as.sem.blage Recalling of Time and Memory FALL WINTER 2014/2015
Reminiscent the presence......
Edison Wong stands for the muatuality between conceptual approach and artistic expression in technique and materials. The essence of his works is expressing the presence and the emotions of a woman. He believe fashion creating an exciting and imperative form of self-expression. “ I have a great passion about art and fashion. My works often reflects the theme of Expressionism. I love to express various of emotions through handworks and the use of different materials. “
MOODBOARD STORY BOARD IDEA DEVELOPMENT INSPIRATION FOR TEXTILE MANIPULATION FABRIC MANIPULATION COLLECTED DENIM CREATIVE PROCESS TARGET MARKET & MUSE MARKET SECTOR COMPETITORS PRESS RELEASE COLLECTION COSTING SHEET
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TABLE OF CONTENT
The body be 01
‘Reality ’ of an
where garme
the memory
ecomes the
n experience ent embodies
y of the past.
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FORGOTTEN
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REMINISCENT THE PRESENCE...
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Inspired by Francis Bacon’s paint-
ing - It violence aesthetic in his figurative painting demonstrated an impact to the visual eyesight and hit the nervous system of it viewer. [as.sem.blage] taking references from Francis Bacon’s ‘Study From the Human Body, 1949’ as the starting point of the collection. This painting shown an unclear figure body placing in between the curtain and facing towards the void of black gap. Symbolized an ambiguities of space, time and experience.
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IDEA DEVELOPMENT
Capturing the mood and emotional in Bacon’s painting -
Study From the Human Body, 1949, this collection explored the idea of recalling the memory of the past to reminiscent the connection between the object and the subject. It was started with the story of an women went into the black gap between the white curtain that left abandoned in the demolished house and travel back along to her past, through the space.
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An idea of collecting aged item and remaking it reality also reflect the global issue of clothes wastage. Sustainable been an issue all the time, we consume more and more, what left behind was the old pieces of clothing. The presence of one garment easily replace by time. A symbol of identity of one’s self replaced and replaced again. This lead to question the objective of recycling repeatedly. To be able to sustain, is to reconnect the pieces of garment to the wearer and documenting it moment and history.
Unpicking - Cutting - Patchworks - Forming From the process of collecting all the material needed for this collection to the process of constructing something that documented the designer’s process of making and emotions during the development of the collection. [as.sem.blage] is a series of works that reminiscent one’s memory, time and experience. This collection also as a response that reflects Edison’s graduate thesis in which the study about appropriation of Francis Bacon’s violence aesthetic from art context into radical fashion context. The idea of recycling considered one of the appropriation method that allow remixing the context from different field and generate personal identity statement. From two dimensional to three dimensional, this collection taking a personal approach of understanding the use of aesthetic appropriation and apply it own voice of the designer that wish to interact with it wearer through the making of garment.
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Inspiration For Textile Manipulation
DISTRESSED
Textures Decay Effect
Quilting
Patchworks
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ARCYLIC PAINTED
PAINTING CRACKING
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DENIM PATCHWORKS
LEATHER PATCHWORKS KNITTING
FABRIC MANIPULATION
WOOD BARK TEXTURED
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FRANCIS BACON FACE PATCHWORK
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The idea of collecting vintage pieces of denim jacket and jeans is surrounded by the concept of it durability and longevity. Collected vintage jacket will be deconstruct and reconstruct it new look through the application of distortion and trompe l’oeil effect.
COLLECTED VINTAGE DENIM JACKET
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EARLY STAGE COLLAGES
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Quilted Bacon Jacket
CREATIVE PROCESS
Digitised and distorted imagery inspires a theme that weighs equal importance on the everyday and the exceptional. This Quilted Bacon Jacket was inspired by the portrait painting painted by Francis Bacon. The distortion of the face appropriated from two dimensional into three dimensional through the technique of patchworks and quilting. This quilted jacket took a vintage Malboro jacket and reworks on it to remake it outer look that interpret the designer own narrative representation.
A texture that documents time and experience .The process of making this textile manipulation is time consuming. It need to be painted for three times at both side of the fabric. The inspiration of this textile came from the art making process. A study on Francis Bacon’s process of art making stated that Bacon taking the use of paint and create a raw imagery to reminiscent the character of his painting subject. This textile manipulation using acrylic paint and cracked medium coating that used in fine art to create the feel of aged and demolished.
WALLCRACK&TREEBARK TEXTURE MANIPULATION
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CPJ DOCUMENTATION
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DEMONGRAPHIC Female, aged 30 to 48 year old Middle class - Upper class Monthly income ranged from SGD 5000 to SGD 15,000 Marital Status - Single and Married with children aged 2-10 From urban cities - Tokyo/Seoul/Berlin/Hong Kong/London
TARGET MARKET
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PSYCHOGRAPHICS
New-Wave culturalist Intellectual/Artistic/Independent Persona Has a busy life in the thriving city with work but highly enjoy her leisure time and cultured society Working in creative industry design production: Creative director/Fashion designer/Art director Interactive: Web designer/Fashion editor/ Blogger Advertising & Marketing: Brand manager/ Public relation Shop twice in 1 to 3 months, collectative shopper Buying drive: Support the creativity/appreciated conceptual aesthetic/collecting artisanal pieces
MUSE
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JAMIE BOCHERT
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MARKET SECTOR
International Conceptual Store Price ranged from SGD 350 to SGD 2500 Primary market - Retailers & buyers Secodary market - Individuals Tertiary market - E-tailing Competitors - Maison Martin Margiela/AnnSofie Back/The Row
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COMPETITORS
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Ann Sofie Back Atelje Centered on a simplistic, Nordic-informed interpretation of the avant-garde, taking artistic approach as personal design philosophy to present the idea of new feminity. KEY POINTS: $300 - $2800 Non trend driven Strong design elements Intellectual idea behind design
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Maison Martin Margiela Revolting against the luxurious fashion world with garments of oversized proportions such as long arms, and with linings, seams and hems on the outside.Embraced the idea of reconstruction and deconstruction. KEY POINTS: $300 - $3000 Strong identity of artistic approach Sensational + alternative designs Strong concept Quality of construction & workmanship
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Ann Sara Davik Reconstruct garment that witness the designer’s conceptual engagement, sensation direction of material used and emotional approach of it design direction. KEY POINTS: $600 - $2800 Strong concept Intellectual + ritual garments Non trend driven
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PRESS RELEASE
as.sem.blage Recalling of Time and Memory “The body become the ‘reality’ of an experience where garment embodied the memory of the past.”
as.sem.blage - EDISON WONG Fall Winter 2014 collection inspired by the work of Francis Bacon. Francis Bacon was an Irish-born British figurative painter known for his violent and emotionally raw imagery. Edison Wong is interested in the idea of reminscent of the past memory and reconnect people with their memory through recycling found object like vintage denim jacket, old curtain and leather scraps.
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Reflect on today issue of sustainability, Edison Wong intend to provokes the message as the garment not just a physical object but it is something that bonding the memory and experience of it wearer time after time. This collection created based on Edison’s personal memories and experiences. It is a documentation of recalling the memory through the process of collecting old material.At the same time, transform those found object into something that reveal it beauty rather than it bored-everydayness.
For more information please contact: EDISON WONG edisonwong@hotmail.sg +65 96698855
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COLLECTION
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LINE UP
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as.sem.blage Recalling of Time and Memory
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EDISON WONG FALL WINTER 2014/2015 COLLECTION
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Denim Patchworks
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LEATHER PATCHWORKS
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COSTING SHEET
Costing Sheet Style
Season
FW14 D01
FW14
52
Number
“CURTAIN DRESS�
# 24 Hour used to complete # Rework on a piece of old curtain
Width or Size
Details
Cotton Curtain
-100% Cotton -Aged tone -Curtain loops
Trims
Details
Unit Price Quantity Total
Robe
-3 yarn twisted forming -Beige colour
$8.00
Retail $770.00
3 Metre
Price
Costing Total
Materials
$20.00
$20.00
1
$8.00
Making Price
$600
First Cost
$28
% Margin
$170
Costing Sheet 53
Style
Season
FW14 J01
FW14
Number
“QUILTED BACON JACKET�
# 50 Hour used to complete # Rework on a piece of oversized Malboro men vintage denim jacket
Width or Size
Details
Denim Jacket
-Vintage Malboro Jacket
$73.00
Trims
Details
Unit Price Quantity Total
Quilting
Retail $1890.00
Price
Costing Total
Materials
$4.00
$73.00
3$
12.00
Making Price
$1380
First Cost
$85
% Margin
$510
Costing Sheet Style
Season
FW14 P01
FW14
Number
54
“CURTAIN PANTS�
# 24 Hour used to complete # Binding finishing # Cut on one piece of old curtain
Width or Size
Details
Cotton curtain
-off white 2 Metre -curtain loops -double folding hem
$14.00
Trims
Details
Unit Price Quantity Total
Buttons
-cement textured
$1.004
$4.00
Making Price
$600
First Cost
$18
% Margin
$110
Retail $710.00
Price
Costing Total
Materials
$14.00
Costing Sheet 55
Style
Season
FW14 KO01
FW14
Number
“MIXED KNITTED JACKET�
# 40 Hour used to complete # 8 Hour of textile manipulation # Mixing leather strips and denim strips
Materials
Details
Width or Size
Special treated 2 Metre Cotton fabric with cotton fabric cracked effect Denim
Price
Costing Total
$54.00
$143
Using 1 vintage denim jacket
Leather Trims
Details
Unit Price Quantity Total
Snap Buttons
-Black colour
$0.80
Retail $2020.00
3$
2.40
Making Price
$1200
First Cost
$136
% Margin
$820
Costing Sheet Style
Season
FW14 J01
FW14
Number
56
“DOUBLE HEM 8”JEANS”
# 8 Hour used to complete # Recut on one vintage denim jacket
Width or Size
Materials
Details
Denim Fabric
Sourced from 1.5 Metre salvation army One piece$
Denim Jacket
Price
Costing Total
$25.00
$35.00
10.00
Trims
Details
Unit Price Quantity Total
Buttons
Cement textured
$1.00
1
Jeans Button
Rust textured
$2.50
1
Retail $470.00
$3.00
Making Price
$240
First Cost
$38
% Margin
$230
Costing Sheet 57
Style
Season
FW14 TD01
FW14
Number
“SQUARE TOP-DRESS�
# 8 Hour used to complete # Cut on one piece of old curtain
Width or Size
Details
Cotton Curtain
-off white color 1.5 Metre -original seam of old curtain
$10.00
Trims
Details
Unit Price Quantity Total
Retail $300.00
Price
Costing Total
Materials
$10.00
Making Price
$240
First Cost
$10
% Margin
$60
Costing Sheet Style
Season
FW14 KO02
FW14
Number
58 “CRACKED KNITTED JACKET�
# 8 Hour of textile manipulation # 30 Hour used to complete
Materials
Details
Width or Size
Price
Costing Total
Special treated 3 Metre Cotton fabric with cotton fabric cracked textured
$82.00
Trims
Details
Unit Price Quantity Total
Snaps Buttons
Black colour
$0.80
Retail $1520.00
$82.00
1
$0.80
Making Price
$1020
First Cost
$82
% Margin
$500
Denim Patchworks
Costing Sheet 59
Style
Season
FW14 P02
FW14
Number
“ASSEMBLAGE’ PANTS”
# 24 Hour used to complete # Multi pieces of scraps denim being used
Width or Size
Details
Denim
Two denim jacket + Unwanted denim scraps
$74.00
Trims
Details
Unit Price Quantity Total
Buttons
Retail $870.00
Price
Costing Total
Materials
$1.004
$74.00
$4.00
Making Price
$420
First Cost
$78
% Margin
$450
Costing Sheet Style
Season
FW14 P03
FW14
Number
60
“BLACK WALL CHUNKIES PANTS�
# 18 Hour used to complete # 4 Hour of textile manipulation # Hand painted
Width or Size
Details
Linen
Acrylic painting 3 Metre with cracked coating
$60.00
Trims
Details
Unit Price Quantity Total
Buttons
Retail $860.00
Price
Costing Total
Materials
$1.004
$60.00
$4.00
Making Price
$480
First Cost
$64
% Margin
$380
Costing Sheet Style
Season
FW14 T01
FW14
Number
61 “CHAOS TOP�
# 20 Hour used to complete # Hand-tacking
Width or Size
Details
Leather
Collected leather scraps
$35.00
Trims
Details
Unit Price Quantity Total
Leather Bucket
Retail $780.00
Price
Costing Total
Materials
$6.00
$35.00
1
$6.00
Making Price
$540
First Cost
$41
% Margin
$240
Costing Sheet Style
Season
FW14 T02
FW14
Number
62 “APRON TOP�
# 10 Hour used to complete
Materials
Details
Cotton Curtain
-off white -cut on one piece of old curtain
Trims
Details
Retail $300.00
Width or Size 1.5 Metre
Price
Costing Total
$10.00
$10.00
Unit Price Quantity Total
Making Price
$240
First Cost
$10
% Margin
$60
Costing Sheet 63
Style
Season
FW14 S01
FW14
Number
“PAD SKIRT�
# 16 Hour used to complete
Width or Size
Price
Costing Total
Materials
Details
Leather
Sourced from Salvation Army
$35.00
Details
Unit Price Quantity Total
$35.00
Denim
Trims Leather straps buckles
Retail $640.00
$8.00
2$
16.00
Making Price
$340
First Cost
$51
% Margin
$300
Costing Sheet Style
Season
FW14 C01
FW14
Number
64
“PATCHED LEATHER COAT”
# 45 Hour used to complete
Materials
Details
Price
Costing Total
$120.00$
Leather/ Suede/ Fur
Trims
Width or Size
Details
Leather straps with metal hook
Retail $2080.00
120.00
Unit Price Quantity Total $8.00
2$
16.00
Making Price
$1260
First Cost
$136
% Margin
$820
EDISON WONG
BA(hons) FASHION DESIGN & TEXTILE 2013 LASALLE College of the Arts Singapore