■ Procedure 17–4 Crack Repair for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements / 349
■ Procedure 17–5 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancement Removal / 351
■ Procedure 18–1 One-Color Method UV or LED Gel on Tips or Natural Nails with UV or LED Gel Polish / 366
■ Procedure 18–2 Two-Color Method UV or LED Gel on Tips or Natural Nails / 371
■ Procedure 18–3 UV or LED Gel over Forms / 374
■ Procedure 18–4 UV and LED Gel Maintenance / 377
■ Procedure 18–5 UV or LED Gel over Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements with UV or LED Gel Polish / 380
■ Procedure 18–6 UV and LED Gel Removal—Hard Gel / 382
■ Procedure 18–7 UV and LED Gel Removal—Soft Gel or Gel Polishes / 383
■ Procedure 19–1 The French Manicure Using Polish / 406
■ Procedure 19–2 Animal Print Design Using Paint / 408
■ Procedure 19–3 3-D Flower Design Using Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder / 410
■ Procedure 19–4 Confetti Inlaid Design Using UV Gel / 412
■ Procedure 19–5 Crystal Art on Polish Using Embellishments / 414
■ Procedure 19–6 Two-Color Fade or Color Graduation Using an Airbrush / 416
Preface
■ TO THE STUDENT
Congratulations! You have chosen a career lled with unlimited potential, one that can take you in many directions and holds the possibility to make you a con dent, successful professional. As a nail professional, you will play a vital role in the lives of your clients. Your clients will come to rely on you to provide them with ongoing service, helping them to look and feel their best.
According to Nails magazine industry statistics, in 2013, professional nail technicians performed more than 7.5 billion dollars’ worth of manicuring, pedicuring, and nail enhancement services for millions of fashion-conscious clients in the United States. The business of nails continues to progress and grow with new breakthroughs in product technologies, application techniques, and business strategy. The need for educated and competent nail technicians is expanding in the same way. Milady Standard Nail Technology, 7th edition, is the complete rst step to basic nail technology that all professional nail technicians need to kick o their career.
You are fortunate because you will learn from gifted instructors who will share their skills and experiences with you. You will meet other industry professionals at seminars, workshops, and conventions where you will learn the latest techniques, speci c product knowledge, and management procedures. All of the experiences in which you have the opportunity to participate will provide you with additional insights into the profession you have chosen. You will build a network of professionals to turn to for career advice, opportunity, and direction. Whatever direction you choose, we wish you a successful and enjoyable journey!
■ TO THE INSTRUCTOR
This seventh edition of Milady Standard Nail Technology was prepared with the help of many instructors and professionals. Milady surveyed instructors, practicing nail professionals, and state board o cials from across the United States and received in-depth comments from a host of experts to learn what needed to be changed, added, or deleted from the previous edition.
Milady Standard Nail Technology, 7th edition, contains new and updated information on many subjects, including infection control, product chemistry, manicuring, pedicuring, electric ling, monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements, and UV and LED gels. Chapter 19, The Creative Touch, is loaded with the latest nail art mediums and techniques.
As instructors you asked Milady to make your job easier by aligning overlapping content between Milady Standard Nail Technology and Milady Standard Cosmetology, and we listened! This alignment includes the following chapters: History and Opportunities; Life Skills; Your Professional Image; Communicating for Success; Infection Control: Principles and Practices; General Anatomy and Physiology; Skin Structure, Growth, and Nutrition; Nail Structure and Growth; Nail Disorders and Diseases; The Basics of Chemistry; The Basics of Electricity; Seeking Employment; On the Job, Business Skills; Manicuring; Pedicuring; Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements; and UV Gels. We also listened when you asked for photographs and art that depict nail technicians performing
their work and serving their clients; we conducted a 6-day photo shoot to update more than 230 pieces of art throughout the book, including procedural art.
■ FEATURES OF THIS EDITION
In response to your needs, this exciting new edition of Milady Standard Nail Technology, 7th edition, includes the following features:
• Chapters and Parts. The book is organized into 22 chapters and four parts—making it is very easy to use.
• Full-Color Art. All art is in full color, with brand-new photographs to show you step-by-step procedures for manicuring, pedicuring, tips and wraps, electric ling, monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements, UV gels, and a completely new basic nail art.
• Learning Objectives and Review Questions. Learning objectives provide measurable outcomes-based goals for the students in each chapter. These objectives are reinforced by review questions that assess how well the student has mastered the goals established in the learning objectives.
• Actual Photos of Skin and Nail Disorders and Diseases. Full-color photos are included to help students identify skin and nail disorders and diseases more accurately.
• Client Consultation Guidelines. A complete chapter focuses on client consultation and gives suggestions for identifying and meeting the needs of each individual client.
• Chemical Safety Coverage. A complete chapter is devoted to the important topic of chemical safety in the nail salon. Students will learn to identify the chemicals commonly used in the nail salon, how they can cause harm, how to protect themselves and their clients, and how to read Safety Data Sheets (SDSs) (formerly known as Material Safety Data Sheets [MSDSs]).
• State Licensing Exam Topics. The topics required for state licensing examinations are presented in a complete, easy-to-read fashion.
• Safety Cautions. Highlighted safety cautions alert students to services that include potentially dangerous procedures. These cautions explain how to avoid dangerous situations and how to provide services in a safe, clean environment.
• Tips. These tips provide hints on the most e cient and e ective ways to complete step-by-step procedures and help students improve their nail technology skills.
• Regulatory Agency Alerts. Because state regulations vary, regulatory agency alerts remind students to check with their instructors for speci c regulations in their state.
• Business Tips. These tips help nail technicians improve their business relations to achieve complete customer satisfaction.
• Application Tips. These tips give additional insight to nail technicians as they perform the service procedures.
• Web Resources. Throughout the text, the reader will be directed to a variety of useful and informational Web sites that they can use in and out of school.
■ SUPPLEMENTS FOR THE STUDENT AND INSTRUCTOR
Milady Standard Nail Technology, 7th Edition, features these supplements:
Available Translations
• SPANISH TRANSLATED MILADY STANDARD NAIL TECHNOLOGY CORE TEXTBOOK
o A Spanish translation of the core textbook
• SPANISH STUDY RESOURCE FOR MILADY STANDARD NAIL TECHNOLOGY
o A Spanish translation of the student Workbook and the Exam Review
• VIETNAMESE TRANSLATED STUDY SUMMARY FOR MILADY STANDARD NAIL TECHNOLOGY
o This translated text includes the chapters most requested by nail tech schools with signi cant Vietnamese student populations, including Infection Control; Nail Disorders and Diseases; Nail Structure, Growth, and Nutrition; Manicuring; Pedicuring; Electric Filing; Nail Tips; and Wraps; UV Gels; The Creative Touch (nail art); and the glossary of key terms and de nitions from the core textbook.
o Exam review questions in Vietnamese
Milady Standard Nail Technology Workbook
This interactive workbook provides students with exercises, problems to solve, ideas to think about, and resolutions to create that will engage their interest and contemplative skills. The four-color workbook includes short-answer and short essay questions; sentence completion, matching, de nition, and labeling activities; crossword puzzles; and word review activities. The workbook also includes tips on preparing for the practical exam.
Milady Standard Nail Technology Student Exam Review
This student book of exam reviews contains multiple-choice-type questions similar to those found on state nail technology licensing exams. Questions are arranged in groups under major subject areas.
New Student Supplement: Milady Standard Nail Technology Coursemate
CourseMate is an online tool that combines classroom management with interactive student tools. CourseMate provides instructors with all the reporting tools they need to track student engagement, while students access interactive study tools in a dynamic, online learning environment.
Get Started with Coursemate:
1. Students receive a Printed Access Card that contains a code and instructions for accessing their course.
2. Instructors set up free access to CourseMate through Milady.
3. Through a simple process, instructors set up a unique course key to share with their students that will enable the engagement tracker to begin tracking each student’s activity.
Component 1 Component 2 Component 3
Interactive eBook
Features highlighting, note taking, book marking, and in-text search so that students can immediately jump to the section they need to reference.
Student Learning Pathway
Includes Chapter Preparation, Study Notes, Audio Glossary, Flash Cards, Quizzes, Videos, Crossword Puzzles, and Games. Each of these activities is reported directly to the Engagement Tracker so that the instructor is aware of the student’s progress.
Engagement Tracker
A Web-based reporting and tracking tool that allows the instructor to see each student’s progress across all of the activities. View an individual student’s progress through each of the tools, including time spent and, where applicable, grades and completion percentage. Also, view a class as a whole and immediately identify the students that need help.
Milady Standard Nail Technology Course Management Guide on CD
This step-by-step, simple-to-use course guide has been designed speci cally to help the nail technology instructor set up and operate a successful nail technology training program. It includes:
• Guidelines for starting and implementing a nail technology program
• Detailed lesson plans for each chapter in the book along with a chapter test
• Learning reinforcement ideas or activities that can be implemented in the nail technology classroom
• Answers to review questions at the end of each textbook chapter and answers to the Milady Standard Nail Technology Workbook
• A computerized test bank for instant creation of review tests with answer keys
• An image library that includes all images in the text for use as handouts or in PowerPoint® presentations
Milady Standard Nail Technology Instructor Support Slides
The Instructor Support Slides contain a complete PowerPoint® presentation for every textbook chapter along with a new interactive feature of audio pronunciation for di cult terminology.
Milady Standard Nail Technology DVD Series
This ALL NEW DVD series brings to life complete coverage of the practical applications of the textbook. This series will enhance classroom learning and is essential for remedial work and individual learning.
Instructor Website for Milady Standard Nail Technology
This new instructor Web site contains all the content an instructor needs in one password-protected Web site. The instructor Web site includes the materials found in the following individual products:
• The Course Management Guide on CD
• The Instructor Support Slides
• Answers to the English and Spanish workbooks
About the Authors
■ ALISHA RIMANDO BOTERO
Alisha Rimando Botero is recognized as one of the nail industry’s leading experts in training and education. In her rst 2 years as an educator, she taught classes in over 100 beauty schools and vo-techs across the United States. In her 14 years of experience, Botero’s work has been described as “groundbreaking”; she has been a platform artist and motivational speaker for more than 1,500 promotional and educational events. She has competed in over 100 nail competitions around the globe, winning a World Championship in 2005. Botero has worked with R&D chemists to develop arti cial nail enhancement products, nanotechnology skin care and cuticle treatments, polish collections, and natural nail treatments. One of her innovative product lines was awarded an industry ABBIE for best packaging, and several others have been recognized with readers’ choice awards for best products.
As executive vice president and creative director of Artistic Nail Design, Botero continues to challenge herself and her team to create high-quality products and superior education for the professional nail market.
■ JOHN HALAL
John Halal began his career in the beauty industry as a hairstylist over 43 years ago. He is a licensed cosmetology instructor, a former salon and school owner, and currently the director of education at Tricoci University of Beauty Culture. Halal is an a liate member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) and the treasurer of Beauty Changes Lives (BCL). He is the immediate past president of the American Association of Cosmetology Schools (AACS) and the current president of the Indiana Cosmetology and Barbering Association (ICBA). John is the author of Hair Structure and Chemistry Simpli ed and Milady Hair Care and Product Ingredient Dictionary. He is also a contributor to the Milady Standard Cosmetology Textbook and several other Milady publications. Halal obtained his associate’s degree, with highest distinction, from Indiana University. He is a member of the Golden Key National Honor Society and Alpha Sigma Lambda. He has authored numerous articles on a wide variety of topics and been published in several professional trade magazines. He often travels as a guest speaker to address both professional and consumer groups.
■ MARY ANN KILGORE
Mary Ann Kilgore holds a B.A. in psychology and a M.A. in industrial organizational psychology. She is a licensed cosmetologist. After graduating from high school, she followed her passion for beauty and enrolled in cosmetology school. She opened a full-service salon just 5 years after graduating. With salon ownership experience and over a dozen years of dedication as a hair designer, she can clearly relate to the role of being a manager in a creative industry. Kilgore has a thirst for learning; while working in the salon during the day, she attended college and earned her master’s degree in psychology in 2001. She transitioned her career into a corporate role and still maintained a small clientele.
Photo courtesy of Alisha Rimando Botero Photo courtesy of John Halal
Photo courtesy of Mike Steele
With more than 15 years of training development and facilitation experience, Kilgore has designed and delivered a wide range of learning solutions for teams in areas such as finance, human resources, customer service, operations, manufacturing, and the beauty industry. She has also managed a team of beauty consultants in a leading retail beauty store. She now holds a position as a salon consultant for a national beauty product company and works as a nail technologist.
■ JIM MCCONNELL
Jim McConnell received his B.S. in chemistry from the University of Oregon in 1986. He has been a chemist in the eld of polymers since 1988. After graduating from the University of Oregon, he worked as a catalytic chemist in the petroleum industry and as a urethane and epoxy chemist in the wood products, concrete coating, and steel coating industries for 12 years. He and his wife, Lezlie, founded McConnell Labs, Inc., in 1998, making Light Elegance Nail Products for their salon in Eugene, Oregon. They soon began selling the UV gel products internationally. McConnell has contributed to numerous nail technology magazines around the world to answer questions, contribute chemistry, and explain UV light technology. He has served on the board of various committees for SSPC (Steel Structures Painting Council) and NACE (National Association of Corrosion Engineers).
■ JANET MCCORMICK, MS, CIDESCO
Janet McCormick is a licensed and experienced esthetician and manicurist, a sought-after trainer, a former spa director, and the former owner of successful salons. The author of three books, she has also contributed chapters to the industry’s leading textbooks for two specialties and written hundreds of highly respected articles in the beauty industry trade magazines. McCormick is co-owner of Medinail Learning Center, which provides two certi cations—the Advanced Nail Technician certi cation program for salonbased nail technicians and the Medical Nail Technician certi cation, a program to prepare nail technicians to work in podiatry o ces. She is also owner of Spa Techniques, a consulting and training rm, and writes under that banner.
■ VICKI PETERS
As a nail technician, Vicki Peters has wowed the industry with her championship nails. As a cover artist and author, her work has been published worldwide more than any other tech in the history of the nail business. As an educator, she has trained techs from Russia, Germany, Japan, Ireland, the United Kingdom, Canada, Mexico, Africa, Australia, and the United States. As an industry leader, she has mentored thousands and pioneered the industry to new levels. Peters is a 31-year veteran nail technician, past competition champion, judge and competition director, technical educator, and featured business speaker. She is also author of the Milady Nails Q&A Book, Drilltalk, The Competitive Edge, and Novartis’ Nail Healthy Guide. Her nail artistry has been on the covers of TV Guide, Dayspa, Nails, Nailpro, Nailpro Europe, and numerous fashion magazines. Her expertise in the nail business ranges from salon work and hands-on technical experience to R&D, education, and lecturing worldwide.
Photo courtesy of Jim McConnell, McConnell Labs, Inc.
Photo courtesy of Janet McCormick, MS, Nail Technician, Esthetician and Author, Frostproof, FL
Photo courtesy of Vicki Peters
■ DOUGLAS SCHOON
Doug Schoon has over 30 years of experience as a research scientist, international lecturer, author, and educator; he has become a recognized authority in the professional beauty industry. He led Creative Nail Design’s (CND) research and development program for 19 years, and for the last 6 years has been president of his own consulting rm, Schoon Scienti c. He works as a strong advocate for salon safety and represents the professional nail industry on scienti c and technical issues in the United States, Europe, Canada, Australia, and Japan.
Schoon is the author of several books and video and audio training programs as well as hundreds of articles about salon chemicals, chemical safety, and disinfection. As a writer and speaker, he is applauded for his ability to make complex theories and concepts seem interesting and easy to understand. His latest book, Nail Structure & Product Chemistry, Second Edition, Cengage Learning, is also considered an excellent resource for nail professionals. Currently, Schoon is a co-chair of the Nail Manufacturers Council (NMC) of the Professional Beauty Association (PBA).
■ JERYL E. SPEAR
Jeryl Spear is a veteran stylist and previous salon owner who perfected her craft over a 20-year stint in the beauty business. After spending 4 years as executive editor of Beauty Launchpad, in 2011 Jeryl became the editor in chief and creative director of HOT beauty magazine, a leading trade publication (print and digital) that focuses on all specialties within the professional-beauty industry (http://www.hot.hairshow.us).
■ PREVIOUS EDITION CONTRIBUTORS
DEBORAH BEATTY
JEWELL CUNNINGHAM
CATHERINE M. FRANGIE
LIN HALPERN
LACINDA HEADINGS
NANCY KING HEUPEL
TERRI LUNDBERG
GODFREY F. MIX, D.P.M.
LAURA J. MIX
REBECCA MORAN
JACQUELINE OLIPHANT
SUE ELLEN SCHULTES
Photo courtesy of Doug Schoon
Photo courtesy of Jeryl Spear
Acknowledgments
The Milady sta and the contributors wish to acknowledge the many individuals and organizations who helped shape the seventh edition of Milady Standard Nail Technology. Their input enabled us to produce a book that will be a valuable resource for both students and professionals in the field of nail technology. We extend our sincere thanks and appreciation to all those who contributed to this edition.
■ SPECIAL THANKS TO:
• Entity 1 Gel Technology (http://www.entitybeauty.com)
• Medicool, Inc. (http://www.medicool.com). Special thanks to Steve Wallace for supplying the images of electric bits for Chapter 15.
• KUPA, Inc. (http://www.kupainc.com)
• Josephine (Pina) More for her fantastic job on the photo shoot, her perfect technical skills, and her unwavering energy and professionalism.
• Je Cardarella, president, Aerovex Systems, Inc. for providing the nail salon ventilation equipment.
• Tony VU, nail artist of Bella Moda, Clifton Park, NY, for his extraordinary nail art creations featured throughout the book.
• Danielle Klahr, Inside Out Beauty Consulting, Latham, NY, for applying her professionalism, expertise, and technique knowledge.
• Thom Cammer, makeup artist, Guilderland, NY
• Amy Elizabeth Smith, makeup artist, for her incredible makeup designs on our models.
• Debra Windus, The Burmax Company, Inc., Holtsville, NY, for her tremendous help in gathering all of the supplies for our photo shoot.
• Jean Claude and his team from Jean Paul Day Spa and Hair Salons, Albany, NY (www.jeanpaulspa.com). Jean Claude welcomed the Milady sta for a full day of shooting. Special thanks to Shannon Grady, Kathleen Dewy, Morgan Duke, Ashley Junco, and Debra Beaudoin for all of their assistance.
• The nail art and hand models for their patience and dedication: Shirley Arensberg, Tunika Beard, Kimberly Cardona, Samantha Cook, Stephanie Ferretti, Danielle Klahr, Marchelle Milkes, Greg Rayno, Jr., Patricia Reilly, Bob Resnick, Sheena Salone, Nisha Thomas, and Rosie Vu.
• Bryan Durocher, president, Durocher Enterprises Inc.
• Nails Magazine
• Manx National Heritage
• The Rome Nail Academy
• Catherine Wong, Ecsalonce
• Viv Simmonds, VIVid Nail & Beaute Salon
• Cindy Davis
• Nails made by Massimiliano Braga
• Noble Nails by Louise Callaway
• LCN / Wilde Cosmetics GmbH
• Emilio (http://www.emilio-online.com)
■ SEVENTH EDITION REVIEWERS
Barbara Acello, Innovations in Health Care, Denton, TX
Frances L. Archer, MHSA, the Nail Clinic School of Manicuring, Columbia, SC
Melanie Beachy, Carriage Court Salon, Plain City, OH
Ami Barth, Bellevue, KY
Melinda T. Borrego, Marinello School of Beauty, North Granby, CT
Yota Botsaras, salon owner, Cypress, CA
Suzanne Casabella, NYS-licensed nail technician and esthetician, Coxsackie, NY
Lisa W. Crawford, Bellafonte Academy of Beauty, Maysville, KY
JoAnn DiPrete, Ultronics, Copley, OH
Lauren Gellar, Evergreen Beauty College, Marysville, WA
Shari Golightly, owner/cosmetologist/RCMT/Reiki master, Greeley, CO
Jennifer Hain, Columbia Montour Area Vocational Technical School, Middleburg, PA
John Halal, Honors Beauty College, Inc., Indianapolis, IN
Donna Haynes, Houston Training School, Missouri City, TX
Cindy Heidemann, ABC School of Cosmetology, Esthetics, & Nail Technology, Inc., Lake in the Hills, IL
Meg King, Spa Solas by Meg & Company, Ardmore, PA
Susan Kolar, David Pressley Professional School of Cosmetology, Transitions School of Cosmetology Careers, Armada, MI
Lori Manicho, YourNewSchool, Amlin, OH
Yolanda Matthews, the Cosmetology Connection & Consulting Services, Houston, TX
After completing this chapter, you will be able to:
LO1 Explain the origins of personal beauti cation.
LO2 Discuss the advancements made in nail technology during the twentieth and early twenty- rst centuries.
LO3 List several career opportunities available to a licensed nail technician.
Key Terms
Page number indicates where in the chapter the term is used.
cosmetology / 4
nail technology / 4
Cosmetology is a term used to encompass a broad range of beauty specialties, including hairstyling, nail technology, and esthetics. It is the art and science of beautifying and improving the nails, hair, and skin and the study of cosmetics and their applications. In this text, we will primarily focus on nail technology, which is de ned as “the art and science of beautifying and improving the nails and skin of the hands and feet.”
WHY S T UDY T HE H I STO RY O F BEAU T Y AND N AI L TE C HNOLO GY AND CAREER
OPP O RT UNI T IE S F O R N AI L TE C HNI C IAN S ?
Nail technicians should have a thorough understanding of the history of beauty and nail technology as well as career opportunities available, because:
❱ Knowing the history of your profession can help you predict and understand upcoming trends.
❱ Learning about the many different nail care services will help broaden your offerings or assist you in developing one or more specialties within your practice.
❱ Learning about the many possible career paths will help you see the wide range of opportunities open to nail technicians.
■ A B R I E F HIS TO RY OF COSM ETOLOGY A ND NA IL T ECHNOLOGY
Personal beauti cation dates back to the dawn of history, with each subsequent period contributing new approaches to beautifying the hair, skin, and nails. While scientists and beauty visionaries in the twenty- rst century have made many breakthroughs in beauty products, even they have been heavily in uenced by past uses and achievements.
The Egyptians
The Egyptians were the rst to cultivate beauty in an extravagant fashion and to use cosmetics as part of their personal beauti cation habits, religious ceremonies, and burial preparations. In fact, as early as 3000 B.C., Egyptians used minerals, insects, and berries to create makeup for their eyes, lips, and skin and henna to stain their hair and nails a rich, warm red. In Ancient Egypt and during the Roman Empire, military commanders stained their nails and lips in matching colors before important battles.
Queen Nefertiti (circa 1400 B C ) used a henna paste to stain her nails a deep red, wore lavish makeup designs, and used customblended essential oils as signature scents. Queen Cleopatra (circa 50 B.C.), who preferred a rust-red nail hue, took this dedication to beauty to an entirely new level by erecting a personal cosmetics factory next to the Dead Sea.
The Chinese
History shows that during the Shang Dynasty (1600 B C ), Chinese aristocrats rubbed a tinted mixture of gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg whites onto their nails to turn them crimson or ebony. Throughout the Chou Dynasty (1100 B.C.), gold and silver nails were strictly reserved for royal family mem bers. In fact, during this early period in history, nail tinting was so closely tied to social status that commoners who were caught wearing the royal nail colors faced a punishment of death. Extraordinarily long nails were also a status symbol of the ancient Chinese elite. Some even wore gold, jewel-adorned nail guards to protect against damaging their lengthy symbols of wealth and leisure.
The Greeks
During the Golden Age of Greece (beginning in 500 B.C.), hairstyling became a highly developed art. The ancient Greeks also made lavish use of perfumes and cosmetics in their religious rites, in grooming, and for medicinal purposes. They built elaborate baths and developed excellent methods of dressing the hair and caring for the skin and nails.
Greek soldiers often applied red color their lips and nails red when preparing for battle. Greek women used white lead powder on their faces, kohl on their eyes, and ground cinnabar—a brilliant red mineral that is a chief source of mercury— on their cheeks and lips. Interestingly, these powder and ointment preparations represent the basis of many cosmetic formulations still in use today.
The Romans
Celebrating the power of cosmetics to beautify one’s appearance, Roman philosopher Plautus (254–184 B . C . ) wrote, “A woman without paint is like food without salt.” Roman women used a mixture of chalk and white lead to powder their complexions. They also used hair color to indicate their class status: noblewomen colored their hair red, middle-class women colored their hair blond, and poor women colored their hair black. Both men and women used sheep blood mixed with fat to add color to their nails.
The Middle Ages
The Middle Ages is the period in European history that falls between classical antiquity and the Renaissance, beginning with the downfall of Rome in A.D. 476 and lasting until about 1450. Many tapestries, sculptures, and other artifacts from this period show towering headdresses, intricate hairstyles, and the use of cosmetics on the skin and hair. Women wore colored makeup on their cheeks and lips, but not on their eyes or nails.
The Renaissance
During the Renaissance period (A D 1450–1600), Western civilization made the transition from medieval to modern history. Paintings and written records tell us a great deal about the grooming practices throughout this period. Both men and women wore elaborate clothing and used fragrances and cosmetics, although highly colored preparations for the lips, cheeks, eyes, and nails were discouraged. They may have avoided colored nail cosmetics, but wealthy people manicured their nails. Archeological digs have uncovered cosmetic tools from the Renaissance period, including nail cleaners—some doubling as ear scoops—made of bone or metal in a wide variety of designs.
The Victorian Age
The reign of Queen Victoria of England (A D 1837–1901) was known as the Victorian Age. Fashions in dress and personal grooming were drastically in uenced by the social customs of this austere period in history. To preserve the health and beauty of the skin, women used beauty masks and packs made from honey, eggs, milk, oatmeal, fruits, vegetables, and other natural ingredients. Rather than use cosmetics such as rouges or lip stains, Victorian women pinched their cheeks and bit their lips to induce natural color. Nails were sometimes tinted with red oil and then bu ed with a chamois cloth. LO1
The Twentieth Century
In the early twentieth century, the invention of motion pictures coincided with an abrupt shift in American attitudes. As viewers saw pictures of celebrities with awless complexions, beautiful hairstyles, and manicured nails, the standards of feminine beauty began to change. This era also signaled the onset of industrialization, which brought a new prosperity to the United States. Beauty applications began to follow the trends set by celebrities and society gures.
1901 to 1919
1904: Max Factor began manufacturing and selling makeup to movie stars that wouldn’t cake or crack, even under hot studio lights.
1910: Flowery Manicure Products introduced the rst emery board that is nearly identical to the emery boards used today.
1917: Women massaged commercial powders, pastes, and creams onto their nails and then bu ed them to a gleaming nish. One such polishing paste was Graf’s Hyglo Nail Polish Paste. Some women applied a clear varnish to their nails with a very small camel hair brush.
1920s
The cosmetics industry grew exponentially. Cosmetics advertising in magazines swelled from $2.5 million in 1915 to $25 million in 1925. The total sales of cosmetics and toiletries mushroomed from $8.6 million in 1909, to $33.5 million in 1920.
1930s
In 1932, inspired by a new, opaque paint that was being produced for the automobile industry, Charles Revson marketed the rst successful nail lacquer brand in a variety of colors. This beauty milestone marked a dramatic shift in nail cosmetics, as every woman literally had an array of nail polish colors at her ngertips. Early screen sirens Jean Harlow and Gloria Swanson glamorized this hip new nail lacquer trend by appearing in lms wearing matching polish on their ngers and toes.
1940s
The aerosol can was invented, eventually leading to the marketing of the rst hair sprays in 1948. Shiny lips also came into vogue for the rst time when women began applying petroleum jelly over their lipstick. Nail polish applications omitted the moon at the base of the nail and sometimes did not include the
1950s
The 1950s saw the introduction of tube mascara, improved hair care and nail products, and the boom and then death of the weekly manicure appointment. In the early 1950s, red nail lacquer was extremely popular, with nail technicians leaving the moon—the whitish, half-moon shape at the base of the nail plate—unpolished. As the decade progressed, full-coverage, frosted pastel colors— especially light coral, silverapricot-gold—were all the rage. Hot oil manicures were the ultimate luxury in nail and hand care.
1960s
Juliette (paper) nail wraps—the precursor to silk and berglass wraps—were commonly used to protect natural nail tips. (Juliettes are credited with establishing the now familiar biweekly nail maintenance appointment.) Detached nail tips were rea xed with model airplane glue and reinforced with thin strands of cotton. Human nail clippings were also used to add nail length. Clients brought their separated nail tips to their appointments for reattachment. Nail technicians also created “nail banks,” which consisted of nails donated by all of their clients! Frosted nail shades continued to be extremely popular. Hot oil manicures continued to be the luxury service of choice.
1970s
Nail technicians o ered the rst monomer liquid and polymer powder nail services. Plastic nail tips a xed with cyanoacrylate adhesive replaced nail clippings
attached with model airplane glue to instantly extend nail length. Je Pink invented the French manicure (clear nail bed with white tip) and Ridge ller (a product that makes ridged nails appear smooth). Squared nail tips came into vogue.
1980s
Nail art—decals, jewels, metallic strips, and hand-drawn images— were extremely popular. Monomer liquid and polymer powder nail formulations continued to improve in terms of ease of application and longevity for wearers.
1990s
The day spa business took hold, ushering in a huge resurgence in natural manicure and pedicure services. Airbrush (spray) guns were commonly used to apply nail designs, especially the white tip of a French manicure. In 1998, the first spa pedicure system was introduced to the professional beauty industry.
Other notable achievements of the twentieth century include:
• UV gel systems grew in popularity.
• Color UV gel and monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements swept the industry.
• The popularity of natural nail care services reached a high point.
• Demand for pedicure services reached an all-time high.
• Nail technicians had unprecedented career choices.
• Nail enhancement performance vastly improved.
• Nail polish became safer and longer-lasting.
Twenty-First Century
Nail grooming has reached an all-time zenith in terms of client demand and product and service choices. It is no longer considered a luxury; it is an expected part of every client’s grooming ritual. An unprecedented demand for nail services of all types has created a critical shortage of nail technicians in the beauty industry.
Here are some examples of the exciting changes we’ve seen thus far:
• UV gel nail polish sweeps the nation. In addition to being called “gel nail polish,” it is commonly referred to as a gel manicure, soft-gel manicure, and soak-o gel polish. Each coat of “polish” must be cured under a UV lamp for up to one minute, depending on the brand.
• Gel polish manicures have dramatically driven the growth of the professional nail industry since their introduction in 2010. This is largely because the manicure results last two weeks or longer—including no chipping or surface dulling—and nails are no thicker than they would be with a regular manicure polish. The one drawback: Unless a client has unusually strong and exible nails, the nail plate must be kept relatively short.
• UV gel enhancements grow by leaps and bounds because of their adhesion and natural leveling capabilities, permanent shine properties, and no-odor formulations. Color and glitter UV gel and monomer liquid and polymer powder products also gain in popularity.
• Nail polish formulations evolve to embody chip-resistant, fade-resistant characteristics. Manufacturers continue to improve their nail polish formulas by eliminating many unsafe ingredients. Manicuring implements improve dramatically by incorporating new ergonomic designs and enhanced workmanship.
• A bevy of professional, natural nail care treatments and systems enter the professional beauty arena, allowing nail technicians to address speci c nail concerns.
• Foot-and-hand skin treatment products continue to grow in numbers and popularity, including many scrubs, masks, and serums that speci cally address dryness, dullness, and skinaging issues. LO2
Beyond de ning your area of expertise, you must also decide whether you want to work in one or more of the following environments:
• Nail salon
• Full-service salon (hair, skin, and nail services)
• Day spa (skin, body, nail, and hair services that emphasize beauty and wellness) (Figure 1-1)
• Medical spa, medical o ce, or foot spa
▲ Figure 1-1 Pedicures are high-demand services that many nail clients faithfully book on a monthly basis.
C AREER PATH S FO R NA IL T ECHNI C I A NS
Once you have completed your schooling and are licensed, you will be amazed at how many career opportunities will open up to you. The possibilities can be endless for a dedicated nail technician who approaches his or her career with a strong sense of personal integrity. Because rules and regulations vary from state to state, it is important to know which services are allowed in your state of licensure and the steps you must take to get there.
Within the professional nail industry, there are numerous specialties. They include the following:
• Nail technician in a traditional salon or spa. Today, clients are eagerly requesting a variety of nail services that require a combination of skills. Natural nail services—gel polish manicures and luxurious pedicures as well as nail-strengthening treatments—monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements, and odorless UV gel nail enhancements, are all very popular salon and day spa services. You can now specialize in one speci c area of your eld (e.g., natural nails, pedicures, or nail enhancements) or be a full-service nail technician who o ers many di erent types of nail services (Figure 1-2)
• Medical nail technician/advanced nail technician. Because many physicians now recognize the bene ts of using medical nail technicians (MNTs) and advanced nail technicians (ANTs) to perform safe manicures and pedicures on at-risk patients, you have a golden opportunity to take your postlicensing career to a whole new level.
To become an MNT, you are required to take specialty courses and complete an internship under the direction of a podiatrist or physician. Once your advanced training is complete and you have been certi ed as an MNT, you have the choice of working in a variety of medical settings, including a medical spa or podiatry o ce. Duties vary, but could include assisting physicians with patients as well as performing cosmetic pedicures in a dedicated salon room.
You may also choose to become an ANT. An ANT must successfully complete an advanced training course that focuses on safely providing services for at-risk clients in a salon or spa setting. Becoming an ANT also gives you greater respect among salon clients and the opportunity to bene t from physician referrals.
• Salon management. If business is your calling, you will nd diverse management opportunities in the salon and spa environment. They include inventory manager, retail sales manager, department head, special events manager (promotions), assistant manager, and general manager. With experience, you can also add salon owner to your list of career possibilities. To ensure your success, it is wise to enroll in business classes to learn more about managing products, departments, and, above all, people
▲ Figure 1-2 Nail technicians have the choice of providing basic to luxurious pedicures as well as medical-based nail and foot services.
▲ Figure 1-3 Moving into management and even salon ownership are possible career paths for nail technicians.
• Salon educator. Many companies, such as manufacturers and salon chains, hire experienced salon professionals and train them to educate others. This kind of education can take many forms, ranging from technical to management and interpersonal relationship training. A salon educator can work with small salons, as well as large organizations and trade associations, to help develop the beauty industry’s most valuable resource—salon personnel (Figure 1-4)
• Distributor sales consultant. The salon industry depends heavily on its relationships with product distributors in order to stay abreast of changes in the marketplace. In addition to selling products, distributor sales consultants (DSCs) provide information about new products, trends, and techniques. This specialty provides an excellent opportunity for highly skilled and trained cosmetology professionals. The DSC is the salon’s link to the rest of the industry. It is also a relationship that represents the most e ective method for professional beauty product companies to reach salon professionals and owners.
• Manufacturer educator. Most manufacturers hire their own educators to train salon professionals on how to use their products and even to provide advanced education. Mastery of the company’s product lines is a must for manufacturer educators. An accomplished educator who is also a good public speaker can advance to eld educator, regional educator, or even director of education for nail-centric companies.
• Beauty school instructor. Have you ever wondered how your instructor decided to start teaching? Many instructors had fantastic careers in salons before dedicating themselves to teaching new professionals the tricks of the trade. If this career path interests you, spend some time with your school’s instructors and ask them why they went into education. While educating new nail technicians can be challenging, it can also be very rewarding.
• Film/editorial nail technician. Working behind the scenes at magazine and Internet photo shoots, or backstage on movies and TV sets, begins by volunteering. Even someone right out of school can volunteer by networking with photographers, editorial stylists, and nail technicians who already work behind the scenes. Once you are o cially assisting a seasoned nail technician at photo shoots—even if it means you are volunteering your time—ask photographers for one or two images in lieu of payment. Make sure they show o your nail work! Eventually, as you gain the trust of those who have allowed you to assist, you will be invited to do shoots as a paid nail technician. The qualities required to get to this level include technical expertise, persistence, networking skills, reliability, team spirit, speed, and attention to detail. LO3
▲ Figure 1-4 Educators can work parttime and still service a clientele or work full-time as a teacher or trainer.
