The Drift - Vol. 2 - Final

BY ELEVEN ANGLING

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the second edition of The Drift, the fly fishing publication of Eleven Angling. Adventure, nature, and creativity are core to the Eleven ethos. Here, we’ve collected stories from angling adventures of the year that embrace those qualities, whether a how-to on fishing Chilean Patagonia’s unique riverlake systems, a biography on a Kiwi diehard chefangler, or a backstage glimpse with the RnD team that dialed our newest Ski to Sea Experience. We invite you to explore the people, places, and fisheries that give our angling adventures purpose and the distinction of meeting an Eleven standard.

WE HOPE YOU CATCH THE DRIFT.

COLORADO CHILE

CHILEAN MIST

A lake to remain unnamed in Chilean Patagonia on a misty day.

ICELAND NEW ZEALAND

130

Story by: April Vokey 94 Ski to Sea Experience: Behind the Scenes

106

Hunting Sea Monsters: The Fight to Banish Open-Net Pen Salmon Farms in Iceland

122

Casting New Lines: Women’s Week at Owen River Lodge

140 Myth-busting with Kiwi Guides

Flóki Studios: Sounds from the Far North 150 Chef Profile: Gordon C. Sutherland

Photo: Chris Burkard

HÖLKNÁ RIVER, ICELAND

A bright Atlantic salmon caught in August.

ELEVEN ANGLING TEAM

CAMERON DAVENPORT

Director—Eleven Angling

BRIAN O’KEEFE

Angling Product Manager

ELLIOT MANNING

Angling Sales Manager

GUIDE TEAMS

BAHAMAS GUIDE TEAM

CHILE GUIDE TEAM

ICELAND GUIDE TEAM

NEW ZEALAND GUIDE TEAM

FOUNDERS OF ELEVEN ANGLING

CHAD PIKE

BLAKE PIKE

JOHN FEATHERMAN

CONTRIBUTORS

GLOBAL STAFF

DIEGO BEVACQUA

Rio Palena Lodge Manager

Chile Experience Planner

WADE KOEMAN

CREATIVE TEAM

Lead Designer

TRINI ERRÁZURIZ Editor & Writer

Flóki Studios Director

DOUG KRAUSE

Global Ski Operations Manager

TONY ARDISSON

Operations Manager

SCOTTIE LITTLE

Cedar Lodge Manager

MOLLY MINETT

Regional Director of Operations

BEN OLDREAD

Colorado Maintenance Supervisor

DAVID PIKE

Owen River Lodge Manager

GORDON C. SUTHERLAND

Cedar Lodge Chef

CLARA CAPONE

ALEX BAMBEI Graphic Designer

SARAH GRIGG

APRIL VOKEY ADDITIONAL CONTRIBUTORS

ERIC KALLEN

GREETINGS

GREETINGS

TROUT IN THE WILD WEST

Streams in the Centennial State are famed for their abundance of rainbow, brown, and cutthroat trout, offering exceptional fly fishing in clear, scenic waters.

GOLD MEDAL WATERS

FISHING THE TAYLOR RIVER AND BEYOND

Born in the heart of Colorado’s famous “14’ers,” the headwaters of the Taylor River tumble 9,300 feet from the high country before flowing into Taylor Reservoir. From here, the river winds through a stunning gray-to-rusty granite canyon offering year-round fishing in a picturesque setting. With its cold waters, large boulders, and diverse insect habitat, the Taylor is home to brown, rainbow, and cutthroat trout (some of them trophy-sized) eager for a well-placed dry fly.

The fish are healthy and strong, providing a thrilling challenge in swift currents. Whether you’re casting large dry flies or a size #24 midge, from a boat or on foot, the

Taylor River and the broader fishery offer something for every angler.

For guests at Taylor River Lodge, the challenge is choosing not only which section of the Taylor River to fish, but from among the many rivers in the area. With 12 rivers nearby, each offering unique geography and water levels, insect hatches, and access points, anglers can rely on our guides, who are well-versed in local conditions. Whether you prefer floating or walk-and-wade fishing, a guide can offer the best strategy for the day. Often, the best approach is simply asking the guide, “Where would you go if you were me?”

CABIN CATCH

Some of the best fishing spots on the Taylor River are right outside the lodge.

IN 2023, THE TAYLOR RIVER WAS DESIGNATED BY COLORADO PARKS AND WILDLIFE AS A GOLD MEDAL FISHERY FOR THE 20 MILES FROM THE OUTLET AT TAYLOR PARK RESERVOIR DOWNSTREAM TO THE TOWN OF ALMONT. THE QUALIFYING STANDARD FOR THIS DESIGNATION IS 60 POUNDS OF FISH PER ACRE, ALONG WITH AT LEAST 12 QUALITY TROUT OF 14 INCHES OR GREATER PER ACRE. THIS DESIGNATION REFLECTS SERIOUS CONSERVATION EFFORTS BY ELEVEN AND OTHER LOCAL ORGANIZATIONS TO STEWARD THE FISHERY RESPONSIBLY.

A ROCKY MOUNTAIN HIDEAWAY

Tucked away amidst the vast expanse of 1.7 million acres of the Gunnison National Forest and flanked by the clear water of the Taylor River, Eleven’s Taylor River Lodge stands in a canyon rich with history.

THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF THE TAYLOR RIVER AND CANYON IS TRULY SPECIAL. OVER TIME, THIS RIVER HAS BEEN ORGANICALLY SHAPED BY ROCK FALL, WASHED-UP DEBRIS, AND EROSION, PROVIDING PERFECT HABITAT FOR TROUT.

FOUNDATIONS OF A FISHERY

Fisheries management in Colorado began in the 1860s. Species of self-sustaining game fish, such as rainbow and brown trout, were introduced in the 1870s. These fish set the foundation for Colorado’s reputation as a world-class trout fishing destination.

JUST UPSTREAM FROM TAYLOR RIVER LODGE LIES A CHALLENGING SECTION OF RIVER BELOW THE DAM, KNOWN FOR PRODUCING RECORD-SIZE TROUT, MANY OVER 21 INCHES. THIS IS A MASSIVE DRAW THAT ATTRACTS ANGLERS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD. BUT BE WARNED: FISHING THIS SPOT OFTEN DELIVERS AN EGO CHECK, AS THESE FISH TEND TO BE VERY SELECTIVE IN THEIR FEEDING AND WILL HUMBLE EVEN THE BEST ANGLER.

A FISH FOR THE BOOKS

A 20+ inch rainbow caught below the dam during a match-the-hatch scenario with a PMD dun.

COLD, CLEAR WATER

The water released from the reservoir creates ideal conditions, allowing these trout to grow to impressive sizes.

SAVVY GAME FISH

These fish have seen everything. Thoughtful fly selection, accuracy, a flawless drift, and humility are requisite.

FLOATING THE GUNNISON

As the evening hatch unfolds, a boat moves slowly, working the bank and looking for rising fish.

ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR EXCURSIONS IS A FLOAT TRIP ON THE GUNNISON RIVER, KNOWN FOR ITS PROLIFIC INSECT HATCHES. USING A DRY-DROPPER RIG IS ESPECIALLY EFFECTIVE HERE, AND THE STUNNING SCENERY CAN ONLY BE APPRECIATED FROM THE RIVER. GUIDES TEACH ESSENTIAL TECHNIQUES LIKE MENDING THE LINE AND IDENTIFYING PRIME HOLDING WATER, SKILLS USEFUL ON ANY RIVER.

YELLOW SALLY

Considered by many the most beautiful of the stoneflies, anglers can easily spot bright yellow sallies fluttering over water.

EARLY SUMMER IS A FAVORITE TIME TO FISH THE WATERS AROUND TAYLOR RIVER LODGE. THE HATCHES ARE FANTASTIC, PARTICULARLY THE MAYFLY HATCHES IN LATE JUNE AND JULY. GREEN DRAKES STEAL THE SHOW, BUT PMDS, CADDIS, GOLDEN STONES, AND YELLOW SALLIES GET EVEN THE MOST SELECTIVE TROUT TO LOOK UP AND SWALLOW A DRY FLY. DURING THIS TIME, FISH RISE AND EAT VERY AGGRESSIVELY, ESPECIALLY WHEN A BIG GREEN DRAKE POPS ACROSS THE WATER.

GOLDEN STONE HUSKS

These large-bodied stoneflies take two years to mature as nymphs before emerging from the water. Understanding aquatic insect life cycles can help anglers time their trips and choose the right flies for each season, maximizing chances for success on Colorado’s renowned waters.

TAYLOR RIVER LODGE OFFERS ACCESS TO TOMICHI CREEK, A SECLUDED MEADOW STREAM NEAR GUNNISON. THIS PRISTINE STRETCH IS HOME TO WILD BROWN AND THE OCCASIONAL RAINBOW TROUT THAT RARELY ENCOUNTER ANGLERS, MAKING FOR AN IDEAL SPOT TO HOOK A LARGE FISH IN A PEACEFUL SETTING.

Working upstream in an ideal scenario—clear sky, not a hint of wind, prolific hatches, quiet water.

TOMICHI CREEK

A CLASSIC HORSESHOE BEND

Tomichi Creek is a ranch stream that holds good water and moderate flow, making for easy wading through the season.

LAKE FORK RIVER

One of the many options to sample while staying at Taylor River Lodge, this is a true freestone stream that can be walked all day.

EVEN FARTHER OFF THE BEATEN PATH ARE SEVERAL HIGH MOUNTAIN LAKES THAT ARE HIKE-IN ONLY. THESE LAKES HOLD CUTTHROAT TROUT AND INCREDIBLE VIEWS, PARTICULARLY DURING THE PEAK WILDFLOWER SEASON. IN THE FALL, HOPPER FISHING TAKES OFF. ADDITIONALLY, LANDLOCKED KOKANEE—WHICH ARE HARDFIGHTING AND FAST—MAKE A MIGRATORY RUN FROM A RESERVOIR UP THE GUNNISON RIVER.

THE GUNNY

Fall fly fishing on the Gunnison, when flows are low and the wading is easy.

OUR GUIDES CAST DRY FLIES TO MOST FISH. ANGLERS CAN OFTEN HEADHUNT OR FIND FISH HOLDING IN SHALLOW WATER THAT CAN BE TARGETED. NOT SKIPPING POCKETS ALONG THE WALK IS IMPERATIVE. NEVER SKIP A POCKET. ALMOST EVERY EDDY HOLDS FISH, SO TAKE YOUR TIME, GET IN POSITION, AND MANAGE YOUR LINE TO KEEP THE FLIES IN THE POCKET WITHOUT THE CURRENT REDIRECTING YOUR PRESENTATION.

TAYLOR RIVER LODGE

The back deck places guests on the riverbank for dining and enjoying the sound of the river.

IN THE END, FISHING AT TAYLOR RIVER LODGE IS MORE THAN JUST A SPORT—IT’S AN IMMERSION INTO A LANDSCAPE SHAPED BY HISTORY, CONSERVATION, AND A DEEP RESPECT FOR NATURE. THE RIVER’S WINDING CURRENTS, THRIVING TROUT, AND CLASSIC COLORADO TOPOGRAPHY OFFER A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE FOR ANGLERS OF ALL LEVELS. WHETHER IT’S THE THRILL OF LANDING A RECORD-SIZE TROUT OR THE QUIET SATISFACTION OF CASTING INTO A SECLUDED MEADOW STREAM, THE TAYLOR RIVER AND BEYOND REMAIN A TESTAMENT TO COLORADO’S RICH TROUT FISHING HERITAGE AND RUGGED BEAUTY.

1. Patagonia Swiftcurrent Expedition Zip-Front Waders

2. Patagonia Granite Crest Rain Jacket

3. Access to your guide’s fly box

4. Thomas & Thomas Paradigm and Avantt Rods

2

Packing for a fly fishing vacation can cause even the most seasoned traveling angler to break a sweat. Fitting bulky boots, puffy waders, and fragile rods and reels can make for an overwhelming exercise and often calls for additional luggage. With the goal of streamlining guests’ planning, every Eleven lodge provides angling kits.

Aside from navigating bulk, anglers might have to pack with certain laws and regulations in mind. For example, felt-soled wading boots are banned in some destinations to prevent the spread of aquatic invasive species. Some countries even require equipment to undergo biosecurity screening. Travelers might also face stringent baggage weight restrictions for certain flights, adding yet another hitch to the packing game.

Let us know your sizing details in advance and your kit will be waiting upon arrival.

5. Patagonia

Wading Socks with Gravel Guard

6. Abel Vaya and Lamson Litespeed Reels

7. Patagonia Wading Boots

A THOUGHTFULLY CURATED

MOUNTAIN RETREAT

TAYLOR RIVER LODGE

TAYLOR RIVER LODGE: A THOUGHTFULLY CURATED MOUNTAIN RETREAT

Our Taylor River Lodge is more than a fly fishing getaway; it’s a testament to the art of thoughtful curation. Designed to feel like a sporting lodge that has evolved over generations, this Colorado mountain retreat embodies a layered, collected vibe that exudes charm, nostalgia, and an attuned Rocky Mountain spiritspirit—think Hemingway-esque, but more familyfriendly and more fun.

“We had an overarching vision of ‘camp.’ But from there, everything was collected. Very little was ordered.”

Blake Pike of No. 12 Interiors played a key role in shaping the lodge’s aesthetic and reveals that the design journey was less about adhering to a precise master plan and more about letting the space come together organically, through thrifting adventures, Colorado-centric creative adaptation, and serendipity. “We had an overarching vision of ‘camp.’ But from there, everything was collected. Very little was ordered,” Pike says. This approach is evident in every corner, where items sourced from secondhand shops, antique stores, and vintage markets bring a sense of history and loads of character.

Photo: Jesse Levine

SOURCING CHARACTER

While many Western lodges fixate on genre clichés and mass produced items, Taylor River Lodge’s interior focuses on object character and how it relates to the landscape. This oil painting evokes Taylor River and the canyon, but was found in a London antique shop.

Photo: Jesse Levine

WHISKEY’S FOR DRINKING

Set against a backdrop of historic photographs from Colorado’s early ranching and homesteading era, the bar in the Main Lodge invites lively conversation over old fashioneds or a local brew from Irwin Brewing Co. The lodge’s lighting design emphasizes the warm glow of lamps and sconces instead of relying on overhead fixtures, creating a cozy and inviting ambiance.

Photo: Simon Upton

“We often shop thrift, not where most people are going to shop to furnish a lodge.”

One of the most remarkable aspects of Taylor River Lodge is its eclectic assortment of furnishings and decor, each piece with a story to tell. The curtains in some cabins are crafted from 1930s grain sacks, lending an old-school feel to the interiors. A stack of antique kilim rugs was repurposed into upholstering for custom-made headboards. The lamps for the outdoor cabin lighting were pulled from longdecommissioned trains.

Pike’s approach to sourcing is unconventional. “We often shop thrift, not where most people are going to shop to furnish a lodge,” she explains. This keen eye for unique finds led her to an old weightlifting bench, which was transformed into a coffee table for the Main Lodge by covering it with a black bear skin—a perfect example of blending functionality with a rustic aesthetic.

Some pieces are even happy accidents. A shipment of wicker chairs from Florida intended for Eleven’s Bahama House—under renovation at the same time—was mistakenly shipped to Colorado. Rather than send the pieces back toward the Atlantic, they were adapted to the Rockies. Some chairs were painted army green. A grand peacock chair—the sort of fanned-back specimen found in Palm Beach sunrooms not touched since the Johnson Administration—was painted with stripes of brown, blue, white, and red to evoke Native American regalia. Magically, it all blends in the space.

Photos: Jesse Levine

THE RAINBOW ROOM OF THE ROYAL WULFF GUEST CABIN

In the early 20th century, a general store stood where Taylor River Lodge now resides, serving local ranchers and tourists—especially anglers drawn to the river’s renowned fishing. By 1949, six guest cabins, constructed from D-kits, were added. During a 2012 to 2015 renovation, these historic cabins were carefully preserved by insulating and encasing them in reclaimed timber, blending rustic charm with modern comforts.

Photo: Simon Upton

ELEVEN LIBRARIES

Every Eleven property features a rich collection of vintage and new books and magazines, as carefully selected as the furnishings. Shelves in Taylor River Lodge communal and guest quarters are filled with books intended to encourage readers at their own leisure to follow their literary instincts.

Photo: Jesse Levine

Photo: Simon Upton

Photo: Jesse Levine

“Custom hardware from local smith Blackstar Ironworks—such as screen door handles shaped like trout tails—reflects the lodge’s connection to its natural surroundings.”

Photos: Jesse Levine

Attention to detail extends to every aspect of the property. Antlers and horns sourced in Gunnison, framed old sporting magazine covers, dried and mounted planted specimens, and taxidermy pieces—used with mindful restraint—add to the lodge’s rustic ambience. Custom hardware from local smith Blackstar Ironworks—such as screen door handles shaped like trout tails—reflects the lodge’s connection to its natural surroundings. (Blackstar also crafted all the wader hooks and rod racks inside and outside the guest cabins.)

THE BATH HOUSE

While the Bath House stands among new structures on the property, its construction adheres to frontier building practices. It’s the only truly timberframed building on the compound, held together with heavy reclaimed barn beams joined with wooden pegs. The walls between the posts are finished with American clay. The impressive glass garage door is actually an airplane hangar door that was custom-made and then assembled on-site.

Photo: Alison White

RECLAIMED

Working with American Antique Lumber in Montrose, the renovation team used reclaimed timber from barns in Ohio dating back to the mid-1800s. This reclaimed wood now forms the exteriors, interiors, and flooring of all the buildings on the property.

Photo: Jesse Levine

“The idea is to get outside, so we didn’t want it to be overdecorated.”

It would be easy to pass a day sitting in the Main Lodge library breakfast nook or beside the fireplace. But our ultimate goal at Taylor River is to encourage guests to engage with the natural environment surrounding them. With activities like hatchet throwing and rib competitions, spacious outdoor areas perfect for large gatherings, and a pond for learning to cast a fly rod, the lodge offers a true mountain camp experience.

From its thoughtfully curated interiors to its seamless integration with the outdoors, Taylor River Lodge is a place where every detail has been considered, but none feel contrived. It’s a collection of stories and textures, inviting guests to slow down and soak in the mountain air in a space that feels like it’s been there forever.

Photo: Jesse Levine

BIENVENIDOS

BIENVENIDOS

THE END OF THE WORLD

Untamed beauty, isolation, and vastness envelop trout rivers like the Palena, Yelcho, Futaleufú, and Rosselot.

A UNIQUE SCENARIO

There are many river-lake transition zones to fish within driving or heli distance from our Chile lodges.

AND THE INS OUTS

OF FLY FISHING RIVER-LAKE SYSTEMS IN CHILE

INTRODUCTION

North American anglers often find themselves intrigued by the prevalence and importance of riverlake systems in South America.

Unlike in the U.S., where our fishing experiences are heavily influenced by dams and the tailwater fisheries they create, natural lakes with free-flowing rivers entering and exiting are a rare and coveted find for those visiting. In fact, the Yellowstone River, flowing out of Yellowstone Lake, stands alone as the only undammed river in the Lower 48.

At Rio Palena Lodge and the two properties that make up Martín Pescador Lodge, the river-lake system plays a central role in Eleven’s fly fishing programs. While this is only

one of our many angling scenarios, it’s an incredibly unique one and worth studying as a stand-alone case for conditions and techniques. These inlets and outlets are not just home to impressive rainbow and brown trout; they also host a dynamic and everchanging environment rich in insects, baitfish, and migratory species. Guides are experts at reading these seasonal shifts, but as an angler, understanding these cycles can greatly enhance your fishing experience.

STREAMER EATER

The average fish in this area would be large by most standards. But then there are truly large trout potentially available on any cast.

In the Southern Hemisphere, spring fishing aligns with Thanksgiving in the Northern Hemisphere, offering anglers a spectacular anadromous fish feast.

Many Chilean rivers are home to salmon species, primarily chinook, introduced years ago. As the spring flows intensify, these salmon fry (1 to 1.5 inches long) and smolt (3 to 4 inches long) begin their downstream journey toward the sea.

River bocas (mouths) and inlets become prime spots where trout gorge on this migration buffet. We fish with small fry patterns, much like those used in Alaska, and three-inch streamers that mimic the smolt. In open water, you might witness a

dramatic explosion near a river mouth—likely a large trout chasing smolt. A quick cast with a white, flashy streamer to that area almost always results in a strike.

Anglers often find success using a sturdy 6-weight rod paired with a floating line. For the moving waters just upstream from the lake, at the river mouth, and at every drop-off, a rod rigged with a sink tip is ideal. (And for those visiting Eleven Angling lodges, all fishing tackle is provided.)

SUMMERTIME EELING

In late December, a captivating event unfolds in the transition zones around inlets and outlets. Small fish known as puyen (pronounced pu-yay) begin to gather in these areas.

Comparable to whitebait in New Zealand, puyen are not true eels. Their elongated, slender bodies resemble eels, which is how they earned the nickname. These fish can range from tiny one-inch juveniles to full-grown adults over six inches long. As juveniles, puyen often form large schools, thousands of three-inch fish banding together for safety in numbers. These schools reliably gather in the same spots each year, and the trout are aware of where and when to find them. While it’s not an all-day event, hitting a blitz of big trout attacking panicked puyen is bound to be a highlight of your trip. Eleven guides craft custom-tied fly patterns specifically for this purpose, as imitations of puyen are not readily available in fly shops.

A PLACE FOR AMBUSH

Predatory rainbow and brown trout stage here and aggressively feed on downriver migrating salmon fry and smolt, as well as the local puyen and other baitfish.

THE THRILL OF VICTORY

An Eleven guest and guide experience the high of successfully bringing a hefty Patagonian fish to hand.

RUNNING LAPS

Sometimes guides will motor upstream to a lake, drift a third of a mile through the outlet, then lap back, doing this several times. It’s a great way to land fish on streamers in areas with high concentrations of fish, all of them voracious streamer eaters.

From New Year’s through January, the eagerly awaited dragonfly hatch comes into full swing.

Before this time, fishing dragonfly nymph patterns around reedcovered shorelines and weedy shallows is highly productive. A dry-dropper rig works wonders, keeping the dropper fly in the strike zone consistently. Casting near the reeds, where the water depth ranges from five to seven feet, and into the potholes in the weeds, is both fun and effective—a technique the guides have mastered.

When adult dragonflies begin to hatch, our focus shifts to dry dragonfly imitations. Some flies are crafted to be realistic, while others are oversized chubbies or Fat Alberts. The chubbies and Fat Alberts not only cast more easily than the realistic patterns but also offer a better hook-up rate. A typical day at Martín Pescador’s Rio Yelcho Lodge might start with breakfast, followed by a short boat ride a mile

upriver to Lago Yelcho. Occasionally, the guides will slow down at the outlet to check for puyen action before heading to the lake, bordered by miles of reed-covered shoreline.

It’s common to see trout leaping into the air, aggressively snatching or knocking down dragonflies. The technique used here is simple: cast 35 to 45 feet toward the edge of the reeds, let the fly sit for a few seconds like a bass popper, then start twitching it. Strikes usually come from the reed edge or within six feet of it. Two anglers can fish simultaneously, and with the visual hits, misses, and near-constant action, it’s sure to be a memorable day. Rainbows and browns here average 17 to 21 inches, with larger fish spotted daily. And no matter where you look, the scenery is just as breathtaking as the fishing.

OPTIONS NONSTOP ACTION

Eleven guests can bring their own flies from the Northern Hemisphere. Our guides also provide all the necessary flies.

A nice brown landed on a Fat Albert, a large terrestrial which works well in lakes and rivers. Fish here feed aggressively, making for memorable eats.

RIGGED FOR THE MISSION

Eleven provides all guests with top-of-the-line fly fishing and wading equipment.

IDEAL TROUT HUNTING GROUNDS

Here, anglers cast in a shallow bay lined with reeds and spotted with weed beds, a spot where guides can row, wind drift, and cover lots of water.

THE REMAINDER OF THE SEASON

As the dragonfly hatch tapers off in February, seasoned anglers know the value of targeting the inlets and outlets for the rest of the season.

This classic approach to streamer fishing involves working fast-sinking or sink tip lines near inlet drop-offs, along cliffs, and over large boulder-strewn shorelines. These areas are prime territory for landing massive brown and rainbow trout with olive, black, or white streamers, as well as other inventive patterns crafted by guides. At the inlets, guides will row upstream before drifting back down over the drop-offs, while at the outlets, they reverse the process, starting from the lake and drifting into the river.

Streamer fishing can be highly productive and is often a go-to at the beginning of the day. Many of our river floats start on a lake and quickly transition to a 10-mile, free-flowing river trip. That first half mile can be red-hot on streamers. Then, shifting to a single dry terrestrial or a dry-dropper rig around the inlets and outlets can be

highly productive. It is quite common to fish chubbies, Fat Alberts, black crickets, and hoppers for the rest of the float—a great combination.

Understanding the varied techniques for river-lake systems is crucial, but all the strategies covered here share one key element: casting. Fly fishing in Chilean Patagonia demands precision with 6- and 7-weight rods, larger flies, and sometimes a sink tip line. While casting on bright, sunny days is a pleasure, the notorious Patagonian wind can quickly change the game. Practicing casting skills and taking a lesson to prepare for these conditions will prove invaluable. Strengthening casting muscles and honing the ability to handle big fish with big flies will serve you well, not just here, but wherever your fly fishing adventures take you.

DIEGO & TRINI

Q&A WITH RIO PALENA LODGE

MANAGER DIEGO BEVACQUA AND CHILE EXPERIENCE PLANNER TRINI ERRÁZURIZ

Tucked away in Chile’s lush, mountainous Los Lagos Region, Eleven’s Rio Palena Lodge serves as a hub for legendary Patagonian trout fishing and equally noteworthy heli-skiing, mountain biking, whitewater rafting, and outdoor adventure. The property has a distinct energy, shaped by the people, culture, and natural surroundings that makes it truly special. While the lodge’s infrastructure and and collection of flying, driving, and floating vessels enable guests to engage with the area’s recreational offerings at the highest level, it’s the people inside the lodge and those facilitating outdoor experiences that bring Rio Palena to life.

Chilean couple Diego Bevacqua and Trini Errázuriz call the Palena area both their workplace and year-round home. We caught up with them during the shoulder season to learn what makes Rio Palena a beacon of Chilean hospitality in one of the planet’s most ecologically pristine and recreationally diverse landscapes.

QWHAT IS YOUR BACKGROUND, AND WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO ELEVEN?

Diego: I grew up in Santiago, Chile, with a Chilean mother and a Swedish father who inspired me with his fluency in five languages. After meeting Trini through a mutual university friend, we completed our degrees and embarked on a two-year adventure to Australia and New Zealand, aiming to improve our English. Returning to Chile, we pursued careers in hospitality and tourism, leading us to join Eleven. We worked at the company’s properties in Colorado, The Bahamas, and Iceland before finally settling back home in Chile, at Rio Palena. Although it wasn’t part of the plan, I believe fate brought us here.

I’ve always been drawn to adrenaline-fueled sports like skiing, endurance riding, and mountain biking, but in recent years, I’ve taken up fly fishing. Though still a beginner, I find it offers a peaceful way to appreciate the landscape and engage with the natural surroundings.

Trini: I’m from Buin, a rural town south of Santiago. My family is very closeknit, and we gather often. I studied events management and here at the lodge I’m doing events with each group. I love dancing (I’ve practiced Zumba since childhood), skiing, traveling, and socializing with friends. After our adventure in Australia and New Zealand, we discovered Eleven, and five years later, we’re still here. I truly love living on this little piece of land in Patagonia.

“I truly love living on this little piece of land in Patagonia.”

When we’re not at the lodge, we’re outdoors, exploring new roads and surroundings. During the off-season, we travel and discover new places. From Easter Island to Portugal, we’ve explored a lot together, and it’s been incredible.

QWHAT IS IT LIKE LIVING IN THIS REMOTE CORNER OF PATAGONIA?

Living in Patagonia is a world apart from city life in Santiago, offering a blend of natural beauty, isolation, and deeprooted traditions. The lifestyle here feels like stepping back in time—many locals live without modern conveniences and must travel hours on foot or horseback to reach the nearest village. Rich in gaucho traditions like horse racing, rodeos, and communal asados, the culture brings neighboring villages together to celebrate and share meals. This connection to nature and community is something we deeply cherish.

“In Patagonia, those who hurry are wasting their time.”

While we miss the proximity to family, friends, and the conveniences of city life, the warmth and kindness of the local people more than make up for it. The saying, “In Patagonia, those who hurry are wasting their time” perfectly captures the slower pace of life we’ve come to love. Our connection with the land, animals, and community has enriched our lives in ways we never imagined. Despite the challenges presented by the location, the positivity and welcoming nature of the people make every day special. We feel it’s our responsibility to share this unique Patagonian character with our guests, ensuring they leave with memories that are truly one-of-a-kind and distinct to this region.

QWHAT IS SPECIAL ABOUT THE LODGE’S LOCATION?

WHAT DO YOU FIND THE MOST COMPELLING ABOUT THE SURROUNDING LANDSCAPE?

The landscape here is breathtaking, and exploring such untouched places is a rare privilege. We are surrounded by many world-renowned reserves, monuments, and national parks. We are the only major company operating in this area with such a high level of product, which makes it particularly special. Few people know about it or have the extensive experience and knowledge of the region, or the access that we do, whether through helicopter, boat,

vehicle, bike, or horse use. The location wasn’t chosen for ease but for the opportunity it offers our team to provide guests with truly unique experiences.

While tourism in this area is likely to grow in the coming years, for now, we remain pioneers, offering adventures that others simply can’t match. Our diverse and knowledgeable team, including our American fly fishing guides, enriches the entire experience.

QHOW DOES CHILEAN CULTURE SHAPE THE EXPERIENCE AT RIO PALENA LODGE, AND WHAT DO YOU HOPE GUESTS TAKE AWAY FROM THEIR STAY?

Chilean hospitality is rooted in authenticity. Making guests feel comfortable and special isn’t just our job; it’s who we are. Whether you’re visiting a Chilean home or staying at the lodge, you’ll experience genuine care, especially in remote areas like Patagonia. Here, a simple request for directions might turn into an invitation to share maté and sopaipillas or enjoy an asado . This spontaneous exchange of culture and food is mirrored in the lodge experience, where we balance careful planning and foresight with a healthy dose of letting each day unfold naturally to create the best possible outcome.

We welcome guests as if they were entering our own home, cultivating an inviting atmosphere that they truly appreciate. We showcase our culture, particularly through cuisine and daily life. Guests love being immersed in stunning, untouched nature while still enjoying modern amenities. Whether exploring rivers, lakes, and glaciers or participating in local

activities like cooking classes and pisco tastings, every experience is tailored to reveal something unique. The asado during each stay is always a highlight, and whether guests come for world-class fly fishing or peace and quiet, they leave with unforgettable memories.

“We balance careful planning and foresight with a healthy dose of letting each day unfold naturally to create the best possible outcome.”

YA MON

ISLANDS OF SONG

White sand flats, Caribbean waters, and sight fishing to the Gray Ghost.

BAHAMIAN RHAPSODY

STRIKING A BALANCE ON HARBOUR ISLAND

ERIC KALLEN

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The Bahamas have been synonymous with bonefishing since anglers began stalking the “Gray Ghost” in the 1950s and 1960s. The list of fly fishing legends who have come to these islands searching for bonefish is long and distinguished. Lee Wulff, Lefty Kreh, and Stu Apte have all plied the waters surrounding well-known destinations on Andros and Abaco Island with fly rods. These spots offer a host of worldclass fishing lodges geared toward serious anglers, with sights set on a bonefish trip.

What may be a bucket-list trip for hardcore anglers may have a different appeal to a couple looking for a luxurious getaway with friends. That’s how my wife and I found ourselves disembarking from a water taxi onto Harbour Island’s Government Dock in The Bahamas. As the main entry point for visitors to Harbour Island, Government Dock is a busy place. Crates of goods being offloaded from boats, tourists arriving from the international airport on North Eleuthera, and Bahamians who live and work on the island—known to locals as “Briland”—all share the same space.

Our hosts from Eleven greeted us warmly and whisked us away on a brief golf cart ride to our accommodations at Bahama House. Harbour Island, though small, primarily relies on golf carts for transportation, making it easy to navigate the streets of Dunmore Town—the island’s sole town and one of the oldest settlements in The Bahamas. Pastel-colored New Englandstyle houses and flower-lined streets offer an elegant and laid-back vibe. Dotted with high-end boutiques and outstanding restaurants, Dunmore Town has plenty to offer those who visit under the guise of pure leisure.

Nestled in Harbour Island’s heart, Eleven’s Bahama House stands as a boutique hotel offering an intimate experience with all the amenities. The space is quaint and offers eleven well-appointed and tastefully decorated rooms around a courtyard filled with palm trees, tropical gardens, and private sitting areas. At the center of the four buildings that house guest rooms, some dating to the 1800s, is a freshwater swimming pool and custom-made tiki bar that provide the perfect setting for on-site relaxation.

My wife and I made the trip with the intention of a few days of relaxation and revelry with friends...but we had also agreed that I would take a few trips out to the flats around the island for some fishing. When people discuss bonefishing in The Bahamas, they typically refer to the more popular destinations on the west side of Andros or Abaco Island, where you can find six-, eight-, or even 10-pound bonefish. Seldom is Harbour Island—best known for its beautiful pink sand beaches—compared to these storied fishing grounds. However, Bahama House was perhaps selected for its piscatorial undertones for those anglers hoping to strike an oft-elusive balance between fishing and enjoying life on land with family and friends.

Chad Pike, Eleven’s founder, is a worldclass fisherman and conservationist who was recently awarded the Lefty Kreh Award for Lifetime Achievement in Conservation by Bonefish & Tarpon Trust. Given the brand’s deep ties to world-class fly fishing, I knew this trip would offer plenty of opportunities for some great bonefishing. My goal was to balance time spent with our spouses and non-fishing friends and time spent chasing bonefish. The plan was to take a few half-day trips, leaving in the morning and returning after lunch. After a quick shower, I’d seamlessly integrate into that day’s leisure activities without missing a beat. Win-win.

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The beer of The Bahamas, Kalik is considered a national treasure. Since the late 1980s, this has been the choice beverage of islanders and anglers alike.

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Dunmore Town is easily walkable and completely car-free. Many enjoy riding by golf cart or bike to explore the island’s eclectic restaurants and attractions.

Photo: Eric Kallen

“Bahama House was perhaps selected for its piscatorial undertones for those anglers hoping to strike an oft-elusive balance between fishing and enjoying life on land with family and friends.”

One of the great things about pursuing bonefish around Harbour Island is that some of the best fishing is very close to the island. There is no need for lengthy runs out to remote stretches of water; the flats off of Dunmore Town offer great bonefishing. The bonefish around Harbour Island can be very spooky, and to be successful, anglers must rely on stealth and precise casting.

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The Bahama House tiki bar.

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A classic Harbour Island scene.

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A perfect day to pole along ideal bonefish habitat.

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From a family of guiding legends, Patrick Roberts (a.k.a. “Bonefish Patrick”) is a third-generation guide on Bahamian waters.

On our first full day on the island, we assembled on Government Dock equipped with our 9-weight fly rods and a cooler of Kalik—the beloved local beer that our hosts had thoughtfully provided. After a late night at Bahama House’s tiki bar, I was grateful for my polarized sunglasses, which tempered the glare of the bright Caribbean sun. Our guide for the day, Patrick Roberts, is part of Harbour Island’s bonefishing royalty. A third-generation guide, Roberts and his family have navigated the waters around Harbour Island for decades. His uncle “Bonefish Joe” Cleare was one of the most well-known and well-respected guides in The Bahamas before his passing at age 79 in 2013.

“It was easy to become immersed in the area’s natural beauty as we passed through the turquoise water, distracted only by an occasional sea turtle diving under the surface as our boat passed by.”

It’s always a great moment when the Gray Ghost comes to hand.

As we loaded our gear onto Roberts’ skiff, I formally introduced myself to our guide, who had waited patiently as we made the short trip to the dock from Bahama House. Our late arrival did not diminish the enthusiasm that “Bonefish Patrick” displayed as we untied his lines and headed out for a short ride to the flats between Harbour Island and North Eleuthera.

It was easy to become immersed in the area’s natural beauty as we passed through the turquoise water, distracted only by an occasional sea turtle diving under the surface as our boat passed by. With Harbour Island within sight, I could easily keep my bearings as we navigated between the small mangrove-filled islands and coral formations that marked the approaching flats.

As Roberts slowed the boat and climbed onto the poling platform, I grabbed my fly rod and took a position on the boat’s bow. The flats surrounding the boat were shallow, with hard sand and swaying turtle grass visible below the water’s surface. Part of the challenge inherent in catching bonefish is that you must see them; blind-casting is rarely successful. The bonefish is well hidden and stealthy with its silver and gray coloration. Its deeply forked tail and powerful, streamlined body allow it to move in explosive bursts across flats, making placing your fly in front of a moving fish challenging.

leans into the pole to position the skiff for the angler to make the most effective cast.

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Spotting and stalking feeding bonefish on a hard flat, which makes for easy wading.

With my fly rod in one hand and a tan Crazy Charlie in the other, I searched desperately for the signs of a cruising bonefish or, with luck, a tail protruding through the surface. As an infrequent bonefisherman, I find that the harder I look, the less chance I have of seeing the fish. Intent stares are far less productive than a soft focus when looking for the shimmering scales of the Gray Ghost.

Lulled into a trance by the boat’s gentle rocking, I was startled by Roberts’ whispered command: “There they are. Bones, three o’clock, 30 yards out.” Unable to spot

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Bonefish Patrick

“A small, deserted island located north of Harbour Island, Man Island offers pristine beaches and a beautiful setting for an afternoon barbecue.”

the bonefish, I tried desperately to remember where three o’clock was on the clock face, a challenge for the iPhone generation. Quickly realigning, I dropped my fly into the water and delivered what I thought was a perfect shot.

Through Roberts’ thick Bahamian accent, I quickly learned the outcome of my blind cast. “Ah man, you spooked ’em. You hit ’em on the head,” he lamented with a polite chuckle before getting back to work, scanning the waters with his well-trained eye. Fortunately, after spending 30 minutes on the bow, my eyes adjusted and I started to

make out the silhouettes of approaching bonefish, allowing me to fine-tune my cast.

As the morning progressed, the tide dropped and we switched gears, pulling on our boots to wade out into the marsh. Roberts moved swiftly across the backcountry flats, his bare feet seemingly impervious to the coral and spiny sea urchins scattered across the seabed. Switching to a brown mantis shrimp pattern, I quickly found a hungry bonefish that turned on my fly.

Responding to Roberts’ call of “strip, strip, strip,” I felt a strong tug on my line and

a satisfying bend in my rod as the bonefish struck my fly—hard. I miraculously remembered to keep my rod tip down and strip-set the hook. With the hook secured, the bonefish made a run that quickly had me into my backing. Under Roberts’ tutelage, I landed a beautiful Bahamian bonefish, the perfect ending to a fine day on the water.

With fly rods stowed and cold Kaliks in hand, we sat back and relaxed as Roberts headed the boat to Man Island so my fishing partner and I could rendezvous with our friends and spouses. A small, deserted island

located north of Harbour Island, Man Island offers pristine beaches and a beautiful setting for an afternoon barbecue.

We approached Man Island and saw our friends spread out in beach chairs, lounging by the water and enjoying themselves. We said our goodbyes to Bonefish Patrick and dutifully disembarked from his boat to join our group on the beach, equipped with a few good stories of our bonefish adventures and ready to create some memories of the non-fishing kind.

Eric Kallen is a freelance writer, award-winning photographer, and avid fly fisherman. His writing and photographs have appeared in numerous sporting and outdoor publications, including Gray’s Sporting Journal, Tail Fly Fishing Magazine, Strung Sporting Journal, The Pointing Dog Journal, Versatile Hunting Dog Magazine, and The Virginia Sportsman Magazine. He lives in Charlottesville, VA when he isn’t out looking for his next adventure.

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The pool at Bahama House provides a refreshing sanctuary.

KVEÐJUR

KVEÐJUR

LAND OF FIRE AND ICE

Against the backdrop of volcanoes and glaciers, expect to meet highly evolved Arctic quarries—salmon and trout— equipped with distinct fighting abilities.

Photo: Bryan Gregson

Eleven was born with a vision that synergizes wild locations with world-class angling and skiing. These activities had been kept separate, until now. In May 2024, Eleven’s angling and ski teams combined forces to put the finishing touches on a program that we beta tested for years.

This program combines the best of our Deplar Farm heli-skiing program with our premier sea-run brown trout angling program to create our new flagship Ski to Sea

Experience.This is for the discerning traveler who is passionate about both sports, or the novice in search of new adventures that break the traditional mold. There is a sublime transition in swapping the buzz and adrenaline of heli-skiing the Troll Peninsula for the fluvial zen of casting into the Húsey for browns. Perhaps first, a glass of Bordeaux and a slice of serrano by the fire?

Welcome to Eleven.

A guide swaps ski gear for fishing gear at our Airstream base camp on the

Húsey River.

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DATE: Day 1 5/8/2024

6:30 AM

We awakened early, fueling ourselves with a delicious breakfast of blueberry pancakes prepared by the Deplar Farm chef.

9:00 AM

We were geared up and ready, boarding the helicopter under clear, windless skies. The forecast promised “spring sweet” snow conditions by 10:00.

10:00 AM

The pilot dropped us a few ridges south of the lodge, about an eight-minute flight. As we stepped out, we were met by spectacular topography in every direction. The ski terrain in Iceland is a breathtaking blend of vast, untouched landscapes and dramatic, varied topography, offering a unique experience for both seasoned and adventurous skiers. And in our case, skiing near the lodge means standing atop volcanic mountains that rise sharply from the sea, separated with deep fjords. The views from the top are nothing short of mindblowing, with panoramas of the Arctic Ocean, rugged coastlines, and remote valleys.

Our guides expertly considered the slope aspects, starting with the south-facing runs to catch the best corn snow, and moving to others as the day warmed. They offered our crew a combination of routes, from challenging steeps to smooth cruisers, catering to different skill levels.

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Happy skiers on their way to an epic morning.

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Forty miles south of the Arctic Circle, skiers find sun-softened corn snow.

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An Eleven team member begins a descent. Runs are long with incredible scenery.

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Door-to-door service. The helicopter shuttles guests between Deplar Farm, ski runs, and the streamside Airstream base camp.

Our first run began on slightly crunchy snow, but after about 15 turns, it transitioned into smooth, soft snow—neither slushy nor sticky. We completed seven laps, each descending about 3,000 vertical feet. The scenery was breathtaking, and the vast expanse of skiable terrain was awe-inspiring. As the day progressed, our guides decided it was time to switch gears, and the helicopter whisked us away to our fishing destination, a quick 15-minute flight away.

4:00 PM

The heli picked us up after our last run and carried us to Eleven’s Airstream base camp, strategically set up near the Húseyjarkvísl River—what we call the Húsey. The base camp was a festive spot for a break, with a firepit, snacks, wine, and local beer. We swapped skis and poles for rods and reels, and met with fishing guides Rock and Valli. Once the guides had our gear sorted, we headed to the river.

4:45 PM

The technique to land sea-run browns is fairly simple and similar to steelhead and Atlantic salmon fishing. We made casts of 35 to 55 feet at a 45-degree angle downstream. The fly, hovering a foot below the surface, swung across the river, seeking to intersect with and entice oceangoing brown trout.

We had action immediately. Almost every pool held fish, and in addition to our three- to six-pound searun browns, we landed several resident brown trout and even one Atlantic salmon.

With the daylight stretching toward Midnight Sun mode, we fished until 9:30 PM. By the end of the day, we estimated that together we had caught around 10 large sea-runs.

10:00 PM

We wrapped up the day back at Deplar Farm with some well-deserved celebration and countless high fives. The day was so packed with unforgettable moments that I must have added 300 photos to my iPhone without even trying. Between the skiing, fishing, Airstreams, firepit, and sharing stories over hor d’oeuvres, the evening culminated in a world-class dinner of Icelandic cod, freshly baked bread with salty butter, and a crisp white wine. We finished the night with a relaxing soak in Deplar’s geothermally heated pool.

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A sea-run brown trout prior to release, landed about 200 yards from the Airstream base camp.

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Tip: Don’t call them “ponies” around the locals! Despite their size, these are horses in every sense, known for their strength and endurance, as well as their intelligence and curiosity.

NO: DATE: Day 2 5/9/2024

6:30 AM

We kicked off the day with a hearty breakfast— four fried eggs, bacon, toast, and a glass of fresh orange juice. With the demanding nature of our multi-sport itinerary, fueling up was essential. The weather held steady, just as perfect as the day before. While fly fishing thrives in cloudy or even rainy conditions, clear skies are a skier’s best friend.

9:30 AM

By 9:30, we were in the A-Star helicopter, a time chosen to ensure the best snow conditions. For the next five hours, we explored vast bowls, sweeping ridge lines, and some tight, adrenaline-pumping chutes.

2:00 PM

By now, the snow began to soften, and the burn in my legs signaled it was time to switch gears. Off to the river we went.

Once again, it was time for a quick boot swap, followed by lunch around the base camp firepit, all in the signature Eleven “no down days” vibe. This afternoon, we decided to skip a lift in the guide’s truck and instead strolled just 100 yards to the banks of the Húsey to cast our lines.

3:00 PM

The glacial- and spring-fed Húsey River is among Iceland’s hidden gems, particularly revered by anglers for its clarity. The river itself is relatively short, but it meanders gracefully through the valley, creating a series of bends, pools, and runs that are ideal for fishing. We found ourselves at a series of horseshoe bends where the deeper water and ledges were teeming with fish. We had strikes on our very first casts. Across the river, a group of Icelandic horses meandered up to the water’s edge, watching our every move.

We caught sea-runs by swinging the fly across the current and adding a quick, subtle retrieve that gave the fly a seductive little twitch. With no trees to snag our backcasts and the gently sloping grassy banks making for easy walking and wading, it was a fly fisher’s paradise.

11:00 PM

Our commute back to Deplar Farm was graced by a glowing sunset at 11 pm. Dinner was land-raised Atlantic salmon, served with a generous helping of freshly baked bread. The night wrapped up with more soaking in the pool, a visit to the swim-up cocktail bar, and swapping stories with other guests.

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Big mountains and big turns.

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These sea-run browns are fresh from the salt, less than a few miles into the river system.

The Glaumbær Bridge, named for a nearby turf farmhouse compound dating to 847 AD, spans the Húsey River. Being able to cross the bridge doubles angling access.

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Retired commercial fishing boats from another era.

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A chrome sea-run brown prior to release.

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After-dinner plunge in Deplar’s geothermally heated pool.

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Perfect ski conditions and terrain surround Deplar Farm.

DATE: Day 3 5/10/2024

7:00 AM

The weather took a slight turn, with morning clouds rolling in. The weather in Iceland can of course be unpredictable, with sudden changes that can affect visibility and snow conditions, especially when you’re only 40 miles south of the Arctic Circle. However, as our trip demonstrated, when the weather is clear, the skiing experience is unparalleled, with long days of sunshine in the spring and early summer allowing for extended runs.

9:00 AM

With the morning cloud cover, we decided to switch up our routine, starting the day with fishing instead. The change only heightened the experience—if anything, the fishing was even better than the first two days. As the afternoon sun finally broke through, we were back in the helicopter, heading for the mountains.

7:00 PM

As the day drew to a close, we hit what skiers dream of—hero snow, perfectly timed with the sky turning a brilliant shade of orange in the west. A quick call on the radio to the kitchen staff to let them know we might be a little late bought us a few more guilt-free runs. The final descent of the trip came into view, with Deplar Farm just in the distance.

8:00 PM

We were replenished with a meal of Arctic char apps, lamb strip-loin with potato purée, and an apple-banana salted caramel roll, all topped off with a taste of Graham’s 10 Year Tawny Port, which brought us back to our senses.

Our entire crew—ski and angling team alike— were completely fished out, skied out (cue the Fire and Ice massage!), but somehow, it never felt like too much. With data in hand and logistics noted, we were ready to bring Eleven’s Ski to Sea Experience to anyone ready to embrace the thrill of Iceland’s untamed wilderness—where the mountains meet the sea and adventure knows no bounds.

HUNTING SEA

SEA MONSTERS

THE FIGHT TO BANISH OPEN-NET PEN SALMON FARMS IN ICELAND

Photo: Veiga Grétarsdóttir

O n a remote finger of Iceland’s green and rocky Westfjords sits the fishing village of Bíldudalur, home to The Icelandic Sea Monster Museum. Arnarfjörður, the inlet cradling this community of 243, is Iceland’s heartland for sea monster sightings. The museum houses dioramas showcasing sea monsters in their natural habitats, atmospherically lit to evoke the eerie depths of the ocean floor or the shadowed beach at night. An interactive map meticulously charts eyewitness reports of monster sightings throughout the region. Speak of the museum’s

exhibits as mere folklore, and you might invite a passionate defense from a local, eager to recount their own encounters with one of the local fabled beasts—the fjörulalli beaver-wolf, the fearsome merman hafmaður , the shell-armored and sharp-clawed skeljaskrímsli, or the dreaded razortoothed faxaskrímsli seahorse. While the sea monsters of Arnarfjörður may seem like legend, the true horrors plaguing Icelandic waters today are man-made—genetically engineered, farm-raised salmon.

CULTIVATING DISASTER

The Westfjords are the epicenter of Iceland’s commercial salmon farming industry. One open-net pen may hold up to 200,000 fish.

Photo: Veiga Grétarsdóttir

Farmed salmon raised in open-net pens exhibit traits as gruesome as their folkloric counterparts—bodies riddled with crustaceous lice, melting flesh, shredded fins, crooked spines, and a host of other disturbing maladies. After more than a decade of allowing Norwegian commercial aquaculture operations to raise “franken-salmon” along pristine coastlines, wild Atlantic salmon now face potential extinction in Icelandic waterways. The topic has generated debate among the Icelandic public (and international conservation community) as to

what the fate of farmed fish and wild Atlantic salmon in Iceland will be.

In spite of the country’s contemporary global reputation as a pristine ecotourism destination, Icelanders have at times participated in the same questionable natural resources management practices as many other societies. Drive across Iceland today and you’ll be hard pressed to spot a tree. That’s because Viking settlers clear-cut forests for charcoal, tools, houses, and ships. Reforestation was impeded by the

harsh environment and the introduction of sheep grazing, which inhibits growth. Like the vanished walrus (hunted for ivory) or the disappeared great auk (hunted for consumption), the wild Atlantic salmon now teeters on the brink of extinction in Iceland—another casualty of unsustainable practices.

As a keystone species, salmon have a ripple effect on the people and wildlife that depend on them. Globally, the numbers of wild Atlantic salmon have dropped from 8–10 million in the 1970s to 3–4 million today. Twenty years ago, a million salmon spawned in Norway’s rivers. Today scientists estimate 500,000 fish now spawn there annually. In 2023, Scotland designated Atlantic salmon an endangered species.

“Iceland is one of the last great places for wild Atlantic salmon,” said Elvar Friðriksson, program director of the North Atlantic Salmon Fund (NASF), a group dedicated to conserving the species across its historic range in Iceland and Greenland, with affiliate organizations in nine countries. “We have an incredible number of rivers for a small island and we have good trout and salmon fishing. We are among the few places left with these fisheries and we need to start making smart choices today. To most people, Atlantic salmon is a piece of flesh in a supermarket. They don’t realize what’s behind this product.”

The species has arrived at its current predicament through a combination of biological predisposition and policy missteps of the 20th and 21st centuries. The species first became a conservation target in Iceland in the mid-1980s when commercial fishing escalated.

Atlantic salmon have roamed the North Atlantic since the end of the last Ice Age, roughly 10,000

(SEAHORSE MONSTER)

Like other sea monsters in Icelandic folklore, these creatures were seen as harbingers of doom or dangerous natural forces. The appearance of the seahorse’s mane at the water’s surface was believed to precede storms, shipwrecks, or natural disasters. Sea monsters embodied fear of the unknown, particularly the ocean, which was crucial for fishing and travel but also a source of death and destruction.

years ago. Their rivers of origin stretch from Maine to Iceland, and from the Iberian Peninsula to Russia. Each year, fish from more than 2,000 river systems return to the same two summer feeding grounds, gathering either off Greenland’s west coast or around the Faroe Islands. Through the 19th and 20th centuries, demand for salmon increased and these feeding grounds became hot spots for commercial fishing. Nets from Greenlandic, Icelandic, and Faroese boats were thrown indiscriminately, meaning an entire river’s salmon stock could theoretically be

HISTORIC RANGE OF ATLANTIC SALMON

Atlantic salmon spend most of their lives at sea, feeding on a variety of species. Their primary feeding grounds are located in the North Atlantic Ocean, off the coasts of Greenland and the Faroe Islands. These areas are rich in plankton, small fish, and crustaceans, which provide essential nutrients for salmon growth. During their feeding migrations, salmon often travel long distances, crossing vast expanses of ocean.

Courtesy of Ó Maoiléidigh, N., White, J., Hansen, L. P., Jacobsen, J. A., Potter, T., Russell, I., Reddin, D., et al. 2018. Fifty years of marine tag recoveries from Atlantic salmon. ICES Cooperative Research Report No. 343. 121 pp. http://doi.org/10.17895/ ices.pub.4542

wiped out with just one net. Over 2,500 tons of salmon were pulled from Greenlandic waters between 1988 and 1990 alone. High seas fishing, combined with heavy net fishing in Iceland’s glacial rivers, impacted the entire Atlantic salmon population. By the 1970s and into the 1980s, countries on both sides of the Atlantic reported poor returns on spawning rivers.

Some suspect the increased demand was driven by new sushi practices. Traditional Japanese sushi making did not incorporate salmon, as it was not part of the country’s diet or immediate marine ecosystem. But in the 1980s, the use of salmon in sushi became an overnight standard pushed by a Norwegian seafood campaign. The resulting enthusiasm for salmon exacerbated pre-existing pressure on wild populations.

While salmon had been a staple in the diets of a very small portion of the world living around northern seas, it suddenly became “essential” to

the entire global seafood market. The northern commercial fishermen catching these salmon to meet consumer demand didn’t see themselves as part of an unsustainable practice, but rather as part of strong fishing lineages core to the cultural identities of the North Atlantic.

Orri Vigfússon was an Icelandic businessman, conservationist, and avid angler who had witnessed the collapse of the herring fishery during his youth in a fishing village. He observed the plummeting salmon returns on Iceland’s famous rivers and went directly to the source. Meeting with Icelandic and Greenlandic commercial fishermen—sometimes even boarding their boats at sea—he brokered agreements to decrease or eliminate the commercial salmon catch while simultaneously compensating fishermen and transitioning them to more sustainable fisheries. His novel approach worked and resulted in the founding of NASF. Total catch in these regions fell sharply or ended

ORRI VIGFÚSSON, ICELANDIC

BUSINESSMAN AND VANGUARD SALMON CONSERVATIONIST

Vigfússon received numerous awards for his salmon conservation efforts, among them medals of honor from the Icelandic, Danish, and French governments, as well as recognition from Time Magazine and The Economist . In 2007, Vigfússon received one of the most respected environmental prizes in the world from Prince Charles, the Goldman Environmental Prize, for his battle to save endangered species.

Photo: North Atlantic Salmon Fund

altogether, saving hundreds of thousands of salmon across the North Atlantic. As a result, Orri is credited with saving Atlantic salmon from extinction across the entire Global North.

However, Orri Vigfússon’s work to save Icelandic salmon was far from over. New threats and challenges arose, again decimating wild salmon stock. The big offenders this time were industrial plants polluting major spawning rivers and commercial open-net pen fish farms, owned by Norwegian corporations. Vigfússon died in 2017, and to carry on his work, NASF was revitalized.

While the industries dumping waste into rivers were brought to heel through regulation, Norwegian commercial salmon farming was another kind of beast entirely, a deeply rooted one, it turned out. To understand the entanglement of commercial salmon farming in Iceland, one must turn back the page to the 1960s, in Norway. At that time along Norway’s coasts, a new kind of aquaculture was born. Instead of catching wild salmon en masse, farmers could manage the supply and influence the demand, supplying the global market and, in theory, supporting rural fjord communities.

Salmon farm megacorporations—usually based in Norway or Canada—have in the late 20th and 21st centuries expanded to coastlines along Scotland, Iceland, Washington State, Chile, New Zealand, and other locations. The practice spread to Iceland in the early ‘60s. At that time, the Icelandic Salmon

Dispatch Station, owned by the government, started producing salmon smolts (juveniles) near Reykjavík. The smolts were released into the ocean, and the salmon would return to the station one or two years later, where they were caught in traps and harvested. The open-net pens came later and took several attempts to establish in earnest. The industry really took root in 2012 and saw significant growth around 2016.

The industry has continued to expand nearly every year since, except for 2022 and 2023, which saw declines in total production due to mass die-offs and biological issues (not because the industry shrank). Norwegian companies have consistently owned or controlled the industry in Iceland to some extent. Iceland’s open-net salmon farming industry is small compared with Norway’s, which produced 1.5M tons in 2021, or Scotland’s, which produced 205,000 tons. But it grew from under 4,000 tons in 2014 to 45,000 tons in 2021 (Figure 1). With the farms have come well-documented problems.

FIGURE 1. Total yearly production of open-net pen salmon in Iceland (in tons). Courtesy of Icelandic Food and Veterinary Authority (MAST).

GRASSROOTS RESCUE

Volunteers jump to the rescue to net and remove escaped farm fish.

Photo: Brynar Arnarsson

One major issue is animal and environmental health. One pen can hold 100,000 to 200,000 salmon. In the wild, salmon carry some sea lice, a small crustacean that latches into the scales. But in cramped quarters, sea lice outbreaks become a constant threat. When salmon become infested with the lice, they are literally eaten alive, creating the melted flesh appearance often used to illustrate the problem. To suppress outbreaks, salmon farmers throw a cocktail of heavy pesticides over the pens. These chemicals kill not only the sea lice, but any and all crustaceans in the water and across the sea floor—shrimp, lobsters, crabs, and others. The lice become resistant to treatments; newer and stronger concoctions must be applied. A vicious cycle. Beneath open-net pens, biologists and activists have documented “dead zones,” lifeless sea floors covered in bacterial mucus from all the fish waste and associated chemicals.

The industry solution to this never-ending cycle of chemical applications has been to introduce “cleaner fish” to the pens, such as puffer fish, which in the wild pick pests off other fish in a symbiotic relationship. The issue is packing in the necessary volume of puffers with those hundreds of thousands of salmon. The cleaner fish die by the thousands daily, plucked belly-up from the pens.

DISEASE, DEFECTS, AND ENVIRONMENTAL DEVASTATION

Crowded conditions in open-net pens promote sea lice infestations and other diseases which kill farmed fish. These maladies, along with genetic weaknesses, are spread to wild populations that come into contact with pens or escaped fish in spawning streams.

Above & Left: Photos: Elias Petur Vidfjord Thorarinsson

Beyond questions of health and animal welfare, is the issue of genetic contamination in wild stock.

“Farmed salmon have now been bred selectively for six decades. Much like domestic livestock on land, the traits preferred for captive rearing are often quite the opposite of those that ensure survival in the wild,” explained Friðriksson. “Labbred salmon are genetically designed to grow as fat as possible as quickly as possible. Whereas a wild salmon might take years to reach peak size, a farmed salmon will reach that size (or often larger) in half the time. And the most dangerous part is that these farm fish don’t have a home river, but they still have instincts, including a drive to breed.”

When farmed salmon escape, they find their way into rivers and breed with wild stock, thereby dumbing down the wild species and dulling those traits that support survival in the wild. Studies have proven interbreeding between farmed and wild fish produces offspring that

mature faster and younger, undermining the ability of the species to reproduce and survive in open water. To make matters worse for Icelandic salmon, the farmed salmon here are of Norwegian origin, further increasing the genetic difference from native wild salmon. (The irony here is that in Norway, it is prohibited to farm salmon from any other location.) Escapes are more common than the industry would like local citizens, governments, and consumers to believe. But the evidence arrives annually in spawning rivers anywhere that Atlantic salmon are farmed nearby.

While the cases of disease, pollution, and genetic contamination speak for themselves, the industry continues to cling to false narratives, namely stories around global hunger and rural livelihoods. To grow salmon in open-net pens, the fish must be fed protein and fatty acids, meaning, they must eat fish as they would in the wild.

LIFE CYCLE OF WILD ATLANTIC SALMON

The life cycle of a wild salmon is the result of thousands of years of evolution. These fish grow to survive in specific salt and freshwater habitats at key points in their development. Compared to their domesticated, labengineered counterparts, each phase of their journey is slower. Farm fish are bred to get as fat as possible as fast as possible, which dilutes key traits for survival in the wild.

Courtesy of Atlantic Salmon Trust / Robin Ade.

ICELANDIC SILVER

Salmon rivers like the Hölkná reported record seasons this year, a tangible byproduct of good catch-and-release policies and angling permit management by river. A 2018 report by the Institute of Economic Studies at the University of Iceland determined that the total value of angling in Iceland was approximately 170.5 billion krona, of which 83% was the value of (nearly) pure salmon rivers. According to experts, the general index is up 40% since the 2018 report was published.

Photo: Brian O’Keefe

“These companies claim that they are feeding a hungry world and taking pressure off wild stocks, but they’re not,” emphasized Friðriksson. “They’re destroying the wild salmon’s capability to do what it has done for the last 10,000 years. The only reason you can buy salmon globally is because this industry has marketed it as a healthy and necessary product. But look at what this industry is doing to hungry people in low- and middle-income countries (LMICs).”

Wild fish are caught off the coasts of LMIC nations and then ground into an oily fish meal to feed farmed salmon in the Global North. These fish meal species are perfectly edible fish that have long provided a protein base and income for coastal communities.

Friðriksson explained, “Salmon raised on fish harvested from another part of the world are ultimately a product that only a small portion of the world can afford to purchase and eat. Food is taken away from people who need it and turned into a luxury product that nobody truly needs.”

Along with the claims of ending global starvation, salmon farm corporations also make a rural livelihoods argument, asserting that they provide vital jobs in remote fjords. However, a 2023 study by the Icelandic Economy Institute showed 330 people employed annually by the industry and of those, 25% were migrant workers. In 2022, open-net pen salmon farming (ONP) contributed a meager 0.3% to the factor income of the entire Icelandic economy.

But these corporations also know how to exert political influence, employing local mayors or recruiting high-ranking officials, some in Iceland’s parliament. In addition to holding influence, the industry is self-regulated. They are accountable for hiring their own inspectors to ensure aquaculture operators are following protocols.

“The Westfjords, where salmon farming has taken hold in Iceland, have historically experienced population loss, with serious boom and bust cycles related to unsustainable industries. These practices hurt tourism, which could be a far greater economic generator. We see fish farming as putting all the eggs in one basket and then stepping on the basket,” elaborated Elias Thorarinsson, project manager at NASF. “We see other solutions, such as land-bound aquaculture. Right now, restaurants in Reykjavík only offer salmon raised on land on their menus. We live in a post-Covid world. People can live remotely and make a living. We don’t need to be yoked to these unsustainable practices.”

Wherever the open-net pens are found, wild stocks inevitably take a hit. Combine the deleterious impacts of salmon farming with the broader challenges of climate change, pollution, and dams, and wild salmon face serious challenges to survival. But the tide might be

MARCHING FOR SALMON

Though Iceland is now known for its pacifist stance and is the only NATO country without a standing military, fierce debates rage over fish. In fall 2023, farmers and landowners from across the country converged at Austurvöllur Square in Reykjavík to protest opennet pen farming. Fishermen, biologists, and others spoke to the crowd. Icelanders are fighting to protect what they see as an integral part of their cultural heritage.

Photo: Sijurjon Ragnar

turning for good, even in the birthplace of the practice of open-net pen aquaculture.

In summer 2024, Norway’s historic salmon rivers experienced disastrous returns. So bad were the salmon runs that rivers were shut down for fishing. Lodge owners and farmers dependent on annual angling income were given four days’ notice that they couldn’t open their waters to fishing, a major blow to the recreational economy. While Norway’s disastrous spawning season might incentivize their public, Icelanders are already firmly taking a stand.

In August 2023, thousands of farmed salmon escaped from an open-net pen located on Patreksfjörður, located on the Westfjords 30 minutes from Bíldudalur and The Sea Monster Museum. Locals jumped into frigid waters to intercept the escaped fish at fish ladders and other key catch points. Escaped fish were caught in at least 32 rivers across Northern Iceland and the total number escaped was estimated at

3,500 fish. This was nothing compared to other breaches. In 2021, at least 81,000 fish escaped from a different farm on the Westfjords, for which the company was heavily fined for not reporting the escape (yet permitted to continue operations). After the 2023 breakout, Icelanders protested.

“With a total population of roughly 350,000 people, surveying Icelandic opinion is relatively easy,” said Thorarinsson. “Seventy percent of our public is firmly against salmon farming. We see what’s happened in Norway and Scotland. We see what’s happening here and a majority of the country is unified in moving on and finding sustainable solutions.”

This public dissent was channeled into a major petition effort in 2024. The “Let’s Undo This” campaign led by NASF Iceland (and with the support of key conservation partners like Icelandic Wildlife Fund and Vala Arnadottir) has garnered nearly 50,000 signatures from across

Iceland and around the world, calling on Icelandic politicians to enact a ban on open-net pen salmon farms and create sustainable solutions during the 2024/25 parliamentary session.

“The overwhelming number of signatures collected through the ‘Let’s Undo This’ campaign is a powerful testament to the growing public demand for change,” Thorarinsson elaborated. “Tens of thousands of voices from Iceland and around the world are calling for a ban on unsustainable salmon farming practices. This movement has become one of the largest signature-gathering campaigns in Iceland’s history, clearly showcasing the collective will to protect our natural environment and push for sustainable solutions. Now, it is in the hands of the Icelandic parliament and those in power to listen to the will of the people and enact the necessary changes.”

Fish are a pillar of Icelandic identity, even the basis of their economy. In medieval Iceland, fiskur (fish) was a value standard. An old Icelandic saying goes, “That doesn’t add up to many fish,” meaning something is of little value or poor quality. The open-net pen industry clearly doesn’t add up to many fish. And for today’s Icelanders, the real measure of value lies in preserving their natural heritage and wild salmon stocks for future generations.

As the country gears up for a new chapter in its long history of fisheries management, the question remains: Will Iceland become a world leader in sustainable fish-farming practices, or will it fall prey to the same mistakes that have decimated wild Atlantic salmon populations elsewhere?

It doesn’t take an advanced anthropology degree to understand that fish ( fiskur ) are inextricably woven into the Icelandic psyche and identity. Look at the island’s diet, geographic names, and earliest recorded ballads, and you’ll find constant references to various fish species, especially to lax salmon. When farmed salmon escape, citizens step forward to take action however they can. Here, volunteers remove escaped farmed salmon from key wild salmon spawning streams.

Photo: Elias Petur Vidfjord Thorarinsson

WHAT YOU CAN DO

1. Sign the “ LET’S UNDO THIS ” petition.

2. At the grocery store and restaurants, either buy sustainably caught wild salmon or salmon raised on land. Avoid salmon farmed in open-net pens in the ocean. Choose sustainably caught wild salmon options whenever possible.

3. Support the efforts of NASF HERE

4. SPREAD THE WORD.

FLÓKI Studios

“We surfed in a blizzard right outside the studio. It wasn’t planned as a team-building exercise, but that’s exactly what it became.”

In an industry that thrives on tradition and rebellion in equal measure, a long-standing anti-tradition persists: musicians venturing to the fringes of civilization to unearth new sounds. Throughout music history, many have turned their backs on the polished perfection of Nashville, L.A., and New York recording studios in favor of raw, elemental spaces—like the fabled Caribou Ranch in Colorado or Muscle Shoals Sound Studio in Alabama, where music was born “in the mud.” Now, pushing the frontier of this renegade tradition is Flóki Studios, situated 20 miles south of the Arctic Circle in Iceland’s wild Flókadalur Valley, near Eleven’s Deplar Farm.

“Our idea was to inspire creativity by giving artists a place to escape—whether from New York, Nashville, or London—sink in, and let the surroundings shape their work. And that’s exactly what happens,” says Wade Koeman, Flóki’s studio director. “Look at our name’s origin story: over a thousand years ago, the Viking Flóki followed a raven west from the Faroe Islands, landing in Iceland. Similarly, the artists who come here have followed their own ‘ravens’ to get out on the edge and bring the world a new vision.”

RELICS

Ledgers, receipts, and other documents from the original grocery co-op—which ran on a partial barter system—are part of the vibe.

ICELANDIC SOUND

Hand-built wooden block diffusers and absorbers wrapped in traditional Icelandic create a distinct recording ambience.

IF YOU LOOK AT IT RIGHT

Original artifacts from the Grateful Dead fill the studio, such as Jerry Garcia’s Leslie preamp, Mickey Hart’s Octapad, and tie-dye tapestries that possibly hung from the Wall of Sound during the band’s 1974 tour. Artists actively use this storied equipment.

Flóki emerged during the height of the 2021 pandemic, when live music and hospitality faced nearly insurmountable challenges. Eleven had previously produced music events and envisioned a music festival in Iceland, near Deplar Farm. Our award-winning adventure property stood out as a destination shaped by a culturally, historically, and environmentally informed perspective. The distinctive elements of Deplar would provide the perfect setting for an unforgettable music experience, blending the dramatic natural beauty and the spirit of the Troll Peninsula. However, a site visit in July 2021 revealed the logistical challenges of hosting a festival near Deplar due to its remote location and extreme environmental conditions. Undeterred, Eleven’s team, along with Jay Sweet, executive producer of the New -

1. The studio lounge space— complete with a record player and 33s—provides musicians a place to break from recording sessions.

port Folk and Jazz Festivals, identified a new opportunity.

The skeleton of a 1919 co-op grocery store—an abandoned, weathered building that had once been the central trading post of the valley—stood near the proposed festival site. Originally slated to serve as a lounge area for festivalgoers and Deplar guests, it was reimagined as a cutting-edge recording studio. The project was ambitious, with a tight four-month window to bring it to life in the remote landscape. By November, the first sessions were booked, and the team had not only built the studio but made it world-class.

Crafted with a focus on Icelandic authenticity, the studio features custom-made acoustic panels and hand-built wooden block diffusers. Wool from

Icelandic sheep is integrated into both the aesthetic and functional elements of the space, from the pillows in the lounge to the cloud absorbers in the recording space. In spite of the off-script inventions and adaptations, there’s been nothing but positive feedback about the way the space feels and sounds.

“In a lot of studios, the focus is on creating ‘acoustically perfect’ rooms that can lose their soul in the process,” Koeman explains. “At Flóki, we didn’t want perfection and function to strip away the aesthetic. You can record anywhere—Billie Eilish recorded her breakout songs in her bedroom. So we approached it with a different mindset, letting the environment shape the space just as much as the equipment.”

Bringing the outside in has become an effortless part of the experience. Resident wildlife—including seals and migratory tundra birds—make the ambience, with musicians often taking breaks to fish, kayak, surf, or heli-ski in the surrounding wilderness. This blend of nature, adventure,

2. Flóki Studios has the gear you need to dial in your sound. Photo: Joel Barger

3. Artists can surf, fish, hike, or partake in wellness programs as part of a holistic creative experience.

While other remote recording destinations have emerged in recent years, few can match the scenery and soul of Flóki Studios.

and creativity is core to the Eleven ethos. Koeman recalled one unforgettable session: “We surfed in a blizzard right outside the studio. It wasn’t planned as a team-building exercise, but that’s exactly what it became. The adrenaline, the cold, the camaraderie—all of that flowed into the music we made later that day.”

Koeman adds, “There’s a reverence that comes with being in a place like this. For most people, it’s their first time in Iceland, and the landscape has a profound effect on their mindset, body language, and ultimately the music they create. In the U.S., artists often squeeze sessions between the chaos of life. Here, they’re immersed in one purpose: to create something beautiful in an extraordinary place. The songs that come out of Flóki have a distinct energy. They could be written anywhere,

but there’s something about the space and place that leaves a mark.”

Since opening in 2021, Flóki has recorded dozens of artists and expanded beyond the studio with its own label (also named Flóki Studios), which has already produced seven albums with an eighth on the way. With future plans to grow its roster and introduce more artists to this one-of-akind environment, the studio shows no signs of slowing down. Current plans include further integrating Deplar Farm’s incredible wellness offerings into the recording program to help artists clear their minds and attain different levels of expression. It’s more than just a studio—it’s a portal to something primal and animistic, rooted in Viking lore, in the tundra itself, where artists can truly find themselves.

A compilation of songs recorded at Flóki Studios.

“HIGH ON THE MOUNTAIN” by The New Mastersounds, Flóki Sessions, Eddie Roberts, Lamar Williams Jr.

“BOOTS IN PLACE” by Eddie Roberts, George Porter Jr., Flóki Sessions, Erica Falls, Robert Walter, Nikki Glaspie

“WHAT HOME IS” by Celestine Manno

“DRAGON, BULL, VULTURE, GIANT” by Selcouth Quartet, Joe Russo, Stuart Bogie, Jonathan Goldberger, Jon Shaw, Flóki Sessions

“MISSION IN THE RAIN” by Oteil Burbridge

“ITSYAMO” by Jack Magnet Science, Peter Erskine, Eypór Gunnarsson, DíSA, Matthew Garrison, Sigtryggur Baldursson, Einar Scheving, Phil Doyle

“BORN AGAIN” by Greensky Bluegrass, Holly Bowling

KIA ORA

LAND OF THE LONG WHITE CLOUD (AND DOUBLE-DIGIT TROUT)

Gemstone waters ideal for trophy specimens flow through the South Island’s spectacular, rugged landscape.

FALL FISHING

After a good cast and a great fight, a brown trout is released back to the river.

CASTING LINES

WOMEN’S WEEK AT OWEN RIVER LODGE

APRIL VOKEY

Story by:

In 2024, Eleven launched its inaugural Women’s Week at Owen River Lodge on New Zealand’s South Island. This retreat offers both first-time and experienced women anglers the opportunity to learn or refine fly fishing skills in one of the world’s premier fisheries. Participants are supported by expert lodge guides, a welcoming staff, and the well-placed comforts of the lodge, all while connecting with likeminded women. The first Women’s Week, hosted by renowned angler and instructor April Vokey, was an instant success.

In the midst of the red stag roar, I crouched low in the tall grass, heart pounding as I peered through my binoculars. The rugged mountains of New Zealand’s South Island loomed above me, with the echoing calls of red stag cutting through the crisp air. My hunting buddy, Rene, and I had been tracking these elusive beasts for days now. We hadn’t closed in on one yet, and our hopes of success felt as distant as the memories of our last proper meal, bed, and shower.

Each night, as we trudged back down the mountain, exhausted and empty-handed, we’d joke about the experience awaiting us at Owen River Lodge, the next stop on our South Island tour. When we paused to stretch our aching backs, we’d exchange tired smiles and repeat the one simple phrase that eased the pain: “Next week at the lodge…” It became our dangling carrot, pulling us through the grind.

For those unfamiliar, Owen River Lodge is a charming fishing retreat tucked away in a remote valley on New Zealand’s South Island, just 90 minutes from Nelson. The main lodge, a converted mid-1900s farmhouse, overlooks the pristine Owen River. Six country cabins dot the landscape like a watercolor painting. A beloved garden, tended by two longtime chefs, provides fresh, local ingredients for the lodge’s meals. In the background, red stag bellow in the distance and birds harmonize in the fruit trees. The setting rivals the best of country living.

We arrived around 4:00 on a Tuesday. The other women were out fishing, so Rene and I sat on our cabin balcony, overlooking the river and giggling with excitement at the thought of laundry service and fresh-baked cookies. It felt like coming home to Mom after a long day at work, with that comforting encouragement to settle in. It took all my restraint not to run around in a bathrobe, drink in one hand and a warm blanket in the other.

As a regular guest for the past 12 years, the lodge has always felt like home to me. There’s something wonderfully disarming about the guides and staff that sets a welcoming tone. One of my favorite things is watching new guests arrive a little on edge, only to see them completely relax as the lodge’s Kiwi hospitality works its magic. I was excited to bring Rene to join me for the annual Women’s Week.

Healthy, wild trout don’t give up easily.

Rene had never fly fished and hadn’t the faintest idea what to expect. I didn’t have the heart to tell her that starting at one of the most impressive fisheries in the world might ruin her expectations as a beginner.

The rivers surrounding Owen River Lodge range from small, gin-clear creeks to milky, glacial braids. The fish are strong and eager, readily taking nymphs, dries, streamers, and even mice. Monsters up to fifteen pounds are possible (but not common) and the rivers are easily accessible. Truly, it is an angler’s paradise.

The women began filtering in, painting the air with laughter, stories, and sighs of relief as they sat down to de-wader. Hailing from the USA, Australia, and New Zealand, the group

was a diverse mix of ages and experience. There was a mother/daughter duo from America, a retiree living life to the fullest, a spitfire expat proving that age is nothing but a number, a local keen to connect with other women anglers, and even Dame Lynda Topp, ambassador for New Zealand Fish & Game (and an absolute legend). It was going to be a great few days.

The next morning, we headed out with guide Stefano, who we’d heard was nothing short of entertaining. As we drove, we swapped stories, found mutual friends, and planned our day. Our main goal was to get Rene into her first trout— and first fish on the fly. Stefano was enthusiastic and knowledgeable, and Rene, both athletic and quick to learn, absorbed the advice she needed while brushing aside the more advanced details.

HEADING TO THE NET

A big brown fooled by a terrestrial dry fly.

SCOPING THE SCENE

An angler and guide scan the water for opportunity.

When we waded into our first run, Rene focused intently on Stefano’s instructions, careful not to interrupt. Six false casts later and she landed her fly perfectly upstream of the fish.

“Watch thees one!,” Stefano’s Italian accent cut through the air, and together we yelled, “Hey!” as Rene’s fish jumped and ran to the middle of the river. Stefano swooped in with the net, beaming as he inspected the catch.

The trout shimmered a soft blue, green, and pink topcoat glazing its silver shoulders and yellow belly. I’ve always been amazed at how such sparkling creatures blend into the dull backdrop of rocks and foggy water windows.

I watched Rene’s confidence return after a week of being defeated by red stag, soggy boots, and relentless sandflies. As the fish slipped back into the current, she too found her rhythm again. It showed in her wading, her casting, and her poise as she went on to land another half-dozen fish.

That evening at the table, Rene fit right in with the other women, all of whom had equally wonderful days. As the rain fell and the river rose, we refused to let anything dampen our spirits. We embraced the downpour—of both rain and wine—drowning out the howling wind with stories and Lynda’s expert yodeling performance.

The next morning came quickly. Stefano waited for us by the car with a grin only an Italian mother could love. He looked like he was up

TUG OF WAR

In deep runs, browns will fight around the boulders. This angler keeps the rod tip high to keep the leader from fraying on the rocks.

YOUR HOST FOR THE WEEK

The author with a fine catch.

to something, knowing we were about to go somewhere spectacular. We were heading to a river I’d fished once before. The fish there are enormous—averaging 10 pounds—but I’d never been savvy enough to land one. We opted to fish the upper section, trudging through fields and puddles, hoping to beat the inevitable brown-water blowout.

As Stefano predicted, the fish were feeding. No, not just feeding—they were nearly beaching themselves to devour our flies. We knew our window was short; rising water would soon kill the bite. And then, I saw him.

Maybe he was the same behemoth I’d seen years before, or maybe he was one of the 10-pounders who had since packed on another four pounds. Either way, he was three feet off the bank and he had his back to me.

The current was tricky and the wind was strong, but I managed a decent cast. He ate. I missed. He turned and followed, only to miss on his end. His behavior suggested he hadn’t noticed me, so I stayed low and quiet, giving him time to settle.

We decided to rest him, hoping he’d return to his feeding spot. When we came back, he was there—this time in an even better position. The cast was easy. The line pulled taut, and I lifted my rod to begin the fight. He shook his head once, and my line snapped effortlessly. As he sauntered into the swirling pool of debris and bubbles, I could almost hear him say, “Don’t hate the player, hate the game.”

I screamed. Wind knot? Maybe. A nick in the line? Possibly. Pure rage? Absolutely. If water has memory, it carried some colorful language downstream that day. I walked back with Stefano and Rene in silence, eventually meeting up with another guide familiar with the fish we’d encountered.

“Oh, him…,” It was all I needed to hear. I soon learned that other lodge guests had hooked the same fish, but none had landed him. No one knows if he’s 12, 14, or 16 pounds. In my memory, he’s already on his way to a solid 20.

Our final evening together was more subdued than the last. There was a bittersweet air, knowing our time was ending. We shared our last stories, each of us recounting trip highlights. Lynda led one final yodel, and we toasted to the fish, the laughter, and the friendships we’d made.

As I packed my gear that night, I couldn’t help but smile. Rene had conquered her first trout, and though I’d lost my battles with the river’s giant and the mountain’s beast, I knew I’d be back to try again. Owen River Lodge has a way of calling you home, and this wouldn’t be the last time we answered.

April Vokey is a is an angler, casting instructor, podcaster, membership coordinator for Anchored Outdoors, mother, world-traveler, and DIY enthusiast. Her journey in the fly fishing world has been one of passion, dedication, and unwavering advocacy for the sport and fisheries. Born and raised on British Columbia’s famed steelheading waters, she now calls Australia her home base.

MYTH-BUSTING

MYTH-BUSTING

WITH KIWI GUIDES

STEALTH

An angler conceals himself as he waits for the fish to turn in order to make a cast.

For many anglers, the allure of fishing in Aotearoa (New Zealand) is undeniable—a land of fabled waters and the promise of legendary trout. However, as with any adventure, the reality often differs from the romanticized notions that precede it. Upon casting their lines for the first time in New Zealand’s rivers, many anglers quickly discover that they’ve brought along more than just their gear; they’ve also packed a few preconceived notions that don’t quite hold water.

To help navigate these myths, we’ve gathered insights from the professional guide teams at Eleven’s Owen River Lodge and Cedar Lodge, both located on the South Island. Drawing on their 100-plus years of combined guiding experience, they’ve compiled a list of common myths and the corresponding truths, ensuring that your New Zealand fly fishing journey is grounded in reality, setting the stage for a truly unforgettable adventure.

MYTH

New Zealand is only for expert anglers.

FACT

New Zealand is for anyone with interest, and in our opinion, is a “must” experience for all anglers. It certainly helps to be an experienced angler. However, we cater to all levels of anglers and even never-evers each year. You’d be surprised at how successful a first-time angler can be. They aren’t stricken with “trout fever” because they have nothing to compare it to. Also, on request, we work with anglers on our custom casting courses in the evenings. It’s easier to make casting adjustments off the water than on the water.

“

We cater to all levels of anglers and even neverevers each year.”

MYTH

You only get one shot at a fish before it disappears.

FACT

Of course there is no argument that it is a good idea to be able to land the fly exactly where you want it (and in some situations, this is absolutely imperative). The general rule of thumb is that the first cast has a 100% chance of catching the fish, and every other cast after that, your chances of catching it go down by 20%. But you’d be surprised how far a trout will move to feed, especially when there is a protein-packed meal like a cicada floating overhead. I’ve seen a guest cast very short, and the cicada imitation landed 20 feet away from the trout. The trout

turned, having heard the distinct plop hitting the water, and came like a torpedo at the fly, smashing it 10 feet downstream of where it initially landed. End result: fourpound brown trout to the net. The key in this situation was, even though the cast was off target, the angler left it instead of immediately picking it off the water. They fished it out and remained focused on the presentation. The trout rushed over, inspected the fly, and inhaled it. With large meals, trout will let down their guard at times.

MYTH

If it’s summer in New Zealand, the weather will be perfect and the winds light.

FACT

The weather can be unpredictable! Perfect weather is actually a sunny or partly cloudy day with a breeze. Believe it or not, you actually want a breeze so that the water has a little ripple to it. The wind is your friend. It helps conceal us as anglers and helps with presentation. A dead-calm day is often difficult for angling; the trout can see every detail or movement. And the sun here is very harsh, which requires extra protection. We highly recommend a sun hoodie and, without question, quality polarized glasses in rose or yellow lens tint.

“

The wind is your friend. It helps conceal us as anglers and helps with presentation.”

MYTH

In order to catch trout in New Zealand, you must be able to cast great distances.

FACT

Quite the opposite! While long-distance casting is crucial for certain global destinations and various angling applications, fly fishing in the South Island often requires only 30-foot casts. The real challenge lies in making these casts with a 12- to 18-foot leader. Many of our fish are sight-fished in crystal-clear water, often sitting in pocket water upstream of rocks, shallow water within a main feeding seam, sunken logs, or in deep swirling pools, or even in plain sight where you would never see a trout sit in an American stream due to predator presence. Drag is the biggest issue, where a

natural drift is vital for success. An unnatural drift of your dry fly or nymph will result in a quick refusal. “Drag-free” casts are essential to tempt and deceive a large brown trout over six pounds. These casts often require “short,” “high reach,” or “parachute” action techniques. It isn’t at all about distance. Distance can help at times, but far more important is accuracy and presentation—often more so than even the fly you are presenting.

FACT MYTH

Dark or the new all-clear fly lines are a must-have for New Zealand fly fishing.

A dark fly line or one of the new allclear lines can help. However, more fish are lost because anglers do not know where their fly and line have landed. Some mistime the strike or have poor line management. We recommend neutral fly line colors (bone, gray, light olive) that allow you (and your guide) to see your line on the water for better line and fly awareness. If fished correctly, the fish should never see the fly line in the air while casting or on the water during presentation.

“ We recommend neutral fly line colors (bone, gray, light olive) that allow you (and your guide) to see your line on the water.”

MYTH

You need to match the hatch perfectly to get the fish to eat.

FACT

Most of our high country rivers do not experience big hatches and the fish are opportunistic feeders.

Sometimes, a fish will refuse a nicely presented dry fly, but will keep feeding. The guides will usually rest the fish for five minutes and change to a smaller pattern. If that doesn’t do the trick, then the trout is rested again and the guide will add 20 inches of tippet and a small nymph. That can be very productive and adds to the cat-and-mouse fishing tactics that are so exciting and fun.

“

. . . as long as the presentation is good, fish will eat most bugs floating by.”

MYTH

You shouldn’t expect to land fish daily.

FACT

Yes, measuring each day by the number of opportunities you have been presented with is a general rule when it comes to New Zealand. However, we like to measure the number of opportunities and the number of fish landed per angler. On average, throughout the last season at both Cedar Lodge and Owen River Lodge, we averaged three fish per guide day. Obviously, this can vary with some anglers catching more and others catching

less. However, overall our anglers are coming away with fish to hand every day of the season. And don’t forget: These fish brought to hand aren’t your average U.S.-size class of 12 to 18 inches; they are measured in pounds, averaging 4 to 6!

GORDON C. SUTHERLAND

CHEF & ANGLER

Cedar Lodge, New Zealand

I was born in Auckland, New Zealand, but grew up near Lake Taupō in the central North Island. It was here that I learned to fly fish on the world-famous dry fly waters of the Waitahanui River and the rivers feeding Lake Taupō. My father catered for the single men’s camps in the timber industry, providing meals for over a thousand workers from the Pacific Islands who were employed in forestry and at the Kinleith pulp and paper mill. This was my first experience with large-scale catering. The menu was basic—mostly meat and three vegetables, typical of New Zealand’s culinary scene in the 1970s.

Sunday dinner was a family affair for us. We would either enjoy the buffet at the Wairakei Resort or indulge in à la carte dining at my father’s friend’s restaurant, Echo Cliff, on the Taupō waterfront. Prawn cocktails, beef schnitzel, and peach melba—it was the height of sophistication back then, and we had to dress up for the occasion.

After school, I trained as a butcher, which I disliked, but it honed my knife skills and led to an apprenticeship at New Zealand’s largest hotel. The work was grueling, with 12-hour shifts, cramped living quarters, and little pay. I soon realized if I stayed in hotels, I wanted to be in management, where the managers seemed to have it best—good suits, time off, and the perks of fine dining. I spent the next seven years in hotel management training, opening seven chain restaurants in New Zealand and Australia. Though I was constantly working, it gave me a strong foundation in hospitality.

At 26, I set off to see the world. Over a year, I worked in 22 restaurants across nine countries, fishing wherever I could. After a decade, I had circled the globe twice, all funded by cooking. Back in New Zealand, I wanted to combine my love of cooking, fishing, and remote living into a lifestyle. The Pacific Islands fit the bill. Over eight years and 16 islands, I became executive chef and food and beverage manager at some of the region’s best resorts, while always finding time to fish. Eventually, with a newborn son, I thought I’d settle down. But instead, I took on large-scale catering operations for 40,000-person stadiums. After another son arrived, I realized I had lost sight of my original goals. I walked away, determined to live a life where I could cook, fish, enjoy fine wine, and spend time with my family.

I devised a plan to work on my terms, focusing on locations that offered great fishing. I secured roles at a lodge, a national park hotel, and as head chef at Sea Change Eco Retreat in Tonga—all with access to some of the world’s best fresh- and saltwater fishing. I held these positions until the pandemic hit. When New Zealand locked down, I flew to Rarotonga in the Cook Islands, choosing to be stranded somewhere I could fish.

“My downtime is spent fly fishing some of the best trout water in the world. I must thank Cedar Lodge manager Scottie for teaching me how it is really done on these waters. But it still annoys me that he outfishes me every time we are out together. Rule number one: Never challenge a man on his own water!”

“I cannot provide you with recipes because, at Cedar Lodge, I cook from the heart. I cater to guests by speaking with them after the first night’s dinner, and from there, design daily changing three-course menus for their stay.”

Tonga reopened, and I returned to Sea Change Eco Retreat to help rebuild the resort after a tsunami and cyclones. But I still needed to fill the rest of my year. That’s when Cedar Lodge, a backcountry fly fishing lodge in Central Otago, caught my eye. The role of chef and fly fisherman was perfect.

At Cedar Lodge, I’ve rediscovered my passion for creating high-end meals that exceed guest expectations, using fresh local produce and pairing dishes with the best regional wines. Our offerings include everything from New Zealand’s first-of-the-season Bluff oysters served in an ice bowl to baked sea-run salmon with wakame salad and fresh lime hollandaise. Our fireside cheese and port platters are legendary, and wood-fired pizza nights have become a communal event for guests to share their day’s fishing stories.

From May to October, I return to Ualevu, an off-grid island in Tonga, catering to guests who come to swim with humpback whales and fish for giant trevally. The isolation presents challenges, but I thrive on them. Just when you think you have everything sorted, the Pacific throws you a curveball.

My career spans 50 years, 16 islands, and nine countries. I’m a traveling adventure chef, always ready for a challenge, especially if it involves fishing. I’m in the business of delivering food pleasure, both visually and gastronomical. New Zealand will always be home, but I’ll keep exploring, cooking, and fishing wherever the journey takes me.

Photo: Chris Burkard

ELEVEN ANGLING ABOUT

From the glacier-carved valleys in Iceland and the countless trout streams in Colorado to the globally renowned fisheries of New Zealand and Chile, Eleven’s global portfolio of angling experiences is second to none. We’ve scoured the globe for unique places that deliver the most riveting fly fishing opportunities, then created the kind of intricately planned itineraries and well-appointed lodging that distinguish us from other leaders in the angling world.

In these far-flung lodges, chalets, and cabins, we customize all-encompassing adventures that revolve around the fishing, yet all the while are characterized by personalized touches of service and detail. Expect chef-prepared meals at riverside outposts, comfort-forward accommodations saturated in cultural authenticity, and guided activities tailor-made for those who prefer to explore the outdoors by foot and bike.

Our guides are the cornerstone of your time with us—count on them to know every riffle, run, and pool in the water; every trail and lookout point on land; and every insider tip for experiencing the area like a longtime local. No matter your skill level, our Experience Team lives and breathes to make your time on and off the water truly unforgettable.

RIO PALENA LODGE, CHILEAN PATAGONIA