SKI MOUNTAINEERING in the AOSTA VALLEY by Versante Sud srl

DEBORAH BIONAZ – ILARIA SONATORE

SKI MOUNTAINEERING in the AOSTA VALLEY

101 ITINERARIES: from the super classics to the most sought after

Monte Blanc / Rutor / Gran Paradiso / Champorcher / Matterhorn – Monte Rosa / Coumba Freida / Central Valley

First edition November 2024

ISBN 978 88 55471 480

All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image Climbing towards Aiguille de Lesache © Ilaria Sonatore

Text Deborah Bionaz, Ilaria Sonatore

Photos Deborah Bionaz, Ilaria Sonatore

English translation Alexandra Ercolani

Maps Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout Francesco Rioda

Printing

Tipolitografia Pagani – Passirano (BS), Italy

ZEROmiles

This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

ZERO miles!

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced!

It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote skiing in the area reviewed.

Skiers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” tours – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in exploring new itineraries

Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review with a local attention to the territory – they pay attention in the same way to any different tours

– they meaningfully interact with local actors

Note

Ski-mountaineering is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

SKI MOUNTAINEERING in the AOSTA VALLEY

101 ITINERARIES: from the super classics to the most sought after

DEBORAH BIONAZ - ILARIA SONATORE

30. Testa del Rutor

Colle Gollien

Cima di Entrelor

36. Becca Tsambeina

Gran Vaudala

Punta Galisia

Punta Calabre

Granta Parei

Grand Etret

Gran Paradiso

Colle Grand Neyron (ex Biv. Sberna)

44. Grand Sertz

45. Colle della Rossa

46. Gran San Pietro

Punta di Leppe

Punta Tersiva

Gran Paradiso Traverse

50. Colle Laris

51. Mont Rascias

52. Mont Glacier

MATTERHORN - MONTE ROSA SECTOR ..

53. Passo della Civera

54. Passo della Coppa ...............

55. Punta Giordani

56. Piramide Vincent .

57. P.ta Gnifetti and P.ta Zumstein

58. Punta Palasinaz

59. Corno Bussola

60. Gran Cima

61. Becca di Nana

62. Monte Facciabella

63. Becca Trecaré

64. Petit Tournalin

65. Mont Roisetta

66. Château des Dames

67. Breithorn Occidentale and Centrale

68. Castore

69. Punta Paglietta 370

70. Mont Fallère Parete Nord 374

71. Mont Flassin 378

72. Mont Vertosan 384

73. Punta Valletta 390

74. Testa di Crévacol 394

75. Cresta di Corléans - North Couloir 398

76. Col Serena 402

77. Costa di Serena 408

78. Grand Golliaz - Colle di St. Rhemy 412

79. Aiguille de Lesache 416

80. Mont Fourchon 422

81. Tête Blanche de By 426

82. Tête du Filon 430

83. Bec Noir 434

84. Mont Gelé 438

85. Trouma des Boucs 442

86. Noeud de la Rayette 446

87. Col de la Tsa ....................

88. Becca di Luseney 456

89. Château des Dames - Col du Créton 460

90. Becca d’Oren 468

d’Hérens

Col Charbonnière

Pointe de la Pierre

Becca di Nona 490 95. Punta Leysser 494 96. Mont Rouge 498

97. Mont Fallère South Face 502

98. Tour of the Cols in Val ClavalitéColle di Moutsaillon and Colle di Fénis 506

99. Costa di Champorcher 514

100. Col Chaleby 520 101. Monte Zerbion 524

Lucianaz

General map

Alagna Valsesia

Gaby-Chef Lieu Saint-

Oyace

TAKE EMOTION TO ANOTHER LEVEL

Grading system

SKI DIFFICULTY OF DESCENT

MS / MSA Easy terrain. Wide slopes or sparse woods; with a gradient of <30˚ and with contained vertical height gain (800m). The exposure to avalanche risk is limited. The quality of the snow is a determining factor in creating any difficulties.

BS / BSA Terrain does not have many technical difficulties. The slopes are steeper and more uneven, with gradients of <35˚. The vertical height gain and exposure can be important (vertical height gain >800m). Good skiing technique is required as well as good ability in assessing the snowpack’s stability.

OS / OSA Technical terrain. Technical sections and couloirs, slopes of 35˚ which can be very long and short sections of 40/45˚. The exposure and eventual objective dangers can be significant. Excellent skiing technique is required and excellent ability to assess the snowpack’s stability is necessary.

EUROPEAN AVALANCHE HAZARD SCALE

SCALE OF HAZARD SNOWPACK STABILITY

LOW

MODERATE

CONSIDERABLE

HIGH

The snowpack is well bonded and stable in general.

The snowpack is only moderately well bonded on some steep slopes*; otherwise well bonded in general.

The snowpack is moderately to poorly bonded on many steep slopes*.

The snowpack is poorly bonded on most steep slopes*.

The snowpack is poorly bonded and largely unstable in general.

LIKELIHOOD OF TRIGGERING

Triggering is generally possible only from high additional loads** in isolated areas of very steep, extreme terrain***. Only small and medium natural avalanches are possible.

Triggering is possible, primarily from high additional loads**, particularly on the indicated steep slopes*. Very large natural avalanches are unlikely.

Triggering is possible, even from low additional loads**, particularly on the indicated steep slopes*. In certain situations some large, and in isolated cases very large natural avalanches are possible.

Triggering is likely, even from low additional loads**, on many steep slopes*. In some cases, numerous large and often very large natural avalanches can be expected.

Numerous very large and often extremely large natural avalanches can be expected, even on moderately steep terrain*.

INDICATIONS TO SKIERS AND MOUNTAINEERS

Generally favourable conditions for ski-trips.

Favourable conditions for ski-trips but it’s required to adequately consider local dangerous zones.

The possibility of ski trips is limited and a good ability of assessing the local conditions is required.

The possibility of ski trips is very limited and a very good ability of assessing the local conditions is required.

Ski trips are generally impossible.

The avalanche-prone locations are described in greater detail in the avalanche bulletin (altitude, slope aspect, type of terrain).

* Moderately steep terrain: slopes shallower than about 30 degrees

* Steep slopes: slopes steeper than about 30 degrees.

** Low additional load: individual skier / snowboarder, riding softly, not falling; snowshoer; group with good spacing (minimum 10m) keeping distances.

** High additional load: two or more skiers / snowboarders etc. without good spacing (or without intervals); snowmachine; explosives.

*** Very steep, extreme terrain: particularly adverse terrain related to slope angle (more than about 40 degrees), terrain profile, proximity to ridge, smoothness of underlying ground surface.

DECISION MAKING EVALUATION FACTORS

CHUMAN FACTOR

• Carefully assess who is part of the group and what their type of experience is, their technical abilities, physical preparation and psychological conditions.

• Carefully evaluate the itineraries chosen on the base of the weakest person’s abilities both technically and physically.

• Find the people with the most experience to share choices and responsabilities.

• Check the actual composition of the starting group, and eventually the presence of other groups.

• Check every single person’s gear, with special attention to everyone’s self-rescue gear.

• Do a transceiver test

• Create small, autonomous groups with a “leader” for each group.

• During the itinerary check if the time taken while heading uphill is the same as the actual time scheduled for each point.

• Make sure that the group keeps to the basic rules of discipline, especially in presence of dangerous situations.

• In regular intervals evaluate the physical and psychological conditions of the group members throughout the tour, especially after stressful situations.

• In case of danger, ski down keeping a safety distance, ski in pre-established corridors and stop above your skiing partners who precede to safety zones.

BTERRAIN

• Find out by using guide books on what itinerary to choose, depending on the season and the period’s snow cover.

• Consult 1:25.000 or 1:50.000 maps

• Draw a sketch of the route

• Assess the itinerary’s gradients in terms of the possible avalanche danger and the technical difficulties

• Find any alternative itineraries

ASNOW-WEATHER CONDITIONS

• Consulting the snow and avalanche bulletins, and assessing weather forecast, snow conditions and avalanche danger.

• Collecting information from local experts, such as mountain guides, tourist offices, mountain hut wardens etc helps complete the picture, as well as finding information from the web (with a critical spirit!).

1Regional Planning the itinerary beforehand, evaluating any alternatives.

• Orient yourself in terms of the topographic map and the sketch of the route, sharing all information with the other members of the tour.

• Assess the actual meteorological conditions, even in terms of the weather forecast read previously.

• Find the “macro-track” on situ assessing the general conditions of the snow and the danger along the chosen route

• Find the areas of potential avalanche release such as couloirs, slopes below ridges, cornices, open slopes, clearings, etc.

• Find the sources of other eventual dangers such as rock steps, ice falls, seracs, crevassed areas etc.

• Evaluate the actual amount of snow on the ground, of fresh snow and the general conditions of avalanche danger in the area of the itinerary.

• Collect extra information by local people and other ski-mountaineers returning from that tour.

2Zone specific Detailed evaluation on situ of avalanche risk and conditions of the surrounding environment: eventually change the itinerary’s destination

• In detail assess the steep slope’s gradients using your ski pole or an inclinometer (critical gradient 25-30˚).

• Throughout the itinerary, at regular intervals, assess the conditions of visibility, wind and temperature.

• Assess the slope’s exposure in terms of the prevailing winds of the previous days and the previous sun irradiation.

• In view of the descent carefully evaluate any variants in terms of future sun irradiation and avalanche danger.

• Evaluate the depth of fresh snow (critical level 20,30cm) and the characteristics of the snowpack (snow grains bonding, snow consolidation, or “whumpf” in the snowpack, weak layers or sliding top layers).

3Local Assessment of the single slope throughout the tour, and eventually adopt the ideal measures required to avoid any risk to the group.

• Eventually if you evaluate that there is a possible situation of danger, assess the snowpack’s stability carrying out quick tests using a ski pole or shovel.

Symbols

Orientation

Indicates the main direction of the ascending and descending slopes during the itinerary.

Difficulty

Indicates the skiing difficulty downhill. See table Difficulty of the Descent on page 10.

Elevation gain

Total vertical height gain of ascent and of descent.

Best period

This indicates the ideal period in which the itinerary can be carried out.

Backup points

This indicates mountain huts, bivouacs or points of interest which are present along the itinerary.

qr-parking

Scan the QR code with your smartphone to reach the car park.

NB. The authors do not accept any responsability for any variations in the description of the accesses for each itinerary’s starting point due to force majeur. We recommend you carefully read the description of each access for each itinerary.

materiale consigliato

In the description on the recommended equipment to bring on tours, we have often used the acronym “s.m.e.” which stands for “standard mountaineering equipment” i.e. rope, ice axe, crampons, and gear for progressing across glaciers.

INTERNATIONAL GROUND TO AIR RESCUE SIGNALS FOR HELICOPTERS AND AEROPLANES

Ferrate delle Guide, Introbio (© G. Meneghello)

Foreword

During the 80s, when my father felt like skiing, choosing a tour was very simple. He would step out of the house (he lived near Aosta, at 600m a.s.l!), climb up through the woods and ski in powder snow. Now at an altitude of 600 metres it is not possible to ski, but sometimes it is difficult to do so even at 1000 metres altitude or even two thousand metres. Over the last thirty years the climate has changed very rapidly and consequently even ski-mountaineering has too. Unfortunately now it is no longer enough to walk out of your house and choose any slope to skin up and ski down. The scarce snow forces us to be a lot more informed and careful on where we choose to go.

This guide book offers you a tool to move across the mountains of the Aosta Valley and discover their beauty, page after page. It is a selection of more than one hundred itineraries that obviously makes no claim to be complete and thorough. There are many ski-mountaineering opportunities in Aosta Valley and every itinerary described here can offer endless variants. Our selection

tries to include the entire territory of this region and describes itineraries for all levels and tastes, from the great classics to hidden gems. We could have chosen to describe another thousand itineraries, but after all it is rather pleasant not to talk about everything and leave you the pleasure of discovering new hidden corners. The method we chose to use, and we hope it will help you best find your way across our wonderful territory, was to divide the itineraries into seven macro-areas inside the region. We purposely tried to avoid the itineraries which use groomed ski slopes or the use of cable cars except for very few isolated cases as is in the Monte Rosa area.

Our journey across the Aosta Valley sets off from the Mont Blanc area and continues anticlockwise across the Rutor group, the Gran Paradiso and Champorcher valleys. Then it goes from the Monte Rosa massif, and continues to the feet of the Matterhorn reaching Coumba Freida, with the valleys of Gran San Bernardo, Bionaz and Valpelline. To this we have added a bonus sec-

© P. Lucianaz

tor which describes the itineraries which set off from the central valley.

Each sector opens up with a short morphological introduction which briefly describes the area’s characteristics. Each itinerary includes a description of the route, the access, a few notes to better put into context the type of itinerary it is. Photographs are included as well as a section of the map with the route’s tracks and a legend with technical indications such as vertical height gain and difficulty. It is important to mention that all these indications are our personal suggestions and not strict rules to abide by. We therefore do not exclude that some people might not agree on some of our evaluations and above all we would like to remind everyone the importance to be fully aware of one’s ability and to be vigilant at all times. Snow is an ephemeral element in continuous evolution, therefore this guide book can only be an indication that must be supported with an accurate assessment of conditions, weather, snowpack and one’s state of fitness. In a few words, ski-mountaineers, enjoy the powder but look out!

We would like to highlight the fact that each itinerary described was tackled by both authors (or at least one of the two) during the period included between December 2022 and June 2024.

Due to the variable conditions of the snow conditions probably not all itineraries can be carried out every year and maybe during some years of scarce precipitation some won’t even see any snow. However, we suggest to take them all into consideration, and when there is snow, make the most of it and explore those areas which are least affected by precipitation: they will offer amazing skiing!

One last consideration. Throughout our pilgrimages across the peaks of the Aosta valley we witnessed a bizarre phenomenon: it is easier to meet hordes of ski-mountaineers chomping at the bit during November and December, while during April-May, when the ski-mountaineering season is at its peak, you will not see anyone on the mountains. We understand the excitement of putting your skis on as soon as there is a little bit of white on the peaks but springtime should not be ignored…in fact quite the opposite! It is the best season for ski-mountaineering and all this rambling on is simply to tell you to enjoy yourself, don’t hurt yourself, explore, do not churn the slopes up and leave some powder for others too, ski hard but above all enjoy yourselves! In writing this guide book we have definitely done so!

Deborah Bionaz

Snow and avalanches

Ski-mountaineering requires one essential element, and that is snow. Snow is not a static element, but a material which can change shape and be compressed. It can change its structure depending on temperature variations, and the action of wind and sun rays. Each time it snows a layer with physical and mechanical characteristics lies on top of the previous later. Together all these layers form the snow pack. If you can imagine this collection of elements in a complex and featured morphological context typical of mountains, with varying gradients and orientations, it is easy to imagine how many variables are at play, and what the possible consequences are. It is a bit like placing a layered cake on an incline, then varying the temperatures for example, or progressively adding layers to it. One of the consequences of the stress the snow pack undergoes is the formation of avalanches, and that is the release of snow of small or large dimensions down an inclined surface. Avalanches make up one of the main risks for those who carry out ski-mountaineering as an activity. For this reason it is fundamental to use all possible precautions to minimize the risk of being caught in an avalanche. Among these it is fundamental to:

- be informed on current and previous meteorological and snow conditions;

- learn to observe the itinerary’s morphology on a wide scale and read the landscape (e.g. presence of exposed sections, snow drift, crevasses.) be aware of temperature variations and solar irradiation along the itinerary;

- be equipped with self-rescue avalanche gear and be aware of how to use it correctly; don’t trust the presence of previous ascent or descent tracks from other skiers, this does not automatically mean it is a safe slope.

Fortunately today there are valuable tools that contribute to informing ski-mountaineering enthusiasts, helping them make the right decisions when choosing an itinerary. The Aosta

Valley’s snow and avalanche report (https:// bollettinovalanghe.regione.vda.it/home) is issued daily by the Snow and Avalanche Office (“Ufficio neve e valanghe del Dipartimento programmazione, Risorse Idriche e Territorio”) in collaboration with the Mountain Safety Foundation (“Fondazione Montagna Sicura”).

The single area can be consulted, and that is a portion of the area in which the snowpack, the current and expected degree of danger are described in the days following the snow and avalanche report has been issued. There are also snow and meteorological indications, descriptions of the most dangerous areas, typical problems associated with avalanches and other parameters which are useful for identifying dangerous situations.

The avalanche report used to assess avalanche danger refers to the Unified European avalanche danger scale drawn up by the Working Group on Avalanche Forecasting and Prevention Services EAWS which “Aineva” is part of.

It should be clear that the scale describes the probability of an avalanche being released in a determined area, but not the risk involved. The term “danger” defines the probability of a determined phenomenon (in our case an avalanche) from occurring, but this does not imply that the event will occur or when it could potentially happen.

Another tool which can be used is the “Meteo 3R” smartphone application, a collaboration between the Aosta Valley, Liguria and Piedmont regions. It collects data on snowfall, wind humidity and rainfall from more than 650 weather stations located in the three regions and provides a good basis for understanding and monitoring the evolution of weather and snow conditions in the referred areas.

Some of the itineraries in this guide book enter areas which border with France and Switzerland. Consequently to evaluate the snow

and meteorological conditions in the best possible way it would be better to take a look at the French and Swiss reports, since they can give extra information on the conditions on the mountains which lie on the border.

- https://meteofrance.com/meteo-montagne

- https://www.slf.ch/it/bollettino-valanghe-e-situazione-nivologica.html#pericolovalanghe.

As well as taking precautions to avoid being caught in an avalanche, it is essential to have a good knowledge on how to operate your self

rescue gear (avalanche transceiver, probe and shovel) and to be able to handle a situation in which other people are involved in an avalanche. It is also advisable to include the following numbers among your phone’s emergency numbers:

- Emergency number valid across Europe 112

- Central Office Aosta Valley Mountain Rescue (Centrale unica del Soccorso Alpino Valdostano) 800800319

- French Mountain Rescue (Soccorso Alpino Francia) - Chamonix (PGHM) 0450531689

- Swiss Mountain Rescue (Rega) 1414

© I. Sonatore 

Lucianaz

Mont Blanc Sector

This chapter includes the areas and the valleys in the Aosta valley which are near Mont Blanc along the western alpine ridge. Val Veny and Val Ferret are included in this chapter and they lie at the feet of the Mont Blanc massif in the municipality of Courmayeur and the sector of Planaval which lies between the communes of Morgex and La Salle. These areas do not only share a common geographic denominator, but also have well defined and very similar meteorological characteristics. All of them for example experience low pressure cyclones from the Atlantic which hit the Aosta Valley territory. If the low pressure cyclones during winter come in from the west to the north-west usually quite a decent amount of snow falls. On the contrary, if the precipitation comes from south east, these areas will receive a marginal amount of snow.

In terms of accessibility, Val Veny’s road is shut to traffic during the winter season until late spring time, check in advance if the road is open. The same thing goes for Val Ferret, even if in this case the access to Loc. Plampincieux and the presence of the cross country slopes up to Lavachey make the approach easier. Instead, the Planaval valley is accessible along a dirt road, usually without snow since there is a restaurant at the end of the road, but in any case it is best to drive up with adequate vehicles.

01. Col Fetita and Testa dei Frà

Tête entre deux Sauts

FUN FACT...

Mont Blanc was once called “Mont Maudit”, since evil spirits used to live there. Legend has it that a mysterious traveller was welcomed by the inhabitants of an old historic village in Valdigne, they were constantly suffering from persecution by demons and evil spirits. He promised to intercede with God to deliver them from evil. And behold, snow began to fall abundantly on the mountain, covering it with a thick, white blanket that froze and imprisoned the evil spirits forever. From that day, the mountain changed its name to Mont Blanc.

COL FETITA & TESTA DEI FRÀ

2557m and 2818m

SOUTH-WEST

842m / 1103m

Dec-Apr

In this area these itineraries are very popular and busy, since they do not offer any technical difficulties along the route, and make it possible to fully enjoy the view over the surrounding valleys and its majesty Mont Blanc. The best solution is to tackle this ascent after a snowfall to fully enjoy the slopes and the woods below without it being too busy. If this is not possible be prepared to ski down churned up snow by the many skiers. Keep away solitary souls.

Deborah with Mont Blanc’s summit in the background

(© I. Sonatore)

Mont de la Varise  3006  2744

Pic de la Varise

Tête Noire  2894

Bec d’Aouille 2532   2769

Fenêtre de Sereina 2547 2710 

Tête de Sereina  2830

Lac de Sereina

Tête des Fra  2818

des Ors

Col Fetita 2557

Morge

Piginière Grassey Planaval

Dèsot Ors Damon Plan Beillard

Les Places  2623 Punta Fetita

Col Boromein 2319  2442

EQUIPMENT. Standard ski-mountaineering gear.

STARTING POINT. Parking above Morge 1715m, La Salle.

ACCESS. From the motorway exit at Aosta Ovest drive along the state road SS26 towards Courmayeur. At the roundabout entering La Salle deviate towards the main town, drive across La Salle and continue towards Morge. Drive along a series of hair pin bends and reach Morge. Large car park after the junction for Planaval 1715m.

Cheverel

Lacs de Dziule

Praz

Tramail

Along the last and most exposed section of the gully, depending on the snow pack, a bit of scrambling up rocks might be necessary. Put your skis back on, go round the serac in a north east direction and climb up the slopes aiming towards the bivouac which is visible. Reach the base of the rocky spur on which the bivouac rises, leave your skis and climb up the 30m of fixed ropes until the bivouac’s door.

DESCENT. Down the ascent route, but beware of the time of day you choose to descend, since this is a spring time tour which faces east and runs down slopes which have some exposed sections. Evaluate the more conservative and romantic option of spending a night in the bivvy, enjoying the sunset and tackling the descent the day after with a more stable and compact snowpack. The bivouac has 12 beds, mattresses blankets, pots and pans and electric stovetop, which do not work during winter time, therefore bring a camping stove!

NOTES. This itinerary is very long and has some exposed sections of mountaineering.

21 up a wide gully which gives access to the basin of the Bouc glacier. Aim towards the steep snowy slope on the right, climb up it until you find the final rocks which lead to the peak. This last section, depending on the conditions, is tackled wearing crampons.

DESCENT. Down the ascent route.

NOTES. Check if the road which leads from Bonne to Usellières is open.

GRANDE ROUSSE 3607m

NORTH-WEST

OSA

1822m

Grande Rousse is an amazing itinerary and even if it is near the very busy cima Giasson, it offers hours of complete solitude in a wild environment. It is ideal for those who are prepared both physically and technically. The ascent runs up varied terrain, its vertical height gain and distance are remarkable, it has up and down sections which are very steep. It is therefore best to carefully assess the stability of the snow pack if it has snowed recently. Do not be discouraged by the complexity of this itinerary, since the descent, if you love steep gradients, will repay every drop of sweat shed. In this chapter we even suggest an interesting alternative with more contained difficulties and gradients.

EQUIPMENT. Standard ski-mountaineering gear, s.m.e., ice axe and crampons.

STARTING POINT. Loc. Usellières, Valgrisenche 1785m.

ACCESS. From the motorway toll of Aosta Ovest drive along the state road SS26 towards Courmayeur, going past Villeneuve and Arvier.

Coming out of Arvier deviate to the left towards Valgrisenche and drive up the narrow valley. Go past the main town of Valgrisenche and head towards the hamlet of Bonne. Follow the road which runs along the dam and continues to the end to Usellières 1785m where the road ends. There are many spaces for parking your car on the side of the road near the village. Check if the road which from Bonne leads to Usellières is open, it is usually closed until the beginning of spring time.

ASCENT. From the village of Usellières 1785m head up the slopes in an easterly direction towards alpe Arolla 1909m. Continue along the farm road until you cross a bridge 1946m. From here depending on the snow cover, continue along the road or else cut through the woods until the mountain pastures of Quartier 2124m and Mont Forciaz 2181m. Head into the valley of Invergnan and follow it

Forclaz

di Plontains

Champorcher Sector

We have dedicated a separate chapter to this beautiful and splendid valley, the first valley you find on the left as you enter the Aosta Valley, it is located on the hydrographic right of the Dora Baltea. Even if it does not have important mountain chains like its neighbouring valleys, this valley holds a particular element of charm, which is made up of wild corners and glimpses which all deserve to be discovered.

We would have liked to write a lot more about this beautiful valley, but it partly falls within the Mont Avic Park and is limited by numerous restrictions that severely limit the areas to visit during winter time (while during the summer season the choice is a lot more varied!) So don’t be tempted by the numerous untracked slopes that you will find here and there, but ask in advance if it is possible to visit these areas. We also invite you to respect the indications provided by the park authorities which are given at the following link so as not to disturb the fauna and not to incur in unpleasant sanctions: http://montavic.it/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Mobilità-invernale.pdf

The access to the upper valley of Champorcher (the ones relative to the rifugio Dondena and Miserin) is limited by a road which is closed during the winter season. If one wishes to tackle itineraries in that area it is best to be informed in advance if the road is open or not…or else aim to add an extra 5 kilometres to your approach walk!

Morphologically, the valley of Champorcher is characterised by a very narrow valley floor carved out by the Ayasse torrent, while on the upper section wide meadows and pasture land prevails with open slopes which are ideal for ski-mountaineering.

In terms of snow cover, the valley of Champorcher receives large snowfalls thanks to unstable weather cyclones which come from south-east, usually more frequent during late winter. Unfortunately in recent years this type of bad weather cyclone has become increasingly rare resulting in restricted snow fall over the entire area. However, when it does snow, as happened in March 2024, the Champorcher valley turns into a great playground for passionate skiers dumping metres of snow covering villages, forests and mountains.

50. Colle Laris

51. Mont Rascias

52. Mont Glacier

FUN FACT…

Legend has it that a Roman soldier of Christian faith belonging to the legendary Theban legion, Porciero, found refuge in this remote valley, hence the name Champ Porcier or Saint Porcier, later changed to Champorcher. He escaped a terrible massacre thanks to the protection of the Madonna, whose statue he always carried with him. This same statue was reportedly found by some shepherds on the shores of Lake Misérin at an altitude of 2583m during the 16th century, where the sanctuary dedicated to the Madonna delle Nevi was later built.

BREITHORN Occidentale 4165m

SOUTH

BSA

685m

Nov-Jun

Rifugio Guide del Cervino 3480m

and Centrale

4156m

Breithorn can be considered among the easiest 4000 metre peaks in the Alps and is often frequented both on foot and on skis for the classic “four thousand metre baptism”. In fact the moderate vertical height gain and the vicinity to the ski lifts as well as the reduced technical difficulties make it accessible also to ski-mountaineering beginners. However, the itinerary should not be underestimated since it runs across glacial terrain and the last section of the ice cap is often very icy.

It is possible to reach the top of Breithorn from the beginning of the winter season until late spring if the snow conditions make it possible. In this case we have also added the ascent variant to the Punta Centrale which is not far, since it is always best to have the option of two peaks rather than only one!

EQUIPMENT. Standard ski-mountaineering gear, ice axe and crampons, s.m.e.

STARTING POINT. Loc. Breuil-Cervinia 2000m, Valtournenche.

Breithorn Centrale

3451

Teodulo

Matterhorn (Piccolo Cervino)

PLATEAU ROSA1 GOBBA DI ROLLIN PLATEAU ROSA 2 PLATEAU ROSA 3

Guide del Cervino Testa Grigia 3480

ACCESS. From the state road SS26 level with Chatillon deviate towards Valtournenche Breuil-Cervinia and drive up the valley along the road SR46 until Breuil-Cervinia. Here, take the ski lifts which lead to Plateau Rosà 3480m.

ASCENT. From Plateau Rosà 3480m climb up along the side of the groomed slopes for a few hundred metres towards east, leaving Piccolo Cervino on the left, aiming towards the Breithorn col 3825m. With a wide turn and dropping for a few metres, go around the depression of the Breithorn glacier and head towards the base of the evident ice cap. Climb up the wide slopes on its right

woods towards south west until its limit with the sharp decrease of the gradients. Continue along the same direction and along the valley floor going over hillocks and hollows and aiming towards the evident col 2547m.

DESCENT. Down the ascent route.

SCI ALPINISMO nella VALLE

del GRAN

SAN BERNARDO

ski touring in the valley of Grand Saint Bernard

EQUIPMENT. Standard ski-mountaineering gear, ice axe and crampons, s.m.e.

STARTING POINT. Loc. Diga Place Moulin in the municpality of Bionaz 1970m.

ACCESS. From the Aosta Est motorway toll go through the tunnel which leads to the Gran San Bernardo valley. Level with the town of Gignod, follow signs for Bionaz. Go past the main town and continue along the road which leads to the dam until the evident barrier. Pay and display car park.

ASCENT. Follow the farm road on the orographic right side of the dam which leads to Rifugio Prarayer. It is possible to cycle along this part of the road (approximately 5km) if the road is clear of snow. It is also possible to divide the tour into two days by staying overnight at the rifugio… in any case we highly recommend a stop over to eat something on your way back!

Lucianaz)

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Daniele Bonet

, Guida

alpina & dipendente La Sportiva