DRESSING SIMPLY / A CLOSET CLEAROUT / THE GLAM WEEKEND / WAVY SUMMER HAIR / WEDDINGS & WHAT TO WEAR
MAGAZINE MAY 2016
with THE IRIS
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MAY 2016 NEXT ISSUE
THURSDAY JUNE 2
�6 INSIDE THIS ISSUE 11 HUNTING & GATHERING This month we’re celebrating luxe fabric and precision cuts
14 MOODBOARD Susan Zelouf is feeling useful
16 WHY DON'T YOU? Nifty notions for May doings
20 LET'S DO LUNCH Madam Olda FitzGerald contemplates the end of an era with Anne Harris
22 WANT LESS, LIVE MORE French essayist Dominique Loreau explains the art of simple living
26 CLOSET CLEAROUT Three different women, three different ways to get organised
28 HOW TO WEAR DENIM Your glossy guide to the wardrobe staple that works at any age
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32 MY GLOSSY WEEKEND Hanging out in Hollywood with actress Elizabeth Olsen PU B L IS H E R
34 BEAUTY
JA N E M C D O N N E L L E DITO R
The best bronzers, super skincare and the cleanser you need to try
SA RA H M C D O N N E L L STY L E E DITO R
AISLINN COFFEY
35 THE NEW WAVE
B E AU TY E DITO R
Everything you need to know about artfully undone summer hair
SA RA H H A L L I W E L L ART E DITO R
L AU RA K E N N Y ASS ISTANT E DITO R – FE ATU RE S
SA RA H B R E E N
36 PAST TENSE
ASS ISTANT E DITO R
Author Mia Gallagher on the influence of her German heritage
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38 TRAVEL Tim Magee has been seduced by everything Australia has to offer
42 FOOD Trish Deseine on the importance of befriending your local butcher
43 WINE A new Old World wine region has stolen Mary Dowey's heart
46 THIS GLOSSY LIFE Meet four up-and-coming creatives determined to make their mark
4 | May 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
ON THE COVER Photographed by Arthur Belebeau. Source: TRUNK ARCHIVE.
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Michael Dwornik, Neil Gavin, Renato Ghiazza, Olivia Graham, Neil Hurley, Lisa Loftus, Barry McCall, Joanne Murphy, Liam Murphy, Amelia Stein, Suki Stuart THE GLOSS welcomes letters from readers, emailed to letters@thegloss.ie. THE GLOSS is published by Gloss Publications Ltd, The Courtyard, 40 Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin, 01 275 5130. Subscriptions Hotline: 01 275 5130. 12 issues delivered directly to your address: Ireland: t49.50. UK and EU: t80. Rest of world: t115. Printed by Boylan Print. Colour origination by Typeform. Copyright 2016 Gloss Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. This magazine can be recycled either in your Green Bin kerbside collection or at a local recycling point.
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Thursday is the new SATURDAY... social media CONCIERGES ... horticultural THERAPY ... planetary SHIFTS and well-dressed GOLF WAGS ...
As a guest at any of May’s many celebrations, perish the thought you are still wearing a pashmina. With variable weather, it’s time to ditch the trusty cardigan in favour of a belted jacket or capelet. The new cover-ups hark back to the 1950s – antique mink stole, marabou feather cape or vintage bolero. As for heels, investigate Solemates (removable heel savers) to avoid ruining your Choos on muddy lawns and Amazing Arches (www. secretfashionfixes.ie) for extra support, though wedges are built for endurance and comfort. Our favourites are those from STUART WEITZMAN and MICHAEL KORS. Full marks if you source a pair by brand Castaner, worth a trip to Madrid to stock up. This year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show will champion the wellbeing benefits of greening up, especially in ANNMARIE POWELL’s Heath, Happiness and Horticulture garden. DIARMUID GAVIN will be charming everyone with his Harrods Garden and there will be fragrance provided by the L’Occitane garden created by dishy designer JAMES BASSON and inspired by the Haute Provence landscape where L’Occitane founder OLIVIER BAUSSAN grew up. With lavender, an almond tree and thyme and rosemary underfoot, you’ll feel transported to Provence. If you can’t get to Chelsea, we prescribe a month-long course of L’OCCITANE’S Violette & Rose de Mai, the newest fragrance.
6 | May 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
INVEST IN THE BEST: Sheena Doggett, Mrs Moneypenny and Aisling Dodgson at THE GLOSS Investment Dinner.
Eminent Australian child psychologist ANDREW FULLER’s new book Unlocking Your Child’s Genius (Ebury Press) is all about how to get the best out of your child without hot-housing or tiger-parenting them. Fuller has been called the BILLY CONNOLLY of psychology, and there’s a lot in the book about preparing teens for exams – very timely with Junior and Leaving Certs on the horizon. Fuller talks about how to develop the concentration skills of Happy Wanderers (visuals), Frequent Flyers (sequences), Spies (sound), Fidgeters (touch), Star Trekkers (linking ideas) and Social Secretaries (social as well as solo thinking).
Investing in Trusted Advisers was the theme of our Private Investment Dinner last month, held in association with Investec and A&L Goodbody, at The Merrion. A talented and glamorous audience of businesswomen heard the inimitable Financial Times columnist MRS MONEYPENNY (who flew her own aircraft from London!) encourage delegation, self-promotion and financial literacy while AISLING DODGSON, Head of Treasury at Investec, spoke about the company’s Women in Business programme, and pointed out that fewer than half of Irish women contribute to a private pension fund. The importance of choosing an adviser carefully was highlighted by SHEENA DOGGETT, Corporate Partner at A&L Goodbody. Mrs M’s parting tip? “Spend one hour a week on your finances.”
MIRKA FEDERER was recently spotted having a discreet blowdry at ERROL DOUGLAS in Belgravia, also favoured by LEWIS HAMILTON, who comes in with several minders (presumably as violent harassers are known to lurk in ritzy hair salons). Bouncy hair unites all WAGs, but defining the differences between the football, tennis and golf glossy posses is easy. For tennis, not so many hotpants and heels (remember the iconic Baden Baden football moment?) and more floral frocks and lacy looks for centre court appearances. Golf girls show no sign of tans, mini skirts or bling jewellery. Our favourite homegrown golf WAG is DARREN CLARKE’s wife Alison who runs a modelling business in Belfast. Everyone’s secret crush, G Mac (GRAEME MC DOWELL), met his wife when consulting her interior design practice for a home make-over. She clearly worked on his accent too – a source of amusement for all those north of the border.
A lump of wax or an objet d’art? The scented candle industry is now one of the most lucrative in the beauty market – £90 million is spent each year in the UK and Ireland and Neta-Porter currently has 136 different candles on offer. Check VICTORIA BECKHAM’s Instagram account and you’ll see she used Diptyque’s Feu de Bois during fashion week. The rise in “mandles” – man-friendly scents – may account for the predominance of vetiver and sandalwood offerings. Candle connoisseurs favour Byredo Ambre Japonais or Cire Trudon’s Trianon & Bartolome.
The Cannes Film Festival runs from May 18-20, with WOODY ALLEN’s Café Society the opening film. STEPHEN SPIELBERG’s adaptation of ROALD DAHL’s BFG and I, Daniel Blake by KEN LOACH and PAUL LAVERTY will also feature. Meanwhile ANNA WINTOUR is doing the rounds for First Monday in May, about the famous Met Gala and exhibition, “China: Through the Looking Glass”, the best attended Costume Institute exhibition in the museum’s history. We can’t wait to see cameos by KARL LAGERFELD, RICARDO TISCI, JOHN GALLIANO and JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER.
The rise in the comical apology or “humble brag” is reaching peak usage. As in “the wifi at my Greek villa only works for four devices”. Ditto the mention of Mercury retrograde to explain a slowing down of business. You could watch out for the transit of Mercury on May 9, mind you, when the planet comes between the sun and the earth, last spotted in 2006. An excuse to buy new sunglasses?
Six months on, how is the MARIE KONDO method of de-cluttering working for you? Reports suggest random purchases are in decline while bathroom cabinets are surprisingly spartan; though the folding method has not been sustainable. For Closet Clearout, see page 24. ^
PHOTOGRAPH BY CONOR HEALY
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edding season is upon us. Expect more “big days” happening on Thursdays and Sundays with couples opting for more economical dos. That doesn’t mean there’s a shortage of creativity – memorable “experiences” are now trumping traditional ceremonies, while artisan elegance has taken over from vintage as a key theme. As for eats, seafood bars, festival-style catering (fish and chip vans) and elevated comfort food are all on the menu. Brides are opting for chic white trousers or a convertible wedding dress they can wear again, with mismatched bridesmaids’ dresses (a handy style solution for mismatched bridesmaids). Availing of social media concierges is new, who admonish, “we want to see your faces, not your devices.” Advice to guests: stay in the moment and keep ceremonies camera free – let the drones do the hard work. (Yes, it’s come to that). Another unusual one: the use of Fitbits to monitor just how excited the happy couple are walking down the aisle.
UPDATE
The Lowdown
1. “Queen of the Deep Blue Sea.” 2. Pickle, 43 Camden Street, Dublin 2. 3. Sole with savoy cabbage at Two Cooks, Sallins, Co Kildare. 4. Beatrix Potter Fashion Designer Collection. 5. “A Study For The Head Of St Anne” by Leonardo da Vinci. 6. Rolling Stones T-shirt by Tommy Hilfiger.
WHAT’S TRENDING IN MAY?
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of lemon, parsnip, pink grapefruit and pomegranate. Open 10am-6pm from May 13. www.arranstreeteast.ie 5
WE’RE VISITING ...
WE’RE BUYING ...
DLR LEXICON, which hosts the 158th International Print Exhibition (1) from the Royal Photographic Society, the world’s oldest running exhibition of its kind. There will be 100 prints on view, including Queen of the Deep Blue Sea by Lise Ulrich (above), from 20 different countries. May 11-June 22.
T-shirts from Tommy Hilfiger’s capsule collection (6) celebrating EXHIBITIONISM, the incredible Rolling Stones retrospective currently at the Saatchi Gallery. Get them at the flagship on Regent Street, London or online at www.tommy.com. The exhibition runs until September 4. www.saatchigallery.com
PICKLE RESTAURANT (2), chef Sunil Ghai’s latest opening on Camden Street, offering North Indian cuisine that doesn’t disappoint. The crispy potato cakes are divine. www.picklerestaurant.com. Also worth a visit is TWO COOKS, (3) slightly off the beaten track in Sallins, Co Kildare, where Nicola Curran and her husband Josef Zammit are serving up deliciously simple, fresh fare. Save room for the medjool dates and caramelised banana dessert. www.twocooks.ie
WE’RE SIPPING ... CORNUCOPIA’s tasty new cold-pressed juices, created by nutritionist Erika Doolan, the first in a new range of products from the cult veggie restaurant on Wicklow Street. Available in store, at Kennedy’s Foodstore, Fairview Dublin 3, and other locations. ^
99 PROBLEMS
WE’RE ORDERING ... These quirky BEATRIX POTTER editions (4). To celebrate Potter’s 150th birthday, five fashion designers, including Orla Kiely, Preen and Henry Holland, have created bespoke new covers for her classic children’s tales. From July 7.
Missed the ice cream van? Here are some alternative ways to get your fix
WE’RE GAZING AT ... LEONARDO DA VINCI: 10 DRAWINGS FROM THE ROYAL COLLECTION (5) at the National Gallery, featuring the Italian artist’s famous depictions of anatomy, architecture and botany. Until July 17. Advanced booking through www.nationalgallery.ie is required.
WE’RE SHOPPING AT ... ARRAN STREET EAST’s cool new bricks-andmortar store in Dublin 7, where their latest collection of handthrown stoneware comes in a pleasing palette
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SCOOP: This dinky new Ranelagh spot is our go-to for coffee, crêpes and delicious gelati. Keep your eyes peeled for their mobile operation too: it’s a retro Citroën HY Van.
LADURÉE: Our favourite Parisian-inspired café in Dublin 2 is now serving ice cream, complete with one perfectly crafted macaron set atop.
ITALIAN COOKING SCHOOL: ICE CREAM: If you feel like whipping up your own, this cookbook has over 75 foolproof recipes for mouthwatering gelati. Phaidon, ¤12.95
COMPILED BY HANNAH POPHAM
WE’RE DINING AT ...
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Photo Michel Gibert. Photograph used for representational purposes only. Thanks : TASCHEN / Axel Gouala, Coppia, 2015, Galerie Le point Fort.
French Art de Vivre
Azur corner composition in leather, designed by Philippe Bouix. PrĂŠcious cocktail tables, designed by CĂŠdric Ragot. European manufacture.
UNIT D1 - Beacon South Quarter, Dublin 18. Tel: 01-653-1650
3D Interior Design Service
www.roche-bobois.com
B O O D L E S . C O M / R A I N DA N C E
HUNTING
LOW- KEY LUXE
THE ART OF SIMPLICITY
JASON LLOYD-EVANS
The crispest of shirts paired with a low-slung skirt of the softest sand-coloured suede is surely a lesson in natural glamour. If, like us, you’re still searching for the elusive perfect white shirt, this sharp yet feminine version on Michael Kors’ SS16 catwalk marries two ultracomfortable shapes – the pyjama shirt and the kimono – to elegant perfection. Pairing structure with slouch is the way forward. For Kors, it’s about “the sensuous attitude of clothes that wrap, tie and slide”: loosen up, and think sexily casual rather than tight and restrictive. Keep everything else down to earth, too – fresh skin, relaxed hair, lightly tanned legs and flat sandals all add to the freshness. If only looking this effortless and pulled-together didn’t require such precision with an iron ...
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | May 2016 | 11
GATHERING
Channel the Trend MICHAEL KORS
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BRI LLI A N T LY B AS IC
JASON LLOYD-EVANS
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SUNNY & SIMPLE 1. Yellow silk cushion, HEAL’S, d46; www.amara.com. 2. White extra-fine cotton shirt, UNIQLO AND LEMAIRE, d39.90; www.uniqlo.com 3. Gold tassel earrings, d65; WWW.SCRIBBLEANDSTONE.COM. 4. Yellow suede wrap skirt, IRIS & INK, d428; www.theoutnet.com. 5. Vert Malachite, ARMANI/PRIVÉ, d285, at Brown Thomas.
. Gold Hammock suede bag, d1,900; WWW.LOEWE.COM. 7. Nude Finish Illuminating
Powder, BOBBI BROWN, d50, at counters nationwide. 8. Thorpe suede and oak chair, d675, at Laura Ashley. 9. Tan suede shoes, DRIES VAN NOTEN, d449; www.envoyofbelfast.com. For stockists, www.thegloss.ie
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MOODBOARD “ABSORB WHAT IS USEFUL, DISCARD WHAT IS NOT, ADD WHAT IS UNIQUELY YOUR OWN.”
I’m wearing an Alaïa LBD, a wardrobe staple featured in André Leon Talley’s trim Little Black Dress book. At Easons.
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BRUCE LEE
I’m making authentic stove top espresso in my Bialetti Moka. Stock Design, 33 King Street South, Dublin 2.
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“A THING WELL DONE IS WORTH DOING.”
“HAVE NOTHING IN YOUR HOUSE THAT YOU DO NOT KNOW TO BE USEFUL, OR BELIEVE TO BE BEAUTIFUL.” WILLIAM MORRIS
HUGH LEONARD
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THIS M O N TH T H E M O OD IS:
USEFUL
I’m indulging in floury potatoes prepared in a modern version of this 19thcentury cooking pot. From www.100objects.ie, a history of Ireland in 100 objects. I’m buffing my leather thigh-high boots using a walnut and horsehair valet from www.christophepourny.com.
SUSAN ZELOUF reflects on the beauty of usefulness Upgraded to the rock star suite at a trending Manhattan hotel on the last night of a recent business trip, we got a bit reckless during Happy Hour and decided to splurge on the pricey new rooftop restaurant rather than go out to a diner. The hostess was young and friendly and pretty, and when quizzed, sweetly admitted she couldn’t tell us a thing about the food on the menu. Our waitress was very nice but when asked if a dish would be served warm or cold, she posited “In between?” The foie gras was, in fact, presented cold, with warm toast. Tunisian chicken would apparently be prepared as they do in Tunisia. Our server announced the food would come out “family style”, as it was ready, so we could share, although I told her my husband would rather starve than sample my choice of starter. Oh, and when asked to clarify, she guessed the beet, parsnip and carrot starter he ordered would be blanched, not served raw. It turned out to be a raw deal. We wanted to love the establishment, like we want to love all the products and services we choose to use, but more and more, we’re disappointed. Whatever happened to taking pride in a job well done, to asking questions when you don’t know the answer, to knowing your business inside out, to making yourself useful? If I had to proffer one piece of advice to anyone hoping to impress a potential employer, it would be that. And when you land a job, apprentice yourself (overtly or under the radar) to the ablest person there, work hard and learn the trade. Every plant must earn its place in the garden, though not every seedling is destined to become a Venus fly trap, a carnivorous plant capturing nitrogen from insects, thriving in soil left nitrogen-poor after wildfires, helping damaged ecosystems recover, then dying off, mission accomplished. Some flowers are intensely fragrant, emitting complex mixtures of low molecular weight compounds into the atmosphere to attract pollinators like bees,
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moths, beetles and bats; others simply look great in a bud vase. All organisms serve a purpose within their habitat. Nature weeds out uselessness in a process called natural selection: somewhere in the world, there is a virtual storage room filled with species facing extinction, having outlived their usefulness, like dried out tubes of superglue or waxy tubes of lipstick or boob tubes with shot elastic. The Kaufmann Mercantile Guide, compiled by German filmmaker-cumblogger-cum-online retailer Sebastian Kaufmann (with Alexandra Redgrave and Jessica Hundley) is a straightforward handbook extolling the pleasures inherent in doing just about anything well, from brewing the perfect cup of coffee to caring for cast iron to impressing your dinner guests by sabering a champagne bottle. You don’t have to be a hipster living in a cabin in Joshua Tree, California to pine for a more meaningful, self-reliant modern life; the lives of urbanites can equally benefit from learning how to sew a button, ford a stream, read the sky, polish the silver. Lindsey Biel’s How to Raise a Sensory Smart Child (www.sensorysmarts.com) is a practical guide aimed at children with sensory processing issues, including those with developmental delays, attention problems or autism spectrum disorders, but encouraging all of our children (and ourselves) to be more hands-on might be the key to living more connected, contented, empowered lives. As Eleanor Roosevelt said, “With freedom comes responsibility”. Making ourselves useful is more than making sure we pay the bills; it’s about uncovering the deeper meanings hidden in the most mundane of tasks, of discovering the joy of cooking, cleaning, serving, fixing, gardening, maintaining and caring for the things and people we’ve chosen to surround ourselves with. It’s about being fit for purpose. This month, put yourself to good use, beautifully. ^ @SusanZelouf
THIS MONTH’S MOODBOARD I’M ATTACHING documents the old school way with Gem paper clips, (1) first introduced in 1892. www. officemuseum.com
I’M MASTERING new skills empowered by expert tips in this trusty companion guide. (2) www.kennys.ie
I’M BLENDING like a pro with this wondrous foundation sponge. (3) Make Up For Ever, 38 Clarendon Street, Dublin 2
I’M TAKING NOTES using a classic yellow pencil from Papermate, the Mirado (4), made from incense cedar. I’M HEADING in the right direction with the help of a brass pocket compass, (5) made in Minnesota. www.kaufmannmercantile.com.
NAOMI CAMPBELL FOR NEWBRIDGE SILVERWARE
W W W. N E W B R I D G E S I LV E R W A R E . C O M #NSBlueBox
Why Don’t You...?
SOCIAL LIFE INSPIRATION
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NIFTY NOTIONS FOR MAY DOINGS
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... GO SWIMMING
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... SET A TABLE OUTSIDE for celebration season. Entertaining outdoors means our search for the perfect garden table must continue. Expensive lifetime investment or IKEA gap-filler? A rustic antique table, nicely pre-worn and weathered and not at all precious, is an original alternative. Buckley Galleries in Sandycove, Co Dublin, has an auction every Thursday; www.buckleygalleries.com; while Cork Auction Rooms holds a monthly sale; www.corkauctionrooms.ie. For other local auctions, see www.myantiques.ie. Add a white cloth or forego altogether, if your plates are pretty enough. In the guest loo? Clarke’s of Dublin artisan soap, handmade by Suzanne Clarke. We like No 5: the scent of camomile and geranium,¤5.95, at Brown Thomas, or at www.clarkesofdublin.com.
... BARE YOUR LEGS in ultra-natural Marie Claire 8-denier Brilliant Liquid Shine tights (¤10) with invisible sandal toes and magical moisture capsule technology to keep your legs soft. Warm up pasty skin quickly with a night treatment: James Read Sleep Mask Tan Body (¤54 at M&S) is a non-messy cooling gel that turns legs golden overnight. Show off with FitFlop chic silver slides. On your face, keep bronzing simple – Tom Ford’s Pieno Sole for cheeks makes skin glow.
... PLAY AN OUTDOOR GAME Hire games including Giant Chess or Air Hockey for a Saturday gathering and you’ll most likely have them until Monday, allowing you to gather again on Sunday morning for croissants and Connect 4, Jenga and juice. At www.caterhire.ie, from ¤30. If your lawn is even enough, traditional boules gets everyone involved, even the least athletic. Pastis and straw hat optional.
... LOOK EAST
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to Lapis and Gold, the story of the 16th-century Ruzbihan Qur’an, at the Chester Beatty Library until the end of August. Only five manuscripts signed by master Iranian calligrapher Ruzbihan Muhammad al-Tab’i al-Shirazi have survived, richly illuminated with gold and lapis, the two most expensive pigments in the world. Go big, go blue, go beautiful with a shot of dazzling blue on the lashes: YSL Vinyl Couture Mascara comes in brilliant violet, jade green, silver or gold – but cobalt caught our eye for summer. At Debenhams from May 11, ¤35.
... BECOME A NUDIST
... SWING A SHOPPING BASKET
We all wore brown-toned lipstick in the 1980s – remember the run on MAC Spice? – and it’s having another moment. Try Whirl lipstick (¤21.50), a matte dirty rose, part of the feisty MAC Brooke Candy collection. At BT2 Henry Street and www.brownthomas.com.
Imagine being condemned to use Bags for Life until the heavenly hereafter? Pick up a sturdy woven straw basket on holidays this summer: you’ll be falling over them in France and Spain. Even toting the loo cleaner is more bearable with a jaunty basket on your arm ... ^
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1. Summer celebrations start with a pretty table. 2. Thibaut wallpaper range, from ¤80 a roll at Kevin Kelly Interiors, Morehampton Road, Dublin 4. 3. Pieno Sole Cream Cheek Colour, Tom Ford, ¤62. 4. An illumination from the Ruzbihan Qur’an. 5. Tropical swimsuit, ¤47.50, at Marks & Spencer. 6. Milos straw hat, www. hermes.com. 7. Stack leather sandals, FitFlop, ¤120, at Arnotts. 8. Green Shrub dessert plate, ¤11.99, at www.zarahome. com. 9. Vinyl Couture mascara, Yves Saint Laurent, ¤35, at Debenhams.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JUSTIN COIT / TRUNK ARCHIVE
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surrounded by the new Thibaut wallpaper range from Kevin Kelly Interiors in Donnybrook, Dublin 4. Fresh, summery and playful, Barrier conjures a pink coral reef, while Fair Isle is frondy and green. Then try a tropical print one-piece swimsuit for your first foray into the deep blue sea – or local pool.
SHIRT €55, LEATHER SKIRT €185 BOTH AUTOGRAPH, SANDALS €65 INDIGO COLLECTION | LINEN JACKET €110 AUTOGRAPH | WAISTCOAT €60, KNITTED VEST €27, CROP TROUSERS €40 ALL M&S COLLECTION, SANDALS €65 AUTOGRAPH. ROI STORES & ONLINE. SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY.
BROWSE AND SHOP OUR BRAND NEW COLLECTION AT MARKSANDSPENCER.IE
INTERVIEW
LET’S DO LUNCH by Anne Harris
Olda Willes married Desmond FitzGerald, 29th and last Knight of Glin, in 1970 and they had three daughters. He died four years ago; she currently lives between Glin, Dublin and London, and is a passionate gardener.
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ILLUSTRATION BY LAUREN O’NEILL
Over roast gammon and cabbage at Glin Castle, Madam Olda FitzGerald contemplates the end of an era
t first I thought it was a Maggie Smith, Downton Abbey moment. Olda, Madam FitzGerald, widow of the Knight of Glin, describing my pick-up at Limerick station wrote: “It will be either Tom Wall, the gardener, or my sonin-law Dominic. You will know Dominic by his cheery, brown face.” Like I wouldn’t know him from his starring roles in The Affair, The Wire or The Hour. For the cheery, brown face belongs to Dominic West, actor husband of Catherine, Olda’s eldest daughter. If the understatement seemed eccentric, I was soon to learn that mischief is Olda’s default mode. A brave one, given that the glamour of Glin is imbued with loss. My trip, nonetheless, was drenched in theatre. The drama began with Tom Wall, friend of the family for 30 years. On the drive, he tells me of a childhood spent at Glin Industrial School, which closed a decade before the Knight and Olda came to bring new life to the castle and the village. It is a story which purges the soul with pity and with terror. Clerical abuse survivor, internationally acclaimed actor and Anglo Irish family – this is no one
Centenaries are in the air. Vogue is 100 years old this year and Olda, whose first job was there, has contributed a memoir. “Editorial was so snooty. They looked down on everyone. I went off and learned to type, then I went to Florence and got a job at Pucci and when I came back to Vogue I found myself in the Men’s section with a Mr Fish, which was very nice.” Olda’s life, since Desmond’s death, is spent between Glin, Dublin and London. The 35 years of incessant work restoring the dilapidated castle to its neo-classical glory, a home where, ironically, their happiest days were “when we ran it as a hotel,” are, emotionally at any rate, parked. “I’m leaving this life,” she says. “I have to make a different life.” And as is the wont of one starting a new life late in life, the past becomes a starting point. A past where a Major’s daughter found herself in the heart of swinging London. “Everything was very exciting. Though not as decadent as people thought, even at the time.” Olda’s recollections come in delicate fragments, perhaps to disguise a life which was more challenging than is perceived. When she met dashing Desmond FitzGerald, Knight of Glin, he was still grieving the break-up of his marriage to French beauty Loulou de la Falaise, famous muse of Yves St Laurent. “What went wrong between them was very sad – she was obsessed with clothes and he was obsessed with old furniture.” Her gift for mordancy is as apparent in her description of their new romance as in her husband’s previous marriage. “Desmond had a cousin whose husband suffered from depression. This being the 1960s, the doctor prescribed parties. Every two weeks, great parties. Although he was dating someone else, Desmond invited me. We went out for over a year.” During that time, Olda and Loulou became fast friends and remained so until Loulou’s death in 2011. “I suppose it is unusual to be friends with your husband’s first wife.” Preternatural wisdom? Pragmatism? It was to be a combination drawn on many times in her extraordinary life with the Knight. “We had two small children and Desmond was very sociable: it would be parties every night. It suddenly became apparent we would have to leave London. In 1975, we put the children in a car and came here. We settled down and Honor arrived. Desmond had got the job as Christie’s representative. We travelled around the country, valuing.” She went everywhere with him. “I had to keep an eye on Desmond.” Mischief or mordancy? The fact is, their’s was a great collaboration, which reached its apogee in her nursing him in illness. “Being ill was a wonderful experience for him,” says Catherine in an astute, elegiac moment. “There was always someone for lunch: he saw how he was valued.” Our lunch – the most delicious roast gammon and cabbage I have ever tasted – has been punctuated by the children, Dora, Senan, and Francis, seeking sidebars with their father. I sense dramaturgical moments: a play is to be performed. “This is a great house for entertaining,” says Catherine. “Robert Graves came, Paddy Moloney was a great friend. Daddy lived intensely. He filled every corner of every room. It was always fun.” Suddenly, the play is the thing. We repair to the great hall for the children’s performance. It’s a play within a play – a ghost story, but unlike that other play about a ghost, it does not end with bodies strewn about the stage. It’s full of life. Like Olda FitzGerald. ^
OLDA FITZGERALD:
dimensional Downton, here are the rich layerings of Ishiguro’s Remains of the Day. Tom brings me to the family kitchen where the table is set for four. Catherine greets me and while we wait for the others, she provides a prologue: Glin must be sold. The landmarks of her life are here. And her roots. “We would go on picnics across the river. Daddy would recite poetry, declaiming against the sleeting rain.” Who wouldn’t hope for a never-ending number of days in this place. The Knight’s death, five years ago, sounded the knell. The sense of an ending is palpable. “Truly terrible,” she murmurs as we look over the gardens. The celebrated “working walled garden,” of flowers and vegetables, sparked her mother’s book Gardens of Ireland and her own passion. Currently landscaping Hillsborough Castle, Catherine longs for southern Irish gardens. Olda arrives, swiftly followed by Dominic, who, despite his size, slips imperceptibly into place, never distracting from Olda. The art of the actor is inescapable, something exploited by former Arts Minister Jimmy Deenihan, who finding Dominic in situ a few days earlier, grabbed him to read the Proclamation at Ballybunion’s 1916 Commemoration ceremony.
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THE SIMPLE LIFE SIMPLIFY YOUR HOME Home should be a place of rest, a source of inspiration, a healing retreat. Home should be a place to replenish our energy reserves, and find new vitality, harmony and serenity. It should be a place of protection, both materially and psychologically, for body and spirit alike. Eliminate whatever is not working perfectly. Change faulty taps, noisy flushes, cramped shower cubicles, awkward door handles – the many tiny annoyances that pollute our everyday lives. Quality materials are the key to comfort: a pashmina shawl will keep you warmer in bed than two cheap blankets, adapts to any room in the house, and can be carried in your car or onto a plane. It is beautiful, wonderfully soft, and lasts for years. If we settle for cheap or poor design, we pay the price. Paying careful attention to the aesthetic beauty of our surroundings refines our sensibility. The greater our attention to detail, the more our surroundings nurture us. Cupboards crammed with clothes (but nothing we can wear), piles of books (but nothing to read), a refrigerator full of out-of-date food, a freezer more ice-bound than the North Pole, are all symptoms of an ‘unhealthy’ home. Built-in cupboards, light sources set into the ceiling or walls, and an absence of clutter are the key to a restful interior with room to breathe and focus on essentials. Never compromise; never hold on to useless things. Living permanently with objects we dislike makes us apathetic and miserable. Promise yourself to keep only the things you love. The rest is meaningless. Don’t let your world become filled by the past, or by objects you find mediocre. Own little, but the best of everything. Don’t
Cultivate your inner HUNTER-GATHERER when SHOPPING: seek only the best.
Too many possessions, too many temptations and desires, too much choice, too much to eat. Most of us journey through life with a great deal – often excessive amounts – of baggage. In her new book, DOMINIQUE LOREAU tells us how to live more with less … 22 | May 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
SIMPLIFY YOUR WARDROBE Discard anything that doesn’t coordinate with the rest of your wardrobe, anything that’s too small, too old or surplus to requirements. Make your wardrobe a haven of well-ordered peace. And if you don’t need to “dress” for work or to go out, buy two or three really good pairs of jeans – the absolute best solution for comfort, practicality and quality (see page 26). Stay true to one distinctive style: if you strive to look like too many other people, you may lose sight of yourself. Know yourself, and your style will follow naturally. Sort through your wardrobe: keep only the things you really love. Throw out items that don’t suit you, or are old, anything you’ve scarcely worn, for whatever reason (or none). You’ll be casting off all those pipe dreams and wrong-headed purchases, all those impulse buys made in moments of frustration or weakness. “Less” means ridding yourself of those moments of hesitation in front of a wardrobe full of clothes that are “not too bad”. The items left after a thorough purge have more presence
PHOTOGRAPH BY ARTHUR BELEBEAU / TRUNK ARCHIVE
WANT LESS, LIVE MORE, TRAVEL LIGHT
settle for a “good enough” armchair. Buy the most beautiful, lightweight, ergonomic and comfortable armchair you can afford. Don’t hesitate to discard things that are “more or less okay”. Replace them with objects that are perfect and fit for purpose. Surround yourself with “basics”. Choose the finest natural materials and shun superficial bling: pure, serene white ceramics, or stone; expensive, beautifully smooth and glossy lacquerware; wood with a naturally beautiful grain; textiles that reveal their natural beauty (wool, cotton, silk). If you can’t yet afford the sofa of your dreams, save for it little by little until you can. But don’t buy a cheap substitute while you wait or it might stay.
THE SIMPLE LIFE and value, and will be easier to coordinate. Staring at a dress you detest, hanging in your wardrobe day after day, is far more harmful than getting rid of it once and for all. Set a budget for your wardrobe, just as you would for food or your children’s education. Dressing well is not a luxury; it is part of a balanced life. Our clothes are our outer envelopes: no one should feel guilty about wanting to look their best. A smart appearance is as important as a decent place to live, or refined tastes. It is part of a greater whole – a question of balance. Distinguish the things you like and want from the things you really need. Then think about cost. Expensive clothes are most likely to withstand being worn over a long period of time. The more expensive they are, the more wear you will get out of them. When you choose a new piece, make sure you can wear it with five other items from your wardrobe. Never buy anything simply because “it’s a bargain”. Organise your wardrobe. Clothes that are folded, hung, aired and protected correctly last longer. Put seasonal clothes away in another place once you’ve finished wearing them for the year. Your wardrobe will be less cluttered. Show your clothes respect. Perfume your wardrobes, protect woollens from mites by storing them in sealed bags scented with a small guest soap. Invest in good quality wooden hangers and throw out all the fiddly wire and plastic models you’ve acquired from the dry cleaners.
A TIME FOR EVERYTHING
SIMPLIFY YOUR TIME
Cultivate your inner hunter-gatherer when shopping: seek only the best. Fresh, quality foodstuffs are essential for your enjoyment and health. Shopping is an activity that requires imagination, good sense and enthusiasm. Take a strong basket, a wallet set aside for household expenses only, and your list.
Get away to a quiet place, off grid, far from the hustle and bustle of the world, from your daily cares and concerns. Find a place to stay where meals are included, where you can get away from it all and think. Take very little with you: one change of clothes, a toothbrush, a pen and notebook are all you need. Try getting up earlier from time to time. Take breakfast in a pleasant café. Changing gear helps you to avoid becoming bogged down in routine, to live each moment with intensity. By simplifying our lives, we find new reserves of energy, we are better able to deal with people and situations. With less to do, we have more time to think, dream or just laze.
◆ Walk for half an hour every day. ◆ Take a nap when you can. ◆ Devote 15 minutes of your day to a project that is important to you. ◆ Only ever do one thing at a time. Learn to say no gracefully and firmly. ◆ Avoid routine. ◆ If you drink coffee, try tea. ◆ Vary your journey to work. ◆ Schedule your housework. ◆ Buy all of your shopping in one session, once a week. ◆ Keep your desktop free of paperwork, except for immediate tasks. A permanent pile of documents is a constant reminder of what remains to be done, a source of stress. ◆ Answer emails and letters quickly, and never leave a task half-done.
SIMPLIFY YOUR HANDBAG Your bag is an extension of you. It should be beautiful (so that you don’t need a different one every morning), lightweight, with well-designed inner pockets (so you don’t spend ten minutes searching for a train ticket), and of the very best quality. Buying a really good bag is a wise investment. It is better to have one really fine model than ten that will barely last a season, leaving you wondering what to do with them after that. A handbag plays a decorative, protective, and social role. Clearly, a good bag isn’t our only ally when it comes to getting the most out of life, but it certainly helps.
FIND JOY IN THE RITUAL THE WRITING RITUAL The act of writing may be enhanced by careful arrangement of the things around you, the paper and ink best adapted to the task, the comfort of the chair you sit in.
THE BATH RITUAL Choose minimal products of the finest quality for your face, hair and bath. Place everything to hand before you get into the water: music, candles, a glass of sparkling water. Leave the bathroom spotless, for a totally cleansed feeling.
A BAG SHOULD BE ◆ Good quality but simply styled, a pleasure to use ◆ Neutral, to fit in with your wardrobe ◆ In “your size”, like a coat or a hat, so that it will flatter your shape ◆ Filled with pleasing things that speak volumes about you: a tactile leather diary, a neat wallet, a white monogrammed handkerchief.
THE SHOPPING RITUAL
THE FLOWER RITUAL
INVESTMENT PIECE
Once a week, treat yourself to a bunch of flowers. They will brighten your home and your mood, even if you choose a single rose for your bedside table, or chrysanthemums for the bathroom. Flowers are also said to lower adrenaline levels at times of stress. Like fruit and fresh air, they are indispensable to our wellbeing. ^ Extracted from L’Art de la Simplicité by Dominique Loreau (Orion, ¤17.99).
Black City Steamer MM leather handbag, Louis Vuitton, at Brown Thomas.
CLASSIC AND COOL QUALITY FABRICS Concrete cashmere and silk pashmina, Hermès, ¤775, at Brown Thomas.
FLOWER RITUAL Handkerchief glass vase, ¤24, at Marks & Spencer.
Populate your life with timeless pieces
MODERN CLASSICS Cigar brown leather shoes, Liam Fahy, ¤228, Só Collective, at Kildare Village. UTILITARIAN DESIGN Ash crumbcatcher, Caulfield Country Boards, ¤55, at Brown Thomas.
NATURAL MATERIALS Aran beech chair, ¤699, at Aodh, The Studio, 1 Palmerstown Court, Dublin 6; www.aodh.eu.
SMART STORAGE Sedona cherry and oak sideboard, POA, at Zelouf + Bell, The Old Chocolate Factory, 515 Kilmainham Square, Dublin 8; www.zeloufandbell.com.
WRITING RITUAL Black lambskin notebook, Smythson, ¤70, at Brown Thomas.
TIME FOR EVERYTHING A Patek Philippe Ladies steel Twenty-4 with diamonds and Eternal Grey dial (from ¤11,090) is a future heirloom. At Boodles, 71 Grafton Street, Dublin 2.
SCENTED WARDROBE Perfect Linen drawer liners, ¤20; www.the white company.com.
BATH RITUAL Sous Les Glycines candle, £55stg; www.tomdaxon.com
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | May 2016 | 23
STRAP
Handcrafted Cabinetry
Rathnew, Co Wicklow Telephone 0404 65000 www.newcastledesign.ie
BY APPOINTMENT ONLY
LIVING
CLOSET CLEAROUT
Bin It… Bag It … Bring it Back to Life! It’s time for a clearout: we asked three women to try three different methods for whipping their wardrobes into shape. Here’s what happened …
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READ THIS BOOK Wine editor MARY DOWEY jettisons with the help of MARIE KONDO’s The LifeChanging Magic of Tidying Up. A book about decluttering and tidying claims magic powers and becomes a bestseller. Daft. Sad, actually. And definitely not for me. I’m quite a tidy person already - too tidy, probably, to make everyday life as relaxed as the husband would like it. Besides, what is there to declutter? When we moved house 18 months ago so many bin bags full of no-longerloved possessions were deposited at the local charity shop that the manager imposed a barring order. Marie Kondo and her self-important method were for other people, I thought – like my friend Kate who has five tons of clothes. Kate found a copy of Kondo in her Christmas stocking and in no time she was gleeful. A wardrobe stuffed to bursting point had been transformed into a space so easy
26 | May 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
to access and so elegant that it looked like the Armani rail in Brown Thomas. Maybe I’d like to borrow the book? You’ve guessed the rest. One grey afternoon, blinkers off, I looked at the stuff in my own wardrobe – some of it hidden from view, some worn and sagging, some never quite right. A quick flick through the chapter on clothing produced results so satisfying that, several months later, the new order is surprisingly easy to maintain. The first precept of the so-called KonMari Method is
Several MONTHS later the new ORDER is surprisingly easy to MAINTAIN. the most important one. Before you think about tidying, discard with absolute rigour. With belongings piled into categories – tops, trousers, jackets and so on - the recommended approach is to lift each item and ask the question: Does it spark joy? In other words, do you really, really, really like it? Any vacillation, however slight, should mean farewell (though I drew the line at thanking every blessed reject for the happiness it had given me).
Next comes the easier task of arranging what remains in the best way. I used to swap winter and summer clothing between cupboards in different rooms but Kondo is against organising by season and I think she’s right (and Ireland-appropriate, given our need of warm sweaters in July). Again, rigour is key. All footwear in the same place. All dresses together. Etcetera. Clothes to be hung up should be grouped by category, then arranged by length from longest to shortest. Fastidious – yes, but you’ll find everything in a flash. In fact, Kondo doesn’t believe in hanging all that much. She prefers folding things into drawers (or perspex boxes on shelves) in such a precise way that at first I thought I’d skip it. You fold and roll every item, then arrange them not in layers but upright in serried rows (by colour, from lightest to darkest, don’t you know). It works brilliantly. So yes, I’m a convert – but the book is a dull read from a woman who at times sounds a bit mad. Her claims that tidying eventually helps people to sort out bigger issues – weight loss, a new job, a divorce – seem distinctly overblown. Even so, the impact of her approach stretches beyond pleasingly neat drawers. From now on I’m going to buy only things that I absolutely love, when I absolutely need them. That should wipe out future clutter.
LIVING
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ENGAGE AN EXPERT Style editor AISLINN COFFEY surrenders to wardrobe wonderwoman ANNMARIE O’CONNOR. Mindfulness and fashion. Together? Former magpie and hoarder, fashion journalist, stylist, author and now closet therapist, Annmarie O'Connor is a woman I can identify with. Let’s just say we speak the same language when it comes to our love of clothes. My four-hour consultation starts with The Closet Quiz, a closet personality profile questionnaire to identify my position on The Happy Closet spectrum and address the shopping habits that underpin my current wardrobe choices. O'Connor believes that our sartorial stashes mask the emotional baggage a lot of us carry around. Am I an Impulse Buyer or a Doomsday Prepper? Arriving with her kit bag: three types of hangers – wooden for coats and jackets, velvet skinny notched hangers for tops, blouses and dresses and sturdy wooden cushion-clamped hangers for trousers and skirts – and a huge roll of black sacks, she went though my over-stuffed wardrobes item by item. I decided right then I was going to completely trust her – she is gracious, positive, open and most of all, kind. Her diagnosis? I'm a classic Impulse Buyer. "A lot of what you hold on to are pieces you used to wear – a former version of you – and pieces you paid good money for and keep for that reason." O'Connor holds that whether you have a small wardrobe or a large walk-in, you need to organise it effectively to make choosing your clothes and getting dressed as easy as possible. Her top tips? The best hanger buys are at Penneys (three for ¤3), Dunnes Stores and Howard's Storage World. Keep sweaters folded on shelves. Never double up on one hanger. Be sure to button up coats and shirts completely or at least every other button to keep them in mint condition, lengthening their life. Place all same-coloured and patterned items together so you can find your clothing as quickly as possible. The mini closet clearout also involves a follow-up plan of action including a series of behavioural exercises tailored to your type (and you specifically) that you can put in place. The Happy Closet by Annmarie O'Connor (Gill Books, ¤14.99).
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OUTSOURCE THE TASK Student DAISY HICKEY tidies up with the help of SARAH REYNOLDS of Organised Chaos.
It became hard to stay on top of things – literally, as my floordrobe started to stratificate. I have two drawers and a wardrobe at my disposal but I rarely hung up or folded anything. Sarah Reynolds is a professional organiser with Organised Chaos. When she met me and my poor, beleaguered bedroom, she told me two very reassuring facts. Firstly, everybody organises differently and I just haven’t taught myself how to organise. And secondly, I am stuck for space, and space is so important. According to Sarah, my lack of space versus volume of clothes is a major problem. She gave me five steps. This sounds scary, but it is best to pull everything out, and have a good look at each item. You can only then have an awareness as to how much you have, which you need to know in order to make space. Categorise. Put like with like: hang eveningwear with eveningwear, put your chunky knits with chunky knits. Make sure your categories are as broad as possible. A good tip is to take stock – count how many coats, bags, pairs of shoes you have. This is invaluable when at IKEA buying myriad storage boxes …
the above, and these would inevitably be thrown on my
UTILITARIAN BAG MINIMALIST LUXE: black leather bucket bag, £450stg, www. envoyofbelfast.com
BALLET FLATS SECOND SKIN: Summer Beige leather ballet shoes, ¤149; www. josefinas.com
CLASSIC TRENCH FLATTERING FIT: Sand cotton trench coat (sizes 6-28), ¤125, at Marks & Spencer.
CASHMERE IRISH SUMMERWORTHY: off-white lightweight cashmere sweater, from a selection, N Peal at Kildare Village.
Sarah teaches me to fold by showing me. The principle is to form a square with the item. Beyond that, no Abercrombie-and-Fitch-level expertise is necessary, thankfully. To save space in my drawers, she tells me to stack my jumpers, and lay them on their side, so that I can have a good view of what I have. It is impossible to maintain neatness without an open mind – a regular purge is always necessary – the longer we hold onto things, the more emotionally attached we become. She also told me to angle my shoes for extra space, and for overthe-knee boots, to use inserts. By slightly adapting my habits and heeding Sarah’s advice, I have seen a real change in my bedroom, my wardrobe and my room as a whole. ^ www.organisedchaos.ie
SWIMWEAR A STATEMENT TAKE ON A CLASSIC DESIGN: Black Alexandra swimsuit, Solid & Striped, ¤187; www. net-a-porter.com.
AN APPROACH FOR EVERY PERSONALITY THE KONMARI METHOD
ANNMARIE O'CONNOR
ORGANISED CHAOS
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Start immediately and tidy all at once.
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Organise your clothes so they're easily visible.
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Set a time limit – organising can be tiring.
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Tidy by category, not location.
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Good hangers are vital.
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Keep flat surfaces clear.
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Tidy in this order: clothes, books, paper.
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A capsule work wardrobe will help you dress quickly.
Let the space available determine what you keep.
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Determine if each item you're keeping "sparks joy".
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Never double clothes up on one hanger.
Storage boxes aren't always key to organising.
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Discard immediately, before placing things back.
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Place like coloured items together for ease of finding.
Don't zig-zag between rooms as you work – create bundles.
with part-time work on the weekends and a busy social life filling the gaps. I bought clothes that would suit all of
Don't shun shopping. These new season pieces are designed to last a lifetime
A regular PURGE is always necessary – the longer we hold onto things, the MORE emotionally attached we become.
I wasn’t always messy. The carnage began during my first term at university. I suddenly had an irregular routine
BUYS THAT WILL SPARK JOY
bedroom floor between activities.
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | May 2016 | 27
FASHION
Linda Rodin
STYLING NOTE The high-low balance? Elevate denim with a well-cut jacket ...
ARCHITECTURAL
COURREGES
An asymmetric-cut jacket will hug the slimmest part of your waist. Peplum styles work particularly well over jeans.
FIT PARADE A neat cut, and cropped length will keep this hard-wearing jacket from feeling bulky.
HOW TO WEAR DENIM NOW
Fashion's influencers share their top tips on how to style denim in a grown-up way, writes AISLINN COFFEY
MARGARET HOWELL
STYLE AT ANY AGE:
Brushed leather jacket, Rick Owens, from a selection at Havana, Donnybrook, Dublin 4. Brown leather belt, Gucci, d490, at Brown Thomas.
STATEMENT PIECE Military and bomber jackets are officially the jackets of the season.
S H OP L I K E A P R O
THE DIE HARD Anita Barr, Group Buying Director at Harvey Nichols, started her fashion career as the denim specialist at Harrods in the early 1990s. "I have the great gift of looking at body shapes and knowing exactly what Rosie jeans will work," she told us Huntigtonon a recent trip to Dublin. BARR'S OWN STYLING TIP: "Flared jeans with raised waistbands hold your stomach in beautifully. Wear with a long-line top and wedges so your proportions are balanced. Stella McCartney's are really great. Don't ever consider flats with flares." DRESSING FOR YOUR AGE: "Embroidery, vintage treatments and patches on denim are huge this season: look out for LA label Sandrine Rose. After a certain age, these details are best avoided." NEW SEASON UPDATES: "Ankle-length culottes are key, worn with trainers or slides. Also, 1970s flares – to the floor – with wedges. Frayed hems are huge too. A white or light wash paired with a bohemian top is definitely the look of the season – check out Paige's grey Hoxton studded-waistband jeans. A little stretch makes denim comfortable."
OFF DUTY Pair a simple T-shirt with a great belt and bag
Whitley for Paige.
Mid-blue wash flared jeans, Stella McCartney, d332; Embellished straight-leg jeans, Sandrine Rose; Zia wedges, Étoile Isabel Marant, d265; all Click + Collect at Harvey Nichols.
28 | May 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
Navy twill military jacket, Étoile Isabel Marant, d520, at Brown Thomas. Gold Hoop Bar earrings, d40; www.whistles.com.
“You can be the chicest thing in the world in a T-shirt and jeans – it’s up to you.”
VESTED INTEREST A well-tailored sleeveless jacket instantly smartens up any look.
KARL LAGERFELD
Clockwise from left: White leather clutch, d110; www.stories.com. The Fifth white cotton T-shirt, d30; www.thestoreboutique.com. Stripe belt, Stella Jean, d90, at Havana.
Pink sleeveless jacket, d70, at Marks & Spencer, Nubuck shopper, d230; www. whistles.com.
Indoors and and out, out, celebrate celebrate all all things things summer summer Indoors Werelish relishevery everymoment momentwe wecan canspend spendalfresco. alfresco.So Socreate createaa We spacewhere wherethe theday daywill willnever neverwant wantto toend. end. space
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We relish every moment we can spend alfresco. So create a space where the day will never want to end.
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FASHION OTHER WAYS TO WEAR DENIM Denim culottes, spotted at SS16 New York Fashion Week.
Stylist Linda Tol wearing denim pussy bow blouse.
"There’s more to denim than jeans – a great denim shirt, a button-up jacket and skirt all have their place in any modern, wardrobe. Invest in the best quality denim you can afford and focus on fit." Laura Larbalestier, buying director, Browns.
IF YOU ONLY BUY ONE TH ING Fashion insiders are wearing their jeans cropped, fringed and non-stretch this season. The label to watch? 3x1 worn with white sneakers or statement heels. Never sling new jeans into the machine with everything else: wear as much as possible before the first wash; use a cold-water cycle; do not tumble dry. www.3x1.us
Denim dress, d49.95, at Zara.
STYLING NOTE Wear denim at any age ...
60s LOOSEN UP Former fashion editor Linda Wright looks effortlessly cool in soft, wide-leg jeans.
DENIM AT EVERY AGE Denim has no age limit. In fact, jeans are consistently named as a favourite item of clothing among those aged 50+. However, as you get older, quality and fit become more important. Jeans with stretch tend to be forgiving (your bottom may not be where it used to be) while a mid-rise is flattering on the midsection. Need some extra support? Spanx offers two styles of jeans – Boyfriend and Skinny Crop. Both are reassuringly figure-hugging due to their stretch and structure. J Brand is known for its inky dyes and lack of markings and logos. Keep it simple: avoid fancy stitching, bells and whistles on complicated embellishments. Fifty-eight-year-old Inès Marks & Spencer (Sculpt and Lift range, ¤47.50) and Boden de la Fressange's signature (Eton wide cropped-leg denim trousers with soft pleated look is a tailored blazer, jeans and Roger Vivier flats. front, ¤79.50) offer a wide selection of affordable styles.
NIP TUCK Feminine and ladylike, the failsafe blouse is having a major fashion moment. Tucking yours in is essential.
LONDON'S LATEST Laura Larbalestier, buying director at iconic fashion store Browns, shares her top denim tips exclusively with THE GLOSS. THE SS16 TRENDS? "Cropped flares are making a comeback and look fresh with a block heel. Also, the "fashion" jean is having a real moment." COOL TO CUSTOMISE: "Have fun with your denim; cuff your jeans; add patches; unpick the hems. Re/Done jeans repurposes vintage Levi's – hand-cutting and resewing them based on the trends of the season. They retain the beauty of a vintage pair but have a modern fit." OFF-DUTY DENIM: "I like the "high-low mix" – teaming a pair of relaxed jeans with a statement top or this season's must-have bomber jacket. Denim can look just as good with a pair of Stan Smith sneakers as it does with fancy flats." DENIM BY NIGHT: "Alessandra Rich, known for eveningwear, incorporated denim into her collection for the first time this season. Her denim jackets, body-conscious dresses and sleek jumpsuits are expertly cut. Fashion designers of the moment Vetements, Adam Selman and Marques Almeida have really reenergised this aesthetic." Frayed denim frill top, ¤280; denim frill skirt, ¤465; both Marques Almeida. Black Leticia block heel sandals, ¤530, Tabitha Simmons, all at www.brownsfashion.com.
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50s SUIT YOUR SILHOUETTE Cindy Crawford knows what looks good on her and sticks to two flattering shapes: skinny and flared-leg.
Embellished metallic jacket, Dries Van Noten, d1,510; www. mytheresa.com. Blue Stella fringed jeans, $295; Denim (wash) Solution, $22; both www.3x1.us.
DESIGNER TAKE Chloe Lonsdale, founder and chief creative officer of MiH Jeans, is celebrating her tenth birthday in the business. She brings us up to date on the denim mood ... SILHOUETTE UPDATE: "There's a real movement towards vintage fits in non- or low-stretch denim. They are worn by my most stylish friends." THE FIT: "A vintage fit works for all body types – it defines the waist and flattens the tummy. Cropped flares have the same proportion-balancing power as full-length flares. Pair with heeled ankle boots or sneakers depending on your height." DOUBLE DENIM? "I’ve always been an advocate. Triple denim can be harder to pull off but when done right – a pair of vintage-cut jeans, a washedout denim shirt and a denim trench coat – it feels effortless." STYLING TIPS "Play with proportions – wear cropped flares with mid-heel ankle boots. I love the contrast of the wide hem and the tight boot. Wear straightleg jeans with a simple white cotton T-shirt tucked in and flat sandals. A flash of ankle is great." MiH's ten-year anniversary Cult Denim Project collection is available this month at www.mih-jeans.com.
40s INVEST IN QUALITY Sofia Coppola favours Charvet shirts and lady-like flats with jeans. Wear with classic accessories.
30s JUST ADD ACCESSORIES Petite fashion poster girl Miroslava Duma pairs her jeans with seasonal must-haves.
20s
ANYTHING GOES Experiment with fit, colour and wash. Mom jeans, as seen here on Leandra Medine, are key for SS16.
an everyday masterpiece the beauty of art; the quality of caeserstone
Miller Brothers Stone, Charvey Lane, Rathnew, Co. Wicklow
T: 0404 32222 sales@millerbros.ie www.millerbros.ie
SOCIAL LIFE
ELIZABETH OLSEN:
My GLOSSY
WEEKEND
California-born Olsen has been acting since she was four. Her breakout role was in 2011’s indie hit Martha Marcy May Marlene, for which she received critical acclaim. She is the younger sister of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen.
Clockwise from below: The Butcher’s Daughter, Venice. Rising Lotus Yoga, Sherman Oaks. A charcuterie plate. Venice, California. Mohawk General Store, Silver Lake.
I’m an early riser – I have a Saturday morning routine which involves making coffee and reading the New York Times and The Skimm for an hour. My house is very open – it’s a doughnut shape – and I have a lovely little breakfast nook. I live in the hills, with a little deck in my backyard, so I spend a lot of time out there. I go on a really amazing hike that takes me quite a distance from my house but the views over the ocean as the sun is rising makes it worthwhile. If I can’t make it for one reason or another, at around 11am I do some sort of a workout, either sprint training at a local park or kickboxing in the gym. I meet up with friends for lunch afterwards somewhere in Venice. There’s a cool new restaurant called BUTCHER’S DAUGHTER on Abbott Kinney Boulevard we’ve been going to a lot recently – it’s a really nice space with a good vibe. I do most of my shopping when I’m out of town, but there’s a store in Silver Lake called MOHAWK GENERAL STORE (www. mohawkgeneralstore.com) that I like. If I have to buy clothes for an event, I go to MARNI (www.marni.com). When it comes to dinner, I’m a creature of habit. I basically go to about three places and I don’t go out afterwards, or go to bars. I like staying at the restaurant until late.
Actress ELIZABETH OLSEN, star of Captain America: Civil War, spends her weekends in Hollywood
B
eing an actress, I’m largely unemployed. I still try to work Monday to Friday, whether it’s reading a script, researching or gun training, which I’m doing at the moment. On Friday afternoon I start cooking dinner for my roommate. We’re basically like a very good, old married couple. She’s a vegetarian who doesn’t eat dairy so I’m limited, but I get creative. If I don’t understand the ratios, I will look up a recipe but otherwise I just make it up as I go. I put together a farro salad with pesto, roasted broccolini, carrots and squash and serve it with kale. It’s a fun, easy meal. I also like to make a Martha Stewart roast chicken, which my dad loves. I’m a big fan of cheddar, so I’ll snack on that in the kitchen when I cook. I like Italian and Spanish wines, and I’m really interested in Grenache and Grenache blends, so we inevitably open a bottle, but I don’t stay up late.
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SUNDAY I do a morning yoga class at RISING LOTUS in Sherman Oaks (www.risinglotusyoga.com), where I
MARNI
SATURDAY
have been going for the past eight years. I set an intention for my week there every Sunday – I call it “yoga church” because it has a perfect balance between humour, spirituality and morality. I leave on Cloud Nine: it centres me and leaves me completely blissed out. On Sunday afternoon I go grocery shopping. I like Erewhon, Gelson’s, Whole Foods Market and a speciality cheese shop called ARTISAN CHEESE GALLERY on Ventura Boulevard (www.artisancheesegallery-la.com). They have the most amazing goat and sheep’s feta that’s marinated in olive oil and peppercorns, and I pick up some gouda, bread and fennel sausage there too. When I entertain, I always make a cheese and charcuterie board and listen to 1940s jazz. There is a large island in the centre of my kitchen and my friends and I will generally gather there if we’re not outside. I rent my place, and it came with an ancient projector, which makes every movie look super-green. On Sunday night, I’ll make an early dinner and watch something old, like The Way We Were, with my roommate to finish off the weekend. ^ In conversation with Sarah Breen. Captain America: Civil War is out now.
BEAUTY
Buffet
MARY KATRANTZOU
BY SARAH HALLIWELL
THIS MO N TH
WE’RE WEARING ... THE BEST BRONZERS
CREAM CLEANSER
Our very discerning tanning tester raves about BELLAMIANTA Self Tanning Lotion (a19.99, at pharmacies) for an easy tan without the giveaway smell – in fact it’s her outright favourite. TAN ORGANIC (2) Self Tan Oil has everything going for it – no smell, no need for gloves, a glossy even colour, and it’s Irish. a24.99; tanorganic.com. The current trend is for sophisticated super-light oils so you can customblend, such as M&S (1) Autograph Self Tan Luxe Facial Oil (a13). If you’d rather leave it to the experts, the latest tanning destinations to book into include BRAZILIA salons: the waxing experts now offer Bronze Leaf treatments; a25; www.brazilia.ie.
Oil or cream, gel or balm: it can be tricky to nail down the right cleanser to suit your skin type. Our current pick is TRILOGY (4) AgeProof Active Enzyme Cleansing Cream combines natural oils with active fruit enzymes so you get a light and natural exfoliation while steering clear of the dreaded plastic microbeads. a30.95, at Arnotts, and pharmacies nationwide.
1
2 4
A SUMMER SPRITZ ORMONDE JAYNE (3) fragrances have just arrived at Parfumarija. Our pick is elegant Vanille d’Iris, rich in Tahitian vanilla – it’s both intriguing and memorable. 25 Westbury Mall, Dublin 2; www.parfumarija.com.
THE ESSEN TIA L
SELECTION Parisian chic at shoestring prices – rediscovering Bourjois
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hen a beauty pro like Christine Lucignano raves about a brand, we take note: her experience reaches over three decades, and she’s worked with everyone from Hollywood actresses to Bill Clinton. While Lucignano is utterly devoted to exclusive brands such as Chanel and By Terry, there’s a pharmacy label that always makes its way into her kit: Bourjois, which she describes as “Chanel’s little sister”. In fact, Bourjois predates Chanel, and has been making blurring, setting powder, Poudre de Riz, since the 1890s (great for on-camera, notes Lucignano). And the brand remains peerless for its slowbaked powders: the Little Round Pots for eyes or cheeks – still manufactured in the same facility as Chanel – are a steal at under ¤10. Try the Quad Smokey Stories palette (¤10.49), “the LBD of eyes”. “It’s a masstige brand with the feel and expertise of prestige – I really believe that,” says Lucignano. New launches like Soufflé de Velvet – think fruitbitten lips – conceal superior French make-up knowhow in the simplest packaging, which is what keeps prices down. And Bourjois’ Soir de Paris (available on Bourjois.fr) was created by Ernest Beaux, the genius perfume who came up with Coco’s No 5 in the 1920s. The pharmacy is calling ...
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DESERT STORM Sand and spice shades hot from the catwalks are heating up beauty counters: MAC’s Pro Longwear Waterproof Colour Stick in Sand Bar (C28) extends the trend for brown-toned lip colour to eyes. At Brown Thomas from May 19.
TAKE THREE Skincare at every stage 1. No7 Lift & Luminate Triple Action is BOOTS’ most effective serum yet, with excellent clinical test results for ages 45+ on firming, reducing wrinkles and evening skin tone. c38. 2. Aimed at ages 30+, the LANCÔME Energie de Vie range energises skin with natural antioxidants such as goji berry. Skin will drink up this refreshing liquid moisturiser – think of it as superfood for your skin. c37.
BOOKING IN ... For classy manis, pedis and facials in luxe surroundings (think wood, marble and Aoife Mullane textiles) try new beauty destination OSLO – a blowdry bar will be added shortly, and a second location in Ranelagh is already planned. 67 Mespil Road, Dublin 4; www.inoslo.ie
3. Ages 20-something should aim to keep it simple. Invest in protective DECLÉOR Hydra Floral SPF30 Anti-Pollution Hydrating Fluid, c56.
3
RAG & BONE
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG AW16
BEAUTY THE POWER TOOL
SOFT RINGLETS Soft, non-frizzy curls at Rag & Bone: the mood is “come as you are”.
ROLAND MOURET
BOTTEGA VENETA
DONE BUT UNDONE Loose waves and curls are layered to give volume.
MICA MANIA Argentinian model Mica Arganaraz is helping to popularise curls.
The New Wave Why you should ditch the s
T
here’s a time and place for sleek, superstyled hair, but the mood this summer is a whole lot more casual. It’s time to step away from the straightening irons: relaxed, wavy styles with long fringes and a laissez-faire looseness are what’s looking modern now. It fits with a longing for the raw, relaxed and low-maintenance – the antithesis of contrived preening. The distinctive un-dos of models like Freya Beja Eriksson and Mica Arganaraz are making us all want to loosen up. “There’s some great inspiration around at the moment for curls: think lived-in and let-down, as seen in the summer campaigns for Sonia Rykiel, Chloé and Missoni,” says stylist and curl enthusiast Zara Cox of Zara Cox@29. We want the no-fuss, no-product waviness of Vetements, Fendi’s soft waves and even the crimping at Gucci (as if hair’s been plaited when wet and let out the next morning). There’s a dash of the 1980s about it all – a hint of Lori Singer in Footloose and Flashdance’s Jennifer Beals. For autumn, this relaxed mood is set to continue: influential stylist Sam McKnight sums up AW16 as “a season of simplicity and individuality”. So rollers at the ready for curly crops and cherub-inspired ringlets as seen at Chanel and Westwood.
THE MAINTENANCE “With curly hair, it’s a different way of working – I tend to work on it dry,” says Cox. “My tip is to go into the salon with your hair clean, dry and product-free, and not tied up, so the stylist can see the curls as you wear them. And make sure your stylist actually likes working with curly hair: it takes a real understanding, for
traighteners this summer ..
.
curly haired people more than anyone else. Find someone who loves your hair – some people are frightened of it.” Curls should never be a limitation, Cox continues: “Don’t think you have to wear curly hair only one way – I always teach ways to change curls a bit, and give a client more than one option.” Even if your hair is stubbornly flat, wrest movement into it with the twist technique used by Aveda’s Antoinette Beenders at Stella McCartney’s pre-fall 2016 show: “Use Be Curly StylePrep on damp hair to add moisture and definition. Twist small sections of curls around fingers all over the head, then flip the head forward and blow-dry using a diffuser. Once dry, use a wide comb for fluffy, bouncy curls. Curl Enhancing Hair Spray ensures frizz control.” Otherwise, do it the old-fashioned way with a lot of pins, preferably overnight on damp hair. ^
The key to frizz-free curls is avoiding heat damage: once done, it’s irreversible. Cox advises: “If you use too much heat you’ll flatten curls. A diffuser adds volume but can overheat the hair; instead get a mesh hair sock for the end of your dryer – it doesn’t heat up the same way so you can get right into the roots of the hair.” The team at DYSON have made temperature a focus for their new Supersonic dryer, launching next month. Dyson have invested over ¤60m in a dedicated hair lab and spent years testing real hair to examine damage and shine from root to tip. The ergonomic Supersonic will spoil you for other hairdryers for ever after: it’s quieter, lighter, with a focused jet of air and innovative heat control technology so it never damages with extreme temperatures, and attachments are magnetic. The Porsche of haircare. ¤399, at Arnotts and www.dyson.ie from June.
THE CARE “Prep products are more tactile now so you can have curls that are defined but not hard,” says Cox. She rates SEBASTIAN Whipped Cream, and BUMBLE AND BUMBLE Seasalt Spray. Brenda Mullen of Vanilla Hairdressing, Rathmines, uses KÉRASTASE Curl Discipline: “Leavein products give curls further definition without weighing them down.” Be Curly Curl Enhancer is AVEDA’s best-selling styling product in Ireland and the UK.
TAKE THREE Make an appointment with a curl expert
1
ZARA COX is “a master of curly hair – she brings life and order to it,” enthuses lifelong client Christine Lucignano. Zara Cox@29, 2nd floor, 29 Wicklow St, Dublin 2; 01 548 3404.
2
Curly haired clients rave about KAREN HEFFERNAN, Peter Mark stylist and salon educator. Visit her at the new salon, 198 Lower Rathmines Road, Rathmines, Dublin 6; 01 497 2197; www.petermark.ie.
3
SHANE BOYD and team at the natural cut have a dedicated following for their dry cuts to suit curly hair. First Floor, 33/34 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2; 01 679 7130; www.thenaturalcut.ie.
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | May 2016 | 35
BOOKS
PAST TENSE
In order to make sense of her German heritage, author MIA GALLAGHER looked to her Berlin-born grandmother, who moved to Ireland shortly after Hitler’s rise to power
M
y mum’s mother Maureen died when I was seven, so my memories of her are fragmented: a smile, a rose-filled garden. But my other grandmother, Lisa, died when I was 28 and I have a far more complete image of her. I adored Lisa – she was fun, clever, kind, a great listener and a wonderful cook. Important things to a child, to a teenager trying to find her place in the world. Lisa and my grandfather Roland lived in Waterford, so visiting them always felt exotic. There was the long drive there, the family dinners served on the lovely mahogany table. The outings to Tramore – Lisa loved swimming – and her fascinating, eclectic friends. The marzipan cakes she baked at Easter, the strange-textured spice cookies at Christmas, the thrill that she never just gave us one present each, but a staggering six. There was her hair, which she wore in a glamorous bun. And, of course, the fact that she was German. From the start, Dad taught us to be proud of our ethnicity. Being part-German was different, but different was interesting, and interesting was good. We had evidence: we opened our presents on Christmas Eve instead of having to wait until the following morning. We had Santa Claus and Sankt Nikolaus, we got treats in a slipper on December 6. And Lisa was terrific and she was German, so no argument. I was around six, and watching a movie on television, when I noticed the baddies were German. I realised in Dad’s Army, the baddies were Germans too. Actually, Germans were always baddies on television. I was troubled. How could Lisa – who was clearly "good" – belong to a "bad" people? Did that make me ‘bad’? Why are the Germans always bad? I asked Dad. I can’t remember his answer. Was I looking for one, or did I just need to ask the question? The Sound of Music. When Hitler Stole Pink Rabbit. Fawlty Towers. Versailles, Lebensraum, the Final Solution. The more I learnt about Germany’s history, the more my grandmother’s story niggled at me. Then, in my teens, I mentioned the War. One of my strongest memories is the conversation Lisa and I had in 1984, before I left home to au pair in Germany. Over that wintry weekend, she told me stories. About coming to Ireland at 18 – the same age I was then. How she’d thought the Niedersachsen sailors were English, because of their dialect. About falling in love with my grandfather – a dentist who’d fought in the Flying Columns. About growing up in 1920s Germany: the depression, the terrible ersatz coffee, the wheelbarrow full of useless marks her mother brought to the grocer’s to buy bread. She spoke about returning to Germany in 1934, after two years in Ireland. The thing that got her was the cigarettes. Lisa relished her ciggies, but the new Führer loathed young women smoking in public. The penalty was disapproval,
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BEDSIDE TABLE
What is ARIANNA HUFFINGTON reading?
Clockwise from left: Mia Gallagher. Gallagher with her German grandmother Lisa in 1969. Lisa with Gallagher's father Gerhardt and uncle Leonard in 1939.
Co-founder and editor-in-chief of The Huffington Post, Arianna Huffington is the author of 13 books, including Thrive, which sparked public debate about how we define success. Her latest, The Sleep Revolution, highlights how we should reevaluate sleep in our lives. WH Allen, 025.50
reprimands, a quick escorting off the premises. Hearing this, I felt outrage, followed by that old, troubling confusion. Hitler’s administration had murdered millions, yet I was outraged because they’d chastised middle-class German girls for smoking? Later, I heard other stories. The day Lisa went to vote and noticed a pair of black boots standing at one side of her booth, a pair of brown boots the other. How, towards the end of the War, my great-aunt Eva met a group of skeletal Jews hiding in the dunes and gave them a lift to the Danish border. All of them – twelve – fitted in her Fiat. I learnt about the scorn Eva felt towards Hitler when he came to power. How Lisa, fearing for her family, prayed for Germany during the War. More questions: Had Eva not known about the camps? Why? Seeing the SS and Stormtroopers’ boots, how would I have voted? Why didn’t the educated bourgeoisie see Hitler for what he was instead of laughing at him? Would I have prayed for a fascist regime? And why did Eva and my greatgrandmother never talk about what happened when the Red Army arrived in their hometown in 1945? Many Germans my age have experienced "collective-guilt’" a weird sense of responsibility for actions that happened long before they were born. I don’t know how we inherit this: DNA? The movies? But when I started writing Beautiful Pictures of the Lost Homeland I wanted it in some way to touch on Germany. In my novel, Georgie, an Irish child, encounters Lotte, a young Anglo-German woman with a secret. It’s 1976. Lotte is not Lisa: her people come from a different part of the German-speaking world, she lands in a different Ireland. But in a way, she’s let me grapple with some of the questions my own German heritage has left me. Not to find answers, necessarily – but to share the feeling of having those questions, that conflicted emotional inheritance, in the first place. ^ Beautiful Pictures of the Lost Homeland (¤14.95, New Island) is out now.
RECLAIMING CONVERSATION by Sherry Turkle Sherry Turkle is one of our pre-eminent thinkers on the ways technology impacts our lives. She shows us how to make more meaningful human connections and how to embrace – not fear – the risks and rewards of true companionship and intimacy. Reclaiming Conversation is a clarion call to the importance of getting together and having face-to-face conversations, and renegotiating our increasingly one-sided relationship with our devices. Penguin, C19.50
DISCOVER YOUR TRUE NORTH by Bill George George, a Harvard Business School professor and former CEO of Medtronic, has been a leader in bringing meditation into the world of business. As he put it, “If you’re fully present on the job, you will be more effective as a leader. You will make better decisions.” His profiles of leaders allow us to learn from their successes and failures, and his practical exercises give us the tools to develop our own leadership qualities. John Wiley & Sons, Inc, C32.50
DANGEROUSLY SLEEPY by Alan Derickson Throughout the 19th century, as was the case with factories, machines, and workers, sleep became just another commodity to be exploited. To compel workers to support this new way of working, going without sleep was cast as what Derickson calls “heroic wakefulness”. Sleep became a sign of “unmanly weakness,” and this macho notion persists to this day – a way of measuring masculinity without a ruler. University of Pennsylvania Press, about C44
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THEGLOSS.IE Fashion and beauty news from style editor AISLINN COFFEY and beauty editor SARAH HALLIWELL • Brand new recipes from food writer TRISH DESEINE • Wine recommendations from wine expert MARY DOWEY • Weekly interviews with the most talented Irish writers • And all the BEST FEATURES from previous issues that you may have missed ...
This picture: The Artemis Vinyard, New South Wales. Left: View of Sydney’s Opera House and Harbour Bridge.
MAN in A SUITCASE TIM MAGEE has been seduced by the land down under – just don’t ask him to choose between Sydney and Melbourne
T
here is a series of prints in the NATIONAL GALLERY OF VICTORIA by Eugene von Guérard, an Austrian-born Australian landscape painter. Von Guérard’s father was a miniaturist and the detail in the work shows Eugene had planned to follow him into the Viennese family trade, but that was until the shiny lure of gold and those yellow bricks brought him to Oz. The images look like they’re from every corner of the globe, and not necessarily this globe. Otherworldly, they could be original illustrations from Lord of the Rings or set sketches for the next Game of Thrones. The set designers saying okay, we have to build a world, what do we need to cover the bases? You do a dense jungle-y rainforest thing, I’ll do deserts. We need alpine mountain ranges and lush green meadows. Don’t forget the coasts, add contrast, infinite white beaches and rugged wild black cliffs, you know the score. Fire in an escarpment somewhere – the audience loves an escarpment. If you need plants just use the ones from Jurassic Park and add some makey-uppy animals. Von Guérard didn’t need to go to every corner of the earth, or even cross this country, to capture this world. Middle Earth and Westeros were more or less directly on his doorstep. And over a hundred years after his death, his Australia has only changed around the edges. The best way to get your head around the enormity and emptiness of Australia is to take the contiguous USA, remove 90 per cent of the people, then take away everything between the coasts. Remove all the cities and towns, leaving nothing but some scattered indigenous people, hung-over miners and animals that can hurt you. Then turn it up to gas mark seven. From the remaining bits on the coasts that still have all the people you then just
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minus the gun culture and the “dollar is king” religion, then give everybody an obsession with outdoor life, wine, good food and looking out for each other, or mateship. And there you have it, the United States of Australia. Like America, but run by Scandinavians. My trip started with a good night’s sleep after white linen dining, cosseted by cocktails from the plush lounge in the five star gaff where I was staying. And that was just the plane. If you have the option, this is too far to go in economy. You don’t lose any time there or back, and you don’t end up banjaxed from trying to sleep in a car seat for two days while three toasted lads in Mayo jerseys talk about the birds in Coogee. I was supposed to travel with another airline via London but at the last minute took no chances with Etihad’s business class. The first leg was good, like you’d expect from the front of a plane with a classy carrier, but the second and much longer flight from Abu Dhabi to Sydney was on an A380, and it was magic. The thing with this huge quiet beauty is that business class is on the substantial top storey, so it was like being on a giant private jet. The bane of long haul, the toilets are cleaned by toilet fairies every two shakes of a lamb’s tail, like on the Orient Express. Dinner and bartending is whenever you want it. After 24 hours of catching up on work, sleep and movies, I arrived in Australia in better nick than I’d left. I don’t know if Australia has a tagline but it should simply be “We have everything”. And they actually have everything twice. I split my trip between Sydney and Melbourne as it was like being asked to choose between San Francisco and New York, if they were just an hour from each other. Although there was a daily tendency towards gluttony and sloth, the most overriding sin from the seven that I kept slipping up on was envy. Australians have plenty
The Old Clare Hotel, Sydney.
This picture: The Grand Pacific Drive. Below: “View on the Upper Mitta Mitta” by Eugène von Guérard, at the National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne.
of real estate that looks like Mars and is nearly as far away, but those two sparkling cities on the coast really do have everything. Both Olympic cities are the real capitals of Oz. Both are built on a delicious foundation of gold medal coffee and bread, and the subconscious urban planning that means you are never more than 15 minutes from some oasis that is trying to outdo the next with spectacular coffee and real sourdough. All cities should have been planned or at least be retrofitted to accommodate these twin standards. We have maybe five places in our entire country that would pass muster. Unusually too, the Australian cafés aren’t exclusively staffed with the mandatory, international justadd-water mix of frothy baby beards, tattoos, jingling piercings and spray-on jeans. Both towns have the compelling, niggling call of beach life. This is my kind of head-wreck. There is something that runs interference in my brain if I am in a proper city that is a cheap taxi ride away from the ocean and from beaches dressed with locals and great food. It’s hard to concentrate on anything else when the thing you long
TRAVEL Clockwise from below: Hotel Lindrum, Melbourne. The rooftop pool at The Old Clare Hotel, Sydney. Gowings Bar & Grill at QT, Sydney.
TIM ’S AUSSIE ADDRESS BO O K SYDNEY FOR FUTURISTIC GLAMOUR …. Stay at QT, right in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. It’s walking distance to all the best big name shopping. QT Hotel, 49 Market Street, Sydney; www. qthotelsandresorts.com
FOR HANDSOME HERITAGE … The Old Clare has re-modelled rooms, a cracking Jason Atherton restaurant and a dinky rooftop pool. The Old Clare Hotel, 1 Kensington Street, Chippendale; www.theoldclarehotel.com.au
FOR DINNER WITH A VIEW ... Try the pre-theatre at Bennelong in Sydney Opera House – it may be the best-looking restaurant in the world. Bennelong, Bennelong Point, Sydney; www.bennelong.com.au
for throughout the year is just around the corner. Yes, it’s a lovely exhibition but I could be on the beach across the road now, or goodness me what cool shops you have, I’ll have to plan to come back and have a proper look after my swim. Except this is also the place for cool shops (see Envy). Some places are better than others but in general our high streets are no different to the precincts across the UK – a dull selection box of a dozen anchors that have no business being anywhere except decorating motorways. Australia does love its shopping centres – it exports them, and the skills that have built these centres with their busy food courts where that term is in no way derogatory. But in Sydney and Melbourne the approach to shopping means that for the most part these two cities are actually clusters of villages, with more one-off shopping and neighbourhood diamonds than you can shake a credit card at.
This is a COUNTRY of HEADS that haven’t learned to LOOK people up and down. This is a long way to come to not see some countryside. From Melbourne an hour or so will take you out to the gorgeous Yarra Valley and onto the food and wine playground of Mornington Peninsula. The same will transport you from Sydney to the micro-climate mash-up of Kenya and Kansas in the Southern Highlands, or to the annoyingly stunning living postcards via the Grand Pacific Drive. It does get toasty, mind. The warmest day reached 44 degrees on the drive back to Sydney from Rick Stein’s BANNISTERS, by the sea in Mollymook. I am mostly a lizard when it comes to sun, but consider that 44 degrees is the record temperature ever recorded in France. Ever. On a day trip to the Artemis vineyard in the Southern Highlands I was offered a tasting board boasting that everything was sourced from within 80km of the cellar door. At first glance I thought, big deal, there’s a good
FOR A UNIQUE SPLURGE … chef in east Cork whose menu is sourced from 12km away – ah the pets, I thought. Then I realised that they really mean everything was from within 80km – not just the ridiculous charcuterie, but the perfect pinot, the peppery olive oil, the olives, the bread, even the board itself. Australia may have everything, but it isn’t perfect. Aside from being home to too many prehistoric teeth, tendrils and tentacles there still seems to be a blind spot when talking about the continent’s first tenants. Even the most polished speakers I met on this trip hadn’t figured out how to articulate their relationship with the aboriginal people. The best progress I’d seen was an edible one where chefs – often myopic with self-regard – are best fitting in with the indigenous people through food and the oldest approach to nature on Earth, realising that it sometimes might be better to go backwards to go forwards. I’m not judging, Ireland is no model when it comes to our ethnic minorities, domestic or otherwise, but it is so surprising because there isn’t anywhere in the English-speaking world that seems more devoid of a divide, class or financial, as Down Under. This lot don’t even know what envy is. I don’t know of a place that has less snobbery, and nowhere is less boastful. This is a country of heads that haven’t learned to look people up and down. I stuck my head into one of the best restaurants in Australia early one evening. A long day of wine-tasting the day before meant that I hadn’t the wits for my wardrobe when I had crept off to the beach to recover (always with the envy). I had just stopped by to warn them I would be a bit late. Scalded and caked in sand with a head like an Aussie Worzel Gummidge I would have been stopped at the door or had change tossed at me in London, New York or Dublin, but here they actually tried to show me to my table without raising an eyebrow. And that was the most striking thing about Australia. Not their coffee, their food, their wine, their style of shopping, or their idyllic version of America. It’s not even the bloody weather that makes me so envious – it’s the Australians themselves. ^ @manandasuitcase
A pair of avid collectors passionate about the decorative arts and furniture run Chee Soon & Fitzgerald. Get co-owner Brian talking about his Limerick heritage. Chee Soon & Fitzgerald, 173 Regent Street, Redfern; www.cheesoonfitzgerald.com
FOR LIGHT REFRESHMENT …. Try the black sesame gelato from Ciccone and Sons Gelateria. Their actual surnames are Megahey and O’Brien – they picked Ciccone as a tribute to Madonna. Ciccone & Sons, 195 Regent Street, Redfern
MELBOURNE FOR UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE … Hotel Lindrum is a boutique beauty with a class-act concierge and an excellent breakfast. The neighbourhood is crammed with great places to eat and drink. Hotel Lindrum, 26 Flinders Street, Melbourne; www.hotellindrum.com.au
FOR AN EXCUSE TO DRESS UP … Cumulus Inc, and the upstairs wine bar, Cumulus Up, are part of Melbourne culinary darling Andrew McConnell’s food empire. Cumulus Up comes into its own at night time. Cumulus Inc, 45 Flinders Lane, Melbourne; www.cumulusinc.com.au
FOR LOCAL FLAVOUR … Mooch around the halls of the deli section at Queen Victoria Market and put together a perfect picnic with meats, cheeses, cold cuts, great breads and spreads. Queen Victoria Market, 513 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne; www.qvm.com.au
FOR STYLISH SOUVENIRS … Third Drawer Down is a cracking shop full of unique homewares, gifts and artist collaborations. With a distinct curated voice, this is the archetypal modern Australian design store – smart, sassy and stylish. Third Drawer Down, 93 George Street, Fitzroy; www.thirddrawerdown.com
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | May 2016 | 39
BUSINESS WISDOM WISDOM BUSINESS DID ANYTHING IN YOUR EARLY LIFE EXPERIENCE OR FAMILY BACKGROUND INFLUENCE YOUR JOURNEY TO YOUR CURRENT ROLE? My father was a hospital architect and throughout my childhood my parents encouraged me to be focused and driven. I moved into a management pathway early on in my career and have always been supported by my husband and family throughout this journey
AN ACCOMPLISHMENT YOU ARE PROUD OF? Professionally, I am proud of being able to use the training and skills I developed as a nurse to build a diverse and interesting career path. In the last couple of years, as I transitioned from nursing management to general and business management roles, I have still frequently referenced my clinical experience. It has been an exciting and diverse learning curve.
HOW DO YOU APPROACH DIFFICULT SITUATIONS? Head on. I will always analyse the events that led to the situation and then look to finding a solution. If in doubt I will sleep on it, and discuss with a colleague to get an objective view.
WHICH IS THE MOST USEFUL WAY TO ENGAGE CLIENTS OR SUPPLIERS? Face-to-face meetings are preferable. People like to meet the human face behind healthcare – it helps to reassure them that they are clinically focused and have empathy, kindness and compassion. The human touch and personal involvement is very important in delivering care.
FROM THE DESK OF ...
Sarah McMickan
PHOTOGRAPHED BY NEIL HURLEY
CEO, BEECHFIELD CARE GROUP
THE CV After qualifying as a nurse, Sarah McMickan worked in various roles across the public, private and voluntary sectors with older persons, in acute care and in maternity services. She has held many nursing and general management roles to date, holds an MsC in Healthcare Management from RCSI and is an Associate Professor, School of Nursing and Midwifery, Trinity College, Dublin. She has been CEO at Beechfield Care Group for six months.
DESCRIBE YOUR ROLE: I am responsible for the running of Beechfield Care Group which employs almost 300 staff and comprises two companies: Beechfield Nursing Home Group and Beechfield Private Homecare. We offer a complete care pathway for our clients, from a couple of hours of companionship to full-time home or residential care in one of our three Dublin facilities.
WHAT KEEPS YOU AWAKE AT NIGHT? I’m fortunate that I generally sleep very well. If I find something is weighing heavily on my mind, I write it down and approach it the following morning when I’m not so reactive.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE YOU TO GET READY IN THE MORNING? Usually it takes me about 45 minutes, though I can be quicker when required.
WHAT IS ONE CHARACTERISTIC A BUSINESS LEADER SHOULD POSSESS? Bravery. You have to believe in yourself, your product and your team. It’s important to try and if you fail – go back and try again. As you develop in your role, you get more confident in this area.
THREE PIECES OF ADVICE YOU MIGHT GIVE TO WOMEN WHO ASPIRE TO BE IN LEADERSHIP ROLES? Go for it and enjoy the challenge. Be honest, remain true to yourself and never be afraid to positively reinforce those around you. Always reflect – no one is perfect, but self-awareness is essential. Having a coach, someone who will challenge and support you, is helpful. ^
YOUR COMPANY’S BUSINESS PRIORITIES FOR 2016? We want to continue to deliver the highest standard of care to our residents, clients and their families.
HIGHLIGHTS AND CHALLENGES DURING YOUR TENURE? When you’re providing care, you are constantly engaging with the service user. Working with my experienced management team we develop our services further with innovative ideas. With our residents and their families’ input, we are always striving to improve our services.
MY WORKING LIFE:
THE WAY I DO BUSINESS 1. STRONG POINTS I am determined, resilient, energetic and action- and solution-focused. 2. WEAKNESSES Sometimes I’m so action-focused that I have to remind myself to consider the impact this has on my team.
3. LOOKING THE BUSINESS I prefer a simple, well-cut dress to a suit. I think that clothes should feel like a second skin. Heels are an absolute essential for me. 4.
WORK/LIFE BALANCE It’s important to have family
time with my husband and two adult sons. I enjoy horseriding, walking and meals out with friends. 5.
PLANNING FOR THE FUTURE I’ve always
contributed to a pension. I try to live in the present and not get too bogged down with what’s going to happen down the line.
40 | May 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
FOOD
RAISING THE STEAKS Responsible meat consumption means quality over quantity. Befriend your local butcher, says TRISH DESEINE
YOUNG BUCK BEURRE BLEU FOR 4 (3 minutes preparation; 1 hour chilling) 125g butter at room temperature • 125g Young Buck blue cheese (or another good quality ripe blue) • 1 tsp mild mustard • Black pepper 1. Put all the ingredients in a mini-mixer and blitz until smooth. 2. Put the butter onto a sheet of cling film, gather up the sides and roll into a cylinder. Refrigerate until firm. Slice into rounds and pop onto the hot steak as it is resting and/or as you serve it.
BEURRE MAÎTRE D’HÔTEL FOR 4 (3 minutes preparation; 1 hour chilling) 125g butter at room temperature • 1 small shallot, finely chopped • 1 medium garlic clove, finely chopped • 3 tbsp lemon juice • ½ tsp Dijon mustard • 1 tbsp finely chopped flat leaf parsley 1. Put all the ingredients in a mini-mixer and blitz until smooth. 2. Put the butter onto a sheet of cling film, gather up the sides and roll the butter into a cylinder. Refrigerate for an hour or so, until it is firm. Slice into rounds and pop onto the hot steak as it is resting and/or as you serve it.
MY GREEN SAUCE Lively and vibrant, I love this little sauce with steak, liver and cold meats.
42 | May 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
in cream and mushrooms, or duck breasts with cherries or a chicken curry during the week, and then a magnificent meaty feast of two chickens (to satisfy four requests for a leg and generate leftovers for week nights), a (large) shoulder of lamb or this dish, and sometimes, as a big treat, little slivers of fried foie gras. Hanger steak, onglet in French, is a tender, juicy cut, quick and forgiving to cook. It’s classified as offal in France, and as we were lucky enough to have a specialised offal butcher and stand in our market, I could choose beef or veal hanger that the butcher would trim and butterfly for me. With a large green salad to start (serving green veg first when everyone is hungriest is the best way to up consumption!) and olive oil and garlic mash alongside the steak and marrow bones, this was a feast worthy of the animal who had provided it, and made even better by the week long anticipation of a joyous family meal. THINGS TO GO WITH STEAK I’m not joining the ranks of the “How to Cook the Perfect Steak” brigade and adding yet another tutorial here. I do not feel qualified, yet … So much of successful steak cooking – and serving! – depends on the kit you possess, precise timings, how your kitchen and dining table is set up and how you manage to navigate the tricky coordination of resting and keeping the meat warm while ensuring everything that is coming alongside is piping hot. Deceptively simple, it is certainly not the most relaxing of dishes to serve to first time guests. Recently, to my eternal regret, in a kitchen and (freezing) dining room that were not my own, I did not do justice to a magnificent, exquisite Glenarm Shorthorn côte de boeuf aged 46 days in a Himalayan salt chamber. Next time, I’ll get it right, but never shall I forget the taste of what was left over from that superlative meat, sliced wafer thin and @TrishDeseine eaten cold the next day. ^
1. Put all the ingredients into a mini-mixer and blitz until quite smooth but still a little chunky. Stir through the capers and loosen up the sauce with a little more olive oil if you like. Season with fleur de sel and pepper.
GRATIN DAUPHINOIS Creamy, delicately garlicky, easy to serve – perfect with juicy, smoky steak. FOR 4/6 (10 minutes preparation; 50 minutes cooking) 1 kg waxy potatoes, peeled and sliced to about ½cm thickness • 300ml single cream • 300ml milk • 1 clove garlic, peeled, cut in half • 50g butter • Fresh nutmeg • Salt and pepper • About 50g grated cheddar, gruyère or parmesan 1. Bring the cream and milk to the boil. Season lightly with salt and pepper, add the grated nutmeg and simmer the potato slices for 10 minutes or so. They should be slightly softened but still hold their shape. 2. Pre heat the oven to 180˚C. Rub the insides of the gratin dish with the halved garlic and butter the dish. 3. Remove the potato slices with a slotted spoon and arrange them flat and overlapping in the gratin dish. Pour the hot cream and milk over them, sprinkle with the cheese and cook for around 35/40 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and the top of the gratin is golden and bubbling.
PHOTOGRAPH BY DEIRDRE ROONEY
P
lease do not consider this carnivore’s feast of a photograph an encouragement to eat more meat. It is, in fact, the opposite: not a call to give up completely, but to simply eat less, and better. My normal, hedonistic, eat-what-you-love service will resume soon, but for now there is one urgent change we all need to make in our lives: we need to eat less meat. And Ireland needs to produce less meat and dairy. No matter how efficient we tell ourselves our domestic industries are, increasing our production means we will not pull our full weight in efforts to reduce global warming. We see the effects of climate change before our eyes, we know that plant-based diets are cheaper and better health options for us. It’s time to make a real change. This does not mean taking on celebrity-dictated quackery, cutting out entire food groups and treating others like medicine, stripped to their bare, undelicious compounds, while spiralising the bejaysus out of every vegetable that enters our kitchens. It just means being more conscious, more responsible – more grown-up? Bringing a good butcher into your life is the first step. I mean a real life butcher, in his shop or at least behind the counter of one of the smaller, family run supermarkets thankfully still alive and well around Ireland. Making the detour, asking questions, starting a conversation and then a relationship, means that more often than not you will come away with the right cut, the right amount and some good advice on how to cook it. Cutting back on meat-eating was a lifestyle shift I made some time ago in France, despite huge temptation from the markets and butchers shops on my doorstep. Added to environmental issues, with the amount of food my four gigantic teenage children consumed it would have been impossible to give them meat every day without breaking the bank. Usually, we would have it only twice a week – something quick and easy like veal
FOR 4 (3 minutes preparation) Zest and juice of 1 lime • 1 large garlic clove • Handful of flatleaf parsley • Handful of basil leaves • 2 tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp capers • Fleur de sel, pepper
WINE
PS I LOVE YOU, AUSTRIAN WINE MARY DOWEY is smitten and she wants the world to know it
D
ear Austrian Wine, You’ve pursued me for an eternity and I’ve mostly kept you at arm’s length, thinking you decent rather than dashing. But I think it only fair to write and let you know that your latest visit to Dublin has left me tingling with excitement. Why such late-blossoming romance when we’ve known each other so long? I hope you’ll take it as a compliment rather than a patronising comment if I say you’ve changed for the better. Decades ago, when you used to turn up in Dublin every single year, your routine rapidly became boring. (As it does with all the big annual wine trade shows. I wish other countries who attempt the same courtship ritual would take the hint and play harder to get.) Apart from going on endlessly about Grüner Veltliner, your pet grape variety, you didn’t have a huge amount to say for yourself. Riesling varied the conversation occasionally and you gave me some tempting sweet wines to try: mostly delicious but – rather like a gift of risqué underwear – not exactly for everyday enjoyment. You tried to impress me with over-familiar things like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, and the few reds you pulled out of your back pocket seemed lacklustre. You probably weren’t mad about me either. I go around with my nose in the air (when not in a glass) and am notoriously difficult to please. So it’s probably just as well that we had a long break from each other. I missed your last visit to Ireland in 2010 and don’t remember feeling particularly grief-stricken. But over the past while I’ve kept a quiet
eye on what you’ve been up to, and even before you turned up again this spring my feelings towards you were beginning to soften. Then we met in the Morrison Hotel – and gosh, it was good to see you. You seemed so suave, so exuberant! One delicious glass after the other … I could hardly bear to leave. You still wear a lot of white and it suits you, especially as you’re more careful about quality these days. A lot of those Grüners and Rieslings are really smart, and the occasional white accessory like a Weissburgunder or a wacky Rotgipfler adds a nice touch of exoticism. But I notice you’re much keener on red than before and I can’t believe how distinctive it makes you. Other guys look good in Pinot Noir but nobody can rival the flair you’ve developed for Blaufränkisch, St Laurent and Zweigelt. Sorry to gush and to seem superficial – there are so many things I don’t know about you yet. But it’ll be exciting to spend more time together. I hope we can do that soon. Tschüss, Mary
Ireland’s
Most L ved
Wine
When a nation falls in love with the smooth textures, bold flavours and pure balance of Santa Rita Estates wines, you just know that’s a love worth raising a glass to.
MY TOP 10 AUSTRIAN PRODUCERS (SO FAR) u BIRGIT EICHINGER u DIWALD u HIRSCH u JOHANNESHOF REINISCH u JURTSCHITSCH u KRACHER u LOIMER u OTT u MUHR-VAN DER NIEPOORT u SCHLOSS GOBELSBURG
3 to TRY SCHLOSS GOBELSBURG GRÜNER VELTLINER STEINSETZ, KAMPTAL RESERVE 2014. Austria’s trademark white, Grüner Veltliner, at its most stylish. Alcohol 13%. From Mitchell & Son, IFSC and Glasthule, Co Dublin; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4; Redmonds, Dublin 6; Sweeneys, Dublin 11, about d26.
DIWALD ZWEIGELT GROSSRIEDERTHALER LÖSS, WAGRAM 2014. From a go-ahead organic estate, this juicy, moreish red is perfect for al fresco summer drinking. Alcohol 12.5%. From Good Food Store, Dublin 2; Olive Branch, Clonakilty, Co Cork; Taste, Castletownbere, Co Cork; The Grainey, Scarriff, Co Clare, about d16.
MUHR-VAN DER NIEPOORT SAMT UND SEIDE, CARNUNTUM 2013. The name, meaning velvet and silk, is spot-on for this Blaufränkisch-based beauty. Alcohol 13%. From Gibneys, Malahide, Co Dublin; Corkscrew, Dublin 2; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, Co Dublin; Mortons, Galway, about d23.
PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY
160881_S'Rita Most Loved_Gloss HP.indd 1
Source: Nielsen ROI Scantrack data 27th Dec 2015
18/04/2016 17:45
TRAVEL
THIS WONDERFUL LITTLE PLACE
THE GLOSS Wine Dinner Series at
. . . P UGLIA , ITALY
Elisabeth Luard writes a cookery column in The Oldie magazine. Her fourth memoir-withrecipes, Squirrel Pie and Other Stories, is out now
A
good friend of mine has a little place in Puglia, near the hilltop town of Ostuni in the heel of Italy’s boot. This was the last outpost of the Appian Way, which once joined the southern provinces to Rome. The local sophisticates know a good thing when they find it, and like to keep it to themselves, so tourism in the region is mostly from within Italy. I have spent some time there and occasionally take a small group of readers of my cookery column on a food and wine holiday to the area, with the task of interpreting – I wouldn’t go so far as to instruct on such a delicate subject – the cooking of Puglia. In this part of Italy home cooking is the standard by which excellence is judged, a culinary tradition maintained through the absolute conviction that no one cooks like your mamma or your grandmamma cooks – and if anyone says otherwise, they’re wrong. La cucina della nonna is what you eat here. On Saturdays we go to the market, where we inspect the produce and shop
Above: Miramare da Michele. This picture: the restaurant’s perch in the Adriatic Sea.
for what we’ll cook next day in class. Diverse vegetables, remarkable for their quality. A little meat – occasionally rabbit, some horsemeat, maybe chicken. Burrata, the hollow bubble of mozzarella filled with a glorious dollop of creamy curds. Pasta and bread, the staple foods of the region, made with hard durum wheatflour that, made into a dough, tastes of sunshine. And fish – the coastal-dwellers here eat plenty of fish and they eat it raw, sashimi-style. Some of the braver members of the group will enjoy the raw fish at Miramare da Michele, a very ordinary-looking place surrounded by the fishing boats of the little harbour of Torre Santa Sabina. Da Michele is long and narrow, not at all grand, jerry-built, where you go for the day’s freshest catch, the crudo. They give you whatever is best that day, served raw and as simply as possible, with nothing except the odd wedge of lemon. Depending on the catch you’ll get shrimp, prawns, squid, octopus, mussels, clams, oysters, whelks, urchins, sea bream – you’ll see the fishermen come off the boats chewing raw squid, it’s so fresh and sweet. I don’t want to alarm those who aren’t able for it, so they can have the frittura di pesce, or the pasta, which usually uses fish from yesterday or the day before – nothing wrong with that, it’s a sensible, practical way to cook. You can poke your nose into the kitchen and ask the nonnas for something in particular, and you’ll either get a lecture on what’s in season or you’ll be told to hang on for 20 minutes until the boat comes in. The queues at weekends of locals coming to eat whatever’s fresh and available are an object lesson in why we should all try to eat that way. ^ ÓRLA DUKES @OrlaDukes Miramare da Michele, Via Adige, 72012 Torre Santa Sabina, Brindisi, Italy; www.miramaredamichele.it. Elisabeth Luard appears at this year’s Kerrygold Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food & Wine from May 20-22.
44 | May 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
THE ESSENCE OF SUMMER A WINE DINNER TO CELEBRATE THIS SEASON’S MOST EXQUISITE FLAVOURS ON MAY 25 On Wednesday May 25, wine editor MARY DOWEY and the gifted chefs of The Cellar Restaurant at the Merrion Hotel invite you to salute bright days and long evenings with our wine dinner THE ESSENCE OF SUMMER. Come and discover a line-up of exciting wines encapsulating irresistible freshness and zest. These will be matched with deliciously light, vibrant dishes, each working a particular magic with this season’s most alluring flavours. You’ll go home with all the inspiration you need to stage your own perfect summer dinner party. THE GLOSS Wine Dinner Series at THE MERRION is a programme of ambitious, finely tuned and elegant gastronomic evenings. Some of our guests find our wine dinners a perfect way to entertain business associates or friends while others welcome them as a special treat for a special person - or for themselves. As tickets usually sell quickly, please book your place for our wine dinner The Essence of Summer on May 25 right away.
Glamorous pre-dinner drink 7.30pm Dinner at 8pm Six courses with matching wines: tickets d90 each Wines can be ordered at special prices Gift vouchers available – a superb present for any wine lover TO BOOK, please call 01 275 5130
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Zoë Jellicoe photographed at the National Print Museum, Beggar’s Bush Barracks, Haddington Road, Dublin 4. Silver button-through jumpsuit, ¤49.99, H&M. Opposite: Anthracite Judith off-the-shoulder coated cotton-poplin top; crêpe shorts; both Rick Owens at Havana, Donnybrook, Dublin 4. Make-up by Anna O’Callaghan.
GUTS Writer, editor and columnist Zoë Jellicoe has crowdfunded a book By day I’m an editor at Liberties Press, a small publishing company, and I also write a weekly arts and culture column in the Dublin Inquirer. It’s a unique independent newspaper which has just bravely moved to print when everyone else is going the other way. It’s really inspiring working alongside so much determination and originality. My mother was an editor-at-large at Wallpaper* for twelve years and our house was always full of books. Both my parents love to travel: I was born in London and we lived in the States, Rome and Switzerland until I moved to Dublin to go to Trinity. I’ve been here for ten years, the longest I’ve ever lived anywhere – it’s the city I belong in. The creative community here is very small but it means that if you work really hard you can make it in your industry. I got into video games when I started reviewing them about seven years ago. There’s a huge gaming scene in Dublin that I wasn’t aware of and it’s been very welcoming. Critical Hits, the book I’ve just crowdfunded, will be a collection of the most vibrant voices within the indie gaming community, published by Liberties Press, and available in September. When you’re an editor it can be hard to read for pleasure because you’re critiquing everything. I have been attending a writer’s group and I do at least 20 minutes of flash fiction a day. I’m so used to giving feedback in my job that I should be better at receiving it, but I still have a lot to learn. So many people my age are already on double book deals, but you need to be alone a lot to write novels and I’m not very good at solitude. I’m constantly terrified that projects won’t work out, but keeping something going is often more of a challenge than bringing an idea to fruition. The main thing that drives me is the desire to be challenged intellectually. Creative fulfillment is more difficult to achieve, but I’m working on it. zoejellicoe.squarespace.com
This Glossy Life GRIT Film producer Anna O’Malley is carving out a niche in the industry My grandmother Mary O’Malley founded The Lyric Theatre in Belfast during The Troubles. They had bomb scares and threats to the family home but she persevered. Granny was a formidable force – she instilled in me the belief that anything is possible After I completed my Masters, I worked in television for a few years producing current affairs programming, but I really wanted to work on feature films. I contacted about 100 companies trying to get anyone to meet with me. Finally someone called me back. After four years as a freelance production manager I realised that the trajectory of my career was not what I wanted it to be. I knew that to become a producer I needed to take some time off to develop my own projects and say no to some job offers. It was a risk but it paid off. I’m currently working on My Mother and Other Stories, a BBC One drama set in Northern Ireland during World War II. Working in Belfast reminds me of what my grandmother achieved and how relentless she was. She left a tough legacy to follow. Last year I met Irish writer/director Alexandra McGuinness in Los Angeles. She told me about a film called The Highway Is For Gamblers and I knew we had to make it together. It’s is in pre-production now and we have Bonnie Wright (Harry Potter), Nikki Reid (Twilight) and the Irish actress Antonia Campbell-Hughes already signed up. Room and Brooklyn are such a testament to the writing and storytelling talent we have in this country. Their success has put us on the map. www.twfilms.ie
Turning an innate skill into a viable occupation takes guts, graft, grit and grace. For these single-minded ones to watch, it’s as simple as that, writes SARAH BREEN Photographed by DOREEN KILFEATHER
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | May 2016 | 47
THIS GLOSSY LIFE
GRAFT Furniture designer Simon Doyle was named one to watch by The New York Times I think about my work constantly. If I’m excited about something, it consumes me and I spend my evenings and weekends working on personal projects. I exhibited at Maison & Objet in Paris in January and was part of the Design Ireland showcase at Heal’s London in March, after which The New York Times named me as an Irish designer to know. All exposure is good exposure. As well as the technicalities, the creativity of designing and making furniture appeals to me. I look at it as a problem you have to solve, and the methods are very satisfying. I worked with instrument maker Frank Tate for nine months when I was just starting out. The raw material might be the same, but the construction is more precise when you’re making guitars and mandolins. I took a lot of what I learned from Frank with me when I went out on my own. Starting my workshop was a big decision but I felt it was the only option for me. I knew it would be difficult but I didn’t realise just how much so. On one hand, you’re trying to develop your work, but of course you have to generate income too. It takes a while to get the balance right and I don’t know if I would necessarily recommend it. Then again, I wouldn’t like to do anything else. The Swedish furniture designer Åke Axelsson is someone I look up to. He’s still working at 80-something years old. I can see myself doing that – it’s what happens when you’re passionate about what you do. www.simon-doyle.com
GRACE Irish/Sierra Leoneon singer Loah is releasing her debut EP this summer
PHOTOGRAPHED BY EVE NORTH
When I perform everything goes still. I forget the world and feel very focused on what I’m sharing. That’s the thing about music – it draws everyone in. When you study it, you’re studying yourself too, especially when it becomes emotionally challenging. You have to find a resilience within. You’re the source – if you’re buckling, the whole thing is buckling. Sometimes it can feel like life or death. My parents always urged me to express myself musically. I got into jazz at college, which opened up the worlds of funk and soul music. Talent is all well and good but it’s just potential. You have to support it with effort and practice. The more you learn about music, the more you want to know. It’s a feedback loop and I’m now developing a deeper interest in the music of my father’s side of the family – my African roots. I try to do something creative first thing in the morning to relax that side of my brain. Then it’s easier to answer emails and approach the business side of things, because that’s what supports my creativity. If I didn’t look after my management, where would I find my audience? You need to believe in yourself to make it in this industry. Glen Hansard embodies that; he sings with the same beauty and commitment at a private party as he does in a sold out venue. It’s overpoweringly gorgeous and it wins you over. ^ www.ensemble.ie/loah
T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | May 2016 | 49