Edible Santa Barbara Late Spring/Early Summer

Gigante Beans Confit with harisa and cilantro-pepita pesto

Best Urban Tasting Room Santa Barbara, —The Independent

“Chef Carolyn turns Tasting Room into Popular Restaurant”, The Independent

SMALL PRODUCTION. SAVORY EATS. FUNK ZONE. 19 East Mason Street, Santa Barbara, California. 805.845.8435.

95 Points–2019 Vintage, —Vinous Media

Winemaker of the Year Nomination, —The Wine Enthusiast

26 Eat (and Cook) Like a Chef by Hana-Lee Sedgwick

30 Edible Santa Barbara Wedding Guide

38 A Better Way to Raise Animals

Motley Crew Ranch by Liz Dodder

44 Biochar’s Big Carbon-Rich Moment? by Lisa Held

48 La Super-Rica Taqueria by Janice Cook Knight

page 61

Recipes in This Issue

Appetizers

58 Fava Smash Crostini with Buffalo Mozzarella

Salads, Sides and Main Dishes

61 Asparagus with Poached Lemon

Tarragon Chicken

64 Greek Gyro

13 Nasturtium and Treviso Salad

16 Strawberry Salad

Desserts

14 Rhubarb Bread Pudding

61 Standup Strawberry Tart

Pascale Beale

ABOUT THE COVER

Beverages

® edible Late Spring / Early Summer 2023 4 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA LATE SPRING / EARLY SUMMER 2023

Photography by Drew Cuddy

FEATURES

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

The produce of late spring in Santa Barbara is abundant. We finally get the sweet strawberries that we were craving in early spring, and the first of the stone fruits start to hit the market. I think May might be my favorite month. I was married in May, and then we spent our honeymoon driving up the coast to Cambria and Big Sur. It’s a lovely time of year for mini road trips. “May gray” and “June gloom” can’t dampen our spirits when there are so many good things to eat this season.

In this issue, Jane Chapman brings us a beautiful salad with nasturtium flowers. Those peppery, bright flowers grow like weeds, especially when there’s been a rainy winter. They say that the definition of a weed is simply something growing where it’s not wanted. And nasturtiums can take over partially shaded flowerbeds before you know it. But it’s hard to be annoyed with something both pretty and edible. I would not mind cultivating a carpet of nasturtium along with sweet alyssum and yellow wood sorrel throughout my garden. They can pop up wherever they like. And they might just get harvested for my next salad.

Another plant that I’ve been enjoying in my garden is rhubarb. You’ll find my recipe for Rhubarb Bread Pudding in this issue. I know thrifty cooks created bread puddings as a way to use up stale bread, but I have such a fondness for both savory and sweet bread puddings that I go out of my way to have extra bread on hand so I can make them often. Since rhubarb is not a vegetable we can eat raw (and it’s usually treated as a fruit), it’s perfect for baking into a rich, creamy dessert.

For a sweet treat that is the opposite of rich and creamy, try the Strawberry Salad recipe in this issue. It’s the perfect “dessert” for those who say they don’t eat dessert. And those of us who love dessert will happily eat it as a first course, thus saving plenty of room for dessert at the end of the meal.

There are plenty more recipes in this issue, but it’s not all recipes. As always, we try to bring you a mixture of articles that are food-related and sustainabilityminded. I hope this magazine gives you food for thought and brings you nourishment this season.

Member of Edible Communities

Edible Communities

James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year (2011)

PUBLISHER & EDITOR

Krista Harris

RECIPE EDITOR

Nancy Oster

COPY EDITING & PROOFING

Doug Adrianson

DESIGNER

Steven Brown

MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Tara Howard

SOCIAL MEDIA

Liz Dodder

Jill Johnson

CONTRIBUTORS

Pascale Beale

Jane Chapman

Janice Cook Knight

Liz Dodder

Lisa Held

Hana-Lee Sedgwick

Carole Topalian

George Yatchisin

ADVISORY GROUP

Pascale Beale, Jordan benShea, Rosminah Brown, Janice Cook Knight, Katie Hershfelt, Jill Johnson, Nancy Oster

ADVERTISING ads@ediblesantabarbara.com

Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.

Krista Harris at Vega Vineyard.

Krista Harris, Editor and Publisher

ROB HATHERILL

Small Sips

Albariño

Albariño is a white wine grape variety primarily grown in the Rías Baixas region of Galicia in northwestern Spain. This grape is known for producing crisp and refreshing white wines with high acidity, bright citrus flavors, aromas of stone fruits and a slightly saline or mineral quality.

Rick Longoria started producing Albariño in 2004 from grapes grown at Clover Creek Vineyard. The Longoria 2020 Albariño was partly fermented in a clay amphora that Rick imported from Spain. Alice Anderson’s Amevive 2022 Albariño is sourced from biodynamically farmed Martian Ranch Vineyard in Alisos Canyon AVA. You can also find Albariño from LaBarge Winery and Tomi Cellars.

Clairette

With over 200 wineries and vineyards, Santa Barbara County is known for its unique and diverse wine culture. The top grapes grown are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. But there are so many lesser-known varietals worth seeking out. As the weather starts to warm up and you are looking for something new under the sun, we’ve found a few you might want to try.

Clairette, not to be confused with Claret, is a white wine varietal grown in the Rhone Valley. In fact, you might also see it referred to as Clairette Blanche to further emphasize that it is not red wine. Winemakers often blend Clairette with other grapes to add some extra zing and give the wine a nice aroma and flavor. But it can be a delicious wine on its own. It makes a light- to medium-bodied wine that is refreshing and has flavors of citrus fruits, green apple and sometimes a bit of a flowery taste.

It’s not the easiest wine to find in our area, but some winemakers are working with this grape. Babcock Winery makes a wonderful Clairette Blanche. And Larry Schaffer’s Tercero 2021 Clairette Blanche is worth seeking out.

Grüner Veltliner

It’s widely planted and popular in Austria, and also has fans here in Santa Barbara County. Like Chardonnay, it can be made in many different styles. You might find it light, peppery and citrusy or full-bodied and capable of long aging.

Anna and David deLaski of Solminer Wines are big proponents of Grüner Veltliner. Before they started Solminer, they noticed a few local plantings of the variety in 2011 and, being from Austria, they came up with the idea to make just one barrel. And that idea ultimately evolved into Solminer. They currently make several Grüner Veltliners from various local vineyards. Also, keep an eye out for Grüner Veltliners from Fiddlehead Cellars and Story of Soil.

Pinot Blanc

Pinot Blanc is a type of white wine grape that originates from a genetic mutation of the Pinot Noir grape. Pinot Noir grapes are known to be genetically unstable, which means that sometimes a vine can produce all black grapes except for one cane that bears white fruit, resulting in a Pinot Blanc grape. Pinot Blanc is sometimes compared to Chardonnay, and its flavor can depend on how it’s made. But it is often noted for its tart fruit flavors and fresh minerality.

Alma Rosa’s Pinot Blanc from La Encantada is a classic from Sta. Rita Hills. Brander Winery has an estate Pinot Blanc from the Los Olivos District. And J. Wilkes has a Santa Maria Valley Pinot Blanc. And this just scratches the surface of the Pinot Blancs in Santa Barbara County.

Roussanne

Roussanne, a white wine variety from the Rhône Valley region of France, is known for producing full-bodied and rich wines with floral aromas, notes of stone fruits such as apricot, peach, pear and sometimes hints of beeswax.

Zaca Mesa Winery has long been known for their Roussanne. In 2016 Margerum Wines grafted and planted their estate vineyard in the Los Olivos District to all Rhône varietals, including 1.5 acres of Roussanne. Their 2021 Roussanne was aged in two-year-old French oak barriques for 10 months. Stolpman Vineyard has two vintages of Roussanne right now—their L’Avion 2020, Ballard Canyon, and their Uni White 2021, which is blended with Chardonnay.

Vermentino

Vermentino is a refreshing and delightful wine that makes you think of warm days and vacations. It’s a white wine grape variety primarily from the coastal area of Italy—think Cinque Terre and the Italian Riviera. And it’s characterized by lively acidity, minerality and aromas of citrus, green apple and stone fruits.

Winemaker Steve Clifton’s Vega Vineyard Vermentino is from the 27 Vines vineyard. The Ojai Vineyard makes a Vermentino from Camp 4 vineyard in Santa Ynez. And Epiphany’s 2019 Vermentino is from Rodney’s vineyard located on the Fess Parker Ranch in Santa Ynez Valley. This wine seems to be gaining popularity, so you should be able to find other wine labels currently making it.

Santa Barbara winemakers are an experimental bunch, so we couldn’t possibly mention every winery making these varieties. But we have mentioned specific wineries that we knew of and plan to feature more online and on our social media accounts this spring. If you know of a Santa Barbara County winery making one of these varieties, tag us on Instagram or Twitter @EdibleSB.

SANTA BARBARA COUNTY

For some locals, a Saturday morning stroll through one of the area’s biggest farmers markets is a habitual start to every weekend. Arrive at the downtown Santa Barbara Farmers Market empty-handed at 8:30am and leave with armfuls of vegetables, fruit, herbs, eggs, meat, cheese, bread, flowers and plants from as many as 90 vendors. Head to the Tuesday Farmers Market on State Street and make an evening of it—meandering down the street for shopping, wine tasting, live music and dining. Our farmers markets are generally year round and rain or shine, but hours can vary from season to season, so check market websites or call for more information.

CARPINTERIA

Carpinteria Farmers Market

800 block of Linden Ave.

Thu 3–6:30pm

SBFarmersMarket.org

GOLETA

Camino Real Marketplace

At Storke & Hollister

Sun 10am–2pm

SBFarmersMarket.org

MONTECITO

Montecito Farmers Market

1100 & 1200 blocks of Coast Village Rd. Fri 8–11:15am

SBFarmersMarket.org

ORCUTT

Central City Farmers Market

Oak Knoll South Corner of Bradley Rd. and Clark Ave.

Tue 10am–1pm Farmers Market Orcutt on Facebook

SANTA BARBARA

Downtown

Santa Barbara

Farmers Market

Corner of Santa Barbara & Cota St. Sat 8:00am–1pm

SBFarmersMarket.org

Old Town Farmers Market

600 & 800 Blocks of State St.

Tue 3–7:00pm

SBFarmersMarket.org

Saturday Fishermen’s Market

Santa Barbara Harbor

Sat 6–11am

CFSB.info/Sat

SANTA MARIA

Santa Maria

Farmers Market

Broadway & Main St. (located in Town Center West)

Wed noon–4pm

SantaMariaValley.com

Downtown Fridays

Corner of Main St. & Broadway

Fri 5–8pm (Seasonal)

SantaMariaValley.com

SOLVANG

Solvang Village

Copenhagen Dr. & First St.

Wed 2:30–6:30pm

SBFarmersMarket.org

VANDENBERG

VILLAGE

Route One Farmers Market

3745 Constellation Rd. Sun 10am–2pm

in Season this Spring

SPRING PRODUCE

Artichokes

Apricots and apriums

Asparagus

Avocados

Basil

Blackberries

Blueberries

Broccoli rabe (rapini)

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Cardoons

Celery

ARTICHOKES

YEAR-ROUND PRODUCE

Almonds, almond butter (harvested Aug/Sept)

Apples

Arugula

Beans, dried

Beets

Bok choy

Broccoli

Carrots

Cauliflower

Chard

SPRING SEAFOOD

Mussels

Ridgeback shrimp

Rock fish

Sardines

Spot prawns

White seabass

YEAR-ROUND SEAFOOD

Abalone (farmed)

Black cod

CHERRIES

Chanterelle mushrooms

Cherimoya

Cherries

Cilantro

Collards

Cucumber

Dill

Escarole

Fava beans

Fennel

Garlic scapes

Grapefruit

Green garlic

Kiwi

Kumquats

Limes

Loquats

Mulberries

Mustard greens

Nettles

Onions, green bunching

Papayas

Pea greens

Peas, shelling and snap

Radishes

Raspberries

Rhubarb

Strawberries

Summer squash and blossoms

Tangerines/Mandarins

Tomatoes, hothouse

Turnips

Dandelion Dates (harvested Sept/Oct)

Edible flowers

Garlic (harvested May/June)

Herbs (Bay leaf, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme)

Kale

Leeks

Lemons

Lettuce

Mushrooms

Onions, bulb (harvested May/June)

Oranges

Pistachios, pistachio oil (harvested Sept/Oct)

Potatoes

Radishes

Raisins (harvested Sept/Oct)

Shallots

Spinach

Sprouts

Squash, winter (harvested July/Oct)

Walnuts, walnut oil (harvested Sept/Oct)

Yams (harvested Aug/Sept)

Clams

Oysters

Rock crab

Sanddabs

Seaweed

Urchin

OTHER YEAR-ROUND

Eggs

Coffee (limited availability)

Dairy (Regional raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)

Fresh flowers

Honey

Olives, olive oil

Meat (Beef, chicken, duck, goat, rabbit, pork)

Potted plants/herbs

Preserves

Wheat

(Wheat berries, wheat flour, bread, pasta and baked goods produced from wheat grown locally)

BOK CHOY

SPINACH

POTATOES

URCHIN

OYSTERS

PASTA

ALMONDS

HONEY

DILL

RHUBARB

LOQUATS

MUSSELS

seasonal Recipe

Nasturtium and Treviso Salad with Whole-Grain Mustard Vinaigrette

by Jane Chapman

Having grown up in Mission Canyon right here in Santa Barbara, I’m always nostalgic this time of year when the first wild nasturtium flowers begin to appear. Nasturtium leaves and their flowers may be eaten raw, and both have a delicious peppery and sweet flavor.

As a child, I was accustomed to snacking on them as I meandered through the foothills, building forts, rock hopping and splashing in the swimming holes of Rattlesnake Canyon. As an homage to one of my favorite childhood snacks, I created this spring salad.

The addition of the jewel-toned Treviso lettuces complements the bright emerald-green leaves and orange blossoms of the nasturtium. Also, it gives more weight and adaptability to the delicacy of the nasturtium. The mustard vinaigrette adds depth and brightness to balance the peppery and sweet flavors of this wildflower and its leaves. Be sure to drizzle the vinaigrette and toss gently so as not to bruise these gorgeous greens and their flowers. I love this salad because of its taste and versatility, as it will elevate your main dish and may stand alone with the addition of chopped nuts, spring fruit and/or cheese of your choice.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS FOR THE WHOLE-GRAIN MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE

3⁄4 cup fine extra virgin olive oil

1 ⁄4 cup apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon whole-grain mustard

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper to taste (or about 1⁄8 teaspoon)

FOR THE SALAD

3 cups nasturtium leaves, left whole

1–2 cups nasturtium flowers, stems removed at their base

1–2 heads Treviso lettuce, cores removed

Prepare the vinaigrette by placing all ingredients in a jar with a secure lid and shaking well. Keep at room temperature and give another good shake before serving or refrigerate until ready to eat. This dressing will keep for over a week in your refrigerator.

Gently assemble the salad by thoughtfully layering the nasturtium leaves, their flowers and the Treviso. Once ready to serve, lightly drizzle the dressing over the salad and toss gently. Do not overdress this salad. Less is more in this case, and you may reserve most of the vinaigrette in this recipe to serve on the side or keep it for later use.

Jane Chapman is a Santa Barbara native, has a lifetime of experience in the kitchen and recipe development and has worked in the restaurant business for over 20 years. She prides herself on simple, delicious and approachable recipes to encourage the burgeoning home chef. Her newest venture, The Communal Table Santa Barbara, curates intimate events for women combining food and conversation. Her goal is to create authentic community and connection one meal at a time. To learn more or attend one of her events, visit www.CommunalTableSB.com.

seasonal Recipe

week-long challenge of cooking World War II-era meals. Irma Rombauer had no fewer than nine bread pudding recipes in that edition, so clearly she knew her bread puddings. My version is a slightly modern update with candied ginger, which I think pairs perfectly with the tartness of the rhubarb.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

3–4 stalks of rhubarb (approximately 2 cups diced)

1 ⁄4 cup finely diced candied ginger

1 ⁄2 cup granulated sugar

1 ⁄2 teaspoon salt

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

2 to 3 cups cubed day-old bread

1 egg

1 cup whole milk

1–2 tablespoons butter

Preheat oven to 375°F. Discard any leaves on the stalks of rhubarb and, if needed, peel or pull any strings off the stalks. Chop into small cubes and place in a buttered baking dish (large enough to hold the bread mixture with room to stir in the milk and egg mixture). Add the candied ginger, sugar, salt, lemon zest and juice and stir thoroughly. Then add the bread cubes and toss to combine. Lightly beat the egg with the milk and pour the mixture over the fruit and bread cube mixture. Cut the butter into small pieces and add to the top.

Bake for 45–60 minutes, until just set and the edges have slightly browned. Let cool slightly before serving.

—Krista Harris

A Special Thank You to Our Sponsors for Hosting the edible

Santa Barbara & WINE COUNTRY

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Dinklebrot Carpinteria

Christina Welch

Jane Chapman

seasonal Recipe

Strawberry Salad

Strawberries don’t have to be relegated to desserts and smoothies. Sometimes it’s nice to showcase them as a first course or salad. This couldn’t be simpler. The key is to use firm but ripe strawberries—the best you can find.

MAKES 2–4 SERVINGS

1 pint basket of strawberries

1 teaspoon of any fruit vinegar (a strawberry golden balsamic is particularly good)

1 teaspoon local honey

2 tablespoons walnut oil

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Hull and slice the strawberries and arrange on a plate. Whisk the vinegar, honey and walnut oil until emulsified; season with a dash of salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the strawberries and serve.

—Krista Harris

sponsored

Midland School Farm & Garden

A Source of Learning, Food and Community

Located on 2,860 acres in the beautiful Santa Ynez Valley, Midland School has been providing students with a comprehensive college prep education since 1932. What is equally impressive is Midland’s unique approach to learning about local food systems.

The school’s farm is a place where students engage with many of the core competencies that are crucial to their education—connection to place and environment, problem-solving and being of use. Students get direct feedback whether they are seeding trays for the greenhouse, pruning a tree or caring for animals. They get tangible lessons in genetic variation and soil chemistry. And gaining hands-on experience in sustainable agriculture gives them a deeper appreciation of the natural world.

Students get direct feedback whether they are seeding trays for the greenhouse, pruning a tree or caring for animals. They get tangible lessons in genetic variation and soil chemistry.

The joy and lightheartedness that radiated from the farm allowed me to decompress from my day and process through everything happening within my busy Midland schedule.” Being involved with the farm can lead to much more. Mattox said, “It has opened my eyes to a different view of the world. Right now, I’m looking into agriculture-based and outdoorbased college experiences.”

The school is honoring this vital work by making participation in the farm, either as a sport or internship, a graduation requirement starting with the class of 2025.

Working on the farm can also benefit the student’s inner world. One student, Mattox, class of ’24, remembers what it was like when she was first exposed to working on the farm. “We planted lettuce, which I’d never done before, dug some holes, and sorted beans that would end up going to the kitchen, and we would eat for the rest of the year.” She further explained, “Whatever we would do, whether cleaning tools, planting seeds, or learning about fruit trees, we were able to laugh and make the 90 minutes of the farm the most enjoyable part of the day.

As Mattox sums up, “The farm, the people I’ve interacted with on the farm, and the experiences I’ve had out there have all helped me learn what type of person I aspire to be and how to take in the world through eyes of curiosity and wonder.”

To learn more about Midland School, visit www. midland-school.org/

Student Mattox, class of ‘24, harvests carrots. Midland School students enjoy fresh produce at the farm pergola.

KARLA ESPINO KARLA ESPINO

Illustration adapted from The Perfect Sushi (Barefoot Books), written by Emily Satoko Seo and illustrated by Mique Moriuchi

LET’S EAT!

Homemade Sushi Recipe

The perfect sushi is unique — made with kokoro (heart) by you!

You will need:

Time: 45 minutes Makes: 12–15 pieces of sushi

Note: It’s important you get very fresh, high-quality fish if you plan to eat it raw. You can ask for “sushi-grade” or “sashimi-grade” fish at the store to make sure it is safe to eat.

Ask an adult for assistance and wash your hands before you begin.

Prepare the rice:

1. With the help of an adult, place the rice and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Once boiling, turn the heat to low and cover with a lid. After 15 minutes, turn off the heat and let it cool for 10 minutes, keeping the lid on to steam the rice.

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir the rice vinegar, sugar and salt together. Then heat the vinegar mixture in a microwave on high for 30 seconds or until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Alternatively, you can mix these ingredients together in a small saucepan on the stovetop with the help of an adult.

3. To help cool down the rice and make it shine, fan the rice as you add the vinegar mixture to it.

Prepare the toppings:

1. Ask an adult to help you slice your toppings into very thin pieces that are about 2½ inches long, 1 inch wide and ¼ inch thick.

• 1 cup short grain sushi rice, rinsed

• 1 cup water

• 1 Tbsp rice vinegar

• 1 Tbsp sugar

• ½ tsp salt

Topping ideas:

• cucumber

• avocado

• sashimi* (raw fish) *sa-shee-mee

Make your sushi:

1. In a small bowl, add a little vinegar to cold water. Wet your hands with this mixture before making each new piece of sushi.

2. Place a small ball of sushi rice in your palm. Gently squeeze your fingers around the rice to form an oblong shape slightly smaller than your topping slices.

3. Join the topping with the rice by carefully gripping them together. As you do this, think of someone you adore. Repeat to create more sushi with kokoro.

Seo and illustrated by Mique Moriuchi

Guide for Cooking with Kids

Learn more about Japanese culture and Miko’s story at barefootbooks.com/perfect-sushi Embracing imperfection is the key for successful collaboration with young chefs!

• Allow extra prep time

Leave enough time for children to complete tasks at their natural (slower) pace.

• Gather ingredients and tools before you start Keep items just out of younger children’s reach, giving them one at a time as needed. Ask older kids to help gather the materials before starting.

• Encourage maximum independence

Use a kitchen tower or stool to bring the child to the right height. Obtain child-sized cooking tools or select tools your child can use successfully with minimal supervision.

• Expect messes

Kids learn by trying, so allow them to make mistakes! You can minimize mess by spreading dish towels flat under your child’s work area.

• Lead with your heart

Your child will remember how it felt to cook with you more than how the dish turned out. Reassure older children that effort and thought are more important than a perfect final product.

For her grandmother’s birthday party, Miko wants to make her the perfect sushi,

Phrases to Use:

• “Wow you worked really hard on that.”

• (calm and friendly) “Here’s a towel to clean that up.”

• “Look how much of this meal you prepared!”

• “Would you like to help serve the meal?”

. . . until she creates one with kokoro (heart).

Illustration and text adapted from The Perfect Sushi (Barefoot Books), written by Emily Satoko Seo and illustrated by Mique Moriuchi. Guide for Cooking with Kids written by Stefanie Paige Wieder, M.S.Ed.

ACTIVITY Kind Deeds Coupons

Give someone you love a gift of kindness.

Adult Helper Needed!

You , ll Need:

• paper

• scissors

• markers

• stapler

1. Fold a piece of paper in half, then fold it in half again. Unfold it and cut along the folds to make four rectangles.

2. Repeat with two more sheets of paper so that you have 11 rectangles for coupons, plus one rectangle for a front cover.

3. Which family member would you like to give your coupons to? What kind deeds would they appreciate? Write or draw one idea on each coupon. For example:

• I will give you a hug

• We can read a story together

• You can choose a game to play

4. Decorate the cover and write your family member’s name on it.

5. Stack the coupons with the cover on top. With an adult helper, staple them together into a booklet.

6. Give your coupon book to your family member. They can choose when and where to use their Kind Deeds Coupons.

From Cherimoya to Nuts

WORDS BY George Yatchisin

Springtime farmers market tables loaded with handgrenade-looking cherimoyas have always fascinated me. These fruits don’t appear particularly enticing, with their seemingly armored and leathery skin. But then again, how did humans figure out we should eat the innards (the gonads, no less!) of the spiky sea urchin? When either adventurous or hungry, it’s best not to go by first appearances.

And if I’m going to delve into a new food, I’m probably going to try to turn it into a cocktail. So here’s the Rummy and Cher, a tropical blast that will trick you into thinking you walked into a tiki bar. For if you take home a cherimoya and cut it open (wait until it softens some—as you would do with an avocado), you’ll quickly discover why one of its nicknames is custard apple. The white, creamy flesh—with lots of biggish black seeds you need to pick around—delights with bursts of banana, pineapple, pear and strawberry flavors. People freeze cherimoyas and then scoop the flesh as if it was ice cream for a reason.

With so much fruit to kick off the cocktail, I figured I might as well keep with the tiki profile, hence the rum. To be honest, years of lame rum-flavored cakes from Italian bakeries in my Jersey youth made me dislike distilled sugar cane, but the straightforward Appleton Estate Signature Jamaica Rum does the spirit right. There’s just enough of all the notes one expects—vanilla, caramel, banana, strawberry (hey, some of those are cherimoya notes, too!)—without overt sweetness. Indeed, the cocktail needs that simple syrup to add some more mouthfeel and sugar things up. On a consumer note, this bottling of Appleton is relatively inexpensive, so fine to use in a mixed drink.

Of course, you might be wondering why, for a mere eight drops in two drinks, you need to wait two days to make this cocktail. That pistachio tincture might seem an excessively fancy addition, but after testing the drink with and without, it adds plenty, starting with a bracing saltiness that sets this fauxtiki drink’s sails. It also delivers the nuttiness, similar to what orgeat, generally made from almonds, provides to so many tropical drinks. Of course, we get a local bonus since we get to use nuts from the Santa Barbara Pistachio Company, a Santa Barbara Farmers Market fixture. (And then when you serve the drink, you can provide your own joke about local nuts.)

I’ve borrowed the tincture from a terrific new book, Cure: New Orleans Drinks and How to Mix ’Em. If you are interested in the state of cocktails—or New Orleans, as if the two can be separated—check it out. Neal Bodenheimer, proprietor of the titular bar that has won James Beard awards, has written a sloshy, enticing love letter to his town. It will inspire your mixology.

Mint really starts taking off in spring, and while you could wait until Derby Day for a mint julep, in the meantime you can let its sweet-spiciness grace other drinks, too. Local lemon trees also still seem laden with plenty of fruit, so while lime is a bit more typical for a tropical potion, it seems better to get acid zippiness with the benefit of what’s most in season. Add everything up and the cocktail even gets a bit of foaminess from that fruit—this is almost a smoothie.

Turns out there’s even one better reason to toast to the cherimoya with this cocktail: At least one source suggests it got to California via the same person, Judge R.B. Ord, who also imported our state’s first avocados. And where did Judge Ord live in 1871 and plant those wonderful discoveries? Yep, Santa Barbara. It might be about time we erect a statue to this horticultural hero.

George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara. He blogs at GeorgeEats.com.

RECIPE

The Rummy and Cher Cocktail

MAKES 2 COCKTAILS

4 tablespoons cherimoya flesh

2 sprigs mint

2 ounces fresh Meyer lemon juice

3 ounces rum (Appleton Estate Signature Blend recommended)

8 drops pistachio tincture (see below)

1 ounce simple syrup (see below)

Strip the mint leaves off the stems, reserving the tops, and add to a cocktail shaker with the lemon juice and cherimoya flesh. Muddle to pulverize/juice the cherimoya. Add the rum, tincture, simple syrup and ice. Shake well to chill and further break down the cherimoya. Double strain into 2 coupes. You will need that muddler again to get all the liquid through the fine-mesh strainer. Garnish each glass with a saved top of a mint sprig.

SALTED PISTACHIO TINCTURE

(From Cure: New Orleans Drinks and How to Mix ’Em )

1 ⁄2 cup salted shelled pistachios

1 ⁄2 cup vodka (at most)

In a small, nonreactive container, combine the pistachios and just enough vodka to cover the nuts. Cover the container and let it sit at room temperature for 48 hours. Strain the mixture and store the tincture in a nonreactive container for up to 6 months. Note: You might be surprised that your yield will be a half-cup of brown-red liquid.

SIMPLE SYRUP

1 cup white sugar

1 cup water

Mix the sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Bring to a light boil and then lower to simmer for 5 minutes. Let cool. Store in a jar in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

EAT (AND COOK) LIKE A Chef

Find inspiration in your own kitchen from the insights and appetites of four local chefs.

WORDS BY Hana-Lee Sedgwick

We are blessed with a plentiful array of fruits and vegetables all year long, but there’s something extra inspiring about the bounty of spring. Rich in color and freshness, spring produce has a tendency to reinvigorate our palates after a long, (relatively) cold winter, thus encouraging us to get into the kitchen and cook something delicious.

Indeed, spring is a wonderful time to find new inspiration in the kitchen and what better way to get energized to cook than by digging into the minds and appetites of professional chefs? Here, four local chefs share which ingredients inspire them most during spring (and any time of year), what they like to eat when they’re off the clock and how you can become a better cook in your own home kitchen.

ROB TRAN

Emma West.

Gigante Beans Confit with harissa and cilantro-pepita pesto.

Emma West

Chef/Partner, Satellite (Santa Barbara)

Emma West is the chef extraordinaire at Satellite, Santa Barbara’s uber-popular space-themed wine bar, where natural wines are offered alongside a menu of farmers-marketdriven cuisine. Here, Chef West makes food she describes as “emotional,” meaning there’s a nice balance “between ultrahealthy and grubby [options] to satisfy all feelings and desires.”

What are some of your favorite local ingredients to cook with in the spring season?

Oy, tough question... I’m going to go with peas and onions. They are just so fresh from the cold hard winter and set the pace for a really nice time.

If you had to pick one, which local ingredient has inspired you the most in the kitchen?

KALE! I love kale so damn much. It is so versatile, and it just feels right at all times. I like it super simple, either raw or sautéed with lemon, salt and pumpkin seeds.

Do you have a go-to farm/purveyor in the region you source from?

Yes, I really rely on a few farmers. BD [Dautch] of Earthtrine Farm is one farmer in particular that I would die without. He is such an inspiration because he has such a lovely and diverse variety of ingredients. He is so consistent, dependable and devoted. He cares not only about what happens in the fields but also about the people who work with him and the people that buy from him. BD has truly been a community supporter and a personal mentor and inspiration.

Is there a dish from another local restaurant you can’t get enough of? Or a restaurant you find yourself visiting often?

There was this salad from [the now-closed] Monarch restaurant in Montecito… It was Salanova lettuce, green goddess dressing, this super crunchy pumpkin seed muesli, and then covered in marigold flowers. So pretty, so fresh and so, so yummy! I am also a huge fan of Bettina. They have such yummy salads and bread!

When it’s your day off, what’s one of your favorite things to make at home?

I have really been into the two-salad taco… I make a warm salad, typically with crispy leeks, Japanese sweet potatoes and kale. Then I make a cold salad of artichoke hearts, spinach, chickpeas, parsley, cilantro and pumpkin seeds. I put both of the salads in a flour tortilla and just grub!

Do you have any tips or advice for the home chef looking to better their skills?

I would say to just do it! Go out on a limb and do something that may scare you. At the end, it ends up being super fun and yummy and a nice feeling of accomplishment.

What are some of your favorite local ingredients to cook with in the spring season?

Love them all, but fava beans, peas, artichokes and carrots are some of my favorites. This winter-into-spring, we have received an outstanding amount of mushrooms from local foragers. Can’t get enough of them.

BRI BURKETT

Above: Luca Crestanelli. Below: S.Y. Kitchen Mushroom Pasta.

If you had to pick one, which local ingredient has inspired you the most in the kitchen?

Artichokes, which is also S.Y. Kitchen’s logo. We use them raw or cooked, with salad, fish, pasta, meat, on their own; they’re very versatile. They complement every meal.

Do you have a go-to farm/purveyor in the region you source from?

Yes, Finley Farms is our go-to.

Is there a dish from another local restaurant you can’t get enough of? Or a restaurant you find yourself visiting often?

I do enjoy Japanese food, and Arigato is a Santa Barbara staple when it comes to sushi.

When it’s your day off, what’s one of your favorite things to make at home?

Recently I’ve enjoyed roasted chicken with braised carrots and fennel. Often, in the [restaurant] kitchen we don’t have time to cook for ourselves, and meals are often an afterthought, dictated more by hunger and time management than actual planning. When I am off of work, I do enjoy simple things that require a bit more love and longer preparations, but still not too much tending on my end.

Do you have any tips or advice for the home chef looking to better their skills?

Home food, to me, should be simple and nourishing. Think about how that dish is going to make you feel after you have eaten it. It should make you feel better. So don’t overload your food with salt, fats and especially sugars.

chef. Inspired by what the land gives her, Chef Stockwell’s farm-driven cooking ethos results in food she describes as a “true celebration of each season.”

What are some of your favorite local ingredients to cook with in the spring season?

In the spring, I get excited about the beautiful bounty coming from our certified organic farm. All of my edible flowers are starting to bloom. Peas will be here soon; dill is coming in strong; fennel is making an appearance now. With having our own farm, each season brings joy as I am able to choose the seeds that we grow year-round.

If you had to pick one, which local ingredient has inspired you the most in the kitchen?

I feel like beets have kind of been a huge player in my career. It was the first veggie tattoo I got, and I have been creating various versions of beet salads/apps and incorporating them into my dishes for the entirety of my career. I hated them as a kid. However, a fondness developed while I was in culinary school. Do you have a go-to farm/purveyor in the region you source from?

I am so lucky to have my own farm to source from, which we call the Café Farm. It’s just one mile from the restaurant!

Is there a dish from another local restaurant you can’t get enough of? Or a restaurant you find yourself visiting often?

My wife and I live in Santa Ynez, so when I do not want to cook, we are often ordering takeout from Dos Carlitos, or I will pick up sushi from Jina at Los Olivos Grocery.

SILAS FALLSTICH

SILAS FALLSTICH

Brooke Stockwell at the Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café.

Brooke Stockwell.

When it’s your day off, what’s one of your favorite things to make at home?

Some of the dishes I make on rotation at home are shepherd’s pie, meatloaf (with a Cajun spin), grilled meats with veggies— nostalgic foods, not fancy food.

Do you have any tips or advice for the home chef looking to better their skills?

Practice your knife cuts on a potato to build confidence. Taste your food often, layer flavors and do not over-season food in the beginning stages. You can keep adding seasoning layer by layer and make the final adjustments before serving. Most importantly, have fun cooking! Use what you have; adapt recipes. Cooking is an art form; there are not too many rights/ wrongs. Food is an expression of who you are, where you are from and where you are going.

Logan Jones

Chef/Owner, Tamar (Santa Barbara)

For his pop-up restaurant Tamar, Chef Logan Jones dishes out shawarma and Middle Eastern fare alongside wood-fired pita. Since launching Tamar a year ago, Chef Jones has built a loyal following for his flavorful, satisfying food, which features homemade sauces and produce fresh from the farmers market.

What are some of your favorite local ingredients to cook with in the spring season?

Snap peas from Tutti Frutti Farms. I like to blister them in a cast-iron skillet and toss them with harissa spice.

If you had to pick one, which local ingredient has inspired you the most in the kitchen?

Sungold cherry tomatoes. They are a firm confirmation that summer is in full swing. When they are ripe, they are sweet like candy and don’t need much to make them delicious.

Do you have a go-to farm/purveyor in the region you source from?

Tutti Frutti Farms

Is there a dish from another local restaurant you can’t get enough of? Or a restaurant you find yourself visiting often?

The ‘Nduja stuffed dates at Bettina. So good.

When it’s your day off, what’s one of your favorite things to make at home?

Potstickers from Trader Joe’s!

Do you have any tips or advice for the home chef looking to better their skills?

Cook more, mess up, repeat.

INGRID BOSTROM

Logan Jones.

INGRID BOSTROM

Chicken Shawarma Plate.

Hana-Lee Sedgwick is a Santa Barbara native who writes about wine, food and travel. As a freelance writer, editor and wine consultant, she happily spends her downtime eating, drinking and wandering, documenting it on her blog, Wander & Wine.

edible SANTA BARBARA

The Wedding of JENNIFER & TOMMY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY INGRID BOSTROM

Winemaker Wes Hagen was the officiant.

Jennifer and Tommy’s wedding was a celebration of simplicity, fun and love. The venue, Lions Park in Carpinteria, allowed them to embrace the natural beauty of the outdoors and the rustic interiors.

Winemaker Wes Hagen was the officiant, bringing his personality, humor and intelligence to the ceremony. Further reflecting the couple’s love of wine, guests signed bottles of wine in place of a traditional guestbook, and the couple plans to open the wine on milestone anniversaries. They also carefully selected local wines to serve during the wedding—Lucas and Lewellen, Summerland, Skyenna and J. Wilkes—that were meaningful to them. Pierre’s Catering provided delectable food—with the biggest hit being the burger and avocado sliders, chosen to represent Carpinteria’s iconic avocado. In addition, they opted for cupcakes from Luna Cakes by Cinthia instead of a traditional cake. And Jennifer’s best friend, Ilona, did their flowers as a wedding gift. Jennifer’s dress was from David’s Bridal, and Trish Fontes did her makeup. Clare Corsick styled her hair, and Ingrid Bostrom Photography captured every precious moment.

Overall, they said it was the perfect, stress-free wedding, and they couldn’t have done it without their family, friends and wonderful vendors.

The wedding was held at the Lions Park in Carpinteria.

Guests signed bottles of wine instead of a guest book.

Jennifer and Tommy on the dance floor.

Jasper & Oak is your choice for authentic and cinematic event coverage. Our professional and affordable team of photographers and videographers expertly capture the story of your event. Our vintage Photo Booth prints on demand high quality images and adds a wonderful and fun touch of class to any event. Here at Jasper & Oak, we believe in “I Do!”

Jasper & Oak event coverage

808 729-7207

• www.jasper-oak.com

Emphasizing seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, Acme Hospitality offers inspiring event menus—from Spanish tapas and paella at Loquita and scratch-made dishes at The Lark to early California rancheroinfluenced flavors at La Paloma Cafe. And with more than 15 immaculately appointed spaces to choose from—accommodating anywhere from 12 to 200 guests—Acme offers the perfect backdrops for celebrations of all kinds.

Acme Hospitality

Santa Barbara, CA 805 456-6804

Events@AcmeHospitality.com

www.AcmeHospitality.com/private-events/

DJ Darla Bea is an award-winning wedding DJ born and raised in Santa Barbara, California. She is the winner of the “Best of Event DJ in Santa Barbara” Award 2022 and has won the title for the past seven years in a row—the only female DJ in the city to have achieved that goal. She is also the recipient of the WeddingWire & The Knot Couples’ Choice Award 2023 for garnering five-star reviews from wedding clientele. DJ Darla Bea is known for her intuitive talents when it comes to music. She is able to read a room and play music to match the mood, hitting just the right note with her audience!

DJ Darla Bea

Since 2007 805 895-3400

Music Services

• www.DJDarlaBea.com

WEDDING WISDOM

Zohe Felici Reveals the Secrets to a

Truly Memorable Celebration

Zohe Felici, the owner of the Santa Barbara Wedding Style, has been in the wedding industry for 16 years. She showcases a curated list of wedding vendors on her blog and is a passionate advocate for Santa Barbara County as a wedding destination. We spoke to her recently for the inside scoop on wedding tips and upcoming trends.

The first thing Zohe pointed out is that Santa Barbara County is such an attractive place for couples to tie the knot because it has such variety.

She says, “From wine country to Spanish style, rustic mountains to toes in the sand ocean vibes, we have elegant, luxurious, funky and unique. There is something for every vibe. In fact, we have a quiz that helps couples start their wedding planning by identifying their wedding style.” Scan the QR code below or go to www.santabarbarawedding.com/quiz-santa-barbara-weddingstyle to take the quiz.

Selecting a venue is often a first step. Zohe says that beyond the logistics (capacity, cost, availability), couples should choose a location that reflects their personalities and helps tell their story. In Santa Barbara Wine Country, that location is often a winery.

At Roblar Winery, couples can choose from the Twin Oak Terrace overlooking the vineyard or the Wisteria Pergola with a stone fireplace and bubbling fountain or the expansive main lawn for dinner under the stars.

In picturesque downtown Los Olivos, couples can create an intimate experience at the Carhartt Cabin with its relaxing and rustic setting.

In Santa Barbara, the Acme Hospitality Group has 15 spaces that accommodate different sizes and styles—from the classic Spanish vibe at Loquita to the early California ranchero style of La Paloma to the sophisticated cuisine and stylish atmosphere of The Lark.

Once a venue is selected, Zohe encourages couples to think of each component of their wedding and add a personal touch whenever possible. For example, when it comes to flowers, she asks, “Does mom have a favorite flower that could be her corsage? Is there one sentimental vase you can include on the

head table?” Ella and Louie Flowers has a wide range of options, such as full-service florals for large or small events—or couples can order a la carte bouquets and arrangements that are delivered but not set up.

When it comes to music, Zohe suggests working with the band, musicians or DJ to personalize some components of the repertoire. DJ Darla Bea can take that idea even a step further with her ability to read a room and play music to match the guests’ mood during the event.

Often weddings are about more than just the big day itself. Showers, rehearsal dinners, welcome parties and farewell brunches—Zohe calls them ‘bookend’ events. Sometimes a tour or activity is the best type of get-together. Take your guests winetasting or book a tour. Many tour companies will create customized itineries, so you can take guests to your favorite spots.

Zohe says that the trend in weddings lately is toward more sustainability—what she calls “mindful planning.” She says, “Dramatic ceilings or wow factor immersion is also trending. There’s a focus on the lighting, chandeliers, hanging flowers and single focal points or showpieces (such as a colorful custom bar or an out-of-this-world dessert display) that combines both practicality and design with purpose.”

In terms of planning, it’s important for couples to remember that everything will contribute to the memories they’ll be creating. Documenting with photography and video captures the details and emotions of the wedding day. Jasper & Oak event coverage offers video packages providing couples with a natural, authentic and cinematic aesthetic. These memories will be relived and become a part of their family’s history for years to come

Zohe Felici, Santa Barbara Wedding Style.

A Better Way to Raise Animals Motley Crew Ranch

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY Liz Dodder

Four baby lambs bleat and rush behind Cassidy Alexandrou, stumbling over each other and anything in their way, following their leader. She holds four bottles of milk in her hands and calls to the lambs as she walks. It’s breakfast time at Motley Crew Ranch in the Santa Rita Hills, and they know it. Cassidy plays the Pied Piper, leading a path through the grass as the smallest lamb lags behind, not sure he wants to walk so far. But he does, and the bottles are tipped up and delivered to hungry mouths.

The biggest lamb takes a break from feeding and jumps up to lick Cassidy’s face. Then, it’s back to pushing the siblings aside to get the best bottle. The lambs are getting big; soon, they won’t need bottle-feeding. The smallest one gets extra care from Cassidy; she picks him up to feed him, ensuring his belly gets full enough.

When the milk is gone, the lambs run off—back to the rest of the sheep. These are the four orphans on the farm, so Cassidy takes the role of mothering them. It’s a role she cherishes.

Next, it’s time to feed the pigs. Cassidy puts feed in the troughs and throws a few gourds into the pen. The piglets are more hesitant, not having been bottle-fed by Cassidy. She breaks a gourd open to offer it to the babies. After watching the adults chew on the treat, they arrive on little legs and take some bites.

A few cows watch this calmly from their paddock, and chickens wander noisily and aimlessly in the grass and dirt around their large mobile coop. There are many eggs to gather. The more adventurous chickens have migrated near the drive-

way’s cars and trucks, so Cassidy rounds them up by pouring a bucket of grain farther away. They all rush to get some.

Cassidy runs this farm with her husband, Marko. They are committed to raising animals in the best possible way: organically, sustainably and humanely. Most of the animals are for meat consumption, while some are for milk and eggs, and Cassidy nurtures them all as a mother would.

“I love taking care of animals. I love nurturing them, making sure they have a good life,” she says. “I want the animals we eat to have the best possible time they can on the earth.”

This care for animals permeates the farm and everything Cassidy and Marko do. They raise chickens for eggs. They raise other poultry and meat animals. They harvest their poultry, partner with local fishermen and -women and bring in other local artisan products—mostly in their community-supported agriculture (CSA) harvest subscription boxes. Folks can sign up for any of their various meat, chicken and egg boxes to get all this hyper-local food right from the farm.

But the couple didn’t start out this way. Cassidy earned a degree in environmental studies from UCSB and worked in the local hospitality industry. Marko was an academic from Greece earning a PhD in genetics and evolutionary biology. The two met in the Santa Ynez Valley after attending USCB, and both had a strong commitment to sustainable and responsible eating. Marko was ardent about using every piece of an animal for cooking. Through her studies, Cassidy knew about regenerative agriculture alternatives, and she wanted to eat that food and support those farmers.

Opposite: Cassidy Alexandrou with the baby lambs.

They raise chickens for eggs at Motley Crew Ranch.

“When we first moved to the farm, we only wanted space to do our own gardening. We had no intention of raising animals for meat or running a business,” Cassidy says, “but we had a lot of trouble finding organic, local meat for direct sale that was raised humanely.”

So the couple decided to start raising their own meat, starting with chickens. Pretty soon, there were goats and then more. The story Marko tells is that Cassidy promised him goat cheese, and soon they were farming on a larger scale.

“There was such a consumer demand for this that we fell right into it,” he says. And there’s no looking back. They now raise Black Angus/Wagyu cows; Duroc and Gloucestershire Old Spot pigs; California and New Zealand rabbits; Dorper and Texel sheep; Nubian, Oberhasli and Nigerian Dwarf dairy goats; Spanish and Boer brush goats; Jumbo Coturnix quail, pigeons and lots of kinds of chickens. “Everything under the sun,” says Cassidy.

They sell to various local restaurants (including the one where they met on a blind date!) as well as to CSA and Ranch Share customers. They even opened a retail shop to sell their artisan, handcrafted sausage, meats from their farm and other local ranches, local seafood from fisherwomen and -men (Marko likes to go

out fishing with them) plus local cheese and artisan foods and veggies from local farms.

Marko is the creative mind behind the Marketplace—which will be opening soon in Buellton. His love and respect for the animals speak to his passion for making sausage, bacon and charcuterie. Being a scientist and a cook, he has an analytical and creative brain behind everything he does. “I love to create a good product I can be proud of with meraki,” says Marko. Meraki is the Greek word for the act of injecting love, creativity and passion into a project. The word clearly resonates with Marko and he adds, “We’re also passionate about supporting other farmers and producers doing the same.”

Watch for the Marketplace’s Hot Food Saturdays, when they offer prepped, to-go meals. They also hold Greek gyro pop-ups you don’t want to miss (get their recipe at the Last Bite on page 64).

Motley Crew Ranch is growing, thanks to mindful eaters in Santa Barbara County. The farm is ramping up poultry (including chicken, turkey, quail and squab) and rabbits, as well as the CSA and Ranch Shares. These are animals that can legally be processed at the farm. For pork, beef, lamb and goat, they must take the livestock to a USDA-approved facility. And the closest is in Creston—a two-hour drive that adds stress for the animals. So, Cassidy volunteers her time to work on a local

board with Santa Barbara County Food Action Network to find alternatives that are closer to home.

“We have to improve the way we do things,” Cassidy says. “There is a better way to raise and harvest the animals we eat. Nothing about this process is simple or easy, but giving animals the best life possible…” she pauses. “A good life and happy animal produce a better product, and that is worth paying for.”

Resources

Find their meat at Ballard Inn, Bell’s, Coast Range, Eye on I, Full of Life Flatbread, Industrial Eats, Peasants Feast. Motley Crew Marketplace will be reopening soon in a new location at 225 McMurray Rd. in Buellton. Order a CSA or join a Ranch Share at www.MotleyCrewRanch.com. Find out more about advocating for a more localized food system at www.SBCFoodAction.org

The lambs they raise are Dorper/Texel crosses.

Liz Dodder is a drinker, eater and traveler who has eaten five kinds of foie gras in one day. She’s also a blogger, writer, photographer, recipe developer, web designer, social media maven and Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). www.CaliCoastWineCountry.com

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Photo: Nell Campbell

BIOCHAR’S BIG CARBON-RICH MOMENT?

Experts and advocates say it’s time to address the soil amendment’s limitations so that its potential as an agricultural climate solution can be realized.

WORDS BY Lisa Held

Biochar created from thinned conifer in Yew Creek Forest, Oregon.

On the day the Tigercat carbonator—a machine that looks like a giant metal dumpster mounted on Snowcat-style treads—arrived in western Montana from Oregon, Michael Schaedel set to work navigating “a colossus” over narrow, rolling forest roads.

As a forester for the Nature Conservancy, Schaedel works to thin and restore 500,000 acres of former industrial timberland to make it more resistant to wildfires. And he collects debris and burns it in piles so that it doesn’t become fuel for future fires. It’s a common practice, but it releases carbon dioxide into the atmosphere. So, he and others are looking instead to the carbonator— which burns the material in a way that traps carbon and creates a product called biochar.

After two weeks of trying it out, he was impressed with the results. With little to no smoke, his team was burning debris that would fill 60–80 dump trucks daily. But the second half of their plan is bound to be more difficult. Schaedel’s team hopes to persuade western Montana farmers to take the biochar and add it to their soils.

It should be a relatively easy sell, as a growing body of research suggests that biochar might just be the most versatile soil health tool available—and an important climate solution. Biochar particles are incredibly porous, creating nooks and

crannies in the soil that hold on to excess nutrients, water, and microbes. Adding them to fields can reduce nitrogen and phosphorus runoff that pollutes waterways, help soil retain moisture in drought-stricken areas and stimulate microbial activity. Most importantly, biochar is one of the most stable, long-lasting forms of carbon available. In the right conditions, it can last hundreds—and even thousands—of years, potentially holding on to significant amounts of carbon that would otherwise end up in the atmosphere as carbon dioxide.

“The evidence is very strong that it’s the best approach [to carbon sequestration],” said Chuck Hassebrook, head of the National Center for Appropriate Technology’s (NCAT) Biochar Policy Project. “But it’s not something we can turn around and do tomorrow at scale. We don’t have the biochar production facilities, and there are knowledge gaps that we need to fill.”

Now, this little-known tool may receive a boost in Washington. In 2022, lawmakers in both houses of Congress introduced the Biochar Research Network Act. And if it passes, the legislation will set up a national network of up to 20 research sites focused on biochar as a climate solution on farms.

“We know that biochar amendments improve the quality of soil and that, in turn, has positive benefits to drawing down carbon,” said LaKisha Odom, the scientific director

Biochar particles are incredibly porous, creating nooks and crannies in the soil that hold on to excess nutrients, water, and microbes.

The Tigercat 6050 carbonator.

for soil health at the Foundation for Food & Agriculture Research (FFAR), which hosted an event in March dedicated to biochar research and commercialization in partnership with NCAT and American Farmland Trust (AFT). “But there is additional research needed… to really provide solutions and recommendations to farmers and ranchers.”

What Biochar Can and Can’t Do

Biochar is a form of charcoal, made through a process called pyrolysis, that involves heating organic biomass while depriving it of oxygen.

In Montana, the carbonator burns limbs, branches and small trees in a fiery box, where a fan blows air downward continuously, accelerating the burn and keeping the smoke down, Schaedel explained. As the charred wood particles burn and get smaller, they drop into water, which stops the burn. The final product is biochar.

Self-proclaimed hippie homesteader Dale Hendricks doesn’t have an expensive machine and prefers to make biochar in metal barrels. Hendricks grows and sells native plants, proselytizes about permaculture and has been making his own biochar in southeastern Pennsylvania since 2009. He sprinkles it in his chicken coop to reduce the smell of the manure and continuously adds it to his compost, where it helps create carbon-rich, vibrant soil that helps plants thrive. But Hendricks and others say the hype around biochar as a climate silver bullet has sometimes led to the opposite effect: Many farmers and scientists discount it entirely.

“Please don’t let the idea get out there that there are fanatics that think char is going to save the world,” he said. “We want it to take its place as a tool. It’s great, long-term, practically permanent structural soil improvement.”

Especially in drought-prone areas, there is strong evidence that biochar can improve how much water soils hold, said Deborah Page-Dumroese, who has been studying the practice for 12 years as part of her research on forest resilience in Colorado. And given the intensity and length of recent droughts in the West, the impacts they’re already having on agriculture and the fact that the trend is likely to continue, that’s no small thing.

“We’re also pretty confident that forest-made biochar could be used in places like feedlots to absorb manure and contaminants in the manure,” she said, “and that biochar can improve the forage capabilities of pastureland.”

Interest in those agricultural uses appears to be picking up steam. In September, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) named the U.S. Biochar Initiative (USBI) as a partner in a $30 million effort to lower the carbon footprint of beef.

As for biochar’s ability to draw more carbon into the ground, studies have shown that it remained stable in the terra preta soils of the Amazon River basin for thousands of years. But the fact that the carbon can stay stable for that length of time doesn’t mean it will.

How long it stays in place depends on the size of the particles and the texture of the soil, Page-Dumroese said. Farm practices like tillage might disturb it, too. And because the particles hold on to nitrogen, there is a limit to how much can be applied to the soil before the biochar competes with the plants for nutrients.

In the latest report from the U.N.’s Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), the expert authors use the word biochar 188 times and conclude that it “has significant mitigation.” Project Drawdown estimates that widespread use of biochar as a soil amendment could reduce global emissions by between 1.3 and 3 gigatons of CO2 equivalent per year by 2050, which is slightly more significant than the potential impact of scaling up ocean power and slightly less than increasing the number of hybrid cars on the road by around twentyfold.

However, those estimations are based on the production of between 63 and 188 million metric tons of biochar globally, and production capacity as a major limitation.

Forest biochar distributed in Yew Creek Forest, Oregon.

A Laundry List of Limitations

Statistics about the size of the U.S. biochar industry are hard to come by, but Tom Miles, head of USBI, estimates that there are about 150 commercial producers in the country, creating between 70,000 and 100,000 tons per year—a drop in the bucket of the 63 million tons needed.

Most of the biochar being produced in the U.S. is a byproduct of biomass energy plants. But low-cost natural gas has eroded the market for biomass energy, Miles said, challenging the industry’s ability to grow. And cost is not just an issue for the big producers.

In Pennsylvania, Sparks Topsoil & Mulch, one of the few companies making biochar at a commercial scale in the region, recently stopped. According to a spokesperson, production costs were so high the company was not breaking even.

One way to cut production costs is to avoid transporting the materials, which is why Page-Dumroese and Schaedel have both

focused on “in-forest” production. But Schaedel said getting more farmers on board with using it could also help. “Costs could come down if there was a reliable market,” he said.

Still, Schaedel discovered logistical headaches with his approach. The carbonator uses a lot of water, which he had to have trucked in each day.

And although he has no shortage of accessible wood to burn, it’s not clear whether there are enough materials available to produce biochar at a scale that would reduce emissions at any significant rate. Back in 2016, the U.S. Department of Energy’s researchers calculated that the country could have an estimated billion tons of biomass available annually to put toward biomass energy and the production of biochar and other similar products.

In addition to forest slash piles and crop residues, biochar can be made with some food waste and animal manure. But depending on what it’s made from, its properties change.

Next Steps

With that potential and the impacts of the climate crisis in mind, Hassebrook said it’s long past time to commit “major federal dollars” to practical research that would enable farmers to begin using biochar at a meaningful scale. He says the agency has already proposed adding the use of biochar as a soil amendment as an approved practice under one of its major conservation programs, which would allow farmers to apply for funding to help defray the costs of using it on their fields.

But the Biochar Research Network Act would push biochar forward as an agricultural climate solution in a new way. And as Farm Bill negotiations heat up, many conservation and farm groups will be pushing for expanding farmers’ access to the practice.

The Department of Energy also has funds to invest in bioenergy facilities, Hassebrook said. His group is urging the department to “put some weight on the benefits of biochar co-produced with fuel and trying to ratchet up the priority on funding more pilot and demonstration facilities.”

In the meantime, states are also investing funding in biochar as a soil amendment. For example, Schaedel’s project was partially funded by a $288,000 grant from the State of Montana.

Now that the production phase of the experiment is finished, 120 cubic yards of biochar is sitting in the Montana woods under a blanket of fresh snow. Come spring, his team will transport it to farms where farmers have agreed to do field trials on pastures and croplands. “That’s the exciting part— actually getting this product out of the woods and into the fields,” he said. “Our hope here is to really demonstrate the potential in western Montana.”

In order to scale its impact as a climate solution, that momentum will need to spread to agricultural regions coast to coast.

PHOTO CC-LICENSED BY NRCS OREGON

La Super-Rica Taqueria How It Began, Why We Love It and What’s New

WORDS BY Janice Cook Knight

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVEN BROWN

It’s no secret that I have always been a fan of La Super-Rica Taqueria. It was one of the first restaurants I discovered after moving here in 1986. I wrote a story about it in 1999, singing its praises, and I still love it just as much; eating there is always a treat, and I say honestly that I’ve been served consistently wonderful meals. The only deterrent is the long line out the door—sometimes I don’t like to wait.

Much has been written about La Super-Rica and its founder, owner Isidoro Gonzalez, affectionately referred to as Izzy, including the (true) story that La Super-Rica was Julia Child’s favorite Mexican restaurant.

Why write more now? What has changed in 43 years of business? I hadn’t eaten there at all during the pandemic, although I could have (should have) purchased food to go. When I began eating there again last year, I was surprised— delightfully so—by the many creative specials on offer and that new specials appeared on different days and from week to week. Isidoro, who is often at the order window and is very friendly with customers, described many new dishes the restaurant was serving.

“We now offer eight kinds of chiles rellenos,” he told me. A recent relleno filled with seasoned ground beef and served with both a tomato sauce and a cream sauce was a delightful surprise

(Chile Relleno de Res de Picadillo). I have always loved the Tamal de Verduras, a vegetable-stuffed tamale with salsa crema (a simple Mexican cream sauce). Now the restaurant offers 13 different kinds of tamales, including two dessert tamales.

Recently I chatted with Isidoro about the changes at the restaurant, and he told me the story of how La Super-Rica came to be.

“This place,” Isidoro says, “started as a miracle, and it continues to be one.” He is gazing thoughtfully over the restaurant’s large, covered patio. Winter or summer, this casual spot, with a wooden floor, windows and canvas covering painted bright aqua and white, is the place to come for excellent regional Mexican dishes.

Isidoro was born in Guadalajara, Mexico, but grew up in Santa Barbara, so he is practically a native. He was in college at UCSB when a year’s educational trip abroad to Mexico City revealed to him a wider world of Mexican foods than what he’d experienced growing up here.

He remembers his first taste of a soft taco, a taco al carbon.

It was a revelation and very simple: a freshly prepared soft corn tortilla, grilled meat and salsa. It was “one of the tastiest things I had ever eaten. It was a high-level culinary experience.”

Returning from the year abroad, he entered a program to become a high school Spanish teacher, which allowed him

Isidoro Gonzalez (Izzy) and Julia Child at La Super-Rica Taqueria.

PHOTO COURTESY OF ISIDORO GONZALES

to student teach at City College. He enjoyed working with the college students and eventually applied to the master’s program, planning to teach at the college level.

Several times between 1974 and ’78, Isidoro traveled back to Mexico, often visiting the taco places. He started to think it would be nice to offer soft tacos in Santa Barbara. At the time, no restaurant here was doing that. “Maybe I could do it,” he wondered. The thought became more and more his. By the time the master’s program ended, he knew that he would not continue teaching. And he knew he had to do something else.

It was “now or never.” Isidoro returned to Mexico City for three months to acquire some experience. It wasn’t much time, but it was something. He worked as a waiter, a dishwasher and a cook’s aide, in different spots. He could only stay for so long and thought, “I’ve learned a few things— now let’s see what I can do.”

He had no experience running a business or much experience cooking. It was scary. Money was not abundant, but there was enough. He found the building. His aunt offered to make tortillas. He had met someone with cooking experience who could work the grill. And a good friend offered the necessary encouragement, believed in what he wanted to do and thought others would like the tacos, too. He helped Isidoro set up the practical aspects of the business.

Chile Rellenos

Chile Relleno de Res de Picadillo

Chile Relleno de Verduras

Cheese Chile Relleno in a Cream Sauce

Isidoro recalls their opening day. “It felt right… it felt right.” A friend and reporter for the News-Press, Jenny Perry, wrote an article right before La Super-Rica’s opening, which helped bring in business. That original menu offered 11 tacos, which on the current blackboard menu are tacos #1–6, #7, #9, #10, #11 and #12. Eleven simple tacos made in the style of Mexico City, including Tacos de Rajas: pasilla chile strips, onions and cheese; and Alambre de Filete: grilled tri-tip with onions, bell peppers and bacon.

There were no beans; possibly they had guacamole, he’s not sure. If not initially, it was soon added. He added beans, his signature Frijol with Bacon, Chorizo and Chile, in 1981. Customers had been clamoring for beans. The perfectly cooked beans in a broth are one of my favorite menu items—so simple and good.

Customers also requested rice and enchiladas, which would eventually be added. Sopes arrived in 1982. The vegetarian Tamal de Verduras (the masa for the tamal is made with butter) was added in 1986.

How did Julia Child hear about the restaurant? Julia had often visited Santa Barbara, even as a child, and eventually retired here. Friends recommended La Super-Rica to her. And Isidoro says she ate at La Super-Rica for the first time in the spring of ’82, along with her husband and two friends. After the meal, Julia came to the order window and thanked him graciously for the delicious food. Not knowing who she was, he thought she was just an enthusiastic customer. It wasn’t until someone pointed her out that he understood. Later he noticed her many cookbooks at a bookstore.

Some of the recent specials to look for at La Super-Rica Taqueria

Sopes de Pollo —thick masa cups filled with chicken, vegetables and avocado.

Tamal de Verduras —a vegetarian tamale filled with vegetables and cheese and topped with salsa crema.

Enchiladas de Plaza, a Santa Barbara specialty—filled with chicken and vegetables.

Tamal Norteño de Puerco —filled with fresh shredded pork, vegetables and herbs and topped with a tomato sauce.

Cheese Chile Relleno —in a cream sauce.

Chile Relleno de Res de Picadillo —a chile stuffed with ground beef and vegetables with two sauces, tomato and crema.

Pozole Roja —a soup with pork and hominy in a red sauce.

They also offer Arroz a la Mexicana (Mexican-style rice); a refreshing agua fresca made with cantaloupe; two dessert tamales in the Chiapas style, one flavored with coconut, the other with cinnamon and anise; and a delicious Chiapas-style vanilla pudding, Budin de Vainilla, not too sweet, just right.

Alambre de Filete

Hector Delgadillo (left) and the team at work in the compact kitchen.

Also, in about ’83 or ’84, Ruth Reichl, then the food editor for the Los Angeles Times, wrote a story for the paper. She praised the restaurant for its good, honest, home-style cooking. Isidoro appreciated her comments, thinking she understood what the restaurant was trying to do.

It was after her story ran that he started noticing longer lines forming at the order window.

Before that, the restaurant had been growing slowly and gradually. It began to take off. He did, of course, notice the attention the restaurant was getting—people taking pictures and praising it—but it was still a surprise to him. In 1985, Julia asked if she could feature La Super-Rica in a program she was televising about Santa Barbara. This was long before social media, but the restaurant was becoming a phenomenon.

To say it’s been busy ever since is largely true. I drive down Milpas Street often, and unless it is late afternoon there is almost always a line out the door and, often, quite a way down the street. And Isidoro is a very busy man. He loves what he is doing and is content to give the business the attention it deserves.

“Some of the simplest foods I’ve had are the most delicious,” Isidoro tells me. I call it honest cooking: quality ingredients are prepared well and result in great flavor. The cook, the ingredients and the cooking all come together, creating satisfaction in that meal, that moment. Isidoro refers to this kind of cooking as “inspired,” something so good, he says, “I could eat that every day.”

I asked him if he had ever thought about expansion. Seven years ago, Isidoro acquired more commercial kitchen space in a building near the restaurant. That extra cooking space allows La Super-Rica, in its existing location, to offer the great tacos it’s always had, plus a large variety of regular specials.

Pozole Rojo, a soup of pork, hominy and chiles, is offered every Sunday. Eventually, he’d like to offer more soups; occasionally, there’s been a shrimp soup or a simple soup of zucchini and corn. Isidoro gets ideas and tweaks them according to his taste. He knows well the foods of Mexico City and the foods of Oaxaca. Some of the recipes reflect a particular region of Mexico; several of the specials represent the foods of Chiapas. But the enchiladas with chicken and vegetables I had recently—his own invention—he attributed to “Santa Barbara.”

The restaurant now sells 13 different tamales, including the verduras and puerco tamales, which are available every week. There is a tamale pescado, a chiapaneco (chicken and mole, in banana leaves), tamal de pollo en Azafran, as well as the two dessert tamales Tamalito de Coco (coconut) and Tamalito de Canele y Anis, flavored with cinnamon and anise. The chicken in Azafran tamale and the dessert tamales are specialties of the Chiapas region.

In the future, he would like to offer Oaxaca-style eggs in a special tomato sauce. He’s planning on more Oaxacan food for the next couple of years, and after that would like to cover the foods of Puebla. He also loves the dishes of Michoacan, Merida and Veracruz.

Isidoro Gonzalez simply wants to provide tasty food for his customers. It’s a humble goal he and his team work hard to achieve. Forty-three years on, La Super-Rica Taqueria is still getting better and better.

Janice Cook Knight is an award-winning writer, cookbook author and cooking teacher based in Santa Barbara. She enjoys gardening, music and the science of cooking, and is thrilled by a good recipe. She blogs with her daughter Sarah Migliaccio Barnes at TriedAndTrueKitchen.com and can be found on Instagram @triedtruekitchen.

REJUVENATION:

WORDS BY Pascale Beale

This past winter, as root vegetables grew safely encased in their earthy robes, cozy and nourished by the soil that surrounded them, we too were bundled up in sweaters and coats, sloshing around in gumboots, dealing with the endless rain.

However, after months of potatoes, celery root, carrots, parsnips, soups, stews, apples, pears and all things rib-sticking, I longed for something fresh, crisp, green and invigorating. Almost as though Mother Nature sensed this longing, the farmers’ fields exploded with an edible profusion of all things crunchy, bright and revitalizing. It was a sign—along with daffodils, the first tulips, gurgling streams and grass-covered mountains the color of a Granny Smith apple—that spring was here.

Spying mounds of just-picked asparagus at the market is a true harbinger of the new season. With it come large bunches of freshly picked herbs, spring peas delicate enough to eat raw, English peas, plump fava bean pods with their bright green gems tucked inside their velvety cases, and the sweet seductive scent of ripe strawberries. I often get carried away during these first visits to the spring markets and come home with baskets laden with a profusion of greenery, making salads galore and trying new pesto recipes that have been dancing in the corners of my imagination. Inhaling the aroma of freshly blitzed greens and munching on raw asparagus stalks is a rejuvenating tonic for the senses.

When I was growing up, asparagus spears were a luxury item. I have no memory of ever eating them in England when I was small, but rather discovered them in France at my grandmother’s table, and even then they were a rare treat. She would steam them and serve them warm with a light, mustardy vinaigrette with a sprinkling of freshly chopped chives from her garden. This is still one of my favorite ways to eat them. In my later teens, traveling around Europe, in Italy and Austria I discovered the pleasures of white asparagus: fat, juicy, slightly bitter and herbaceous. Served with hollandaise or simple melted butter they were the crème de la crème.

There are few farmers that grow the white variety locally as they are so labor intensive and therefore expensive to produce. So when I do find some, I’ll rush to make a green and white asparagus tart or multicolored shaved asparagus salad. When abundant spring rains produce a fresh sprouting of wild mushrooms (as they did this year) local foragers harvest chanterelles to bring to the markets. If I find them both I’ll jump at the chance to make a sautéed mushroom and asparagus salad, a spring risotto with glistening golden mushroom slices and al dente asparagus tips mixed into the creamy cheesy rice or served with poached chicken in a light mustard and crème fraîche sauce, a dish inspired by my late grandmother. These dishes are just the overture of the season, with the full symphony of spring produce

“The beautiful spring came; and when Nature resumes her loveliness, the human soul is apt to revive also.” —Harriet Ann Jacobs

yet to come. All this greenery gets my cooking juices flowing. I keep returning to the market to see what the new season brings next: When will apricots and cherries arrive, or fava beans?

I’m fortunate to have a number of friends with very green thumbs, and who like to share their abundant bounty. Last year, when I happened to mention that I loved fava beans, I came home one day to find an enormous box by my front door. It was overflowing with pounds and pounds of favas. I was a little dazed by the quantity and set about shucking them out of their pods, as I thought about what to make with them. Adding them to the aforementioned risotto came to mind, as did a spring tart with peas, favas and goat cheese, but I had a sudden craving for an avocado toast type dish, so made a fava bean smash—a truly luscious chunky mash of favas with lots of herbs, olive oil and lemon juice, inspired by the Egyptian dish Ful Medames. It’s so versatile you could eat this for breakfast, lunch and dinner (and I did), serving it on toast, in a salad or as a side dish.

Spring is also a time for juicy fruit; think of plump cherries and all the multihued nectarines, apricots, pluots and plums. It’s also strawberry season. They are among the first of the season’s fruit to ripen after the cool winter months. According to the Seneca people (and other Iroquois nations), the rising of the Strawberry Moon—on June 3 this year—heralds a sacred time.

The strawberry is a fruit that represents rebirth and hope. Long associated symbolically and in mythology with love, birth and fertility, the Seneca hold an annual strawberry festival, the highlight of which is the sharing of a specially prepared strawberry juice, traditionally made with wild berries picked on the day of the strawberry moon mixed with maple syrup and water. As each person drinks the juice—thought to have restorative and invigorating properties because of the berries’ heart shape—they give thanks to the Great Spirit for all the blessings they received and for surviving the winter.

In Jane Eyre, Charlotte Brontë wrote, “Spring drew on… and a greenness grew over those brown beds, which, freshening daily, suggested the thought that Hope traversed them at night, and left each morning brighter traces of her steps.”

I like to think that as the earth warms through the early spring days, its first gift is a blossoming of gorgeous berries. Good strawberries, red to their core, are sweet, juicy and ambrosial. Wild strawberries have a particularly special floral aroma and taste. Biting into a perfect strawberry is joyous sensation with a hint of tang and deeply satisfying fruity notes that linger on the tongue. Anyone who has tasted a bland berry with lackluster taste and pale flesh knows how disappointing this can be. Our patience is rewarded, for as the fruit ripen they release their tantalizing scent; this is the time to delve into a plethora of strawberryinspired dishes, and to be invigorated by the fecundity of the all the season’s treats.

RECIPES

MAKES 8 APPETIZER SERVINGS

2 pounds fava beans

Olive oil

Salt

Pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped basil

1 tablespoon finely chopped mint

1 tablespoon finely chopped chives

8 slices olive bread, toasted

Lemon olive oil

1 buffalo mozzarella, sliced

4 slices prosciutto

2 ripe avocadoes, halved, peeled and sliced

2 lemons, quartered

Shell the fava beans. Slit open the pods and remove the beans. Boil the beans in heavily salted water for 1 minute. Drain and immediately plunge the beans into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking and set the bright color.

Tear the tough skin at the rounded end and squeeze out the bean. Heat a little olive oil in a medium pan. Add the shelled fava beans, a pinch of salt and 4–5 grinds pepper and cook for 3–4 minutes. The beans should be fork tender but not mushy.

Place the fava beans in a mixing bowl and drizzle with a little more olive oil. Roughly mash the beans with a fork.

Add the basil, mint and chives and mix well.

Drizzle a little lemon olive oil over each toast.

Cover 4 of the toasts with a slice of mozzarella, a slice of prosciutto and some sliced avocado. Cover the remaining toasts with a slice of mozzarella and some sliced avocado.

Spoon the fava beans over each toast. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. Serve with lemon wedges to squeeze over the toasts.

This is the tart to make when you want a knockout dessert that everyone will ooh and ahh over. It’s beautiful and packed with strawberry succulence.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

FOR THE TART SHELL

9 ounces (13⁄4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

5 1 ⁄2 ounces (11 tablespoons) butter, cut in small pieces

Zest of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon powdered sugar

1 large egg

Pinch of salt

FOR THE SIMPLE JAM

2 pints strawberries, hulled and halved

5 ounces ( 2 ⁄3 cup) sugar

1 tablespoon honey

1 Meyer lemon, halved and juiced, reserve the rinds

FOR THE TART

32–36 large strawberries, hulled and halved

TO PREPARE THE TART SHELL

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Butter a 12-inch round fluted tart pan. Set aside.

Place all the ingredients in the bowl of the food processor fitted with the metal blade. Pulse until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Use longer pulses until the dough forms a ball.

Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes. (You can make the dough ahead of time and remove it from the fridge 20 minutes before using.)

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to a 14-inch round, 1 ⁄4 inch thick. Then line the tart pan with the dough. Trim the edges with a sharp knife and prick the dough with a fork.

Line the dough with a piece of parchment paper and fill the tart shell with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 20 minutes, until the edges are just golden. Remove the parchment paper and the pie weights. Bake the tart for 3–4 more minutes. The shell should be golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool on a wire rack.

TO MAKE THE SIMPLE JAM

Place all the ingredients, including lemon rinds, into a large saucepan over medium heat. As the strawberries begin to render some juice, mash them using a large fork or a potato masher.

Cook for 10–13 minutes, skimming off any foam. The jam is ready when it thickens enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. The rinds stay in the jam, but you don’t serve or use them. They help to set the jam.

TO ASSEMBLE THE TART

Brush the tart shell with half of the jam. Around the edge of the tart, place the strawberry halves upright and slightly overlapping each other. Use the remaining strawberries to form concentric circles toward the center. Lightly brush the strawberries with some of the jam.

This dish is a play on the classic French dish poulet a l’estragon, a roast chicken scented with the floral and anise–tasting tarragon. This is a lighter, more delicate version that uses that same flavor profile. The chicken, which is thinly sliced, plays a supporting role here. It is a quick dish to prepare so it’s easy to make any night of the week, yet also elegant enough for a special dinner party.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

1 pound white asparagus, ends trimmed, cut on a bias into 2-inch pieces, leaving the tips whole

1 pound green asparagus, ends trimmed, cut on a bias into 2-inch pieces, leaving the tips whole

Olive oil

3 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

Salt

Pepper

5–6 sprigs tarragon leaves

3 cups vegetable stock

1 ⁄2 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into thin pieces

3 tablespoons crème fraîche

2 tablespoons Dijon or tarragon mustard

2 tablespoons finely chopped chives

Steam the asparagus until just tender, 5 minutes or so. Remove from the steamer.

Pour a little olive oil into a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots, a good pinch of salt and 7–8 grinds of pepper. Sauté until just golden, about 3–5 minutes. Stir in the tarragon leaves. Add the vegetable stock and cook for 2 minutes.

Poach the chicken in the stock for 6–8 minutes, turning the pieces frequently. Stir in the crème fraîche and mustard and simmer for 1–2 minutes. Add the asparagus and chives, and warm through. Serve in deep plates or shallow bowls with plenty of the cooking liquid.

A chunk of crusty bread is delicious alongside to mop up all those aromatic juices.

Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of The Menu for All Seasons, Salade II, Les Fruits and Les Legumes. Visit her website and blog: The Market Table at PascalesKitchen.com.

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SANTABARBARA & WINE COUNTRY

SUPPORT LOCAL GUIDE

Now more than ever, it’s important to seek out and support local businesses. Here is our guide of the current advertisers that we fully support and hope you will, too. Visit the websites to get more information about what they offer and any updated hours of operation.

Farms & Ranches

Babé Farms

805 925-4144

www.BabeFarms.com

Babé Farms boasts a year-round harvest of colorful baby and specialty vegetables, grown in the Santa Maria Valley. Family-owned and -operated, Babé Farms is the “couture” label top chefs and fine retailers look to for their gourmet vegetable needs.

Winfield Farm

805 686-9312

www.WinfieldFarm.us

Taste the magic of Winfield Farm Mangalitsa at these special places: Niner Wine Estates in Paso Robles, Pico at the General Store in Los Alamos, and we’re delighted to announce our new relationship with Michelin star restaurant First and Oak at the Mirabelle Inn in Solvang. You can also order through our Mangalitsa Market on the Winfield Farm website—please call first! Follow us on Facebook (WinfieldFarmBuellton), Twitter (@WinfieldFarm.us) and Instagram (Winfield_Farm).

Food & Restaurants

Acme Hospitality

805 456-6804

Events@AcmeHospitality.com

www.AcmeHospitality.com/private-events/

Emphasizing seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, Acme Hospitality offers inspiring event menus— from Spanish tapas and paella at Loquita and scratch-made dishes at The Lark to early California ranchero-influenced flavors at La Paloma Cafe. They have more than 15 immaculately appointed spaces— accommodating anywhere from 12 to 200 guests

Bob’s Well Bread

550 Bell St., Los Alamos, CA

805 344-3000

2249 Baseline Ave., Ballard, CA 805 691-9549

www.BobsWellBread.com

Now in two locations with convenient online ordering, Bob’s makes bread the old-fashioned way: handcrafted in small batches with the finest ingredients and baked to perfection in a custom-built stone-deck oven. Drop

in to taste what visitors and journalists are raving about as “worth the drive” about—signature Pain au Levain, award-winning artisanal breads, croissants and specialty pastries. All-day menu of made-to-order breakfast, lunch and weekly special dishes. Indooroutdoor picturesque café. Los Alamos: Thu–Mon 7am–4pm. Ballard: Thu–Mon 8am–4pm. Café closes at 3pm. Closed Tue and Wed.

Chocolate Maya

15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara 805 965-5956

www.ChocolateMaya.com

Chocolate Maya handmade chocolate confections: a variety of velvety truffles and chocolate-dipped temptations that are made from the highest-quality chocolate (Valrhona, Felchlin, Conexion, including small bean-to-bar artisans couverture) fresh local ingredients and exotic findings from their travels overseas. Covid-19 hours noon–5pm every day. Closed on Wednesday.

Global Gardens

3570 Madera Street, Santa Ynez 805 686-4111

www.GlobalGardensOnline.com

Global Gardens grows, produces and sells awardwinning organic olive oils, balsamic vinegars, organic mustards, snacks, gift baskets and more. Santa Barbara’s first extra virgin olive oil producer since their first harvest in 1998. A true family business with expert knowledge and love for the land.

Olive Hill Farm

2901 Grand Ave., Los Olivos 805 693-0700

www.OliveHillFarm.com

Specializing in local olive oils, flavored oils and balsamic vinegars as well as many locally produced food products. Olive oil and vinegar tastings with fresh local bread available. Open Thu–Mon 11am–5pm.

Plow to Porch

805 895-7171

www.PlowToPorch.com

Plow to Porch Organics is a local organic/pesticide-free produce and grocery delivery service to members who subscribe. They simplify the purchase of local fresh organic produce and other organic, local foods in order to inspire good nutrition, support local farmers, protect

the environment and make eating healthy food fun! Subscriptions start at $22.50.

Wine & Beer

Au Bon Climat

813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 963-7999

www.AuBonClimat.com

The tasting room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library are known for world-class Chardonnays and Pinots, yet other varietals are available. Jim Clendenen made wines of vision and character for over 30 years. Amazing lineup of current releases and library wines on hand. Tasting room open Mon–Fri noon–6pm, Sat and Sun 11am–6pm. Outdoor wine tasting daily. Reservations recommended.

Babi’s Beer Emporium

380 Bell St., Los Alamos 805 344-1911

www.BabisBeerEmporium.com

Great beer. Impeccable selection. Great fun. Adventurous beer drinkers can discover unique, hardto-find craft beers, ciders and special projects—on tap or in bottle. Stay to have a bite from Dim Sama’s menu.

Thu–Sat noon–7pm, Sun noon–6pm, Mon noon–4pm, Tue–Wed by appointment only.

Carhartt Family Wines

2939 Grand Ave., Los Olivos 805 325-9274

www.CarharttFamilyWines.com

The “Carhartt Cabin” tasting room is the only brickand-mortar location to taste and purchase Carhartt Family Wines. They pour over 20 seasonal selections throughout the year, allowing guests to taste an assortment of varietals and blends. Open daily 11am–6/6:30pm.

Casa Dumetz

388 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1900

www.CasaDumetzWines.com

A boutique winery specializing in Rhône varietals crafted with premier Santa Barbara County fruit. Their wines are sold almost exclusively at their tasting room in historic Los Alamos and through their wine club.

Thu–Sat noon–7pm, Sun noon–6pm, Mon noon–4pm, Tue–Wed by appointment.

Foxen Vineyard & Winery

7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-4251

www.FoxenVineyard.com

The Foxen Boys’ winery and tasting room features Burgundian and Rhône-style wines. Visit the historic shack “Foxen 7200” for Italian and Bordeaux-style wines. Picnic tables and scenic views at both locations. Open daily by reservation.

Margerum & Barden

Tasting Room at the Hotel Californian, corner Winery Tasting Room, 59 Industrial Way, Buellton; 805 686-8500

www.MargerumWines.com

Enjoy wine tasting, order from their menu and stock up on provisions at the combined Margerum and Barden Tasting Room across the street from Hotel Californian in the Santa Barbara Funk Zone. Indoor and outdoor patio seating, with an indoor mezzanine that can host private events. Handcrafted Rhône varietal wines from Margerum Estate Vineyard and from grapes grown at top Santa Barbara County vineyards. All complemented with a simple fare menu—cheese and charcuterie, pizzas, paninis, salads and other foods to complement the wine. The winery in Buellton is open by appointment for wine tasting and winery tours.

Meritage Wine Market

18 W. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara 805 845-0777

SantaBarbara.MeritageWineMarket.com

Meritage Wine Market offers the best personal wine experience with the core belief that making great wine is a complex process but choosing one shouldn’t be. They manage their customers’ needs with wine selections specifically chosen for their individual purpose and fulfilling the highest-quality wine within budget. Open Tue–Sat 11am–6pm.

Riverbench Vineyard & Winery

137 Anacapa St., Ste. C., Santa Barbara 805 324-4100

6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-8340

Riverbench.com

Established in 1973, when the first Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on the property. For years since then, some of the most renowned wineries have purchased Riverbench fruit for their wines. In 2004, Riverbench began producing their own still and sparkling wines in limited quantities, with many available exclusively through their tasting rooms in Santa Maria and Santa Barbara.

Roblar Winery

3010 Roblar Ave., Santa Ynez 805 686-2603

www. RoblarWinery.com

Nestled in an oak tree-studded 40-acre vineyard located in the heart of Santa Barbara County, Roblar Winery and Vineyards reflects the spirit of Santa Ynez Wineries—rustic, authentic and bold. They have a diverse lineup of delicious wines, farm-to-table paired delights, a locally sourced food menu, and a fantastic estate-driven experience. Open daily 11am–5pm.

Zaca Mesa Winery

6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos 805 688-9339

www.ZacaMesa.com

Since 1973, Zaca Mesa Winery has crafted distinctive wines from their unique mesa-top vineyard. As an early pioneer of the region, they now have 150 acres planted, specializing in the production of estate-grown Rhône-style wines. Tasting room and picnic area open daily 10am–4pm. Call for more information on winery tours and private event space.

Specialty Retail

ella & louie

www.EllaAndLouie.com

Floral designer Tracey Morris has two great loves: flowers and people. Relying on more than 25 years of design experience, Morris helps clients celebrate their big occasions with exquisite and expressive floral arrangements. Ella & Louie produces a range of looks from classic elegant designs to unusual and stylish. Local delivery.

Professional Services

American Riviera Bank

525 San Ysidro Rd., Montecito, 805-335-8110

www.AmericanRivieraBank.com

1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 965-5942

www.AmericanRivieraBank.com

Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Montecito branch open Mon–Thu 9am–5pm; Fri 9am–5:30pm. Santa Barbara branch open Mon–Thu 8am–5pm, Fri 8am–6pm.

Change Home Mortgage

310 927-2467

www.ChangeMtg.com

Change Home Mortgage offers traditional and nontraditional loans as diverse as the borrowers they serve.

DJ Darla Bea

805 895-3400

www.DJDarlaBea.com

DJ Darla Bea is an award-winning wedding DJ born and raised in Santa Barbara, California. She is the winner of the “Best of Event DJ in Santa Barbara” Award 2022 and has won the title for the past seven years—the only female DJ in the city to have achieved that goal.

Jasper & Oak

808 729-7207

www.Jasper-Oak.com

Jasper & Oak authentic and cinematic event coverage. The professional and affordable team of photographers and videographers expertly capture the story of your event. Their vintage Photo Booth prints on demand high-quality images and adds a wonderful and fun touch of class to any event.

SBCC Foundation

805 730-4401

www.SBCCFoundation.org

The SBCC Foundation has provided Santa Barbara City College with private philanthropic support for over 45 years, serving as the vehicle through which individuals and organizations may invest in the college and its students. The Foundation provides more than $5 million annually for the SBCC Promise, student success programs, scholarships, emergency grants and more— supporting SBCC students as they prepare for careers, transfer to four-year universities and pursue lifelong learning goals.

Taste of Santa Barbara

https://sbce.events

This Spring, Santa Barbara Culinary Experience, in partnership with The Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts, will present Taste of Santa Barbara, May 15–21, a countywide celebration of all things food and drink.

ROB HATHERILL

The Greek gyro

(pronounced “YEE-row”) made at Motley Crew’s retail Marketplace has a huge fan base. And now they have generously shared their recipe with us. Read more about Motley Crew Ranch on page 38.

MAKES 6–8 SERVINGS

2 pounds boneless pork (or lamb) shoulder roast

1 tablespoon grapeseed or other neutral oil

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 ⁄2 tablespoon cumin

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon smoked sweet paprika

1 1 ⁄2 teaspoons chili flakes

1 1 ⁄2 teaspoons pepper

2 tablespoons honey

1 1 ⁄2 teaspoons garlic powder

1 1 ⁄2 teaspoons onion powder

1 tablespoon oregano

3–4 pitas

1 ripe tomato, sliced

1 ⁄2 red onion, sliced

FOR THE TZATZIKI

1 cucumber

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Zest from 1 lemon

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Finely chopped Italian parsley or fresh dill, optional

2 cups plain Greek yogurt

Slice the meat as thin as possible. Use a mallet to tenderize and soften the meat, making the slices even more thin.

In a bowl combine the grapeseed oil, olive oil, mustard, vinegar, cumin, salt, paprika, chili flakes, pepper, honey, garlic powder, onion powder and oregano.

Add the meat to the bowl with the marinade and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, up to 12 hours.

TO MAKE THE TZATZIKI

Coarsely grate the cucumber, then strain in the sink. Squeeze as much liquid out as possible. Then press cucumber between towels. Combine garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt and any herbs into the yogurt and mix well. Add salt as needed and refrigerate at least 30 minutes. (You can keep this refrigerated for up to a week in a sealed container.)

TO COOK THE MEAT

Preheat grill to high or oven to 450°F.

Thread a slice piece of pork onto a skewer: Start by piercing through the meat twice on one end, then push it together like an accordion. Continue piercing and threading, making the meat tightly bunched together (no part of the skewer should be exposed except for handle at the bottom and the pointy top.)

Repeat until all meat is threaded onto skewers.

On a grill: Grill over high heat for about 4 minutes per side, until charred/caramelized on all sides or pork is cooked all the way through (155°).

In an oven: Place skewers on lined baking sheet in upper part of oven and roast for 10–15 minutes, turning occasionally to get the skewers evenly browned.

Let the meat rest for a few minutes, then remove from skewers and chop into bite-size pieces. Serve on top of warm pita with tzatziki, sliced tomatoes and red onion.