FINALE Climbing

FINALE climbing

Sport climbing and

routes

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING

MARCO TOMASSINI

First edition November 2011

Second edition Mai 2017

Third edition October 2022

ISBN 978 88 55470 834

Copyright © 2022 VERSANTE SUD – Milano, via Rosso di San Secondo, 1. Tel. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it

All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image Alveare, Viola Bergamelli, Viaggio nel Futuro, 7c+ (© Francesco Agnolucci)

Text Marco Tomassini

Drawings and topos Iacopo Leardini and Tommaso Starace

English translation Melanie Roberts

Maps Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout Ilaria Raboni

Printing Tipolitografia Pagani – Passirano (BS), Italy

ZERO miles

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced!

It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed.

Climbers benefit from local authors: locals know the latest news and updates locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags

Local authors promote and respect their area: they review only the spots where climbing is allowed they pay attention in the same way to any different spot they meaningfully interact with local actors

Note

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags

ZERO miles

This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

In memory of Elena Carpignano, a friend with a contagious smile that none of us will ever forget.

Aiguille du Jardin, Mont Blanc

MARCO TOMASSINI

FINALE climbing

Sport climbing and multi-pitch routes

Introduction by the author

The Finale area is magical and inimitable: wild, harsh and with an exceptional landscape. These white limestone cliffs that emerge from the luxuriant and deep green vegetation are unique in the whole western region of Liguria. The Finale area is a place to be explored that offers even today after 30 years of climbing and trekking, surprising views for climbers, trekkers and bikers… and for anyone who feels like walking around these valleys. The wild nature of the Val Cornei and the Val di Nava, the solitary and majestically imposing wall of Monte Cucco, of the North face of Perti and of the Bastionata di Boragni, the beauty, the colours and the views from Rocca di Corno, the vertical walls of Lacremà and its ancient Borgo, Noli and the sea ruffled by the North wind, make this region a unique place.

For these reasons the Finale area is frequented by lovers of nature and outdoor sports from all over Europe. The paths of Finale are travelled not only by climbers, but also trekkers, bikers, bir dwatchers, archaeologists and cavers. With respect for this diversity, everyone needs to approach this territory with care and show consideration for other visitors. With a renewed interest in climbing, 2011 was already a turning point with the award of the prize “A life for Finale” to Alessandro Grillo, making a well deserved, if late, gesture of thanks to a personality whose life has been indissolubly linked with the rock of Finale. My work has also been part of this renewed interest. It has two very important aims: above all to make these splendid crags accessible to everyone, to allow them to experience the emotions of climbing routes that offer new perspecti ves on the surrounding territory, but not only. This guidebook is an attempt above all to thank and acknowledge all those people like Alessandro Grillo, Gianni Calcagno, Vittorio Simonetti and the brothers Gian Luigi and Eugenio Vaccari who, in far off 1968 with mountaineering boots on their feet, discovered Finale starting its vertical history, to the many young, and not so young, people today that still bolt, clean paths and keep this legacy alive. A tribute to all the bolters, from the glories of the past to the new generations, without which my work would not exist.

Marco (Thomas) Tomassini (© Tommaso Longo)

Alveare, Alessandro Codecà, Diverso Perverso, 7b (© Federico Bagarin)

Technical Introduction

Finale Ligure, thanks to its micro-climate, has the huge advantage that you can climb the whole year round, and it is for this reason that it is very well known and popular with climbers from all over Europe.

The rock in Finale is a marine limestone characterised by pockets and drops created by dripping water.Vertical walls and slightly leaning slabs are the predominant style of climbing.

For several decades now stainless steel glued bolts have been used due to the proximity of the sea, which with its salt air would corrode at great speed any non-stainless steel anchors, and also due to the porosity of the rock that makes expansion bolts less reliable.

The predominant style of climbing is technical on vertical fingery walls, almost always with a hard single that is found in most cases in the last few meters of the route.

There are however overhangs and roofs to be discovered with other types of holds like tufas, or horizontal edges; cracks, arêtes and corners are found especially on the classic multi-pitch routes. The existing crags in the Finale area are numerous and year-by-year they grow in number; currently there are about 4000 routes divided between more than 213 sectors with many different orientations which makes it possible to climb in the different seasons.

It is rare to find belay chains with a carabiner, usually there is a closed maillon rapide (blocked so that it cannot be opened) and even more often there is not even a chain but two fixed anchors “French style”.

The distance between the bolts is not normally that great, the average bolting leaves about 2 meters between one protection and the next, but given that there are many bolters who have made some sort of contribution in the Finale area over the years, it is possible to come across crags where the bolts are more widely spaced.

In Finale Ligure it is also possible to climb on crags situated on the sea cliffs experiencing the “thrill” of climbing with the sea beneath your feet; the crags in the Capo Noli area (Dancing Dalle, Easy Dal le, I Pilastri, and Nolitudine) have this characteristic and also the peculiarity of climbing on a type of limestone that is very different from the rest of the Finale area.

A couple of crags can be reached on foot from the railway station: Paretina di Finalborgo (30 minu tes) and Rocce dell’Orera (50 minutes).

The average length of the footpaths to reach the crags is 20 minutes, only in rare cases 10 or 40 minutes.

In about 15 minutes it is possible to drive from one crag to another.

The general difficulty of the routes goes from 3a and reaches 8c+, most crags have routes going from 6a to 7a and the really easy routes are unfortunately few and scattered here and there in various sectors.

It should also be noted that specific signs to reach the crags are practically non-existent and the wi dest and most obvious paths are those that lead to the more popular crags. The numerous junctions and forks, combined with the dense vegetation, do not help in reaching the sectors.

For this reason, it was decided, in this guidebook, to pay particular attention to the description of the approaches and to include GPS points for each crag.

There are numerous sectors that are particularly beautiful, either for the quality of the rock or for their location, and that merit being visited. Some of these should absolutely not be missed: Grotta dell’Edera, Grotta della Strapatente, Bric Scimarco, I Tre Frati, Monte Sordo and Rocca di Corno.

NUMBERS AND ADDRESSES

Tourist Information Office for Finale Ligure

• +39 019 681019

• finalehotel@libero.it

Breakdown service, A.C.I.

• +39 803116

Mountain Rescue Finale Ligure

• 118

• www.soccorsoalpinofinaleligure.it

Carabinieri • 112 Police • 113 Fire Brigade • 115

Medical emergencies and ambulance service • 118

Road police • +39 019 681501

Urban police • +39 019 691380

Urgent medical care (Guardia Medica)

• 800 556688

Chemist: Farmacia Del Borgo (Finalborgo) • +39 019 690623

Chemist: Farmacia Della Marina (Finalmarina) • +39 019 692670

Santa Corona Hospital (Pietra Ligure) • +39 019 62301

San Paolo Hospital (Savona) • +39 019 84041

Taxi service • +39 338 6084798

If you want to contact the author: Marco “Thomas” Tomassini • +39 346 6932376

• www.finalebythomas.com

• info@finalebythomas.com

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Gianni Calcagno, Alessandro Grillo, Vittorio Simonetti, La pietra del Finale, guida alle palestre di arrampicamento Finalesi, Siag Genova, 1975

Andrea Parodi, Alessandro Grillo, La pietra di Finale, guida alle arrampicate e alle escursioni, Microli to editrice, 1983

Andrea Gallo, Giovanni Massari, Finale, Melograno edizioni, 1987

Andrea Gallo, Finale, 1200 vie di arrampicata, Melograno edizioni, 1990

Andrea Gallo, Finale, 1500 vie di arrampicata, Idee verticali edizioni, 1994

ALP arrampicata, Monografie: il Finalese, 30 anni di passione, Torino, Vivalda Editori, mensile anno XIII, numero 162, ottobre 1998

Andrea Gallo, Finale Y2K, Idee verticali edizioni, 2000

Marco “Thomas” Tomassini, Finale by Thomas, Un viaggio tra le vie del Finalese che più amo, passo per passo, metro per metro, Le Mani Edizioni, 2007

Andrea Gallo, Finale 007, Idee verticali edizioni, 2008

Summary

Introduction by the author .............. 4

Technical introduction 6

Birds of Prey ........................ 12 Reading scheme 14

General Map ........................ 16 Exposure of crags 18 Alphabetical order 22

ARENE CANDIDE 26

01 Cava di Rio Fine 30

02 Placca Dicchio

03 Il Cimitero ....................... 32

04 Falesia dell’Indigeno

05 Pietra del Sole 34

06 Canazei

07 Parsifal 38

08 Orizzonte 40

09 Falesia delle Cento Corde .......... 42

VALLE PORA (FINALBORGO) 46

10 Rocce dell’Orera settore destro 50

11 Rocce dell’Orera settore sinistro .... 54

12 Paretina di Finalborgo 58

ROCCA DI PERTI 60

The Protagonists. Andrea Gallo 64

Il Vecchio di Alessandro Grillo 66

13 Parete delle Gemme 68

14 Placca dell’Oasi 72

15 Settore delle Ombre Blu 78

16 Scimmiodromo .................. 86

17 Placca del Gibbone

18 Placca Piotti 88

19 Pancia dell’Elefante 100

20 Testa dell’Elefante 104

21 Grottino di Perti

22 L’Olimpo ....................... 106

23 Falesia degli Dèi 110

24 Settore Centrale di Perti 114

25 Il Giardino 122

26 Falesia dei Tre Porcellini 126

27 La Cengia degli Androidi 130

28 Settore Settentrionale di Perti 134 29 Falesia della Lucertola 148 30 Falesia del Gabbiano 150 31 Falesia di Billy Budd 152 32 Falesia del Suonatore Jones 154 33 Perti-versante Nord.............. 156 34 Grottino del Bric della Croce 168 35 Grotto di Perti 172 36 Cengia degli Urucchi 176 37 Tigrotto 178

ROCCA CARPANEA 182 38 Terzo Livello 188 39 Falesia del Kaimano 190 40 Placca delle Case Valle 194 41 Zambaland ..................... 198 42 Le Rovine 200 43 Grotta di Sant’Antonino 202 44 Bric scimarco-Antri Rossi 204 45 Bric Scimarco Superiore 208 46 Bric Scimarco Inferiore 214 47 Parete Dimenticata 218 48 Grotta dell’Edera 222 49 Placca d’Angolo 226 50 Lo Specchio 228 51 I Coralli

Falesia della Lumaca 232

Monte Sordo-settore Centrale 234

La Boulangerie ................. 238

La Gourmanderie 240

Placca-Pilastro di Mu 242

Alveare 248

La Scaletta 250

Le Tecchie 252

Falesia dello Scorpione ........... 258

Pilastrino Mirovino 260 The Protagonists. Renato Berruti 262

Grotta della Pollera

Paretina di Avatar 264

Scoglio di Avalon

Paretina di Pian Marino 266

66 Bric del Frate settore Ovest ....... 270

67 Falesia del Riccio 274

VALLE AQUILA 278

68 Bric del Frate settore Destro Nord .. 284

69 Bric del Frate settore Centrale 288

70 Bric del Frate settore Sinistro 292

71 Caffettiera 298

72 Parete dell’Aquila 302

73 Kattedrale 308

74 Sakrestia ...................... 312

75 Konvento

76 Bric Grigio settore il Grottino 314

77 Bric Grigio settore Destro 316

78 Tibet 318

79 Bric Grigio settore Sinistro 320

80 Bric Grigio settore Placca Inferiore 324

81 Bric Grigio settore Placca Superiore 328

82 Falesia del Serpente 330

83 Il Castello 332

84 Tre Frati 334

85 Falesia del Priore 338

86 Falesia della Coccinella 342 87 Il Sasso ..........................

88 Muro degli Indomiti 89 Falesia della Pulce 90 Attico 346

91 Falesia del Gorilla 350 92 Cengia degli Infami 354 93 Superpanza .................... 358 94 Placca dei Maleducati 366

95 Bric Pianarella-Monotiri

96 Bric Pianarella-Paretone 374

97 Bric Pianarella settore Altro Livello 398 98 La Mansarda 402 99 I Missili 406

MONTE CUCCO 408

The Protagonists. Alessandro Grillo 412 100 La Taverna ..................... 414 101 Cucco 2 416 102 Grottone (l’Arca) 418 103 Monte Cucco settore Orientale 422 104 La Torre 424 105 Settore Primi e Secondi Passi 428

106 Monte Cucco settore Centrale ..... 430 107 Canyon 438 108 Anfiteatro (Fenia) 442 109 Piccolo Canyon 448 110 Campanile e Placca del Polpaccio 450 111 Sahara Wall 454 Michelangelo Sanguineti racconta 456 112 Settore Machetto 460

VALLE DI RIAN CORNEI .............. 464

The Protagonists. F. Balbi e A. Costaguta 474 113 Un Domani 476 114 Buridda 115 Falesia dell’Invidia 478 116 Pasticceria del Bosco 480 117 Italsider settore Inferiore 482

118 Italsider sett Sup. (Acciaieria) 486 119 Placca Nevruz 488 120 Falesia del Castagno 490 121 Falesia del Bruco 494 122 Falesia del Falco 123 Ciappo delle Conche-Superiore .... 496 124 Ciappo delle Conche-Inferiore 500 125 Falesia degli Amici 504 126 Omo ora settore Basso 127 Omo ora settore Alto 128 Bocca di Bacco 506 129 Placca Graziella ................... 130 Falesia del Ragno 131 Falesia del Delfino 132 Falesia del Gufo 133 Gola dei Briganti-sett Inf 508 134 Gola dei Briganti-sett Sup 512 135 Falesia della Formica 136 La Goletta 518 137 Cortometraggio 520 138 La Consolle 139 Ronchiadilly Circus 522 140 Dimenticatoio 1 141 Dimenticatoio 2 142 Avancorpo Placc.Rian Cornei . . . . . . 526 143 Placc Centrale di Rian Cornei 528 144 Falesia dell’Eco Superiore 145 Falesia dell’Eco Inferiore 534 146 Falesia della Tranquillita 540

147 Falesia del Guru ................. 544

148 Camelot 1 548

149 Camelot 2 552

150 Falesia dell’Orso 556

151 Falesia di Parsifal

152 Falesia del Nirvana

153 Cordon Bleu .................... 560

154 Antro delle Streghe 570

155 Falesia del Corvo

156 Falesia del Silenzio Superiore 578

157 Falesia del Silenzio Inferiore 582

158 Striature Obese 588

159 Tempio del Vento . . .

. 592

160 Falesia del Cinghiale 598

161 Falesia della Volpe

162 Falesia del Lupo

163 Falesia del Geko

BORAGNI E VALLE DI NAVA 602

The Protagonists. Matteo “Donde“ Felanda 606

164 Avancorpo di Boragni 608

165 Il Pilastro 614

166 Skarafonia ..................... 620

167 Sasso Scorpion 624

168 Sasso Crazy Brothers 626

169 Bastionata Sinistra Boragni 630

170 Falesia del Panda

171 Bastionata Centrale Boragni 640 172 Bastionata Destra Boragni . . . . . . . . 642

173 Strapatente settore Sinistro

174 Strapatente settore Gocce Doc 648

175 Grotta della Strapatente 652

176 Grotta Strapatente Superpatente 656

177 Domus Aurea 658

178 Estathe 662

179 Il Vascello 664

180 Falesia della Luna 668

181 Falesia del Sole 670

182 Grotta dei Pipistrelli 674

VALLE SCIUSA E VALLE PONCI 676

The Protagonists. Giorgio Delfino 680

183 La Fornace 682

184 Lacrema’ settore Basso 686

185 Lacrema’ settore Alto ..............

186 Lacrema’ settore la Nuvola

187 Bric Reseghe ................... 690 188 Casa del Vacche’ 700 189 Falesia dello Scoiattolo 706 190 Rocca di Corno-Ghiro (Est) 708 191 Rocca di Corno-Futura (Est) 712 192 Rocca di Corno settore SudEst 716 193 Rocca di Corno settore Sud 720 194 Rocca di Corno-Zona Rossa 728 195 Rocca di Corno settore Ovest 732 196 Falesia sulla Strada 736 197 Cresta degli Uccelli 738 198 L’Altra Faccia della Cresta 199 Rocca degli Uccelli-Avancorpo 740 200 Rocca degli Uccelli-p. Principale . . . 744

ALTOPIANO DELLE MÀNIE 750 201 Museo dell’Uomo 754 202 Monolocale ..................... 756 203 Falesia del Makaco 760 204 Falesia del Mammut 764 205 Falesia dell’Airone 768 206 Mesa Verde 770 207 Falesia della Gazzella 772 208 Falesia del Paguro 774 209 Falesia Officina Andrassa

CAPO NOLI 776 210 Dancing Dalle 780 211 Easy Dalle...................... 782 212 Primo e secondo Pilastro 784 213 Nolitudine 788

The crags numbered in red and with the iClimbing logo are only available on the app. Use the code you find on page 1, follow the instructions, download the complete guide on iClimbing and enjoy all the digital content.

BIRDS OF PREY

Climbers from all over the world know the Finale area as a simply amazing place, with a unique limestone rock, and endless paths and climbing routes that have become part of the history of clim bing. The rock in Finale, where climbers live out their vertical passion, is the result of long geological and environmental processes that have transformed the current landscape of Finale making it rich in plateaus, valleys of varying widths, vertical rock walls, hills and caves: a natural environment that is still for the most part intact, inhabited by many animal and plant species, that today represents the biggest and most extensive biodiversity related to a coastal environment in the whole of Liguria. In fact it is possible to find native flowers (in particular the well known Campanula Isophylla) and examples of fauna that are of great naturalistic interest like the ocellated lizard, the peregrine falcon and the eagle owl. To these should be added the important archaeological remains left by pre-histo ric man, by the Romans and by our medieval ancestors, that give the area not only an environmental but also a cultural and historical importance. This beautiful area however is fragile and vulnerable and to be maintained intact for future generations suitable forms of protection need to be taken. In fact, even if walking along footpaths and climbing are amazing activities, they are even more so if the territory in which they take place is respected by those who use it. In 1994, after an agreement reached between climbers, the WWF and LIPU, the Province of Savona identified several areas and climbing crags where climbing is prohibited to allow birds of prey to nest. There are very few areas in the rest of the world where it is possible to climb in the same area where falcons and eagle owls nest, and for Finale this is an essential quality that goes over and abo ve the idea of bolting a crag at all costs to the detriment of rare and protected species. In Finale, the outdoor environment is an important tourist resource, but this must not become harmful to the territory. We are convinced that people who are truly passionate about the outdoor environment and climbing are aware of the value and potential of such a rare and unique environment, and are able to maintain an equilibrium with the nature that surrounds them.

SUI PARCHEGGI E CRITICITÀ VARIE

The roads that lead to the climbing sites (specifically Perti, Monte Sordo, Rocca di Corno, Boragni and Bric Reseghe) allow you to reach the starting points by car. However, on these roads there is al most everywhere a ban on parking, as these routes are very narrow and transit must always be gua ranteed especially for emergency vehicles. For the same reason, on the final stretch (last 3-5-km) of the Perti - Pian Marino road that leads to the Monte Sordo sector and to the north and west walls of the Rocca di Perti, there are length and weight limits, which do not allow the transit of campers and vans. On the road leading to Monte Sordo - from Piazza Martiri Perticesi onwards - there are bans both for transit and parking for all campervans and vans, as well as along the Calvisio Vecchia road (Via Bedina and neighboring roads). More generally throughout the territory of the Municipality of Finale Ligure, there is a general ban on camping and staying overnight in vehicles outside the authorized areas for reasons of decorum and public health. The Local Police frequently check the indicated areas.

Parking and areas where theft is a risk: It has now been a problem for many years, particularly in certain parking areas that lead to the crags Rocca di Perti, Superpanza, Rocca di Corno, Boragni and Noli, and the problem of theft from cars and damage to windows and tyres continues to occur. Also, the areas where this happens are unfor tunately increasing. We seriously recommend not leaving anything in the car, especially valuables, and to leave the boot area uncovered so that it is obvious that the car is completely empty, and is of no interest to anyone with ill intentions.

Alessandro Grillo, Alessandro Vergano&Marta Tosco, Alessio Chiappino, Andrea Costaguta, Anna Enrich&Mike Schwitter, Bibo Colnaghi, Cesare Mar chesi, Daniele Canale, Davide Carena, Davide Scotto, Enri co Cella, Filippo Rizzo, Fulvio Balbi, Fulvio Vigo, Giancarlo Gabutto, Giorgio Delfino, Gio vanni Rocca, Guido Nota, Lu ciano Pizzorni, Marco Pukli, Matteo Felanda, Mauro Care na, Mauro Rossi, Michaela Fi scher, Renato Berruti, Renato Delfino, Silvio Ivaldi, Tommy Longo, Umberto Pellegrini, Yorick Fischli.

Also I thank all those people who have helped me occasio nally but unfortunately I don’t know their names and those that I may have forgotten... THANK YOU!

AKNOWLEDGMENTS

READING SCHEME

splendid worthy nice not exciting

This description takes into account a number of factors which include, besides the beauty of the rock and the pitches, the surrounding environment, how peaceful the area is and anything that can make a crag splendid, beautiful, deserving or not at all interesting This evaluation is personal and individual.

comfort at base

equipment

number of visitorsbeauty

perfect good pay attention terrible

The description takes into account the distance between each protection placed and their position in relation to the route.

ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

comfortable uncomfortable take care tie in

General indication which evaluates how comfortable the terrain is where one stands to belay. In some crags, even if the majority of the bases below each pitch are comfortable, for some it might be necessary to tie in or balance on a small terrace.

Ù

ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

very low low medium high parking very good good sufficient difficult

This indication is useful when planning any transfers, especially in case there are many people with more than one car: if the car park is not big enough or difficult to find we recommend to use the least possible number of cars or to use public transport.

This indication refers to the average amount of people found at the crag during the recommended period and with ideal climatic conditions.

falling rocks

IN ALL CRAGS THERE IS THE CHANCE OF ROCK FALL. THE USE OF A HELMET IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED BOTH FOR THOSE CLIMBING AND FOR THOSE BELAYING!

In crags where this danger is greater and more concrete, the indication YES highly recommends the use of a helmet.

This information is very useful when deciding which crag to choose depending on one’s personal taste. For many gneiss crags, the indications can be sometimes misleading since this kind of rock is also very different and usually the climbing can change a lot from crag to crag. This doesn’t happen for dolomite rock, limestone, granite or sandstone crags where the rock and type of climbing are always very similar.

The indications of how long an approach walk is on foot from the cark park, to the base of the crag or the first sector you reach, is calculated at an average walking speed considering even the weight of the gear (rope, back pack, quick draws, climbing shoes, water, clothes etc). The length of time can vary on the basis of the climatic conditions and terrain. For example in late autumn, some paths may be totally covered by leaves so as well as losing the tracks, walking becomes slower. Same thing happens in case of steep access during hot summer days under the beating sun. The indication is personal and variable depending on other factors which can affect the times of the approach walk.

This indication highlights the crags which have the ideal pitches for beginners or for anyone climbing for the “first time”. The bolts on these routes are usually very safe and placed nearby even if some exceptions might exist.

fit for family

This indication should not be confused with the presence or not of easier pitches but simply to make it clear if it is possible to reach the base of this crag with small children or if a constant control is needed on the part of the adults. Many crags are often not ideal for families or small children due to exposed ledges, difficult or dangerous approach walks, rock fall, or the presence of a busy road or other objective dangers.

BRINGING CHILDREN INTO A NATURAL ENVIRONMENT IS NONETHELESS RISKY. THE AUTHOR’S INDICATION ONLY TRIES TO HELP ADULTS FIND THE AREAS WITH MINOR OBJECTIVE RISKS. IT IS OBVIOUSLY UP TO THE PARENTS THE FINAL ASSESMENT OF THE AREA IS THE CONSTANT ASSISTANCE TO MINORS.

Is it difficult to find the car park? With a simple scan of this code through one of the many available apps it is possible to activate the navigator through your smartphone which will lead you directly to the car park. The coordinates refer to Google maps.

In spite of the effort to make the accesses to the car parks and crags as clear as possible, if it is very difficult to understand where to go, just scan this code you will be able to visualise the crag’s position on Google or other maps.

qrcode parking

qrcode base of wall

type of rock approach time

beginners school

Finale is probably the most appreciated climbing destination in Europe. Its incredible climbing history, the possibility to climb on some of the best limestone in the world 365 days a year, the quality and variety of the routes: all these elements contribute to make Finale a real “Mecca” for climbing enthusiasts.

Moreover, Finale was never a bunch of crags to be “used” to satisfy personal ambitions, Finale is a magical place with amazing landscapes and colours you will fall in love with, where everybody finds something more than a just a number of crags.

This magic is due to the massive work carried out by some dreamers who cleared, bolted and re bolted more than 200 crags; the preservation of this place is also possible thanks to “self-manage ment”: in all these years, visitors have been responsible and aware that the most effective way to protect the territory comes directly from their behaviour.

The territory of Finale is one of the richest in the Mediterranean region in terms of biodiversity and archaeological heritage. It would not have been possible to preserve these assets, if climbing had turned into a form of mass tourism “out of control”.

If this territory can offer you so many emotions, it’s thanks to all the people who respect it and belie ve that the future visitors – if they really love climbing – will be aware of the value and the potentiality of such a unique place, and they will behave accordingly, in harmony with nature.

CLIMBING MEANS RESPECT

RESPECT RAPTORS

In 1994, after an agreement between climbers, WWF and LIPU, the province of Savona identified certain areas and crags where climbing is banned in order to protect birds’ nesting activity. Ple ase, check the ongoing restrictions on the guidebook before planning your climbing. There are few places in the world where you can climb in the nesting territory of such no teworthy species as the Peregrine Falcon and the Eurasian Eagle-owl; this is an essential value for the territory of Finale, which is more important than the desire to bolt another crag at all costs, or to climb when it is forbidden at the expense of some rare species which need to be protected.

RESPECT THE ENVIRONMENT

Do not leave your trash at the crag or along the trail. If you smoke, take your stubs home. If you need to relieve yourself, you should keep away from crags and trails, hide your “wastes” digging a small hole into the ground and covering it with stones, and do not leave napkins on the ground as they may be carried away by the wind. Respect the wildlife you see along the trail or on the rocks, do not pick up flowers and remember that it is forbidden to light fires.

RESPECT THE ROCK

Fingers must adapt to the rock and not the other way round, therefore it is forbidden to chip or modify the holds on climbing routes.

If you mark the holds with the chalk, it is a good practice to clear the marks at the end of your climbing.

RESPECT THE OTHER PEOPLE

The crag belongs to everyone, therefore avoid to “monopolize” the routes as much as possible. If you are climbing top-rope, you must use your own gear (a screwgate carabiner is enough) to avoid wearing out the anchors.

Avoid to spread your backpacks and gear everywhere at the crag.

You don’t need to inform the entire valley that you have finally sent your project, therefore, unless it’s an emergency, it’s better to control your volume of voice.

HOW TO SUPPORT THE TERRITORY AND CLIMBING OF FINALE

A big thank you to all the bolters who devoted much of their time for creating a place that is now enjoyed by the entire climbing community, encouraging the development of an important touristic reality. Their work, often unnoticed and away from the spotlights, has received sponsorships and economic support over the years from certain specialized shops of Finalborgo. However, this sup port was never systematic enough to allow a constant bolting activity, therefore, driven by their own passion, they paid out of their pockets the gear which is now used by everyone.

As for the MTB trails, Finale Outdoor Region invented a system which allows everybody to actively contribute to the crags’ maintenance.

The FOR YOU CARD was created to allow each user to give a little contri bution while doing what they like, thus supporting the creation and con stant maintenance of Finale’s trails and crags. If you like climbing in Fi nale, buy the card (it costs 10€ and is valid for 1 year) and use it for your purchases at the shops participating in this initiative: you collect points for further discounts and vouchers, and most of all a small part of your ex pense will be used for the maintenance of the territory. In this way you can contribute effectively to the protection of Finale’s fragile ecosystem.

The funds raised through the FOR YOU CARD will sup port specific interventions of rebolting, purchasing of new gear and clearing of the access trails to the crags.

BORGIO

FEGLINO

FINALBORGO

VARIGOTTI

Mànie

ALTIPIANO DELLE

NOLI

CAPO

SPOTORNO

AVANCORPO DI BORAGNI 608

BASTIONATA CENTRALE BORAGNI................... 640

BASTIONATA DESTRA BORAGNI....................... 642

BASTIONATA SINISTRA BORAGNI..................... 630

BRIC DEL FRATE SINISTRO.............................. 292

BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE DESTRO.........................316

BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE IL GROTTINO................ 314

BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE PLACCA INFERIORE.....324

BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE PLACCA SUPERIORE.....328

BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE SINISTRO..................... 320

BRIC RESEGHE............................................... 690

BRIC SCIMARCO INFERIORE............................ 214

BRIC SCIMARCO SUPERIORE........................... 208

BURIDDA................................................................

CAFFETTIERA................................................. 298

EASY DALLE .................................................. 782

FALESIA DEGLI AMICI...................................... 504

FALESIA DEL BRUCO ..................................... 494

FALESIA DEL CINGHIALE ................................ 598

FALESIA DEL FALCO..............................................

FALESIA DEL GEKO...................................

FALESIA DEL KAIMANO................................... 190

FALESIA DEL LUPO...................................

FALESIA DEL PANDA.................................

FALESIA DEL SOLE......................................... 670

FALESIA DELLA FORMICA..........................

FALESIA DELLA LUNA..................................... 668

NORTH

BOCCA DI BACCO 506

BRIC DEL FRATE CENTRALE 288

BRIC DEL FRATE DESTRO NORD 284

CENGIA DEGLI URUCCHI 176

CORTOMETRAGGIO 520

DIMENTICATOIO 1

DIMENTICATOIO 2

ESTATHE 662

FALESIA DEL CASTAGNO 490

FALESIA DEL SUONATORE JONES 154

FALESIA DI BILLY BUDD 152

FALESIA OFFICINA ANDRASSA

GOLA DEI BRIGANTI INFERIORE 508

GROTTA DEI PIPISTRELLI 674

GROTTA STRAPATENTE SUPERPATENTE 656

GROTTA DELL’EDERA 222

GROTTA DI SANT’ANTONINO 202

GROTTINO DEL BRIC DELLA CROCE 168

GROTTO DI PERTI 172

I MISSILI 406

FALESIA DELLA VOLPE..............................

FALESIA DELL’INDIGENO.....................................

FALESIA DELL’INVIDIA..................................... 478

GROTTA DELLA STRAPATENTE......................... 654

IL PILASTRO................................................... 614

ITALSIDER INFERIORE.................................... 482

ITALSIDER SUPERIORE................................... 486

KATTEDRALE.................................................. 308 KONVENTO................................................

LACREMÀ SETTORE ALTO ................................ LACREMÀ SETTORE BASSO............................. 686

LACREMÀ-LA NUVOLA..............................

LE ROVINE..................................................... 200 MESA VERDE.................................................. 770 NOLITUDINE................................................... 788

PARETE DELL’AQUILA..................................... 302 PASTICCERIA DEL BOSCO............................... 480

PLACCA NEVRUZ............................................ 488 ROCCA DI CORNO-FUTURA............................. 712 ROCCA DI CORNO-GHIRO................................ 708 SAKRESTIA 312 STRAPATENTE GOCCE DOC 648 STRAPATENTE SETTORE SINISTRO TERZO LIVELLO 188 TRE FRATI 334 UN DOMANI 476 ZAMBALAND 198

IL CASTELLO 332 IL VASCELLO 664 LA GOLETTA 518 LA TAVERNA 414 L’ALTRA FACCIA DELLA CRESTA MONTE CUCCO PRIMI E SECONDI PASSI 428 OMO ORA SETTORE ALTO OMO ORA SETTORE BASSO PERTI-VERSANTE NORD 156 PLACCA DICCHIO PLACCA GRAZIELLA ROCCA DEGLI UCCELLI- AVANCORPO 740 ROCCA DEGLI UCCELLI PARETE PRINCIPALE 744 ROCCE DELL’ORERA DESTRO 50 ROCCE DELL’ORERA SINISTRO 54 RONCHIADILLY CIRCUS 522 SASSO CRAZY BROTHERS 626 TIBET 318 TIGROTTO 178

Altro Livello, Alessandro Codecà (© Federico Bagarin)

WEST

ALVEARE 248

ANTRO DELLE STREGHE 570

ATTICO 346

AVANCORPO PLAC CENT DI RIAN CORNEI 526

BRIC DEL FRATE OVEST 270

BRIC PIANARELLA-ALTRO LIVELLO 398

BRIC PIANARELLA-MONOTIRI

BRIC PIANARELLA-PARETONE 374

CAMELOT 1 548

CAMELOT 2 552

CASA DEL VACCHÈ 700

CENGIA DEGLI INFAMI 354

CORDON BLEU 560

FALESIA DEGLI DÈI 110

FALESIA DEI TRE PORCELLINI 126

FALESIA DEL CORVO

FALESIA DEL GABBIANO 150

FALESIA DEL GORILLA 350

FALESIA DEL GURU 544

FALESIA DEL MAMMUT 764

FALESIA DEL NIRVANA

FALESIA DEL RICCIO 274

FALESIA DELLA LUCERTOLA 148

FALESIA DELLA PULCE

FALESIA DELLA TRANQUILLITÀ 540

FALESIA DELL’ECO INFERIORE 534

FALESIA DELL’ECO SUPERIORE

FALESIA DELLO SCOIATTOLO 706

FALESIA DELL’ORSO 556

FALESIA DI PARSIFAL

FALESIA SULLA STRADA 736

GOLA DEI BRIGANTI SUPERIORE 512

GROTTA DELLA POLLERA

GROTTINO DI PERTI

I CORALLI

IL GIARDINO 122

IL SASSO

LA BOULANGERIE 238

LA CENGIA DEGLI ANDROIDI 130

LA MANSARDA 402

LA SCALETTA 250

LE TECCHIE 252

LO SPECCHIO 228

L’OLIMPO 106

MONTE CUCCO ANFITEATRO 442

MONTE C. CAMPANILE E PLACCA POLPACCIO 450

MONTE CUCCO CANYON 438

MONTE CUCCO CUCCO 2 416

MONTE CUCCO GROTTONE 418

MONTE CUCCO LA TORRE 424

MONTE CUCCO PICCOLO CANYON 448

MONTE CUCCO SAHARA WALL 454

MONTE CUCCO CENTRALE 430 MONTE CUCCO MACHETTO 460 MONTE CUCCO ORIENTALE 422 MONTE SORDO-CENTRALE 234 MURO DEGLI INDOMITI PANCIA DELL’ELEFANTE 100 PARETE DELLE GEMME 68 PARETE DIMENTICATA 218 PARETINA DI AVATAR 264 PARETINA DI PIAN MARINO 266 PILASTRINO MIROVINO 260 PLACCA D’ANGOLO 226 PLACCA DEI MALEDUCATI 366 PLACCA DEL GIBBONE PLACCA DELLE CASE VALLE 194 PLACCA DELL’OASI 72 PLACCA PIOTTI 88 PLACCA-PILASTRO DI MU 242 PLACCONATA CENTRALE DI RIAN CORNEI 528 ROCCA UCCELLI-CRESTA DEGLI UCCELLI 738 ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE OVEST 732 ROCCA DI CORNO-ZONA ROSSA 728 SASSO SCORPION 624 SCIMMIODROMO 86 SCOGLIO DI AVALON SETTORE CENTRALE DI PERTI 114 SETTORE DELLE OMBRE BLU 78 SETTORE SETTENTRIONALE DI PERTI 134 SKARAFONIA 620 SUPERPANZA 358 TESTA DELL’ELEFANTE 104

SOUTH

BRIC SCIMARCO-ANTRI ROSSI 204

CANAZEI

CAVA DI RIO FINE 30

CIAPPO DELLE CONCHE-INFERIORE 500

CIAPPO DELLE CONCHE-SUPERIORE 496

DANCING DALLE 780

DOMUS AUREA (GROTTA DEI BALCONI) 658

FALESIA DEL DELFINO

FALESIA DEL GUFO

FALESIA DEL MAKACO 760

FALESIA DEL PAGURO 774

FALESIA DEL PRIORE 338

FALESIA DEL RAGNO

FALESIA DEL SERPENTE 330

FALESIA DEL SILENZIO INFERIORE 582

FALESIA DEL SILENZIO SUPERIORE 578

FALESIA DELLA COCCINELLA 342

FALESIA DELLA GAZZELLA 772

FALESIA DELLA LUMACA 232

FALESIA DELL’AIRONE 768

FALESIA DELLE CENTO CORDE 42

FALESIA DELLO SCORPIONE 258 IL CIMITERO 32

LA CONSOLLE

LA FORNACE 682

LA GOURMANDERIE 240 MONOLOCALE 756

MUSEO DELL’UOMO 754 ORIZZONTE 40 PARETINA DI FINALBORGO 58 PARSIFAL 38 PIETRA DEL SOLE 34 PRIMO E SECONDO PILASTRO 784 ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE SUD 720 ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE SUD-EST 716 STRIATURE OBESE 588 TEMPIO DEL VENTO 592

ALVEARE 248

ANFITEATRO (FENIA) 442

ANTRO DELLE STREGHE 570

ATTICO 346

AV. PLACCONATA CENTR DI RIAN CORNEI 526

AVANCORPO DI BORAGNI 608

BASTIONATA CENTRALE BORAGNI 640

BASTIONATA DESTRA BORAGNI 642

BASTIONATA SINISTRA BORAGNI 630

BOCCA DI BACCO 506

BRIC DEL FRATE SETTORE CENTRALE 288

BRIC DEL FRATE SETTORE DESTRO NORD 284

BRIC DEL FRATE SETTORE OVEST 270

BRIC DEL FRATE SETTORE SINISTRO 292

BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE DESTRO 316

BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE IL GROTTINO 314

BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE PLACCA INF 324

BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE PLACCA SUP 328

BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE SINISTRO 320

BRIC PIANARELLA SETT ALTRO LIVELLO 398

BRIC PIANARELLA-MONOTIRI

BRIC PIANARELLA-PARETONE 374

BRIC RESEGHE 690

BRIC SCIMARCO INFERIORE 214

BRIC SCIMARCO SUPERIORE 208

BRIC SCIMARCO-ANTRI ROSSI 204

BURIDDA

CAFFETTIERA 298 CAMELOT 1 548 CAMELOT 2 552

CAMPANILE E PLACCA DEL POLPACCIO 450 CANAZEI

CANYON 438

CASA DEL VACCHE’ 700

CAVA DI RIO FINE 30

CENGIA DEGLI INFAMI 354

CENGIA DEGLI URUCCHI 176

CIAPPO DELLE CONCHE-INFERIORE 500

CIAPPO DELLE CONCHE-SUPERIORE 496

CORDON BLEU 560

CORTOMETRAGGIO 520

CUCCO 2 416

DANCING DALLE 780

DIMENTICATOIO 1

DIMENTICATOIO 2

DOMUS AUREA 658

EASY DALLE 782

ESTATHE 662

FALESIA DEGLI AMICI 504

FALESIA DEGLI DÈI 110

FALESIA DEI TRE PORCELLINI 126

FALESIA DEL BRUCO 494

FALESIA DEL CASTAGNO 490

FALESIA DEL CINGHIALE 598

FALESIA DEL CORVO FALESIA DEL DELFINO FALESIA DEL FALCO FALESIA DEL GABBIANO 150 FALESIA DEL GEKO FALESIA DEL GORILLA 350 FALESIA DEL GUFO FALESIA DEL GURU 544 FALESIA DEL KAIMANO 190 FALESIA DEL LUPO

FALESIA DEL MAKACO 760 FALESIA DEL MAMMUT 764 FALESIA DEL NIRVANA FALESIA DEL PAGURO 774 FALESIA DEL PANDA FALESIA DEL PRIORE 338 FALESIA DEL RAGNO FALESIA DEL RICCIO 274 FALESIA DEL SERPENTE 330 FALESIA DEL SILENZIO INFERIORE 582 FALESIA DEL SILENZIO SUPERIORE 578 FALESIA DEL SOLE 670 FALESIA DEL SUONATORE JONES 154 FALESIA DELLA COCCINELLA 342 FALESIA DELLA FORMICA FALESIA DELLA GAZZELLA 772 FALESIA DELLA LUCERTOLA 148 FALESIA DELLA LUMACA 232 FALESIA DELLA LUNA 668 FALESIA DELLA PULCE

FALESIA DELLA TRANQUILLITÀ 540 FALESIA DELLA VOLPE

FALESIA DELL’AIRONE 768 FALESIA DELLE CENTO CORDE 42

FALESIA DELL’ECO INFERIORE 534

FALESIA DELL’ECO SUPERIORE FALESIA DELL’INDIGENO

FALESIA DELL’INVIDIA 478

FALESIA DELLO SCOIATTOLO 706

FALESIA DELLO SCORPIONE 258 FALESIA DELL’ORSO 556

FALESIA DI BILLY BUDD 152

FALESIA DI PARSIFAL APP 151 FALESIA OFFICINA ANDRASSA

FALESIA SULLA STRADA 736

GOLA DEI BRIGANTI-SETTORE INFERIORE 508

GOLA DEI BRIGANTI-SETTORE SUPERIORE 512

GROTTA DEI PIPISTRELLI 674

GROTTA DELLA POLLERA

GROTTA DELLA STRAPATENTE 654 GROTTA STRAPATENTE SUPERPATENTE 656

GROTTA DELL’EDERA 222

GROTTA DI SANT’ANTONINO 202

GROTTINO DEL BRIC DELLA CROCE 168

GROTTINO DI PERTI

GROTTO DI PERTI 172

GROTTONE (L’ARCA) 418

I CORALLI I

MISSILI 406

IL CASTELLO 332

IL CIMITERO 32

IL GIARDINO 122

IL PILASTRO 614

IL SASSO

IL VASCELLO 664

ITALSIDER SETTORE INFERIORE 482

ITALSIDER SETT SUPERIORE (ACCIAIERIA) 486

KATTEDRALE 308

KONVENTO

LA BOULANGERIE 238

LA CENGIA DEGLI ANDROIDI 130

LA CONSOLLE

LA FORNACE 682

LA GOLETTA 518

LA GOURMANDERIE 240

LA MANSARDA 402

LA SCALETTA 250

LA TAVERNA 414

LA TORRE 424

LACREMA’ SETTORE ALTO

LACREMA’ SETTORE BASSO 686

LACREMA’ SETTORE LA NUVOLA

L’ALTRA FACCIA DELLA CRESTA

LE ROVINE 200

LE TECCHIE 252

LO SPECCHIO 228

L’OLIMPO 106 MESA VERDE 770

MONOLOCALE 756

MONTE CUCCO SETTORE CENTRALE 430 MONTE CUCCO SETTORE ORIENTALE 422

MONTE SORDO-SETTORE CENTRALE 234

MURO DEGLI INDOMITI

MUSEO DELL’UOMO 754

NOLITUDINE 788

OMO ORA SETTORE ALTO

OMO ORA SETTORE BASSO

ORIZZONTE 40

PANCIA DELL’ELEFANTE 100

PARETE DELL’AQUILA 302

PARETE DELLE GEMME 68

PARETE DIMENTICATA 218

PARETINA DI AVATAR 264

PARETINA DI FINALBORGO 58

PARETINA DI PIAN MARINO 266

PARSIFAL 38

PASTICCERIA DEL BOSCO 480

PERTI-VERSANTE NORD 156

PICCOLO CANYON 448 PIETRA DEL SOLE 34 PILASTRINO MIROVINO 260 PLACCA D’ANGOLO 226 PLACCA DEI MALEDUCATI 366 PLACCA DEL GIBBONE

PLACCA DELLE CASE VALLE 194 PLACCA DELL’OASI 72 PLACCA DICCHIO PLACCA GRAZIELLA PLACCA NEVRUZ 488 PLACCA PIOTTI 88 PLACCA-PILASTRO DI MU 242 PLACCONATA CENTRALE DI RIAN CORNEI 528 PRIMO E SECONDO PILASTRO 784 ROCCA DEGLI UCCELLI-AVANCORPO 740 ROCCA UCCELLI-CRESTA DEGLI UCCELLI 738 ROCCA UCCELLI-PARETE PRINCIPALE 744 ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE OVEST 732 ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE SUD 720 ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE SUD-EST 716 ROCCA DI CORNO-FUTURA (EST) 712 ROCCA DI CORNO-GHIRO (EST) 708 ROCCA DI CORNO-ZONA ROSSA 728 ROCCE DELL’ORERA SETTORE DESTRO 50 ROCCE DELL’ORERA SETTORE SINISTRO 54 RONCHIADILLY CIRCUS 522 SAHARA WALL 454 SAKRESTIA 312 SASSO CRAZY BROTHERS 626 SASSO SCORPION 624 SCIMMIODROMO 86 SCOGLIO DI AVALON SETTORE CENTRALE DI PERTI 114 SETTORE DELLE OMBRE BLU 78 SETTORE MACHETTO 460 SETTORE PRIMI E SECONDI PASSI 428 SETTORE SETTENTRIONALE DI PERTI 134 SKARAFONIA 620 STRAPATENTE SETTORE GOCCE DOC 648 STRAPATENTE SETTORE SINISTRO STRIATURE OBESE 588 SUPERPANZA 358 TEMPIO DEL VENTO 592 TERZO LIVELLO 188 TESTA DELL’ELEFANTE 104 TIBET 318 TIGROTTO 178 TRE FRATI 334 UN DOMANI 476 ZAMBALAND 198

CANDIDE

The group of crags that form the area that we will call Arene Candide from now on, is made up of a series of walls situated on the western side of the Caprazoppa promontory, once known under the more obvious name of “the Caprazoppa area”.

The Arene Candide actually includes nine crags of which unfortunately not all are bolted safely. The routes are mainly on slabs and vertical walls that rarely longer than 15 meters, a couple of routes on the roof at the Cimitero sector stand out.

The rock in this area is a very specific limestone, a bit different to the rest of the Finale area, and in fact the Pink Stone of Verezzi is only found here, a variation of the more famous Finale Stone. The name Arene Candide comes from the huge deposit of fine white sand, a result of wind erosion throu gh the centuries, that up until the last century made a large impact on the local landscape; the beach of white sand was an obvious landmark in the middle of the mediterranean vegetation.

GENERAL APPROACH TO THE ARENE CANDIDE CRAGS

Take the Finale Ligure motorway exit and continue straight on, reaching a roundabout after 800 me ters. Turn left at the roundabout going downhill towards the coast along the SS490. Continue for 2.7 km until the main crossroad with the coast road. Filter right onto the coast road SS1 heading towards Imperia and Borgio Verezzi. After 2.4kms, having gone through a tunnel and along a long straight section by the coast, there is a road sign on the right for Borgio Verezzi. Turn right over a level crossing and turn immediately right again going uphill towards Verezzi (Via Nazario Sauro). After 100 meters, take a dead end that goes down to the right (Via della Cornice) and continue for another 500 meters passing through the houses and then going up until a hairpin bend to the left. At this point continue straight on along a dirt road for a farther 100 meters where there is a small par king area for three cars on the left (Car Park A Arene Candide). The dirt track continues for another 100 meters way marked with “an empty red circle” until the next parking area, again on the left, for roughly three cars (Car Park B Arene Candide). From here it is recommended to continue on foot, unless you have a small four wheel drive as the road becomes pretty rough. However continuing for another 150 meters there is a third parking area, on the left, for another three cars (Car Park C Arene Candide). From here there are separate approaches for each of the crags.

Rio

Dicchio

Falesia dell’indigeno

Pietra del sole

cimitero

Parsifal Canazei Orizzonte

The Arene Candide group

up

following

Pietra del Sole Cava di Rio Fine

Parsifal

Orizzonte

Falesia delle cento corde

CAVA DI RIO FINE

This is the only sector that exists at the moment in Finale with easy and well-bolted routes. The routes go from leaning slabs to short overhangs. The place is not particularly nice, being an abandoned quarry, but it has a wonderful view and is very comfortable at the base.

All the routes are equipped with a closed “maillon rapide”. The belays were equipped in 2004 by Fulvio Scotto with glued bolts or bolt hangers.

APPROACH

From the Arene Candide Carpark C after 115 meters there is an obvious turning where you go to the right and a little after at the next turning go to the right again along a level path for 200 meters until reaching the crag.

1. BORDER LINE 4c 8m Vertical with steps

2. NELLE FAUCI DEL PIRANHA 5a 10m Vertical with steps

3. ROLLING STONE 3b 8m Slightly leaning and steps

4. STARGATE 5b 8m Vertical with steps with slight traverse to the left to exit

5. BRAIN STORMING

6. LEGATO MA LIBERO

8m Short overhang with many pockets to start, then vertical

8m Similar to the preceding but less overhanging

7. LA BRANDLER 6a+ 8m Starts on a slight overhang with edges, then leaning slab

8. BLUMOUNTAIN 5a 7m Starts on a slight overhang with edges, then leaning slab

9. ROCKSTORE 4c 6m Vertical with pockets and edges

GRAZIE A.I.B. 3c 5m Similar to the preceding

DI RIO

CIMITERO

Nice crag with mainly vertical routes on rock that is often very distinc tive, the most spectacular routes are however those that follow the roof that marks the middle part of the crag. Fulvio Balbi and Diego Nesi equipped all the routes in 1991. Nearly all the routes are equipped with glued bolts; the numbering of the routes goes from left to right.

APPROACH

Yes - No

From the Arene Candide Car park C, continue for 115 meters until an obvious junction where you turn right. Shortly after there is a second junction: go up to the left for 100 meters following the “one empty red circle” waymarks and reaching an obvious clearing on the left. From here take the path that forks off to the left going uphill with the same waymarks as before and with a red arrow (Junction 1 for Cimitero. Continue going up for 197 meters reaching another turn (Junction 2 Cimitero) where you go right continuing quite steeply uphill for a far ther 76 meters coming to another junction (Junction 3 Cimitero): go up to the left continuing uphill for 45 meters along a rocky section and reaching the final turn (Junction 4 Cimitero), now close to the crag, where you go right towards the rock going uphill for 15 meters and coming to the extreme left of the crag.

1. VATICANO 6b+ 10m Small pillar, slab start and climbs a small overhanging corner

2. TOSTAU 5c+ 15m Leaning slab and small corner

3. UN METRO SOTTO 6b+ 15m Slightly overhanging start, then moves onto slab

4. TOMBA LA BOMBA 6c+ 15m Slab with small pockets, then slightly overhanging

5. CLIC SI GIRA 6b 20m Slab start on large pockets, then vertical

6. PSICOLOGICA 6a+ 20m Vertical on white wall, then featured on grey rock

7. ULTIMA ALBA 7a 20m Vertical start on two white tufas, then slightly overhanging

8. EASY TO REMEMBER 7a 20m Vertical on small red pockets, then roof

9. ANOTHER DAY IN PARADISE 6c+ 15m Starts on tufas then roof

10. FLAUTO DI VERTEBRE 7a+ 20m First bolt really high, watch out! Starts on tufas then roof

11. SACCO D’OSSA 7b+ 15m Dangerous bolting! Starts on tufas then roof and traverse to the left

12. UN MOMENTO TRANQUILLO 7a+ 15m Starts on a tufa, hard single on overhang and run out

13. SEPPIA GRASSA 6b 15m Vertical on pockets with overhanging exit

14. COSETTA 5b 10m Featured slab with pockets

15. BAMBINO 4c 12m Featured slab with pockets

16. CONSIDERAZIONI DI UN DISTRATTO 6c+ 15m Dangerous bolting! Grey overhang

17. STAFF 6b+ 15m Follows a red overhang to the left hand side of a cavern

18. THE RETURN OF JEDI 6b+ 15m Slab start then overhang and dark grey tufas

19. THE DARK SIDE OF THE FORCE 6b+ 15m Slab start, then overhang with tufas

20. THE EMPIRE STRIKES BACK 6b 15m Starts on obvious tufa, then featured; watch out, the belay has only one anchor

IL CIMITERO

6b+ 5c+ 6b+ 6c+ 6b 6a+ 7a 7a

6c+ 7a+ 7b+

6b 5b

7a+ 4c

6c+ 6b+

6b+ 6b+ 6b

Park Arene Candide

PIETRA DEL SOLE

230 m

Bolted at the beginning of the ’90s by various different people, the Pietra del Sole crag is one of the most interesting in this group both from the point of view of the surrounding area as well as the climbing. There are both vertical routes and roofs; unfortunately the bolting, which is still the original, means that climbing here is not safe and therefore not recommended.

In the rain it is possible to take shelter beneath the pronounced roof on the right hand side of the crag.

APPROACH

Yes - No

From the Arene Candide carpark C follow the waymarks “one empty red circle” for 115 meters until an obvious junction where you turn to the right (Junction 1 Cava). After 12 meters there is another junc tion (Junction 2 Cava, where you go up to the left for 110 meters. At the next junction (Junction 1 Cimitero) continue straight on. After 27 meters there is another turning on the left that climbs steeply near a small clearing with a small rock/earth wall with horizontal frac tures. Continue straight on for 23 meters coming to another turning on the left (Junction 1 Canazei) where you leave the main dirt track. Take this path first downhill and then flat walking across boulders, making a wide turn to the left in a dip between the vegetation and then going steeply uphill along an outcrop of rock and earth. After 25 meters go up a path for 77 meters until reaching another turning (Junction 2 Canazei) situated on a level section of path near a small dry stone wall. Ignore the path that goes to the right on the level and go up to the left for a farther 75 meters along sections of broken up rock. Reaching the last turning (Junction 3 Canazei/Pietra del sole) which is difficult to see but that can be recognised by some nearby rocks and the fact that there is an iron pylon directly in line with the turning. Continue for 130 meters going up to the right, initially on a rocky path and then up rocky steps (following the line of the electricity cables almost all the way to the crag) and coming to the left hand end of this sector.

1. AZZO LA MARINA 6a 15m Vertical wall

2. MM 6a+ 15m Vertical start on tufa, exits on roof

3. SERA CENO 6a 15m Not bolted! Corner

4. GIOCO ASTUTO 6a+ 15m Starts on a slab, vertical then bulge

5. BEL AIR 6b 15m Slab with pockets with small roof to finish

6. ROBERTA LO SPIT DEI 20 ANNI 6a+ 8m Very featured then corner

7. LA CHIAVE 6b 8m Belay on tree! Pockets then bulge and roof

8. LUNA PIENA 5b 9m Slab with pockets, then becomes vertical

9. IL MOZZO 4b 8m Slab, goes diagonally a bit left

10. AZIMUT 5a 10m Slab with pockets

11. I PIRAMIDALI DI CHEOPE 6a 10m Slab, goes diagonally a bit left

12. PASSAGEL 5b 9m Tiny roof, wall with small pockets and water drops, exits going diagonally slightly right

The ledge finishes here and the crag continues on the other side of the buttress.

To reach the remaining routes descend 40 meters near the route Roberta lo spit dei 20 anni and then continue to the left going back up in the last section. There is a single route here:

13. DALAI LAMA 5c 10m Slab with small pockets, vertical wall and slab again

Continuing farther and going up steeply for about 12 meters there are the following routes:

14. POSE INESPLOSE 6b+ 10m Overhang on red rock, honeycombed, and exit on the arête to the left of the roof

15. POLVERE DI SOGNO 7b 10m Pronounced roof and exit on overhang

16. SENZA NOME ? 10m Starts on eroded red section and after a large hole climbs a roof following a crack

17. TILLERMAN 7b 10m Easy mantle to start on ledge, then continues on roof with small pockets

DURBEGA

initially leaning on

with

holds, then

PARETINA DI FINALBORGO

A great technical wall with particularly compact rock, the small cliff of Finalborgo, of a limestone similar to that of Capo Noli offers a type of rock that is very different to the rest of Finale. Marco (Thomas) To massini and Daniele (Jack) Canale took the time to restyle the crag, with help from Simone Baglietto, Max Stefanutti and Natalino Odasso. In the winter months the crag gets the sun from about 9am to 2pm.

APPROACH

From Finalborgo (Porta Testa) walk along Via Nicotera for 95 meters and then turn left into Via del Municipio. After walking for 70 meters along this road you come to Piazza del Tribunale. From here, go up along the winding brick road (via Berretta), following the way marked path (two full red circles) from Finale Ligure to Pian Marino for 300 meters until an old gate to the town in the form of half an arch (Half arch gate.

- No

Go up for a farther 75 meters until a hairpin bend to the right where a path starts behind the low wall at the edge of the road to the left. Follow this path for 8 meters and immediately take a path on the left going slightly downhill for 25 meters. At the next turning near a boulder go down another 15 meters until a rocky step, where there is a fixed rope, and scramble down for 7 meters.

At the base of the step, continue downhill for a farther 50 meters skirting the cliff, passing a level section and crossing an area of scree. Climb up a short ramp with two trees at the top reaching the extreme right of the crag.

1. ICH HABE EINEN BANDWURM

20m Easy base, then vertical, technical and sustained on good holds with a move difficult to work out half way up

2. TIRA DRITTO FURBACCHIONE 6a 20m Easy base, then vertical, technical and very sustained on positive holds

3. CUSSULÈ STU CASINU 6a 20m Diagonal ledge, delicate slightly leaning slab, then vertical and technical on good holds

4. IL MAGO DI WORD 6a+ 20m Diagonal ledge, then slab with technical climbing requiring balance and good movement on positive edges, very sustained

5. IL RAGAZZO CON L’ORECCHINO 6a+ 21m Varied climbing requiring good movement DA PIRLA on slightly leaning slab with pockets and positive edges

6. IL LABIRINTO 6a 21m Vertical requiring good movement on positive holds, final fingery wall

7. SGRILLETTAMI 6a+ 21m Easy start, a bit of intuition necessary to pass the short technical fingery slab and to position well on the final short wall

8. DECIMINO 5b 12m Starts from a rocky pulpit: climbs a leaning slab with big holds with a more technical move on the vertical wall half way up

9. MEDCAMALIA 6b+ 18m Balancy start on leaning slab, easy section with good holds with traverse to the right, short difficult overhang with edges to finish

PARETINA DI FINALBORGO

Scimmiodromo, Raffaella Cottalorda, Tant…, 7a+ (© Andrea Costaguta)

Approach for the right hand sector d

This sector can be reached by a steel cable that goes up for about 20 meters to the right of the route Arabesque. This exposed sector has a handful of really nice routes that start from a small ledge and go up a grey pillar above the cuts in the quarry. The routes were bolted mainly in 2013 by the renowned Carlo Voena. Rewind was bolted by Ivo Piovano and re-bolted by Carlo Voena, Focaccia e caffè was bolted by Aldo Ferrante and re-bolted by Carlo Voena. The ledge is small and with no protection to stop you falling off; clipping in to the bolts is recommended.

PLACCA PIOTTI RIGHT HAND SECTOR D

53. REWIND 6a+ 30m Slightly strenuous start, delicate section half way, then sustained and decisive move to exit (going straight from the protection is recommended, to the right the rock is loose)

54. SELVATICA 6a 25m Fantastic water drops, exit needs guile

CIAO PÀ 6b 30m Small slightly strenuous pillar, then technical and good footwork makes the difference…

56. IL PESCATORE DI MELE 6b+ 25m More sustained than the previous routes, technical move half way, then decisive move and good footwork to exit

57. FOCACCIA E CAFFÈ 6a+ 30m Corner, dirty to start, after a few meters becomes really nice and enjoyable for its genre, technical climbing

58. L’INTENSITÀ 7a 0m Easy start, then difficult intense section, continues on good holds where concentration and endurance are still required

PLACCA PIOTTI

Placca Piotti, Raffaella Cottalorda, Pilastro Marantonio, 6c+ (© A. Costaguta)

Rocca di Perti Settore Centrale

33. MESCAL 6b 20m Second pitch, equipped with bolt hangers and reached from the belay of the second pitch of the Pilastro Josephine; slight overhang, fingery, exits on slab

34. BELIN STATIQUE, JE SUIS CONTENT 7a 20m Second pitch. Technical wall, starts with a powerful finger move, more technical final section

35. ALBA DI GIADA 7a 15m Superb second pitch. Slab with drops and fingery very technical vertical wall (at the base there is a belay to tie into)

36. STRINGIMI FORTE

6c+ 20m Second pitch. Continues from the belay of the second pitch of the Via di tutti; technical arête, sustained on fingers and hard move to exit

37. CARACAS ? 20m Second pitch, equipped with bolt hangers. Slight overhang, the route can be reached only by lowering off from above

38. MANA 8b+ 35m Second pitch; starts from the belay of the first pitch of La Grattugia. Vertical wall, followed by an overhanging tufa and grey wall with drops. Watch out! When lowering off clip into the fixed draws as the route is so overhanging that you cannot get back to the belay terrace.

IL GIARDINO

The Giardino is a very panoramic sector as it is situated in the highest part of the Rocca di Perti. With routes typical from the ‘80s, the crag recaptures the style of those years with climbs that are technical and crimpy in perfect Finale style.

The sector Hard Rock is an excellent crag, situated just below Il Gi ardino, that has amazingly remained untouched until 2022. Originally there were only three routes: “Dacci”, severe 8a+ in finale style, “Bi ancaneve”, and the last route in the section “Elena”. Mauro Carena and Sergio “Geppe” Repetto started work here in February/March 2022 and were later joined by Matteo Felanda and Claudia Giglio. All material was donated by the bolters.

APPROACH

From the Central Sector (see preceding sector) facing the rock face, continue up to the left with respect to the last route reaching a series of 16 iron rungs. Climb these very steep steps reaching the belay for an eliminate pitch on the Simonetta route. Continue for a farther 20 meters reaching the base of the lower sector. Continuing along the path and going uphill the upper sector is reached (2 minutes).

IL GIARDINO LOWER SECTOR (HARD ROCK)

1. PFM 6a+ 15m Short overhang and easy slab to follow

2. BANCO D.M.S. 6c 15m Short pillar with pockets and difficult exit

3. LANEGAN 7a 20m Overhanging section on good holds and technical slab

4. BIANCANEVE 7c+ 22m Technical wall and grey bulge with long moves, very demanding

5. LITTLE WING 7a+ 20m Technical and strenuous corner, sustained

6. DACCI 8a+ 17m Slightly overhanging wall with small holds, Finale style, historic route, RP Klem Loskot in the ‘90s

7. HURT 7c 17m Slightly overhanging wall with small holds, Finale style

8. WODOO CHILD 7b+ 27m Overhang on great rock with small pockets and edges, then easy slab

9. GIVE PEACE A CHANCE 6c+ 20m Overhanging pillar with good holds, strong lock off move

10. RUMORE 6b 20m Evidente diedro/lama atletico su roccia grigia

11. INVISIBLE TOUCH 7b+ 25m First technical slab then overhang with pockets

12. SIMPLY THE BEST 6c+ 22m Obvious corner/flake, strenuous on white rock

13. LA CARROZZA DI HANS ? 25m Technical wall difficult to work out moves then easier slab

14. ELENA 6b 27m Last pitch of the multi-pitch route “Elena”, technical and varied climbing

IL GIARDINO UPPER SECTOR

15. IL QUARTETTO C’ENTRA 5b 13m Very featured slab with pockets and drops, starts in the vegetation and exits with a delicate mantle on slab

16. TRIO L’EX-ANO 5b 15m Short grey leaning arête, slab with pockets and traverse to the right

17. INCAPACE 6a+ 15m Obvious red corner-crack with slightly overhanging exit and boulder move

18. LIBERA LA VITA 6c 14m Obvious crack going diagonally right on red rock, continues on pockets, fingery and powerful, with sustained exit in slight overhang

19. …POI CAPACE 8b 14m Slight overhang, very technical, fingers on slopers and small pockets

20. ALL’INCOMINCIO… 8a+ 14m Slight overhang on dark grey rock with drops with two singles, one at the start and one at the exit, fingers

21. MEMO 6b 16m Obvious crack with large pockets, followed by an overhanging corner and exits on a white flake

NOEMI

with

with more technical move

slab with technical move to start,

by more featured rock in the

immediately onto a dirt

the first featured section continues

right and then vertically towards a crack

Grey slab, more featured towards the end

GROTTINO DEL BRIC DELLA CROCE

Zambaland, Lorenzo Fornaro, Il dolore è adesso, 8b (© Miriam Nan)

Tre Frati, Victoria Lavricheva, Mitternacht, 6a+ (© Roberto Franco)

CUCCO AL MASSIMO

CUCCO IN ALTO

SAUTA

LA MODIFICA

VIA G. FLAMINIO

24. CLIMBING QUEEN

25. LECCA LECCA

Hard sequence on overhanging arête,

move on small holds in overhang and difficult aleatory slab

Two hard sections, the second easier,

by an excellent rest

Intense arête followed by slab with small

Dyno move half way then sustained

Boulder move to start, then sustained (unstable flakes)

Old route equipped with insecure pegs, a wooden plaque signs the start

Slightly overhanging sequence on painful two finger pockets and edges

Perfect bulge, the first part is very slightly overhanging on small and widely spaced

continues with a long and complicated sequence on slab that becomes leaning

26. IO SONO PRONTO

P1 5c 15m Easy crack

P2 8a+ 15m Vertical and technical wall followed by aleatory sequence

27. L’ETÀ DELLA RAGIONE 8a 35m Fantastic pitch, one of the best pitches in Finale; slab where need to move well and sustained on always positive holds with difficult sequence on mono

28. TIRO A CANESTRO ? 30m Long easy section, then hard sequence on vertical wall with very severe obligatory move

29. IL VERDON PUÒ ATTENDERE 8a 30m Fantastic infinite slab, sustained on fingers on small holds

30. FUORI È BUIO

P1 5c 15m Easy leaning slab

P2 ? 30m Very hard slab with a very difficult sequence between the fourth and fifth bolt

31. BONBON RAPIDE 8a 20m Vertical wall with difficult boulder move to start and various traps before the chain

Cucco Grottone, Francesco Agnolucci, Re di chia, 8b (© Elena Levati)

Rian Cornei Antro delle Streghe

31. SOLO PER BOULDERISTI 6c 10m First mantle on mono, rest and long move (FACENDO IL PASSO IN CATENA) from undercling to hidden hold

32. TUTTA COLPA DEL PARADISO 7a 10m Overhang, roof and final mantle

33. IL POMPIERE SPOMPO 6b+ 10m Very marked overhang, sustained on red rock and good holds, technical exit with long moves and final move for fingers

34. FRATELLI SPUTAKIERA 6b 10m Overhang on good but hidden holds

35. SKULL 6b 10m Easy overhang with final move on small pockets

36. BESUGA 5c 12m Stepped ramp and small niche to start, then technical on pockets an easy slab, exits on wide and comfortable ledge

37. BABOLLO 4c 13m Vertical but easy start on very featured rock, after a large sloper a small leaning arête then wide and comfortable ledge

38. BUDEGO 5b 14m Stepped slab to start, then leaning slab with small pockets and exits on wide and comfortable ledge

39. NORMA ADVENTURE 6a+ 14m Leaning slab with good holds, rest and then overhanging arch to the left

40. AMMAINA 5c 14m Strenuous start, slab and strenuous finish with sustained difficulty

41. 40 ANNI 6a 14m Vertical wall on black rock, rest and final small overhang

42. LASCIA PERDERE 6c+ 14m Technical slab for feet with small pockets for the hands

43. NEVE IN VAL CORNEI 6a+ 12m Nice technical slab with final move to exit roof

44. MONTAGNINA 5c 12m Alpine style route on pillar done in various ways

45. MICIUSS UN DITO 5b 10m Initial bulge, then crack on leaning slab 46. VIA DAFFO 5a 10m Vertical start and continues on leaning slab to the left

47. NO FEAR 5a 10m Very leaning slab with tricky move to reach belay

48. TAH-DAH 5a 10m Very leaning slab to start then steeper in final section

Antro delle Streghe, Costanza Conti, Dreamer, 7a (© Roberto Franco)

Valle di Rian Cornei Antro delle

ANTRO DELLE STREGHE (PLACCHE SECTOR)

49. YUNA 5b 12m Technical slab never precarious

50. AMICA MUCCA 6b 12m Nice slab with small pockets, use of feet decisive!

51. VIA ACCOGLIENTE 6b 12m Technical slab with long move on good holds

52. QUINTO PIU’ STORICO 6a 12m Technical slab on small pockets, good footwork required!

53. CLA 5b 10m Mantle to start in crack, continues on very easy slab

54. CLO 5c 10m Technical arête… never as simple as it looks

55. VIA SIL 5b 10m Leaning slab with final move to exit on small roof

56. GRUPPO SABOTATORI 5c 14m Strenuous crack, rest, slab and final move to exit on small roof

57. LA PAZIENZA DI JO 5c+ 14m Strenuous crack, rest and leaning slab with balance move, homogenous climbing

58. LO ZOO DI ZOE 5c+ 14m Technical and fingery arête followed by a nice slab for feet

59. MOLLICCIO 6c 14m Low lockoff on good hold to exit from small overhang, then easy slab

60. BASANOTTO 7a 14m Technical arête with difficult placing followed by slab with good holds

61. BIGO SUPERMACHINE 5c 14m Strenuous move to start, corner and homogeneous slab

62. QUATTRO ARTI USATI A CASO 6a+ 14m Nice leaning slab with final technical surprise

63. PANORAMA SU CORNEI 5b 1 0m Right hand arête, then left hand arête and final panoramic slab

64. SI SENTE ARIA 5c+ 10m Left hand arête and nice exposed leaning slab for feet

Antro delle Streghe, Emanuela Olcese, Io no ci volevo venire, 5c (© Andrea Costaguta)

6. NAZCA

7. TOPO GNAM GNAM

8. PILIER MONTEZUMA

with pockets that get rarer and smaller, from half way things get more complicated with small pockets and water drops getting farther and farther apart

with pockets that get rarer higher up, half

there is a strenuous move on water drops,

and strenuous exit on réglettes (continuing becomes 6c)

27m Wall with good holds until half way, then delicate slab, continues on wall that leads to corner, and then on a pillar with a balance move and final slab

28m

leaning slab with pockets, followed by wall with good holds until half way where there

a strenuous move on small pockets and mantle. Move to the right of the pillar for the

delicate move on crack and water drops, then small roof and slab to exit

STRAPATENTE SETTORE GOCCE DOC

Strapatente sett. Gocce Doc, Wafaa Amer, Nazca, 6a+ (© M. Tomassini)

PRIMO E SECONDO PILASTRO

altitude orientation beauty equipment

A sector discovered in 1979 by Alessandro Grillo and Vittorio Simone tti, who equipped the superb traverse In sciö bolezùmme (from Geno ese dialect, it is pronounced In sciu bulesumme) and it was then en larged, at the start of the ‘90s, by Alessandro who equipped Cinecittà. Many years passed before the sector was completed, and it was Ful vio Balbi, a very active bolter at that time, who in 1996, had this hon our taking the number of routes to 12.

The crag is on a cliff above the sea, I pilastri are characterised by a superb wall of outstanding limestone of the Val Tanarello-Malm (Piedmont). The routes are generally easy and climb fantastic rock with many features. We recommend top roping, as the ledges below are very narrow or totally non-existent.

The routes are south facing apart from Le superchicche and Lo sbirro that are east facing.

APPROACH

From the Dancing Dalle (page 780) sector, continue towards Savona for 450 meters. Then note, on the right and behind the guardrail, a dirt widening delimited on one side by a low wall and on the other by rock (Pilatro 1). For the Pilastro 2, continue a short distance along the coast road arriving at another widening with a low wall and a railing, climbing over these, you reach this sector.

With regard to parking, we recommend that you use the Dancing Dalle parking area, situated about 500 meters before; the parking area is farther away but there is much more space.

Otherwise, continuing for another 150 meters after the Pilastro 2

PILASTRO 1

To reach routes nos. 1 and 2 it is necessary to descend, being very careful not to slip, for a few meters along a rock ramp with gravel on it situated a few meters after the road sign indicating the road narrows and there are a series of turns coming up on the coast road (going in the direction of Savona).

The upper belay of these two pitches is equipped with two old pegs and a glued turnbuckle end that is rusty: being as both the lower belays do not possess a ledge, and the belay for route no. 1 is totally rusty, we recommend only doing these routes on top-rope.

To reach the belay (shared) of routes no. 3, 4, 5 and 6 you have to go up several meters along an easy leaning slab coming to the edge of the cliff where, on the side facing the sea, there are four glued bolts: the place where you have to go up is easily recognisable as there is an old rusty bolt hanger on the side facing the road that is visible from the road.

The lower belays of routes no. 3 and 4, equipped with only one glued bolt, are very uncomfortable as they are in the middle of a vertical wall without any ledge.

of visitors

parking

The route Lo sbirro has two lower belays, one at 20 meters and the other 24 meters, both with comfortable ledges. To reach the start of the traverse In sciö bolezùmme an abseil is necessary from the be lay of the route Lo Sbirro, start climbing travers ing to the right (grade II) for about 10 meters re maining a few meters above sea level, and after the rock arch beneath the road, reach a short wall where there is a bolt hanger from where the traverse starts. The traverse has 14 pitches, equipped with stainless steel bolt hangers, with the hardest grade 6a. The difficulty of the pitch

es becomes gradually less pitch-by-pitch, even though, about half way there is a 6a pitch. There are various places where the traverse can be abandoned, either corresponding to the bolted routes (of the sector Pilsatro 2) or further on, on very easy terrain that is however not equipped. The exit from the traverse is found behind one of the characteristic bends on the coast road called “curva del leone”, the name is due to the form of the rock that, viewed from the side, resembles a lion’s head. The “curva del leone” is at road level on the sea-side of the road and so is easily visible coming from both directions.

Primo pilastro, Annette Gratland, Lo Sbirro, 5a (© Roberto Franco)

FINALE LIGURE