarsgard Farms, and Cecilia McCord’s farm outside Socorro.

Both John and Myra are working with a friend who has a farm on his property in Los Ranchos, anointed the ‘Little Field Farm.’ They swing by when needed to weed and harvest, and have enjoyed both the fruits of the farm as well as events centered on cooking from the farm. Ghattas is enamored with the farm,“So far we have harvested spring greens, spinach, arugula, radishes, beets, swiss chard, turnips, and kale . . . coming up next are cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, and a variety of chiles. My husband and I go there and help with the weeding, irrigation, etc., and we also have harvest parties where we provide dinner for friends and they help weed and harvest. It’s a lot of fun, a lot of work, but nothing beats fresh food from the farm.”

avoy Bar & Grill remains an excellent reason to venture up into the Northeast Heights for dinner - ever more so when Myles Lucero in the kitchen, groomed from years of experience at sister restaurant, Seasons took over for Bob Peterson. Peterson had built a practice of using local ingredients when appropriate, including lamb from Talus Wind Ranch, goat cheese from Old Windmill Dairy, and produce from several farms around town. Chef Lucero continues the practice, building on his farm-friendly childhood on Isleta Pueblo, he harbors a deep appreciation for using locally grown food in his kitchen. He recently coordinated a visit with Gina Riccobono of Fresh Collective to visit local farmers where they work, connecting faces and fields to the raw ingredients he uses.

ine expertise and local legacy meet at Myra Ghattas’ haven of both breakfast and bottles: Slate Street Café. The initial menu debuted seven years ago when the doors opened, the creation of an Albuquerque restaurant scene veteran; it has recently been renovated by John Guillory, bringing touches from Beneficial Farms eggs to the heady red chile cooked up at Duran’s. Produce from farms all over town augment an already popular menu, for all meals of the day. The middle of summer found them enjoying Opal Basil and Candy Onions from Vide Verde Farm, and of course tomatoes.

Chef Cory Gray, Farina Pizzeria & Chef Tony Nethery, Artichoke Cafe

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

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our years ago when Farina Pizzeria branched out from Artichoke Café, I was sad to see Stewart Dorris depart from tending Artichoke’s wine bar to overseeing pizza assembly; boy, was I overreacting. Stew and Richard Winters have built a contender to rival the very best Naples-style pizza in the country. Adding to their locally sourced toppings like Exotic Edibles oyster mushrooms and Old Windmill Dairy goat cheese, are decadent meatballs with pork from La Montanita Coop. Chef Cory Gray was happy to gush about the greens they are getting from Chispas and Vida Verde Farms. He says that if they bought from the big chain suppliers, “all that money goes somewhere else,” instead of to local interests. Early summer the kitchen staff all loved the squash blossoms for risottos and garlic scapes for pestos and bruschetta. After musing about the wonders of fresh radishes and how short their season lasts, Cory mentions a side project, “we want to work on pickling and preserving so that we can take advantage of the local farmers and produce in general to have items available through the winter.” They are taking in more tomatoes than they can use in order to blanch and freeze for the winter season – a smart tactic straight out of a turn of the century domestic handbook.

ll over town, things are moving and shaking, mostly in a good direction. To keep this progress, a few things should happen that would benefit all parties. Cherie Austin of Farm & Table and I agree - there are two gaps in the flow, both having to do with predictability. First, cooks and restaurant buyers tend to want to know they can get X number of pounds of Y variety of vegetables. Farmers have variable harvests, and this can create conflict. When restaurants trust the farm, and put their faith in their own ability to cook with what they have, both sides of the relationship grow. The second part is with us, the dining public. If you know that your chef is talented, why not let them cook what they want, especially if it’s in season? Don’t fret if arugula is what you’re expecting and it’s not on the menu, but local frisee or kale is. The spirit of adventure and willingness to embrace seasonality is a key aspect of a rewarding and memorable meal. With this trust, the already blossoming farm/restaurant connection will flourish.

Coming up soon are the squashes and pumpkin, and also the heavier greens like kale. For potatoes, they love those from Cecilia McCord’s Socorro farm. And then there’s the chile: Cecilia’s neighbor Albert just happens to grow some of the best green chile in the state - and Farina uses it. Even proteins like ground beef and eggs come through La Montanita Coop; herbs for now come largely from Aroma Fresca but there’s talk of a rooftop garden. It definitely seems like Richard and Stew and crew are doing nearly everything they can to keep their supplies as close to home as possible.

hris Pope might sound like the name of the boy next door from a nice small town (and he very well could be) but he is the technically precise chef at Zinc Bistro and Wine Bar, and has been since the day they opened. Few happy hours in town beat the Cellar Bar’s menu and beverage specials; the unheralded bonus is the inclusion of much from local farms and suppliers. Like their sister restaurant Savoy, local ingredients are speckled throughout the menu, with or without mention. Take for instance the basic salad greens. No matter what the season, Pope and his staff try to procure locally and usually they succeed. Individual farms come into play, such as Chispas Farms, Amyo Farms, and Vida Verde. Chef Pope has also contributed his skills to the late summer Dinner in the Field at the Rio Grande Community Farm, challenging himself to dazzle a high-dollar crowd with all local ingredients from produce to proteins. He normally works with Old Windmill Dairy for cheese and Red Canyon Ranch for lamb - finding inspiration in the strong flavors to pair with each month’s ripe out-of-the-ground offerings.

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John Guillory, Street2012 Cafe edible Santa Fe ·Slate Summer

Rick Murphy, Sol Harvest Farms

edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012

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Fresh Collective: Albuquerque Matchmaker By Nissa Patterson • Photo by Sergio Salvador

Imagine you are a chef. You are planning an antipasti plate bursting with grilled local vegetables. Now imagine you are a farmer. You have a bumper crop of fabulous Jimmy Nardelo frying peppers and you are in search of restaurants to buy them. The chef and the farmer, in search of each other, both eager but both busy with their everyday responsibilities. Enter the matchmaker, Gina Riccobono, owner of Fresh Collective.

sumer demand can make a big difference in whether or not a restaurant consistently uses local ingredients. In addition to making the demand, consumers must also be willing to pay a little more for that “ah” experience of tasting a Jimmy Nardelo pepper melt on the tongue. So next time you eat out make an inquiry and find out what on the menu is local and where it is from. If you hear the words Fresh Collective, raise your glass, “To Gina, the matchmaker.”

Fresh Collective* was an idea born just 2 years ago when Gina was wrapping up an internship at Rio Grande Community Farms. It occurred to her that often farms were looking for new markets to expand into and, at the same time, chefs were seeking fresh, local ingredients. Just 28 years old, Gina brushed aside naysayers and started a business that links these two parties. Since then her business has grown from a fragile upstart to a healthy small business with 3 part-time employees and a robust inventory of New Mexico grown vegetables, herbs, fruit, lamb, eggs and the Sabroso line of products.

*Recently changed name from Fresh Produce ABQ Nissa Patterson is a mother, writer, gardener, and public health professional. Her place is in the garden, where she is exploring the joys of growing food for her family.

Gina Ricobono

Like a good matchmaker, Fresh Collective provides a service to both parties. For the farmer, they seek out new restaurant customers and market the farmer’s product. For the restaurant, they provide an online ordering system with an inventory from multiple farms, and oversee the quality of the food. Fresh Collective also handles invoicing for both parties, as well as storing and delivering the farm product. Gina gives special care to meet the needs of both her chefs and her farmers. “It’s my business,” she is quick to point out. But it is more than just a business to her, Gina is passionate about the local food movement. She goes the extra mile by holding farms tours so that her clients can build their relationship and bond over topics such as quality and potential crops. If you ask Gina about her business’ future, you’ll see this is a woman with big plans - ideas include a facility for canning local produce and opening a juice bar. For now, though, she has her sights set on building her customer base and infrastructure: delivery trucks, coolers, and an improved on-line ordering system. For Gina her business is about not only making a living but also living her passion and ideals; while she is “dying for infrastructure” she will be making the more expensive choice of purchasing bio- diesel trucks. Fresh Collective matches two eager parties but there is one more person in this relationship: the consumer. Gina emphasizes that con-

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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

Farmers that supply Fresh Collective: • Amyo Farms • Buena Tierra Farm • Charybda Farms • Cornelio Candelaria Organics • The Egg Man • Española Valley Farm • Erda Gardens • Frost Hill Organics • Ironwood Farm • Leaf Water Farm • Los Jardines de Moktezuma • Moore Family Farms • Nolina's Heavenly Organics • Rancho La Jolla • Ranchline All Natural • Schwebach Farm • Sol Harvest Restaurants that use Fresh Collective:

edible Santa Fe’s “We Love Local” App now available on iTunes for iPhone & iPad.

• Farina • Savoy • Zinc • Nob Hill Bar and Grill • Jennifer James 101 • The Grove Fresh Collective is always interested in finding more quality New Mexico foods to purchase and restaurants to use them. For more information contact 505-948-1378, fresh-collective.com, or freshproduceabq@gmail.com

Download Now We put Local Food at Your Fingertips Whether you need to know where you’ll dine tonight, where your closest farmers market is, or where you can buy the craft brew and local meat for your BBQ tonight - we’ve got you covered! Download the app to find updated guides for all your local food needs, plus neighborhood guides, recipes, stories, video and more!

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

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Completing the Circle Foodwaste Recycling – Breaking it Down Story and Photos by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

A bustling coffee, breakfast, and lunch joint like the Grove Café and Market produces about 1400 pounds of compostable material a week serving up lattes, eggs, and sandwiches. Once a week John “Ski” Shaski of Soilutions, a local composting business, picks up the Grove’s compostable material. Ski services about two dozen restaurants, film sets, small businesses, and corporate campuses weekly in the Albuquerque area collecting food waste for the Soilutions’ Foodwaste Recycling program. Through these efforts, Soilutions diverts about 35,000 pounds of material from the landfill each week.

Composting food waste in general, and in particular at a commercial scale, helps extend the life of our landfills, saves tax money, and improves the quality of our arid southwestern soil. Based on EPA figures published in 2010, about 63% of what American’s throw away is compostable, and another 25% is recyclable glass, plastic, and metal. While the city of Albuquerque has recently taken important steps to improve our diversion of non-compostable recyclables from the landfill, Soilutions is making a small, but growing dent in a very large pile of compostable food and paper waste we send to the dump every year.

According to Ski, measured against national averages, the cost of disposing of solid waste in New Mexico is relatively low, which makes the cost benefit for most businesses for food waste recycling negligible. For certain businesses that generate larger quantities of compostable material, like People’s Flower Shop for example, it can significantly reduce the number of dumpsters they send to the landfill. In this case, where they used to have nearly six dumpster pick-ups a week, they have reduced this number to one or two by participating in the program. For restaurants, it can cut their solid waste volume in half. Additionally, food waste recycling creates a number of marketable opportunities—Ski provides restaurants with statistics on the volume of waste they divert from the landfill and lists all participants on the Soilutions website, soilutions.net. But mostly composting at a commercial scale happens because it simply makes sense.

When Soilutions composts, they lose about 2/3 of the volume of waste in the process—so 3 pounds of table scraps becomes 1 pound of compost. When you purchase Soilutions compost, about 12% of that material has come from their food waste recycling program. Most of the waste procured in the program becomes either their Premium Compost or their Topsoil Blend, both approved for use in certified organic gardens.

Most restaurants sign up with Foodwaste Recycling program because it’s an important part of their values. Jason Greene, owner and Executive Chef of the Grove Café and Market, says he wishes more restaurants would get on board with composting. When he attended culinary school fifteen years ago, he said, there was no question; it simply was part of running a good kitchen. He praises Soilutions’ efforts to build this sort of service in Albuquerque.

Many local farmers who sell their produce to restaurants like the Grove, purchase compost from Soilutions. Walter Dod, the operations manager at Soilutions, says an average successful small produce farm will purchase between 60 and 80 cubic yards of compost a year, and the average backyard gardener will purchase about 1 cubic yard. If you’ve enjoyed brunch at the Grove anytime lately, you can know your food has come full cycle from field to restaurant and back again. Check out the Soilutions’ website for a full list of restaurants and other businesses that compost, at soilutions.net. Soilutions 9008 Bates Road Southeast, Albuquerque, NM 87105, 505-877-0220

The Soilutions Foodwaste Recycling program started in 2008, and has yet to lose a customer. It’s is easier than it sounds: Ski brings bins, gives management a list of items to put into them, then schedules a time to pick up the full ones and leave empty ones. Most establishments he services pick up the practice without a hitch and never look back. Ski says the biggest issue is contamination, which essentially means someone has put glass, metal or plastic in with the compost. He says his biggest challenges are food-packaging containers made from hybrid materials, like plastic lined paper cups, and labeled biodegradable, which is different than compostable.

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PREMIUM

eat local guide New Mexico has its own unique food traditions—from Hatch to Chimayo—and we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food.

Authentic

EAT LOCAL GUIDE LO

Albuquerque Annapurna

Delicious

L LY

S O U RC E

Prairie Star Restaurant and wine bar at santa ana golf club

Annapurna is a woman-owned vegetarian restaurant serving healing cuisine in Albuquerque since 2001 and Santa Fe since 2005. This premier organic establishment focuses on a made-from-scratch menu that is Ayurvedic (a healing system from India), vegan and gluten-free, including its own vegan and gluten-free bakery. 2201 Silver Ave SE, 505.262.2424; 7520 4th St NW, 505.254.2424 chaishoppe.com

An unforgettable dining experience. Executive Chef Darren McHale masterfully creates stunning Contemporary New American cuisine with global influences and changes our menu seasonally to reflect the freshest ingredients available. Each dish is carefully crafted from abundant locally produced and the finest ingredients and for unique flavor combinations and flair of presentation. Enjoy wine from New Mexico's largest cruvinet with over 50 wines by the glass. Tuesday thru Sunday (Closed Monday); Wine Bar opens at 5pm and dinner from 5:30 - 9pm. Package Wine also available.

Artichoke Café

Celebrating its 21st year in business, the Artichoke Cafe offers casual fine dining, a Wine Spectator Award Winning Wine List and Artisan Cocktails in the full-service bar. Private rooms are available for special occasions and meetings. Off-premise catering. On-premise parking with attendant on duty. Walk from the Albuquerque Railrunner stop. Lunch Monday-Friday 11am - 2:30pm, Dinner nightly 5:30pm - 9pm. 424 Central Ave. SE, 505-243-0200 · artichokecafe.com

Farm & Table

Located in Albuquerque’s North Valley, Farm & Table recognizes that we are blessed with over 300 days of sunshine, irrigation from the Rio Grande, and rich soil. Our community is blossoming to promote health, sustainability, and the local economy. This celebration of local food and community is what drives the philosophy at Farm & Table. Wednesday and Thursday, 5pm – 9pm; Friday and Saturday, 5pm – 10pm; Saturday and Sunday, 9am – 2pm. 8917 4th Street NW, 505.503.7124 · farmandtablenm.com

Farina Pizzeria & Wine Bar

An artisan pizzeria and wine bar with a classic Italian menu with a sophisticated twist. Great selection of affordable Italian wines, local Marble Brewery on draught, and delectable home-made desserts in a renovated historic building. Voted “Best New Restaurant” by Albuquerque Magazine. Walk from the Albuquerque Railrunner stop. 510 Central Ave SE, 505.243.0130 · farinapizzeria.com

Savoy Bar and Grill

Savoy is a casual fine dining, locally owned restaurant in Albuquerque’s Northeast Heights. Savoy has a full bar, extensive wine list, serves steaks, oysters, and fresh fish. We have a beautiful patio and lounge, featuring specials and a great happy hour, 3 to 6pm and 9 to 10pm daily. Sunday Brunch 10am -3pm; Lunch M-F 11am-3pm; Dinner daily 5pm. 10601 Montgomery NW, 505.294.9463 · savoyabq.com

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill

Great food and wine with a seasonal flair. Enjoy our wood-fired steaks and seafood while sipping a glass of wine from our award winning wine list. Or, relax on our rooftop patio and enjoy our happy hour with a great view of Old Town, Albuquerque. Lunch Monday – Friday 11:30am – 2:30pm; Dinner daily at 5pm. 2031 Mountain NW, 505.766.5100 · seasonsabq.com

The Grove Café & Market

An artisan café serving breakfast, lunch and brunch. The Grove features local organic produce and products and always uses the highest quality seasonal ingredients available. Enjoy fine coffee, tea, wine and brunch cocktails and peruse our market for culinary gifts and favorite foodie items. Sunday brunch is a true taste of this bustling café scene. Tuesday – Saturday 7am – 4pm; Sunday 8am – 3pm; Closed Monday. 600 Central SE, 505.248.9800 · thegrovecafemarket.com

Zinc Wine Bar and Bistro

Los Poblanos Inn

Our cuisine is rooted in what comes from our farm as well as the New Mexico Rio Grande River Valley. Cuisine and ambiance reflect chef Jonathan Perno’s aesthetic, and the farm’s long established relationships with local farmers. Please check our website to see when the next dinner will be, or to book your own event or private dining experience. 4803 Rio Grande Blvd NW, 505.344.9297 · lospoblanos.com

A three level bistro in the heart of Nob Hill, Zinc features contemporary cuisine with a French flair. The intimate cellar bar serves a lighter menu with live music three nights a week. Serving dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails and tasty bar bites! Afternoon Intermezzo Mon-Sat 3pm to 5pm. Dinner daily at 5pm; Saturday & Sunday Brunch 11am to 2:30pm. 3009 Central NE, 505.254.9462 · zincabq.com

A tavola non si invecchia.

(At the table with good friends you do not grow old.)

NEIGHBORHOOD TRATTORIA

Lunch M-F 11-2 · Dinner Nightly from 5 322 Garfield Street, Santa Fe 505.995.9595 · AndiamoSantaFe.com

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

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Santa Fe

taos

Andiamo

We prepare the finest, local and seasonal ingredients a la minute with the utmost care and respect. Dining at Andiamo inspires conversation and evokes memories. We see Andiamo as a collective experience for people who love food, and our staff is genuinely happy to work with our customers. At the end of the day, we want our guests to feel better for having eaten here. Across the street from the Railyard. Lunch Mon-Fri 11am - 2pm, Dinner Nightly from 5pm. 322 Garfield St., 505.995.9595 · AndiamoSantaFe.com

Annapurna

Annapurna is a woman-owned vegetarian restaurant serving healing cuisine in Albuquerque since 2001 and Santa Fe since 2005. This premier organic establishment focuses on a made-from-scratch menu that is Ayurvedic (a healing system from India), vegan and gluten-free, including its own vegan and gluten-free bakery. 1620 Saint Michaels Dr., 505.988.9688 · chaishoppe.com

Joe’s Dining

Since 2002 Santa Fe’s largest purchaser of Farmers Market meats and produce, expertly prepared by European trained chef/owner. Mesquite grill, pizza, brunch, wine, beer. Excellent quality, exceptional value. Open Tuesday – Sunday 11:30am – 9pm. 2801 Rodeo Rd. at Zia, 505.471.3800 · joesdining.com

La Casa sena

ACEQ

ACEQ – is a contemporary family-owned restaurant located in Arroyo Seco. We utilize the best in local, wild, and farm fresh ingredients. The menu features contemporary takes on old classics, house-made specialties, and craveable desserts that will change with the seasons. Dinner, Wednesday - Saturday 5:30-9:30pm; Sunday brunch, 11am 3pm. Arroyo Seco Plaza, 480 State Rd 150, Arroyo Seco, 575.776.0900 aceqrestaurant.com

Doc Martin’s, Taos Inn

Taos Cow Ice Cream Scoop Shop, Cafe and Deli

La Casa Sena – A local favorite for over 28 years! Chef Gharrity features New American West cuisine infused with fresh, local and seasonal ingredients. We also feature an award-winning wine list. Located in the historic Sena Plaza. La Casa Sena and La Cantina are open Daily 11:00a.m until close. La Cantina’s singing wait staff perform nightly starting at 6:00pm. 125 E. Palace Ave 505.988.5232 · lacasasena.com

In addition to our fresh, rBGH-free, all-natural super premium ice cream, we're proud to feature...locally roasted organic fair-trade coffee, fresh espresso drinks, homemade salads and soups, Boar's Head deli products, fresh-baked pastries, Odwalla juices, daily breakfast and lunch specials , a place to throw your birthday party...and so much more! Open every day from 7:00 am to 6:00 pm. 485 Hwy 150, Arroyo Seco, 575.776.5640 · taoscow.com

Palace Restaurant & saloon

Taos Diner and Taos Diner II

revolution bakery

The Gorge Bar and Grill

Old world elegance meets creative, contemporary cuisine at this iconic Santa Fe eatery. Award winning chef Joseph Wrede crafts inspired seasonal menus that are complemented by a substantive wine selection and a slate of classic and craft cocktails. Monday – Friday 11:30am – Midnight; Saturday 4pm – Midnight. 142 W Palace Ave., 505.428.0690 · palacesantafe.com Revolution Bakery is Santa Fe’s only 100% gluten-free bakery. We serve gluten-free breads, cakes, pies, muffins, cookies, cupcakes, coffee cakes, brownies, scones and more to take home or enjoy in our bright, airy and expansive dining room, with a cup of Metropolis coffee and free Wi-Fi. 1291 San Felipe Avenue, 505.988.2100 · revolutionbakery.com

Vinaigrette

A bright and lively bistro and wine bar in an historic adobe near downtown Santa Fe. Specializes in creative, gourmet entrée salads that highlight local and organic ingredients, including produce from the owner’s farm! Monday – Sunday 11am – 9pm; Closed Sunday. 709 Don Cubero Alley, 505.820.9205 · vinaigretteonline.com

Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown and organic breakfast, lunch and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine. Many ingredients from local farms and ranches. Fair trade organic coffee, where the locals go! 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575.758.2374 Taos Diner II 216B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575.751.1989 A fun and casual restaurant, perfect for a delicious meal or cocktails and appetizers to top off the day. The menu is straightforward and yet eclectic, chock full of favorites with the special twist of The Gorge. Every dish on the menu is made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 East Taos Plaza, 575.758.8866 · thegorgebarandgrill.com

The DRAGON FLY

The Dragonfly uses the highest quality ingredients, procured locally and organically when available, and hormone and antibiotic free dairy and non-cured meats. Seasonal produce is picked fresh from the chef’s garden or produced by small, local growers and in the off-season, produce is preserved and pickled for year round use. 402 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575.737.5859 · dragonflytaos.com

The Love Apple

The Love Apple is your local source for affordable, unpretentious, inventive food and wine. Our menu changes regularly, with nightly specials highlighting peak of the season ingredients. Reservations recommended. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, 5pm-9pm. 803 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575.751.0050 · www.theloveapple.net

Visit EdibleSantaFe.com for our online Eat Local Guide or Download our "We Love Local" App on iTunes and you will have our dining guide at your fingertips.

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El Meze

edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012

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edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012

Events Calendar edible Santa Fe and Friends will be hosting a series of cooking classes, lectures, food writing and food photography – classes ongoing. Whether you are a beginner, looking to improve your skills, or a seasoned pro…you will always learn something new at Kitchen Sink Stories. Meet your community and join the great, big, lively conversation at our table! Most classes are held at Hanks House at 1800 4th Street NW, Albuquerque.For schedule and class description, visit kitchensinkstories.com Liquid Currency 2012: Spend it like Water & Last Call at the Oasis August 18 and 28, 1 – 4pm and 7 – 9pm South Broadway Cultural Center and National Hispanic Cultural Center, Albuquerque

Explore our relationship with water; the costs associated with how we use and abuse it, and how we can conserve it in our coming crisis. Join a panel discussion led by Amigos Bravos on August 18 at the South Broadway Cultural Center, and a screening of the award winning Last Call at the Oasis, on August 28 at the National Hispanic Cultural Center. cabq.gov or burquebioneers.org Mountainair Sunflower Festival August 25, 10am – 4pm Dr. Saul Community Center, Mountainair

New Mexico Wine Festival at BernalillO September 1 – 3, All day Bernalillo

The New Mexico Wine Festival at Bernalillo wraps up the summer with the premier wine festival of the southwest! The largest in the state, enjoy tastes of two dozen New Mexico wines, live music, food, and more. newmexicowinefestival.com 14th Annual Maize Maze – Dino Maze September 3 – October 31, Mon–Thurs 9am – 3pm, Fri–Sun 9am – 10pm

Every Fall, the Maize Maze attracts thousands of visitors to Rio Grande Community Farm. The corn grown through the summer becomes 6 feet or taller – and has paths precisely cut by GPS technology to form the Maze. Proceeds from the Maze fund the special programs that support education, wildlife, and our community. riograndefarm.org VIVA CHILE FESTIVAL September 8 - 9 Los Lunas

First annual VIVA New Mexico Chile Festival in sunny Los Lunas, New Mexico. The middle Rio Grande valley is home to some of the best chile growing land in the state of New Mexico so the chile farmers of this region have joined together to host this wonderful event. vivachilefestival.com

Octoberfest September 15, 11am – 7pm Taos

This year the biggest and best ever Oktoberfest in Taos Ski Valley. FREE fun for all ages. Authentic Schuplatter band and dancers, German beer and food, activities for kids, brat eating contest, Yodelling contest, Alkhorn blowing contests and so much more. The chairlift will be running all day and Village stores offer blowout prices on ski gear and sporting apparel. skitaos.org Sprout 3 September 18, 6 – 9pm The Kosmos Art Space, 1715 5th Street, NW, Albuquerque

ABQ Sprout is a recurring public dinner funding micro-grants for local creative projects that contribute to the Albuquerque community. abqsprout.org Honoring the Elders of Valencia County September 21, 11:30 am Center for Ageless Living, 3216 Hwy 47 South, Los Lunas

Free lunch for Elders over the age of 85 in Valencia County, prepared from fresh produce picked at in house Five Leaf Organics Farm and served in the Green House Bakery & Bistro. Call 865-8813 to make reservations. nmagelessliving.com Septemberfest September 22, 12pm – 6pm Marble Brewery, Albuquerque

The Mountainair Sunflower Festival is a major cultural and festive event for the community and surrounding area, featuring local and regional artists and craftspeople, live music, and many food vendors. mountainairarts.org

Why wait till October? The original Marble beer festival. marblebrewery.com Ullrfest September 29, 12pm – 6pm Pajarito Mountain, Los Alamos

The Gods of Beer come together to implore the Gods of Snow for a great ski season. skipajarito.com

The Pie Festival September 7, 9am – Midnight Jackson Park, Pie Town

The Pie Town Annual Pie Festival includes a piebaking contest, games and races, music, food, arts and crafts, and pie, pie, pie. Admission is free and parking is easy. pietowncouncil.com Hatch Chile Festival September 1 – 2, 12pm – 6pm

Old Town Salsa Fiesta September 15, 1pm – 9:30pm Old Town, Albuquerque

Live music, chile eating contests, a carnival, and much more! hatchchilefest.com

Join us for the Salsa Fiesta, a showcase of Cubaninfluenced music and New Mexican dipping salsa. cabq.gov

edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

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Photos by Stephanie Cameron, © soniaC - Fotolia.com, © Igor Yaruta - Fotolia.com, © sjhuls - Fotolia.com, and © volff - Fotolia.com

Kitchen Sink Stories Inspire, Educate, Taste & Connect through the Story of Food On-Going Albuquerque

Events Calendar 3rd Annual New Mexico Brew Fest & Music Showcase October 6, 2012 1:00 pm - 6:00 pm Villa Hispana at Expo New Mexico, Albuquerque

Burque Bioneers October 26 – 27, 9am – 8pm National Hispanic Cultural Center and the Open Space Visitor's Center, Albuquerque

Featuring tastes from 20+ New Mexico Breweries. Early VIP Doors (with special small batch tastings) open at noon. General Admission doors from 1-6pm $20-$50. localiq.com

Two days in conversation, collaboration, and celebration with innovators, pollinators, conductors, connectors, cultivators, and others. Keynote conversation featuring Nina Simons, co-founder of Bioneers and former president of Seeds of Change. burquebioneers.org

29th Annual Wool Festival at Taos October 6 – 7, All day Kit Carson State Park, Taos

Come check out the wool market, fiber critters showcase, shearing and spinning demos, competitions, food vendors offering lamb and goat delicacies, live music, and more. taoswoolfestival.org

Celebrate International Year of the Cooperative at La Montanita Co-op: Annual Membership Gathering October 27, 5:30 – 9pm Warehouse 21, at the Railyard, Santa Fe

Enjoy great local food, learn about cooperatives worldwide from youth poets, musicians and artists affiliated with Warehouse 21 – and hear what's new at La Montanita Coop from Co-op Board of Directors and Staff! Free to all Coop members! lamontanita.coop

Learn about a wide array of topics related to small scale farming, artisan food businesses, and the local food system. localfoodnm.org

Go NUTS at the Mesilla Valley Maze with the 2012 New Mexico Pecan Festival and the Rootin’ Tootin’ Rib Cookoff. We have two days of nuts, nutty fun, nutty food, and even nutty art! nmpecanfestival.com

Offering a wide variety of cooking classes, instructional workshops, field to fork dining, and tasting experiences, Los Poblanos Inn offers something for young and old, visitor and local foodies alike. lospoblanos.com La Montanita Veteran Farmer Project Ongoing Alvarado Urban Farm and V.A. Campus, Albuquerque

Veterans and active service from all branches of the military and National Guard are welcome to participate in farming and gardening trainings scheduled throughout the fall and early winter, including, cold frame construction and year round gardening, running a market garden business, soil prep and more. For more information contact Robin Seydel at 505-217-2027 or toll free at 877775-2667 or robins@lamontanita.coop or John Shields at the V.A. at 505-256-6499. lamontanita.coop

New Mexico Pumpkin Festival October 6 – 7, 11am – 7pm Mesilla Valley Maze Family Fun Farm, Las Cruces

Local Food Festival and Field Day October 14, 11am — 4pm Gutierrez-Hubbell House in the South Valley

Agricultural Collaborative Meeting Third Wednesday of the month, 9 – 10:30am MidRegion Council of Governments Offices, 809 Copper Ave NW, Albuquerque

Cooking Classes & Field to Fork Dining Ongoing Los Poblanos Inn & Cultural Center, 4803 Rio Grande Blvd, Albuquerque

Bring in the harvest with villagers as they crush grapes for wine by foot, string chile ristras, make tortillas, bake fresh bread and much more! golondrinas.org

Taste of New Mexico October 13 – 14, 10am – 6pm Civic Plaza, Albuquerque Yum! Get your palates ready for a taste of Land of Enchantment cuisine accompanied by a sip of a New Mexico-originated wine or beer. bernco.gov

How to Feed Nine Billion People From the Ground Up: Soil, Seeds, Water, Plants, Livestock, Forests, Organics, and People. In this conference, we will explore a variety of innovative practices that are already successfully intensifying food production while preserving, maintaining, and restoring the natural world. Speakers will share their hands-on experience and ideas for feeding all life - from the ground up. quiviracoalition.org

New Mexico Pecan Festival October 27 – 28, 11am – 7pm 3855 W. Picacho, Las Cruces

El Rancho de los Golondrinas Harvest Festival October 6 – 7, 10am – 4pm El Rancho de los Golondrinas, Santa Fe

Join us for two days celebrating America's favorite gourd – the pumpkin. Fun for the whole family. newmexicopumpkinfestival.com

11th Annual Quivira Coalition Conference November 14 – 16, All day The Embassy Suites Hotel, Albuquerque

Building Local Food Systems w/ Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms (Santa Fe) November 9, 7–9pm Jemez Room, Santa Fe Community College 6401 Richards Ave, Santa Fe

Building a local food system with Joel Saltin (Food, Inc.) of Polyface Farms and Tom Delehanty of Pollo Real, Soccoro & Santa Fe Farmers Markets. Part of the Carbon Economy Series. carboneconomyseries.com

A Celebration of History, Culture and Farming. This event will be free and open to the public. localfoodnm.org

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edible Santa Fe · Summer 2012

last bite

Please contact Faylene Wytewa-Alire at 505-332-6871 to learn more about all the many volunteer opportunities and sign up this season. arcaorganics.com

edible Santa Fe 路 Summer 2012

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you are what you eat the artichoke cafe 424 Central SE, Central & Edith | Albuquerque Lunch Mon-Fri | Dinner Mon-Sun 505/243-0200 | www.artichokecafe.com

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