Fashion Futures Essay

Eleanor O’Brien

FIG 2: Fast Fashion activist. (2022) Photographed by Holly Falconer

ABSTRACt.

The purpose of this essay is to understand what the future of the fashion industry will look like to me as a communicator. What will be the new normal? And to understand how we will live with less. The ever-growing industry that is the resale market could ultimately slow down fast fashion. This essay will explore how this will improve the industry, sustainably. The current economic crisis has meant the cost of living has been rising following the COVID 19 pandemic and the war happening in Europe. Consumers are having to rethink their buying habits and limit their spending. Purchasing new clothes is beginning to feel like a luxury to many. This essay will also investigate how fast fashion brands will adapt to survive this new change. Consumers are caring more about the planet after activists bring to light environmental issues. The image to the left shows protests that took place by young fast fashion activists, in a bid to stop the brand Pretty Little Thing, releasing more unethical garments and adding to the world’s overconsumption problem. The UK is running out of land space for the disposal of textile waste; the industry needs to change to survive their current consumers who are outspoken, open-minded and value transparency; Generation Z.

FIG 3: Greta Thunberg (2019) photographed for Refenery 29.

INTRODUCTION.

Currently Generation Z are becoming more aware that the fast fashion industry is the second most polluting industry. They are starting to think about their own carbon footprint and are making more conscious decisions to buy from brands with more sustainable and ethical policies in place. Even before the Covid pandemic, this generation were turning towards the second-hand market and rethinking their buying habits after the awareness of environmental issues being brought to light by environmental activists, such as Greta Thunberg and David Attenborough. When lockdown began, consumers were forced to stay at home and businesses ordered to close. This affected how people shopped. People were furloughed by the government and earning less, therefore they had to make more conscious decisions on their spending habits. (Smith, n,d)

The resale market is since growing at rapid rates, consumers are looking to save money and think about their carbon footprint. Consumers can buy clothing that has previously been worn without causing them to break the bank and is also a great way to be more environmentally conscious. With the cost-ofliving crisis becoming a big issue, consumers are being forced to budget their money and look for bargains when shopping. With these factors in place, it makes the perfect environment for consumers to move towards the resale market and wear pre-loved fashion. (Khan,2022). It’s important to our planet for consumers to start buying pre-loved items, as it means a reduction to throw away fashion, involving consumers buying fast fashion items only to throw away after a few uses. This will only cause more and more issues for our planet, filling up our landfills and having nowhere to dispose the waste (Oakafor, 2022).

The History of the second hand market.

Pre-loved clothing, also known as second hand clothing, has evolved since the Middle Ages and the beginning of the renaissance in the fourteenth century. At the time new clothing was seen as a luxury that very few could afford. Fast fashion was not around at this time. Clothing was tailor- made, unique and would be used until the very last, passing through generations of families. Masters would often give their worn clothing to their servants as a form of payment. It was common to see secondhand clothing stalls scattered across many cities. It was at these stalls where servants would donate their wealthy employers clothing to sell onto the urban merchant class (smezzina, 2020). (see to images on page 7). The end of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century saw the arrival of ready to wear garments. This is massed produced clothing in standardised sizes which effectively cuts costs and means designers could sell to a new market. As a result, second-hand clothing began to lose its appeal and became an export to African countries. Fashion began to grow rapidly due to the cheaper mass-produced clothing; it became easily accessible for many; this was the beginning of fast fashion. The world then faced the problem of going from having not enough clothing to having too much clothing. This resulted in a stigma around second-hand clothing, people thought wearing old clothes meant you couldn’t afford new ones (Ethitude,2017).

FIG 4: Shoes at an east end market (1948) photographed by Collins, B FIG 5: Second hand market (2001) photographed by Nilin, V.

GENERATION Z VALUES.

Generation Z are changing the game when it comes to consumerism. Brands are having to quickly adapt to their needs and values when it comes to purchasing goods. From their early years they have been surrounded by technology, living in a virtual world that is social media. With the help of technology, they have unlimited access to information regarding sustainability and are very much aware of what the fast fashion industry is doing to our planet. Generation Z don’t know any different to a life with apps, instant communication and having information at the palms of their hands. This generation is made up of people born loosely between the years 1995 and 2010 (Francis, Hoefel,2018). There is estimated to be 2 billion Gen Z’s that make up the world’s population. Generation Z are quick to spot when they are being misdirected since growing up in an era of “fake news”, they are looking for brands that are authentic and transparent. Generation Z value those brands that are clear about what they stand for, and they want brands to demonstrate that they are trustworthy. (Gen Z brand relationships,2017)

The results from a primary Instagram Poll, answered by members of Generation Z, conclude young people are open to the idea of wearing second hand fashion. The majority are willing to consider purchasing garments from resale apps such as Depop and Vinted. The results evidently also portray the overconsumption problem we are facing, with 93% admitting to purchasing items of clothing and remaining unworn in their wardrobes. 100% of those agreed that changes need to be made within the fashion industry to find a solution to the overconsumption problem. This conveys that participants who have responded to the poll, know they are part of the problem for overconsumption but now are willing to make a change in order to restore the industries sustainable flaws.

FIG

Photography collage by Eleanor O’Brien

Generation Z are obsessed with nostalgia, bringing back vintage clothing and are advocates of change when it comes to fashion. “With this generation, old is new again; vintage is charismatic” (Bedu,2021). Many celebrities have been seen wearing vintage clothes. Wearing an outfit that has its own history seems to empower this generation. With the likes of Olivia Rodrigo, wearing 1995 ready to wear Chanel tweed set to visit the White House and more controversially Kim Kardashian wearing Marilyn Monroe’s iconic JFK birthday dress to the Met Gala earlier this year (2022) (Bedu, 2021). The second-hand clothing market is growing at rapid rates and is estimated to be worth around $30 billion. It is estimated to grow 18% annually through to 2024 and Gen Z are the driving force. According to the vice president of digital marketplace, Depop, its users consist of 90% being under the age of 26. This generation are rethinking their carbon footprint and looking to buy more unique and vintage pieces, sharing their finds on social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram in the form of reels (Hoffower, 2021).

Over the summer of 2022 the popular TV show amongst young people, Love Island, announced its partnership with online marketplace eBay. After years of being sponsored by fast fashion brands it came as a shock to viewers to see the TV show partner with a pre-loved clothing site. Contestants of the show are known to have an influential impact on viewers fashion choices, often items worn on the show can sell out within minutes. If any show is able to change the stigma that has been attached to pre-loved clothing it would be Love Island (Khan,2022). The partnership came about after the rise of UK shoppers becoming more conscious of fast fashion brands and the effect it's having on our planet. 20% of Brits have admitted to buying more pre-loved clothing compared to two years ago. eBay expressed their excitement with their partnership with Love Island and aimed to “flip the conversation around fashion”, they intend to inspire the nation to rethink their buying habits and encouraging consumers to make more conscious decisions. (eBay becomes Love Islands first pre-loved partner, 2022).

Older generations are following in Gen Z’s footsteps. Jane Fonda is an iconic film star, activist, and former model. She’s been very vocal through the years on vintage fashion, opening up on how she’s made conscious decisions to wear more vintage staples and to be more sustainable. For the 2020 Oscars she recycled the gown she had worn at the 2014 Cannes film festival and paired her outfit with sustainable jewellery. She has since stated she will not be purchasing any new clothes. “I’m following what the young people are doing. I’m not telling them; they are inspiring me”. – Jane Fonda. This conveys how Generation Z are the game changers not only within the fashion industry, but also within global political issues. Gen Z are vocal to express their opinions and evidently inspire older generations to stand with them for a brighter future and for generations to come (Harvey, 2019).

“I’m following what the young people are doing. I’m not telling them; they are inspiring me“

FIG 10: Jane Fonda (2020). phtographed by Getty Images

The Cause of the rise in pre-loved clothing.

The fashion industry is the second most polluting industry in the world, responsible for 8-10% of global carbon emissions (Ro, 2020). Fast Fashion involves companies such as Boohoo, Zara and H&M as being amongst those producing mass amounts of cheap clothing. They are able to make huge profits by satisfying the needs of younger consumers, such as generation Z who will buy into trends. These brands copy high end luxury designer’s latest catwalk styles but design, produce and sell them in stores, in mass quantities in as little as two weeks, making these trends more accessible for the average person. (Maiiti, 2022) This has created a disposable view on fashion, fuelling a throw away culture influenced by consumerism. “When we throw things away, we waste all the carbon, water, materials and labour that have gone into making them.” – (Marcus Gover). We are facing the problem of producing more clothing than we need. Roughly we are consuming 80 billion new items of clothing every year and only wearing them as little as 7 times before throwing them away. With only 1% of garments actually being recycled due to the long and complicated recycling process. With trends coming in and out of fashion at rapid rates, consumers are no longer purchasing clothing to last but rather being influenced to view garments as easily replaceable. This is so fast fashion brands can continue to release new items weekly, unlike higher end designers releasing new collections seasonally (Cheng,2021). According to a new report from eBay Ads UK, the ongoing cost-of-living crisis has been causing significant shifts in consumer behaviour, leading to purchasing secondhand goods and other circular shopping practices. eBay have said, UK consumers are turning to secondhand shopping and upcycling as a response to the region's rising cost of living, which has seen fuel, food, and energy bills rise. According to the marketplace analysis, which polled 1,000 UK respondents, 30% of consumers are having to make more deliberate decisions to obtain better value for their money, and a fifth are purchasing more second-hand goods to save money. 19% of respondents said it was important to them to shop as sustainably as possible, and 22% said they were mindful of throwing away or sending products to a landfill that could be fixed or sold on. Sustainability also played a significant role in the responses. 19% of people added that they were attempting to steer clear of fast fashion companies or those that they thought were unethical. “Between the rising cost-of-living and a growing desire to make more sustainable purchases, UK consumers are increasingly thinking about how they can be savvy with their shopping,” said eBay. (Douglass, 2022)

FIG 11: Photography by Craig McDean for Vogue. FIG 12: Ecoalf fall/ winter 19 (2019)

Utilizing secondhand clothing, reduces C02 emissions as well as energy and water usage. Additionally, from the perspective of consumers, secondhand items are frequently a terrific way to express individual style and promote a more sustainable lifestyle in general. Consumers are switching to secondhand shopping as a result of growing ecological consciousness and rising living expenses (the rise of second-hand fashion,2022). According to the BBC, extending a garment's lifespan by almost 9 months will diminish its environmental impact compared to purchasing new by 20% to 30%. The whole secondhand market is expected to reach US$80 billion by 2029, approximately double the size of the US$43 billion fast fashion industry, according to analysts. This is due to the fact consumers are more aware that purchasing secondhand goods contributes to extending product lifespans, reducing unsustainable new manufacturing, and preventing waste from going to landfill (Ho,2022). Even if Preloved clothes sales have significantly increased and continue to increase, fast fashion is still expected to continue, which presents a huge potential for the sector to adapt and change. A truly sustainable fashion industry requires the development of a closed-loop, circular economy, and the resale of preloved clothing will be essential to this. Brands must react to this appropriately. For instance, circularity must now be included into the design of clothing from the outset in order to account for resale and repair. This includes avoiding fast fashion trends in favour of longer-lasting, higher-quality designs, and selecting materials that will survive through several wears and owners (the rise of second-hand fashion,2022).

HOW RESALE SITES ARE CHANGING THE GAME.

Secondhand fashion is becoming increasingly popular, especially among Generation Z. With the assistance of social media, the notion of buying pre-worn items is suddenly trendy, and not just for people on a budget. This renewed interest in thrifting is spreading to online channels, with the number of resale sites specialising in the selling of preloved apparel, such as Depop, Thredup, Vinted and Vestiaire rapidly increasing. As the surge of resale increases, major companies such as Levi's and New Look, are getting in on the game by selling pre-worn merchandise, particularly Depop, vinted and Vestiarie who are unique in the sense that they are set up like social networking sites, sharing articles and news whilst also creating feeds consumers can scroll through to come across unique vintage pieces at the touch of a screen. (Wright,2022).

Depop which has been deemed Gen Z’s favourite resale app, being the ringleader of the resale market, have been teaming up with higher end popular brands such as Levi’s and Dr Martins to create collaborations that target a new market of consumers and break down the stigma barriers around secondhand fashion. Levi’s are known for their sustainable attributes, launching their global buy better, wear longer campaign that was pioneered by Generation Z activists and influencers such as musician, designer, and actor Jaden Smith and YouTuber Emma Chamberlain, who urged their peers to reuse, repurpose, and reduce their consumption impact. Levi’s head of marketing at Australia and New Zealand, Trent Bos, expressed his interest in “encouraging everyone to buy better and wear longer”. He also added that his intention with this collaboration is to encourage creativity in order for people to upcycle clothing already hanging in their wardrobes and to “ultimately help accelerate more sustainable living to create a better world of tomorrow.” Depop has grown beyond a resale app and has now become a community of environmentally conscious individuals, young entrepreneurs, and creatives. (Huntington,2021). Levi’s collaboration with Depop consists of reworked and made new again signature pieces that have been creatively transformed with illustrations. The new denim collection is available through Depop shops that are Gen Z creators Premium Zoo, furrylittlepeach, and EXXY. Each of the creators have taken pairs of upcycled 501’s and truckers’ jackets to let loose and be as creative as they want on each piece of garment. (Pirovic, 2021).

FIG 14: Screenshot by Eleanor O’Brien

FIG 15: Photography by Bertholot, E. for Glamour Magazine

FIG 16: Screenshot by Eleanor Obrien

Depop stand for creating a better future in terms of sustainability and the fashion industry. Depop say changing fashion isn’t difficult. It's as simple as altering our shopping habits. Keeping garments that have previously passed from one person to another. Keeping the tales, culture, values, and designs alive for as long as feasible. They want to spread the sustainable message, to let go of what isn’t working and build something with more vibrancy, opportunity, optimism, and something that symbolises how we wish to regard one another and our home. Circular fashion could be the new sustainable system the industry needs. There are currently 26 million registered users on Depop alone, 90% of these active users are generation Z, being under the age of 26, across 150 countries globally. Depop’s most popular styles that sell the most include vintage, streetwear, one of a kind and Y2K (year 2000’s style) (Depop newsroom, 2022).

Resale apps enable young people to create businesses within a niche market. People are able to set up profiles and can allow their creativity to flourish, creating their own branding from logos to creating a name and putting their stamp on their profile page. Whilst people can shop on these resale platforms, they are also able to make money and a livelihood through the apps (How to get rich, 2020). Consumers aged 25 and under regard resale shopping as a sport, with the purpose of reselling used luxury items at greater prices later. The tendency has grown in popularity as the country's inflationary difficulties worsen (Bloomberg, 2022).

The Vintage Store has taken over popular fast fashion brand Topshop’s space on the high street, in Liverpool One. Topshop fell into administration during lockdown restrictions in 2021, resulting in the closure of all their stores across the UK. The Vintage Store has been targeting and moving into huge vacant fashion stores around the country on an anti-fast fashion campaign. According to the founders, business partners Aaron Thornhill and Kane Blythe, it will not only be Liverpool's largest vintage store, but also the largest in the United Kingdom. The Vintage Store, which bills itself as the UK's largest vintage shop, specialises in giving pre-loved garments a second life on a vast scale. Their intentions are to encourage buyers to think more carefully about what they wear and the environmental impact it makes. "It's giving clothing a second chance rather than throwing them away," Aaron explained. The brand aims to help people modify their purchasing habits, and the partnership is eager to lead the charge toward re-wearing rather than fast fashion, including manufacturing hats and totes out of damaged or unsaleable items so that nothing goes to waste (Vintage Store take over, 2022)

FIG

Photography by Eleanor O’Brien

FIG 18: Photography by Eleanor O’Brien

FIG

Photography by Eleanor O’Brien

How fast fashion brands ARE adapting in order to survive this new change.

The tension between the second-hand market and fast fashion market is occurring. Vintage stores and online second-hand markets are attacking the fast fashion industry and calling them out for their unethical policies. Fast fashion brands are having to adapt in order to survive the media and win their consumers over. The Vintage Store in Liverpool has a variety of posters throughout the shop calling out fast fashion and the impact it’s causing to our home (see image on page 27). With the majority of fast fashion brands targeting Gen Z, who value transparency and shop from brands who are authentic, sustainable and communicate their environmental actions. (Gen Z brand relationships,2017). Fast Fashion brands are launching their own resale platforms, in order to adapt to consumers’ needs and wants. The future of the fashion industry is heading in a sustainable direction, second hand is becoming the new trend. From luxury giants to fast fashion powerhouses, companies are increasingly thriving on secondhand growth. Among the names contributing to the 275% increase in brandowned secondhand stores are Ganni, Gucci, COS, Levi's, Nike, Adidas, and Mara Hoffman. Fast Fashion brands want in on the game, earlier this year (2022) Pretty Little Thing (PLT) announced the launch of its resale app “It will be an app where girls can resell their PLT pieces and pretty much anything pre-loved” – Molly- Mae Hague, 2022, creative director for PLT. The following month, PLT's parent company, Boohoo Group, revealed plans to launch a resale platform for all of its brands, which include Nasty Gal, MissPap, boohoo MAN, Warehouse, and Debenhams, by 2023. This is said to most likely be an attempt to recoup sales that customers have begun to take elsewhere. In 2021, PLT was the fifth highest listed brand on Depop, trailing Topshop in first, Zara in third, and ASOS in fourth. Boohoo placed seventh. (Benson, 2022). For fast fashion resale to really overturn the fashion industry, the industry must fundamentally displace production. The majority of fashion's emissions are created during the production stage, reducing manufacturing in favour of reselling what already exists reduces a significant portion of fashion's total impact. Hugo Boss stated that "purchasing second hand saves an average of 44% of CO2 emissions compared to buying new" when it announced the introduction of a resale marketplace in 2022 (Benson, 2022).

FIG 20: Photography by Eleanor O’Brien

Zara have recently joined in on the game of resale. Launching “Zara Pre-Owned” which is available through Zara stores, Zara.com and its mobile app. Zara have stated they are intending to help their customers extend the useful life of their products. They have three different recycled options for their customers being, Repair, Resell and Donate. Zara have said they won’t be using their resale platform to promote new collections to their consumers but rather keep it as a space for consumers to be able to make better sustainable choices. (Zara Pre-Owned, 2022). Many have argued fast fashion brands are using resale platforms as a way to greenwash, which involves brands misleading consumers to believe they are shopping sustainably. However, in order for brands to become truly sustainable they would need to work towards a degrowth paradigm, which necessitates a reduction in output and new consumption, according to sustainability experts (Webb,2022). “If they’re launching a resale platform without reducing their overall output, that’s a red flag” said Brett Stainiland who is a sustainable fashion influencer and ex contestant of Love Island, who regularly challenges fast fashion brands sustainable claims to his social media followers, that consist of Gen Z.

FIG 21: Collage by Eleanor O’Brien

FIG 22: Photography by Eleanor O’Brien

conclusion.

Unarguably consumers are becoming more aware of the overconsumption crisis within the textile industry. Generation Z are the ring leaders for generating change, influencing older generations as well as the younger generation to make a stand against world political issues, more specifically overconsumption within the fashion industry. Generation Z are seeing straight through greenwashing, growing up around the era of “Fake News’, this generation know when brands aren’t being transparent and aren’t shy to take their business elsewhere. Resale platforms such as Depop, Vinted and Vestiaire have become increasingly popular due to the cost-of-living crisis and consumers becoming more informed on global warming issues and the overconsumption crisis, resulting in the UK eventually running out of landfill space to dispose of textile waste.

Generation Z are wanting to make more sustainable choices and resale platforms have been targeting this generation by ensuring their apps are set out in the same format as social media sites. Generation Z are now more informed on the harm the fashion industry does to our planet. Vintage sites are teaching consumers to shop more sustainably, by purchasing second hand clothing ultimately reduces consumers carbon footprint and bringing new life to garments. Influencers and collaborations are popular amongst Gen Z. The TV show ‘Love Island’ has had a huge influential impact on this generation with clothing worn by contestants selling out within minutes. The TV shows recent change to a pre-loved partnership over their usual fast fashion partnership has had a major influence on Generation Z. Inspiring this generation to wear one-of-a-kind garments and consider their own carbon footprint. Fast Fashion brands have felt the threat of the rise of the second-hand market, ushering in their own resale platforms to stay ahead of the game and win over their consumers. However, this generation can spot when brands are not being authentic. Greenwashing won’t work with this generation. If fast fashion brands want to stay connected to their consumers, they will need to stay emotionally connected as well as remaining loyal and honest to honour generation Z’s values. The future of the fashion industry is looking to be more sustainably focused, currently the industry is no doubt heading in a circular fashion concept. There is no straight road ahead to a truly sustainable industry, but resale apps such as Depop and Vinted are making that road smoother. The rise in pre-loved clothing could evidently influence fast fashion brands to reduce the number of garments they produce each year, resulting in a more sustainable industry in the future. Generation Z will continue to be an advocate of change and inspire future generations as well as older, to shop sustainably.

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