Nina and Viktoria in Barcelona by Flamma Editorial (Infoaccia)

Publishing house:

Infoaccia Primera, S.L. C./Medes, 4-6, Lesseps Business Center, 08023 Barcelona Tel: +34 93 202 78 15 Fax: +34 93 213 46 27 Mail: infoaccia@infoaccia.info

Text: Traslation: Photography:

©Estela Sanz Fernández

Illustrations Design and Layout:

©Barbara Di Candia Collarino

©Sandra Pareja ©Jordi Montserrat Martínez, Page 56 © Krylon80 Dreamstime.com, © Achilles Dreamstime.com Details: ©Maria Rempel, ©David Dzhaparidze, ©Barbara Di Candia Collarino

Edited and printed in Spain, 2009

ISBN 978-84-937283-0-4 Legal deposit B-29273-209

All rights reserved; no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, Electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publishers.

Index:

Introduction ................................................................................ 9 Plaça Catalunya ....................................................................... 10 Las Ramblas .............................................................................. 11 Mercat de la Boqueria ............................................................12 MAP ..............................................................................................13 Pastisseria Escribà ................................................................... 14 Casa Bruno Cuadros .............................................................. 15 Gran Teatre del Liceu ............................................................. 16 Església del Pi ........................................................................... 17 Palau Güell ................................................................................ 18 Museu de Cera ......................................................................... 19 Plaça Sant Jaume .................................................................... 20 Barri Gòtic .................................................................................. 21 Catedral ...................................................................................... 22 Roman era ................................................................................. 23 Plaça Reial .................................................................................. 24 Museu Picasso ......................................................................... 25 Santa Maria del Mar ............................................................... 26 Basílica de la Mercè ................................................................ 27 Monument a Colom .............................................................. 28 Port Vell ....................................................................................... 29 Passeig Colom .......................................................................... 30 Moll de la Fusta ........................................................................ 31 Barceloneta ............................................................................... 32 Aquàrium ................................................................................... 33 The beach in Barcelona ........................................................ 34 Estació de França .................................................................... 35 Casa Calvet ................................................................................ 36 Antic Mercat del Born ........................................................... 37 MAP .............................................................................................. 38 Palau de la Música Catalana ............................................... 39 MACBA Museum of Contemporary Art ......................................... 40 CCCB Center of Contemporary Culture of Barcelona ...................... 41 El Quadrat d’Or ........................................................................ 42 Avinguda Diagonal Plan Cerdà ......................................... 43 Casa Terrades ........................................................................... 44 La Pedrera / Casa Milà ........................................................... 45 Casa Batlló ................................................................................. 46 Casa Thomas ............................................................................ 47 Casa Lleó Morera .................................................................... 48 Casa Amatller ........................................................................... 49 Fundació Antoni Tàpies ........................................................ 50 Museu Egipci ............................................................................ 51 Gaudí and modernismo ....................................................... 52 Barri de Gràcia .......................................................................... 53 MAP .............................................................................................. 54 Park Güell ................................................................................... 55 La Sagrada Família ................................................................. 56

Casa Vicens ................................................................................ 57 Hospital de Sant Pau .............................................................. 5 MAP .............................................................................................. 59 MAP .............................................................................................. 60 Arc de Triomf ............................................................................ 61 Parc de la Ciutadella .............................................................. 62 Estació del Nord ...................................................................... 63 Zoo de Barcelona .................................................................... 64 Castell dels Tres Dragons ..................................................... 65 Vila Olímpica ............................................................................. 66 Torre Mapfre / Hotel Arts ..................................................... 67 Torre Agbar ............................................................................... 68 Forum Placa Fotovoltáica .................................................... 69 Horta Guinardó ....................................................................... 70 Park of the labyrinth Horta .................................................. 71 Tibidabo ..................................................................................... 72 Torre de Collserola .................................................................. 73 Parc de L’Espanya Industrial ............................................... 74 Teatre Nacional de Catalunya ............................................ 75 Les Corts i Pedralbes .............................................................. 76 Camp Nou ................................................................................. 77 Sants Estació ............................................................................. 78 MAP .............................................................................................. 79 Montjuïc / Plaça Espanya ..................................................... 80 MNAC National Museum of Art of Catalonia .................................. 81 Anella Olímpica ........................................................................82 Castell de Montjuïc ................................................................ 83 Estadi Olímpic .......................................................................... 84 Palau Sant Jordi ....................................................................... 85 Plaça Sardana / Montjuïc ..................................................... 86 Fundació Joan Miró ............................................................... 87 Caixa Forum .............................................................................. 88 Poble Espanyol ........................................................................ 89 Sitges ........................................................................................... 90 Monestir de Montserrat ....................................................... 91 Celebration of the Mercè ..................................................... 92 Castellers .................................................................................... 93 Winter holidays ....................................................................... 94 The transport ........................................................................... 95 Shopping ................................................................................... 96 Night life ..................................................................................... 97 Gastronomy .............................................................................. 98 The catalan lenguaje ............................................................. 99

We’re here in Barcelona as tourists, just passing through. But the truth is we wouldn’t mind staying longer. Despite the little time we have, it’s been our goal to get to know every corner of the city and that’s why we’ve gotten so familiar with its streets, its monuments, its people, its customs,… I hope that you enjoy this trip as much as we have. Afterwards, we’re thinking of going to Madrid, Rome, London, and to wherever our curiosity takes us. Viktoria & Nina

CATALONIA PLACE 1929 These

We could check out all the stores on Pelai and near Portal del Angel!

OK, but first I’m going to take pictures of this square.

days, it is the most central square in Barcelona. It is surrounded by the major economic, commercial, and tourist bustle. Its surface covers 5 hectares. Before the city’s walls were demolished, this space was an esplanade used for business trade and it was from where the roads would leave heading to near towns. Cerdà had not considered it the city centre but it was later on that the Rovira plan made it that way. It was eventually inaugurated in 1929 for the Universal Expo. Its highlights: Josep Clarà’s sculpture la Diosa (the Godess); the monument to Francesc Macià de Josep Maria Subirachs and the large mosaic that covers the centre part of the square’s ground. All the children from Barcelona have gone at least once to this square to feed the pigeons.

This

is without a doubt the most symbolic walk in Barcelona, starting from Plaza Cataluña and ending at the Columbus monument. Locals usually call it Las Ramblas because it carries various names: Barcelona’s locals usually call it “Las Ramblas”to sum up the many names the walkway actually has: la Rambla de Canaletes, la Rambla dels Estudis, la Rambla de Sant Josep, la Rambla dels Caputxins, la Rambla de Santa Mònica and la Rambla del Mar, a newly created footbridge that connects the Moll de la Fusta to Maremagnum. The Canaletes drinking fountain, at the beginning of the walk, is the most mythical in the city. It is there that Fútbol Club Barcelona followers celebrate their team’s victories. Legend says that whoever drinks the water from this fountain will return to Barcelona. It is hard to imagine the Ramblas without the human statues that appear throughout the walk. Heading down south towards the sea, you will find animal stalls, then flower stands, and eventually, the portrait artists that are always ready to draw you with your best smile.

As you are walking down the Rambla, it’s whole landscape changes.

I’m definitely staying put here with the human statues that we just saw.

BOQUERIA MARKET Las Ramblas, 101 Existing

I heard that in this market there’s a stand that sells insects!

Nina, if you want insects, go out into the country!

documents show that in 1217, produce started to be sold in the current place of the market, which back then was located outside of the city walls. As a result of the disentitlement of churches and convents, the market kept on getting bigger in size. The current modernist structure is a result of many different steps in its construction. In 1853, the market became official. It is the biggest market in Spain and has won various international awards. The current vendors come from a long tradition of merchants: they are 3rd or 4th generation. People usually say that whatever you don’t find in the Boquería’s 300 stands, you won’t find in any other place.

ESCRIBÀ PASTRY Las Ramblas, 83 1906 “It’s

I think I’d eat just about everything. For all that we’ve walked, we deserve a treat!

not just pastries we make, but also the little thrills” is Escribà’s slogan, promoting its Catalan pastry shop. The business was founded in 1906 by Mateu Serra I Capell, a delivery man who decided to open his bakery on Gran Vía 546, where today his grandson, Antoni Escribà, still sells bread and a sort of chocolate egg called a mona. From an early age, Antoni dreamt of being a sculptor but economic difficulties lead him into the family business. But it was here where he could put his art into use, becoming the inventor of the chocolate sculpture (mona) that all godparents give to their godchildren on Easter Monday in Catalonia.

Las Ramblas, 82 The

original building was constructed at the beginning of the 19th Century. In 1883, Josep Vilaseca i Casanovas entirely reformed the building, giving it more artistic value. On the corner, he added the figure of a dragon that interestingly holds up a light post and an umbrella. That is why it is also called “the Dragon House” or “the Umbrella House”. One can appreciate the building’s different artistic influences: oriental reminiscences, pharaoh art, Japanese miniatures, … The reform was originally done in order to equip the premises with the bottom floor. Today, all there is a bank. It is one the most symbolic houses on Las Ramblas.

If the dragon isn’t interesting enough, the whole umbrella hanging from the lamp seems to me a bit surrealist.

The same as the facade of the Dalí Museum in Figueres, covered with bread and eggs on the tower.

LICEU THEATRE Las Ramblas, 51-59 1847 Architects: Miquel Garriga i Roca, Josep Oriol Mestres and Ignasi de Solà Morales.

The

This theatre gives out a mysterious feel. It’s very strange that it blew up twice in the past. Maybe there’s the Phantom of the Opera hiding in its dressing rooms and never-ending corridors.

theatre caught fire on two occasions, once in 1861 and again in 1994, after which it had to be rebuilt. The theatre has witnessed much of Spain’s history. In 1893, Santiago Salvador, an anarchist, placed a bomb in the orchestra, causing 20 deaths. In 1936, during the Civil War it was expropriated and nationalized. The theatre can seat an audience up to 2292 people, distributing itself into the orchestra and five floors. Until 1994 it was social property. At the moment, in order to face restoration costs, important state institutions now own it. One of its most impressive spots is the so-called Saló dels Miralls.

Plaça del Pi, 7 1320 - 1391 The

parish Santa Maria del Pi, found in the Barrio Gótico, was built throughout the 14th century. Its Gothic style guarantees that it only has one nave and very little ornamentation. Architecturally, what most stands out is the rose window (10m diameter) that presides over the main entrance, which is one of the biggest in Europe. But one must know that it is not the original rose window. When the church was burned in 1935, it was completely destroyed. The copy is faithful to the original. The bell tower, built by the architect Bartomeu Mas, is another one of the church’s extraordinary elements, with its 54m altitude and six bells. The square where the church is located is very animated and filled with artists that show their work.

To me, it looks like a place with lots of charm, we’ll see if the church itself offers the same welcoming feel.

It’s not one of the biggest churches in Barcelona, but surely one of the most loved.

Carrer Nou de la Rambla, 3-5 Inaugurated in 1890 Architect: Antoni Gaudí

Palau

I love the chimneys of this palace.

It’s as if you were walking through a forest rather than on a flat roof.

Güell, like the park with the same name, was commissioned to Gaudí by the Barcelona count Eusebi Güell. It was one of the first works designed by the father of Catalan modernism. Inaugurate in 189, it was the private residence of the Güell family until it was confiscated in 1936. The building was seen as revolutionary for its traditional construction techniques and its use of materials of extraordinary quality, all of which have helped it remain in the same excellent state until today. In 1984, UNESCO declared Palau Güell a Heritage Site. The building, found in Raval, is now property of the city and visits are allowed.

WAX MUSEUM Passatge Banca, 7 The Wax Museum The

museum is located in a central neo-Renaissance building from the 19th Century, which perfectly captures the museum’s somewhat ghostly feeling. Before, there was the head office for the Bank of Barcelona until the museum opened its doors to the public in 1973. In fact, the bank’s original strong room still survives. Among many other famous people, inside we can find Dalí, princess Diana of Wales at the hand of Mother Teresa, Superman, Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. If after the visit, you feel like getting something to drink, there are two museum cafés to choose from: “El bosc de les fades” (The Fairy Forest) and its marvellous fantasy world or the other option, which is “El passatge del temps”.

I would love to be in a picture with Richard Gere. … well, Julia Roberts is quite close by.

SANT JAUME SQUARE Sant

Considering this plaza’s history, nowadays it’s quite calm. Not really, this is where some of the official cars arrive.

Jaume Square, as we well know it today, dates back to the 19th Century, when the City Hall’s facade was constructed and the Sant Jaume church was demolished. Nevertheless, its origins go back to the Roman period. The square contains the two most powerful political institutions in Catalonia. On one side, we have the Palace of the Generalitat of Catalunya, of great architectonic value, which stands out for the Renaissance façade done by Pere Blay. You can only visit inside on set days or with a prior reservation. In front, you will find Barcelona’s City Hall. This square has witnessed very important historical events: the proclamation of the Catalan State (1931), the return of Josep Taradelles (1977), protests,… Until recently, here Barça fans would celebrate all the team’s victories.

GOTHIC DISTRICT It

is one of the four neighbourhoods belonging to the Ciutat Vella district. Historically speaking, it is the most significant neighbourhood since it is where Medieval Barcelona took place, built upon Roman remains. The neighbourhood used to be completely walled. Some pieces of the wall are still conserved though most of it has been destroyed. Walking through carrer del Bisbe and el carrer de los Condes de Barcelona goes without saying. It is where you will find the Palau Reial, which is home to Saló del Tinell, a magnificent Gothic hall from the 14th century. Within the Gothic quarter, there is also the old Jewish quarter, el Call, which only has a few streets left. Until a few years ago, it was a bit of an unsafe neighbourhood. Today you can walk around feeling safe but always keeping an eye on your belongings.

Nina, back then and almost until the 19th Century, Barcelona was just these streets of Ciutat Vella.

How it’s grown in just two centuries!

THE CATHEDRAL Plaça de la Seu s/n The

It’s taken more than three years to fix the facade.

If it goes at the same speed as the Sagrada Familia, it won’t be finished for the 21st century.

Cathedral, seat of the archbishop of Barcelona, was built over the Roman cathedral between the 13th and 15th century. The ancient San Severo Cathdedral (2nd century) was sure to be located quite closet to the current one. The cathedral’s Gothic style stands out despite the fact that it conserves the same axis as the Roman one. One must note the choir that consists of an impressive ashlar, and the cloister, where thirteen white geese live. According to legend, Santa Eulalia who shepered geese in Sarrià and to whom the Cathedral is dedicated to, was thirteen years old when she was executed by the romans for proclaiming her Christian faith. The Cathedral has five doors. The main door that we know today was different before. It was the San Ivo entrance. The front façade is now under construction. Measuring 90 m long and 40 m wide, the Cathedral has three naves with the same height, with the central one being double the width of the lateral ones. During Christmas time, around the 13th of December, a big nativity fair is celebrate in the Plaza de la Catedral. It is called la Fira de Santa Llúcia.

Plaça del Rei Plaça Vila de Madrid At

the end of the Roman invasion in 19 AC, the city adopted the name Barcino. The Roman Barcelona was a walled complex of approximately 12 hectares. IT was able to fit 50,000 inhabitants in the 2nd Century. The Roman Forum used to be very close to where Plaza Sant Jaume now is. It was a large temple, of which only four pillars remain inside the building belonging to the Centro Excursionista de Cataluña (Calle Paradís). There are also remains of a Roman necropolis in the Plaza de la Villa de Madrid. In the Plaza del Rey, you’ll find the main building of the History Museum of Barcelona, where you can see archaeological remains that date from the 1st century BC all the way until the 7th century and that are located in the square’s subsoil.

I had no idea that Barcelona conserved so many roman remains.

It’s a city that’s usually known for other things…

Architect: Francesc Daniel Molina i Casamajó This is one of the most beautiful,

I’d like to go to Jamboree to listen to some jazz.

I’d prefer going to Sidecar, where they do live concerts. Since they’re both in Plaza Real, if you want, we can meet when both shows are done.

elegant and harmonious architectural compounds that you’ll find in the Ciutat Vella, with it being the only plaza with porticos in the city. Its construction began in 1850, making use of the area where an old capuchin convent used to be. Gaudí also lent a hand to the square: he designed the lampposts as if they were trees. At the end of the 19th century, the fountain of the Three Graces was placed in the middle of the square. Located by the Ramblas, during the 18th and 19th century, it was a meeting place for the bourgeoisie in Barcelona. At the end of the 20th century, it was not a recommended place due to the marginal classes. However, nowadays, it is an enjoyable place to dine or to have a drink. The square’s perimeter is made of palm trees and, for that reason, it is also known as the Palm Tree Square in Barcelona.

PICASSO MUSEUM Carrer Montcada, 15 - 23 Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) was

a painter from Málaga, one of the most representative Cubist painters. He had a strong connection with Barcelona, the city where he sets his famous painting Las señoritas de Avignon. In 1963, out of his own willingness, this museum opened to the public. Along with his museum in Málaga and his other in Antibes, this is one of Picasso’s most important museums. It is home to more than 3800 of his pieces, within which we can contemplate his complete series of Las Meninas. It takes up five residences on Montcada Street, which is a marvellous display of civil Catalan Gothic architecture. The museum takes in more than a million visitors a year.

I was so excited to see the complete series of Picasso’s Las Meninas.

It was truly able to shed new light on Velázquez’s mythical painting.

Plaça de Santa Maria, 1 1329 - 1382 The

Nina, did you know that Santa María del Mar inspired the author Ildefonso Falcones to write his novel La Catedral del Mar (Cathedral of the Sea)?

Yes, I did. The book tells you that the men carried the stones on their shoulders all the way from Montjuïc.

Gothic church Santa María del Mar was built in the 14th century, although it is made reference to in 10th Century documents. It was people with little resources, parishioners from the port and from Barceloneta that financed the construction of the church. It is believed that it was a reaction to the construction of the Cathedral, which then was often associated with the monarchy, nobility and the city’s high clergy. Santa Maria del Mar was designed by Berenguer de Montagut and Ramón Despuig, creating one of the most beautiful Gothic Catalan works. Architecturally, it stands out for its austerity, beauty and charm. Nakedness and simplicity predominate. The height of the centre nave, held up by unreachable pillars, is eyeastounding. During the Civil War, the church was victim to a large fire and some of it had to be rebuilt.

Plaça de la Mercè 1775 Architect : Josep Mas i Dordal The

square of la Mercè, in Barcelona’s Gothic quarter, has given place to the Basilica de la Mercè since its construction (between 1765 and 1775) Josep Mas i Dordal was the architect and the baroque-style church is dedicated to the city’s patron saint, the Virgin of la Merced. Legend has it that the Virgen de la Merced freed the city from a locust plague and, out of gratitude, City Council named her patron saint. This baroque church that we know today was built over another temple constructed by the Order of the Mercedarios (those followers of the Virgen de la Merced) in 1267.

Did you know that the city’s sports teams are going to sing her a hymn of gratitude when they win a championship?

Well, surely, the Mercè is very important to Barcelona!

COLON MONUMENT Plaça Portal de la Pau

This

If I’m not wrong, it’s interesting that Columbus is pointing to the sea when America is on the other side.

Perhaps he’s showing the route to go to America, which is by sea.

piece was designed by Gaietà Buigas i Monravà in 1886 for the 1888 Universal Expo. The monument is made up of an iron pedestal in the shape of an ionic pillar (51.20m high) and of a 7m sculpture of the explorer made by Rafael Ataché. Tourists can reach the feet of the statue by elevator, giving marvellous views. Columbus is pointing towards the sea, something that is open to different debates. Originally, the monument was supposed to be built with private funds. Since these funds were not enough, City Hall managed the costs.

OLD PORT From 1477 At

the end of the 15th century, the first artificial port quay in Barcelona was built. It grew bigger during the 18th century, though it was not until the end of the following century when the true port construction was undertaken. At present, the city port is structured into three areas: the commercial port, the logistical port and Port Vell (the old port), the latter playing more a part of everyday life in Barcelona. Nowadays, it is residence to a wide number of institutions and places of leisure such as the Barcelona Swimming Club, the Aquarium, the IMAX 3D cinema, the Nautical Club, and also the famous cable-car constructed for the 1929 Expo, which takes you from the Montjuïc to the port. Port Vell is also a focal point for local dining, with traditional restaurants such as El Merendero de la Mari or el Syrah.

Look at all the beautiful sailboats!

I wouldn’t mind at all taking a trip around the world in one of them.

In

I love Barcelona because it’s a city where you can walk along the sea and where the sea also forms part of its identity. I totally agree with you on this one.

1878, the Consistory of the Ciudad Condal (Barcelona’s old name) decided to demolish the part of the mural that bordered the sea. In its place, Paseo Colón was developed, which goes from the discoverer’s statue to the central Post (Goda y Torray, 1914) on Vía Laietana. It makes for a very nice walk where one can spot out important buildings. For example. The Capitanía General, whose cloister is entirely made of marble. It is assumed that Miguel de Cervantes lived on #2 of the Paseo during his stay in Barcelona. The building dates back to the 18th century though it was reformed in the 20th century and only the 3rd and 4th floor Renaissance windows remain. Upon arriving to the end of the Paseo, you can see the Roy Lichtenstein’s Barcelona Head sculpture.

WOOD WHARF From 1980 This is the seaside part of Paseo

Colón. This

dock, where the boats are tied, is made of wood (Catalan: fusta). It used to be a commercial dock and is now a pedestrian and leisure zone. It is a place for a multitude of boats, public, cultural, and festive events. Moll de la Fusta is a nice place to enjoy the sea breeze. On the inner part of the dock, filled with palm trees and benches, you can see a giant fibre-glass sculpture, “The Prawn”, work of Javier Mariscal, the creator of the mascot for Barcelona’s Olympic Games.

Look here! Kids, and some not so little, come here to feed the fish.

I hope that they aren’t the same fish that they eventually serve at the Olympic Port…

This

Nina, how about some fried fish tapas?

Why of course. And a beer too.

is a neighbourhood built throughout the 18th century. For a long time, it was a neighbourhood for fishermen and this character is still felt within its streets and its people. The hotel Vela, designed by Ricardo Bofi ll, at the end of the Barceloneta beach, is currently under construction and it is sure to be one of the most luxurious hotels in the city. The neighbourhood had a deeply-rooted gypsy community. Here is where the flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya, was born; there is a fountain dedicated to her near Sant Carles Street. It is one of the best places in the city to try fresh fish. Along Paseo Juan de Borbón, you’ll find the Museo de Historia de Cataluña, located in the old General Warehouses for Commerce.

Moll d’Espanya (Port Vell) Barcelona’s

aquarium opened its doors in 1995. Since then, it has been visited by more than 14 million people. It lets visitors get to know the sea better without getting wet or being in danger. It is the world’s most important aquarium specialized in the Mediterranean, which has 14 aquariums dedicated to it. There are also 7 tropical aquariums. Certified scuba divers who are brave can swim with sharks. The rest of us have to be happy with crossing the immense metraquilate tunnel that is 80 metres long, where it seems that we are swimming between sharks. There is no doubt that these sharks are the true stars of the Aquarium, though we can also observe close up rays, moonfish, sea-horses, funny penguins, piranhas, corals… up to a total of 11, 000 samples of 450 different species.

I would love to be able to dive into the water and swim along the fish.

I’d be mad to put even my foot in!

Within

Having such spaces along the sea in a city is marvellous.

I even think that people from Barcelona take what they have for granted!

the city itself, there are many beaches: Playa de la Barceloneta (the most known), Playa del Bogatell, Playa de la Nueva Icaria and Playa de la Mar Bella. The Forum has an area equipped for washrooms. The washroom space has been renovated a short time ago. Before, these areas were left to the hands of God. Even though the beaches are equipped, there are very few Barcelona locals that swim in its water because they prefer to leave the city. What they do is stroll along the boardwalk, have something to drink at one of the many terraces, sunbathe, do sport, … If you do go to the beach in Barcelona, never leave your belongings unattended or else, they will quickly disappear.

Avda. Marquès de l’Argentera, 6 1929 Architects: Pedro de Muguruza and Raimon Duran i Reynalds This

train station was constructed for the Universal Exposition. At that time, via 12 was being reserved for the trains that brought over very important people, who were received in the impressive Room of Mirrors. It is seated upon the original arrival point of the Barcelona – Mataró line, the first train line built by the state It is a modernist construction even with its typical structure from classic architecture. Aroung 2500 tons of iron and steal were used during construction. For some years, the station was stalled and had other uses: congresses, fairs, … Today it is used as a train station although it has lost a considerable amount of customers due to the newer Barcelona Sants station.

Why was it named Estació de França?

I think because it was the station meant for all the train arrivals coming from France.

ID: 7610971

Even though it’s surely a modernist house, it’s hard to say it’s from Gaudí.

It is really different from his other works we’ve seen throughout the city.

Carrer Casp, 48 1900 Architect: Antoni Gaudí It was commissioned by a textile manufacturer that wanted to set up his Business on the bottom floor and residences on the higher floors (his would be on the first floor and the most luxurious) Many of those who have studied Gaudí consider it to be the architect’s most conservative work. He chose a baroque style that suited the elegant neighbourhood it was in and then completed it with a façade made of stone from Montjuïc and with wrought-iron balconies. The first floor’s rostrum stands out, as it is decorated with the owner’s surname, an olive branch, the peace symbol, and the Cyprus as a symbol for hospitality. Gaudí also designed the house’s furniture. Most of it can now be seen in Gaudí’s residence in Park Güell.

OLD BORN MARKET Carrer Comercial, 2 1873 - 1876 Architect: Josep Fontseré i Mestre This

is one of the most important examples of iron architecture, a sub trend of Modernism that was vital in Catalonia. Since its construction in 1878 until the seventies, it was the city’s central market. Following a brief restoration in the eighties, it turned into an exhibition centre. In February 2002, during construction of what was to be Barcelona’s Provincial Library, ruins of the medieval city appeared. The site has an excavated surface of 8,000 m2 and the following remains: 62 houses with 23 wells, 11 workshops with 4 ovens, 20 stores and 360 metres of streets. Because of these discoveries, they did not follow with the library and instead, proposed that the structure house a Cultural Centre that,, according to latest press releases, won’t be finished until 2012. Surrounding this marketplace, there are an enormous amount of restaurants and places for leisure.

After talking so much about the market, I’m getting hungry. Now that you mention it, me too. Let’s go get something!

PALACE OF CATALAN MUSIC Carrer de San Pere Més Alt, 11 1908 Architect: Lluís Domènech i Montaner The Palau de la Música Catalana of Barcelona is surely the best example of Modernist architecture in Barcelona. The building is the center for the Orfeó Català, founded in 1891 by Lluís Millet and Amadeo Vives. The association bought off the cloister of the San Francisco convent in order to build their cultural centre there. The auditorium is on the first floor and two astounding staircases bring you there. One of the most impressive decorative elements is the immense skylight that presides over the concert hall. This was done by Antoni Rigalt i Blanch. Richard Strauss, Daniel Barenboim, Ígor Stravinski, Pau Casals, Frederic Mompou have all performed here. There has also been the premieres of works by Enrique Granados, Joaquín Turina, Manuel de Falla,… The concert hall seats 2049 people.

Nina, why don’t we check to see if there are any concert tickets available?

Sounds like a great idea, but only if it’s something modern.

Plaça dels Àngels, 1 1995 Architect: Richard Meier It

Is the contemporary art inside or outside of the museum? With all the skaters here, it seems like a big show. You can tell it’s one of the cult places for all the skateboard lovers.

aims to build up a critical memory of art from the second half of the 20th Century through various artistic experiences, the classic exhibition being only one of them. The original idea to create such a museum in Barcelona came from Alexandre Cirici-Pellicer, an idea that was later reconsidered by the local government. The building follows the lines of rationalist architecture, with clear echoes of Le Corbusier’s work The entire space is part of a dialogue between straight lines and curves and between the interior and the exterior, which accesses the interior with its enormous façade glazier. The permanent collection contains works from various disciplines: photography, cinema, video, audible art, text, plastic arts…

Carrer Montalegre, 5 1994 It

is located inside the former Charity House of Barcelona, a building constructed in 1749 and that was a benefit centre for the city between 1802 and 1956. It was alterated by the architects Helio Piñón y Albert Viaplana. It is not only an exhibition place but it also a place that strives to support the creations by new artists. The centre’s installments surround a patio, an old Patio that belonged to the women of the orphanage. One of the inside facades is completely made of glass and the upper part is inclined upwards with the shape of a corbel. The CCCB annually hosts some of the city’s most important festivals (literature, cinema, music, dance…)

Nina, take a look at the façade up there, it reflects the lower part of Barcelona.

Yeah, it’s a precious view. You can even see the sea!

1860 - 1914 Barcelona’s

Nina, I think this must be the only zone in the world with so many modernist buildings per squared metre.

Yeah, but is it necessary that we see everything?

modernist expansion (known as the Eixample) is divided into the left side and the right: l’Esquerra de l’Eixample and la Dreta de l’Eixample. The so-called Quadrat D’Or (Golden Square) corresponds to the right Eixample; this is more concretly the area located between Rambla Cataluña and paseo San Juan, and between calle Ausiàs Marc and calle Córcega. This denomination comes from the historian Albert García Espuche. At the end of the 19th Century and the beginning of the 20th century, the middle class moved out of the old centre and into the central area of the Eixample. In this extension, you’ll find the most important modernist buildings in Barcelona. The architects did their best to make each façade more impressive than the last. The buildings were designed so that the upper class could live on the first floor (in reality, the second counting from below because the first is the main floor or the mezzanine). That is why the first floor always has the prettiest balconies, the highest roofs, and more decoration in general.

DIAGONAL AVENUE THE CERDA PLAN Ildefons Cerdà i Sunyer 1859 The

Cerdà plan devised two roads to break the symmetry of the new neighbourhoods: la avenida Meridiana and la avenida Diagonal. This entailed the urbanization of all of Barcelona’s Eixample (extension), which is made of squared blocks that measure 133.3 m on each side. Cerdà wanted a city made for people and was very worried about not jsut the physical but also the mental health of those going to inhabit these neighbourhoods. The Diagonal was at first an enjoyable walk for the upper classes but is now one of the streets with the most traffic in the city. During Franco’s dictatorship, Diagonal was called the Avenida del Generalísimo Franco. Following Diagonal’s route, we can start from the highest point of the street, Zona Universitaria and its faculties, and arrive to the sea around where the Forum is. The Diagonal crosses through the city from one point to another.

Viktoria, we could bike ride at the highest point of Diagonal and cross the whole city following this huge urban artery.

Sounds to me like a cool idea. That way we can see Barcelona’s different neighbourhoods.

Avda. Diagonal, 420 1905 Architect: Josep Puig i Cadafalch

This

Do you see the attic at the highest point of one of the towers? I’d love to live there.

For sure, it has already been a refuge for painters and writes. That place can inspire anyone!

building (a result of bringing together three buildings) takes up a whole triangular block in Eixample. Puig i Cadafalch wanted to make a neighbourhood dwelling, which the building serves as today, making it only visible to tourists from the outside. The modernist artists usually transported themselves in time and in space. This being the case, Cadafalch created a building with a medieval aspect and of neo-Gothic influence. It carries us over to the Nordic and Central European landscapes, and also to children stories. It is made of bare brick, but also with marvellous stone, ceramic and wrought-iron sculptures. In one of the decorative panels dedicated to Saint George, it reads “Patron Saint of Catalonia, give us back our liberty”.

Passeig de Gràcia, 92 1910 Architect: Antoni Gaudí This

house is named ofter its owner, Pere Milà i Camps, though it’s also known as La Pedrera. It was designed by Gaudi to serve as a house in the neighbourhood. The architect was in charge of the whole project, seeing to the last detail. The most distinguished details are on the flat roof’s chimneys, the wrought iron of the balconies and the ceilings that represent the sea’s waves. At present, the first floor, the top floor and the terraces are open to the public. The whole building is the property of an important Catalan financial entity. The rest of the floors are offices or privately-owned homes. In the original Project, Gaudí considered placing a 4.5m statue of Mare de Déu del Roser on top of the building. The owner opposed and thus, this additional work was never completed. With a height of 20 metres, the building sits upon a foundation of barely half a metre, that which is a heroic deed in itself. Even so, it gave place to the first underground parking site in the city of Barcelona. It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984..

In Catalan, the meaning of La Pedrera is quarry, the name of the material used. Some of the neighbours gave it this nickname for not fitting in with the rest of the elegant buildings in the area.

Well... that was just their opinion, I think it’s precious.

Passeig de Gràcia, 43 1907 - Architect: Antoni Gaudí The Batlló house owes its name

Nina, did you know that Gaudí used recycled glass to make the facade? He himself, from below, made sure that the workers knew where to put each piece of glass.

Why he was one of the first environmentalists!

to the head of the textile industry named Josep Battló, who in 1904 hired Gaudí to take on the building’s reform. He proposed a complete reform, in which the building would acquire it’s unique features that make it so well-known today. Casa Battló is proof that Gaudí was a genuine artist. Not only did he design the façade like many of his contemporaries did, but he also designed the interior space and the furniture as well. The top part of the building may represent the shoulder of a chameleon, the animal fetish of this Catalan architect. However, they also say that the roof’s design resembles the arched shoulder of a dragon, since it is already covered with ceramic tiles that look like scales. On the other hand, it is also looks as though the balconies and the pillars of the facade were made of bones and skulls, a theme that is also present in the interior design of the staircase. The facade was made with sandstone from Montjuïc. On the roof, one can find the typical four-armed Gaudí cross. Mr. Batlló lived with his family in the first two floors of the building and rented out the apartments on the remaining floors.

1898 Carrer Mallorca, 293 Architect : Lluís Domènech i Montaner The building was to serve as the studio and residence of the sketch artist J. Thomas. The facade has clear neo-Gothic reminiscences. The architect used a large stain-glass window to closet he bottom floor. In fact, Casa Thomas was one the first buildings to use large stain0glass windows to cover the façade. At one point, it only had the lower floor and one other. In 1912, an expansion was undergone by Francesc Guàrdia i Vial, son-in-law to Domènech i Montaner. Three floors were added on and the original turrets were re-located to the upper level. Later on in 1979, the Estudi PER architects renovated the lower floors for the B.D. Ediciones de Diseño society. Their renovation rewarded them with the FAD prize and the Premio Nacional de Restauración.

In Barcelona, anyone who had money was able to have their house built by a modernist architect.

I think that I would have done the same.

Passeig de Gràcia, 35 1906 Architect : Lluís Domènech i Montaner Alongside Casa Batlló and Casa

I choose this house over the others in the Manzana de la Discordia. It’s truly precious. Well, I would have to think about that one a little more.

Amatller, this house forms part of what is known as the Manzana de la Discordia (The Block of Discord), since it is impossible to say who created the block, architectonically speaking. Domènech i Montaner’s building is a result of the reformation of the earlier building from 1864. It is considered a flowery building given it is a personal vision of Late Gothic and Renaissance forms. As often it often occurs with Modernist homes, various craftsmen participated in the project. The sculptures of Eusebi Arnau stand out most. However, when they renovated the ground floor, many sculptures were destroyed and their heads randomly ended up in the Dalí Museum in Figueres. The current shrine is not the original but an exact replica made by Óscar Tusquets and Carles Bassó in 1988. At present, it is private property not open to the public.

Passeig de Gràcia, 41 1900 Architect: Josep Puig i Cadafalch The

original mansion was from 1875 and had been designed by the architect Antoni Robert. It was Antonio Amatller, a master chocolatier, who hired Puig I Cadafalch to see to its reform. Puig i Cadalfalch was inspired by the Gothic architecture of the Netherlands and of his own region of Catalonia. One can also notice the influence of medieval architecture on the main balcony. What most stands out at first glance is the pyramid top of the façade, in such a way that the highest floor is a big attic. Since 1941, the main floor, which was originally the owner’s residence, houses the Amatller Institute of Hispanic Art, intended for the compilation of photographs taken of Spanish plastic art. It is in front of the main door of Casa Amatller that the European Modernism Walk begins at kilometre 0. In the year 1976, Casa Amatller was named a National Monument.

To me, this facade cut out in such a way reminds me of a chocolate bar.

Perhaps the architect did this on purpose, with the owner being an industrialist in chocolate.

Carrer Aragó, 225 1984

This

Why must the facade’s sculpture be called “Cloud and Chair”?

I understand the part about the cloud, but about the chair, I have no clue.

foundation was created by Antoni Tàpies himself in 1990 with the purpose of promoting the study and knowledge of modern contemporary art. It is hard for a visitor not to notice the building’s façade. The foundation is located in a exposed brick building that Domènech i Montaner designed for the editorial Montaner i Simon. On the façade, there is also the work of Tàpies titled Núvol i cadira (Cloud and Chair), an impressive array of iron. The foundation features 3000 of Tàpies’s works, among them: pictorial and sculptural works, drawings, lithographs and sketches.

EGYPTIAN MUSEUM Carrer Valencia, 284 The

Clos Archaeological foundation Clos was born in 1993 with the personal initiative of Jordi Clos. It is a private institute dedicated to the promotion of archaeological science and to the study of ancient Egyptian art. The museum (which is only one part of the foundation’s work) shows a complete and precise vision of the pharaonic civilization, helping better understand aspects relating to the mummification and the cult to the dead. The permanent collection contains 1000 original pieces that live up to this vision. The visitor can see the original sarcophagus of a mummy, original too. They also offer courses, seminars and expeditions. The foundation has an archaeological campus where students can perform their research and make use of a valuable library.

It’s amazing how after so many years mummies can still be conserved like this.

It scares me to look at them a lot. They better not wink at me.

Modernism

Walking through Barcelona is like walking through a Modernism encyclopedia.

That’s not a bad comparison, Viktoria!

is an artistic movement that began at the end of the 19th Century and that principally tends to aesthetics and escapism. In Catalonia and especially in Barcelona, the modernist movement was so developed that Catalan modernism came to be considered a subgenre of modernism. Without a doubt, the most important modernist architect is Antoni Gaudí (1852-1926). The majority of his work was done in Barcelona. One of the modernist works that we still haven’t mentioned is the Café Els Quatre Gats, located on 3 Montsió street and that is the work of the architect Puig i Cadafalch. There many of the most famous gatherings in Barcelona took place at the beginning of the 20th century. It also housed the Pablo Picasso’s first exhibit.

THE GRACIA DISTRICT Gracia

was originally its own town until it was taken over by Barcelona in 1897. It is the smallest district in Barcelona, but it is the second biggest in demographic density. The neighbourhood’s “fiesta mayor” takes place mid-august and is one of the city’s liveliest and most acclaimed. Its streets are decorated for the occasion and in every corner, you’ll find music and colour. To get to know the neighbourhood, the best is to get lost in its streets and stop for a drink in any one of its numerous squares (Plaça del Sol, Plaça de Diamant, Plaça Rius i Taulet, Plaça de la Revolució, Plaça de la Virreina). Meanwhile, one can people watch: everyone from the elderly to the young hippies and artists,… It’s a neighbourhood full of life where freedom and tolerance reign on every corner.

This is without a doubt my favourite neighbourhood in Barcelona.

With it being so hippy, I’m not at all surprised.

Carrer d’Olot s/n 1914 Architect: Antoni Gaudí Park

Güell is one of the most characteristic places of modernist Barcelona. Designed by Gaudí, the park is named after count Güell, who hired the Catalan architect to remodel the Montaña Pelada. It was constructed between 1900 and 1914 at the height of Barcelona’s Carmel Mountain. The park was originally conceived as a villa for rich people. It was supposed to enclose various houses, but in the end, only two were built. One of them was Gaudí’s home for some time, which is now a museum. A local market for the villa was supposed to be located where the hall of the steep columns is located. Park Güell shows off incredible stone structures and other masterpieces of Gaudí, as well as the best display of his fetish: la Font del Drac (the Dragon Fountain) Inside the artificial caves, musicians that please passer-bys with their melodies are easy to come across, given that it is here especially where sound meets great beauty and height.

Gaudí spelled Park Güell with a ‘k’ because he was inspired by the English villa-gardens.

So I guess he also took liberties with the spelling…

Carrer de Mallorca, 401 1883 - present Architect: Antoni Gaudí The

They say there are 400 steps. I’ll take the elevator.

Nina, what do you think about going in and climbing to the top?

temple is only being built with donation funds. Gaudí dedicated 40 years of his life to this work. Each tower is dedicated to one of the 12 apostles and the centre on to Jesus. At the entrance, Christ’s nudity caused a lot of controversy with the Catholic Church. On the Passion Façade at the back entrance, there is a square with 16 numbers. Each row of four numbers, in any direction, always add up to 33, Christ’s age at death. It is possible to make 310 different combinations. It is believed that its construction could finish in the year 2026, coinciding with the date of the hundredth anniversary of Gaudí’s death. At present, it is the only cathedral in Europe that continues being built. Gaudí was run over by a tram at the age of 74. His corpse is buried in the temple’s crypt.

Carrer Carolines, 24 1888 Architect: Antoni Gaudí

Following

his undergraduate degree, this was Gaudí’s first important project. Gaudí was hired to make the house by Manuel Vicens i Montaner, who wanted it as a summer residence (at the time it was built, Gracia was still an independent village where the bourgeoisie used to spend their summers). Its architectural language shows that it is a very simple construction. Gaudí made a style-collage: it was a time of orientalist influence, especially Mudejar, although elements of Persian and Byzantine art were also appreciated. It is a work in which you can spot some ideas that Gaudí would use in the future. In 2005, UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site. At present, it is private property and is not open to the public.

If only I could build a little palace like this to spend my summers…

We wouldn’t have to get up at 7am to take advantage of vacation days!

Carrer Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167 1930 Architect : Lluís Domènech i Montaner

The

I never knew of a hospital with so much history and so rich in architecture until now.

Compared to other hospitals, it really gives off vitality and positive energy at the same time as peace and serenity.

hospital that we today know as the Hospital de Sant Pau was founded in 1401. The current building, being one of the best expressions of Catalan modernism, was planned at the beginning of the 20th century by the architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner. The sponsor that financed the new building’s construction was the banker Pau Gil. It was inaugurated in 1930, after 18 years of construction. The hospital was from then on named after its donor. The hospital covers nine blocks of Barcelona’s Eixample –some 90,000 m2. The main building is the most important and is made up of 27 pavilions. It is dedicated to the administration and the public can enter the inside patio where one can find many sculptures by Gargallo. In 1997, UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site.

Passeig Lluís Companys 1888 Architect : Josep Vilaseca i Casanovas

Its

was designed to be the main entrance into the Universal Expo that Barcelona hosted in 1888. With brick as the main material, the architect wanted to leave a Mudejar feel. If you compare it to other triumph arches that have a strong military character, its civil character predominates with its carved references to industry, agriculture, commerce, science and art. On the main façade, Josep Reynés sculpted “Barcelona rep les nacions” (Barcelona welcomes nations). It has a maximum height of 30m. At its foot, begins the paseo Lluís Companys, the original place for the Expo.

What triumph does this arch commemorate?

The truth is none at all, since it wasn’t built for that purpose.

CIUTADELLA PARK Pg. Picasso, Pg. Pujades 1888 Ciutadella

Why don’t we go on one of those paddle-boats in the lake?

Sure, but I hope I won’t fall in.

Park covers what was once the outdoor space used for the 1888 World Expo, of which some buildings still remain. Originally, the park’s space was a gigantic military complex constructed in 1715 by Philip V to guard from the Bourbon’s opposition. It was demolished between 1869 and 1888. Inside the park there is the current Parliament of Catalonia, located in the ancient arsenal. It is a good place for strolling, one preferred by the locals. One of the highlighted spaces of the park is the Cascada Monumental (Massive Waterfall) and the lake.

Carrer de Alí Bei, 80 1864 Architect : Pere Andrés i Puigdollers

This

station displays a central nave that has a metallic and arched roof, which was very typical for its time. One of its facades, entirely made of glass, was done by Demetri Ribes in a later expansion (1912) and has its roots in the local modern tradition. At present, it no longer works for trains but is the city’s bus station. It also has a sports centre and a municipal police station. The adjacent plots of land were property of RENFE and were renovated by Enric Tous and Josep Mª Fargas and were converted into a park in 1991. A highlight of this space is a pyramid with ceramic tile walls, which imitates the back of a dragon.

All buses going to the rest of Spain and Europe leave from here. I’d take my guitar, my backpack and I’d take off!

But you don’t even play the guitar!

THE BARCELONA ZOO Parc de la Ciutadella Barcelona’s

You know what Viktoria, I would like to see the “Saló de la Dama del Paraigües”

That’s where they do weddings.

Zoo, opened in 1892, sits in on of the grounds left available after the 1888 Universal Exposition. The first animals to live there belonged to Lluís Martí i Codolar, who donated them to the City Hall. As years went by, the zoo’s main objective has been the improvement of the everyday living conditions of the animals residing there. At present, the Zoo has a size of 13 hectares where 7500 animals of 400 different species live. Its grounds are considered one of the best in Europe. For many years (1966-2003), the Zoo’s albino gorilla, Floquet de Neu (Snowflake), the only one known in the world, turned into a city emblem.

CASTLE OF THE THREE DRAGONS Parc de la Ciutadella Architect : Lluís Domènech i Montaner A museum with all so many dissected animals is almost the same as a hunting gallery and seems hardly something of our times.

The initial intention was for this

building to be a café-restaurant for the 1888 Universal Expo. Domènech i Montaner was in charge of the project, which was eventually finished by Josep Forteza. The architect was inspired by the medieval times and designed a building made of red brick with its perimeter surrounded by ceramic shields. Its floor is almost completely squared and in each one of its vertexes, you’ll see a tower, making the visitor really think of a castle. Nowadays, the Castell dels Tres Dragons houses the Natural Science Museum of Barcelona, which contains mostly dissected animals and an important audio library.

But this is the only way you can see the animals so close up.

1992 Martorell, Bohigas, MacKay and Puigdomènech

This

We can come back here at night. There’s definitely lots of partying!

I was told that people from Barcelona leave this place to tourists, so I’d prefer to check out other places.

is a neighbourhood in the Santa Martí district, where the residence for the Olympic athletes was constructed in 1992. It is facing the sea and the Olympic Port, which was there centre for torch relays and that currently provides 700 moors for sports boats. It is a good place for visiting at night time at the weekend. It thrives with restaurants, bar and tourist-packed dance clubs Plaza de los Campeones commemorates the 257 athletes that won an Olympic medal and one can even see here the handprints of many of the triumphed winners.

Carrer Marina, 19 - 21 1992 Íñigo Ortiz, Enrique de León (Torre MAPFRE) and Grupo SOM (Hotel Arts)

The

Mapfre tower y Hotel Arts, also known as the Twin Towers of Barcelona, were the first skyscrapers to be seen in the city. In 1992, due to the Olympic Games, both buildings were built facing the Barceloneta beach. The formed duo was completed with the Golden Fish designed by Frank Gehry. The two skyscrapers reach a height of 154m, making them the seventh highest in Spain. The Mapfre tower contains 40 office floors where you’ll find some of the country’s most important enterprises. Hotel Arts has 44 floors, in which it accommodates the most exclusive tourists in the city, all willing to pay around 500 Euros a night.

We could have stayed here to sleep. The views from the room must be spectacular!

Yeah but we’re having a better time in the hostel.

Avda. Diagonal, 209 2005 Architect: Jean Nouvel

This

I know it’s not nice to say, but more than a geyser, it looks like something else.

I think that all people from Barcelona say the same at some point!

building is 145m high and has got 34 floors. It is Barcelona’s third highest building. Jean Nouvel wanted the building to come out of the ground as if it were a geyser, since it would be home to the offices of Barcelona’s water company. From here, you can clearly see the mountain of Montserrat and the Sagrada Familia. It is more beautiful to see at night because of its impressive lighting, which has been used to mark the clock’s strokes for New Years in the last few years. It has been climbed on two occasions, in 2006 and in 2007. It is the main entrance to Barcelona’s district called 22@, an old industrial zone converted into a new technological district in the city.

FORUM PHOTOVOLTAIC PLATE 2004 Architects: Jacques Herzog y Pierre de Meuron The

building known as the Forum of Barcelona was constructed in 2004 for the Universal Former of Cultures and is located within a large space, which is today open to the public. It takes the shape of an equilateral triangle (180 metres latitude by 25 metres altitude) that stands itself above 17 suspension points. Inside the building, there is also a shallow indoor pool that serves as a thermal insulator. In one side of the open space, which faces the sea, a photovoltaic panel almost the size of a football field was installed. It is capable of generating enough energy for the consumption of a thousand homes. The exhibition site has an area for more bathrooms in the summer and throughout the year, it hosts various fairs, parties and events.

It’s amazing how this construction holds itself up with such few suspension points.

Just in case, I’m keeping my distance.

This

Viktoria, I think we must be the only tourists that have made it here.

It’s just that there are very few tourists that are as adventurous as us! I don’t want to miss out on not even one corner to visit!

district goes up the sides of the Collserola mountain range, which has determined the location and the typology of its urbanization. Important families of the Catalan bourgeoisie constructed some towers in the area and some of them still stand. Horta used to be an autonomous municipality that later joined Barcelona in 1904. One of its neighbourhoods called Vall d’Hebrón was built to accommodate the journalists that came to report the ’92 Olympic Games. It is here that you’ll fin done of the city’s main hospitals and also some of the faculties for the Universidad de Barcelona. Located in the neighbourhood’s hub, Plaza Ibiza, a bar called El Quimet d’Horta is known for making the best sandwiches in the city.

Passatge Castanyers, 1 These gardens and its mansion

(with its share of neo-Arabic and neo-Gothic influences) belonged to the Desvalls family since the end of the 18th century until it was handed over to the city in 1967. In 1994, thanks to European funds, the residential complex was restored. The labyrinth, with its 750m of trimmed cypress trees, is part of the neo-classical garden that dates back to the 18th century and was designed by Domenico Bagutti. The visitor can also walk through a romantic garden that was work of Elies Rogent from the 19th century. In order to preserve the natural environment, the park allows a limited capacity of 750 visitors. These gardens have given place to royal receptions, classical theatre performances and the filming of a scene in the movie “Perfume: Story of a Murderer.”

We could start in the middle of the labyrinth and see who gets to the exit first.

OK, and whoever loses pays for a drink.

TIBIDABO: IGLESIA Plaça Tibidabo, 5 Architect: Enric Sagnier Although

It’s really astounding to see up close the building that looks over Barcelona and that seems to emerge out of the highest point of the city.

Viktoria, at times, you get too philosophical…

it is more commonly known as the Church of Tibidabo, its name is the Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús (The Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus). In 1886, in honour of Saint John Bosco’s visit, they built a chapel, which is now adjacent to the temple. From this moment own, they began to urbanize the mountain: an amusement park, one of the oldest in Europe, was built in 1899, and then in 1901 a funicular that goes to the top was installed. The construction of the Church began in 1902 but didn’t end until 1961. It is made up of an inside crypt and a superior church. It is a building full of symbolism and, for its characteristics, reminds us of the Sacré Coeur in París. The outside image of the Sacred Heart initially began as a work piece of Frederic Marés. During the Civil War, it was destroyed and replaced by another, a replica of the first, done my Josep Miret. Tibibus T2 from Plaça Catalunya.

Carretera de Vallvidrera al Tibidabo 1992 Architect: Norman Foster This

telecommunications tower sends transmissions to Barcelona’s TV channels. It was constructed for the 1992 Olympic Games It is located on the Serra de Collserola, right in the Pico de la Vilana, with a height of 445m above sea level. The tower has a total height of 288m. The 10th floor (135m up high) is open to the public and there you’ll find the observation area, from where you can see up to a radius of 70m with clear skies. This space is also rented out for parties and conventions. The external glass lift, which takes you to the 10th floor, goes through the 135m in 2 and a half minutes, allowing a splendid panoramic view. Tibibus T2 from Plaça Catalunya.

This is by far the best view of Barcelona!

Needless to say…

PARK OF INDUSTRIAL SPAIN Carrer Muntades, 37 1985 Architect: Luis Peña Ganchegui This

Sant Jordi, according to the legend, slaughtered the dragon in order to save the princess. He is the patron saint of Catalonia That’s why they always say his name…

park covers the old location of a former textile factory called the España Industrial (also known as Vapor Nou), which opened in 1847 and had to close in 1981. In 1972, the factory moved location and this space no longer was of use. After many neighbourhood protests, the space turned into a public park in 1985. One of the most popular elements of ornamentation is the dragon (Drac de Sant Jordi), a giant sculpture (32m long and 12m high) made by the sculptor Andrés Nagel. It comes out of the lake and is also a toboggan for children. They also put sculptures in the park for the 1929 Expo, which are still present today.

NATIONAL THEATER OF CATALONIA Plaça de les Arts, 1 1997 Architect: Ricardo Bofill This

is a public institution that focuses on supporting theatre heritage, contemporary drama and dance. The National Theatre and the Auditori, which is just beside, form the so-called Plaza de las Artes, one of the key reference points for the nation’s culture. The bigger theatre has 870 seats that are organized following the example of a classic amphitheatre. For that reason, visibility and sound are perfect from anywhere you are sitting. The foyer was conceived as a big covered agora (a public meeting space). The building’s ceiling is supported by 26 columns that are 12m high.

This building reminds me of something…

When the architect devised his plan, he was surely inspired by Greek architecture.

The

Viktoria, I really liked the nerve centre of Les Corts since it has more of a local humble character. In my case, I would live in one those mansions we saw on Pearson Avenue.

district of Les Corts is located on the west side of the city. It is the least populated, but also the third smallest. Pedralbes is one of its neighbourhoods. Les Corts joined Barcelona in 1897. Since then, the neighbourhood of Pedralbes has been the heart of the city’s upper class. Pedralbes owes its name to the Monastery of Pedralbes (1326), which is a representative example of Catalan Gothic art. The Pedralbes race track was the first one in Spain for Formula 1 and in the 40s and 50s; it was host to car and motor races. Les Corts is known for three big sports centres: Camp Nou (the football stadium), the Barcelona Tennis Club (where they celebrated the Godó) and the Royal Polo Club of Barcelona.

Carrer d’Arístides Maillol, 12 1957 Architects: Francesc Mitjans, Josep Soteras and Lorenzo García Barbón

This

is the stadium on the Fútbol Club Barcelona, one of the city’s teams. It has always been known as Camp Nou, although this name only became official in 2001. It can host up to 98,934 spectators, making it the stadium with the highest capacity in Europe. Inside Camp Nou’s facilities, you’ll find the FC Barcelona museum, the most visited in all of Catalonia. Foster and Partners won the contest to remodel the stadium, which will start in 2009. More than just hosting sport events, Camp Nou has also been the stage for John Paul II’s mass in 1982 and a huge array of concerts. Its members can spread their ashes over the field if that is what they wish.

I’d be a Barça supporter just so I could celebrate my team’s victory in a stadium like this one.

I’d prefer to have been here for a U2 or Michael Jackson mega concert.

Plaça dels Països Catalans, s/n

This

The AVE took 7 years to come to Barcelona and there are still some more years before it gets going to France.

But Viktoria, that’s the speed train for you.

is the primary train station in Barcelona. From here, there are departures and arrivals to regional, national and International destinations. It dates from 1930 and it was reformed in 1979 and again in 1992. In 2007, it was equipped to the AVE Speed Train, creating a new hall and bigger tracks. The AVE finally arrived in Barcelona in February 2008. Today, from Sants station, you can take the speed train to Zaragoza and Madrid, but there is also the intention for them to go to France. The façade is the work of sculptor Josep Maria Subirach.

MONTJUÏC AND SPAIN PLACE The

Plaza España must be the roundabout most feared of by novice drivers!

Yeah, and besides being the main entrance to Montjuïc, it’s one of the areas with the highest-density traffic in the city.

square itself dates from 1908, even though it was urbanized in 1929 for the Universal Expo that took place that year. In the middle of the square, there’s a huge fountain, which was part of an original project of Josep Maria Jujol that envisioned it as a homage to water. Towards the mountain of Montjuïc, and headed by two immense Powers (47 metres each) that imitate Venetian bell towers, thought of by Ramón Raventós, there is María Cristina avenue where the exposition pavilions are situated on both sides. At the end of this avenue, the work of Carles Buigas put into place the so-called Magic Fountain. When it is running, it becomes a beautiful spectacle of water, sound and colour. The show begins at 9:30pm on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays and it repeats itself four times on every night.

Parc de Montjuïc, s/n 1990 Built

for the 1929 Expo, the National Palace is now site of the National Art Museum of Catalonia. The building had a very important role: it was where the Expo’s opening ceremony took place. MNAC is the result of the 1990 joining of the collections from the Modern Art Museum and the Art Museum of Catalonia. Later on, more relevant collections were added, such as the ThyssenBornemisza in 2004. The museum is now a display of Catalan art from the Romanesque period up until the 20th Century. There are even works by El Greco, Velázquez, Rubens, and Cranach. The museum contains around 250,000 works, among which is highlighted the collection of Romanesque art, as it is one of the most important in the world.

It’s from here that yesterday we saw those new shafts of light toward the sky.

Yeah, they were installed for the Expo and write the city’s name in the sky.

1992 Architects : Federico Correa, Alfonso Milà, Carles Buixadé and Joan Margarit In

I’m amazed by all the sports facilities that the city has.

If you were to live here, I think that you would definitely start off your career as a top athlete.

1992, they renovated all of Montjuïc’s sports facilities and they constructed new ones for the purpose of the Olympic Games that Barcelona hosted. The Olympic Ring makes reference to the area that is covered by the Olympic Stadium, the Picornell Pools, where the swimming competitions were celebrated with sights of the whole city, the Sant Jordi Palace and the National Institute of Physical Education of Catalonia. In the Olympic Ring, there is to be found the commemorative monolith (119 m high) of the Olympic Games designed by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.

MONTJUÏC CASTLE Carretera Montjuïc, 66 Being the first fortification in Montjuïc made in 1640, this castle was constructed during the War of the Segadors in a record time of 30 days. It took the form it has now in 1799. Napoleon’s troops took over the castle in 1808. At the end of the 19th Century, the castle housed the victims of social political repression and of the worker’s struggle. It was also there where the people who were under arrest from Barcelona’s Tragic Week were kept. On October 15th, 1940, Lluís Companys, the president of the Catalan government, was shot dead in the castle of Montjuïc. The castle was ceded to the city in 1960 under the direction and management of the Earth Army and then exclusively to the city in 2007, when it was promoted with “Barcelona has got a castle!”. In fact, Barcelona is one of the few cities in the world that still conserves a castle of defence. The castle’s restoration will begin in 2009 and will host a space for the learning and recovery of memory. Inside the castle, there is the military museum of Montjuïc, though soon its location will be moved to Figueres.

Viktoria, they say that from the Castle lookout, you can see Mallorca on a clear and sunny day.

For the time being, what is sure is that you can see the port and the enormous cruise ships that dock in Barcelona.

OLYMPIC STADIUM Passeig Olímpic, 17 Architect: Pere Domènech i Roura

It

Did you know that the stone they extracted from the stadium construction in 1992 is now being used for the construction of the Sagrada Familia?

Now you see, nothing is created nor destroyed, everything transforms.

is one of the great architectonic achievements that were done for the Universal Expo in 1929. At that time, it was the second biggest stadium in the world, just behind Wembley. It was remodelled in 1992 for the Olympic Games, giving it a capacity of 55, 000 spectators Until June 2009, it is the field for Real Club Deportivo Espanyol. In 2001, it was officially named Estadio Olímpico Lluís Companys in honour of the president of the Catalan parliament who, in 1940, was executed very close by in the Castle of Montjuïc.

Passeig Olímpic, 7 1990 Architect: Arata Isozaki This

venue was built for the Olympic Games andi s the most important part of the Anella Olímpica (Olympic Ring). What is highlighted most is its roof: it was designed on a computer by Mamoru Kawaguchi, and is an impressive work of engineering. The dome was built at ground level and later pieced together with the help of a complex system of cranes. It can fit up to 17, 000 people seated and up to 24, 000 for concerts. It is a very versatile space that now includes an Olympic pool and that has given place to big shows, a big Buddhist meeting in 1994 and big international names such as Bruce Springsteen, Queen, Shakira, and Madonna.

We can check out the listings and see if there’s a concert we could go to. Alright, that really sounds like a cool plan.

PLACE SARDANAS sardana monument in Montjuïc was designed by Josep Cañas in 1966. This sculptor also made a monument to Carmen Amaya, which is also located in the mountain of Montjuïc. There is an inscription that says the following: “The sardana is the most beautiful dance…”. The sardana is a traditional Catalan dance that is performed in a group or in a circle. The dancers, of all ages, hold each other’s hands as they form a big circle. It also consists of them lifting up their legs to the beat of the music with movements such as wide and short steps forward and back. The music is lead by the coblas, groups of eleven wind and double-bass musicians. The sardana was brought over by the Catalans from Sardinia and grew in popularity during the 16th century. The

Nina, I don’t think they dance this in clubs.

That’s too bad because I’ve already learned the steps!

FOUNDATION JOAN MIRÓ Carretera de Miramar, 1 1975 Architect: Josep Lluís Sert

The

idea came from Miró himself in 1968. He wanted to create an exhibit space for contemporary art and his own as well (he donated a part of it to the city in 1975). It was the first state museum for contemporary art. In his work,, Joan Miró (18931983) worked with all the avantgarde movements to finally end up creating his own recognizable style where the colours evoke childhood and the primitive art from the caverns. The building looks rationalist, though it does not forget its roots. It respects Mediterranean architecture by having an olive tree placed in the inside patio. The collection (including sculptures, textiles, ceramics, graphic art and sketches) has more than 14,000 pieces of art. You can also find in the museum the famous Mercury Fountain that was designed by Alexandre Calder in 1937.

They say that this foundation is the work that brings together two friends and two of the most recognized Catalans, Miró and Sert.

The truth is that together they make a good team.

Avda. Marquès de Comillas, 8 In

I read that from 1940 to 1002 it was the National National Police.

I think the place is better as a museum.

1908, the entrepreneur Casimir Casaramona assigned this construction of a Barcelona cotton factory to Josep Puig i Cadafalch. Nevertheless, the factory closed in 1920. The space was then used as a warehouse during the 1929 Expo and also a National Police headquarters. The Foundation La Caixa bought the building to install a centre for contemporary art. Francisco Javier Asarta was head of its restoration project. Arata Isozaki designed the current entrance to al CaixaForum: a large glass and steel tree welcomes the visitors, reminding us of the pavilion Mies Van Der Rohe. In total, 3000 m2 of exhibit space has been set up, as well as other spaces, like the auditorium, the media library,… Its contemporary art collection is one the most important in Spain. There is the permanent exhibit of Joseph Beuys titled “The Fuse Room” (La habitación de plomo).

SPANISH TOWN Avda. Marquès de Comillas, 13 1929 Architects: Francesc Folguera y Ramon Reventós It

was one of the principal attractions of the Universal Expo and one of the few that are still in use today. It was part of a project done by Josep Puig i Cadafalch: to display in a minimal space the best examples of Spanish architecture and to give somewhat an idea of the Iberian Peninsula. We enter the fairground crossing through some city walls (like those of Ávila) and once inside, we can see the collage made of Spain: the steps of Santiago de Compostela, the reproduction of the typical Castilian main square, the lively Andalusian neighbourhood,… Like any small town, it is alive with artisans (who have their workshops), merchants, schools (theatre, painting) We can go get a drink at the bar designed by Xavier Mariscal. It is also a meeting place for Barcelona’s youth, since inside there are many clubs.

It’s really an interesting place. Do you think we can already say that we known all of Spain?

Well, if anything, the trip through the peninsula has been very cheap!

Sitges

Are we going to go for a swim? It’s also part of being a tourist…

The truth is that a bit of salt water, sun and sand don’t hurt at all.

is a village located on the Garraf coast, 45 minutes from Barcelona. It has always been a place for people of Barcelona to spend their summers. Santiago Rossinyol, the modernist painter, spent long periods in Sitges, turning it into a meeting place for modernist artists. Museu Cau Ferrat is a must see. Here you can admire the most important wrought-iron collection in the world and also original paintings by El Greco, Rossinyol, Casas, Novell y Picasso. It is also recommended visiting Museu Maricel, Museu Romàntic and the Iglesia parroquial de Sant Bartolomeu i Santa Tecla. Above all, one mustn’t go to Sitges without strolling on its boardwalk and through the streets of the old centre. These days, Sitges is known for the Carnival it celebrates each year, for being gay-friendly and for its nightlife that fires up the summer nights.

MONTSERRAT MONASTERY In

Catalan, Montserrat means jagged mountain, a name that was give for its interesting morphology. It’s the most important and mysterious mountain in Catalonia. The Virgin of Montserrat is popularly known as “La Moreneta” for its black face and hands. It’s a carving from the 12th century. The abbey was built in the 16th century and is late-Gothic. Today, it forms a community of 80 monks. However, Montserrat is not just worth visiting for its important religious function but also for its landscapes and the various paths that appeal to mountain and nature goers. You can climb up to Montserrat by an electric train, by cable car (in only 5 minutes) and of course, by car and on foot. If you use public transport, then you must go to Plaza España and buy the “anada y tornada” (there and back) ticket that includes the train (FGC) and the funicular, called TREN + AERI. The changeover is quick and easy. Those interested visit the mountain at night because there is a legend that says that around the massif, you can see UFOs.

Viktoria, did you know that the Moreneta is the patron saint of Catalonia?

Yeah, and according to local belief, if you ask the Virgin for a wish (and get in line too), it will be surely granted.

The

We’re so lucky to have been here for the Mercè!

You’re right, we didn’t even know about it.

Virgin of the Mercè is the patron saint of Barcelona. The 24th of September, day of the Mercè, is a holiday and around this time, they celebrate the city’s big festival (Fiesta mayor), which usually lasts five days to a week. It first began in 1871 but it was not until 1902 that people began to celebrate the fiesta as we know it today. The Mercè gathers a series of popular traditions that come from all over Catalonia: the correfoc (fireworks on the street), the sardana (traditional dance), the castellers (human castles), the gegants (giant puppets) and the capgrossos (an oversized mask that people wear and use for the street parade). The streets fill up with music and all kinds of activities (a marathon, swimming across the port) Each year, the celebration closes with a huge firework musical.

This

is a typical Catalan tradition, especially in the regions of Tarragonès, l’Alt Camp, l’Alt Penedès and Baix Penedès. It consists of people standing on each other’s shoulders so as to raise human towers. They have their origin in the small human towers that the Valencian Dances enacted, but later, they became independent from the dance and formed pieces aside. The first documented discovery of this kind of activity dates back to 1805. Each city has one or more colles castelleres (groups that train together in order to later compete) that face each other off in the major festivals (fiestas mayors) of the Catalan towns. The castle is only considered complete when the l’anxeneta (the youngest girl who arrives at the top) raises her hand.

I’m scared that the little girl at the top is going to fall!

Me too, though I’m sure they practice it a lot.

The

The whole thing of hitting the trunk so that it “shits” presents is quite far-fetched, I don’t know where Catalans got it from…

The truth is I had never heard of anything like it before.

winter holidays begin on the 8th of December with the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, and it’s a public holiday in all of Spain Christmas is celebrated on the 25th of December and Boxing Day (San Esteban) on the 26th People from Barcelona usually have their holidays at the end of the month and so they take advantage of the opportunity to stock up on presents for relatives. According to Spanish tradition, presents are given on the day of the Kings (January 6th), and not on Christmas Day. The night before, children go horseback riding and follow their Majesties around the city since the moment they disembark at the port. If they are lucky, lots of candy will fall on top of them. Although Christmas is for the family, there is an abundance of street activities that fall on these dates. In Sant Jaume square, a gigantic nativity, which displays the birth of Christ, is constructed. The most interesting figurine from the Catalan nativity is the caganer –essentially, a man bending down and answering to nature’s call. It is also a Catalan custom to make the Cagatió “cagar”(literally, take a dump) on Christmas Eve. When December begins, children start feeding him and on Christmas Eve, they start banging him with a stick while they sing. If they have been wellbehaved, chocolate, candy and other sweet things will come out from the Cagatió’s behind.

Barcelona

is the ideal place to go for a walk because of its weather, its proximity and the beauty of its streets. It should not take more than 5-10 minutes to walk from one metro station to another. The easiest way to travel is by metro, which allows you to get to any point of the city. If you want to leave the city and go to Sitges, Montserrat or the airport, for example, you must use the RENFE Cercanías trains or the FGC (Ferrocarriles Catalanes). To get to the airports, you can also take the Aerobus, which has a stop in plaza Cataluña. At night, you can also choose to take the “nitbus” (overnight bus), which has its destination and leaving point from Plaça Catalunya. There are also taxis. Another way of seeing the city, which many tourists ask for, is on the “Bus Turístic”. Tickets last the whole day and let you take it as many times as you want. There are many other alternative means of transport such as horse cars, the tiny cars from GoCar, Segways, Trixi, Barnabike, Bicing, etc.

I find public transport very complicated to use. There are too many ticket options and different ways.

It’s easy. Let’s buy a T-10 ticket for the two of us. It gives us 10 trips for the bus or for the metro and it doesn’t have a time limit.

Barcelona

Tell me you’re not going to make me follow you around shopping all through Barcelona.

Whether you come or not, I’m going to shop.

is an excellent option for those who want to fill their closets and who have no problems using their credit card. Corte Inglés is the only state chain of department stores, where you pretty much buy everything. More exclusive international names have their stores on Passeig de Gràcia and on the Rambla Catalunya. If you prefer something more Spanish (and more affordable), stop into Desigual or Custo. People from Barcelona prefer shopping around Portal del Ángel. It is here that you’ll find the big names and chains, where the Spanish group Inditex prevails. They own Zara, Bershka, Massimo Dutti, and Pull and Bear. It is true that, like in the rest of Spain, Barcelona is dead on Sundays. So everything is closed except for the Maremagnum shopping mall. Those wishing for some quirky souvenir can visit the market called Els Encants (open on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday), where one can find, if looked for well enough, all kinds of interesting second-hand things.

If

you are in Barcelona and looking forward to going out at night, you are in luck because it is a city well-known for its partying. What you need to know before anything else is that everything happens later: dinner is later, drinking is later and the clubs fill up later (even though they don’t close until 5-6am). If you are up for the young hipster scene in Barcelona, Gracia or el Born is the place to be. And if later, you want to keep the party going, Razzmatazz (around Marina, an area with more clubs and bars) and Sala Apolo are highly recommended dance clubs. On the other hand, if you prefer to be around the upper class (who is also a bit older), you can go get a drink on the streets Santaló and Mariano Cubí, and then later, pay the entrance fee for Luz de Gas (an old theatre turned dance club). The last two recommendations: a dance club called Sutton the Club (where people dress up and show off what they’ve got) and the Sala Bikini (a classic concert venue in Barcelona that later turns into a dance club).

Where are we going tonight? I feel like partying!

Don’t worry, Nina…there are always guys around hanging out flyers, it will be a surprise.

One of the most typical staples

How exciting to eat at the same restaurant where Picasso and Ramón Casas used to come to! It’s exactly here in Els Quatre Gats, and at this table, that they shot Vicky Cristina Barcelona

is pà amb tomàquet (bread with tomato) and it is something so simple as rubbing the bread with red tomatoes and adding a drizzle of oil on top. Many Catalans can’t manage to eat a sandwich without tomato on their bread. One of the most typical plates is butifarra amb mongetes: a charcoal grilled fresh sausage served with white beans. The escalibada is also very typical: oven-cooked vegetables (red pepper, eggplant, and onion). They are usually served with anchovies (that come from La Escala, on Girona’s Costa Brava) People recommend bringing home a decent supply of ham and nougat.

RECOMMENDATION: Els Quatre Gats C/. Montsió, 3 bis Metro: Urquinaona (L1 )

Both

Catalan and Spanish are the official languages in Catalonia. Even though all inhabitants are fluent in Spanish (schooling is done in Catalan and it includes Spanish classes), most people express themselves in Catalan. Nevertheless, don’t be scared to use Spanish since everyone will understand you. There are newspapers, shows, cinema, television, literature,… all in Catalan. All the city signs are in Catalan, which may lead to some confusion for the tourist. Sortida - Exit Obert - Open Tancat - Closed Anada Tornada -Return Ticket Enllaç – Link, Connection Empenyeu – Push Carrer – Street Lavabos – Rest rooms, toilets Si us plau – Please Gràcies – Thank you Horaris – Timetable Preu - Price Estació - Station Platja - Beach Adéu - Goodbye Benvingut - Welcome

And now, how do we get out?

Through the sortida, Nina. Tonight we’re going to study some Catalan.