Europe's Famous Hostels Magazine Spring/Summer by Europe's Famous Hostels

Launch Issue

Summer 2011

Your travel companion

INTRODUCTION

Welcome! A very warm welcome to the first edition of the Europe’s Famous Hostels travel magazine. With 31 one of a kind hostels in 17 countries and thousands of backpackers coming through the doors every day, it seemed criminal not to have a free magazine for you to read over breakfast and to take away as brain food for those long bus, train, and plane trips.

In this edition Berlin expert Paul Scraton uncovers Berlin’s ever-so-trendy Prenzlauer Berg District, Zoë Bowthorpe sidles over to Seville to tackle the lesserknown side of Andalucia and Piers Leonard delves into all things Latvian during a brief encounter with Riga. You can also enjoy unadulterated and expert guides to London, Naples, Athens, Nice and Rotterdam, and if you’re a fan of festivals then you’re going to love the round up feature on page 13 - previewing everything from Poland’s Open’er Festival in Gdjnia to Sziget Fest in Budapest! Until next time I leave you with one of my favourite travel quotes, shared with the world by author Eudora Welty: “It was through travel that I found my own introspective way into becoming a part of the outside world.”

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Editor Robert Savage Cover Illustration, EFH Illustrations & Design Alexis Bainger Production & Design Zoë Bowthorpe Christopher Gj Cooley Writers Paul Scraton Robert Savage Zoë Bowthorpe Harriet Driver Albert von dem Bussche Sophie Herbert Piers Leonard Christopher Gj Cooley Carolina Montero Damian Irizarry Annick Woldring

Special Thanks Romain Viennois Alexis Bainger Eoin Norton Duncan Robertson Tuguldur Baatar Jana Kolaříková Murray Roberts Tom Brookes Wojtek Bronikowski Darrel Biggs André Oliveira Alex Pepene Lili Dempster Jaroslav Kozdera Adeline Poussin All at Room, Rotterdam The Exec. All our member hostels and their fantastic staff.

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Printed & distributed by Jellyfish.com, UK Published by Europe’s Famous Hostels, Parracelsusstrasse 9, A-5020, Salzburg, Austria All opinions expressed herein represent the individual and are not necessarily those held by Europe’s Famous Hostels or their individual members. No part of this magazine may be replicated without permission. Any infringement of copyright will be pursued. All photographs are courtesy of those credited & sxc.hu For enquiries & submissions please contact: info@famoushostels.com

www.famoushostels.com

RIGA LOCH NESS EDINBURGH

DUBLIN

AMSTERDAM

CARDIFF

BERLIN

ROTTERDAM

LONDON

BRUGES

PARIS

PRAGUE VIENNA

MUNICH BAD GASTEIN

SALZBURG

BUDAPEST

INTERLAKEN RIMINI NICE

Rome Corfu

Barcelona

Napoli

Madrid

Granada

extraordinary hostels in europe's most

exciting destinations

• Amsterdam, The Flying Pig • Barcelona, Kabul Youth Hostel • Budapest, Maverick Hostel • Dublin, Avalon House Hostel • Interlaken, Balmer's Herberge • London, St Christopher's Inn • Nice, Villa Saint Exupery • Prague, Czech Inn • Rome, Alessandro Palace & Bar • Sevilla, Oasis Backpackers' Hostel • Vienna, Hostel Ruthensteiner

book your famous bed online

***

Sorrento

Valencia

Lisbon

Sevilla

Athens

• Athens, AthenStyle Hostel • Berlin, The Circus Hostel • Cardiﬀ, Nosda Backpacker Hostel • Edinburgh, St Christopher's Inn • Lisbon, Oasis Backpackers' Mansion • Madrid, Cat's Hostel • Naples, Hostel of the Sun • Riga, Friendly Fun Frank's Hostel • Rotterdam, Hostel ROOM • Sorrento, Seven Hostel

with no

booking fees

• Bad Gastein, Euro Youth Hotel • Bruges, Bauhaus International • Corfu, Pink Palace Hostel • Granada, Oasis Backpackers' Hostel • Loch Ness, Morag’s Lodge Hostel • Munich, Euro Youth Hotel • Paris, St Christopher's Inn • Rimini, Sunﬂower Beach Hostel • Salzburg, Yoho International Hostel • Valencia, Hôme Youth Hostel

Summer 2011

Photographs courtesy of Damian Irizarry, Zoë Bowthorpe, and Eoin Norton.

MAGAZINE

Your travel companion

e d i s In s i h T . . . e Issu

CHECK-IN

BRIEF ENCOUNTERS

GO NATIVE

04. Travel News & the Latest Tips from Across the Globe 07. New Famous Hostels

15. A Weekend in Rotterdam 33. 24 Hours in Riga 46. An Athenian Odyssey

34. Explore Beautiful Lisbon 42. Three Days in Naples

TOUCH DOWN

DISCOVER

08. Dublin’s Top 10 Pubs 10. London’s Must See Attractions This Summer

CONTENTS

Launch Issue

LONG HAUL

26. Berlin: Exploring the Trendy Prenzlauer Berg District 38. Seville: Andalucía 18. The Nicest Parts of Nice 20. Top 10 Romantic Getaways Uncovered 25. Postcards from Prague FINAL CALL 31. Surf and Turf: Fun on and off the Beach 13. Summer Festivals - Your Guide to Europe’s Top Festivals 48. Sporting Highlights The Biggest Sporting Events of the Summer www.famoushostels.com

CHECK-IN

Stop the Press!

Ironman - Zurich 10th July! If you haven’t had enough feats of incredible endurance (we know how exhausting watching them can be) then Zurich is hosting its annual Ironman tournament in July. That’s a 3.8km swim, followed by a 180km cycle - all topped off with a 42.2km run. Easy… Get some passion in your life! International Tango Festival in Syracuse, Sicily, 21st - 24th July China predicted to be world’s number 1 tourist destination by 2015, say WYSE Pulp confirmed for Melt Festival 15th - 17th July 2011, Ferropolis, Germany Liquids to be allowed on planes into Europe from non-EU countries from April 2011 Strewth! Flood tax to be levied on Australians earning over $50,000 Big City Lights: Chinese authorities planning ‘super-city’ 26(!)times the size of Greater London. That’s the same size as Switzerland Havana Laugh: Obama to ease travel restrictions between US and Cuba Quid pro quo: EU and Russia negotiating visa restrictions with the aim of visa-free travel VisitScotland boss considering ‘voluntary tourist tax’ in Edinburgh to help ease council expenses during festival easyJet opened a new route between London and Seville in April, home of our friends Oasis Backpackers’ Mansion ‘Can You See What It Is Yet?’ British Museum announces Australian Season, dedicated to Aussie art! Azerbaijan wins the 2011 Eurovision Song Contest! Va va vroom! The glamorous Formula 1 season is upon us - check out our sporting guide for COMPETITION TIME! where to catch a piece of the action! Tour STAY FOR FREE at Avalon House, de France 2nd – 24th July. The race for the Dublin! All you have to do is take yellow jersey returns in the biggest and most a photo of yourself with the ‘I love hotly-contested cycling battle in the world. Avalon’ sign somewhere unusual. A mammoth event that takes in so much The best photo of France, wherever you are you’ll be hard each month wins pressed to miss it. A total of 461 British free accommodabeaches have been awarded the top “recomtion, gets posted mended” gong for having excellent bathing on the website, water quality! June 2011 sees Sunflower Beach Hostel becoming the 31st Famous Hos- and framed in the tel! Late this June & July Granada sees the hall of fame for all eternity! Fiesta del Albayzin (Festival of the Albaicin) roll around. Morag’s Lodge in Loch Ness launches a Pedal Power campaign! Details can be found at www.famoushostels.com

Off track Planet - the online travel community and magazine - has awarded the accolade of “Biggest Party Hostels Around the World 2011’’ to four of Europe’s Famous Hostels! Congratulations Kabul Hostel Barcelona, Balmer’s Herberge - Switzerland, Friendly Fun Frank’s - Riga, and The Flying Pig - Amsterdam. You know where the party’s at!! See offtrackplanet.com for more! www.famoushostels.com

In Other News HAPPY 5TH BIRTHDAY ROOM, ROTTERDAM! Your favourite place to sleep, party and relax turned 5 years old at the end of June! Come and sleep with someone famous and kick off their fabulous 5th year in fine style - see www.roomrotterdam.nl for details.

Belushi’s Turns 18 and Celebrates with a Seven Week Birthday Party! Believe it or not Belushi’s bars have been around since 1993 and on August 18, 2011, they turn eighteen! In true Belushi’s style there’s going to be a humdinger of a party at every Belushi’s in Europe, but before that there’s a chance to win a Belushi’s European tour and amazing amounts of Amazon vouchers, in the sevenweek build up. You should also expect price crashing good times on all your favourite drinks and burgers – as voted for by you and on the big night, Belushi’s Brothers tribute bands will be playing at every venue! Join the party between July 4 and August 18. www.belushis.com

AND ... HAPPY 3RD BIRTHDAY TO ATHENSTYLE FOR JUNE! To celebrate their 3rd birthday AthenStyle hosted capoeira and samba on their panoramic rooftop!

Travel News What’s new in the travel world? PARIS PLAGE : July 21 to August 21 Every summer the banks of the river Seine are transformed into sandy beaches decked out with sun loungers, volleyball nets, concert spaces and much more, for a whole month! Play petanque, sip a cocktail or simply soak up some rays! Better yet a big stretch of the sandy fun happens just outside of our EFH hostel - St Christopher’s Inn Paris, on the banks of the beautiful Canal de l’Ourcq. Bring your bucket and spade, and get stuck in.

NEW BOOK PUBLISHED ON BACKPACKING On May 26th Room Hostel in Rotterdam hosted a book launch of 'IAMABACKPACKER.' This book is for anyone interested in backpacking and backpackers! With 680 pages, 100 portraits, 100 interviews and much more. Tell us what your favourite famous hostel is and why to win a signed copy. E-mail: info@famoushostels.com

MORAG’S LODGE IN TEAM AWARDS Morag’s Lodge, Loch Ness, was recently short-listed for ‘Team of the Year’ by the Institute of Hospitality. Congratulations for being recognised as one of the best hospitality teams in the UK!

Did you know?

Hostelworld.com runs its own version many of the oscars - The Hoscars - and 2011 saw els! going to members of Europe’s Famous Host

THE GLITZ AND GLAMOUR Attending the prestigious 2011 Hoscars ceremony were the créme-de-la créme of the hostelling circuit, all looking incredibly glamourous! The awards are voted for by over 1 million Hostelworld cutomers. Congratulations to Fun Friendly Frank’s, Riga, Hostel of the Sun, Naples, Oasis Backpackers’ , Seville, Villa Saint Exupéry Gardens, Nice, Flying Pig Downtown, Amsterdam & the St Christopher’s Inn, Paris microsite team.

10 Ways to meet people on the road Independent travel is a thrill and a half but it can get lonely too. With that in mind here are ten top tips to help you make new buddies - wherever you go. 1. Check your hostel’s web site before you arrive. Many of them plan fun nights well in advance so if you know there’s going to be a party, you can plan to be a part of it. 2. Unless you’re intent on treating yourself, skip the single rooms. Sharing a dorm is a great way to meet new people and borrow the toothpaste you always forget. 3. Ask about the tours available from reception. Spending a few hours in the company of like minded explorers is a great way to bond and the group photos are a nice memento too. 4. Engage in a bit of banter with the bar staff. Most of these guys are backpackers too and they know all the fun characters to hang out with. Also there’s bound to be a few staff members around who aren’t on duty and up for making new friends. 5. When you’re done with the book you’re reading, don’t buy another one. Instead try swapping it with other hostellers. These trades are a great conversation starter and you can save a buck too. 6. Karaoke might be cringe worthy, but it’s a nice focal point in bars and chill out rooms alike. You’d be surprised at the strength of bonds, based on joint public embarrassment. 7. Don’t let home sickness get the better of you. If you’ve set up an online Blog for your folks to follow, share it with the other hostellers in the internet café, and make everyone a part of your fun on the road. 8. Get involved behind the scenes. If you’re sticking around in one place and need some cash - a lot of hostels recruit backpackers for reception and bar work. What better way to meet kindred spirits? 9. If you see another lone traveller at the bar, bite the bullet and buy them a drink. One simple act of kindness goes a long way and your new buddy feels obliged to buy you a drink too! 10. Look up distant relatives, long lost pen pals and other friends from home who happen to be on the same road. Mixing a familiar face into your new crowd of friends is always fun - because you’ll have lots of new experiences to rave about. www.famoushostels.com

CHECK-IN

CHECK-IN The Top 10 Items Essential for Backpacking Europe Preparing to travel around Europe isn’t like preparing for a trek through the Amazonian Jungle,however there are a few essential items that you could find yourself relying on time and time again, making your trip a much smoother journey. Here are the top 10 items for your packing list, by Sophie Herbert. 1. Silk Sleeping Bag Liner Perfect for when you don’t get any sheets and super light for those hot summer nights.

2. Inflatable Travel Pillow Essential to get a good night sleep on those long journeys and proves a good prop for your derrière when it starts to go numb.

3. Micro-fiber Towel Light and dries in an instant.

4. Power Monkey YoHo-TNT2 08.03.11 16:11 Seite 1

SALZBURG AUSTRIA

An indispensable travel companion to provide your travel gadgets with power when stuck on long journeys or in the midst of it all.

5. Spork It’s in the name and yes, fundamentally essential.

6. Swiss Army Knife So many functions in a tiny tool, useful for cutting, filing, and most importantly - cracking open your beers on the beach.

7. Washing Line

Save the pennies and let the fresh air dry your pants.

8. Universal Sink Plug Essential for a good shave - also useful when you fancy a bit of hand washing.

9. Travel Adaptor Should go without saying.

10. Day Pack with a water dispenser

The Hostel www.yoho.at

Perfect for trips to the museum or beach and can provide a light refreshment during the midday sun.

HOSTELS THAN

EVER BEFORE! Even more opportunities to sleep with someone famous! Go on give them a try...

Oasis Backpackers’ Oasis Backpackers’ Hostel, Granada A new generation of hostel, located amidst the ancient cobblestone corridors and candle lit teashops of Granada’s enchanting Arabic quarter, the Albaicyn. During the day, the streets are full of life with Moroccan markets, street musicians, and sunny plazas. After sun set it’s all about the city center’s nightlife, bursting with bars, cafés and clubs.

Sunflower Beach Sunflower Beach Hostel, Rimini The Sunflower Beach Backpacker Hostel is the best

party hostel on the beach. Situated in the heart of the Adriatic coast, it’s only 200m from the beautiful sandy beach and mere minutes on foot from nearby nightclubs, pubs, cafes, and restaurants. The sea front location is near to the hottest night spots in Rimini and the second location is in the historic Old Town.

The Maverick The Maverick, Budapest Budapest is a city of history, sophistication and beauty, and our hostel there is no different. Occupying a former royal mansion built by the Habsburg dynasty, retaining many of its original features, this really is a step above your average youth hostel. Built around a quiet courtyard, yet bang in the centre of town and 2 minutes walk from the river, the Maverick offers the perfect calm respite from a day spent in the Hungarian capital.

Hostel of the Sun Hostel of the Sun, Naples Travel experts and guests have grown to love their experiences at Hostel of the Sun. Some make a trip down to Naples just to stay with us; others end up extending their stay after experiencing our hostel’s super-friendly, laid-back and social atmosphere. Great location, award winning staff, a beautiful city - what’s not to love?

Oasis Backpackers’ Oasis Backpackers’ Hostel, Sevilla Oasis Sevilla is located in the heart of Sevilla and it has everything you need and

much more. Here you’ll find helpful staff and a welcoming atmosphere! Our staff are well versed in the art of travelling and will help you fall in love with this lively city. Whether you are searching for the best tapas bars, the best Flamenco, a walking tour of Sevilla’s rich history, or you just want to use our windows to peer out onto the Semana Santa Procession, you’re welcome.

Seven Hostel Seven Hostel, Sorrento Located in a stunning position overlooking the Bay of Naples, Seven Hostel will defy all your expectations of a hostel. Decorated to the highest standards, the hostel has a young, fresh feel, perfectly in harmony with its setting of the ancient 19th century building. The roof top panoramic bar offers views of the Bay of Naples, Vesuvius, Sorrento’s surrounding cliffs and the nearby islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida. www.famoushostels.com

CHECK-IN

MORE FAMOUS

TOUCH DOWN 08

Dublin's Top 10 Pubs! If this year’s St Patrick’s Day left you with a thirst, Carolina Montero’s expert advice will guide you to your perfect pint.

The Porterhouse

Let’s start with the beer on offer at this Brewery pub - from session beer Porterhouse Red to the 7% Brain Blasta, the selection here is unrivalled. That’s without even touching on the hundreds of bottled beers from around the world. The lunch and evening menus are first class (including a brilliant Irish Stew) and there’s live music most nights. There’s also good news for all the London-ites out there because they’re opening a sister-pub in Covent Garden in 2011. This watering hole in Dublin is the best place to be night or day, it stays open until 2.00am as, brings home international awards and keeps the indie flag flying high on the pub circuit.

Mulligans

Maybe it’s the fact that they serve what is unquestionably the best pint of Guinness you will get anywhere in the world. Maybe it’s the friendliness and professionalism of the staff. Maybe it’s the big tables in the back room, where you will be powerless to resist chatting away to some brand spanking new friends. Maybe it’s all of these things, but needless to say, Mulligans is special. You’ll find this one on Poolbeg Street.

The Palace

In at number three we have a venue that was described in The Observer newspaper back in 1998 as: “an almost perfect pub.” It serves what must be among the top 3 pints of Guinness in town, it’s Part of Temple Bar and a popular hang out for journalists, and writer types - not too different from the Groucho Club over in London. You can usually grab a table here at lunchtime, the menu is tasty and inexpensive, and if The Palace were anywhere other than Dublin it might well be the best hang out in town.

www.famoushostels.com

McDaid’s

This is the former haunt of Brendan Behan and Paddy Kavanagh, among other literary giants. Better still McDaid’s is also just off Grafton Street making it an ideal place to seek solace after spending too much on the retail strip. There is an excellent upstairs area ideal for parties, book launches and leaving dos, but whatever the occasion it’s impossible to stop people drifting along to the intimate bar downstairs. The literary connections make you feel like you’re doing something cultural, the toasted sandwiches are superb and if you need a little heavy metal disco to finish your day off, you can nip across the road to Bruxelles!

Davy Byrnes

Go on a Saturday and spend all afternoon here! They show all the latest scores during the football (soccer) season at this pub - mentioned more than once in the novel Ulysses by James Joyce, although you’d never know it from the modern décor. Davy Byrnes attracts an amazing crowd of locals, tourists and everyone in between. You’ll find it just off Grafton Street, serving up first-rate food and a great atmosphere for meeting, and chatting with, eccentrics!

Keoghs

Like most pubs to make the top 10, this choice makes a point of being free from piped in music. There’s a bell to call for pints and the upstairs bar is probably the finest room in Dublin, in which to sit down with a nice drink. At the risk of sounding cliché, the craic here is always good. There’s also a piano and usually someone attempting to play it, so instead of listening to Pop pumped out through a jukebox, you’re more likely to get crowds of people singing The Fields of Athenry. It can get crowded but Keoghs enriches any visit to Dublin.

Photograph courtesy of www.sxc.hu

The Long Hall

The Long Hall is worth a visit for three reasons - the superb bar staff, the cracking Guinness and the mirrors. This is in fact a pub of mirrors - large, small, distorted, clean and dirty. It’s a popular place for an after-work session and a good antidote to the more trendy – pose and be seen posing pubs - across town. It’s also an ideal stopping off point if you’re heading to Whelan’s or The Village to see a band.

Messrs Maguire

This is a new pub serving real beer! Yes that’s right - a new trend in Dublin is brewing wonderful real ales on the premises and Messrs Maguire (along with The Porterhouse) is leading the way. The Rusty Ale is delicious, smooth, tasty and infinitely more-ish. The Haus lager is equally wonderful and they don’t serve Guinness – something of a rarity in Dublin! The food here ranges from generous bar snacks to full-blown restaurant meals and the view over O’Connell Bridge is fabulous. Attracting a young-ish but discerning crowd and likely to be mobbed at the weekends - Messrs Maguire is an excellent addition to Dublin’s pub circuit.

9 Sackville Lounge This is a personal favourite and the only north-side pub to make the Top 10. It’s an oasis and the only place where you are guaranteed a seat, along with quick service on a weekend. It looks like it was transported from the 1950s, the Guinness is exquisite and the bar is cosy. Expect a lively and eclectic bunch of

drinkers, actors and all sorts, not to mention Fintan the barman who could easily be the best barman in Dublin. His standards of service are second to none and he’s a laugh too. If you fancy a pint and a ponder, or a quiet chat head for this place.

The Brazen Head Pub

This is the oldest pub in Dublin and a must for every publover. It’s also the only one in Dublin with a courtyard and one of the only pubs in central Dublin where you can drink outside if the sun’s shining. With warm fires and welcoming staff this is also an excellent to try out on a chilly winter’s eve. The GuinFamous spot ness here is among the best you’ll find and the HOSTELS food is basic but substantial. The Brazen Head is divided into several rooms, some big and some small, but all with a great atmosphere. It attracts a mixed clientele - a characteristic of all the best pubs in Dublin, so expect young trendy-ites, city workers, tourists, tea drinkers, locals, country-folk and even priests! You’ll find everyone there getting on with the business in hand – that being having a pint and putting the world to rights.

To enjoy a pint at any of these pubs or discover your own favourite pubs in Dublin come to stay at Avalon House in the heart of the city. www.avalon-house.ie

TOUCH DOWN

TOUCH DOWN 10

Touch Down: London, England Even a flying visit to the English capital should take in certain essential sights. Here’s what not to miss on any trip to the ever lovely London, by Robert Savage Must Sees There are some things that you just have to do when you come to London and chief among these is pay pilgrimage to the nation’s seat of democracy, the Houses of Parliament. This is also a good starting point for a walking tour of the capital’s West End. Head up Whitehall from Parliament Square, taking in Downing Street along the way, and Trafalgar Square, home of the National Gallery, and Nelson’s Column. Make your way through the pigeons and tourists to the Mall, and follow it to Buckingham Palace, stopping to admire the Queen’s Guard. From here it’s a short walk to Hyde Park, where you can rest your weary feet amid the swans, joggers and squirrels.

Art Galleries

The Renaissance was late reaching Britain, but nevertheless London is home to some of the best art galleries in the world. In the centre of town, flanked by Soho and the Strand, lies the National Gallery, one of the greatest collections of Western European art in the world. This is in no small part thanks to Leonardo da Vinci’s The Madonna of The Tate Modern the Rocks, which experts are still studying in an attempt to uncover the many beguiling secrets behind it. Don’t forThis former power station is renowned for pushing get to check out the National Portrait Gallery next the boundaries of contemporary art and for the door for a free collection and contempory exhi“Pick up provocative installations in the old turbine bitions. From the National Gallery it’s a short rare, vintage fashhall. Past favourites have included Louise ion throwbacks in Spi- bus ride west along the river to the Tate BritBourgeois’s giant spider and the massive crack in the floor, entitled Shibboleth by talfields Market, munch ain, which is also free. This is the home of British art dating back to 1500 and worth sculptor Salcedo. For an extra bit of artistic on a spit roast, and see visiting for the Turner collection alone. For fun, hit the roof terrace bar for a drink with the arts and crafts that something a little different, continue along one of the best views in London. put its counterpart in the river and head up Chelsea Bridge Road Camden to shame” to Sloane Square. Here, you’ll find the Saatchi Spitalfields Market Gallery, dedicated to exhibiting the best modern art from around the world. This is an East End gem that caters to travellers who like to experience real retail innovation, without sky high Borough Market price tags. It’s been voted London’s best market for two years in a row now and when you check out the stalls, eaterAt this food market you’ll find great artisan stalls, supplying ies and indie shops lining the avenues here, you can see why. gastronomic delights from around the world. Special menPick up rare, vintage fashion throwbacks, munch on a spit tion must go to Monmouth cafe, serving up what is without roast, see the arts and crafts that put this market’s countera doubt London’s best cup of coffee. Located next to London part in Camden to shame, and chill out in an unpresuming Bridge and close to the river just behind Southwark Cathebar in nearby Brick Lane when you’re done. dral, Borough Market is a destination in itself and a good watering-hole on the walk along the south bank of the river.

The Theatre Scene

Seeing a show can be a daunting event when you rock up in the British capital and if you’re unfortunate enough to be taken advantage of by the ticket touts in Leicester Square, you can end up paying big bucks to see the big shows. However, top productions like Mamma Mia and Wicked can be seen from good seats for as little as £30 per person. Also away from the West End, London stages are known for exciting, cutting edge productions so don’t be afraid to stray off the beaten path. A good place to buy tickets online for the majority of West End productions is www. lastminute.com

www.famoushostels.com

Bike Around Town While many Londoners move around London underground (it’s not called the rat race for nothing), as a visitor your preferred mode of transport is your choice. You might not think the city centre is very bike friendly but with the massive expanse of royal parks, you can easily explore for three or four hours on two pedal powered wheels, without hitting the road for more than ten minutes in total! If you don’t trust your navigating skills, Fat Tire Bike Tours offer guided tours around London’s glorious parks and sights, with scheduled pub stops for lunch and refreshments. www.fattirebiketours.com/london

Thanks to a history of colonialism and a rather fluid approach to the idea of ownership, London is now home to countless treasures from all over the globe. Handily for us, many of these are now far too precious to be transported and so, to account for this injustice, the majority of London’s museums are free. Chief among these is the British Museum in Bloomsbury, home to countless, priceless artefacts from around the world, including the Elgin Marbles from the ancient Parthenon, statues belonging to the boy king Tutankhamun, and the Viking findings of Sutton Hoo. In South Kensington there’s a whole host of museums, all free and covering many cultural happenings. For example the Natural History Museum exhibits wonders from the natural world and just over the road the Victoria & Albert Museum is home to man-made wonders. Often overlooked but never underappreciated, the Wallace Collection just off Oxford Street crams more into its small space than many cities can muster all together.

Walk the River Thames The Thames was once the industrial lifeline that kept London thriving, but these days it’s filled with tourist cruises rather than merchant ships. The river banks are well worth exploring so start at the Tower of London, the final resting place of history’s political prisoners and now home to the Crown Jewels. From here, cross the magnificent Tower Bridge to the South Bank, head west through Borough Market to the riverside, and enjoy a refreshing pint in one of

the many Bankside inns. Heading west along the river, you’ll pass the reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, the Tate Modern, the National Theatre and the Royal Festival Hall. The latter two aren’t much to look at from the outside but the daily billings more than make up for this. Just before Westminster Bridge you’ll hit the (EDF Energy) London Eye, a huge Ferris Wheel which offers some of the best views of London. This gets very busy so book in advance to avoid missing out. www.londoneye.com

Shopping Where you choose to shop in London can reveal a lot about you to others. For example, while some will queue up overnight to hit the flagship high street stores on Oxford Street and buy the latest trends at bargain prices, others prefer to root through the stalls of Portobello Road or Camden Market in the hope of finding a one-off, vintage gem. The area around Covent Garden, originally a fruit and vegetable market, has been developed to accommodate all retail requirements, with perhaps the most diverse range of shops in the smallest area, anywhere in London. From little known foreign brands to established labels and sought-after designer boutiques, you’ll find it in these cobbled back streets. The truly luxurious shops tend to be located around Mayfair and particularly on Bond Street, which is great for window-shopping if not actually buying anything. To book a room at St. Christopher’s Inn visit: www.famoushostels.com/london-hostel

TOUCH DOWN

Museums

Loch Ness

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A round-up of the best festivals this Summer!

FINAL CALL

Best of the Fests Open’er

Rock Werchter

Running of the Bulls

Oxegen

Gdjnia, Poland June 30 - July 3

Werchter, Belgium June 30 - July 3

Pamplona, Spain July 6-14

Punchestown, Ireland

Held on Babie Doly Airfield, on the Baltic coast, hosting Poland’s brightest young stars as well as international headliners (M.I.A, Deadmau5...). Winner of the 2010 Europe Festival Awards.

Festival heavyweights Coldplay, Kings of Leon and Chemical Brothers rock and roll into Werchter. There are also spots for soon-tobe-festival-champions like James Blake and OFWGKTA.

A traditional festival that sees the daring chased by bulls running through the narrow streets. A thrilling spectacle, but not for the faint hearted! The bulls finish in the stadium for the finale (and theirs).

Ireland’s biggest music festival boasts one of the summer’s most eclectic line-ups featuring everyone from the Arctic Monkeys to Beyonce - and the Black Eyed Peas to the Foo Fighters.

Nice Jazz Festival Nice, France July 8-12

Bastille Day

Latitude

Ghent Festivities

Paris, France July 14

Suffolk, UK July 14-17

Ghent, Belgium July 16-25

Created in 1948, this annual festival welcomes some of the world’s most reputable Jazz performers. Nice sees the Place Masséna, Théâtre de Verdure and Albert 1er Garden taken over with quality performers.

The perfect place to celebrate French independence. The day opens with a parade, the party then continues through the day and into the night with a spectacular fireworks display.

A new but much loved addition to the British Summer. The line-up goes well beyond music to cover literature, comedy, poetry, film, theatre, cabaret, art, dance, opera and fashion.

Ten days of festivities in this medieval centre, with Europe’s biggest festival. Over 1.5 million people are expected to see the music, dance, theatre, puppetry and parades.

Salzburg Festival

Edinburgh Fringe

Sziget Fest

Salzburg, Austria July 27-August 30

Edinburgh, UK August 5-29

Budapest, Hungary August 8-15

For a more high minded experience try the Salzburg Festival of Arts and Culture. Held in the birthplace of Mozart and running for almost a month, there is no excuse to miss this one!

The world’s largest arts festival caters for all tastes of comedy and music as famous faces and unknown talent waiting to be discovered, take to stages across the Scottish city.

Held on an island in the middle of the Danube between Buda and Pest, Sziget is right in the city centre. With over 1000 bands, bungee jumping and a swimming pool, it claims to be Europe’s biggest party.

V Festival

La Tomatina

Rock en Seine

Oktoberfest

Weston Park & Hylands Park, UK August 20-21

Valencia, Spain August 25

Paris, France August 26-28

Munich, Germany 17th Sept - 3rd Oct

Over a hundred metric tons of over-ripe tomatoes are the amunition for a harmless battle in the streets of Buñol near Valencia. You can also expect music, fireworks, parades and a paella cooking contest.

The Domaine National de Saint-Cloud where the festival takes place is classified as a national French monument. Keeping green the festival uses recycled cups - however the line-up is not for hippies ... expect Rock!

Oktoberfest is to beer loving adults across the word what Easter with its chocolate is to kids. Millions of revellers drain Munich’s beer barrels. Steins will be clinking and all will be drinking!

With locations in the north and the south of the UK, no matter where you are based in August, V festival will be nearby with an awesome line up of pop music’s big hitters.

July 8-10

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BRIEF ENCOUNTER

Brief Encounter: Rotterdam, Netherlands This Dutch port town is celebrated for an enthusiastic art scene, avant-garde architecture and its buzzing night life. Annick Woldring reveals hip Rotterdam. Rotterdam is different from the other cities in Holland. During World War II, the whole centre of Rotterdam was bombed and the historical centre destroyed. Some people say Rotterdam doesn’t have a heart anymore - but ask a local and they will tell you differently!

Culture Most of the museums in Rotterdam are located around Museumpark. Here you can find the Museum Boijmans van Beuningen - they have their own collection but also different exhibitions that change every few weeks. The NAI is the Museum of Architecture and gives a history of how Rotterdam has rebuilt itself following WWII. In the city you will find examples of daring modern architecture, such as the famous Cube Houses (Kubuswoningen) at Blaak. These vertiginous structures are built over a pedestrian bridge and have the appearance of defying gravity.

Nieuwe Binnenweg you can find vintage clothe and furniture shops, good food, bars and coffee shops.

Night Life

Rotown is the most famous bar in Rotterdam. It’s good for The Witte de WithStraat is one of the most famous eating, drinking, live music and dancing. The new streets in Rotterdam. A street that used to have a club, Perron, is close to the train station and “Rotown is bad image, of gambling and hookers, has now easy to reach. If you like a more unique party, the most famous been transformed into the most popular and cultural street in Rotterdam. Here you can bar in Rotterdam. It’s than follow MAVV (www.MAVV.com). They find many galleries and the popular bar De good for eating, drink- bring a new experience to Rotterdam! Witte Aap (White Monkey) - once named by ing, live music and dancLonely Planet as the best bar in the world! ing. If you like a more Dutch Delight

Must Sees

unique party, then To get a really Dutch meal you should go to follow MAVV.” Eethuisje Delfshaven. This is a well known

In Rotterdam you can see two different sides. Delfshaven in the west comprises the historical part of the city and in the east the focus is on modernism. Walking along the river affords incongruous views of these opposites on either side. At night the Erasmus Bridge, a 139m kinked pylon structure nicknamed ‘The Swan’, is well worth a visit. A symbol of Rotterdam and it’s modernisation, this bridge has views of the amazing skyline and panoramic views. Rotterdam still has one of the biggest ports in the world and this can be best seen from the water. You can tour it by boat (Spido) with a guide which also provides great views of the city from the water. On the other side, Kinderdijk is famous for its windmills which are open for visits.

Shopping Every Tuesday and Saturday there is a popular market at Blaaks selling vintage clothing and furniture. There’s also a wide selection of world food available. If you would like to try something Dutch: try old cheese (oude kaas) or herring (haring). From the market you can walk straight into the heart of the city’s shopping district. On

Dutch restaurant in the historical part of the city. Go early, because most people eat around 6pm and the place gets packed. The restaurant even closes at 8pm! Owned by a Dutch couple, the atmosphere and food is great and they’re always friendly, and open to new people.

You can also get a Dutch snack out of ‘de muur’, which means the wall. At snack bars they have walls that house snacks like a ‘frikandel, a kroket or a kipcorn’.

Useful Information Language: Dutch, English widely spoken Currency: Euro Getting There: Rotterdam airport is 15 minutes from the

center, and Amsterdam airport is only 30 minutes away. Trains also go to mainland Europe, with regular services to Belgium, France and Germany. Going Out: The coffee shops and bars in the centre are inexpensive, with beer generally costing 2.20 euros. There are also free music events. Where To Stay: Room is an award winning hostel located by the port in the city centre. Book through www.famoushostels.com/Rotterdam

DISCOVER 18

Nice Neighbours From the vibrant city of Nice on the French Riviera, some of the coast’s most stunning sites can be found in the hills above.

St Paul de Vence The most visited village in France, St Paul-de-Vence was the centre of Impressionism at the beginning of the 20th century. This walled village in the hills above Nice has lots of small streets, is great for exploring and provides spectacular panoramic views of the Mediterranean. The main street, Rue Grande, runs the entire length of the village and the 16th century buildings are not only interesting viewing, but house some fantastic antique shops, art studios, gift shops, cafes and restaurants. The museum Fondation Maeght, located 500 metres (9-14 Euros entry) below the village is a stunning piece of architecture, not to be missed during a trip to St Paul-de-Vence.

Monaco The Principality of Monaco is a separate country to France and the second smallest country in the world, with an area of less than two square kilometres! It’s famous for the world renown Monte Carlo Casino, Monaco Grand Prix, yachts, Prince Ranier III, Grace Kelly and a tax free lifestyle that only a lot of money can buy! This principality nestles between France and Italy with an exquisite panorama of hills and the Mediterranean coast. If you are interested to see the best that money can buy then head to the Avenue de Monte Carlo which leads down the hill to the port where you can admire luxury yachts and stop for a drink at one of the many cafes along the way. For a touch of royalty, head to the south end of the port and visit the Palais Du Prince, on rue des Ramparts. The Changing of the Guard here occurs daily at 11:55am. The Monaco St Nicholas Cathewww.famoushostels.com

dral built in 1875 on the site of a medieval church is also worth a visit, in the historic quarter of Monaco Ville.

Grasse This is the capital of the perfume industry since the days of the Renaissance, and three quarters of the world’s perfumes, and essences are produced here. Grasse is surrounded by Rose and Jasmine fields and you can take a tour of a number of perfumeries where you’ll be showered with a wealth of information about the perfume making process. You can of course buy perfumes here too. Parfumerie Fragonard offer tours every 20 minutes as well as a museum where you can see perfume-preserved mummies, among other attractions!

Eze Village Eze is a spectacular Medieval stone village on a 427m peak, heading towards Monaco. With only one gate in and out of this walled village, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back into the Middle Ages. Check out the Cactus Gardens at the top of Eze for incredible views of the Med’ or enjoy a (rather pricey) drink on the cliff top terrace at the Chèvre d’Or Hotel. Rest assured the view is definitely worth the price of the drink!

Entrevaux Entrevaux is a stunning, ancient medieval city founded in the 11th century and fortified in the 17th. Located in the Alps of the Côte d’Azur and on the banks of the river Var, the first walls in this town (both military and civilian) are still intact. Access to the Citadel (high on the hills, 5 Euros entry) is fascinating due to the drawbridge and nine zigzaging ramps. Tall and narrow houses, little public squares and ancient fountains are surrounded by splendid landscapes, olive groves and terraced gardens. For more information see villahostels.com

Photograph courtesy of www.sxc.hu

Albert von dem Bussche explores the nicest parts of Nice.

DISCOVER

Explore the Heart of Europe 1

Paris

Claiming the crown as the world’s most romantic city, Paris is the perfect backdrop for hand holding and nose nuzzling. The city of lights has been the catalyst for some of the greatest love affairs in history and fiction. In fact notable couples brought together here include Napoleon and Josephine, Esmerelda and Quasimodo, and Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir. It’s the perfect place to wander arm-in-arm, consumed with love and longing. Paris is also crammed with cobblestone passageways providing plenty of opportunities for the retail abandonment that comes with new love, luscious gardens to complement your lover’s beauty and of course - delectable restaurants serving up the finest aphrodisiacs. Stroll along the Seine, soak up the café culture, enjoy some of the world’s finest art and seal it all with a kiss on top of the Eiffel Tower. Need we say more?

“Recreate the classic scene in La Dolce Vita, by wading through the Fontana di Trevi” stroll. For the more adventurous among you, let’s just say there are of course the ‘specialist boutiques’ and venues offering everything (and anything) to make the night go with a bang. Warning: Amsterdam is a city famous for flowers and diamonds. Both will make a significant dent in your budget.

Vienna

If you have your heart set on an Austrian affair then Vienna with its palaces, glitzy balls, horse drawn carriages and elegant evening gowns is the place for you. Vienna is a city that exudes romance, never more so than in early spring and the Glorious Ball Season. This is traditionally the time when young lovers are courted and seductions are pursued. Hooves echo on cobblestones as carriages rush between residencies, cherry blossom returns to the trees and the birds serenade the warm sun shine. Strolling the streets is like stepping into the past, where everything is in Sepia tones and covered in oodles of amorous intentions.

Photographs courtesy of Damian Irizarry and www.sxc.hu

Rome

Rome - the linguistic and spiritual root of romance, not to mention the scene of some of history’s greatest love affairs. The Eternal City is an amorous place with opportunities aplenty for romantic excursions - like recreating the classic scene in La Dolce Vita by wading through the Fontana di Trevi, the much romanticised Baroque masterpiece. Or you could imitate Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday by exploring the city on a scooter and declaring your love on the magical Spanish Steps. On the Piazza Navona enjoy the view from the Vatican across the bridges at sunset. Stroll along the Tiber river and soak up the history at one of Europe’s most intriguing cities, before enjoying an aperitif in one of the romantic piazzas. Go on - get swept up in the moment.

Amsterdam

Amsterdam’s bridges illuminated in the evening light are among the most romantic sights in Europe. When you’re cycling along canal banks and scooting past picture-box merchant houses interspersed with Expressionist monuments, you quickly come to see that the architecture in Holland’s capital gives a Hollywood film glow to any occasion. As night falls and the lamps brighten the bridges, the effect is enchanting and creates the perfect setting for a romantic

Prague

With its gothic architecture and medieval past, you might think that Prague would be rather intimidating for a romantic break. However in all weathers the buildings have a certain magical sheen that lends the city a fairytale feel, accentuated by the snowy or balmy weather, depending on the season. The bridges are a particularly romantic destination for a stroll - especially with the buzz around the famous market stalls lining Charles Bridge. Take note if you want to buy a bouquet for your other half - Czech tradition dictates that buying an even amount of flowers is reserved for funerals, so avoid morbid moments by adding an extra bloom to your bouquet.

Lisbon

Early Spring or Autumn is the best time to visit Lisbon. The faded facades of Lisbon’s grand mansions are the perfect backdrop to a day spent exploring under cloudless, crisp skies. To rest your feet, climb aboard the seemingly ancient Tram 28, which miraculously rattles its way around the city’s narrow and twisting streets, all the while following the capital’s fierce contours. For a romantic evening, cross the river and find a café to watch the lights illuminate the city from across the water, before welcoming an evening of revelry or relaxation.

Barcelona

While Saint George might be renowned for his courage against dragons in England, for Catalans he represents a very different ideal: romance and love. He’s a patron saint in these parts and on April 23 the city honours him with The Day of the Rose, also known as The Day of the Book. Historically on this date men would give their loved one a rose, and women would return the gesture with a book. It’s all based on the idea of a rose for love and a book forever. These days, opportunistic merchants line the streets with stalls of roses and books, and on average four million roses and over 800,000 books will be sold over the course of the day! It’s certainly more sophisticated than a bunch of petrol station flowers and a fluffy pink card.

www.famoushostels.com

DISCOVER

with Sophie Herbert & Robert Savage

DISCOVER 22

Budapest

“for Barcelona’s Day of the Rose or Day of the Book - men would give their loved one a rose, and women would return the gesture with a book. A rose for love and a book forever.”

They call Budapest the Paris of the east for a fair few reasons and when you explore both Buda and Pest – separated by the river and the engagement inducing Margaret Island - you’ll soon see why. The views from the leafy heights of Buda are simply stunning and the candle lit, back street bars in Pest equip everyone with easy to afford, romantical wine goggles. Beyond the vistas and carafes of delicious wine lies the enchanting beauty of Margaret Island – home to open air classical concerts, fantastic fountains, fireworks and long walkways, perfect for twilight strolls in the summer heat. For a real treat take your special lady or fellow to the oh-so-lush Café Pierot, a wine cellar restaurant with an amorous ambience and gentle Jazz music.

Bruges

The sayings go that chocolate is a girl’s best friend and the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach. From this we can deduce that both sexes have something in common - a mutual urge to over indulge when it comes to tasty treats involving cocoa. With centuries of expertise in creating the world’s most decadently delightful chocolates, Bruges is a very enticing option for a chocolate fuelled romantic

break. Why not get your hands dirty and treat yourselves to a chocolate fondue? The cobbled streets and the charm of wandering the canal banks in this quaint city will seduce you in no time.

Valencia

For a romantic getaway hotter than most, head to the Spanish coast and enjoy Valencia’s old town charm. Ancient Roman walls surround the cobbled streets and plazas, making Valencia the perfect place to relax with sun and sangria or even agua de Valencia (a concoction of Spanish champagne, orange juice, gin and fun) in one of the city’s many pavement cafes. Also housing some of Spain’s most impressive modern architecture and art galleries, Valencia is a vibrant city with a fast paced nightlife. Sample tapas in the fountain filled squares and enjoy the scent of oranges, and flower blossoms along the old river path, park way. Also don’t miss out on a romantic stroll on the nearby beach and the oh-so-tasty Paella Valenciana, served up on stands on the sand! See www.famoushostels.com for more destinations

Central Location Historical Building Friendly Atmosphere Helpful Staff

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Photo: The Belvedere Palace

VIENNA, AUSTRIA

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Robert Savage reports from Prague where open-air cinemas take over river islands and summer concert sounds resound through the cobbled streets.

cluding the snap shop worthy Old Town Hall, (featuring the Astronomical Clock), and the stunning St Nicholas Church. At the centre of the square you’ll find a Jan Hus statue - a meeting point for lost travellers and locals on the way to lunch.

Prague is the perfect backdrop for all sorts of trips, be it a stop on a round the world ticket or a summer spent living and working in the city. Any which way, it’s a veritable hot pot of cultural delights and with so much going on, making the most of it can be a challenge. With that in mind here’s a selection of the city’s best bits not to be missed and the seasonal phenomenon, worth a plane ticket.

Summer Festivals Worth the Trip

Year Round Attractions Prague Castle or rather Pražský Hrad, is famed the world over and rightly so given that it’s the biggest ancient castle on the planet. It’s been the seat of Czech power since Prince Bořivoj built it back in the ninth century. Every ruler since then expanded it and today it’s an amazing mash-up of architectural styles. Highlights inside include the breathtaking St. Vitus Cathedral and the quaint but cute shops lining the Golden Lane.

Photograph courtesy of www.sxc.hu

Charles Bridge might be swamped with visitors just like you and I but there’s a pretty good reason why so many people flock here and why it’s worth fighting through the crowds for a look in. Built in the fourteenth century and named after King Charles IV, this river crossing is now home to painters and market stalls galore, selling everything from glue gun jewellery to hearty Czech snacks. It’s a treat for movie buffs too who might recognise the scene from Mission Impossible. The Jewish Quarter is the home of everything that’s left of Prague’s old Jewish ghetto. It’s named after Josefov - an emperor who eased living conditions for Jews living in Prague and of the many sights not to be missed here, the Old Jewish Cemetery should be top of your list. It’s the oldest surviving Jewish cemetery in Europe and because of the lack of space, there are 12 layers of people buried - one on top of the other here, more than 12,000 gravestones and an estimated 100,000 graves in total. The twelfth century Old Town Square was originally the central marketplace in Prague but over the years it became the home of Romanesque, Baroque and Gothic buildings, in-

August is a fantastic month for festivals in Prague and there really is something for everyone, but rather than focus on just the one event, how about doing the lot? A cool and unlikely place to start is The Shakespeare Summer Festival the biggest open-air, theatre festival in Europe, held in the courtyards of Prague Castle. Keeping in with the great outdoors theme, The Open Air Music Festival combines blue skies, cold drinks and headline acts like Royksopp, Faithless, and Kasabian, all at the Airport Panensky Tynec venue. The International Folklore Festival on the other hand features 1200 performers, a craft making frenzy, tonnes of traditional Czech food and, best of all, free entry. Finally The Open Air Cinema Strelak projects international and Czech films onto a humongous, outdoor screen on the Strelecky Ostrov Island, just across from the National Theatre. Expect showings every Thursday in June, with picnics and paddle boating to boot too.

Off the Beaten Track If you have the time and don’t mind a short trip or two, there are a number of lesser known attractions worth a visit; all within easy striking distance of the city centre. Karlštejn is one example and can only be described as a fairytale-esque castle, just outside of Prague. The Vyšehrad Castle on the red metro line is also a top option and offers unmatched views of the river from the top of the turrets. This is an idyllic spot for a chilled out mini-hike, an ice-cold Budvar in the sunshine and a superbly tasty, grilled aubergine in the beer garden. In the same, off the main tourist drag vein, the Prague Zoo is a short boat trip away from Rašínovo nábřeží and a great place if you like to see hippo feedings, elephant baths and fabulous views from the funicular train, that runs from the top to the bottom of the reserve.

Where to Stay Book your bed at the chic Czech Inn - seriously stylish budget accommodation! See www.famoushostels.com www.famoushostels.com

DISCOVER

Postcards from Prague

LONG HAUL 26

Berlin’s Hippest ’hood

LONG HAUL

Exploring Prenzlauer Berg Berlin expert Paul Scraton explores the German capital’s next up and coming neighbourhood. Berlin has many sights, some of which are famous and others which are less well known. To the north of the central district of Mitte is Prenzlauer Berg, a neighbourhood of former worker houses that line leafy streets in a corner of what was East Berlin and an area that has seen many changes in the two decades since the Berlin Wall fell. Although some might say this once-bohemian district has become a by-word for gentrification and the arrival of the dreaded “yuppies” - it remains a neighbourhood filled with great restaurants and bars, independent bookshops and second hand clothes stores, not to mention some of Berlin’s ever fascinating history thrown in for good measure. Prenzlauer Berg came into existence as a working class neighbourhood of tenement housing, where hundreds of families would be crammed into tiny flats arranged around dank and gloomy courtyards, with little in the way of suitable sanitation. Much of the district was damaged or even destroyed during the bombing raids of World War Two and the Red Army’s final onslaught, but the East German authorities found it cheaper to build new housing suburbs way out to the East than to attempt to turn these warren-like buildings into somewhere fit for the peasants and workers of their Socialist paradise. So Prenzlauer Berg was left pretty much alone, with basic patch-up jobs to prevent the buildings from falling down. Life in the neighbourhood continued much as it had before the war. Perhaps because of this, Prenzlauer Berg became, during the East German regime, a focal point for dissidents, artists and others who were looking for an alternative way of life to the regimented Socialist norm. Indeed, two churches in Prenzlauer Berg are famous for their role in the dissident movement - the Zionskirche and the Gesthemanekirche. Just up the hill from the Rosenthaler Platz, the Zionskirche was a famous meeting point and a venue for concerts by otherwise proscribed bands. The Gesemenekirche, close to the Schönhauser Allee S-Bahn station, became a venue for the protests that spread out from Leipzig in the autumn of 1989. The same protests would eventually topple both the Berlin Wall and the GDR regime.

Photographs courtesy of Eoin Norton

The old East German bohemians and artists were joined in the 1990s by all kinds of students, squatters, musicians and creative types, making Prenzlauer Berg a buzzing and vibrant place to be for the first decade after reunification. Where the trendsetters go however, money follows and things are a little more sedate now – but still fun! At the southern end of the neighbourhood, where Prenzlauer Berg borders Mitte, you’ll find a number of cool spots around the Weinbergspark, a small but lovely green space and a top spot for summertime beers - bought on the cheap from a local shop and drunk on the grass, or in the slightly more refined atmosphere of the terrace at Nola’s, a restaurant overlooking the park. On the western fringe of the park you’ll encounter the ACUD cultural centre, with a cool park and an international cinema, along with the FC Magnet. This bar is deco-

“Some might say this once-bohemian district has become a by-word for gentrification - yet it remains a neighbourhood filled with great restaurants and bars, independent bookshops and second hand clothes stores” rated in that special Berlin flea market style and is devoted to the wonders of the beautiful game that is football. It’s a great place to watch a bit of Bundesliga on the weekend and it’s unlike any other sports bar that you’ve ever been to in your life! Both these venues are on the Veteranenstrasse, and if you head north you come to the aforementioned Zionskirche and the surrounding square. It’s here where you’ll find a great selection of cafes and bars to try out. One corner of the square opens out into Kastanienallee, Prenzlauer Berg’s central strip - packed with coffee shops, independent stores, a small cinema and – at the northern end – The Prater, Berlin’s oldest biergarten. This has has been a venue for open air drinking beneath the chestnut trees since the city limits were way back down the hill and the whole surroundings were nothing but fields and gardens. Wander down one of the streets west from Kastanienallee and you’ll come to Bernauer Strasse. This still marks the division between the districts of Prenzlauer Berg and Wedding. That means little nowadays, but between 1961 and 1989 these two neighbourhoods were divided by the Berlin Wall. One section has since been turned into the Mauerpark (Wall Park), which is home to weekly flea markets on a Sunday, as well as the occasional bout of open-air karaoke on a summer afternoon. Further down the Bernauer Strasse you will come to the Berlin Wall Documentation Centre, with a section of the former fortifications preserved, giving visitors a chance to see the full extent of this concrete and barbed-wire monstrosity that divided a city, and many families within in it. The Bernauer Strasse was also the scene of some of the most horrific and desperate stories on that August weekend in 1961 when the East German authori-

LONG HAUL

“Prenzlauer Berg moves on, changing and fragmenting, as some neighbourhoods come into fashion and last year’s hot spot is dismissed”

ties decided to close the border with what they described as the: “anti-fascist protection barrier.” As the buildings on the southern side of the street were in the East, but the pavement and the road itself were in the West, soldiers and construction workers blocked off the doors and windows of the lower floors. Some however, sensing perhaps that it was now or never to make their way to the west, attempted to escape through the upper windows. Ida Siekmann, in doing so, fell to her death, becoming the first of at least 160 victims who would perish trying to cross the Berlin Wall. You can find out more about the wall and its stories not only at the Documentation Centre, but at various information boards along the length of what was the wall – a route now marked in the street by a row of raised cobblestones. Also around here is the Arkonaplatz, another one of those leafy squares that this neighbourhood seems to do so well, with its Sunday flea market that is smaller (but perhaps better for it) than its big brother down the road. Running from the Bernauer Strasse and back to Kastanienallee is the Oderberger Strasse, which has a fine collection of restaurants and cafes, including the Bonanza Coffee Heroes, which makes the best coffee in town. Seriously! Another corner of Prenzlauer Berg that’s well worth exploring is the area to the west of Kastanienallee and around the Kollwitzplatz. A good stop-off between the two is the Kulturbrauerei – a former brewery-turned-cultural centre – that houses not only live music venues, a cinema, bars and restaurants, but also an instrument store, a pool hall, and a supermarket. Kollwitzplatz is just down the street, and has become somewhat famous as the symbol of gentrification in this part of the city. But the square remains a pleasant spot, and even if the organic markets on Thursday and Saturday are achingly trendy and right-on, the stalls still offer up some tasty treats for a lunch on the move, and even some nice handicrafts, and other surprises that might make for a good present to take home for your mum. Bookworms should also make the short walk from Kollwitzplatz along the Wörther Strasse to the St George’s Bookshop, a second-hand Englishlanguage store that has a fine selection of reasonably-priced reading for your trip, as well as a really good stock of German writers translated into English. Down to the south and you will see the looming presence of the brick water tower, close to which is the Rykestrasse Synagogue. This has been re-opened in the past couple of years after extensive refurbishment, and serves as a reminder of the once-thriving Jewish community that lived in Berlin before the deportation and murders of the Nazi era. The synagogue is the largest in Germany, with seating for over 1,000 people, and on Thursdays there’s a fantastic English-language tour which allows you to see the interior, and learn more about the history, and the future, of the building and Jewish life in Berlin. As ever in this city it is the contrast between the positive present and the often horrific past that can bring you up short. The tenement conditions that brought disease and strife to this corner are long gone, as are the squats and illegal bars that made the neighbourhood’s name in the heady and hedonistic nineties. Prenzlauer Berg moves on, as Berlin does, www.famoushostels.com

changing and fragmenting, as some neighbourhoods come into fashion and last year’s hot spot is dismissed as being over. But for all Prenzlauer Berg’s faults, this district to the north of the city centre remains one of the city’s best spots to wander, find a nice seat in the sunshine, order a coffee or a beer, and watch the life of the city pass you by.

Prenzlauer Berg Top Tips Best Coffee

Bonanza Coffee Heroes, Oderberger Strasse 35 (www.bonazacoffee.de)

Best Ice Cream and Waffles

Kauf dich Glücklich, Oderberger Strasse 44 (www.kaufdichgluecklich.de)

Best Place for Football on the Big Screen FC Magnet, Veteranenstrasse 26 (www.fcmagnetbar.de)

Best Borscht

Pasternak, Knaackstrasse 22 (www.restaurant-pasternak.de)

Best Fast Food

Naan Pizza at W: Der Imbiss, Kastanienallee 49 (www.w-derimbiss.de)

Best Place for a Drink (Indoor)

Scotch and Sofa, Kollwitzstrasse 18

Best Place for a Drink (Outdoor)

Prater Garten, Kastanienallee 7-9 (www.pratergarten.de)

Best Spot for Ping Pong Party People Dr Pong, Eberswalder Strasse 21 (www.drpong.net)

Best Sausage

Konnopkes Imbiss, Schönhauser Allee 44 (www.konnopke-imbiss.de)

Best Books

St George’s Bookshop, Wörther Strasse 27 (www. saintgeorgesbookshop.de)

Best Place for a Sing-Song

Open-air Karaoke in the Mauerpark, Sundays in nice weather.

You can find a special Prenzlauer Berg walking tour, as well as other DIY walking tours to print out and take with you on the Circus Hostel website at: www.circus-berlin.de/diywalkingtours

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DISCOVER

SURF & TURF HIT THE BEACH OR GO OFF ROAD

With locations in easy reach of the beach, it’s easy to surf some waves and soak up rays. Robert Savage explores the best beaches and alternatives for the land lovers.

CORFU

SURF: If you have a soft spot for sailing check out the PINK PALACE Boat Trips. These are fantastic days full of adventure as you enjoy the scenery, soak up the sun, meet new people, cliff jump, explore bat caves, snorkel and visit secluded beaches! If you’re after a more active itinerary, ask after the Kayak Safari. This is a top sightseeing event! TURF: Join the 4-Wheeler Quad Bike Safari for an action packed day of off-roading through olive groves, remote villages and mountain passes. You can also head out hiking and trail-walking in the surrounding mountains.

CARDIFF

SURF: Speed-boating around Cardiff Bay is a superb way to get your bearings in the city. Tours pick up from Mermaid Quay and when you clear the river, the skipper let’s the twin, 250 horsepower engines roar into Cardiff Bay. This thrash about might soak you through to the britches but it’s a great introduction to the city, the set of British science fiction smash hit - Doctor Who and the manmade freshwater bay.

NICE

SURF: You’re spoilt for aquatic choice when you check in at Nice with daily scuba diving trips that don’t require certificates, surfing with wetsuits and boards for rent, wakeboarding everyday from 7.30am and sailing on the hostel’s special yacht, with lunch thrown in too! TURF: Away from Nice harbour you can enjoy canyoning and rock climbing in the Alpine gorges surrounding the city. Jump, slide and abseil your way down through the mountains with an expert guide, top notch equipment, a recharging lunch and transport - all thrown in when you book through the VILLA SAINT EXUPERY HOSTEL.

NAPLES AND SORRENTO

SURF: Nestled in a beautiful bay, 200km south of Rome, Naples is the perfect point of entry on the Italian Riviera for a little coastal exploration. Nearby in Sorrento the seaside attractions include the lively vibe on the beaches and piers, and the mega-yachts in the harbour!

TURF: A must do in Cardiff is The National Museum and Gallery. It’s free and inside you’ll find the second largest collection of Impressionist art - after Paris. Pieces on show include The Kiss by Rodin and Dressed Dancer by Degas. Unsurprisingly the museum is very popular, so avoid the school groups by visiting in the late afternoon.

TURF: Naples is also the gateway to the active volcano Vesuvius, the Roman remains of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Just down the coast in Sorrento not only will you find easy access to the famed island of Capri but also the magnificent Museo Correale de Terranova - home to ancient archaeological discoveries from the area!

BARCELONA

RIGA

TURF: It would be criminal to bounce through Barcelona without taking the time to see Gaudi’s cathedral - La Sagrada Familia, not to mention his designs at La Pedrera, an awesome building at the Passeig de Gracia. Other top, land-locked spots include gothic church Santa Maria del Mar, the Museum of Contemporary Art of Barcelona (MACBA) and the Picasso Museum.

TURF: Something unique to Riga is the chance to let rip with an AK47, a Glock 17 Pistol and a Benelli M3 Shotgun. Just to be clear you do this in an underground shooting range next to Latvian police officers who are training for their day to day duties! Eight live rounds with each weapon, transport to and from the range and an adrenaline calming beer at the hostel afterwards, will cost you 35 Lats - so approximately 50 Euros.

SURF: There are over 4km of beautiful beaches just 10 minutes from the city centre. The first one you come to is Barceloneta where you can enjoy windsurfing, kite surfing and swimming galore. Catch the yellow line metro from the centre and jump off at the Barceloneta stop, or enjoy the 20-minute journey on foot.

SURF: If you have time to factor in the beach then take a train from the station on MARIJAS SATEKLES IELA to Majori or Dzintari. These beaches are less than forty minutes away and if you jump on a train with Sloka as the final destination, you‘re definitely on the right track.

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BRIEF ENCOUNTER

Brief Encounter: Riga, Latvia The capital of Latvia in Eastern Europe is abuzz with fun things to do and adventures to be had. Here’s our whistle stop guide to making the most of it, by Piers Leonard History Riga’s struggle for independence under the Soviet regime is well documented; less well-known however is the important role the city played over 800 years of trade in the Baltic region and the constant battle for power that ensued. As a result, the city is an intriguing blend of cultures and traditions, with German, Swedish and Russian influences to name but a few. Since 1991, Riga has reveled in its independence and today is blossoming into a prime tourist destination.

Must See Funded by trade and commerce, Riga’s Old Town is made saw an opportunity and transported these huge structures up of lovingly-crafted Medieval buildings dating back to to a site by the Daugava River where they became the City the thirteenth century. Some of the finest specimens of JuMarket. These days the vast roofs give shelter to hundreds of gendstil (Art Nouveau) architecture anywhere in the world stalls which sell just about anything you can think of. Only can be found dotted around the historic centre. Such is its two minutes walk from the Old Town, the market is a starbeauty, Riga has been recognised as a World Heritage tling contrast to the inner city and well worth a visit. Site by UNESCO. Particularly impressive is St “Riga’s Peter’s Cathedral, located within the old town Out Of Town nightlife is rightly walls.

Cultural Activities

considered to be Riga’s nightlife is rightly considered to be amongst the best in amongst the best in Eastern Europe. While Eastern Europe, from many bars cater for the lads-on-tour groups techno clubs to attracted by cheap beer and exotic dancalternative bohemian ers, there are a large number of alternative venues with a more authentic, bohemian feel. venues.”

To really understand this city and its turbulent past, a good place to start is the Museum of Latvian Occupation (free entry), which simply but evocatively illustrates how Riga came to be what it is today through invasion and subordination. If possible, catch a performance at the opulent Opera House, the first building to be restored following Soviet rule. Latvians consider opera as key to their national identity and the Riga company is renowned for its energetic approach.

Local Delicacies While it’s fairly safe to say Riga wouldn’t be a foodie’s first choice of destination, you’d be surprised just how tasty the hearty and simple meals are. Most dishes are designed to deliver maximum flavour from a few ingredients. To wash it down try Riga Black Balsam. This traditional Latvian herbal liqueur is prepared by mixing ingredients in pure vodka. The original recipe was created by a pharmacist from Riga called Abraham Kunze. His original concoction included a blend of 24 unusual ingredients such as plants, flowers, buds, juices, roots, oils and berries, all distilled in a wooden barrel to create a bitter flavour with sweet undertones. It’s great for colds.

Shopping Finding themselves with four disused Zeppelin hangars the ever pragmatic Soviet authorities

Techno and House are big in Latvia so if that’s your thing, you’ll be impressed, not least by dance club Nautilus.

Useful Information Language: Latvian Currency: Latvian Lat 0.7: 1 Euro (Spring 2011) Getting There: Ryanair is probably the cheapest op-

tion from the UK. Ferry services run between the city and Stockholm, while buses run to the Nordic countries and Germany, Poland, Russia, Belarus, Estonia, and Lithuania. The Bus Station (Autoosta) is just south of the Old Town in the middle of the city. Trains also arrive into the city from many cities in the Baltic States and Eastern Europe, as well as from Moscow and St Petersburg. Going Out: A beer is generally 2-3 Lats but be sure to check before ordering as tourists are sometimes taken advantage of. Club entry varies but should be around 5 Lats. Beware of clubs advertising free entry. Drinks will be expensive and while entry may be easy, exiting certainly won’t be. AK47 Shooting: Many tours operate target practice packages, with 10 rounds for about ‚ L20. Where To Stay: Friendly Fun Frank’s is an award winning hostel located in the old town, book through www.famoushostels.com/Riga www.famoushostels.com

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City Guide

ortugal’s capital offers an eclectic mix of tradition and modernism, high art, music, fashion, food, and a buzzing nightlife - all set against a dramatic coastal backdrop. Damian Irizarry guides you through the top 10 things not to miss.

1. Seven Hills - Seven Amazing Views

Lisbon is made up of seven hills, each offering breathtaking views over the city. While the hills can be quite punishing on foot, there are many interconnecting funiculars and trams for those more inclined to relax. The Miradouro de Santa Catarina, known locally as Adamastour, is a must for its views of the river and diversity of patrons. Although it might give the impression of being underdeveloped, this is actually a very safe area and a favourite among locals of all backgrounds. The statue Adamastour in the centre of the square refers to the sea giant that Luis de Camóes imagined when writing The Lusiads. Another favourite is the Mariadouro de Graça nestled above the Alfama and Castelo districts. If you’re ready for a challenge, the steep, wearying slopes of the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte reward those who conquer them, with perhaps the best views of the city. A good way to get around these three hills is by tram, taking you through some interesting neighbourhoods.

2. Museo de Fado

Before hitting one of the many Fado clubs in Bairro Alto of Alfama, a trip to the Casa do Fado e da Guitarra Portuguesa is a good place for a quick study of Fado’s history. The well-assembled audiovisual displays allow the visitor to get lost in the sights and sounds of these bluesy melancholic chants of Portugal. The tour ends in a virtual performance that with the right frame of mind, can www.famoushostels.com

be quite moving, complementing the museum’s ever-changing temporary exhibitions. While the Alfama district is the home and birthplace of Fado, many of the venues are quite touristy and accordingly expensive. As an alternative, there are some good venues in Bairro Alto.

3. Thieves Market

Every Tuesday and Saturday, next to the Igreja de São Vincente, this little flea market bursts into existence. Browse through old wristwatches, religious paraphernalia, cheap clothes, second hand vinyl and an unimaginable array of junk in search of that elusive bargain. Even if you’re not looking for anything, the sights and sounds are an experience in themselves. Reclaim your senses with a refreshing drink at the Clara Clara Café.

4. Chapitô

This funky all-purpose rendezvous point occupies the sloping premises of what was a 17th century women’s prison and functions today as a statefunded school for circus entertainers. It lies in the Castelo district and its patio has spectacular views of Lisbon and the river, while you enjoy a meal, a drink or just a wander. There are many indoor and outdoor spots in which to make yourself comfortable as well as live shows. To check the agenda, visit www.chapito.org.

5. Walk Alfama

For a snapshot of Lisbon’s Moorish past, spend some time navigating the labyrinthine district of Alfama. This neighbourhood between the Castelo and the river was once an upper-class, Moorish residential neighbourhood. Now it is home to a working-class population who lay claim to the invention of Fado and the perfection of the technique for grilling sardines. The best time to visit is during the Festa de Santo Antonio in June when the streets explode in pastel-coloured streamers and are smothered in a cloud of sardine smoke.

6. Belém

No trip to Lisbon can be called a success without a pilgrimage to Belém. This is where the Age of Discovery began. Ships commanded by the likes of Vasco de Gama and Henry the Navigator set their sails here, returning with tales of adventure, bloodshed and riches. Discovering a sea route to India, Gama was integral in Portugal’s rise to the top as one of the world’s greatest empires.

7. Night out in Barrio Alto After you’ve stuffed yourself in one of the district’s many restaurants, ranging from traditional to experimental, and checked out the original and independent boutiques, be sure to stick around and experience this area at night. Whether you want to see the bottom of a bottle like a true Fado aficionado, catch some renowned DJs, rock out in an indie dive bar, read Saramago to the

Photographs, text and design courtesy of Damian Irizarry.

Lisbon

8. Museu Gulbenkian

This museum has a great collection of art spanning almost every major period in Western history, as well as some fine specimens from the Eastern tradition. Of note to all those interested in Art Nouveau is the fantastic collection from designer Rene Lalique. Just across the way is the Centro de Arte Moderna which has Portugal’s best collection of

20th century national art. Connecting 10. Take the long way the two museums is an enchanting park Ever leave a city and wonder what you that can provide respite from the hustle didn’t see? This is what the guys behind and bustle of the city. the ‘We Hate Tourism Tours’ want to stop. A group of local friends have made it their mission to take travellers away 9. Cross the River After you’ve had your fill of the city, a from the well-trodden paths of the city good idea is to cross the river to get a and to show them more authentic exnew perspective. Head on down to Cais periences. Expert local drivers, lots of de Sodre, catch a ferry to Cacilhas, and personality and lots of fun. Book now at from there, head to Cais do Ginjal on www.wehatetourismtours.com foot. Walking along the river and past abandoned buildings, you’ll be able to For accommodation in Lisbon, Oasis look across the Tagus and enjoy one of Backpacker’s Mansions in Santa the finest views of the city. Tip: have a Catarina is the best option to suit all late lunch and try to catch the sunset. budgets, with a great location and atmosphere! www.famoushostels.com/lisbon-hostel

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backdrop of Jazz, or anything else that takes your fancy, Barrio Alto has something for you. Even just navigating your way through the crowded streets is fun, as Lisbon’s night owls congregate in the area. Cheap beer and no cover charges cements this as one of the hottest night spots in Europe right now.

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LONG HAUL 38

Seville Sizzles

Southern Spain is famous for its warm climate and appetising beaches, but the city is where it’s sizzling. Zoë Bowthorpe explores the fiesta loving capital of Seville. Famous for flamenco and flouncy dresses, Andalucía (the lively autonomous region above the Costa del Sol) has some of Spain’s most beautiful countryside and liveliest cities. Peppered with cobbled towns, orange groves, Roman remains and Arabic palaces, it’s as rich in history as it is in scenery. The region’s capital, Seville - a short journey from the coastal city of Cádiz and historic university town of Granada in the Sierra Nevada - is a must see on any itinery of southern Spain. Here Andalucían history and tradition is embodied in everything from the grandiose architecture to the locals’ fondness for traditional costumes and festivals. Seville’s rich architecture, historical sites and sculpted gardens make it a beautiful city to visit. The buildings show the influences of Romans, Moors and the Reconquista, with Gothic, Baroque, Medieval and Renaissance influences apparent on former mosques, churches, the university and the cathedral. Strolling through the old town, sampling tapas in one of the many bars and exploring the narrow, winding streets that encase the sun bathed plazas is an experience in itself. The cathedral and Alcázar are hard to miss, but make sure you also wonder down to the river, through the Parque de Maria Luisa, and visit the romantic Plaza de España, built by architect Aníbal Gonzále. You can even take a boat ride in it! Seville is also an artistic centre, housing the most important collection of Andalucían art in the 19th century convent of La Merced, now the Museum of Fine Arts of Seville. Along with œuvres by famous Spanish artists of the Baroque Sevillian School, there are also important 15th and 16th century Flemish paintings. The América square in Parque de Maria Luisa hosts the Archaeological Museum and also the Museum of Arts and Traditions opposite.

Photographs courtesy of Zoë Bowthorpe

Outside of the old town, the neighbourhood of La Macarena is known for religious monuments and is worth visiting for the museum and Basilica of La Macarena. The west bank of the Guadalquivir River is home to the neighbourhood of Triana - known as a gypsy barrio influencial in the birth of Flamenco. This area is recognised as a significant cultural center on its own and is worth a visit to see another aspect of Seville’s history. Make like the food loving locals and: “ir de tapeo” - go for a series of small tapas treats to share amongst friends. Typically in the summer, cooler dishes are enjoyed such as salads, gaszpacho and salmorejo (similar to gazpacho but with pork). Seville’s famous gastronomic treats include fried and grilled fish, and seafood (a speciality of Cádiz and Málaga too), lamb kidneys sautéd with sherry (from nearby Jerez), stewed meats, snail, chickpeas with spinach, flamenco eggs, stuffed artichokes, and of course jamón Ibérico. The city is best visited in Spring and Autumn - the heat is in-

“Make like the food loving locals and ‘ir de tapeo’ - go for a series of small tapas treats to share amongst friends.” tense in Summer when the Sevillanas relocate to the beaches. Spring sees the city’s many gardens and squares filled with flowers - don’t miss the resplendid Parque de Maria Luisa in bloom. Famous for the fruit (and the sweet wine) - the fragrance of orange blossom permeates the air at this time of year and the plazas fill with tables as the tapas loving locals make the most of the temperate weather. The oranges are famously bitter and these days they’re used for marmalade, so even though they hang low from the branches around town, don’t be tempted to try them!

LONG HAUL

Andalucía Uncovered: Seville

Spring also sees some of the most important festivals taking place; the sombre Semana Santa (holy week) festivities and processions take place in the week preceeding Easter Sunday, and two weeks later the jubilant Feria de Abril (April Fair), also known as the Feria de Sevilla (Sevilla Fair), kicks off for six days and six whole nights. This famous Feria sees the town engage in a week of flamenco (the music, song and dance said to originate from the region), a parading of horses during the day, fabulous dresses and lots of celebrating with music, food, and drink until dawn. There is also traditional bullfighting in the famous La Real Maestranza - not for the faint heared as the ‘toros’ don’t make it out, and the less traditional- but children friendly - giant fun-fair. There are a multitude of stalls to win inflatables from and rides that reach serious heights, but provide an excellent view of the Feria park. Next to the fair is Calle del Infierno (Hell Street) where drinks and snacks are available. The Feria dates back to 1847 when it began as a cattle fair. It was an immediate success and by the 1920s became a huge spectacle. It takes place in a specially designated park and each street is named after a famous bullfighter. The temporary, yet highly decorated casetas (enclosures, or marquees) are set up by local bars, organisations, businesses and even families, and the week is spent socialising with food, drink, and live music. Most of these parties are private, but there are also large public enclosures where you can dip in and out, and sample different cuisine, traditional drinks such as Jerez sherry and manzanilla wine - and see various bands playing music until six or seven in the morning. Traditional dress is a must - even tourists are encouraged to wear the traditional attire: for men the smart suit - traje corto - (cropped jacket, trousers and boots) and the flat, rimmed hat - the cordobés. For the ladies, the traditional flamenco dress - faralaes or trajes de flamenca is worn, in every style and colour imaginable (and with a wide variety of price tags). There are also traditional hairstyles (flowers are encouraged), jewellery and flamenco shoes to boot. The fair begins with a celebratory ‘lighting’ of the festival on the Monday evening where thousands of coloured light bulbs decorating all the streets and casetas are switched on. After this a parade of horse-drawn carriages (Paseo de Caballos) www.famoushostels.com

LONG HAUL 40

“La Antigua Fábrica de Tabacos ... was the first tobacco factory in Europe and is reputed to be the inspiration for the opera Carmen.” kicks off the daily celebration - usually carrying attractive ladies in full dress, and people of local importance. At midday they head to the bullring, La Real Maestranza to meet the matadors or just keep going around the park until the evening when the celebrations really kick off. Drinking and dancing all night is fully expected, with families joining in the celebration and children showing off their impressive flamenco skills on the dance floor. The last night ends with a firework display to close the festival, but the merriment carries into the morning light. Book at bed at Oasis Backpackers’ Mansion at www.famoushostels.com/seville-hostel

Seville’s Must Sees The Cathedral of Seville & Giralda

A former mosque, the cathedral was transformed by the Reconquista into one of the largest medieval and Gothic cathedrals in the world, dating from 1401– 1519. The famous Giralda, with spectacular views of Seville, is the former mosque’s minaret turned belltower, and is topped with a statue locally known as El Giraldillo, representing faith.

The Alcázar

This former Moorish Palace was begun in 1181 and over the next 500 years was developed into the palace now found facing the cathedral. It is mainly in Mudéjar style but has Renaissance and English elements in its beautiful garden paradise.

Plaza de España

An example of Renaissance Revival, this exquisite building was actually built in 1928 for the IberoAmerican Exposition of 1929. Enjoy the bridges and take a boat ride round it!

Palace of San Telmo

The seat of the Andalusian Autonomous Government (and formerly the University of Sailors) is famous for its Baroque architecture and chapel.

Parque de Maria Luisa

A beautifully lush park housing museums and the Plaza de España, amongst other buildings.

University of Seville

A huge 18th century Baroque building - La Antigua Fábrica de Tabacos. This was the first tobacco factory in Europe and is reputed to be the inspiration for the opera Carmen. www.famoushostels.com

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GO NATIVE 42

3 Days in Naples Day One: Pompeii and Vesuvius Doing Pompeii and Vesuvius in one day is not for the faint hearted, but follow this plan and it’s possible. Rise early, grab yourself a quick cappuccino from a bar and catch a bus to Vesuvius. If you want to make the most of your day, try and be on your way there early; after all you do have a volcano to scale and an ancient, buried city to explore. Also before you go, be aware that Pompeii isn’t great when it comes to food so avoid the over-priced food by taking snacks with you. Make sure you jump off at the Pompeii Scavi bus stop and be careful because it’s not the last station. From here head into the Vesuviana Mobilita Office - directly in front of you when you alight. It’s here where you can buy tickets for the bus that takes you within spitting distance of the volcano summit and yes, it’s still active but you should be safe enough given that it hasn’t erupted since 1944. It’s just a short walk to peer into the crater itself, although don’t forget to take a good look all around you too, because up here, you get one of the most magnificent views of Naples and the bay. Make sure you take it all in but don’t get too comfortable because you still have the ancient city of Pompeii - buried by the famous Vesuvius explosion in AD 79 - waiting for you below. Take the same bus back down the volcano and get dropped off at the entrance of the ancient city. The fee to get in is half price for EU citizens under-25 and for teachers too, so make sure you take some ID along with you. Also it really is worth picking up the audio-guide which gives you a street by street tour of the whole site. In total this audio tour takes five hours, but you can skip certain sections to suit your own schedule. If you do attempt Pompeii without this guide and simply use www.famoushostels.com

the free booklet instead, there’s a good chance you might regret it and end up walking around in circles like a lost sheep. Buses aren’t so frequent on the way back to Naples, so instead get on the Circumvesuviana train - which goes from the station where you rocked up. This train takes you all the way back to the central station. An all-day ticket (the Unico Campania Fascia 3 Giornaliero) to and from Pompeii, including all buses in Naples itself, will set you back just 4,60 Euros. Doing all of this in a day might sound a little daunting but don’t worry, you’ll get all your energy back after a delicious dinner at Hosteria Toledo in Naples. This cute little restaurant is set in the Quartieri Spagnoli, just off Via Toledo - the main drag. Here you can sample an array of the finest traditional dishes, including homemade pastas, local fish and a selection of meats. It’s also affordable with a two course meal and wine costing 15 Euros. If you fancy a nightcap before bed, why not have a drink in the lively Piazza Bellini? The bars here are relaxed but they get very busy with people sitting outside during the summer months and some are cheaper than others, so shop around if you’re on a budget. Take in the atmosphere but make sure you don’t over-do it because tomorrow is another big day!

Day Two: The City of Naples Many tourists bypass Naples and head straight down to the Amalfi Coast or to the islands, but they don’t know what they’re missing! Naples is jam-packed with character, history and museums galore. In fact it’s so saturated with culture that you really need an efficient and streamlined guide to make the most out of the city in a day. Luckily enough, that’s coming right up! Some people see Naples as an acquired taste, but there is nowhere quite like it in the world, especially if you’re looking for an authentic Italian experience. The atmosphere in this city is second to none and there’s no better way to start a day

Photograph courtesy of www.sxc.hu

Italy’s Amalfi coast is famed for its beauty, but Naples itself demands at least 3 days; Harriet Driver advises what not to miss.

Having worked up an appetite exploring the city’s historic centre, here’s the reward! Naples is known worldwide as the home of pizza and you will not be disappointed. Head to Via Tribunali and scout out Gino Sorbillo or Di Matteo - two of the city’s most famous pizzerias and both as good as each other. Better yet, the pizzas here are some of the cheapest in Naples. After spending the first half of your day in the thick of it, see the city and its famous neighbour Vesuvius from above. Head down the main shopping street - Via Toledo, until you reach the magnificent Piazza Plebiscito which houses the Royal Palace. Just next door to this is the famous San Carlo theatre - a spectaular sight in its own right and also a spot recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From here wander through the Galleria Umberto until you’re back on Via Toledo and facing the funicular train stop - Piazza Augusteo. This is where the view comes in! Take the train to the last stop - Piazza Fuga and follow signs to Castel Sant’Elmo. It’s from here that you have the most fantastic view of Naples and its surroundings. You can see the ominous Mount Vesuvius and the beautiful coastline too, not to mention the bustling city below. A few moments here

with a cold drink from the bar should hit the spot and if you have a chance, you should continue on to the Certosa di San Martino - a Carthusian monastery that’s worth a visit.

Day Three: The Islands of Capri & Ischia Capri is a must see for any tourist and Naples is the perfect base to visit it from. Staying on Capri is typically an option reserved for the super-rich, so taking a ferry over from the mainland for a day trip is the perfect option for most. The island of Capri is certainly luxurious but luxury does not come cheap. For an equally beautiful but cheaper and arguably less touristy option, try the island of Ischia - Capri’s bigger cousin is cheaper and has better beaches. That said visiting Capri is still well worth it. Ferries arrive at the Marina Grande, a short funicular train ride away from Capri Town - the largest town on the island. Capri Town is a maze of teeny, tiny, cobbled streets and exclusive boutiques, with beautiful views of the island’s sheer-cliff shoreline. For a change of scenery hop on the miniature bus to this tiny island’s other town and long-term rival, Anacapri. Here you can take a short chairlift to the island’s highest point and enjoy some picture postcard views.

GO NATIVE

in Naples than with a rich, Neapolitan coffee. Just about any bar will do the trick and do it well, however for something a bit special, try Caffè Alla Nocciola and pick up a delicious pastry while you’re at it. Once you’re all sugared-up, take a leisurely stroll through the winding streets and alleyways of the centro storico (the old town) and make sure you take in the Piazza del Gesù, Spaccanapoli, the Duomo, Via San Gregorio Armeno (famous for its year-round nativity scene shops) the Piazza Dante and Piazza Bellini.

If you fancy a swim there are options on Capri. A tourist favourite on the Capri coastline is the Grotta Azzura (the Blue Grotto). Boat trips can be taken from Marina Grande. The grotto was reportedly used as a swimming pool by Emperor Tiberius and, depending on your guide and the weather conditions, you can quite literally bathe in this cave’s history! Book your bed at the award winning Hostel of the Sun, Naples - See www.famoushostels.com/naples-hostel

Central location, reasonably-priced beds, and delicious, inexpensive food. Combined with the warmth of the locals ensure your stay at Hostel of the Sun will be one of the richest experiences you’ll encounter in Italy.

“Colorful and clean Hostel of the Sun is the best and the friendliest in Naples” Rough Guide “First Rate Hostel with good spirited and helpful and dynamic staff” Let’s go Italy

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BRIEF ENCOUNTER 46

An Athenian Odyssey

Modern Greek culture is interwoven with its ancient past, but where the stunning islands have largely retained their rustic charm, Athens has embraced modernism head-on. More famed for Olympic gods than nightlife, Athens has a surprising amount to offer besides archaeology, with live music, an avant-garde art scene, hip bars, boutique shopping, and many tantalizing restaurants.

Ancient Must See Sites: This modern lively city houses some of the world’s most important UNESCO sites, including the famous Parthenon temple - built in the mid fifth century BC and still standing and other religious temple buildings on the Acropolis (high city) including the Temple of Athene Nike, the Erectheum and the Propylaia (gate house). There is also the well preserved Theatre of Dionysus from the same Classical period on the hillside beneath, the impressive Temple of Hephaestus visible from the Acropolis pathway, and Hadrian’s Library. Visiting the Acropolis is a must see on any itinerary of Athens. The walk to the top along the Philosopher’s Path follows in the footsteps of ancient processions and is an experience in itself. At Dionyssiou Areopagitou you can walk from Syntagma Square - a few meters from the new Acropolis Museum and Theatre of Dionysus. Heading from here you pass through the Dromos, Hadrian’s Library and the Ancient Agora (market place and centre of town). Breathing history and preserved for over 2400 years, wondering among the www.famoushostels.com

remains is an unforgettable experience. If you’re not a history buff there is plenty of information available to guide you on the way and panoramic views of the city, and the hills of Filopapos and Pnix (a site of ancient festivals). Once you reach the top you enter the temple precinct through the Propylaia (gate house) which opens out onto the back of the Parthenon and other temples. Access is limited to where you can explore, depending on the ongoing conservation work, but there is a well heeled route across the Pentelic marble floor to follow. Busy all year round - this is best visited before the tour groups arrive or later in the evening, unless you want to take photos with a lot of people in them! The Parthenon frieze - commonly known as the Elgin Marbles, is controversially in the British Museum in London, but a copy is in place in the temple itself and there are bountiful numbers of statues and other temple relics dotted around. The other temples still have their sculptures and friezes in place, although many of the originals were wood and were destroyed many years ago. The Parthenon itself used to be painted with bright colours, but the gleaming marble that remains today looks resplendent against the bright blue sky. The New Acropolis Museum is definitely worth a visit. It not only houses artefacts from the site, but is also built over an ancient village complex - visable through the glass floor. Some well planned pedestrianisation around the historic centre means that most of the ancient sites can be conveniently visited. Forming a triangle between the oldest neighbourhood of Plaka, Dionysiou Areopagitou street and Keramikos - most of the ancient Athenian sites are found here. Another unmissable site is The National Archaeological Museum - home to some of the world’s most important Ancient artefacts. This extensive collection covers over 1,000 years

Photograph courtesy of Zoë Bowthorpe

Famous as the birth place of democracy and Western civilisation, Athens is a vibrant modern city sprung from its ancient roots. Zoë Bowthorpe explores.

If you have time, the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Panathinaikon Stadium where the first modern Olympic games took place, are both worth visiting, along with the comparatively young Odeon of Herodus Atticus (161 AD). This has fabulous acoustics and it’s still possible to see performances in the summer, in this unique setting. For stunning views of Athens you can hike up the Pnix or Lykavittos Hill (or take a taxi) to the top.

Modern Must See Sites: With neighbourhoods filled with boutique shopping, hipster bars and a funky art and music scene, Athens has evolved into a lively city offering something for everyone. Exploring these neighbourhoods is a must as they offer an insight into modern Greek life as well as a lot of fun! Nicknamed locally as the neighbourhood of the gods, Plaka is now a major tourist attraction with a wealth of restaurants and souvenir shops. There is a huge range of Parthenon miniatures and famous statues, so fill your backpack with a piece of (almost) history here! Just above Plaka is the neighbourhood of Anafiotica - a unique area of Athens that provides respite from the more touristy places. A maze of traditional white washed houses and narrow streets, this is a great place to get lost. For a more upmarket shopping and chic drinking experience - head to Kolonaki, but beware that the fabulous cocktails have a high price tag.

The Greek Parliament building (a former palace) in Plateia Syntagmatos (Parliament Square) is the centre of town. Don’t miss the famous changing of the Presidential Guard - the traditional costumes including an item similar to a kilt and shoes with pom-poms! Adjacent to Parliament are the National Gardens, the nearby Temple of Olympian Zeus, and the Hadrian arch. Stroll through the National Gardens or Zapeion to reach the Panathinaikon stadium from here. For your evening hit Gazi or the more low key Psiri. Be warned that everything starts late in Greece, so don’t be surprised if dinner is around midnight. Gazi is famous for its late night bars and cutting edge music scene so if you want to stay out and party until late - this is the place to head. There is also a great choice of live music venues so check out a few if you can. Better still there’s a top art scene here so you can see a bit of everything in one ‘hood! The neighbourhood of Psiri around Syntagma Square is also known for being a unique part of Athens - with an unlikely mixture of hip bars, arty graffiti and ornate churches. It’s lively in the evenings with late night bars and restaurants on every corner and just walking through the streets is an experience with the smell of charcoal lamb and other grilled treats everywhere. If your budget is too tight for one of the restaurants flanking the square, you can pick up some delicious street food. Even the souvlaki here is great! For accommodation in Athens check out AthenStyle Beds, Suites & Bars - a great location with friendly staff, a roof top bar and great views of the Acropolis! Book a bed through: www.famoushostels.com/athens-hostel

BRIEF ENCOUNTER

of Greek history in the form of pottery, artefacts, sculpture and reliefs. There is also a rich collection from Egyptian times.

FINAL CALL

Sporting Highlights! A round-up of the best sporting events this Summer! 98th Tour de France

FIFA World Cup

International Cricket F1, Grand Prix

Cycling: France

Football: Germany, 26th Jun-17th July

Cycling’s biggest event rolls around again. A mammoth test of speed and endurance the 21 stages of the Tour take in the highways and byways of France – but in a manner far less leisurely than that would imply.

The sixth FIFA Women’s World Cup begins this June in Germany. Held in nine stadiums, the final is held in Frankfurt, with the home team favourite over the US.

Ireland v England, Cricket: ODI Dublin, July 6-14

F1, Grand Prix

48 2nd - 24th July

Silverstone, UK 10th July

On paper this might appear to be a one-sided affair but after they notched up a win over England in the 2011 Cricket World Cup, Ireland could make this a tighter contest.

Join the expected crown of 80,000 at the British Grand Prix as it returns to the new track. Weekend camping is available for the full three days, with a free concert and party on the Sunday evening with driver appearances!

Athletics: ITU

F1, Grand Prix

Rowing

Budapest, Hungary 31st July

London, UK 6th-7th August

Spa, Belgium 28th August

Another dose of Formula One for all you speed-freaks and petrol-heads. This month it’s Budapest that plays host to Vettel, Alonso, Button and co. as they vie for the championship.

Catch the London round of the ITU World Championship - showcasing the likely Olympic triathlon route in London’ts Hyde Park. See London.triathlon.org

Famous for it’s thermal spas, this track is also reputed to be the best, and also allows spectators to walk along it’s full course. Camping is available along with big screen viewing!

World Championships, Lake Bled, Slovenia 28th Aug-4th Sept FISA’s 40th annual event sees the international teams sweat it out on Slovenia’s most scenic lake!

Without clean water, life is an endless struggle. With it almost anything is possible

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