Buisness Magazine for Food Service & Food Retail Professionals
Dec- Jan 2012 Volume V/ #6
HAMMER
Food & Beverage BUISNESS REVIEW
Just Desserts
The Retail Boom
Pg
30
Pg36
Pg40
Packaged to Please Pg 30
Almonds
Cloves
Milkshakes
Liqueur
Chinese Cuisine
Riesling
E D I T O R I A L India has witnessed an immense growth in the retail sector in the last few years. The Indian Retail structure is developing rapidly, with more organized retailers reaching large cities. Also the traitional retail formats like grocery shops continue to coexist with the mordern formats of retailing. The key drivers for the growth of organized retail are primarily changing cosumer profile and demographics. The food buisness in India is largely unorganized. Aggreg revenue of large food players is only 5 %.
is said to double in the next 3 yrs to $30 billion. The organised sector, which today accounts for a meagre 5% of the total market Rising realty prices may render a few buisness models unviable. The Organized retail may be in its infancy, but the report suggests that the industry loses to the tune of $120-130 million every year in fraud, theft and shoplifting. And inacurate supervision. Manpower crunch is another highlight of the reporth that says there is another high-
Food & Beverage
“McKinsey report, average Indian household spends 49 % of their income on food and beverages. Which is one of the highest in the world.”
HAMMER
BUISNESS REVIEW
Publisher & Editor Rajneesh Sharma
Resident Editor Sharmilla Chand (Delhi) Alok Malkani (Mumbai)
Feature Editor Ameeta Sharma
Correspondent Ameeta Sharma
Layout & Design Hari Kumar. V Narendra Kumar
Photography Mahendra Singh Mehta
Production Controller Vinay Goel
Production Assistant Without a strong supply chain, It would be impossible to have a succesful buisness venture. The key to efficiency in todays supply chain is the adotion of standards that can bebenchmarked with global best practises. The report highlights Several challenges facing retail in India. It cites lack of high quality road networks, power shortages and insufficient storage spaces as major constraints for the development of an efficient supply chain. The report also expressed aprehensions. Most Food is sold in the market through kirans stores. According to McKinsey report, average Indian household spends 49 % of their income on food and beverages. Which is one of the highest in the world. The supply chain in India for the food products is very complex. It involves suppliers, Distributors, Retailers and dealers. What India requires is an efficient supply chain for better buisness It can help in creating better logistics along with creating better inventory. To reduce cost. Proper infrastructure is a prerequisite in retailing, which would help to modernize India. and facilitate rapid econmic growth. This would help the efficient delivery of goods and value aded service to the consumer making a higher contribution to the GDP. According to the latest FICCI and Ernst & Young reported to the retail sector of the organized market.
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huge demand-supply gap for experts in supply chain and store mangement areas. Large players like Reliance, Future group, Shubhiksha, Big Apple, Rahejas, Bharti, ITC, and many others are making significant investments in this sector, leading to immergence of big etailers who can make a difference in retail.
Mamta Sharma
Data Services Neha Gera
Co-ordinated Hari Om Singh
Advertising Sales Debashis Mitra (Delhi) Sanjeev Kumar Chauhan (Delhi) Rajesh Tupsakhare (Mumbai)
Subscription Sales
Editorial & Advertising Offices
Dattaram Gangurde (Mumbai) Manoj Kumar (Delhi)
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F & B - Buisness Review
Dec - Jan ‘12
CONTENTS COVER
RETAIL
Just Desserts
Retail Boom
36
30 FEATURE
Menu Development & Analysis
BUISNESS
Packaged to Please
EVENTS Alimentaria 2012 Gulfood 2012 IFE 2011- Overview India (IFOWS) India Wine challenge
4 6 8 10 12
NEWS Godrej & Hersheys New Olive Beach Restaurant Jumbo King to expand Gloria Jean’s Coffees in India
16 18 16 6
REPORT
46
40
A G R I C U LT
BAKING
Cloves
A Nutty Delight
54
58
DAIRY
CUISINE
Art & Wine - Newzealand Champagne Affair Gold Star Offering Olive Oil Promotion From Italy With Love
20 20 22 24 26
WINE Rejoice with Riesling
68
LIQUOR Bring out the Liqueur
72
PUB
Shakes & Smoothies 62
Chinese Cuisine
82
Bar 24 / 7
76
THE CHEF Chef Devraj Haldar
86
RESTAURANT REVIEW
The China Kitchen PRODUCT PREVIEW Dissolvable labels
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92
CLASSIFIED Advertisers Index
94
VIEW POINT Baba Ling
96
Cover Pix : Le Gordon Bleu
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F & B - Buisness Review
Dec - Jan ‘12
Worlds Leading F&B Show Alimentaria, The Intertional Food and Beverage Exhibition, is once again set to turn Barcelona Into the worlds food and Beverage capital. The event will take place from the !0-14 March 2012, at the two Fira de Barcelona venues Monjuic and Gran Via Through its 17 edition Alimentaria will consolidate its position as the world premir shows for the global foodindustry. The organizers are expecting 1,55,000 Viswwwtors & 5,000 exhibitors to be present. The expected floor area of the show is 131,20m2. 33,000 professionals will be from abroad. Due to the shows growing needs it will now it will now be held at two locations. 30% of all the companies exhibiting will be from abroad. about17,000m2 of Alimentarias 2012’s Net Exhibition Space will be res-erved for foreign exhibitors hailing from 70 countries & all 5 Continents.
The orginizers are focusing exclusively on strengthening Alimentaria’s strategic vluesThe shows which focus on meat products, and the food and Hospitality. Through its 17 edition Alimentaria will consolidate its position as the world premir shows for the global foodindustry. The organizers are expecting 1,55,000 Viswwwtors & 5,000 exhibitors to be present. The expected floor area of the show is 131,20m2. 33,000 professionals will be from abroad. Due to the shows growing needs it will now it will now be held at two locations. 30% of all the companies exhibiting will be from abroad. about17,000m2 of Alimentarias 2012’s Net Exhibition Space will be res-erved for foreign exhibitors hailing from 70 countries & all 5 Continents.
NEW ACTIVITIES Alimentaria 2012 will mark the begining of a number of activities. Future Shop at Innovala recreation of tomorows distribution poins.the Tapas and Gastronomy space, the confectionert and sandwhiches exhibition an the International Pizza Contest are just some of the new nothworthy features. In addition, Alimentaria 2012 will be reinforcing the elements which give the show its most creative personality and makes it a platform for research and Development.Educational and entertainment events will fill every corner of Alimentaria. Organizers have scheduled a wide range of activities throughout
15 SHOWS IN ONE EXHIBITION Since its begining Alimentaria has aimed to build itself into a mega trade fair. Today it has achieved its goal with firm commitment toward all in the global industry. In order to achieve maximum specialization the show has been segmented according to the needs of the industry. Alimentarial will be made of13 shows, They are-
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CONGELEXPO
- The Frozen Food Show
EXPOBEBIDAS
- The Show for bottled Drinks
EXPOCONSER
- Preserved and semi-preserved foods
INTERCARN
- Show for Meat Products
INTERLACT
- Milk and Dairy Product Show
INTERPESCA
- Show for Seafood & Farm Fresh.
INTERVIN
- Wine and Spirits Show
MUNDIDULCE
- Sweets, Buiscuits & Confectionary
MULTI PRODUCTO
- Show for general food products
OLIVARIA
- Olive oil & Vegetable Oil
RESTAURAMA
- Food and Hospitaliy Show
VEGEFRUIT
- Fresh Fruit & Vegetable show
F & B - Buisness Review
These 13 shows each designed for a specific product family, will be accompanied by the spanish regional Pavillion in which all of spain’s autonomous will take part at the International Pavillion where some of the international companies will be located
Dec - Jan ‘12
FULL PAGE ADVERTISMENT
2012 Dubai Intrnational Convention & Exhibition Centre Gulfood 2012 -
The 15th Gulf food, Hotel & Equipment Exhibition and Salon Culinere, Organized by Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC), Will be held at the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre.(DICEC) from the 24-27 of february 2012. Organized since 1987 Gulfood is the largest and most important even of the region.It is strategic platform for buyers and sellers to conduct direct buisness face to face. The exhibition is a showcase for manufacturers,distributors and suppliers from all around the world, Representing all of the key sectors within the food and hospitality trade. The show has become a corner stone event for the food and hospitality industries, With visitors from various sectors. In 2007 Gulfood brought together 2,471 companies from 75 countries and feat-ured 56 national pavillions. The exhibition attracted 37,618 visitors from 140 countires including buying delegations not only from the Middle East as far as Armenia, Canada,Egypt,India, Kenya, Jordan, Latvia, USA, UK, Malaysia, Morrocco & Thailand.
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The 15th edition of Gulfood in 2012 has confirmed over 20 % growth in exhibiton space, With an expansion in Sheikh Rashid and Sheikh Makhtoom Halls at the Dubai International Convention and Exhibiton Centre.Gulfood 2012 is also organizing the Emirates international Salon Culianre together. with the Dubai International Food Safety Conference. Gulfood is strictly a trade only event and is open to Buisness and trade visitors only. Proof of which must be provided ot registration. Genral public and persons under the age of 21 will not be permited into the premises at any cost.
RESTAURANT & CAFE 2012 Restaurant and Cafe Middle East is the Middle Easts Premiere Exhibition for the Restaurants & Cafe Interiors Equipment, Suppliers and Services. Held alongside the Gulfood, Restaurant and Cafe Middle East is a specialized trade fair taking place from 24-27 febuary in Hall 1 at the DICEC. Restaurant and Cafe Middle east is designed to meet the needs of industry profession involved in every step of the restaurant and cafe set up & operation for function.
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SALON CULINAIRE -2012
The Emirates International Salon Culinaire 2012, organized by the Emirates Culinary Guild ( ECG), in the UAE’s association of professional chefs, is a 4 day culinary extravaganza that includes seminars, competetions and demonstrations. The 4 day event will take place at Gulfood in alliance with the DWTC and will thrill and inspire audiences with -
Cookery Demonstration Live Cooking Competetion Ice Carving Demonstration Buffet & Banquet Show Pastry & Sugar set Peices Bakery & Confectionary innovations.
The ethos of the creation of the event is dedicated to Culianry arts and the celebration of food and its accompaniments displayed.
Dec - Jan ‘12
FULL PAGE ADVERTISMENT
First India Wine Challenge The 2007 India Wine Challenge was dubbed a huge success. IFE exhibition was the setting for the announcements of the results of the India’s first ever serious wine competetion, the International Wine Challenge.The Indian Event was chaired by Robert Joeseph- founder of International wine challenge in London which now attracts 9000 entries, and he wine challenges in Japan, Russia, China, Singapore, Vietnam and Honk Kong. Joeseph firmly blieves that India is one of the most exciting Wine markets in the World right now.
Could you explain sipmly the whole entry System and how the process happened ? There we 350 entries,142 wines have medals, 60 odd have seal of approval. The others are award recommends points. You had to get 14 points to get a seal of approval, with 13 points it is not a bad bottle of wine but not something I would recomend. The ones that didnt make it to the top and had 12 points, information would be available to them only by pointing out the problem about why their winre did not win. The details of the Jury are not available to public.
What is your personal take on Indian Wine makers?
The 2007 India wine challenge was held in London and New Delhi, and it brought together recognized tasters from India - Abhay. Sourish Bhattacharya, Alok Chandra and Subhash Arora; and from Europe Stephane Soret Sommelier of the Imperial, Delhi; BIll Marchetti; Steve Daniel, former buyer of the Oddbins wine chain in the UK; Keith Issacs Master of Wine; Bill Rolfe, former buyer for the Unwins wine chain and Brett Crittenden of Diva Wines.
Sula really is the top of Indian wine makers. Grovers were also almost there but my current tasting puts SULA there. I would have to say that 9 hills wines which was earlier dissapointing, have changed within one year. Probably because the australlian incharge of wine making came twice to tweak. It is an indication to other companies really that it is not sufficient to have a french wine maker, it is not the answer, you may have a good wine maker but you need as much outside advice as you can get and these people have to come and work alongside the winemaker in India.
Joeseph was vocal enough to admit that he was impressed by the quality of wine entries, especially from Italy, Australlia and New Zealand. He said “ that while only 16% of the wines were sealed with screw caps, the most highly rated red and white both had screwcaps, as did the highest rated India red, white and rose”, Joeseph agreed that the screcaps made particular sense in India as storage is often a problem. The tasters sampled anonymous samples of 350 wines from 15 different countries. Among these 35 were from Indian wineries. The 5 Indian Wines that were recognized for theyre worth- Sula Sauvignion Blanc 2006 (siver), Sula Dindori Shiraz Reserve 2006, Revelio Chenin Blanc 2005 and Seagrams Nine Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2007.
No, it is not to early, even if they do not win, they need to participate. There is no real justification in commercial terms. Nashik is a very mixed area, just because it is a good place for table grapes doesnt mean its right for wine making grapes too. Viticulture inputs are important. Winemaking of high quality is there but the quality control in India is not on top. Wine is like a milk product, it is fragile. anybody who runs a dairy knows that you cannot run it well without attention to detail And wine should be given the same attention to detail. Savignon Blanc is definitely international quality in India.
Is it not to early to have such a competetion in India?
What role would you say hotels in India have to play in promotions of wine? In India you have a strange situation with absurd levels of duties, whiskey has come down and wine has gone up. Hotels by default have do Wine promotion and education. Shangrila is doing the role of what waitrose is doing in the UK. Unfortunately wines in hotels are not cheap, there is the Hotel markup which I dont Begraudge, but they have to participate in promotional activities.
The International top prize went to Germany for the ‘Dr. Loosen Mendel’ as the finest white wine. To Newzealand whose Forrest State Pinot Noir was the top red; to Hunhary whose Royal Tokaji wine co Aszu Essenzia was the top sweet wine, & to France for the 1947 Abbe Rous Granf Cru Banylus for the fortified Wine segment. The last drew the remark that it was highly appropriate for a Wine born at the time of Indias birth to take this kind of award in Delhi.
These days India and China often get compared-how would you place them in the Wine scenario?
China is far more interesting in short term, In the medium and long term India would be a better marker and whatever I can do I would like to for Wine promotion in India.
Why recognize the fortified wine when there is no category for chamapgne?
Interview with Robert Joeseph
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There were not many entyities in the fortified wines, nor in champagnes there were not may entries. None of the entries were worthy in champagne. This fortified wine was recognized for its quality. It is only available in france but we wanted to recognize its quality.
F & B - Buisness Review
Dec - Jan ‘12
ADVERTISMENT
Lite Bite tie-up for QSR’s
Olive Opens The Beach in Delhi
Lite Bites Food Pvt Ltd. promoted by Amit Burman, Vice chairman of FMCG Major Dabur India Ltd, has announced a strateic Joint venture with the father-son team of Jiggs Kalra and Zorawar Kalra to estabilish a food court & restaurant chain Company
Olive has added another restaurant in the capital. The Olive Beach Restaurant was officially opened In Hotel Diplomat. Olive Beach captures the essence and magic of a Mediterranean Beach Side. within the rustic charm of the Olive philosphy. According to AD Singh, “ After the painful period that we had to go through, I am glad that we came to this beautiful place where tranquility is supreme.
The Quick Service Restaurant (QSR)- based joint venture will focus on delevering customer satisfaction through high-quality gourmet food at suitble locations and at attractive prices. “Lite Bite aims to develop into India’s Leading Food Court and Chain restaurant firm, Comprising both leading international as well as In-house concepts and Brands. QSR is a promising restaurant concept and its combination with our goals, is bound to create wider appeal,’- Amit Burman. He also said that that the new Joint Venture would focus on a wde spectrum of consumers through a chain of various kinds of restaurants and exclusive High-end Catering Services. Rite Bite, promoted jointly by Burman, Rohit, and Tejpavan, Plan to invest nearly Rs 200 cr to estabilish Pan India Network of 200 Restaurants. Jiggs Kalra will provide Cuisine and and format development expertise to the new joint venture and Zorawar Karla will be managing on going activities of the venture
Of, course in keeping with the location and the neighbourhood, we are more sober here. The emphasis is more on the casual Fine Dining and Wines, Though our Martinis with coffee have become very popular in a short while. The 80 covers are less, But we hope to get the liscencse soon for the outside area. Guinari Tassinari, The new Italian Chef will be looking after this restaurant.
Godrej Hershey’s to Introduce Product Range in India.
Haryana-New Excise Policy Gurgaon stores may sell Wine
Godrej Hersheys Food and Beverages will be launching its first range of hersheys products in India. The joint venture company between Godrej Foods and Hershey’s is planning to invest Rs 200- Rs 300 Cr. For the new products. The Company however, ruled out phasing out of any of Godrej’s products including brands like Excess and Jumpin.
The new excercise policy of Haryana for the coming financial year could allow large departmental stores in gurgaon to sell tinned Beers and Wines.
Hersheys bought a 51% Stake in Godrej Food and Beverages for about $58 million. The remaining stae is held by Godrej Industries. Post acquisition, Godrej Foods & Beverages has brands likeMaha Lacto, Koko Naka, Milk Eclairs, Honey Fab, Aam Ras and Gulkaand, Nutrine is also 100% Subsidiary of Godrej Food & Beverages
The government could also extend bar timings by two hours more on special days. The proposal made to the state government, which is on the verge of finalising Haryan Excise policy for the year 2012-2013, also includes setting up of wine cellars in shops situated in posh areas, availibilty of miniature bottles in bars, setting of minibrs in individual hotel rooms, availability of draught beer and clubs having room accomodations could serve liquor in its rooms. Recomondations for the new policy include allowing large departmental stores to set up their own wine cellars and sell wine to customers in malls as well as posh localities. It has also proposed that Hotels in the category of three stars or more to set up individual mini bars in hotel rooms for their guests.
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Dec - Jan ‘12
ADVERTISMENT
Art & Wine from New Zealand
Ponsardin rose 2000. Tea or coffee could easily be missed after the delicious lunch simply because it had no possibility of champagne with it.
At the residence of New Zealand comissioner Greame Waters and his wife Audrey. the invite said ‘sampling good art and good wine’. One wonders if it was a lesson of sampling good wines from the region. But no, it was exactly what it promised, some great art and delectable wines. Artists present there were Michelle Anaand, Andy Reisenger and Phil Dadson with a sample of their works. The wines were accompanied by some finger foodss- Astrolabe Sauvignion Blanc 2008 Marlborough ( with Fried fish and Paneer). Villa Maria Private Bin Riesling 2007,Marlborough ( with spicy chicken tikka and vegetable cutlets). Saint Claire piniot Noir( with Lamb and Vegetable Pizza) and St. claire Merlot. The savignion and noir were both exceptional wines though i would prefer the former with the more delicate prawns and the latter is sacrilage to waste on a Veg. Pizza! All the Wines were screw top caps making opening them less ritualistic and the effect more pleasing. For the next event at the same venue was the launch of Villa maria Wines being imported by Brindco. It was a Gala Evening well appreciated and attended.It was cold but with gas heaters it was easy to keep cosy. Villa Maria Winery has been named one of the worlds 50 great wine producers by US magazine Wine spectator. And for the past 2 years they have won the best Pinot Noir of the year.
The afternoon had begun with Pommery Brut Non Vintage while conversation opened between people who had never met before, or are meeting after a long ime. Champagne need not always be jus about the bubbles either and Daniel reiterated that when signs of pleasure went up collectively for Ambonay 1966 when he said “If you are willing to compromise the bubbles the wine could be easily kept for twenty years!
A Champagne Affair Champage comes from Champagne only & while it enjoys its position as a celebratory drink. It is over and above a wine thus may be consumed though a meal with the right pairing-these were the two lessons being shared again when Danel Lrson from CIVC ( The Comite Interprofessional du Vin de Champagne) and SOPEXA hosted a lunch paired with different champagnes at the Grand Intercontinental’s Roof top restuarant- The Grill.
Crostini of smoked salmon with capers and onion or goat cheese tartin with caremilzed onions was enjoyed with Gonet Blanc de Blancs. Followed by soup mushroom ccappucino with gosset champagne.The warmth of the soup was in sync with the chilled notes on the Gosset. For the main course came roasted reast of corn fed chicken or risotto with Campignions and morels,accompanied by Nicholas Feuillate grand cru Ambonnay 996. Dessert of Tirmisu and Veuve Cliquot. The dessert of Tirmisu and Veuve Cliquot
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As much as the experience was delectable the company appreciable, the food well presented and the champagne just right for a winter afternoon It was the lilltle touch of CIVC champagne notebooks titled’ an introduction to tasting champagne. and the informative champagne tasting sheet that deserves a standing ovation. It could make a connisuer out of anyone who loves all things fine and has a clear pallate with a penchant for words. Never before has sharing an experience been so full of fun- even though I did mine on return, after the lunch at home. A Landscape Layout divided into different columns view of the champagne (color, appearence, bubbles and if they form a necklace), on the nose (Floral, Fruity, Epicurean with options), Palate ( Aromas and feeling), ideal circumstances to drink this ( Picnic, lunch, Coctail, special occasion etc). Food to match it with (main course and dessert). and finally the overall impression of the champagne. For the last, the four pillars of expression would be body,spirit soul and heart and corresponding adjectives would be sensuality, intellignce, mysticism and tenderness. Somewhere in between were charm, romanticism, passion union and enthusiasm. Enough to make a person think of champagne beyond just a drink- and that is the point behind such an excercise. Understanding champagne does not take away the air of mysticism around it that is inherent in every bottle for style comes naturally when u drink champagne- before, during or after your meal.
Dec - Jan ‘12
GoldStar Offering
A Brazilian Evening Well alcohol is not just limited to French or New Zealand wines - there are offerings from the rest of the world too. An evening of Chacaca, the premium brand, DIVA was launched in India.The evening coincided with the begining of the IFE event and was in the open lawns of Lodhi Garden restaurant. Not that it stopped anybody fom attending - the lure of brazzilian goodies was too much to resist.
Indo French Chambers of Commerce & Industry was present in full supporting role to the importer Sanjeev Aurora. Venue, Nudeli was selected in terms of choice of food but insufficient lighting meant inability to appreciate the depth of the colour of the wines being unveiled. 2004 vintage of Chateau de Francs, Fruity aromas and medium bodied wines with long lasting finish and moderate tannin content, was 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. It has got itself a gold medal in Paris just in two years. However the Chateau Trianon Saint Emillion Grand Cru 2004 was the elegance personified wine with a stronger nose and charming, Spicy and fuller flavour on the tongue. With more Merlot on 80% and 10% of Cabernet Franc and 5% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere this wine is expected to be a hit flavour with Indian cuisine.
The third offering comes with a 92 rating by Robert Parker and was Chateau Belfont Belcier 2004 St. Emilon grand cru classe. It is recommended for its concentrated aromas, medium body and good acidity. Micheal Carter, trade comissioner Australian embassy with his charming wife Savi made an interesting presence. French celebrity chef Alain Andre was appreciative of the wines as were Jean Leviol, senior head of economic mision,South Asia. Of course the presence of the Counsel General of France from mumbai Francois Pujolas with his wife was appreciated too.
Dec - Jan ‘12
De La Riva. In India the import will be done by Narco Exports. The launch was done at the Taj PAlace Hotel followed by lunch. Sandeep Gogia, VP Narco exports says “faced with ailments like heart attack, diabeties, Hyper tension there is growing awarness about healthy diets with emphasis on good cooking medium on varios parameters. The company has been in Import for over 70 years and now present MUSA
Olive Oil Promotion in India. Dance, colorful birds cutouts hanging from the trees and battery operated plastic take-aways in which all the fruit juice and sugar laden cocktails were devouvered. It was the kind of evening where a food item gets cold between the time it takes for it to reach from the serving bowl to the mouth, but the evening rocked.
When International Olive Council began their promotional activities for the Indian market their scope included every imaginable targetfrom Doctors to Dieticians, Children to Housewives an of course Chefs. It all culiminated in Delhi with a fancy Dinner at the end of the @ and a half day workshop which say many doctors beauticians and a celebrity Chef speak on various good effects of Olive Oil on Human Anatomy and Health as much as beauty.
MUSA Olive Oil Launched In India Almost Coinciding with the culimination of International olive council doing the aggressive promotion of oil in India was plan of Spanish brand MUSA- in the Indian market. As it is well acknowledged by now olive oil is an integral part of mediterennean cuisine for centuries. Its taste and flavour lends to food both in terms of good taste and health benifits.
Spanish olive oil giant, Moreno announces its entry into the Indian Market by launching their flagship brand MUSA. The official unveilling HE. Jon
F & B - Buisness Review
Celebrity Chef Sanjeev Kapoor is a well recognized face and name and he has over the years made a special place for himself within all followeres of Chef and Cookery programmes on television. He has also written a book recently - Best Of India - Cooking with Olive OIl. The Green Gold of Mediterenean the Olive Oil is alien to Indian cooking mediums but it can be adapted and the result keeps Indian gastronomy intact. So if you wish to fry your Imartis in Olive Oil, you can. If you desire to have pooris that have been done in olive oil, you just have to go ahead.
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I
“
have had the opportunity to work with a great diversity of people. I have learnt to appreciate and respect different backgrounds, thoughts, food and customs and that way it makes me feel more complete and unprejudiced” - Chef Devraj Halder
Your definition of scuccess ?
We achieve in proportion to what we endeavour.
Your Idea of happiness ?
To be at peace with myself is my idea of happiness and is a very fullfilling thought.
Your passionate about ?
Everything I make up my mind to do. The same thing has to be done and differently.
You believe in ?
Hard work and a little bit of luck.
Your strength ?
Organizing skills, foresight and attitude
Your weakness ?
Patience with people is something of an uphill task for me, also I find it difficult to relax my mind.
Your greatest desire ?
He started his career 12 years ago, learning French cuisine and then went ahead to specialize in Italian and Mexican cuisines. Due to his various jobs and assignments acreoss the India in eight different locations, his quest and deep interest began in local cuisines to understand and appreciate the diversity. Chef Halder has not stopped since thenand has clocked 80 food festivals in international and ethinc food and has even detoured to unchartered teretories with research based food festivals. He still thinks it is only the beginning. Sharma Chand gets to know more about this hugely talented Chef
SPICE
Cinnamon & Black Pepper
CUISINE
North Indian
FOOD
Home
MOTTO
Put your best but then don’t let it rest.
FETISH
Fresh ingredients, fresh fo-od, fresh air, fresh water, and fresh ideas
How do you define yourself ?
A self made person who stands firm on the ground but flies high in his visipn.
Meaning of Life for you ?
Small things matter. All big things are made with smaller building blocks and the process is something that needs to be realized not just the outcome.
Tell us about your work ..
I try to make every day a new day. I introspect on my work frequently and work on controllable errors. I love challenging myself and most of the times I am happy with the results. I like being creative, different and taking criticism as an opportunity to learn.
If not a Chef, then what ?
If not a chef, I would have definitely been a surgeon or a marine bioligist. All these professions make you learn everyday with experience and intrigue. Also, these are occupations filled with knowledge, pride and excitement.
What is your source of Inspiration?
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Pursuit of quality, at work and at home is truly inspiring.
Any award achieved ?
Many actually. The trust levels which I enjoy, the big responsibilities which always come my way, the recognition that my hard work brings to me and the smiles that I bring to my family and ,my colleagues are huge awards to me. F & B - Buisness Review
To travel to far fetched places with no baggage of responsibilities behind.
Your leisurely pursuits are ? Movies and excercise
Your favourite holiday destination ? Goa
Your relationship God ? Very personal.
How do you De-stress yourself ?
I like to write. I watch movies and excercise and I end up over doing all of them and stress myself up even more and land up at square one everytime.
Are you foodie ? Very Much
Your biggest asset is ?
My daughter, her name is Vaishanvi. She is 6. When I am with her out maturity levels match.
If you had to describe yourself in one word ? Go getter, thats one word I presume.
How do you rate yourself as a Chef ? 8- 10 Your biggest fear ?
One day we will run short of all the lovely natural ingredients. Dec - Jan ‘12
“ Talented, Methodical, and a Go-Getter!” You have a fetish for ?
Fresh ingredients, fresh food, fresh air, fresh water and fresh ideas !
Favourite Cuisine ?
The local cuisine wherever my work takes me. Now it has to be North Indian as I am in New Delhi.
Favourite spice ?
Black Pepper and Cinnamon.
Favorite dish ?
Anything that my mom makes, she makes the simplest of food taste divine.
a little vague but we make serious efforts to connect with people. I insist my kitchen follows the above motto when they are cooking.
You are obsessed with ?
I always seem to have a to do list an work feverishly on that but the list just never finishes.
The best compliment you have ever recieved ?
Quite a few standing ovations. All very special. That is the only time I feel weak in my legs and feel like running off.
Favourite food joint ?
Your mottto in Life ?
Your Hot selling Item ?
10 years from now ?
Home.
We do food with love and affection. We do food which is value ad-on to your health. We do food which is honest, looks attractive and leaves you with pleasant memories. All of this sounds
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Put you best but then dont let it rest.
I would definitely like to reduce my pace of work, and put my aquired experience to work, to provide tangible benifits to the community.
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What are your future plans ?
To do things in life which I can look back at with respect and pride.
What is the position of Chefs today in India ?
Not os encoraging, there are no parameters to distinguish the bet from the good. In that bargain the best cannot do better. Recognitions for chefs in India is still a debatable subject.
What is the future of Chefs in India ?
Smart chefs after sometime look for ‘smarter’ proffesions. Talent drain in India is phenomenal. Culinaary schools need complete over hauling and the Industry in turn needs to support these schools. Support Chef Entreprenuers.
What are the problems and challenges faced by Chefs ?
The biggest challenge is to retain a good team. Also, Inconsistent supplies due to bad market infrasctructure and supply chian
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Just Desserts
Everyone has a sweet
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tooth, and since time immemorial, Indians have been hogging sweets under one pretext or another. There are sweets for every occasion- be it festivals, marriage, birthdays etc. One of the desserts internationally loved by people of all ages is ICE-CREAM.
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weets for the sweetest’ said the beau to his girl as he handed her a box of Dry Fruit Barfi. Everyone has a sweet tooth, Particularly the Indians and that is one of the reasons why dessert is a favourite amongst them. From Jalebi to Mysorepaak to Rasogollas. Indian relish them all. Infact every province has its own favourite sweet. The phenomenon of sweet tooth is not just synonomous with India but all over the world. Perhaps that is the reason desserts are so popular throught the world. In India there are occasions when the dinners partake sparsely of the main meal so that they can take sevral helpings of the dessert. Incidently the term Dessert is derived from the french word ‘Desservir”. Some of the famous desserts that have seduced the world’s palate are puddings, custards, pastries, pies, cakes and ice cream. The most popular puddings around the world are Chocolate Puddings, Figgy pudding, Blanc Mange, Pistacio Pudding, and Chershire puddings. Custards are the favourite desserts for those who love Dairy. They are often reffered to as Dessert or Dessert Sauce. There is a wide range of custard preparation based on milk and eggs. The most popular custard dessert category include English Triffle, Creme Caramel, Custard Tartfrozen custard and Zambaglione. Cakes have an unbeatten position amongst desserts and are enjoyed on all kinds of occasions.
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people and was beheaded in 1649. But by that time the secret of the frozen cream remained a secret no more. The cook named DeMirco had not kept his promise.Not surprising. This story is just one of the many fascinating tales which surround the evolution of world’s most popular dessert- Ice Cream. It is likely that Ice Cream is not invented but rather evolved over the years. There are many other stories but none of them can be corroborated. According to popular accounts, Marco Polo (1254-1324) saw ice creams being made during his trip to china, and on his return introduced them the myth continues, sadly there is no historical evidence to any of these stories.
There are innumerable cake barieties. Some of the finest are- Angel Food Cake, Black Forest Cake, Croquembouche, Mooncake and Tart Tine. Pies or tarts are often enjoyed all over the world as the finest dessert. The most enjoyed pies the world over are Blueberry and Rasberry Tarts, Cgerry Tarts, Bacon and Egg Pie, Kalakukko and Sheperds Pie. Talk about ice-creams, and the young and old all over the worldgo slurp, slurp. These lip smacking coolers come in various flavours, since this is one of the best international flavours a bit of Histoy would be in place. According to the ’History Of Ice-Cream’ written by the International Association Of Ice-Cream manufacturers (IAICM), Washington DC, much of the early history of Ice-Cream remains a folklore. One version is that Charles I of England had hosted a state banquet for his friends and family which comprised of several delicasies. But the ‘coup de grace’ was a new dish which the Kings French Chef had concocted after much experimenting. The dish was cold and resembled fresh-fallen snow but was much creamier and sweeter than any other after dinner dessert. The guests were delighted. As was Charles, who summoned the cook and asked him not to divulge the recipe for his frozen cream The King wanted the delicacy to be served only only at the Royal Table & offered the cook 500 pounds a year to keep it that way, Sometime later however Charles was disfavoured by his
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Chris Clarke in his 2004 Royal Society of Chemistry monograph ‘The Science of Ice Cream’ Points out that that History of Icecream is closely associated with the development of refrigeration techniques and thus can be traced in several stags. Acorrding to IAICM history, in 1774 a caterer named Phillip Lenzi announced in a New York Newspaper that he had just arived from london and would be offering for sale various confections including Ice Cream. Dolly Madison wife od US President James Maddison, Served Ice Cream at her husbands inaugaral ball in 1813. Ice Cream has since then become a hit! The first improvemnt in the manufacture of Ice Cream (the handmade way) was done by a woman from New Jersey. Nancy Johnson, who in 1846 invented the hand cranked freezer. Commercial production befun in North America in Baltimore, Maryland 1851 by Jacob
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Fussel now known as the as the father of the American Ice cream industry. About !926 the first commercially succesful continuos process frezeer was perfected.The continuos freezer developed by Clarence Vogt, and the later ones produced by other manufacturers, have allowed the ice cream industry to become a mass producer of its product.
named Italo Marchiony had a US Patent on just such an item seversl months before the fair opened. Marchiony had been selling lemon ice in cones from hi pushcart since 1896, and was issued a patent on his mould on December 13,1903. In his application for the patent he described his invention as being ‘ like a waffle iron and producing several small pastry cups with sloping sides.’ Now if that doesnt sound like an ice cream cone, then what does? It has been noted that there were around fifty Ice cream stands at the Fair in St.Louis and a large number of waffle Shops.Doubtless the 1904 Fair was the place where the cone became popular. They called it-The World’s Fair Cornucopia.’ Nice touch. And it definitely caught on.
INDIAN DESSERTS
Indian Deseerts comprise of much more than Ice cream, cakes, puddings and custards. India has a large
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TIRAMISU
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Amore Gelato Parlour, Bandra. Celini, Grand Hyatt Regency Hotel, Mumbai. Staxx, Hyatt regency, Mumbai. Cassalinga, Andheri Monza Garden Court, Phoenix Mills Bohemia Cafe Juhu.
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The first Canadian to start selling ice cream was Thomas Webb of toronto, a confectioner William Nelson around 1850 produced his first commercial batch of ice cream in Toronto in 1893, and his company produced ice cream at that location for about 100 years. So much for the History of ice cream. But whta about the cones that everybody munches on? Have you heard abouth the great Ice-Cream cone Cntroversy ? It has the folks at S. Louis hopping mad and more than a little embarassed. After several decades of boasting that, like the hot dog bun and the hamburger, the ice cream cone was invented at the St Louis Fair, 1904. It turns out that a New Yorker,
repotoire with sweets. Many popular Indian sweets are common throughout South Asia while others are specific to a certain region. Actually Indian Sweets have made Indian food famous throughout history. Each region has its own specialties. Basically various regional recipies are only different forms of rice puddings, milk puddigns, vegetables and fruits dipped in sweet syrup. Besides there are a variety of milk based Barfis and pastries.
Mocha These are decorated with raisins,almond PIstaccio and the likes. Various combinations of all the above delicacies offer hundreds of Varieties for Indian Traditional Sweets to choose from. Most Indian sweets are made by reducing the milk by boiling it down. After the moisture is out whats left is called, khoya. Adding butter, sugar and many other flavours, these are turned into barfi, malai, kheer, rasogolla and sandesh.
Kobe Little Italy, Juhu. Moshes, Nariman Point
The 19th century renaissance in Bengal brought about a dramatic change in the life of the Begalis in Calcutta as they witnessed for the first time the birth of several sweet meat shops. Rasogolla, one of the most popular sweet meats in India originated from the eastern part of the country has an interesting History. Very few know it was created in the temple town of Puri in the Eastern State of Orissa.
“ Bachelors at Chowpatty has been dishing out Green Chilli and Bhel flavoured Ice Cream to its eager customers”
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Continued..... Another Indian desert is Payasam which is usually found in celebrations in South India the best dishes of Payasam are found in the temples of Guruvayoor and Ambalappuzha. It is served as a part of a tradition based on the ancient legend which says that Lord Krishna took the form of an old Sage and challenged the king who ruled over the region to a game of chess. The King, who was an expert chess player readily accepted the challenge and asked the sage what he wanted if he wont the game. The sage replied that he wanted the amount of rice grains for each square of the chessboard, each pile having double number the grains than the previous pile- One grain for the first pile, two for the second,four for the third etc. The King readilly agreed to this challenge.When the King lost he realized that the sage’s demand was not really a small one. By the time he had reached the 40th square the entire kingdoms rice reserve had finished. He calculated that when he reached the last square he would have to give the sage 18,447,744 trillion tons of rice. the sage then revealed his true form and said that the King could pay back by serving Payassam free of cost to the pilgrims visiting the temple of Ambalappuzha. The tradition continues til this very day.
Western India is famous for shrikhand, a creamy dessert made out of strained yogurt. Modak is another popular dessert of this region. Other important traditional Indian sweets and desserts,famous throughout the history of Indian food, include Gulab Jamun (a popular Indian dessert made out of fried milk balls in sweet syrup), Mysore Pak (a delicious dessert made out of clarified butter, sugar and chick pea flour, the kulfi(Indian ice cream) is made out of boiled milk and a wide variety of fruit and flower inpired flavours to go with it. The Jalebi (a common sweet dish from North India, is basically a pretzel shaped batter fried and soaked in
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Italian means pick me up..giving a lift from low spirits. Tiramisu is an Italian cake made usually with sponge cake and lady fingers soaked in a mixture of coffee of marsala, filled with marscapone cheese top with chocolate.
syrup). The Jangiri- South Indian look alike of the north Indian Jalebi. Hava made out of semolina and sugar is one of the most popular Indian desserts that have spread in every corner of the world. There is evidence of Halva in the 7th century Arabia, the word meant a paste of dates kneaded with milk. By the 9th century, it had aquired meaning of wheat flour or semolina frying or toasting and worked into a stiff paste with a sweetening agent, and stirring th mass together over gentle heat With Indians having so many options for dessert it is but natural for restaurants and other outlets despensing these sweets to add spice to their servings. And that is what they are doing literally ! From green chillies in your ice-cream to masala tea in your chocolate and vodka in your mouse cake. Mumbais sweet tooth is being tickled by the divergent taste like never before. Rodside favourites like chowpatty have been dishing out green chilli icecream and to eager crowds for quite some time. Now the exclusive eateries and five star restaurants have followed suit with a desser menu with ingredients that will perplex a newcomer but delight him aswell. Indiana Jones at Hilton towers offers green tea Ice cream with wassabi ripple. Or you could dig into some paan icecream at the Konkan Cafe. And while you are at colaba try some champagne icecream t tetsuma says buisness head Samir Chabbria : “ The whole concept of creating a signature dish works well for my restaurant. While many Japanese restaurants offer green tea Ice Cream or experiment with contrieau and other liquors,we decided to do something different’. The result is an icecream with sparkling wine for that touch of effortless exclusivity says Chabria: It has become our USP even though it is not on our menu. Tiramisu an Italian dessert is fast finding way to the Indian Palette, Particulary of the Mumbaikars. Tiramisu in
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Tracing a bit of History Tiramisu is also known as Tuscan truffle The dessert was initially created in Siena, in the northwestern Italian province of Tuscany. The occasion was a visit by Grand Duke Cosimo de’Medici III, in whose honor the concoction was dubbed zuppa del duca (the “duke’s soup. The original recipe called for custard and only recently has Mascarpone cheese (triple-creme cheese) been substituted. Mumbai is also going the Italian way. Recently, Hyatt Regency, Mumbai introduced Tiramisu in its menu as well! Many other restaurants in Mumbai are coming up with their own variation of this dessert. Says A.D. Singh, an ardent Tiramisu fan: “I love the tiramisu at Olive.”But if you take coffee out of Tiramisu is it still Tiramisu? The chefs at Juhu’s hotspot, Aurus’ say in unison; “yes”. Says the corporate chef Vikas Seth: “Instead of the coffee powder dusting, we dust the dessert with green tea. We also use green tea liqueur to soak the ladyfinger that goes into the sponge.”Looks like fusion desserts are the order of the day. Says Indiana Jones’ executive chef Joy Bhattacharya, speaking about their green tea ice cream with wasabi ripple: “Whenever we play around with our dishes we try to keep ingredients as Asian as can . The wasabi in the ice cream is not as sharp and hery as chilli but it offers a different taste to the Indian palate.” Chef Bhattachrya and his team also offer unique dishes like thandai parfait with rasmalai centre, elaichi creme brulee Banarasi paan ice cream as part of their banquet at Frangipani, Hilton Towers. Says Bhattacharya: “It’s “It’s very important for a chef to innovate with ingredients wherever possible.” And John Evans, the executive pastry chef at Bombay Baking Company, J.W. Marriott agrees with this. He has come up with several concoctions, masala tea nut clusters and mukhwas chocolates being two of them. Says Evans: “the masala tea is a hot favourite on menu. At Colaba’s Theobrama you will encounter the vodka and green chilli mousse cake and the Jamun cheese cake. Says proprietress, Kamal Messman: “I love spices and enjoy fiery hot dishes. Everything else we serve at The-
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obrama is sugary sweet so I decided to introduce something with spice.” That’s what you call adding spice to your life! As far as Indian sweets are concerned there are so many of them available in the market and the innovation has become absolutely essential if you want to be a leader. It is, therefore, not surprising to find that even the normal mithais now come in different shapes and flavours. The pistachio, once considered the prerogative of the privileged class is now common place. Says Jasminbhai Ajmera, owner of Ramanlal Vithaldas Mewawala, located near Juma Masjid, Mumbai, “The demand for dry fruits has gone up. It is no longer a luxury but a necessity.” With buyers becoming more choosy the demand for Peshawari pistachio and the flat mamra badam from Iran is increasing as the sweetmeat vendors are using them to woo their customers. The discerning buyer is aware that you can tell Peshawari pistachio from the other by simply splitting the mithai. If you find a light green tinge instead of the blue hue you know it has the best nuts from across the world. Dry fruits are also increasingly being used in the mithais. Unusual combinations and novel names are now being bandied in the sweetmeat market. The almond-cashew- pistachio roll has been christened as badam tacoz, as it is shaped like the Mexican taco.Interestingly, the variety doesn’t end with what the mithaiwalla has on menu. If you have some =permutations of your own you can get him to make it for you Says Ravi Lulla of Jhama Sweets in Chembur: “Customised mithais usually have a pure gold leaf over them instead of the usual silver varakh” There is also a choice for the weight conscious with sugar-free options. Says Bunty Mahajan of Deliciae, a dessert cafe in Bandra: “Cakes are an ideal option for gifting. Very often, people gift cakes instead of mithai for special occasions.” Whatever be your option for desserts, one thing is sure: the range, the presentation and even the taste has undergone a sea change from the time of our grandfathers. In fact there may come a time when you wouldn’t know whether what you are biting into is a sweet, sour, or a spicy dessert. Would the Gods say that you are getting your just desserts for all the worldly ways that you have adopted?
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