Autumn/Winter 2013 Trend Report & Brand Application for George at Asda

AUTUMN/WINTER 2013 TREND REPORT GEORGE TREND APPLICATION emily hindmarch kathleen wilkinson SIYAN ZHOU

‘The northern quarter of our planet’s latitudes will undergo tremendous transformation over the course of this century, making them a place of increased human activity, higher strategic value and greater economic importance than today’

2013 has heralded a new social awareness with consumers looking for ecologically sustainable brands and looking at other cultures for inspiration for sustainable lifestyles and communism for inspiration away from the capitalist society which has floundered in the recession.

The growing economic strength and lifestyle developments in these northern countries; Canada, Iceland, Greenland (Denmark), Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia, is evident in the Scandinavian and Eastern European influences that have filtered through this season’s trends.

At TRENDI we have identified three main themes and influencers across twelve trends encompassing; Creative Direction, Visual Merchandising, Print and Graphics and Menswear.

New North: The World in 2050, Laurence Smith

Ever since Pantone announced the 2013 colour of the year as PANTONE 17-5641 Emerald, a colour abundant in nature as well as opulent jewellike richness, it was clear that this year will bring with it a sense of rejuvination and clarity. WGSN state that ‘What defines 2013 from 2012 will be this mood of decisions being made about how to evolve and move forward, rather than the exploring and experimenting we will see over the next 12 months.’

2

CONTENTS

GEORGE

GREAT OUTDOORS

EASTERN HYBRIDS

CREATIVE COMBUSTION

celebrating the natural wonders & unexplored terrains

a return to Eastern European heritage in a time of austerity

a new sense of expressive freedom with surrealist accents

application of trends for Autumn/Winter 2013

TREND INSPIRATION 4-5

TREND INSPIRATION 14-15

TREND INSPIRATION 24-25

BRAND APPLICATION 34-35

NOMADIC TERRAIN CREATIVE DIRECTION 6-7

SOVIET LEGACY CREATIVE DIRECTION 16-17

FACELESS FREAKS CREATIVE DIRECTION 26-27

‘HOOK’ & ‘BANKER’ PIECES MENSWEAR 36-37

RUSTIC MINIMALISM VISUAL MERCHANDISING 8-9

REGAL OPULENCE VISUAL MERCHANDISING 18-19

CARTOON STYLE GRAPHICS VISUAL MERCHANDISING 28-29

ANIMAL HIDE UPDATE PRINT & GRAPHICS 10-11

POLISHED FOLK PRINT & GRAPHICS 20-21

ABSTRACT INKS PRINT & GRAPHICS 30-31

NOUVEAU EXPLORER MENSWEAR 12-13

CONTEMPORARY GENTLEMAN MENSWEAR 22-23

SINISTER PORTRAITS MENSWEAR 32-33

3

GREAT OUTDOORS

celebrating the natural wonders AND unexplored terrains Inspired by a pursuit of new terrains and a new zest for the outdoors, Nordic and specifically Scandinavian influences are rife throughout this trend.

A colour palette constructed with a base of grey tones is complimented by earthy greens and rich forest hues. Khaki and madder carmine red will be key colours for

4

Autumn/Winter 2013, however the principal colour will be oranges specifically burnt hues and bright Buddhist orange.

‘Sprout’ Pencils by Democratech

Scott and Scott Architects Alpine Cabin

‘Rivers of Ice’ by David Breashears

Living Ecological Alpine Pods by LEAPfactory

‘Objets Nomades’ for Louis Vuitton

Plantable Coasters by Molson Canadian

With the NORCs’ low crime rates, ecological sustainability and clean air they are becoming desirable destinations for relocation and are set to become economic powerhouses. Architecture is minimal and integrated in nature while products such as ‘Objets Nomades’ for Louis Vuitton reflect a minimal aesthetic designed with the new breed of modern travellers in mind. The exclusivity of travel is a dying trend and consumers are willingly swapping luxury in exchange for new enriching experiences, there has been a shift in consumer attitude with people looking to get the maximum out of life and to actively reconnect with nature and the elements as a counter-measure to out increasingly interior and technology-driven lives. With exhibitions such as ‘Rivers of Ice’ highlighting the effects of climate change and disappearing climates and products that create environmentally beneficial life out of a consumer product such as ‘Sprout’ pencils by Democratech and Plantable Coasters by Molson Canadian. The Scandi fashion exhibition at Somerset House demonstrates the new affection towards Scandinavian design, showcasing emerging talent and young designers from Sweden, Norway and Denmark.

5

nomadic terrain CREATIVE DIRECTION An overall theme that is going to be key to Autumn/Winter 2013 is the nomadic explorer conquering new terrains.

Specific focus is on the isolation of disappearing environments such as snowcaps and glaciers, and is inspired by the colours of nature.

‘Man’s origin is nomadic. At first our species was moving from one place to the other, gathering food and hunting, long before settling down permanently to start farming and setting up rural communities. Today trends seem to be drifitng into nomadism again.’

- Trend Union

Ed Viesturs for Rolex 2012

Iain Percy for Dunhill 2012

6

Fuelled by the positive role models that came out of London 2012, celebrity culture is diminishing and giving way to athletes and explorers who represent effort and determination becoming the faces of brands’ campaigns; climber Ed Viesturs for Rolex and expedition leader Sir Ranulph Fiennes and sailor Iain Percy for Dunhill.

Benjamin Alexander Huseby for VMAN 2009 Mario Sorrenti for BOSS Black AW12 Yohji Yamamoto, Autumn/Winter 2013

A key theme for this season is the minimalist traveller, visually this is best reflected through simple layouts which really focus on the beauty of the natural environments such as snowcapped mountains and the elements.

This minimal approach has been an emerging graphic trend in 2013 and reflects Scandinavian design. Also, there is an increase in the popularity of male models with facial hair reflecting the Nordic aesthetic and this will be a leading update for this creative direction trend.

SNOW-CAPPED MOUNTAINS, NOMADIC FREEDOM, ISOLATION, SCENIC, LAYERS, EARTH TONES, BLUE HUES, NORDIC, BEARDED MEN, TRAVELLING David Sims for Alexander McQueen AW12

Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton AW13

7

rustic minimalism VISUAL MERCHANDISING Inspired by the minimalist traveller and nomadic themes, store design is stripped-back with natural pale wood tones and dark brown animal skins complimented by a white base.

The Atelier Solarshop in Antwerp, Belgium

The Atelier Solarshop in Antwerp, Belgium

Just Junkies at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

EXPOSED WOOD GRAINS, RUSTIC, BARE, WHITE V. DARK, WARM TEXTILES, STARK WOOD FITTINGS, NATURAL ANIMAL HIDES, NEW MODERN TRAVELLER, WOODEN LODGE, ROUGH LUXE WITH A NORDIC TWIST, DISTRESSED LEATHERS, ORGANISED LAYOUT OF PRODUCT NOT VINTAGE-ESQUE, BARE LIGHT FIXTURES, EXPOSED LIGHT BULBS, REMINISCENT OF MINIMALIST HOME INTERIOR DESIGN

Birkenstock at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

8

Examples of ‘Rustic Minimalism’ can already be seen at tradeshows and in independent stores. This is appearing to be a macro trend as the return to nature and the outdoors remains a prominent lifestyle trend, resulting in a lot of brands adopting this aesthetic especially in Winter seasons.

Napapijri at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin Blutsgeschwister at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin NZA at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

Napapijri at Bread and Butter 2013, Berlin

Yerse at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

Levis at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

Brands such as Napapijri and Element embraced the minimal store layout and explorer inspired paraphernalia at Bread and Butter and Bright trade shows in Berlin. Display units are made up of wooden boards and logs with exposed wood grains, and like Levis’ product displays, garments and accessories are extremely organised in colour themes and spacing.

Element at Bright AW13, Berlin

9

animal hide update PRINT AND GRAPHIC Continuing the modern update to the explorer, natural safari stripes seen emerging in Spring/Summer 2013 and most other aminal skins are given a graphic tonal twist in one of the most versatile and commercial trends of the season.

Louis Vuitton, Autumn/Winter 2013

Angelo Marani, Autumn/Winter 2013

Paola Frani, Autumn/Winter 2013

Tom Ford, Autumn/Winter 2013

Sister by SIbling, Autumn/Winter 2013

DIRTY TRACK

10

MISTED MUSK

A Détacher, Autumn/Winter 2013

Christopher Kane, Autumn/Winter 2013

Animal prints were unmissable on the Autumn/Winter 2013 catwalks, featured heavily in both menswear and womenswear ready-to-wear catwalk collections. Although these prints, in particular leopard prints are already visible on the high street, this season it’s the variety of animal hides that is the key to keeping this trend current.

To update the classic leopard to a more sophisticated print, use a tonal colour palatte as seen at Christopher Kane, Louis Vuitton and Paola Frani, Also this print and graphic trend can be very tactile with animal prints on knits and fur, or like at A Détacher textural photographic fur prints are a more cost effective and modern approach to the natural hides.

DKNY, Autumn/Winter 2013

Burberry Prorsum, Autumn/Winter 2013

Nasir Mazhar at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin Hummel at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

Mutta at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

Fred Perry at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

Paul Smith, Autumn/Winter 2013

At Bread and Butter and Bright in Berlin, animal prints were featured on nearly every type of garment, from jackets, knitwear and t-shirts to trousers and footwear. Graphic prints on knitwear are not usually seen but this season printed knits will be a key garment.

As seen at Nasir Mazhar, Konkurs and Mutta and across Autumn/Winter 2013 catwalk shows from the likes of DKNY and Tom Ford, leopard spots in an authentic palette are a key print this season. Note the softer brush strokes in the print, a move away from the realistic pattern to create an overall more graphic and abstract print. However, sophisticated tonal palettes, seen at Fred Perry, and simplified colour pops are also an on-trend way to approach these prints.

Oli Rubi, Pure London AW13

Muveil, Autumn/Winter 2013

Konkurs at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

With the excess of animal prints this season negotiating the thin line between good taste and bad taste can be challenging. An easy on-trend way to incorporate these prints and graphicsisthroughaccessories,mainly bags and shoes for both menswear and womenswear. Especially for menswear accessories animal hide, specifically leopard prints, are simple, commercial update to accessories particularly for men who wouldn’t usually consider wearing animal prints.

SOFTENED EDGE LEOPARD AND CHEETAH SPOTS, GEOMETRIC GIRAFFE SHAPES, INKY COW HIDE BLOTS, ALL-OVER PYTHON PATTERNS, TACTILE FURS 11

PARKA JACKETS, FUR LINING, MODERN FABRICS, TAILORING, COMBINE MODERN AND TRADITIONAL TECHNOLOGY, CABLE EMBROIDERY, PADDING AND QUILTING, SKI-INSPIRED, FLECKED KNITS, SUBTLE FAIR ISLE PRINTS

nouveau explorer MENSWEAR The idea of exploration is a key inspiration for menswear this season.

Created in a dark colour palette filled with earthy browns and khaki next to slate greys and navy blues, the bold accents of Buddhist orange and scarlet red create a striking contrast.

Saint Laurent, Autumn/Winter 2013

Topman Design, Autumn/Winter 2013

Louis Vuitton, Autumn/Winter 2013

On the Autumn/Winter 2013 catwalks the outdoor influence is clear. For the nouveau explorer there is a juxtaposition between casual outer garments such as parka jackets and quilted gilets, against refined tailored trousers and suit jackets. This modern traveller aesthetic of practical outdoor wear with a smart twist is epitomised

by Louis Vuitton, Carven and Topman Design who all took inspiration from the outdoors and the gentleman explorer. A mixture of natural wool and knitted textiles with new outdoor performance fabrics keeps this trend modern and wearable.

12

Louis Vuitton, Autumn/Winter 2013

Irie Daily at Bright AW13

Carven, Autumn/Winter 2013

Carven, Autumn/Winter 2013

DjINN’s, Bread and Butter AW13

DjINN’s, Bread and Butter AW13

KEY DETAILS:

TRAVELLING BAGS: As expected with a travel-inspired trend, bags are a key accessory with large leather holdall style bags appearing across multiple catwalk collections and rucksacks in heavyduty materials. Attention to detail is essential for the rucksacks with Louis Vuitton attaching leather straps to carry a sleeping bag and an array of utilitarian-style pockets displayed at Topman Design where they installed specific pockets for a hip flask, a compass and an iPad - the ultimate tool-kit for the nouveau modern explorer.

CAMP POCKETS:

Calvin Klein Collection, Autumn/Winter 2013

A key detail especially on jackets but also trousers, are square camp pockets on the outside of the garment. These can be in contrasting fabrics as seen at Calvin Klein Collection and Irie Daily at Bright Berlin or add a more subtle outdoor influence by blending into the jacket as seen at Louis Vuitton, however they are defined by the seaming which gives the pockets definition.

PERFORMANCE HARDWARE: The detailing of explorer-inspired fastenings such as wooden toggles, ropes, carabiners and side-release buckles integral for staples this season. The juxtaposition of these heavy-duty details with performance fabrics and smart tailoring is key.

Louis Vuitton, Autumn/Winter 2013

Prada, Autumn/Winter 2013

Calvin Klein Collection, Autumn/Winter 2013

Element at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

House of Montague at Bread and Butter AW13

Tillmann Lauterbach, Autumn/Winter 2013 Bottega Veneta, Autumn/Winter 2013 Dior Homme, Autumn/Winter 2013

Louis Vuitton, Autumn/Winter 2013

Dale of Norway Inc. at Capsule AW13

PRACTICAL FOOTWEAR: As seen across the catwalks sportinspired footwear is back specifically robust outdoor boots. Formal footwear is given an update with chunky sole detailing and casual shoes have a Scandinavian feel with wooden toggle fastenings and simple stitching.

13

EASTERN HYBRIDS With a high degree of political and economic stability in the wake of the recent economic downturn, businesses and consumers alike are taking an interest in Eastern European countries, in particular Poland, Russia and Ukraine, and also trend-setting cities; Berlin, Warsaw and Prague.

This has inspired a colour palette inspired by Eastern European design and Russian folklore with fresh greens mixed with rich hues of plum and teal, accented by rose pink and striking sky blue.

Saint Basil’s Cathedral, Moscow

14

A RETURN TO EASTERN EUROPEAN HERITAGE IN A TIME OF AUSTERITY

Mysia 3 Concept Mall, Warsaw

Winter Olympics to be held in Russia 2014

Russian Tsars inspire an opulent lifestyle aesthetic

With the West no longer a template for economic success, Eastern Europe and Russia are poised to become significant cultural leaders and influencers. Willing to combine traditional Eastern patterns with contemporary ideas exciting design hybrids are being created and this demonstrates the new aesthetic.

Russia and Eastern Europe are fast emerging as a key cultural hub with an array of fine art collections and an influx of edgy boutiques and concept stores appearing on the high streets.

From this year onwards all eyes will be on Russia as the hosts of the G20 summit this year, the Winter Olympics and the Grand Prix Championships in 2014, and the Football World Cup in 2018. Interpretations of Russian history are inspiring films out across the next few years such as, ‘Stalingrad’, ‘The People’s Act of Love and ‘Red Star’ and also ‘Ostalgie’, an exhibition which looks back fondly on life under the former communist regime.

Moscow’s decorative architecture has influenced this luxurious trend

Still taken from ‘Stalingrad’, set to be released at the end of 2013

Eastern European street culture

Kosice, Slovakia, European Capital of Culture 2013

15

soviet legacy

CREATIVE DIRECTION This love affair for Autumn/Winter 2013 will see inspiration being found in all areas of Eastern European culture from rich historical reference points to the current influences found in youth and street culture. The colour palette of deep luxurious tones and spiced mustard yellow is modernised with bursts of sky blue and Russian red.

Mariinsky Theatre, home of the Kirov Ballet

RUSSIAN CONSTRUCTIVISM INSPIRED GRAPHICS, NEW MINIMAL V. ORNATE, FOLK CULTURE, BALLET, RELIGIOUS MYTHOLOGY, ANDROGYNY, ARCHITECTURE

16

Giovanni Squatriti for Essential Homme’s

Aleksandr Rodchenko, Russian Constructivism

Traditional Russian folk painting

Traditional Russian Folk art

Rookie Magazine

Eliseevsky grocery store, Russia

Versace jacket detail

The hybrids created from old Soviet culture with modern society is a key concept for creative direction. This is evident within the juxtaposition between the grandeur of the old-style architectural space in the Eliseevsky grocery store in Russia and the menial task it has been repurposed with.

A sense of luxury within this trend is also significant with luxury being translated through rich, dark woods, tactile velvets and leathers in rich, dark colours and most importantly referencing the opulence of Russian architecture such as the Kremlin or St. Basil’s Cathedral. Models are typically dark and androgynous or blonde with slick, wet-look hair to once again reference affluence.

Cristina Capucci for Essential Homme’s

Giovanni Squatriti for Essential Homme’s

17

Regal OPULANCE VISUAL MERCHANDISING Inspired by Russia’s rich history of lavish Tsars and architecture, visual merchandising echoes this regal extravagance. The contrast between light and dark through shadows is significant in creating visual interest through a colour palette which is prominently deep hues of red and opulent jewel tones.

Study of a Candle’s Shadow by JamesPlumb, 2012

L’Appuntamento, Hong Kong

18

Kevin Mackintosh for GQ Russia, September 2012

Interior designer Timothy Oulton’s take on the tradtional Gentlemen’s club design

DLT window display, Russia Prada Flagship in Moscow by Roberto Baciocchi

Product is curated taking inspiration from art exhibitions, for example, the glass cabinets in Moscow’s Prada flagship are reminiscent of museum collections and also channels the luxury and opulence within this visual merchandising trend. For a more commercial interpretation the old Gentlemen’s clubs are a good visual starting point with the excess of dark panelled wood, chandeliers, and rich luxurious textiles.

Mabel’s, Arizona

DjiNN’S at Bright AW13, Berlin

Traditional Russian rug pattern

OLD GENTLEMEN’S AESTHETIC, ORNATE RUGS, SHADOWS, DARK WOODS, RICH PLUSH VELVET, TUFTED LEATHER UPHOLSTERY, ANTIQUE-INSPIRED FIXTURES, MIX PRINTS, TEXTURED WALLPAPERS, CHANDELIERS, PANELLED WALLS, CURATED PRODUCT Bergdorf Goodman, New York, Feb 2013

Traditional ornate Russian interior

Shakespeare and Company Bookshop in Paris

19

polished folk

PRINT AND GRAPHIC Inspired by Russian folklore and defined by a luxurious patchwork of wallpaper paisley and floral prints in lustrous silks, this trend expresses the extravagance of print. The colour palette continues the opulent deep hues of red and green, but the key is busy multi-coloured folk-inspired patterns with a delicate washed-out aesthetic.

20

Jenni Kayne, Autumn/Winter 2013

Nicole Miller, Autumn/Winter 2013

Louis Vuitton, Autumn/Winter 2013

Dolce & Gabbana Autumn/Winter 2013

Micah Cohen Autumn/Winter 2013

Etro, Autumn/Winter 2013

Hype at Bright, Autumn/Winter 2013

Andrea Pompilio, Autumn/Winter 2013

Saint Laurent, Autumn/Winter 2013

PAISLEY: Paisley is going to be a key Spring/ Summer 2013 print which will follow through to Autumn/Winter 2013 with an update. Contrasting with the billowing and ruffled dainty paisleys from SS13, this season paisleys will be reimagined in a hardy textiles such as brocades and jacquards and opulent printed silks. Pared with simple silhouettes the busy pattern creates striking garments manufactured in an all-over print. This print has also lent itself to be utilised on luxurious suit pieces, from a pair of upholsterylooking trousers to robe-like smoking jackets, this polished folk aesthetic brings simple garments into a new dimension.

Etro, Autumn/Winter 2013

Dries van Noten Autumn/Winter 2013

BUSY MULTI-COLOURED PRINTS, ALL-OVER PRINT ON STAPLE GARMENTS, FOR PARED DOWN SILHOUETTES, LUXE TEXTILES, HEAVY BROCADE, JACQUARD, PRINTED SILKS

Liam Gallagher for Pretty Green Boutique 2010

Dries van Noten Autumn/Winter 2013

Roberto Cavalli,, Autumn/Winter 2013

Aldo AW12, New York

Jake Bugg, up and coming solo artist

Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown, Autumn/Winter 2013

Etro, Autumn/Winter 2013

Givency, Autumn/Winter 2013

Ecotex at Kingpins AW13, Los Angeles

This trend is already in the mass media with musicians such as Liam Gallagher and Jake Bugg who demonstrate the wearability of the intricate, all-over patterned paisley dress shirt. Styled with a nod to 1960’s British Mods, the shirts are smartly worn and buttoned to the top.

21

VELVET, SUIT JACKETS KEY, SMOKING SLIPPERS, BROGUES, EMBROIDERED, JEWEL TONES, LUXURIOUS FABRICS, TWO-PIECE ENSEMBLES, POCKET SQUARES, RICH SHADES

contemporary gentleman MENSWEAR This trend is epitomised by the textiles used in tailoring and the return to opulence and the age of the gentleman. Created in a rich and dark colour palette of midnight blues, deep oxblood red and velvety blacks, the accents of emerald green and lavish purple are mostly found in accessories.

Billy Reid, Autumn/Winter 2013

Alexander McQueen, Autumn/Winter 2013

Morts and More, Autumn/Winter 2013

On the Autumn/Winter 2013 catwalks the men are suited and booted across the board. This season’s tailoring is defined by the use of simple garment shapes with tactile and premium fabric choices to keep them on-trend for AW13 as seen in particular at Canali, DSquared, John Varvatos and Alexander McQueen. Key accessories are minimal with footwear as the main piece distinguished by ornate detailing and a continuation of the use of luxe fabrics. However, notably neckties and bowties alike are being forgone in favour of the shirt buttoned to the top or relaxed and open.

22

Alexander McQueen, Autumn/Winter 2013

Carven, Autumn/Winter 2013

Etroi, Autumn/Winter 2013

Canali, Autumn/Winter 2013

John Varvatos, Autumn/Winter 2013

DSquared, Autumn/Winter 2013

KEY DETAILS:

Roberto Cavalli, Autumn/Winter 2013

John Richmond, Autumn/Winter 2013

Dolce & Gabbana, Autumn/Winter 2013

FOOTWEAR: For footwear, classic gentlemen’s designs of brogues and smoking slippers are updated with exciting, luxurious fabric choices. Contrast panels, plush velvets and ornate embroidery are three key twists to apply to these classic shapes.

Alexander McQueen, Autumn/Winter 2013

A key detail that is going to be stick around into Spring/Summer 2014, the pocket square is testament to the attention to detail in the Gentleman’s attire. Already picked up by celebrities to add a sense of distinction to their look, this season designers are looking to matching colour or fabric to shirt or jacket for a completely put together look.

SUITING: Suiting is pivotal to this trend with eveningwear influences playing a key part in updating blazers in particular.

The embroidered dinner jacket, with classic details such as the single button and shawl collar, has appeared across catwalks and is going to be an important piece for buyers this season. However, also prominent this season is the two-piece suit with a double breasted jacket. Within all the suiting this season regardless of shape, the focus is on luxurious materials such as velvet in rich jewel shades and burnished metallic finishes for a premium finish.

DijNN’S at Bright AW13, Berlin

POCKET SQUARES:

Dolce & Gabbana, Autumn/Winter 2013

Nick Grimshaw

David Gandy

Tom Ford, Autumn/Winter 2013

Richard James, Autumn/Winter 2013

23

CREATIVe combustion

a new sense of expressive freedom with surrealist accents In society there is a new sense of freedom with consumers expressing their political and creative views inspired by surrealism and a desire to escape from the mundane.

Church mural installation by Hense

This creative and colourful trend produces a colour palette filled with bright accents of fuscia pink, grassy green and fresh blues bursting with energy which overlay a sombre spectrum of grey base tones.

Topman Design, Spring/Summer 2013

Drago Marin Cherina

Berlin street art

24

Ai Weiwei installation

Porcelain self portrait by Ye Hongxing Chor Boogie at Thejamjar, Dubai

Paper Street Art, Berlin

An influx in artists expressing themselves through brightly coloured work, such as Chor Boogie and Ye Hongxing, has inspired this colourful trend, uncommon in Autumn/Winter collections. 2013 has heralded a new behavioural trend with creative collaborations between brands and emerging talent becoming commonplace stemming from a new openess from brands to experiment.

In a time of economic uncertainty, Queen of the high street, Mary Portas and approaches such as the ‘No Longer Empty’ movements are transforming vacant commercial spaces to inject excitement into struggling town centres. Berlin street art and contemporary artists inspired by modern culture, such as Ai Weiwei, are turning to redundant spaces as canvases with endless opportunities for them to be reinvented into a thing of beauty through artistic mediums.

Hand crafted stair bannister decoration at Bright, Berlin, AW13

The Mary Effect: Mary Portas, Retail Guru

Remains of the Berlin wall, Berlin

25

FACELESS FREAKS CREATIVE DIRECTION A strong creative direction trend with surrealist undertones is masking faces which will really become prominent in Autumn/Winter 2013. Innocent hues of peachy nudes, baby blue and lightly whipped lemon set a misleading tone while dark shocks of teal and blue create a depth to this trend.

‘Urban style with a survivalist mentality’ - Trend Union

Madame Peripetie, Fashion, Sculpture and the Human Body

26

Ai Weiwei installation

Tim Walker, Storyteller 2012

Obscuring and cropping the head from images has been a graphic trend emerging through fashion editorials and graphics over the past few seasons. However, for Autumn/ Winter 2013 this trend will take lead from a surrealist aesthetic with heads and faces being replaced with realistic and sometimes disturbing images.

For example, the juxtaposition in the image from Trend Union of the fluffy, soft textiles against the dark, faceless depths of the figure is what epitomises this trend. Playing with proportion is key to this trend with oversized heads and faces adding to the unsettling nature of this trend but the surrealist play on proportions can be applied to almost anything.

UNSETTLING, FREAKY, BLURRING LINES BETWEEN REALITY AND NOT, PALE WASHED OUT BASE TONES, ANIMAL FACES, PLAY ON PROPORTIONS, REMOVAL OF THE FACE, COLLAGE, HAND-RENDERED Specific for this trend is the creation of freakish figures from a collagelike amalgamation of animal features combined with the human form. A prime example of this is from the visual merchandising at Tom Tailor Denim in Berlin where grotesque animal heads adorn human figures. The key to this trend is the more surreal and unnerving the more effective it will be for grabbing consumer attention.

Tom Tailor Denim, Berlin, January 2013

Andrea Pompilio, 2013

Andy Warhol Life and Legends, Dulwich Gallery London, 2012

Nicolรกs Santos, Collage

27

CARTOON STYLE GRAPHICS

VISUAL MERCHANDISING A modern update on urban-style graffiti visual merchandising are these bright, geometric cartoonstyle interiors. The colour palette for visual merchandising has matured from pop art-style colours with a younger, more contemporary range of saccharine pastel colours from parma violet to lemon drops.

Fred Butler Pop-Up Store AW13, London Textiles Frau Perez at MoOD September 2012

Chic Young Blood at Bright, AW13

28

Key materials in-store for this trend include acrylic, cardboard and foam core. 2D and 3D props are important with a play on scale and proportion such as an oversized snow globe for Armani Exchange and oversized drawing pins at Bread and Butter, Berlin, echoes the abstract and surrealist undertones of this season.

Typography is bold and graphically outlined typically in black and has a neon colour pop inside. Within the graphic speech bubbles stores are favouring a more hand-rendered type for that.

Visual Citi at Retail Design Collective 2012

Converse at Bread and Butter AW13

Adidas at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

GRAPHIC SPEECH BUBBLES:

Criminal Damage at Bread and Butter 2013 VM at Bread and Butter AW13

In-store visual merchandising has benefited from this emerging trend of graphic speech bubbles as part of their point-of-purchase units. However, as seen at Kate Spade and Bon Marche this trend successfully translates into bold window displays too. Although currently the speech bubbles are used for one or two letter phrases and brand names, this simple visual merchandising trend has extremely versatile commercial prospects as these cardboard cut-outs have the potential to start up a dialogue between the brand and the consumer.

Also, it is a simple yet effective way to bring consumers’ attention to prices or any other important information to be highlighted.

Kate Spade, New York, January 2013

From theredthreadblog.com

Bon Marche, New York, January 2013

GRAPHIC, TEXT BUBBLES, TELEPHONES, COMMUNICATION TOOL, YOUTHFUL, BOLD LINES, HAND-CRAFTED, POP ART INSPIRED, WITTY, VERSATILE

Ceramic Speech Bubble from coxandcox.co.uk

29

ABSTRACT INKS PRINT AND GRAPHIC Inspired by bright, decorative artworks and bold expressive brushstrokes, Abstract Inks is all about surface pattern. A colour palette incorporating bold primary colours alongside mint green and delicate pink is the perfect inspiration for creating new and exciting prints.

Michael van der Ham Spring/Summer 2013

Antoni & Alison Spring/Summer 2013

Versace, Autumn/Winter 2013

Illustration by Emma Cope Meadham Kirchhoff painted leather jacket

PAINTERLY BRUSH STROKES, ABSTRACT SHAPES AND FORMS, BOLD COLOURS, HAND-CRAFTED DETAILING, CLASHING PRINTS AND COLOURS, WATERCOLOUR EFFECTS, LAYERED OVERBLOWN PRINTS, COLLAGE EFFECTS, MULTIMEDIA, WASHED-OUT MONOCHROME, WEARABLE ART Mariskam Meijers Amsterdam

30

Juni by Gerhard Richter, 1983

This trend allows for individual creativity to reign free with print and graphics taking an extremely abstract and expressive aesthetic this season. Prints look hand-rendered, often in large collage-style overblown patterns. Surface pattern is inspired by work of artists like Paul Jenkins who uses watercolour, painterly and inky brushstrokes and shapes on his canvases. Prints come in an array of colours including bold primary colours, washed-out monochromes and delicate pastels and neutrals.

Digital prints will add a sophisticated edge to garments in this otherwise handmade trend.

Paul Jenkins’ Abstract Expressions, New York mbyM at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

Tata Naka, Autumn/Winter 2013

Barbara Nessim Retrospective at The V&A

Ezekiel at Project AW13, Las Vegas

Something Else x Julie Verhoeven

Numph at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

31

SINISTER PORTRAITS MENSWEAR In a backlash to the novelty Christmas jumpers from Autumn/Winter 2012, this season heralds knits and t-shirts with sinister and creepy portraits of animals and humans alike. As expected the colour palette is dark with bright pops of accent greens and yellows.

Jeremy Scott, Autumn/Winter 2013

Jeremy Scott, Autumn/Winter 2013

James Long, Autumn/Winter 2013

Christopher Kane, Autumn/Winter 2013

CARTOON-STYLE PORTRAITS, GROTESQUE HEADS, UNUSUAL ANIMAL GRAPHICS, UNSETTLING, ANTICHRISTMAS JUMPER, KNIT AND JERSEY, MINIMAL SLOGANS, PHOTOSTYLE GRAPHICS COMBINED WITH PAINTERLY IMAGES Juun J, Autumn/Winter 2013

32

Christopher Shannon, Autumn/Winter 2013

Christopher Kane, Autumn/Winter 2013

Sibling, Autumn/Winter 2013

KEY DETAILS: GROTESQUE FACES: For this trend faces are either ‘vandalised’ or hand-rendered but either way these garments, although striking graphic pieces, have a slightly unsettling and disturbing edge.

G-SUS Industries at Bread and Butter AW13

Hips and Hair at Pool AW13, Las Vegas

WOLF MOTIFS:

Eleven Paris at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

Wolf motifs are big at tradeshows this season appearing on t-shirts and jumpers alike. For Autumn/Winter 2013 large scale faces are the design of choice for these animals, however the more snarling and sinister the better.

Eleven Paris at Bread and Butter 2013 demonstrate this exceptionally whilst incorporating bold brushstroke marks and a simple yet abstract colour palette.

Juun J, Autumn/Winter 2013

Louis Vuitton, Autumn/Winter 2013

BIG CATS:

Jeremy Scott, Autumn/Winter 2013

Eleven Paris at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

Criminal Damage at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

Another key animal motif this season is big cats. From crazy-eyed cartoon cats at Louis Vuitton to bold and graphic tigers at Juun J, the cat motifs are dominant on the garment and still unsettling.

33

APPLICATION OF TRENDS FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2013 “Biggest online Christmas ever for clothing”

Andy Clarke (Chief Executive of ASDA), Drapers 2013

“UK’S THIRD LARGEST CLOTHING RETAILER BY VOLUME AND VALUE” Kantar Worldpanel, 2013

GEORGE IS EXPANDING INTO 24 NEW TERRITORIES THROUGHOUT EUROPE VIA GEORGE.COM Drapers, 2013

“CUSTOMERS GLOBALLY, NOT JUST IN THE UK, ARE LOOKING FOR REAL VALUE IN THESE CHALLENGING TIMES” Andrew Moore (Chief Merchandising officer for George), Drapers 2013

34

George currently occupies a very strong position within the value fashion market. It has good communications with its customers, using parent company ASDA’s market as target consumers. Recent reports have suggested that George is increasingly becoming a leader in its market, which, for a supermarket brand is very significant, as it is now seen as the UK’s third largest retailer in terms of volume and value (Kantar Worldpanel 2013). The company has just reported a record Christmas period with the biggest online season ever for clothing (Andy Clarke, Chief Executive of ASDA, Drapers 2013), and it is set to be expanding into 24 new territories throughout Europe via George.com (Drapers 2013).

Trending have identified the leading trends for Autumn/Winter 2013, and compiled an application that is suitable for George, with the aim of updating the brand for the new season simply, quickly and cheaply.

It is therefore vital that the brand capitalises on their stable and promising positioning whilst they can, by continuing to push themselves as a fashion leader on the high street whilst remaining strong in the value market.

George,com presents itself as a trend aware company online with its ‘Style File’ section, for “your fashion inspiration”, which demonstrates how it caters to the style concious customer as well as those just looking for basics.

35

‘HOOK’ PIECES MENSWEAR A focus on menswear has lead us to further develop the three overarching trends identified for Autumn/Winter 2013 in a way that will suit the George brand.

POLISHED FOLK FULL PAISLEY SHIRT

CONTEMPORARY GENTLEMAN VELVET EMBROIDERED DINNER JACKET

SINISTER PORTRAITS disturbing encompassing graphics

As seen at Dries van Noten AW13

As seen at Dolce and Gabanna AW13

As seen at Christopher Kane AW13

In order to push the brand’s fashion credentials, we suggest that George creates three separate hook pieces, which will be picked up by press, used in editorials and increase the reputation of the company for delivering on trend clothing.

These three key products would be ideal for mannequin styling to enhance the impact of the George section of the ASDA supermarket. It would be vital to include these pieces in any promotion, including television, print and in store advertisments, styled into looks that the brand’s consumers would view as ‘wearable’. Whilst on their own, these products may only appeal to only the fashion-concious sector of George’s market, when styled, there is sufficient evidence that proves the increase in purchase, as daunted customers are able to see how they can be worked into an outfit.

36

Printed shirts currently at George

George has a ‘suit shop’’

Graphic tees currently at George

‘BANKER’ PIECES MENSWEAR SINISTER PORTRAITS CENTRED ICON GRAPHIC

Christopher Kane AW13

Bread and Butter, Berlin AW13

The novelty jumper is out, the sinister character is in. Darker icons and motifs are an easy way to incorporate AW13 into an outfit. Referencing horrors like frankistein, these basic tees and jumpers will be sell outs with an on-trend spin.

CONTEMPORARY GENTLEMAN velvet double breasted jacket

Dolce and Gabbana AW13

Canali AW13

A double breasted velvet dinner jacket will instantly add a touch of gentleman chic. Elegant but updated with a mod twist, the velvet jacket will be the coolest spin on suitwear for AW13, and is easy to pair down with jeans for a more casual look.

POLISHED FOLK PRINTED PATCH POCKET TEE

Villian at Bread and Butter AW13, Berlin

Criminal Damage at Bread and Butter AW13

The printed pocket tee is the most subtle way of adding this season’s latest print messages to tshirts in a much more commercial appeal and more affordable way. Printed pockets combine with printed sleeve turn-ups this season for a newer direction.

Alongside the top three hook pieces in George’s Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, there will also be a continuation of these trends into banker items. Products like pocket tees, graphic tees and jumpers can be updated with the twists of A/W13 and still remain at George’s value price. An adaption of the classic men’s pocket tee for example would see a paisley detail added to the pocket, a change from the aztec print that has been popular for the last few seasons.

These products will be best sellers, at the lowest price point whilst still offering an on-trend update. They will also appeal to George’s less fashion concious consumer, who doesn’t want the full-on look offered by the hook piece, but will tap into the style with a banker piece.

These products will be the moneymakers, and will be easy updates of pre-existing George basics.

37

KEEP MOVING FORWARD

38