by Douglas Merriam and Nathaniel Tetsuro Paolinelli
Quarter Celtic Brewpub, Randall Watson, Noisy Water Winery, Steel Bender Brewyard, and Left Turn Distilling INDUSTRY TRENDS
A Force for Good by Sophie Putka
FERMENTI'S PARADOX
A Natural Pairing by Kristina Hayden Bustamante
KITCHEN NOTES
Mosaic Menu by Nina Katz CHEF
THE ART OF SOURCING LOCALLY by Lynn Cline
BEETS THREE WAYS by Israel Rivera
SPRING SALAD WITH GREEN GODDESS DRESSING by Mark Kiffin
SUNCHOKE AGNOLOTTI WITH ARUGULA PESTO by Weston Ludeke
NEW MEXICAN PECAN BACON BREAD DARK CHOCOLATE POT DE CRÈME TART by Marybeth and Meagan Higgins NOCHE NEGRA NEGRONI
Brianna Barajas, server at Prairie Star Restaurant, photo by Nathaniel Tetsuro Paolinelli.
Restaurants
At its finest, a restaurant is a dance—like traffic in Rome, where pedestrians thread gracefully between vehicles, cars floating halfway in one lane, halfway in another. And it always seems impossible, and indescribably beautiful, that nothing has gone wrong; that no one has fallen, that the movement has not halted. The knife hasn’t slipped; the sauce hasn’t broken; the duck hasn’t scorched. Someone might miss their cue, but small mistakes—at least in the absence of tyrants—disappear into the astonishing continuity of the dance. Slow days, the lull between setting up and service, are part of the dance as well. So is the last rack of dishes, the errant plate left for the next shift to wash.
In this issue of edible New Mexico, we consider the restaurant. This is not an index of local restaurants or a best-of reel; it’s an exploration of the people and the choreography. Sommelier Kristina Hayden Bustamante reflects on the rules of wine and when to break them with a visit to Paloma, and Nina Katz offers a taste of menu development with a trip to Alkemē. Chef Israel Rivera recommends where to eat New Mexican in Albuquerque, based not only on the quality of the food but on the quality of the vibe. (He’s also one of the local chefs and bakers whose recipes you’ll find, like a trail of inspiration, throughout the issue.) We learn, too, about M’tucci’s adoption of a four-day workweek. Local Heroes featured in these pages (and in the latest editions of our podcast, 5-Minute Fridays) include pastry chef Randall Watson, winner of the 2024 Spotlight Award for Back of House.
With our feature stories, we delve into the steps of the dance that take place offstage. In one, Lynn Cline digs into the art of local sourcing, talking with a few northern New Mexico chefs and restaurateurs who take their ingredients quite seriously. In another, Ungelbah Dávila writes about the role digital platforms play in the rise of modern Indigenous food businesses. And we could not consider the restaurant without considering the people who most often go unnamed: In a photo feature, we peek behind the curtain with back-of-house shots captured by Douglas Merriam and Nathaniel Tetsuro Paolinelli. The next time you’re being whirled through a restaurant meal, consider that you, too, are part of this performance.
Briana Olson, Editor
Robin Babb, Associate Editor
Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers
PUBLISHERS
Bite Size Media, LLC
Stephanie and Walt Cameron
EDITOR
Briana Olson
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Robin Babb
COPY EDITORS
Marie Landau and Margaret Marti
DESIGN AND LAYOUT
Stephanie Cameron
PHOTO EDITOR
Stephanie Cameron
EVENT COORDINATOR
Natalie Donnelly
PUBLISHING ASSISTANT
Cristina Grumblatt
CONTACT US info@ediblenm.com
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Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible New Mexico six times a year. We distribute throughout New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Subscribe online at ediblenm.com/subscribe
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ROBIN BABB is the associate editor of edible New Mexico and The Bite. Previously, she was the food editor at the Weekly Alibi (RIP). Robin is an MFA student in creative writing at the University of New Mexico. She lives in Albuquerque with a cat named Chicken and a dog named Birdie.
KRISTINA HAYDEN BUSTAMANTE has built a career sharing what she has learned about wine with nearly everyone she meets. For more than two decades, she has crossed the country, working from New York City to Los Angeles, and is now happily resettled in her adopted hometown of Santa Fe, where she is the wine director and sommelier at the historic Palace restaurant.
STEPHANIE CAMERON was raised in Albuquerque and earned a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. She is the art director, head photographer, recipe tester, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible New Mexico and The Bite
LYNN CLINE is the award-winning author of The Maverick Cookbook: Iconic Recipes and Tales From New Mexico. She’s written for Bon Appétit, the New York Times, New Mexico Magazine, and many other publications. She also hosts Cline’s Corner, a weekly talk show on public radio’s KSFR 101.1 FM.
UNGELBAH DÁVILA lives in Valencia County with her daughter, animals, and flowers. She is a writer, photographer, and digital Indigenous storyteller.
BRIANA OLSON is a writer and the editor of edible New Mexico and The Bite. She lives in Albuquerque.
DOUGLAS MERRIAM is a travel and lifestyle photographer with a passion for anything food related. He published Farm Fresh Journey, The Santa Fe Farmers Market Cookbook in 2017, and gives the market a percentage of every book sold.
NATHANIEL TETSURO PAOLINELLI is a fine art documentary photographer, rooted in Albuquerque since he was just nine months old. While his travels have taken him around the globe, no place holds his heart like New Mexico. It is here, amid rugged landscapes and vibrant communities, that he feels most connected and creates his most meaningful work. As both an observer and a participant in its ongoing story, Paolinelli aims to celebrate the diversity of New Mexico as a profound source of strength and identity.
SOPHIE PUTKA is a part-time food writer and mushroom farmer. In other lives, she has been a barista, nanny, salon receptionist, outdoor educator, camp cook, and medical journalist. She lives in Albuquerque with her dog Iggy.
ISRAEL RIVERA is one of New Mexico’s top chefs, blending the bold flavors of New Mexico and Mexico with modern techniques. With over twenty years of experience, the chef-owner of The Shop Breakfast & Lunch has earned multiple accolades, including edible New Mexico’s Local Hero Award for Chef, Albuquerque, and Albuquerque The Magazine’s Best Chef. Chef Rivera is also a rarely defeated champion in local cooking competitions and has appeared on Food Network’s Beat Bobby Flay and Chopped.
Justin Kissinger, tournant chef at Campo at Los Poblanos, photo by Douglas Merriam. Photo essay on page 64.
'Chimayó Tradition Green Chile Cornbread': A Taste of New Mexico Heritage
Imagine transforming a simple cornbread mix into a masterpiece of New Mexican flavors that brings generations together. That's what you'll experience with Chimayó Tradition Green Chile Cornbread. When that golden, chile-studded crust emerges from your oven, you're not just baking cornbread – you're creating moments to remember.
"The first time I made this cornbread," says Elena Martinez, a third-generation Chimayó home baker, "the aroma took me right back to my grandmother's kitchen. The way the flame-roasted green chile weaves through every bite—it's pure New Mexico magic."
Our mix isn't just another cornbread recipe; it's a celebration of regional flavors where sweet meets heat, where
tradition meets innovation. Each batch carries the soul of New Mexico's cherished chile fields.
Find us at your local grocery store and transform your family table into a celebration of New Mexican flavor.
LOCAL HEROES
An edible Local Hero is an exceptional individual, business, or organization making a positive impact on New Mexico’s food systems. These honorees nurture our communities through food, service, and socially and environmentally sustainable business practices.
Edible New Mexico readers nominate and vote for their favorite local chefs, growers, artisans, advocates, and other food professionals in two dozen categories. Winners of the Olla and Spotlight Awards are nominated by readers and selected by the edible team. Over the course of the year, we invite these Local
Episode 14: A Bit of Irish for Whatever Ales You
For nine years, Quarter Celtic Brewpub has been serving up elevated bar food and awardwinning beer. In this episode, we talk with owner Ror McKeown, head brewer Brady McKeown, and head chef Niccolas Lux. They emphasize they are "quarter" Celtic, so you won't just find outstanding fish and chips and shepherd's pie on the menu but also fried green chile strips and poutine.
Episode 15:
Can You Make Me a Clover Panna Cotta?
From TVI to CIA, Randall Watson has had quite the journey to get to his position as pastry chef at Farm & Table. He creates pastries and desserts that are low in sugar but high in flavor. In this episode, we chat with Watson about the changing season and the ingredients that inspire what is on the dessert menu.
Episode 16: Super New Mexican
How does an Italian find himself opening a winery in Ruidoso? Jasper Riddle of Noisy Water tells us about his path to becoming a vintner, grower, and prolific wine producer.
Heroes to share their stories and visions for the local foodshed on our podcast, 5-Minute Fridays. In every issue of edible, we share a taste of our conversations and links to the episodes.
5-Minute Fridays is a podcast that highlights edible New Mexico’s Local Heroes. Every Friday, we share food stories served up with a side of levity—and no, no episode is actually five minutes. We have a blast while discovering new ways to think about and understand the food and drink that lands on our tables and getting to know the people who put it there.
Riddle also shares how he and his town are faring as they recover from the 2024 South Fork Fire.
Episode 17: At the End of the Day, You Deserve a Beer
From the diverse beer list to the posh pub food to the dynamic atmosphere, Steel Bender Brewyard has become a community staple in Los Ranchos de Albuquerque. In this episode, we sit down with some of the brew crew: Ben Lenetsky, head brewer, and co-owners Ethan and Shelby Chant. They tell us all about their brewing process and how they embrace the industrial aspects of “steel benders” throughout their brand.
Episode 18: I Should Have Made a Left Turn at Albuquerque
On top of the story behind Left Turn Distilling, we get a history lesson on prohibition, cocktails, and Old Tom Gin. In this episode, we talk with owner and distiller Brian Langwell, who has been chasing Bugs Bunny since he was a kid and, along the way, found his way into spirits. Left Turn is the oldest distillery in Albuquerque and is creating more than your typical gin, whiskey, and vodka.
Listen at ediblenm.com/podcast or wherever you get your podcasts.
5-Minute
Experience the renewal of spring.
From the first golden daffodils to the bright blooms of fruit trees and the timeless beauty of peonies in the Rose Greeley Garden, spring on the farm is full of fresh inspiration. Our farmers are busy planting while the culinary team eagerly anticipates the first tender asparagus, spring greens and the abundance to come.
Experience the season with a luxurious stay at our historic inn, recently recognized with two MICHELIN Keys. Relax with botanically-based treatments at the Hacienda Spa, savor award-winning Rio Grande Valley Cuisine at Campo, or host an unforgettable celebration at La Quinta. However you choose to enjoy this special time of year, Los Poblanos offers an extraordinary New Mexican experience in a setting like no other.
“The dreamy Albuquerque farm that might make you rethink your life.”
Visit lospoblanos.com
—Vogue
“A
GASTROPUB Quarter Celtic Brewpub
A Conversation with Niccolas Lux, Head Chef, Brady McKeown, Head Brewer and Co-owner, and Ror McKeown, Co-Owner
gastropub is a scratch kitchen, elevated comfort food, good beer, and an atmosphere where it is comfortable to hang out and fun to go to. Honestly, we are a brewery, but people come here for the food.”
Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
Photo by Eric O'Connell
SPOTLIGHT
AWARD: BACK OF HOUSE
Randall Watson
A Conversation with the Pastry Chef at Farm & Table
“Iwanted to find a place to work where we could be a family. And what I really love about being at Farm & Table is it challenges my creativity to stay local.”
Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
BEVERAGE ARTISAN, WINE
Noisy Water Winery
A Conversation with Jasper Riddle, Owner and Winemaker
“M
y style is fruit expression. I want to show varietal characteristics, and I want the oak to be nuanced and integrated—I really want to showcase the fruit, and that is the fruit grower in me.”
Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
photo: Gabriella Marks
LOCAL HEROES
BEVERAGE ARTISAN, BEER Steel Bender Brewyard
A Conversation with Ben Lenetsky, Head Brewer, and Ethan and Shelby Chant, Co-owners
“W
e want to have solid house beers, but we also want to experiment—it gives the beer geeks something new to try, and it keeps our brewers interested in the process and developing new recipes.”
Back row (left to right): production team members Kolton Huerta, Ben Lenetsky, Scott Cesarz, Cameron Wright, Rowan McKay, and Kristy Bounds (Monica Mondragon not pictured). Front row: co-owners Ethan Chant and Shelby Chant. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
BEVERAGE ARTISAN, SPIRITS
Left Turn Distilling
A Conversation with Brian Langwell, Owner
“N ine months, seventy test batches, and thirteen botanicals later, I came up with a gin I like to drink . . . my Old Tom Gin.”
Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
Unforgettable Serve
Aged even more Aged
Made with care
Crafted in Spain
THE EXCELLENCE OF EUROPEAN D.O. CAVA AND JAMÓN CONSORCIOSERRANO
Crafted in Spain, perfected by time
In a world that often prioritizes speed over substance, there remains proof that good things, and excellent taste, take time. D.O. Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are two such treasures, each representing a unique blend of Spanish tradition and taste created with time and perfected over centuries.
Cava has earned its place among the world’s finest sparkling wines, yet it remains wonderfully versatile. Whether paired with a simple salad, a casual meal or a celebratory toast, Cava brings a touch of elegance to every occasion. What makes Cava de Guarda Superior unique is that it is produced using the traditional method where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.
This meticulous process, lasting a minimum of 18 months, is carefully overseen by the D.O. Cava regulatory body, ensuring that each bottle upholds the highest standards of quality and authenticity. Made from organic vineyards that are over 10 years old, Cava de Guarda Superior reveals its craftsmanship with every pour. As the delicate, harmonious bubbles rise to the surface, you can truly appreciate the time and care it took to perfect them!
Similarly, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is more than just a drycured ham. This exquisite product is made using traditional curing
methods which takes a minimum of 12 months to deliver a delicate and rich flavor. Each production is upheld to the rigorous standards of the Consorcio del Jamón Serrano Español, which ensures that every piece of Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bearing the seal is of exceptional quality. Like Cava, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is not merely an accompaniment to festive tables; it is a versatile delight that can elevate everyday meals with its complex flavors and delicate texture.
Both Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are perfect examples of how time-honored craftsmanship, underpinned by the European Union’s commitment to quality and tradition, creates products that are unmatched in their category. They are not just crafted in Spain; they are perfected by time, offering a taste of excellence that is both accessible and extraordinary. Whether enjoyed on a special occasion or as part of your daily life, Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bring the best of Europe to your table.
Learn more on our website
A FORCE FOR GOOD
M’TUCCI’S FOUR-DAY WORKWEEK
By Sophie Putka
In the winter of last year, John Haas and Howie Kaibel of M’tucci’s Restaurants found themselves in a scenario they could have never imagined: talking with Vermont Senator Bernie Sanders’s staff about legislation that could one day turn American work life upside down.
Sanders’s team wanted to discuss with Haas and Kaibel a new policy they had implemented at their restaurants: the four-day workweek. The senator was introducing a bill in Congress that could mandate a thirty-two-hour workweek nationwide, and he wanted to know if they could come to DC to speak at some hearings. The bill stalled out in a House committee, but Haas, M’tucci’s cofounder and president, and Kaibel, their minister of culture and brand manager, had their own workplace transformation to focus on.
Early in 2022, M’tucci’s introduced a four-day workweek across
the company, which now boasts four restaurants, one speakeasy, a catering company, and a commissary kitchen, all located in the greater Albuquerque metro area. Only salaried employees—around forty chefs, managers, and other support staff—would follow the new schedule. As Haas explained to me, hourly restaurant staff already had fairly flexible schedules and could set their own availability.
Still, the move was a rarity in the restaurant world, known for its long hours and high burnout rates, even among full-time staff and management. Haas himself was a veteran of the industry before cofounding M’tucci’s with Katie Gardner and the late Jeff Spiegel in 2013. For fifteen of his twenty-eight years in restaurants, Haas said he worked eighty to one hundred hours a week, sacrificing a lot of life along the way. He dreamed about a day he might cut back to even four twelve-hour days.
Coffee service by bartender Abby Sadler at M'tucci's Bar Roma, photo by Walt Cameron.
“I saw everyone giving their life to their job, and it’s like, for what, you know? And I don’t say that to take what we do lightly,” Haas said. “But . . . we’re not performing brain surgery, we’re not sending astronauts into space, we’re a privately owned business that’s creating food and experiences for people, and more importantly, we’re trying to create a culture and a lifestyle that’s healthy for people that are a part of the company.”
Then the pandemic struck the service industry like a bolt of lightning. M’tucci’s was no exception, Haas said. Suddenly, the company, which had only recently opened M’tucci’s Twenty-Five, their third restaurant location, ground to a halt. Haas and other leadership were left scrambling to come up with new business ideas and to keep their existing staff on board for as long as possible.
“It kind of put things into perspective for me, and then, in turn, [I] felt like I needed to do the same for others,” said Haas, who had been toying with the idea of a shorter work week for a long time. “Because one of the best things about our company was everyone was just insanely motivated, and will work their asses off. And that is such a gift, but at the same time, I learned we have to protect people from that too.”
One day, Haas read an article in the New York Times about a New Zealand company that had successfully implemented a thirty-twohour work week. In late 2021, Haas and Kaibel sought the help of 4 Day Week Global, a nonprofit that conducts research and runs pilot programs designed to reduce working hours.
“[When] I told them we wanted in, they immediately perked up their ears,” Kaibel told me. “They said, ‘Well, an American restaurant company, that’s unusual.’ They couldn't even come up with another restaurant company around the world that was doing this.”
The organization checked in on Haas and Kaibel weekly and had them fill out surveys for their research, but the process wasn’t without its challenges. For one thing, industry veterans habitually work well over fifty hours a week. “We had to force our chefs to take time off because they were so used to [that],” Kaibel said.
More predictably, there were the practicalities of running multiple restaurants that were open seven days a week. They hired another manager to fill some gaps, and Haas said they had to ramp up communication significantly to ensure everyone was on the same page without intruding on their personal time. Three years in, and Haas said daily email recaps and notes left in their scheduling software have proven particularly useful.
Because of the demands of food service, the four-day rule doesn’t always go perfectly. Scheduling had to be given an overhaul, Haas said. Sometimes people end up working longer days, or covering shifts. But most of the salaried employees went from in excess of fifty hours a week to around forty, and Haas said he tries to ensure employees keep it as close to that as possible.
And for every hurdle, Haas has a saying: “FITFO,” or “Figure It the Fuck Out.”
Howie Kaibel and John Haas of M’tucci’s Restaurants, photo by Stephanie Cameron.
“Our industry can be very stubborn and slow to change . . . and I think that you just have to be willing to rethink the way you do it,” Haas said. “There’s always a solution, if you really think about it.”
The benefits two years in have been immeasurable, Kaibel and Haas said. Both noticed staff taking more trips with their free time. Employees return to work reenergized, moods lifted. A few, realizing they didn’t need to be in a restaurant office to do things like inventory and bookkeeping, started to work from home sometimes, welcoming more time spent with family. “The people are happy . . . I see people spending more free time or having side hobbies, having richer lives than they had before,” Haas said.
“It’s just so clear that they’re energized and ready to go every day that they’re at work,” Kaibel said. He added that he thinks their chefs, by dint of working fewer days themselves, began to allow kitchen staff to take on more responsibilities and exercise more creative freedom.
Both leaders said their turnover rate before the change, at 40 percent, was already significantly lower than the restaurant industry’s national average, which several sources put at well over 70 percent. But training new hires is costly in the long run, Kaibel said.
“I think some of our industry is really good at just chewing people up and spitting them out,” Haas added. “It’s like, grind them until they’re burnt out, and then find somebody else and replace them. But as much as people want to say people are replaceable, they’re not.”
In the six months after the four-day rule kicked in, Kaibel said, not a single employee left. Kaibel remembers Haas saying over lunch, “That’s unheard of.” The retention has remained high.
“Nobody wants to go back to five days,” Haas said.
Neither has noticed a big shift in productivity, which is tricky to measure, but they say it’s about the same. This is mostly consistent
with widespread trials that have found jumps in workplace satisfaction, with the same or increased productivity. In a recent trial of forty-one organizations implementing four-day workweeks in the US and Canada, revenue increased by 15 percent, on average. A 2022 UK trial with sixty-one organizations found that almost all planned to continue with the four-day workweek, and employee turnover went down nearly 60 percent.
Kaibel himself technically follows the modified schedule, but on average, he says he works five shorter days instead of four. “I’m not a strictly Monday through Friday person, and I’ll work for this company on weekends when it’s needed,” he said. “I give 100 percent when I’m in the office working for this company, and I take 100 percent breaks when I know that I have earned it.”
The local Italian chain’s four-day workweek has attracted national attention, including 2023 coverage from NPR’s TED Radio Hour, along with lots of local recognition. In 2023, they took home two community service awards—one from the New Mexico Restaurant Association and one from the New Mexico Public Relations Society of America—and in 2024, they won a New Mexico Ethics in Business Award.
Reduced work hours are just part of a long-running push to support employees. Apart from a host of health insurance benefits available to its employees, M’tucci’s also offers an after-school tutoring program for children of restaurant staff called M’tutoring (yes, really). Kaibel, a former employee of Yelp, heads up these initiatives.
As for Haas, does he follow the four-day schedule?
“I don’t,” he said, laughing. “If you’re a business owner and you have a four-day week, good for you. You’ve got it figured out.”
Left: Menu development with the M'tucci's team. Right: Cook Gladis Vargas working the deli slicer at Bar Roma. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.
A Natural Pairing
By Kristina Hayden Bustamante · Photos by Stephanie Cameron
I love rules, but in the world of wine they are always changing. Having worked in this business for more than two decades, I have spent most of that time learning and unlearning these rules. One of the most enjoyable parts of being a sommelier has always been helping a guest select the perfect wine to pair with their meal, and of course there is a rule for that. I think that we all know the “white wine with fish and red wine with meat” adage. It is a hard one to let go.
When someone hears that I work in the wine business, they invariably ask me one question: “What was THE wine that changed your
life?” I always tell them that it wasn’t a particular wine but rather an unforgettable experience that I had many years ago while dining with friends.
I was having a marvelous dinner in New York and asked the sommelier to bring me an unusual wine to pair with my dinner. I had just begun to get interested in wine and was basically just memorizing grape names and wine regions; I really knew very little about wine pairing. On my plate was a simple pasta with garlic, olive oil, and Spanish anchovies. The sommelier brought me a glass of a very old
Two from a selection of natural wines at Copita Wine Bar in downtown Santa Fe.
vintage Rioja. This made no sense to me at the time, but she was a mentor of mine, so I accepted the glass. The pasta was incredible and the wine was beyond perfect. It was precisely this experience that showed me the special alchemy between food and wine, and it was pure magic. It also flew in the face of the age-old “white wine with fish” rule. I realized then that perhaps it wasn’t so much about the perfect pairing but more about the experience. I was in a beautiful restaurant, seated with close friends who were all just starting their careers in wine. We were open to just about anything. Still, the more I learned about wine, the more I got lost in the rules. Only recently have I found my way back.
Nowadays, whether or not to drink natural wine can be as contentious as whether or not to pour an oaked red with fish. For some, the rule is to drink only natural wine; for others, the rule is never to touch it. But what is natural wine, exactly? According to Wikipedia, natural wine is simply wine produced without the use of pesticides or herbicides, with few or no additives. These wines are rarely filtered and are made with very minimal intervention. It sounds perfect and I suppose in some ways it is. Yet I have often been unsure of myself when it comes to pairing natural wines with food. They can be quite bold and flavorful in a way that is unfamiliar to many consumers, and sometimes pairing them is a challenge. For many wine drinkers, it can be difficult to even determine whether or not they are good.
Am I going to tell you about the natural wine that changed my life or my opinion of natural wines as a class? No; I’m going to tell you about another unforgettable meal. The dish was the lamb posole at Paloma (which, by the way, was ranked by the New York Times as one of the twenty-six best dishes of 2024 in the United States). I asked for an unusual pairing and that is exactly what I got. It was a natural wine from Argentina, a blend of at least five indigenous grapes that even I was mostly unfamiliar with.
Paloma’s beverage director, Carley Callis, is the person who really opened my eyes to the culture of natural wines. Marja Martin opened Paloma in downtown Santa Fe in 2017, and it has been a crowd favorite ever since. Besides the incredibly fresh and inventive spins on Oaxacan cuisine, there is a dedication to the philosophy and ethics of natural wine that I think is incredibly daring in a town like Santa Fe. As a long time Angeleno, I am more than familiar with the trend of natural wines—but is natural wine merely a trend? I do not believe that it is. This is a style of winemaking that is as old as winemaking itself, and Paloma’s dedication to building a program around natural wines deserves some serious attention.
It is rare that I meet someone so articulate and dedicated to their craft as Callis. In her spare time, she studies scent and perfume. Her understanding of how different aspects of scent combine relates directly to her understanding of wine. We “taste” wine predomi-
Paloma’s beverage director, Carley Callis, pouring wine at Copita.
nantly with our nose, and Callis has an instinctual ability to create the enchanting alchemy between food and wine. I asked her how she goes about choosing bottles for the restaurant and its sister wine bar, Copita, which opened in 2023 and is a total charmer. She told me that she doesn’t put a lot of stock in the classic rules of wine pairing. According to those rules, I might have been offered the ripe, full-bodied Canopus Malbec de Sed, but instead I was poured a glass of the El Montañista Corte de Tintas. It was fresh and energetic with vivacious bright red fruit—the complete opposite of what I expected would work. It was a frigid winter night in Santa Fe, but I felt like I was eating my posole on a beach or street-side patio in Mexico.
Unusual pairings are Callis’s favorites and start with wines that she is currently obsessed with. She describes them in such a wonderfully nontraditional way that a guest is simply compelled to try them. “I want to get away from the apparatus of the wine world and get into the more sensual and somatic,” she explained. “The whole language of wine is changing.” She asks questions and often plays games with her guests to better understand what they might enjoy, and that thoughtfulness and care for her guests is what hospitality is truly
about. Inevitably, she discovers what the guest is curious about and the whole idea of the classic wine pairing becomes more of a personal journey and less of a chemistry lesson. Joining a new generation of wine drinkers and sommeliers, she helps her guests find their own way when it comes to wine, a shift that’s long overdue. At Paloma, Callis breaks the rules and gives the guests what they are truly after, and it turns out that what many of us long for is an experience.
Often, the unexpected is key to that experience. With Paloma’s cocktails, what’s surprising may appear clearly on the menu—Lapsang souchong whiskey, for instance, or a martini made with seaweed. With wine, I have discovered some of the most interesting pairings with the help of a guide. Sometimes even a professional sommelier needs to be reminded that trying new things is part of the path to finding out what we like, and that, rules or no rules, we should always err toward drinking what we enjoy.
Cheers to breaking the rules!
Copita Wine Bar, 403 S Guadalupe, Santa Fe Paloma, 401 S Guadalupe, Santa Fe, 505-467-8624
Left: A glass of Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées Roussanne on the patio at Copita. Right: Inside Copita Wine Bar; Callis pouring a glass of Quinta from the Georgian winery Pheasant’s Tears.
Chef Bila Conchas
Beets Three Ways
By Israel Rivera, owner and executive chef at The Shop Breakfast & Lunch
Beets are the perfect vegetarian comfort food. They love cool weather, so they’re a good crop in spring and fall (and they usually last through the winter too). These three recipes prove that beets can hit more notes than they usually get credit for. As a bonus, they can all riff off one another; you can pickle any leftover braised beets, and you can use the leftover braising liquid to make a delicious vinaigrette.
Since he was fifteen years old, Israel (Izz) Rivera has been working in kitchens in his hometown of Albuquerque. A high school dropout with no formal culinary education, Rivera says he learned the ropes from “awesome chefs who I worked for over the years and who inspired me to travel and learn as much as I can.” After two years as the sous-chef at The Artichoke Cafe, in 2014 Rivera opened his own restaurant, The Shop Breakfast and Lunch, in Albuquerque’s Nob Hill neighborhood.
MAPLE-BRAISED BEETS
About 6 beets (enough to fill a 2-quart, 8x8-inch pan or baking dish)
3/4 cup maple syrup
3/4 cup red wine
3/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon salt
Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut the green tops and bottoms off the beets so that they stand upright in a baking dish. Add maple syrup, red wine, and apple cider vinegar. Add salt and enough water so that the beets are about 80 percent covered by the braising liquid. Roast, uncovered, until soft (about 2–3 hours).
Peel skins off beets while still warm; don’t burn yourself. Chop into small squares or slice into disks, depending on how you are using them. (At The Shop, we use these in our beet salad as well as our veggie mac and cheese. If this recipe makes more beets than you can use in the next few days, you can always pickle the leftovers using the brine; see below.)
PICKLED BEETS
3 braised beets, sliced 1/4 inch thick
1/2 cup vinegar (any will do)
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 tablespoon sugar
1/2 tablespoon each toasted mustard seed, coriander, and black peppercorns
Pack a 12-ounce jar with prepared beets. Bring remaining ingredients to a boil to dissolve salt and sugar. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature, then pour over veggies and refrigerate. They will be ready to eat the next day. Eat these straight out of the jar, add them to a pickle plate, pair them with goat cheese and watercress on a sandwich—the list goes on. And if you don’t feel like braising beets, you can make these pickles with boiled beets; just boil for fifteen minutes, slice thin, and proceed with the recipe.
BEET VINAIGRETTE
1/2 cup braising liquid from the Maple-Braised Beets above
1/2 tablespoon dijon or whole grain mustard
Juice of 1 lime
2 cloves garlic
1/2 shallot, chopped
Pinch of salt
About 1 cup olive oil
In a blender, add all ingredients except oil and blend well. While the blender is running, drizzle in olive oil until fully emulsified and the balance of flavors and thickness is to your liking Use this vinaigrette for all the lovely springtime greens!
A MOSAIC MENU
CUISINES COMINGLE AT ALKEMĒ
By Nina Katz · Photos by Stephanie Cameron
I can’t remember the last time I heard the f-word in a restaurant setting. No, I don’t mean “foodie.” I’m talking about “fusion.” In the nineties, “fusion” was everywhere, emblazoning restaurants, menus, and cookbooks. It was a branding strategy that turned into a marketing cliché, and yet the term spoke to a long-standing part of the
human experience—the comingling of different cuisines. Through trade routes, war, colonization, and immigration, globalization has authenticated the likes of potatoes in Irish stews and pancakes, American cheese atop Korean tteokbokki, and roasted green chile on a cheeseburger.
Bún chà Hà Nội: grilled pork slices and pork patties served with warm broth of fish sauce, lime, and garlic, paired with the Fire Horse cocktail.
At Alkemē (pronounced “Alchemy”) at Open Kitchen in downtown Santa Fe, you’ll taste the melding and matching of Vietnamese, Taiwanese, Korean, and Hawaiian Pacific Rim, but you won’t see the word “fusion” thrown around. So, what to call this restaurant that blends and spins a menu together?
Chef-owner Hue-Chan Karels and executive chef–general manager Erica Tai call it “culture-to-table.” A play on the well-loved “farm-totable,” the phrase is Karels and Tai’s suggestion that it’s not just about where food is grown, but why. As the restaurant’s name suggests, Alkemē achieves their culture-to-table concept by bringing a dining experience to Santa Fe that’s “rooted in tradition, transformed by magic.”
“Maybe it’s just semantic, but once upon a time, the word ‘fusion’ was hot,” Karels says, reflecting on her long history in and around culinary spaces, as we chat, along with Tai, before a busy night of service. “Over time, [the term] took on a superficial meaning by people who weren’t using it with intention. Yes, the dishes at Alkemē are the fusing of two or three or even four different cultures and their flavors together, but we see it as transformation.” Alkemē has been making the intermix make sense in a modern context since they opened their doors in 2023.
Nearly fifty years earlier, on April 30, 1975, just a few days after Karels’s ninth birthday, Saigon fell, the Vietnam War ended, and one of the largest waves of Vietnamese immigrants took refuge across the United States. Karels and her family were a part of that migration, eventually landing in Michigan, where she spent the rest of her childhood. Karels has held her heritage close to her heart, particularly with the opening of her culinary events hub, Open Kitchen (first in Washington, DC, before she moved the operation to Santa Fe), and now Alkemē, occupying the same space.
Tai grew up in Taiwan, went to high school in Hawaii, and ended up in New Mexico for college. After studying culinary arts at Santa Fe Community College, Tai went on to gain a master of science in nutrition from the University of New Mexico.
“It’s destiny, I think, that brought me to New Mexico, because the traditions carried on here for hundreds of years inspire me to connect with my roots in Taiwan,” says Tai. Like Karels, she makes annual visits to her home country, where these days, she pays extra attention to how her grandmother prepares whole fish or garlic fermented in honey. “I am glad to be in a town where culture is so important.” Perhaps it was destiny, but practically, it was Tai’s aunt, a nun at a
Fried butterflied branzino with Vietnamese sweet and sour sauce, paired with the Green Solis cocktail.
Taos monastery, who suggested she might like New Mexico. When I asked what her aunt does at the monastery, Tai’s answer, of course, is that she runs the kitchen.
“We see our lives mosaicked in our menu,” says Karels about what’s cooking at Alkemē. It’s not random that tuna poke, Taiwanese steamed gua bao buns, and Vietnamese rice crepes are all up for grabs. The fried butterflied branzino comes in a pool of sweet and sour sauce, which Tai explains as a transformation of canh chua cá (Vietnamese sweet and sour fish soup). Poke is served in golden spheres of pani puri (Indian fried hollow puffs). The bún chả Hà Nội (northern Vietnamese grilled pork and pork patties with rice noodles in a savory broth) is poured table side, one of Alkemē’s many fine dining moves, a nod to a robust fine dining scene in Ho Chi Minh City.
“There’s nothing wrong with opening a phở shop, but that’s not my life,” says Karels about her desire to showcase an elevated experience of Vietnamese food, and pan-Asian cuisine generally, that Americans are not as familiar with. South of Alkemē’s Santa Fe home base, Albuquerque is home to a larger enclave of Asian Americans, specifically Vietnamese, as well as a plethora of mom-and-pop
phở and báhn mì cafés and restaurants. “We wanted to embark on a new, challenging journey.”
For those interested in embarking on a journey of their own, Karels leads one- to two-week culinary tours every November through northern and central Vietnam. These “Culinary Escapades” take patrons through major cities and rural farming communities, tasting foods from many generations of chefs. From the coconut groves of the Mê Kông Delta to the silk lantern–covered ceilings of Hội An, Karels looks forward to sharing her deep knowledge and love for her home country all year. Tai is also provided time to visit home as part of her position at Alkemē. “Going home reminds me that I need to slow down and connect with my roots. It allows me to better bring the flavors of Taiwan to Santa Fe.”
“We transport people,” says Karels. “For the time that they are eating here, they feel like they are away from Santa Fe for a little bit.” Sounds like a nice way to get out of town to me.
Alkemē, 227 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe, 505-982-9704, alkeme-santafe.com
Left: Chef-owner Hue-Chan Karels and executive chef–general manager Erica Tai at Alkemē. Right: Hawaiian off-the-hook tuna poke in pani puri, paired with the Seed & Smoke cocktail.
Izz’s Guide to Strictly New Mexican Dining in Albuquerque
By Israel Rivera Photos by Stephanie Cameron
Full disclosure, I am purposefully leaving out the restaurant that I own and operate, The Shop Breakfast & Lunch (located at 2933 Monte Vista Boulevard NE, in case you want to stop by), in order to write a fairer and more impartial guide, unbiased and true.
Everyone has their own list of go-to spots for New Mexican; some people have their one spot. No matter what you say, someone (or a group of someones) will say you’re wrong.
But hear me out: I grew up here, learned to cook here, and learned to appreciate what we have after years of complaining about it.
No list is complete without starting with Frontier Restaurant. Yes, I know, cliché, isn’t it? But I dare you to tell me I’m lying. You can’t. Seriously, when was the last time you sat down at the Frontier? You walked through those doors to that warm, dawn-colored glow, only to be greeted once again by the familiar smell of fresh tortillas cooking
Green chile cheeseburger, smothered breakfast burrito, posole, and hashbrowns at Frontier Restaurant.
not more than fifteen feet away. That slight anxiety you feel when the light turns green and you’re still not 100 percent sure what you are going to order, but, like the very simple Spanish you learned in high school, it comes to you just when you need it most. It’s New Mexican to the bone. It’s old, it’s old school, it knows what it is and what it isn’t, and it doesn’t change (except for the lack of twenty-four-hour service since 2006, but as someone who’s seen the inside of Frontier’s dining room at 2 am, that might not be a bad thing). It’s comfortable, and everyone is welcome. Isn’t that what we want? Comforting food? Food that truly speaks to our soul? Frontier sets the bar. It IS the bar. It hits all the marks. Green chile cheeseburger? Check. Green chile stew? Check. Posole? Check. Breakfast burritos? Fuck yes. It’s what we love, the way we love it, for a fair price. It’s a staple for a reason and we ALL love it, whether you’ve forgotten that or not.
Next up—Mesa Provisions. Is Chef Steve a friend? Hell yeah. But is he one of the Southwest’s best chefs? Also hell yeah. At Mesa, Chef Steve Riley is giving us a glimpse of what New Mexican food can be, dare I say, what it ought to be. When most of us think of local cuisine, we imagine simple, warming, hearty, loving food, cooked low and slow, enough to feed everyone who happens to catch a whiff. What is happening at Mesa Provisions is a clear and necessary next step. To
elevate our cuisine and show it off to the world. To sit at the big kids’ table, knowing damn well we deserve to be there.
Chef is cooking with all the love, soul, and warmth that you’d expect from your aunts or grandparents, cooking with flavors because “that’s how my mom did it,” then taking all his expertise and technique to create something new, yet familiar. Everything is intentional. And everything reminds you of home, from the colors on the plates to the landscape paintings hanging on the walls. Color palettes that can only exist in the Duke City. Flavors that can only be created here. Smells that are as comforting as rain on adobe. And yet every meal at Mesa leaves one surprised and asking, “Man, why didn’t I think of that?” (Well, that’s what I leave thinking.) The man is making duckfat tortillas. Even if you didn’t know that when you ate them, you’d love them. If you could buy them by the dozen at Smith’s and make little quesadillas with them after school just how you used to, or maybe still do, they’d be the best quesadillas you’ve had in a while. The pork osso buco is something you’d order on name alone, but when that first bite hits, you realize it’s the most tender, delicious, fresh, and perfectly spiced bowl of posole you’ve ever had. The menu is seasonal, things change—I can’t tell you what to order in April. Just go, tell them I sent you; they’ll take care of you.
Left: Steak tartare tostada with salsa seca, beef tenderloin, jalapeño, radish, and cilantro at Mesa Provisions. Right: Charred turnips with almond, garlic chile oil, lemon aioli, and crispy onion.
SIP / SAVOR / SPA / SPRING INTO A STAYCATION
Now, some of you may be reading this and thinking “Hmm, all these spots are Nob Hill adjacent; doesn’t he venture outside his own neighborhood?” Sometimes, but honestly, where do you expect me to go? The Heights?
Comfortably tucked into one of our many glorious strip malls, Eloy’s New Mexican Restaurant is a friendly smile at the end of a shitty day. What sets Eloy’s apart is one simple thing: a personal connection. I know you get it. You have a place like this too. The spot you and your family have been going to since you were a kid. For me, it’s my partner’s family’s place. We walk into an alwayswarm dining room with wooden beams across the entrances, almost like an old church, with what look like antique wooden chairs and tables to match, with everything you’d expect on them—salt, pepper, coffee creamers, and, of course, honey in a squeeze bottle. Pretty much without fail, we’re greeted with an enthusiastic smile and a question: “Hi, mija! How’s your Grandpa Ray doing? I know things
have been hard since Lucy passed. I threw in an extra quart of salsa for you guys. You still like it extra spicy, right?”
That’s it. That’s what makes this place special. Every time we walk in, the owner asks, “How’s business going? How are the doggies? And your sisters?” She’s not just asking to ask; she cares. THAT’s New Mexican. That’s what makes us who we are. Our shared experience of being here, and having been here, our connection to each other, our natural need to take care of our own and show our love in countless ways. And she just happens to show her love with all the usual suspects: enchiladas, carne adovada, stuffed sopapillas, beans, rice, chips, and, of course, salsa. It’s so welcoming, comforting, and wholesome that it almost makes me want to call my own grandma and apologize for not seeing her since 2009. Almost.
Frontier Restaurant, 2400 Central SE, frontierrestaurant.com Mesa Provisions, 3120 Central SE, mesaprovisions.com Eloy’s New Mexican Restaurant, 1508 Wyoming NE
Carne adovada, stuffed sopapilla with ground beef and red chile, and sopapillas at Eloy’s New Mexican Restaurant.
Spring Salad with Green Goddess Dressing
By Mark Kiffin, owner of The Compound Restaurant
The great thing about this recipe is that you can mix and mingle the herbs and lettuces to match your taste. If you don’t care for cilantro, put in fresh dill. Seasonally, there should be local leaf lettuces, especially ones like arugula, baby spinach, and red romaine or oak leaf that also can be switched in and work perfectly for this salad. Use whatever light leafy greens you find at our amazing Santa Fe Farmers’ Market or wherever you buy local produce.
Chef Mark Kiffin is celebrating his twenty-fifth anniversary as owner of The Compound Restaurant, a cornerstone of the culinary landscape in Santa Fe, located in the Arts District on Canyon Road. The restaurant, renowned for its distinctive style and elegance, was a James Beard semifinalist for Outstanding Restaurant in 2024. Kiffin’s signature contemporary American menu combines New World influences with the culinary style and flavors of the Mediterranean, and The Compound is truly farm-to-table, with a seasonally evolving menu that focuses on regional and local ingredients.
DRESSING
2 scallions
1 teaspoon roasted garlic
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
1/4 cup pea shoots
1/4 cup basil leaves
1 avocado, ripe but still green
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
Juice of 1 medium lemon
3/4 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup grapeseed oil (or canola oil)
1/2 cup buttermilk
Salt and pepper, to taste
Place scallions, garlic, greens and herbs, avocado, vinegar, and lemon juice in a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer to a stainless steel bowl and stir in remaining ingredients. If the dressing is too thick, add a touch more buttermilk.
SALAD
Olive oil
4 ounces sourdough bread, torn into cubes
Kosher salt
1 head butter lettuce
4 ounces sugar snap peas
4 ounces radishes
2 baby cucumbers
2 scallions
1 avocado
Heat skillet over medium heat, add enough olive oil to coat the bottom, add torn bread, and continue to cook until lightly brown. Remove to paper towels.
Pull lettuce leaves apart and use a salad spinner or strainer to wash, drain, and dry the leaves.
Slice peas, radishes, cucumbers, and scallions. Mix prepared vegetables in a large bowl.
To serve, drizzle dressing over vegetables and toss, then arrange on chilled salad plates. Slice avocado and place around the salad.
out and about WITH The Bite
FIELD NOTES ON A FEW PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK
We’ve read that khao soi is the new pad thai, but the dish has been slow to make its way onto menus in the Land of Enchantment. You can now find it in Albuquerque: the newly opened SA Thai, near the corner of Holly and San Pedro, offers the probably Burmese-influenced egg-noodle-andcurry soup/stew/bowl (available with beef or the more traditional chicken) along with boat noodles, larb, and most of what Americans have come to expect from Thai restaurants, including, of course, pad thai.
Not yet, but Planty Sweet’s brick-andmortar is getting closer. They haven’t posted the exact location yet, but we can say that it will be in Barelas.
Sahara Middle Eastern Eatery owner Haytham Khalil has launched Sahara Sweets, a dessert business inspired by the Dubai chocolate trend on TikTok. They’re stocking two vending machines—one at Cottonwood Mall on Albuquerque’s Westside, the other at Santa Fe Place Mall—with the pistachio
bars, truffles, and such, but we recommend picking one up at the source.
Speaking of pastries: Becky Freeman has accepted the executive pastry chef position at both Coyote Cafe & Cantina and Santacafé in Santa Fe (both owned by Quinn Stephenson, in case you’re wondering how one job can be at two places). Somehow, she’ll also continue making magic at her pop-up bakery, Worn Whisk.
Florida-based chain Fiesta Azul Tequila House opened a satellite in Albuquerque last month in the spot that once held Liquid Assets, and we didn’t have to do much digging to determine that they serve at least five kinds of margaritas.
Meanwhile, another agave bar hitched up with Two Cranes Bistro, a hop and a skip from Hotel Albuquerque. Desperados has a tiny food menu and a few sotoles and mezcales alongside its lengthier selection of tequilas.
Bosque Brewing announced that, this spring, they’ll be opening a brunch joint called Smothered in the West Downtown building that housed Vinaigrette. No menu posted as of yet, though based on
the name alone, we have a decent idea of what one might expect.
Arepas el Pana recently opened in the little spot where Tuerta used to be. The Venezuelan eatery does breakfast and lunch during the week, with some evening hours too. Check their hours beforehand if you’re heading to downtown Albuquerque strictly to sample their stuffed arepas, empanadas, and tajadas (which you may know as maduros, or simply plantains).
Also in downtown Albuquerque, On the Route is settling into the spot at Fourth and Central that was most recently home to Brixens. No longer based strictly in downtown Albuquerque is Wing It Up. The fried chicken whizzes have decided to pivot back to a food truck model, with a weekly schedule that has bounced from Brew Lab 101 in Rio Rancho to Marble to Gravity Bound to the Cookies dispensary on Broadway.
And no longer based anywhere is AmerAsia/Sumo Sushi, whose original location on Cornell was much beloved. The downtown Albuquerque spot they’ve been in since 2007 has now been fitted with a cannabis dispensary. If you’re looking for another place to get dim sum, try Ming Dynasty.
Wing It Up.
Planty Sweet.
Coyote Cafe, photo by Becky Freeman.
Even more crushing is the closure of the Pop-Up Dumpling House at Talin Market. No more ordering handmade dumplings and pickled cucumbers to pick up at the end of a shopping excursion.
Sassella had to shut their doors for an emergency maintenance issue on December 13, and, at press time, they’re still closed. In the meantime, Chef Cristian Pontiggia has been named a semifinalist for Best Chef: Southwest in this year’s James Beard Awards.
The team behind New Mexico Hard Cider opened a new venue in Santa Fe: the Time Travelers Gastropub. They serve mushy peas with their fish and chips, put English peas in their cottage pie, and offer a choose-your-ownadventure approach to the kids’ menu.
The City Different also has a new deli, but (at least so far) only on Thursdays. We’ve yet to stop in, but we can affirm that the menu at the Manhattan Avenue Deli holds up to its name.
We dropped into Española’s old charmer El Paragua a couple weeks ago, and found the space, service, and food to be as good as ever. The spot has been in reopening mode over the past few months, slowly expanding the number of evenings a week they’re open, so check their hours before you go.
Per a reader, the food is pretty good at Taste of Maggie’s Cocina, located in the stationary food truck formerly inhabited by Brunch Box Blue at La Tienda in Eldorado. The menu is a kind of “East meets West” situation, with offerings like green chile stew, chicken tortilla soup, Polish meatballs, and pierogies on the rotating menu.
Crepas-oh! is opening a new location, also at La Tienda in Eldorado—they’ll be taking up the space vacated by Bite Me Bakery. First, there will be a little revamping and construction, then permitting, and then, perhaps as soon as March, the popular creperie will open its third set of doors. (If you don’t already know, their first two spots are in Santa Fe proper, with the newer one being at the Railyard.)
In other expansion news, the crew behind 3128 Social House and Gather in Nob Hill is opening a third venue in Bernalillo. In keeping with the theme of naming by address, the new spot, located in the former Freight House Kitchen + Tap location on Camino del Pueblo, will be called 200 Social House. They’re also advertising wall space available to artists for all three venues.
It’s official: Johnny Ortiz-Concha and Maida Branch, the folks behind / shed, announced they’ll be designing and opening the restaurant at Hotel Willa, a new boutique hotel opening in Taos
“early 2025,” they say. The restaurant is called Juliette, after Ortiz-Concha’s mother.
This year’s Chocolate Fantasy takes place March 8 at Sandia Resort & Casino. One year’s chocolate sculptures leaned Jurassic Era; what this year’s will bring, we can’t say, but we know that quite a few chocolatiers will be involved and that bonbons and dinner will be served at this New Mexico Museum of Natural History Foundation gala.
The Southwest Chocolate and Coffee Fest goes down April 5 and 6 at Expo New Mexico. Aside from providing you an opportunity to study the effects of going all in on caffeine and theobromine, coffee and cacao luminaries will offer workshops and demos, and you can even attend a course to obtain level 1 certification as a chocolate taster. Fable Restaurant & Market has moved into Arable’s old space in Eldorado. The owners are still waiting on their liquor license, but they’ve opened the market side, where you can order blue cheese waffle fries with your sandwiches, drink some Oddbox Coffee, and consider their kitchenware and cookbook offerings. Word is that a soft opening of the restaurant is coming soon.
After what started as a temporary closure in December, El Roi Café has vacated their space next door to Vamos con Gloria near Lomas and Sixth in Albuquerque. They’d had a rough go of it, first with their cofounder and original chef’s sudden passing, then with a break-in last fall. They did a fine mutton stew and we’re sad to see them go.
Cristian Pontiggia, photo by Douglas Merriam.
Chocolate Fantasy sculpture.
At Least Three Reasons to Love New Orleans
Words and Photos by Briana Olson
“It’s changed,” former denizens of New Orleans often tell me when we get to talking about the city on the edge of the Mississippi Delta. What they mean depends on who they are, but of course it has. Culinarily speaking, K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen shut its doors early in the pandemic and never opened them again. Willie Mae’s Scotch House was destroyed by Hurricane Katrina, rebuilt, then in 2023, damaged by a fire from which it has yet to fully recover. But Dooky Chase’s Restaurant is still hopping. Mandina’s Restaurant still serves catfish meunière and spaghetti in the building an Italian immigrant opened as a grocery store a century ago. Some places close earlier than they used to, but you can still order a muffuletta from Verti Marte at most any hour. On a recent trip, I found spots new and old where the vibe—and the food—carry on the traditions of simultaneously honoring, transgressing, and inventing that make New Orleans a city I love. Here are three (two of which happen to be James Beard semifinalists this year).
COMPÈRE LAPIN
If I lived in the Marigny, I’d haunt the bar at BABs (formerly Bywater American Bistro), snacking on arancini with egg yolk jam and caviar and sipping an unusual house cocktail with a clear view into the open kitchen. Housed in a former rice mill, BABs is the newer of Chef Nina Compton’s two restaurants in the city, and it’s a warm, easy place to be. But it was at Compère Lapin, the restaurant Compton and her husband / business partner opened in 2015 in the city’s once divey, now borderline glitzy warehouse district, that I was served one of my top dishes of 2024: curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. It felt like a wink from New Orleans to Saint Lucia, where the chef was born.
LIUZZA’S BY THE TRACK
Liuzza’s may be young by New Orleans standards—it opened in 1996—but it feels like it’s been around forever. That’s partly because the building dates to the 1930s, when it became home to a neighborhood grocery and bar, and partly because of a dedicated local clientele. Liuzza’s is known for their wet shrimp po-boys and gumbo, both creations of longtime chef and former co-owner Billy Gruber. On my visit, though, I went for a special: the debris po-boy. Debris is to roast beef what burnt ends are to brisket: the bits that fall off while slicing, then stew in the gravy and juices. It is a saucier, messier, more glorious version of the classic roast beef po-boy; I paired mine with a goblet of pilsner and a trip to nearby City Park.
ALMA CAFE
Alma Cafe opened in the Bywater in 2020, making it part of the new wave of Latininfluenced restaurants in New Orleans. It’s also Chef Melissa Araujo’s homage to a Honduran community whose presence dates to the early twentieth century, when millions of bananas departed the small nation’s north coast for the New Orleans port. The chef’s own heritage is bound with that history, and with Alma, she draws attention to what is unique to Honduran cuisine while riffing on its Spanish, Indigenous, and Caribbean roots. Araujo favors local sourcing, and along with the congenial atmosphere, I dug the simple touches: the good coffee, the moros y cristianos, and the fiery pink curtido served alongside the meaty pastelitos.
MARKET PLACE & LOCAL FINDS
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8am–3pm, Tuesday–Sunday
624 Old Las Vegas Hwy, Santa Fe 505 466-3886 · cafe nasantafe.com
Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Award-winning wine list. Creative Casual Cuisine 221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com We
in-house.
In 2022, Chef Weston Ludeke relocated to Santa Fe from Charlottesville, Virginia, where he helped open Keswick Hall resort. Before that, Ludeke lived and worked in Philadelphia, San Francisco, and Los Angeles. He found his voice in cooking through training under amazing chefs and restaurateurs including Gordon Ramsay, Michael Mina, Stephen Starr, Joachim Splichal, and Brendan Collins. At The Compound, his goal is to bring the bounty of the farmers market to the table, following the same French technique and philosophy for which Chef Kiffin is known.
Sunchoke Agnolotti with Arugula Pesto
By Weston Ludeke, executive chef at The Compound Restaurant
This is a spring-focused pasta ideal for the transition between cold and hot seasons. It can be dressed as is for an earthy, lighter pasta option, or it can be paired with a duck leg confit or late winter braise to make it more hearty. If sunchokes are a challenge to find, you can replace them with carrots or turnips, and you’ll find yourself enjoying the dish just the same. The pasta dough is versatile enough that any leftovers can be rolled into linguine or reserved to play with different shapes that interest you.
Make this dish on a day when you feel like hanging out in the kitchen for most of the afternoon. For the pasta, I recommend using a scale to measure ingredients by weight; if measuring by volume, you may find that you need to make light adjustments. If this is your first time making agnolotti, consider finding a video on YouTube that walks you through the steps of preparing the dough and forming the pasta.
PASTA DOUGH
290 grams (2 cups) Caputo flour or “00” chef’s flour
280 grams (1 1/2 cups) semolina flour
30 grams (2 tablespoons) water
30 grams (2 tablespoons) extra-virgin olive oil
5 whole eggs
40 grams egg yolks (2 egg yolks)
Bring all ingredients together in a food processor, then turn onto a floured surface and knead for 10 minutes until a smooth dough is formed. Wrap in plastic wrap or put in a ziplock bag; let rest for at least 2 hours before rolling dough.
SUNCHOKE FILLING
1 pound unpeeled sunchokes (or turnips), washed and sliced thin
2 shallots, sliced
2 cloves garlic, sliced
2 ounces butter
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup vegetable stock
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
1/4 cup mascarpone cheese
Salt, to taste
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, sweat shallots and garlic in butter. Add sunchokes and cook until soft and tender, about 10 minutes. Whisk in heavy cream and vegetable stock, and simmer for 10–15 minutes, until reduced by half. Use an immersion blender to puree mixture, or transfer to a blender and blend until smooth. Season to taste. Divide the puree: Cover half of the puree and chill until ready for plating. For the pasta filling, in a small bowl, mix half of the puree with the parmesan and mascarpone.
ARUGULA PESTO
1/3 cup walnuts
2 cloves garlic
1 pinch chile flakes
Zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups arugula
1/4 cup vegetable oil
Salt, to taste
In food processor, combine walnuts, garlic, chile flakes, lemon zest, and olive oil; blend to form a coarse paste. Add arugula and vegetable oil; process until smooth. Salt to taste, transfer to a bowl, and cover until ready to use.
Making the Agnolotti
First, prepare the dough. To roll out by hand, place the dough on a large, lightly floured surface, and use a rolling pin to create a very thin sheet, around 1/16 inch thick. A pasta machine makes a consistent, thin sheet.
Next, cut the dough. Using a pasta cutter or sharp knife, cut dough into long rectangles, about 3–4 inches wide, depending on how big you want your agnolotti. Spoon small amounts of the sunchoke filling onto each sheet, spacing the spoonfuls of filling about 1–1 1/2 inches apart. Be careful not to overfill.
To form the agnolotti, fold the dough over the filling and gently press the long edge to seal, making sure there’s no air inside. If desired, use a fork to crimp the sealed edge. Then pinch alongside the filling, pressing to seal each section. Cut through each section with a pasta wheel or knife, trimming any excess dough to make a neat edge, and use your fingers or a fork to crimp the edges.
Assembly
Bring reserved puree to room temperature. In a stockpot, bring salted water to a boil.
While waiting for water to boil, arrange reserved puree on the side of the plate and give it a swoosh motion to create a well.
When the water reaches a boil, add the agnolotti and boil for 2–3 minutes, or until they float to the surface and are tender. Use a slotted spoon to remove agnolotti from stockpot, and immediately toss with enough pesto to coat. Plate the agnolotti on the prepared plates along the puree, and top with some more pesto, as you like. I like to garnish with toasted walnuts, some whole fresh arugula or watercress, a spritz of lemon juice, some shaved parmesan cheese, and olive oil.
This sweet and savory bread is a spin on Louisiana pecan bacon bread, which likely evolved from traditional Southern pecan-based baked goods and the region’s love for incorporating cured pork in all sorts of dishes. Substituting green chile for bell peppers is a classic New Mexican move and adds the spice this recipe begs for. Spread some butter on it and enjoy it while it’s still warm.
6 bacon strips, chopped
6 ounces cream cheese, softened
1/3 cup sugar
1 large egg
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup milk
1 cup pecans, chopped
1/4 cup onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup green chile, chopped
Preheat oven to 350°F and grease a 9x5-inch loaf pan.
In a large skillet, cook bacon over medium-low heat until crisp, stirring occasionally. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels or an opened-up paper bag. Reserve 2 tablespoons of drippings. In remaining drippings, cook onion until translucent, about 3–4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon; drain on paper towels.
Using a hand or stand mixer, beat cream cheese, sugar, and reserved drippings until smooth. Beat in egg. In a large bowl, whisk flour, baking powder, and salt. Add flour mixture to cream cheese mixture in four parts, alternating with milk in three parts; beat well after each addition. Fold in pecans, onion, chile, and bacon. Transfer to prepared loaf pan.
Bake until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 50–60 minutes. Cool in pan for 10 minutes before removing to a wire rack. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature.
*Sourcing note: La Montañita Co-op carries bulk pecans from Del Valle Pecans at all their locations.
INDIGI-TAL FOODWAYS
By Ungelbah Dávila
Textures of Squash (butternut squash three ways), photo by Tia Quintanilla Pioche.
Iguess I am a true millennial. I graduated high school from the Santa Fe Indian School in 2005, the same year YouTube came on the scene, a year after the launch of Facebook, two years after Wordpress, and five years before Instagram was born. I remember what a big deal it was for my class to get access to digital video cameras, editing software, and online blogs. It was the first time Native American kids could tell their own stories and share them with the world, uncensored and for free.
In the twenty years since, Indian Country has harnessed the power of the digital space to do incredible things, from founding independent news networks, to creating online art marketplaces that bypass exploitative middlemen, to organizing powerful social movements like the Water Protectors and #NoDAPL. While there are many tribal lands that still don’t have cell phone or internet access, almost every kid in America knows that through their phone or computer they can be part of a global conversation that reaches far beyond their reservation border or city limits.
All of this storytelling and transcontinental connection has also reshaped how folks experience food, and Indigenous food in particular. Where fry bread used to be something you could only get if you were connected to the right people, now you can follow a fry bread
maven like Morris Navajo Grill or Manko Native American Fusion on Facebook. Chefs and Indigenous foods activists like Karlos Baca of southern Ute territory and Johnny Ortiz-Concha of the Taos area can cultivate their online presence, expanding the conversation about Indigenous cuisine and advocating for food sovereignty through the use of ingredients grown in their communities.
It wasn’t until I was in my twenties and attending the Institute of American Indian Arts that I realized that red chile, beans, and tortillas weren’t what Native people ate all over the country. That sounds naive now, but at the time, my experience of foods was what I grew up with and not much more. In college, I met citizens of far-flung tribal nations and started learning about those in Canada and the northern US states who ate bison and moose, who fished for salmon, who foraged for berries and maple syrup. I learned about how my own Diné people had grown orchards of peach trees and bred Churro sheep in our homelands, even leaving them with people who remained in hiding during the Long Walk. I learned how much history can be experienced around a table because food is the language with which we fortify our families, friends, and neighbors.
Today the idea of a neighbor has transcended the physical plane and we are able to talk to and share ideas and recipes with almost anyone
Left: Justin Pioche picking Navajo tea on his late maternal grandmother's land in Fruitland, New Mexico. Right, top: Blue corn cake with garlic aioli, popped corn, and scallion curl. Right, bottom: Sunchokes and dandelions. Photos by Tia Quintanilla Pioche.
in the world. Kids don’t have to go to college to be introduced to other cultures, find mentors, or attract an audience. They have the world virtually at their fingertips, and that not only exposes young people to what others are doing but can empower and inspire them to put their ideas out into the world. The internet and all the apps and platforms that have followed it give creative Natives the chance to self-promote, amplify their voices, connect across cities and states, and become a part of a global community of like-minded folks.
An up-and-coming Native American chef in New Mexico can pop online and see what Oglala Lakota chef Sean Sherman is doing at Owamni in Minneapolis, winner of the 2022 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant. Aspiring chefs can learn how Sherman practices foraging and fusing ancestral staples like elk, maple syrup, and wild rice with ingredients and dishes from other parts of the Americas, from chipotle to chimichurri. They can follow his work to educate people around the world about what the land has to offer and the importance of preserving its ability to provide, as well as to help redefine the boundaries of Native American food to include cuisine from Mexico and South and Central America.
For many Indigenous chefs, food sovereignty, ancestral foodways, and traditional farming practices are as much a part of their mission as the food itself. Having access to digital platforms gives them the chance to network, learn, and sometimes work both with one another and with non-Native chefs whose approach to the plate aligns with theirs. A commitment to hyperlocal sourcing and teaching land stewardship through foraging connects and motivates chefs from Ana Roš in Slovenia to Chris Erasmus in South Africa to Ortiz-Concha in New Mexico. This
past year, Chef Justin Pioche, a 2023 James Beard Award semifinalist and owner of the Navajo Nation-based Pioche Food Group, staged at Noma Kyoto, Rene Redzepi’s Japanese pop-up.
Pioche’s pandemic-era launch is a prime example of how the digital can uplift the local. In 2020, Pioche Food Group became an official business, working with Farmington’s Juniper Coffee + Eatery, which had lost a lot of business when the San Juan College campus closed during the COVID shutdown. They crafted four-course meals that could feed families of four for just $65, using social media to get the word out. With the help of a website and a growing following on Instagram (@PiocheFoodGroup) and Facebook, Pioche and his sister Tia and mother Janice Brown run a successful catering company out of their homebase in Fruitland, New Mexico, a spot on the map that has never been noted for its culinary pursuits—until now. The group has garnered acclaim for their LorAmy Supper Club, a pop-up dinner series where Chef Pioche creates nine-course meals inspired by traditional Diné dishes. Pioche has guest-cheffed at the Michelin-starred Alinea in Chicago and is scheduled to collaborate with chef Sherman at the Turtle Island Dinner Series at Owamni in late February.
“We usually try to highlight Navajo foods on the menu in that modern, upscale setting. So, for example, we’ll play a lot with liquid nitrogen spherification, serving cold things, hot things, cold solids, liquid, and vice versa,” says Pioche. He will also design a menu around ingredients found in the area where they're working. For instance, when their client in a southeastern state harvested an alligator, he asked Chef Pioche to use the meat in a catered dinner, and the chef combined it with mushroom in a puff pastry.
Left: Tia Pioche at a Singletons fundraiser in Scottsdale, Arizona, photo courtesy of Pioche Food Group. Middle: Sunchokes with red chile gastrique, photo by Tia Quintanilla Pioche. Right: Braised lamb fry bread tartine, photo by Stephanie Cameron.
Art, Culture, History and Beyond
August 22–24, 2025
Weekend Adventure at Ted Turner Reserves |
Ladder and Armendaris Ranches
Join the Circles Explorers and journey with us this August to the spectacular Ted Turner Reserves at Armendaris and Ladder Ranches in southern New Mexico.
Our adventure includes hot springs lodging, back country jeep rides, free roaming bison, bat caves and archaeological sites. Set amidst breathtaking landscapes, this opportunity is not to be missed.
To learn more contact Cara O’Brien, Director of The Circles. 505.216.0848 | cara@museumfoundation.org museumfoundation.org/explorers
Operating out of their mobile food trailer or from clients’ kitchens, Pioche Food Group relies on their web presence to book catering events.
But Pioche’s work doesn’t end at the table; it extends into the field, teaching students from local high schools about their Diné foodways, farming, water rights, and what it means to exercise tribal sovereignty.
“Justin always says his real goal is to spark interest in at least one of these kids, because that could change so much in how we use our Navajo land and being a farmer,” says his sister Tia. “Nowadays there are a lot of grandpas and grandmas out here that want their kids to take over their land and start farming, and a lot of them don’t want to, and they just move away to the city. But Justin is still here on the rez and trying to be a voice in our community and the farming community as well, because there’s so much land that’s being underutilized here on the reservations.”
Digital platforms have also been critical to the success of Chef Ray Naranjo of Santa Clara Pueblo. The owner of Manko Native American Fusion food truck, he primarily uses social media outlets to share his weekly menu and let patrons know where he will set up. With roughly five thousand followers (@chef_ray_naranjo on Instagram and @MankoLLC on Facebook), Naranjo relies solely on those platforms to advertise his
business. So far, his following has been powerful enough to keep Manko in business and to win gigs providing food service to the Heard Museum in Phoenix and the Poeh Cultural Center in Pojoaque, among other venues. Naranjo is also featured in Eating History, a new documentary film produced by the Museum of New Mexico Foundation.
“Social media was really critical for the exposure. It also helped with national-level exposure and connecting with [Native] groups from around the country, like Tocabe in Denver and Owamni in Minneapolis, that were able to see what we were doing,” says Naranjo. “It’s been critical for the elevation of my cuisine. Native American cuisine is almost a new concept, so seeing what everybody else is doing inspires you to elevate your food.”
Naranjo says that digital platforms have changed the game for Indigenous people by giving them a voice to share their stories, art, food, and culture. His menu presents contemporary Tewa favorites like fry bread green chile burgers and NDN tacos, as well as mash-ups like the Gangsta Meat Taco.
“Food is the heart of a community,” says Naranjo. “It’s kind of like giving the community back its soul.”
Left: Ray Naranjo, owner of Manko Native American Fusion, photo by Stephanie Cameron. Top right: Manko food truck. Bottom right: Shrimp dish at Manko pop-up. Photos courtesy of Manko.
BACK OF House
From dishwasher to sous-chef to line cook, the people working in restaurant kitchens are some of the hardest workers in the industry, and they don’t often get much shine. So, here are shots from behind the scenes at three New Mexico restaurants, featuring the fine people who—quite literally—put the food on your table.
Foraging red-capped boletes, photo by Johnny Ortiz-Concha.
Northern New Mexico is known for its sagebrush-covered mesas, shimmering aspens, and deep river gorges—not an obvious paradise for chefs who are passionate about locally sourced food. Yet land-based lifestyles are deeply rooted here, and a surprising number of farmers, growers, and gardeners coax grains, greens, chile, and an array of other fresh fruits and vegetables from the earth (and, sometimes, from the water in an aquaponics farm). Old and new generations of ranchers raise cattle and sheep for meat. These fresh-from-the-land foods steer seasonally inspired restaurant menus up and down the Rio Grande and well beyond its banks.
Some chefs bring the meaning of “locally sourced” even closer to home, and deeper to the ground, by foraging wild plants and fungi from the mountain forests, canyon floors, riverbanks, and meadows of northern New Mexico. A few chefs and restaurateurs even raise animals and grow food themselves. Not only are these chefs spotlighting local foods in their cuisine, but they’re inspired by northern New Mexico’s generational ingredients to create something new. Crafted around these ingredients, their menus tell a story about the land that produced them.
For insight into the art of sourcing local foods, I spoke with Patrick and Kelly Torres, co-owners of the Black Bird Saloon in Los Cerrillos, prized for its Old West ambience and playful menu. I also talked with Chef Johnny Ortiz-Concha, whose / shed, a membership-based dinner project in Taos, plunges diners into an intimate, shared experience of eating dishes made with canyon grapes, crow weed, juniper berries, and other foods foraged around his land and beyond. Our conversations revealed much more than how to find, grow, and prepare local foods. Indeed, these restaurant owners and chefs are as passionate about what they serve as they are about honoring the history and traditions of the land they inhabit.
“New Mexico has the largest diversity of food in the country,” says Ortiz-Concha. “We have many cactus that fruit in northern New Mexico that you don’t find anywhere else, and then you have rivers, lakes, canyons. The terroir does find its way into domestic things. Melons send their roots deeper, where they collect more flavor and energy. If you get a Navajo watermelon, you’ll never taste a better melon.”
From Fertile Soil
When Kelly and Patrick opened Black Bird Saloon in Los Cerrillos in 2017, sourcing local ingredients wasn’t always easy. “Our sourcing has come a long way in a few years now that more is available,” Patrick says. “We’ve been able to work with reliable sources. In the beginning that was challenging because farmers are not typically businesspeople. It’s not that they’re not trying, it’s just that as far as planning, knowing what they’re going to have available wasn’t jibing with what our demand was.”
Getting locally produced food to Los Cerrillos, a small historic village off the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway, also posed a problem. “A lot of places don’t come out where we are, as far as delivery is concerned,” Patrick says. The challenge was overcome when Kelly came across New Mexico Harvest, an Albuquerque-based local food
supplier that delivers fresh, local produce and other foods from eighty area farmers and producers to restaurants and other businesses in the Albuquerque, Rio Rancho, Placitas, Bernalillo, and Santa Fe areas. Still, sourcing from local producers is much more hands on than ordering from national wholesale distributors. Every Wednesday, Patrick makes the rounds in Santa Fe to pick up local items from places that don’t deliver, like Sage Bakehouse and the aquaponics-based Desert Verde Farm.
“I look at a list that New Mexico Harvest puts out each week,” Kelly says. “I rely on whatever they print out and then order whatever I can build a menu on. Most recently, they have mushrooms that are coming from Enchanted Farms—three different types, shiitake, oyster, and pioppino! We get all of our greens, including mizuna, every single week from Desert Verde Farms out of Santa Fe and mostly all of our herbs, when I can’t source them from our garden. Then I try to build a salad from whatever’s in season.”
Thanks to this availability of fresh, local vegetables, Kelly can dream up innovative ways to use more local ingredients in both standing menu items and seasonal and weekly specials. That local mizuna is slipped into the Trail Blazer, a North American elk burger served with Stilton and housemade blueberry mustard on a brioche bun from the Santa Fe–based Just The Best company. Crispy sage and sweet apricot compote are key components of the vegetarian Cult of the Ancestors,
Kelly and Patrick Torres, co-owners of the Black Bird Saloon, photo by Stephanie Cameron.
a sandwich of grilled king trumpet mushrooms and Spanish goat cheese made with grilled rye from Sage Bakehouse. “New Mexico’s come a long way with local products,” she says.
Although small in scale, their backyard garden has grown too. Patrick and Kelly live in the back portion of the historic building that houses their restaurant, so they can step outside and pick tarragon, mint, lavender, and other herbs from the garden they established on their three-quarter-acre piece of land. “Over the years, it’s become mostly a test garden,” says Patrick. “Since we didn’t grow up in Cerrillos, we didn’t know what does well here. We’re coming to a point where we know we have things that grow, like leafy greens. We’ve planted kale, Swiss chard, arugula. Herbs do really well.”
Kelly finds creative ways to incorporate those herbs in her menu. “I use French tarragon in my cherry sauce for the venison sandwich,” she says. “On occasion, I do chimichurri with oregano and parsley.”
Last year, the couple was thrilled to find 100 percent Angus beef from Trilogy Beef Community, a network of New Mexico beef producers based in Moriarty. “We had been sourcing 100 percent Angus from Montana,” Patrick says. “Part of why we hadn’t been doing local ground beef was because of pricing. We got in touch with Manny Encinias, the owner of Trilogy, and they were able to provide a quality ground beef that was consistent and affordable. Kelly and I had been talking about buying local beef since we opened, so we’re proud of this and happy. We’ve had comments from people who’ve noticed the flavor and freshness of it.”
Foraged Treasures
At / shed, Ortiz-Concha is the source of almost every ingredient served to dinner guests, not discounting nature. Whatever ingredients he can’t provide himself, he sources from trusted local farmers and growers. “I forage throughout New Mexico, mostly northern New Mexico, and mostly around the farm and ranch, but not limited to,” he says. The twenty-three-acre farm and ranch north of Ojo Caliente is home for Ortiz-Concha, his wife and creative partner, jeweler Maida Branch, and their young daughter. They live in a twohundred-year-old adobe house and are renovating a building on the property for / shed. Dinners currently take place at the historic Martinez Hacienda in Taos.
A forager must stay in tempo with the seasons. “In early warm season, we pick a lot of greens—the wild sorrel, wild watercress, dandelions,” Ortiz-Concha says. “In late warm season, we pick fruiting things, like wild sumac, chokecherries, ditch cherries, buffalo berries. Cactus fruit starts the cold season, which goes from leafy things to fruity things. Winter becomes more trees and shrubs: ponderosa bark, twigs, and needles; sagebrush. Chokecherries we pick at end of summer at their peak and then freeze them. We use every part, the juice and skins. You won’t come to a / shed dinner and not find chokecherry.”
His ingredients range from the intriguing—ditch cherries, buffalo berries—to ones so commonplace it’s a wonder they don’t show up on menus more often, like juniper berries, dandelions, and cactus fruit.
Left: Black Jack Ketchum with Trilogy Angus beef, gunpowder chile rub, havarti cheese, onion, and bandit sauce. Middle: Hunter-Gatherer with grilled whitetail venison, savory cherry sauce, and mizuna greens. Right: Seasonal salad with buckeye beans, Khalsa Family Farms turnips, and pickled pioppino mushrooms from Enchanted Farms Mushrooms. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.
At / shed, New Mexico’s ever-changing seasons are visible on each plate, from spring’s lamb leg with quelites, Acoma red chile, and blue corn and cedar ash tortillas, to summer’s trout with wild onion and river mint, to autumn’s wild elk (hunted by the chef) with red beans. Holiday biscochitos are made with oshá root harvested from the mountains behind their ranch.
Ortiz-Concha grew up partly with his mother’s Hispano family in Taos and partly with his father’s family on Taos Pueblo, where his grandfather raised cattle. He’s continuing the tradition, raising Criollo cattle and Churro sheep, both brought to New Mexico by the Spanish in the fifteenth century. “Our one dairy cow, Dolores, is the queen of the land,” Ortiz-Concha says. “We use her milk for butter. The meat cows we mostly use for ourselves and for / shed.”
In addition to foraging, Ortiz-Concha follows other traditions and practices of his Taos Pueblo ancestors, known as the Red Willow People. He cooks with an horno, harvests clay for his ceramicware from the same deposits his ancestors used for centuries, and pit-fires each piece. His connection to the land flows through everything he does, and everything has a purpose. “We might be pushing cows to a new field and we’ll find a rock that we’ll use on a plate,” he says,
describing how the / shed table settings and ceramicware incorporate remnants from the wild—bouquets of cota, willow basketry, volcanic rock—further connecting diners to nature.
To preserve some of the food he forages, Ortiz-Concha adheres to the age-old practices of his ancestors, who did not cure their foods with salt. “Preservation here was by drying out your foods,” he says. “That’s the method we use the most. So we forage as much as we can while food is at its peak, and preserve it by sun-drying it.” Red-capped boletes, for instance, are harvested in summer, then dried so they can be used year-round.
A / shed dinner offers the chance to experience more than the edible treasures foraged from the wild and uniquely prepared. “There are different layers to the experience,” Ortiz-Concha says. “One is the food, just the flavor and exploration of that. Navigating New Mexico history through food is another way, and the other is sharing with community. Some people gather all three and maybe some gather from one or the other. It is based around sharing food with high integration and intention with others that’s nurturing for the body, the soul, and the mind. It could be a completely different experience each time.”
Left: Ortiz-Concha with his family’s Criollo cattle, photo by Stefan Junir. Right: Courses from the Criollo served at / shed, including raw Criollo (rosa de campo, red-capped bolete, red corn), carne seca (southern New Mexico lake bed salt, crow weed), and Criollo liver (chokecherry, Turkey Red wheat), photo by Johnny Ortiz-Concha.
The Land Holds Stories
Los Cerrillos
Located on the corner of Main and First Streets, Black Bird Saloon’s building dates to the 1880s. Its former lives include another saloon, the Monte Carlo Bar during post-Prohibition years, and the local newspaper, the Cerrillos Rustler. “It has always been a meeting place, a place to get a drink and food,” says Patrick, who renovated the building with Kelly after they bought it in 2014. “We’ve taken a place that existed and revived what was already there. We put our touches on it and Kelly put out her menu. We took it over and revived what was sleeping and now it’s become a vibrant spot.”
The couple researched the history of the Los Cerrillos area and looked into what people ate during the 1880s through the turn of the twentieth century. “I’m always taking inspiration from the Old West and then trying to incorporate flavors that have come from the region, from the Spanish, the Mexicans, and the Native Indians. My inspiration also comes from travel,” Kelly says. They’ve yet to find a viable local source for the rattlesnake and rabbit sausage, venison, elk, and bison they serve, but since they opened in 2017, they’ve sourced their game meats from an established North American company that buys from farms devoted to sustainability and humane treatment.
Patrick and Kelly are keenly cognizant of the area’s rich history and excited about its revitalization.
“Being in Cerrillos now, knowing what was there before and that it was a self-sustaining mining community with markets, restaurants, butcher shops, and bakeries, I feel that us being there and doing what we’re doing, introducing locally sourced food, that slowly it’s coming back,” Patrick says. He points out that their neighbor, the Cerrillos Station mercantile shop, now has a farmers market from mid-May through mid-October. Kelly talks about a couple who recently moved to town and raise goats. “They make cajeta,” she says. “There’s a real interest in bringing back a sustainable community to Los Cerrillos.”
Taos Pueblo Land
When Ortiz-Concha was just nineteen, a whirlwind of success swept him into the kitchens of some of the country’s top restaurants, starting with Grant Achatz’s three-star Michelin restaurant, Alinea, in Chicago and followed by The Willows Inn in Washington state. After a stint at San Francisco’s Michelin-starred restaurant Saison, he returned home to Taos. “I had been working in restaurants and been disenamored by the illusion of restaurants, which is OK, they’re businesses,” he says. “But I wanted to do something that was integral and by hand.”
Stepping into the rhythms of his Taos ancestors, Ortiz-Concha created an experience that extends well beyond food on a plate. He’s described / shed’s dinners as “ceremony or prayer that celebrate nature and the ‘fleeting of time.’” The monthly dinners are open only to members, or parciantes, whose monthly fees support / shed’s regenerative practices and continuing the ancient tradition of caring for the land and the animals it nurtures. Limited tickets are available starting at 11 am on the fifteenth of each month for the following month.
While devoted to / shed, Ortiz-Concha, with Branch, is also designing the interior space and the menu for Juliette, the restaurant (named for his mother) that will be part of the boutique Hotel Willa, which is replacing the Indian Hills Inn and slated to open this spring. “We’ll be part of it, but well-known Taos chef Noah Pettus will be running the kitchen,” he says. “We’ll be making sure there’s quality food, working with Squash Blossom Local Food and getting local produce.”
Each / shed dinner experience celebrates Ortiz-Concha’s connection to the land. “As a chef and through / shed, the whole emphasis of our project is to share the place that we come from and that we continue to inhabit and where our ancestors have spent much time,” he says. “Everything we do is connected to terrain. We cook food where you can taste the story and it has the story of where we came from. For / shed, everything revolves around that.”
Left: Cactus dish at / shed. Right: Foraged pads of the high-desert cactus that grow among piñon and chamiso. Photos by Johnny Ortiz-Concha.
Sweet Week
Sweet Week, held from March 29 to April 6, encourages community support for Albuquerque’s culinary businesses through discounts, promotions, classes, and events. It is also intended to raise awareness for Mandy’s Farm and similar organizations supporting inclusive employment opportunities for individuals with disabilities.
We invite you to support participating businesses by enjoying and purchasing local treats like coffee, truffles, cakes, and wine or participating in a unique event such as a truffle making class, a coffee cupping, or even a chocolate tasting certification class.
Sweet Week is a collaboration between the Southwest Chocolate and Coffee Fest and edible New Mexico, made possible by the support of Visit Albuquerque.
Chocolate Factory Tour & Tasting
April 2, 1 PM. Ticketed Event
Join a behind-the-scenes, one-hour tour into Bean-to-Bar Chocolate Making, followed by three single-origin chocolate tastings. Visit sweetweekabq.com to purchase tickets.
Our seasonal Grab & Go breakfast and lunch menu caters to vegans, vegetarians, and meat lovers. We use locally sourced and 100% organic ingredients, creating meals from scratch, prepackaged daily. We also provide gluten-free and dairy-free options, as well as safe, natural sugars for diabetics. Come in during Sweet Week for a special treat.
5333 Fourth Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-545-9460, bedrock-kitchen.com
BRÚ ROASTERS
COLOMBIAN COFFEE TASTING TOUR
April 4, 1 pm. Ticketed. Join renowned coffee experts Juan Certain and Juan Camilo Zuluaga for a deep dive into Colombian coffee, exploring the full bean-tobrew process through taste and flavor. 15% discount March 31–April 4 on any menu item or bags of coffee.
March 30–April 6, while supplies last. Enjoy five 4-ounce beers, including our award-winning Chocolate Milk Stout, paired with five selections of chocolate.
$30 (plus tax and tip), includes a ticket to the Southwest Chocolate and Coffee Fest. The Firestone Taproom is open daily, 11 am–10 pm.
$10 Banana Splits on Friday, April 4, 4:30–8 pm. Offers valid with your free Sweet Week Pass.
6845 Fourth Street NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-313-6374, busybeefrozencustard.com
CHICKY'S COFFEE
ROAST WITH SCOTT: HANDS-ON ROASTING CLASS
March 30, 10 am. Limit 5 people. Ticketed.
The hands-on roasting class includes a discussion on ethical sourcing, raw beans, and the science of how to roast.
Participants will take home a pound of their roasted coffee. 15% off all in-store purchases during Sweet Week. Offer valid with your free Sweet Week Pass.
240 S Camino del Pueblo, Ste A, Bernalillo, 801-588-9415, chickyscoffee.com
CHOCGLITZ & CREAM
FREE SMALL CHOCOLATE LOGO
BAR WITH A PURCHASE OF $20 OR MORE
Made with Fair Trade Certified milk or dark chocolate. Offer valid with your free Sweet Week Pass.
INNOVATION AND EXCELLENCE IS UBIQUITOUS IN ALL OF SANDIA RESORT & CASINO’S DINING PROGRAM.
WORLD CLASS DINING
Sandia Resort & Casino offers the best accommodations, entertainment and dining in New Mexico including its premier pastry program led by Executive Pastry Chef Bruno Gras. A native of the French Alps, Chef Bruno studied in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc. Skill, guidance and direction were handed down to him from his family of accomplished chefs with the most influential being his father and uncle.
EXTRAORDINARY TEAM
Chef Bruno’s team of 12 highly skilled pastry chefs bring a wealth of experience to their craft. These artisans are known for their ability to transform simple ingredients into visually stunning and delectably flavorful creations. Sandia’s Chefs thoughtfully integrate regional flavors to elevate the dining experience and connect guests to the region’s rich traditions.
A DIVERSE AND DYNAMIC MENU
The pastry menu at Sandia Resort & Casino offers something for every palate. Guests can indulge in French pastries, rich chocolate cakes, fruit desserts and a rotating selection of seasonal offerings. Chef Bruno’s current favorites include Bien Shur Restaurant’s Chocolate Entrement Cake and Sandia Sportsbook’s Blueberry Cheesecake.
BEYOND THE RESTAURANTS
Sandia’s pastry program also plays a significant role in banquets, events and catering. From weddings to corporate events to intimate gatherings, the pastry team collaborates closely with clients to design custom desserts and confections which leave a show-stopping lasting impression.
A SWEET LEGACY
Chef Bruno Gras’ pastry program is a cornerstone of Sandia Resort & Casino’s gastronomic offerings. Through innovation, craftsmanship and a commitment to excellence, Chef Bruno’s pastry program sets a high standard of culinary artistry where guests can count on an unforgettable, epicurean dessert experience.
BLUEBERRY CHEESECAKE
ee Bundtlet!
your SWEET WEEK PASS for a free Nothing Bundt Cakes bag. The next time you visit the bakery, bring your bag and buy 3 bundtlets and get the 4th bundtlet FREE!
Choose from Milk, 73% Dark, 90% Dark, Red Chile & Dark, or the Diablo. Offer valid with your free Sweet Week Pass. 315 Juan Tabo NE, Ste A, Albuquerque, 505-797-1193, chocolatecartel.com
D.H. LESCOMBES WINERY & BISTRO
TIRAMISU & MOCHA NOIR
WINE PAIRING
Indulge in our special pairing: a decadent tiramisu served alongside a glass of Mocha Noir, our rich chocolate- and coffeeinfused red wine. Savor this perfect harmony of flavors for just $15.
Available only during Sweet Week, while supplies last. 901 Rio Grande NW (Old Town Location), 505-317-3998 and 3771 NM 528 (Cottonwood Location), Albuquerque, 505-548-8206, lescombeswinery.com
DESERT HIVES LLC
HONEY TASTING CLASS
April 5, 2 pm. Ticketed. Discover how and why honey bees produce honey. Participants will sample various local honeys, sourced from hives within 40 miles and categorized by location and season for unique flavor profiles. Attendees will also enjoy a 15% discount on all products from the Desert Hives shop.
Location TBA, 575-496-0518, deserthives.com
ELDORA CHOCOLATE
CHOCOLATE FACTORY TOUR & TASTING
April 3, 1 pm. Ticketed. Join a behind-the-scenes, one-hour tour into Bean-to-Bar Chocolate Making, followed by three single-origin chocolate tastings.
LEVEL 1 CHOCOLATE TASTING CERTIFICATION CLASS
April 3, 9 am. Ticketed.
The only in-person certification class offered in the United States by the International Institute of Chocolate and Cacao Tasting, led by renowned chef Dr. Maricel Presilla of the International Chocolate Awards and Gran Cacao. 8114 Edith NE, Albuquerque, 505-433-4076, eldorachocolate.com
ELIXIR BOUTIQUE
CHOCOLATES
TRUFFLE-MAKING CLASS
March 29, 5 pm. Ticketed. 15% off Any In-Store Purchase. Offer valid with your free Sweet Week Pass.
Saturday, April 5, 10 am–1 pm. Visit Explora for some fun for the whole family. We will offer $1 off admission when you show your free Sweet Week Pass. 1701 Mountain NW, Albuquerque, 505-600-6072, explora.us
valid with y r ee
The ultimate pairing of our hand-crafted Kona-Blend vanilla sweet cream and caramel cold coffee with a fresh fruit and protein filled acai bowl.
FLYBY PROVISIONS
SWEETS & TEAS PAIRING EVENT
Sunday, April 6, 10 am–1 pm. Free event. Experience the perfect pairing of tea and sweets at Flyby Provisions! Join Mañana Botanicals and Forget Me Not Bakery for a guided tasting featuring expertly paired teas and treats, plus tips on natural sweeteners. Enjoy complimentary samples and exclusive offers!
April 2, 8 am and 10 am. Ticketed. Join us for a 2-hour coffee tasting experience to explore the rich history of coffee as you savor flavors from coffee’s historical migration. Advanced registration required. 9601 Trumbull SE, Ste C, Albuquerque, 505-385-2663, greenjoecoffeeschool.com
HEIDI’S ICE CREAM
ONE FREE HOUSE-MADE WAFFLE
CONE AND ONE FREE TOPPING DURING SWEET WEEK. Offer valid with your free Sweet Week Pass. 3427 Vassar NE, Albuquerque, 505-898-1784, heidisjamfactory.com/ice-cream
MICHAEL THOMAS COFFEE ROASTERS
CUPPING AROUND THE WORLD
March 29, 4 pm. Ticketed. Join us on a sensory journey through the world of coffee in this immersive coffee-cupping experience! Whether you're a coffee enthusiast or a budding connoisseur, this guided tasting will introduce you to various single-origin coffees from all over the world. 202 Bryn Mawr, Albuquerque, 505-504-7078, michaelthomascoffee.com
MISSION WINERY
INDULGE IN DECADENCE: A WINE & CHOCOLATE PAIRING EXPERIENCE
March 29, 3 pm, Ticketed. Join us for an unforgettable evening where luxurious wines meet artisan chocolates by Theobroma Chocolatier in a pairing that will tantalize your taste buds. Bold reds, sweet whites, and celebratory bubbles will be paired with a divine selection of rich chocolates and smooth caramels designed to elevate your senses—because some things are simply meant to be together. 3423 Central NE, 505-263-0731, missionwinerynm.com
March 30, 2–4 pm. Free event. Get ready for a flavor-packed experience! We're offering a FREE tasting event where ice cream, coffee, and chocolate come together in perfect harmony. From rich, velvety ice cream to cold-brewed coffee and indulgent hot fudge, this is a sweet experience you won’t want to miss. What’s included: Free samples of ice cream, frozen pie, coffee, and chocolate—plus discounts! Games and prizes as well. 3107 Eubank NE, Albuquerque, 505-489-6137, W W Coffee and a Kings Acai B l
NOTHING BUNDT CAKES FREE BUNDTLET!
Present your Sweet Week pass for a free Nothing Bundt Cakes bag. The next time you visit the bakery, bring your bag and buy 3 bundtlets and get the 4th bundtlet FREE!
2241 Q Street NE, Ste 7-i, Albuquerque, 505-219-2556, oldbarreltea.com
PIÑON COFFEE HOUSE
CERAMIC COFFEE MUG PAINTING CLASS AT 4TH STREET
Wednesday, April 2, 6 pm. Ticketed. Join the team from Kelly Jo Designs at our 4th Street location for a fun and creative Ceramic Coffee Mug Painting Class, where you can design your own unique mug while enjoying free coffee from New Mexico Piñon Coffee! Whether you're a seasoned artist or just looking for a relaxing activity, this class provides all the materials and guidance you need to craft a personalized masterpiece. 10% off Pinon Fudge, packaged coffee, lattes, and cold brew at all locations with your Sweet Week Pass.
5222 Fourth Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-312-7876; 4545 Alameda, Albuquerque, 505-312-7994; 1761 Rio Rancho Blvd SE, Rio Rancho, 505-312-7876; 2781 Fifty-Seventh Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-492-2993, nmpinoncoffee.com
RUN FIT
CHOCOLATE AND COFFEE RUN
Sunday, March 30, 2025. Ticketed. Chocolate and coffee runners and walkers, your time has come! The Chocolate and Coffee Run: 5K and Kids K is brewing to be an event you won’t want to miss! This unique blend of chocolate and coffee with a run or walk is a great way to start your day! Free coffee and chocolate doughnuts for all. All runners receive a ticket to the Southwest Chocolate and Coffee Fest. Washington Middle School, 1101 Park SW Albuquerque, irunfit.org
SATELLITE COFFEE
CELEBRATE SWEET WEEK WITH SATELLITE COFFEE!
Buy any coffee item and enjoy 50% off our handcrafted Espresso Truffle Brownie. Treat yourself to the perfect pairing of freshly roasted coffee and indulgent chocolate goodness! Also available at all Flying Star Cafes! Offer valid with your free Sweet Week Pass. 3416 Central SE, Albuquerque, 505-255-6633, satellitecoffee.com
Offer valid with your free Sweet Week Pass. 2641 Coors NW, Ste B1, Albuquerque, 505-917-1613, www.threeblackcats.net
WINE STUDIO BY VIVA VINO!
SWEET WINES OF NEW MEXICO
March 30, 12 pm. Ticketed. Enjoy liquid bliss and say, “Wow! I never knew . . .” about New Mexico’s homegrown wines. The Wine Studio by Viva Vino! is a new experience center in Old Town that showcases only wines grown in the state. Seating only available for ages 21+. 301 Romero NW, Ste 209, Albuquerque, 505-705-7517, nmwinestudio.com
WOW WOW HAWAIIAN LEMONADE
15% DISCOUNT ON A WOW WOW POWER COMBO: WOW WOW COFFEE AND A KINGS ACAI BOWL
The ultimate pairing of our handcrafted Kona-Blend vanilla sweet cream and caramel cold coffee with a fresh-fruit-andprotein-filled acai bowl. Offer valid with your free Sweet Week Pass. 7805 Enchanted Hills, Ste 22, Rio Rancho, 505-417-4988, wowwowhawaiianlemonade.com/location/albuquerque
PEOPLE’S CHOICE AND JUDGES’ AWARDS WINNER
Dark Chocolate Pot de Crème Tart with Espresso Whipped Cream and Salted Caramel
By Marybeth & Meagan Higgins of Indulgence Bakery & Cafe
Mother and daughter duo Marybeth and Meagan Higgins own and operate Indulgence, a bakery and café in Las Cruces where everything is made from scratch with love, passion, and creativity. Their family counts decades in the restaurant business (and in Las Cruces); they serve breakfast, lunch, and a rotating variety of pastries, Stuftcakes (jumbo stuffed cupcakes), cakes, cheesecakes, cream puffs, and other sweet treats. The café rotates its bakery flavors seasonally.
This decadent dessert is a chocolate lover’s dream and adapts easily to different flavor combinations. A twist on the classic French pot de crème, this rich tart is perfect for entertaining and feels fancy enough for any special occasion. The key to success with this recipe is to use high-quality chocolate and to not overbake once the filling is added. Note that you’ll need a shallow tart pan to make this one.
Shortbread Crust
8 tablespoons butter (room temperature, but not too soft)
1/4 cup powdered sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
Olive oil spray
Pot de Crème Filling
9 ounces high-quality dark or semisweet chocolate, chopped or chips (such as Ghirardelli)
1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon salt
Espresso Whipped Cream
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1/3 cup sifted powdered sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso powder
Garnish
1/4 cup high-quality salted caramel (store-bought or homemade)
Flaky sea salt (such as fleur de sel; optional)
Shortbread Crust and Assembly
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Fit bowl of stand mixer with paddle attachment. Combine softened butter, powdered sugar, and salt in bowl and beat on medium until lightened and fluffy, about 1–2 minutes.
Scrape down edges of bowl with a spatula, then add flour. Starting on low speed, and slowly moving up to medium, beat mixture until it begins to come together and forms a ball, about 1 minute. Try not to overmix.
Using the bottom of your tart pan as a template, cut out a 9-inch circle of parchment paper. Place the bottom back into the tart pan and lightly spray with pan spray. Place parchment round in the bottom of the pan and lightly spray the paper. Press the ball of dough into your prepared pan: Use the palm of your hand to flatten the dough and press it into the bottom, then
use your thumbs to press dough evenly into the sides. (Tip: the edge of a metal measuring cup dipped in flour works well to finish pressing the crust into the pan and making sure it is smooth and even.)
Bake for 20–22 minutes, until light golden brown. Let cool to room temperature for approximately 20 minutes while you make the filling.
Pot de Crème Filling
Place chocolate in a medium-sized, heatproof bowl. In a saucepan over medium heat, heat heavy cream until just boiling. Carefully pour heated cream over chocolate and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk until mixture is very smooth. Let mixture cool for about 10 minutes, until lukewarm or cooler (otherwise, it will cook the eggs).
In a small bowl, whisk together eggs, vanilla, and salt. Whisk egg mixture into cooled chocolate mixture until well combined. Pour filling into the cooled tart shell.
Bake tart at 350°F for 20–22 minutes, until the edges are set but the middle is still very loose (if you have an instant-read thermometer, it should register between 162 and 165°F when done). Trust the process and don’t overbake; the tart will set up as it cools.
Let cool for 10 minutes, then place tart in refrigerator overnight or until fully cooled. When ready to serve, carefully remove from pan to garnish.
Espresso Whipped Cream
Fit stand mixer with whisk attachment (a hand mixer will also work). Combine all ingredients in bowl and whip, starting on low and working up to medium high as the cream thickens. The whipped cream is done when medium to stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes.
Assembly
Using a piping bag with your choice of piping tip, pipe the espresso whipped cream onto the tart in a design of your choice. We like a crescent shape partially covering the tart, but feel free to be creative. If you don’t have a piping bag, no problem. Simply dollop spoonfuls at 1-inch intervals around the edge or use a spatula to spread espresso whip over the entire tart. The recipe for the espresso whipped cream can easily be doubled if you would like extra or cut in half if you prefer less.
To finish, drizzle the tart with the salted caramel and sprinkle with sea salt.
Refrigerate for up to 2 hours before serving.
Go Grassfed! and grass-finished
An edible New Mexico event presented by Southwest Grassfed Livestock Alliance
Join us for an unforgettable day celebrating our region’s dedicated grassfed ranchers while fostering connections that inspire a deeper appreciation for the protein on your plate. At this event, you’ll have the chance to meet the ranchers behind the food and savor mouthwatering local grassfed/grass-finished creations from eight talented local chefs. Cast your vote to crown the People’s Choice winner and discover how to source grassfed meat directly from the ranchers themselves. Don’t miss this opportunity to enjoy amazing flavors and learn how to support sustainable, local ranching from the Southwest Grassfed Livestock Alliance.
Why Grassfed?
ANIMAL WELFARE
Cattle and grass coevolved over thousands of years. When cattle live on pastures and are able to graze and forage for their diet, they can maintain their health, have low stress and aggression levels and a low mortality rate.
ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS
Properly managed grazing systems promote functional water cycles, mineral cycles and carbon cycles across a wide variety of landscapes. Grazing animals like cattle are beneficial to soil health and healthy soil sequesters carbon. Healthy environmental cycles promote biodiversity of plants, microorganisms and wildlife.
BETTER TASTE AND FLAVOR
Grassfed cattle with genetics that match the biome where they are raised, result in meat that is well marbled, tender, and very flavorful. Flavor often reflects the forages the animal consumed during the finishing phase of production.
HUMAN HEALTH
Scientific studies have shown that grassfed beef is nutrient dense and tends to be lean. It also has lower Omega-6 to Omega-3 fatty acid ratio, a higher abundance of conjugated linoleic acids (CLAs) and a lower risk of E. Coli infection and antibiotic-resistant bacteria.
THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS
ATaste of Gra fed smack down2025
March 9, 2025
12:30 (VIP) 1:30–4:30 pm (GA) The Bridge at Santa Fe Brewing 35 Fire Pl, Santa Fe
MEET THE RANCHERS AND RESTAURANTS
Amber's Beef Boutique with Market Steer Steakhouse
Laughing Goat Gardens with Mañana Taco
Sweet Grass Cooperative with Mesa Provisions
New Mexico Hair Sheep Producers with Manko Native American Cuisine
Sile Pastures with Horno Restaurant
Sol Ranch with Level 5
Polk’s Folly Farm & Butcher Shop with Farm & Table
Sol Ranch with Ex Novo Brewery
Grassfed Ranches
& Finished Beef 100% Pasture raised & Dry-aged
buy online
Order bulk beef directly from the rancher. We deliver monthly. find it local
Find our beef in restaurants, small grocery stores, CSAs, & schools. See our website for a list.
wholesale
Stock your shelves with the beef your customers need.
Grassfed Ranches
√ Ethically raised by local, family owned ranches
√ Grass-fed and finished using regenerative ranching practices
√ Clean, healthy beef you can feel good about eating
FIND SWEET GRASS BEEF AT THESE LOCATIONS
√ La Montañita Co-op in Nob Hill in Albuquerque
√ La Montañita Co-op in Santa Fe
√ La Montañita Co-op off Rio Grande Blvd in Albuqerque
√ Los Alamos Co-op in Los Alamos
√ Cid's Food Market in Taos
√ La Montañita Co-op in Gallup
ORDER BUNDLES 25 LBS AND UP DIRECTLY ONLINE AT
LAST CALL
NOCHE NEGRA NEGRONI
Created in Florence, Italy, more than a hundred years ago, the Negroni has become a popular mainstay on cocktail menus. Traditionally, this cocktail is one part gin, one part sweet vermouth, and one part Campari. Over the years, it has taken on many creative twists and variations, from the now widespread mezcal Negroni to the version made with rye whiskey, known as a boulevardier. Swap in different amaros for the Campari or experiment with different sweet vermouths.
This is our spin on the Negroni using local spirits. The dark Vara rum imparts smoky molasses flavors, and the orange notes balance and brighten it, making this a lovely twist on the classic.
1 1/2 ounces VARA Noche Negra rum
1 1/2 ounces Aperol (or amaro of choice)
1 1/2 ounces VARA Vermut Dulce
2 dashes orange bitters
Orange peel, for garnish
Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir until chilled. Strain into a rocks glass, with or without the rocks. Express an orange peel over the top of the glass, wipe the rim with it, and drop it into the drink.
Photo by Stephanie Cameron.
Raised With Care®
All natural pork, beef and lamb raised sustainably and humanely by a community of more than 600 independent family farmers and ranchers to produce the highest quality meat.
