Technical introduction

Finale Ligure, thanks to its micro-climate, has the huge advantage that you can climb the whole year round, and it is for this reason that it is very well known and popular with climbers from all over Europe. The rock in Finale is a marine limestone characterised by pockets and drops created by dripping water.Vertical walls and slightly leaning slabs are the predominant style of climbing. For several decades now stainless steel glued bolts have been used due to the proximity of the sea, which with its salt air would corrode at great speed any non-stainless steel anchors, and also due to the porosity of the rock that makes expansion bolts less reliable. The predominant style of climbing is technical on vertical fingery walls, almost always with a hard single that is found in most cases in the last few meters of the route. There are however overhangs and roofs to be discovered with other types of holds like tufas, or horizontal edges; cracks, arêtes and corners are found especially on the classic multi-pitch routes. The existing crags in the Finale area are numerous and year-by-year they grow in number; currently there are about 4000 routes divided between more than 213 sectors with many different orientations which makes it possible to climb in the different seasons. It is rare to find belay chains with a carabiner, usually there is a closed maillon rapide (blocked so that it cannot be opened) and even more often there is not even a chain but two fixed anchors “French style”. The distance between the bolts is not normally that great, the average bolting leaves about 2 meters between one protection and the next, but given that there are many bolters who have made some sort of contribution in the Finale area over the years, it is possible to come across crags where the bolts are more widely spaced. In Finale Ligure it is also possible to climb on crags situated on the sea cliffs experiencing the “thrill” of climbing with the sea beneath your feet; the crags in the Capo Noli area (Dancing Dalle, Easy Dalle, I Pilastri, and Nolitudine) have this characteristic and also the peculiarity of climbing on a type of limestone that is very different from the rest of the Finale area. A couple of crags can be reached on foot from the railway station: Paretina di Finalborgo (30 minutes) and Rocce dell’Orera (50 minutes). The average length of the footpaths to reach the crags is 20 minutes, only in rare cases 10 or 40 minutes. In about 15 minutes it is possible to drive from one crag to another. The general difficulty of the routes goes from 3a and reaches 8c+, most crags have routes going from 6a to 7a and the really easy routes are unfortunately few and scattered here and there in various sectors. It should also be noted that specific signs to reach the crags are practically non-existent and the widest and most obvious paths are those that lead to the more popular crags. The numerous junctions and forks, combined with the dense vegetation, do not help in reaching the sectors. For this reason, it was decided, in this guidebook, to pay particular attention to the description of the approaches and to include GPS points for each crag. There are numerous sectors that are particularly beautiful, either for the quality of the rock or for their location, and that merit being visited. Some of these should absolutely not be missed: Grotta dell’Edera, Grotta della Strapatente, Bric Scimarco, I Tre Frati, Monte Sordo and Rocca di Corno.

Tourist Information Office for Finale Ligure • +39 019 681019 • finalehotel@libero.it

Breakdown service, A.C.I. • +39 803116

Mountain Rescue Finale Ligure • 118 • www.soccorsoalpinofinaleligure.it

Carabinieri • 112

Police • 113

Fire Brigade • 115

Medical emergencies and ambulance service • 118

Road police • +39 019 681501

Urban police • +39 019 691380 Urgent medical care (Guardia Medica) • 800 556688

Chemist: Farmacia Del Borgo (Finalborgo) • +39 019 690623

Chemist: Farmacia Della Marina (Finalmarina) • +39 019 692670

Santa Corona Hospital (Pietra Ligure) • +39 019 62301

San Paolo Hospital (Savona) • +39 019 84041

Taxi service • +39 338 6084798

If you want to contact the author: Marco “Thomas” Tomassini • +39 346 6932376 • www.finalebythomas.com • info@finalebythomas.com

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Gianni Calcagno, Alessandro Grillo, Vittorio Simonetti, La pietra del Finale, guida alle palestre di arrampicamento Finalesi, Siag Genova, 1975 Andrea Parodi, Alessandro Grillo, La pietra di Finale, guida alle arrampicate e alle escursioni, Microlito editrice, 1983 Andrea Gallo, Giovanni Massari, Finale, Melograno edizioni, 1987 Andrea Gallo, Finale, 1200 vie di arrampicata, Melograno edizioni, 1990 Andrea Gallo, Finale, 1500 vie di arrampicata, Idee verticali edizioni, 1994 ALP arrampicata, Monografie: il Finalese, 30 anni di passione, Torino, Vivalda Editori, mensile anno XIII, numero 162, ottobre 1998 Andrea Gallo, Finale Y2K, Idee verticali edizioni, 2000 Marco “Thomas” Tomassini, Finale by Thomas, Un viaggio tra le vie del Finalese che più amo, passo per passo, metro per metro, Le Mani Edizioni, 2007 Andrea Gallo, Finale 007, Idee verticali edizioni, 2008

Summary

Introduction by the author .............. 4 Technical introduction ................. 6 Birds of Prey ........................ 12 Reading scheme ..................... 14 General Map ........................ 16 Exposure of crags .................... 18 Alphabetical order ................... 22

ARENE CANDIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 01 Cava di Rio Fine .................. 30 02 Placca Dicchio .................... 03 Il Cimitero....................... 32 04 Falesia dell’Indigeno ............... 05 Pietra del Sole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 06 Canazei.......................... 07 Parsifal ......................... 38 08 Orizzonte ....................... 40 09 Falesia delle Cento Corde.......... 42

VALLE PORA (FINALBORGO) ........... 46

10 Rocce dell’Orera settore destro ..... 50 11 Rocce dell’Orera settore sinistro .... 54 12 Paretina di Finalborgo............. 58

ROCCA DI PERTI ..................... 60 The Protagonists. Andrea Gallo ........ 64 Il Vecchio di Alessandro Grillo ......... 66 13 Parete delle Gemme .............. 68 14 Placca dell’Oasi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 15 Settore delle Ombre Blu ........... 78 16 Scimmiodromo .................. 86 17 Placca del Gibbone ................ 18 Placca Piotti ..................... 88 19 Pancia dell’Elefante.............. 100 20 Testa dell’Elefante ............... 104 21 Grottino di Perti ................... 22 L’Olimpo ....................... 106 23 Falesia degli Dèi ................ 110 24 Settore Centrale di Perti .......... 114 25 Il Giardino...................... 122 26 Falesia dei Tre Porcellini.......... 126 27 La Cengia degli Androidi .......... 130 28 Settore Settentrionale di Perti ..... 134 29 Falesia della Lucertola ........... 148 30 Falesia del Gabbiano ............. 150 31 Falesia di Billy Budd ............. 152 32 Falesia del Suonatore Jones....... 154 33 Perti-versante Nord.............. 156 34 Grottino del Bric della Croce ...... 168 35 Grotto di Perti................... 172 36 Cengia degli Urucchi ............. 176 37 Tigrotto ........................ 178

ROCCA CARPANEA .................. 182 38 Terzo Livello .................... 188 39 Falesia del Kaimano ............. 190 40 Placca delle Case Valle ........... 194 41 Zambaland ..................... 198 42 Le Rovine ...................... 200 43 Grotta di Sant’Antonino ........... 202 44 Bric scimarco-Antri Rossi......... 204 45 Bric Scimarco Superiore.......... 208 46 Bric Scimarco Inferiore ........... 214 47 Parete Dimenticata .............. 218 48 Grotta dell’Edera ................ 222 49 Placca d’Angolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 50 Lo Specchio .................... 228 51 I Coralli.......................... 52 Falesia della Lumaca ............ 232 53 Monte Sordo-settore Centrale ..... 234 54 La Boulangerie ................. 238 55 La Gourmanderie................ 240 56 Placca-Pilastro di Mu ............ 242 57 Alveare ........................ 248 58 La Scaletta ..................... 250 59 Le Tecchie ..................... 252 60 Falesia dello Scorpione........... 258 61 Pilastrino Mirovino............... 260 The Protagonists. Renato Berruti ..... 262 62 Grotta della Pollera ................ 63 Paretina di Avatar ............... 264 64 Scoglio di Avalon .................. 65 Paretina di Pian Marino........... 266

VALLE AQUILA ..................... 278 68 Bric del Frate settore Destro Nord.. 284 69 Bric del Frate settore Centrale..... 288 70 Bric del Frate settore Sinistro ..... 292 71 Caffettiera ..................... 298 72 Parete dell’Aquila................ 302 73 Kattedrale...................... 308 74 Sakrestia ...................... 312 75 Konvento......................... 76 Bric Grigio settore il Grottino ...... 314 77 Bric Grigio settore Destro ......... 316 78 Tibet .......................... 318 79 Bric Grigio settore Sinistro ........ 320 80 Bric Grigio settore Placca Inferiore . 324 81 Bric Grigio settore Placca Superiore 328 82 Falesia del Serpente ............. 330 83 Il Castello ...................... 332 84 Tre Frati ....................... 334 85 Falesia del Priore................ 338 86 Falesia della Coccinella .......... 342 87 Il Sasso.......................... 88 Muro degli Indomiti ................ 89 Falesia della Pulce ................ 90 Attico.......................... 346 91 Falesia del Gorilla ............... 350 92 Cengia degli Infami .............. 354 93 Superpanza .................... 358 94 Placca dei Maleducati ............ 366 95 Bric Pianarella-Monotiri ............ 96 Bric Pianarella-Paretone ......... 374 97 Bric Pianarella settore Altro Livello. 398 98 La Mansarda ................... 402 99 I Missili ........................ 406

MONTE CUCCO ..................... 408 The Protagonists. Alessandro Grillo.... 412 100 La Taverna ..................... 414 101 Cucco 2........................ 416 102 Grottone (l’Arca) ................. 418 103 Monte Cucco settore Orientale..... 422 104 La Torre ....................... 424 105 Settore Primi e Secondi Passi ..... 428 106 Monte Cucco settore Centrale ..... 430 107 Canyon ........................ 438 108 Anfiteatro (Fenia) ................ 442 109 Piccolo Canyon.................. 448 110 Campanile e Placca del Polpaccio .. 450 111 Sahara Wall .................... 454 Michelangelo Sanguineti racconta..... 456 112 Settore Machetto ................ 460

VALLE DI RIAN CORNEI .............. 464

The Protagonists. F. Balbi e A. Costaguta . 474 113 Un Domani ..................... 476 114 Buridda.......................... 115 Falesia dell’Invidia ............... 478 116 Pasticceria del Bosco ............ 480 117 Italsider settore Inferiore ......... 482 118 Italsider sett Sup. (Acciaieria)...... 486 119 Placca Nevruz .................. 488 120 Falesia del Castagno ............. 490 121 Falesia del Bruco................ 494 122 Falesia del Falco .................. 123 Ciappo delle Conche-Superiore .... 496 124 Ciappo delle Conche-Inferiore ..... 500 125 Falesia degli Amici .............. 504 126 Omo ora settore Basso ............. 127 Omo ora settore Alto ............... 128 Bocca di Bacco.................. 506 129 Placca Graziella................... 130 Falesia del Ragno ................. 131 Falesia del Delfino................. 132 Falesia del Gufo ................... 133 Gola dei Briganti-sett Inf.......... 508 134 Gola dei Briganti-sett Sup ........ 512 135 Falesia della Formica .............. 136 La Goletta...................... 518 137 Cortometraggio ................. 520 138 La Consolle ...................... 139 Ronchiadilly Circus .............. 522 140 Dimenticatoio 1 ................... 141 Dimenticatoio 2 ................... 142 Avancorpo Placc.Rian Cornei . . . . . . 526 143 Placc Centrale di Rian Cornei...... 528 144 Falesia dell’Eco Superiore .......... 145 Falesia dell’Eco Inferiore.......... 534 146 Falesia della Tranquillita.......... 540

147 Falesia del Guru................. 544 148 Camelot 1...................... 548 149 Camelot 2...................... 552 150 Falesia dell’Orso ................ 556 151 Falesia di Parsifal ................. 152 Falesia del Nirvana ................ 153 Cordon Bleu .................... 560 154 Antro delle Streghe .............. 570 155 Falesia del Corvo .................. 156 Falesia del Silenzio Superiore ..... 578 157 Falesia del Silenzio Inferiore....... 582 158 Striature Obese ................. 588 159 Tempio del Vento . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 592 160 Falesia del Cinghiale ............. 598 161 Falesia della Volpe................. 162 Falesia del Lupo................... 163 Falesia del Geko...................

BORAGNI E VALLE DI NAVA ........... 602

The Protagonists. Matteo “Donde“ Felanda. 606 164 Avancorpo di Boragni ............ 608 165 Il Pilastro ...................... 614 166 Skarafonia ..................... 620 167 Sasso Scorpion ................. 624 168 Sasso Crazy Brothers ............ 626 169 Bastionata Sinistra Boragni ....... 630 170 Falesia del Panda ................. 171 Bastionata Centrale Boragni ...... 640 172 Bastionata Destra Boragni . . . . . . . . 642 173 Strapatente settore Sinistro ......... 174 Strapatente settore Gocce Doc..... 648 175 Grotta della Strapatente .......... 652 176 Grotta Strapatente Superpatente ... 656 177 Domus Aurea ................... 658 178 Estathe ........................ 662 179 Il Vascello ...................... 664 180 Falesia della Luna ............... 668 181 Falesia del Sole ................. 670 182 Grotta dei Pipistrelli.............. 674

VALLE SCIUSA E VALLE PONCI ........ 676

The Protagonists. Giorgio Delfino ..... 680 183 La Fornace ..................... 682 184 Lacrema’ settore Basso .......... 686 185 Lacrema’ settore Alto .............. 186 Lacrema’ settore la Nuvola ......... 187 Bric Reseghe ................... 690 188 Casa del Vacche’ ................ 700 189 Falesia dello Scoiattolo ........... 706 190 Rocca di Corno-Ghiro (Est) ........ 708 191 Rocca di Corno-Futura (Est) ....... 712 192 Rocca di Corno settore SudEst..... 716 193 Rocca di Corno settore Sud ....... 720 194 Rocca di Corno-Zona Rossa ....... 728 195 Rocca di Corno settore Ovest ...... 732 196 Falesia sulla Strada.............. 736 197 Cresta degli Uccelli .............. 738 198 L’Altra Faccia della Cresta........... 199 Rocca degli Uccelli-Avancorpo ..... 740 200 Rocca degli Uccelli-p. Principale . . . 744

ALTOPIANO DELLE MÀNIE ............ 750

201 Museo dell’Uomo................ 754 202 Monolocale..................... 756 203 Falesia del Makaco .............. 760 204 Falesia del Mammut ............. 764 205 Falesia dell’Airone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 768 206 Mesa Verde..................... 770 207 Falesia della Gazzella ............ 772 208 Falesia del Paguro............... 774 209 Falesia Officina Andrassa ...........

CAPO NOLI ........................ 776 210 Dancing Dalle................... 780 211 Easy Dalle...................... 782 212 Primo e secondo Pilastro ......... 784 213 Nolitudine...................... 788

The crags numbered in red and with the iClimbing logo are only available on the app. Use the code you find on page 1, follow the instructions, download the complete guide on iClimbing and enjoy all the digital content.