STEREOTYPES REVOLUTION ON THE CATWALK P.06 BREAKING
THE SCIENCE HELPS YOU TO CHANGE THE WORLD
P.10
GENDER DECONSTRUCTION AND ART EVENT
P.16
CURIOUS GROOMIN RITUALS AROUND THE WORLD
DICOVER THE BARBER ROLE DURING CIVILIATION
FRANCK BOHBOT SHOW US A NEW PERSCPETIVE P.26
WELCOME TO THE FAMILY! MEET THE NEW YORK MAFIA FAMILIES AND THEIR INTRIGUES
BENVENUTO IN Famiglia
OCT.17
OCTOBER 2017 ISSUE
ANTIMATTER P.16 P.20
P.06
CARTOGRAPHY WORLDWIDE GROOMING ELEMENTARY BEARD SECRET FORMULA
BREAKING STEREOTYPES, A REVOLUTION ON CATWALKS!
THEMES P.22 P.26 P.09 P.10
MORE THAN HAIR! HAIR LOSS DISEASES GENDER DECONSTRUCTION AND ART!
DOSSIER P.12
THE ROLE OF THE BARBERS DURING THE MANKIND HISTORY
P.32
BIENVENUTO IN FAMIGLIA MAFIA FAMILIES AND INTRIGUES BARBERSHOPS AROUND WORLD NEW SIGHT THROUGH THE CAMERA ULTIMATUM ONLY 1 MIN
WWW.GALILEU.GLOBO.COM
WHO MADE THE COVER
Created by GreenHill from the Noun Project
#310
10.2017 by GIULIANO
PHOTO ShutterStock? PRODUCER Me, Myself and I MODEL I Wonder MAKEUP I Hope Not ACKNOWLEDGMENT Caroline R. Soares My dog Only God Knows
THEY SAY YOU SHOULD NOT JUDGE A BOOK BY ITS COVER, BUT...
very month beyond the normal staff meeting, we also hold a second one with all the gang just to discuss the front page image. Sometimes it lasts five minutes, which happened in June last year’s issue, which dealt with child eroticization e showed a little girl writing by hand the phrase “This novinha is a child”. We also spend more than five hours locked inside the meeting room devouring packages and more packages of snacks (there’s always a good soul who provides the food) until we find a satisfactory solution. It was what happened with the last July issue, about meritocracy ( the poor have their place. And don’t leave there because?) we used a babysitter photo on a yellow service ele-
vator that the art editor Fernanda Didini build up it just for the photoshoot. All that is reported to show how much we care about the magazine design. We know that how the contents are introduced will contribute (a lot) to turn it not more pretty, but more interesting and informative. In November 2015, we launched a new graphic project that, even at this time, received umpteen national awards. Which one of the most important was the silver medal from “The Best of News Design”yearly competition which brings together the best publications from the entire world. Well, in 2016, we took the time to do a series of modifications in the project that lead to final product even better finished. So the reseult was that, this time, we won not one, but gold medals and another three honorable mentions. We were the only brazilian vehicle and one of the few in the world to won a gold medal (next to us in the list are “The New York Times” and “National Geographic”, cof). To celebrate, nothing is fairer than using the monthly colaborators space, here next door, to introduce our little, but brilliant, art department. Good reading, and see you all next month!
CAROLINE V. SOARES ADOBE WIZARD BORNED WHERE LIVE WHERE
Porto Alegre (RS)
HISTORIC
Enthralled in the graphics and arts since 2014 by Centro Universitário Ritter dos Reis and Napalm School.
KNOWN AS
Kalunga lover, “marmitex” enthusiast, watercolor and illustrations muse.
EDUARDO A. WAHLBRINK EDITORIAL DIVA BORNED WHERE LIVE WHERE Crissiumal (RS) and Porto Alegre (RS)
HISTORIC Highly qualified by Agencies as “Bongo” and “8 Total Brand”. Survived the Centro Universitário Ritter dos Reis. He’s practically a self-taught student.
KNOWN AS
Giuliano Oliveira - Intern
Olenna Tyrell (Queen of Thorns) Reencarnation. Design Guru and Oracle.
intern@edglobo.com.br
MONTHLY COLABORATORS
THAÍS AVILA
ELIANE LIMA DESIGNER
INTERNATIONAL REPORTER BORNED WHERE LIVE WHERE
BORNED WHERE LIVE WHERE
Porto Alegre (RS), not settled down yet
Porto Alegre (RS), Cachoeirinha (RS)
HISTORIC
HISTORIC
Traveller and influencer. Graduted
Has a vast curriculum and creden-
in Fashion Design by SENAI. Also is
tials. Worked at Humanus and Bongô
former dancer.
Agency. Graphic Design Student.
KNOWN AS
KNOWN AS
Cleopatra, Tainá, Manuela D’Ávila lost
Little Atomic Ant, Tinker Bell, Bela Gil
twin sister. The blogger yous respect.
pocket version.
Issue 311 November 2017
by CAROLINE VOLLRATH SOARES
ANY FORM OF EVALUATION
WHAT THEY THINK ... ABOUT THE COVER
ABOUT THE BARBERSHOP DOSSIEUR
33.3%
Want to donate their hairs to charity
50%
100% Would shave
16.7%
Would try exotic grooming techniques
their beards
Never would trust their dentists again
AVERAGE OF MATERIALS
10
5.5
9.5
7.5
8.9
Mafia Families
Hair Donation
Barbers History
Advertisements
Barbershops
10.2017
FACTS
10.2017
EDITION EDUARDO WAHLBRINK DESIGN CAROLINE SOARES
ACTINGS
GUEST ILUSTRATORS STEVE SCOTT (US)
NUMBERS
NOTES
P.05
NOTABLES
P.06
10.2017
CATWALK CHECKLIST Numbers and attributes are required by the modeling industry before applying to the model career.
FEMALE
Hips
Build Bust Height
Height Weight
Weight Waist Dress Size
MALE ukmodels
“You don’t need to be 5’10 tall or dressed from head to toe in Alexander McQueen...”
On the last years we can see a growing number of models challenging conventions and promoting a more inclusive, diverse fashion industry. There are many stereotypes in the fashion industry. We sell the feeling that the world of fashion belongs to somewhat exclusive group of people and that it’s extremely difficult to become one of them. This industry is not what it seems to be – “you don’t need to be 5’10 tall or dressed from head to toe in Alexander McQueen. But I only understood it when I landed my first internship at TOM FORD. I met the people who shape the industry and they were nothing like The Devil Wears Prada characters. They were more real: intelligent, but fun, maybe competitive, but always fair.” Says Kamile Kaselyte, a young and innovative fashion designer who contributes to break the stereotypes in fashion industry. Nowadays
we can experience the great impact that social media makes on what people think or believe. Some people were to think and dig deeper before sharing and shouting out loud about things they never experienced, many stereotypes would be almost non-existent. It’s good to talk about things, yet some really bizarre messages become viral that way. And that’s very much applicable in fashion. That’s where people start believing in stereotypes and labelling things. If people were to think and dig deeper before sharing and shouting out loud about things they never experienced, many stereotypes would be almost non-existent.
BREAKING THE RULES There is a growing number of models challenging conventions and promoting a more inclusive, diverse fashion industry. Ashley Graham grab-
THE CULPRIT Until the 1960s the models were fuller and sexier. Everything changed when the Englishwoman Lesley Hornby, known as Twiggy, took her measly 43 kilos to the catwalks.
10.2017
P.07
BEYOND APPEANRANCES A little overview on models health Suffer from anxiety and/or depression Asked to lose weight Exposed to drugs and/or alcohol
modelalliance
Exposed to cocaine
bed the world’s attention last year when she was the first plus-size model to appear on the cover of the Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue. 22 years old model Winnie Harlow, was diagnosed with skin condition vitiligo. She also had shot to fame after starring in cycle 21 of America’s Next Top Model. African-American male model Shaun Ross is the first professional albino male model. Rebekah Marine has a bionic arm as she was born without a forearm, but does not let this get in the way of her modelling career. In 2016, Zach Miko became the first ever plus-size male model to be signed to major modelling agency IMG. Lebohang Monyatsi’s disability has not stopped her from chasing her teenage dream and she smash the catwalk with her weelchair. Hari Nef became the first ever openly transgender model to appear on the cover of a British magazine, she covered Elle in 2016.
THE NEW OLD MAN The changes off the fashionable vision and sense of the society normally take places when a crisis occurs and compels us to review our priorities. In 2008 North America experienced the worst financial crisis since the stock market crash of 1929. Millions were laid off, businesses underwent massive restructuring and organizational changes, and society as a whole became a lot more conservative with their money. People no longer could afford to live a life of excess. Consumer tastes demanded longer-lasting, quality goods that would last them many years into the future. It was at this time that the “Workwear” trend in men’s (and to a lesser degree, women’s) fashion took hold. Instead of new, shiny, elegant clothing, male consumers of the world demanded rugged clothing crafted from a quality manufacturing process.
Have had eating disorders Lack health insurance Instead of new, shiny, elegant clothing, male consumers of the world demanded rugged clothing crafted from a quality manufacturing process. Almost overnight, large fashion houses started cranking out workwear inspired pieces. Entire brands based around a workwear focus even started to pop up. For two years, the workwear trend boomed. Like all popular fashion trends, eventually the workwear tastes of the fashion savvy eventually trickled down to urban trendsetters. It was at this time that mention of the “urban lumberjack” was first seen in publications outside the fashion industry’s inner circle. Flannel shirts, selvedge jeans, duck cotton coloured pants, and sturdy leather boots became popular amongst the hipster crowds of Williamsburg, Brooklyn, and Queen West. Besides the fashion changes there were other trends happening at same time like the support of local farmer’s market, people started to be more interest by urban farming and gardening, the craft beer started to take of, beards became en vogue, as did growing your hair longer, perhaps sporting a man bun in the process. The changes also influenced the music, as the musical styles country and folk music becaming popular. This myriad of trends gave birth to the lifestyle of the urban lumberjack, nowadays is known as “the lumbersexual.”
68.3% 64.1% 76.5% 50.6% 31.2% 28.8% Contrary to what many people believes and think, the lumbersexual did not arise out of gay culture. The urban lumberjack is largely one borne out of the larger hipster countercultural movement, which has evolved from comically large sunglasses and keffiyeh scarves to dressing like lumberjacks and drinking Pabst Blue Ribbon or craft beers. The feminization of society in the last 50 years has also contributed to the rise of the urban lumberjack. Feminization is one of the reasons that violence has declined in our society, but it has also left many men without a sense of what their masculine identity is. Dressing like a lumberjack, one of the stereotypically “manly” occupations is their attempt at trying to capture some of that bygone testosterone, even if they’ve never held an axe before. Five years from now, we probably won’t see as many beards, flannel shirts, or work boots being sported by hip young adults across North America. Most of these individuals will have moved on, grown up, for a countercultural lifestyle in a capitalist society has a limited lifespan. The generation after them will find their own problem with the world, their own quest to be “cool”, and their tastes will reflect that. It’s what happened with the hippies in the 60s, the punks of the 70s, Grunge in the 90s, and now hipsters in the 2000s and beyond.
THE EASTERN FOOD THAT YOU RESPECT
10.2017
P.09
Of people around the age of 30-40, seek for restorative treatment of the hair.
TYPES OF ALOPICIA
MORE THAN HAIR There are several problems facing children who suffer long-term medical hair loss. Most wigs sold by retailers are made to fit adult heads, and are much too big for children to wear. They often require the use of tape or glue to keep them from falling off, and these adhesives can burn or irritate the scalp. Often, the styles of adult wigs are not age-appropriate and synthetic wigs can mat and frizz with excessive styling. Charities organizations were founded to be devoted to helping every child suffering from medical hair loss. Information are listed in an attempt to explain types of hair loss and specific needs of individual recipients. A great share of patients are financially disadvantaged children, age 21 and under, suffering from long-term medical hair loss from any diagnosis.
Most of the children suffer from an autoimmune disorder called alopecia areata, which causes the hair follicles to shut down. In addition to the loss of scalp hair, many also lose their eyelashes, eyebrows and all body hair. This hair loss is permanent in most cases, and there is no known cause or cure. Other recipients have been victim to severe burns, cancer survivors, or suffer from any number of skin disorders that cause permanent hair loss. The children who receive these hair donations have lost more than their hair; they suffer from a loss of self. Many children have been teased by classmates and/ or embarrassed by the attention they receive because of their hair loss. They often will withdraw from normal childhood activities such as swimming, going to the mall or even playing with their friends. While wearing a hairpiece is certainly not a cure for these children, it can help restore some of the normalcy to their everyday lives that most of us take for granted. That help will rebuild their self-esteem.
Alopicia Areata
Partial loss of the scalp hair.
Alopicia Totalis
100% loss of the scalp hair.
Alopicia Universalis
100% loss of the scalp and body hair.
MAIN HAIR LOSS DISEASES poor nutrition stress illness heredity
Alopecia affects one person in every 100.
BARR
And genetics play a role in one in five cases.
Of the hair loss causes are related to the androgetic alopecia disease. Around 811.363 people seek for alopecia treatment worldwide.
Normal hair loss is considered to be 100 hairs per day, based on the average scalp containing 100,000 hair follicles. 50% of women are affect by hair loss. 40% of men have noticeable hair loss by age of 35.
P.10
10.2017
GENDER DESCONSTRUCTION AND ART
Beauty is Resistance, Elastico and Moustashe’s, gathered for a queer performance night. A gender bending society was played, trasforming men into women and viceversa; Is strongly believed that in the central role of gender deconstruction in people’s consciuosness and also the thought that the best way to get to know ourselves is through the exploration of our bodies and genders. Moustaches were selected as a symbolic object to represent the participants genderqueer, playful idea of society and relationships but it was decided not to concentrate only on that; In fact, beside the barber cornershop, the work had been directioned on a different perception of the space between the genders, giving some suggestions on how to change the standard way we use our bodies in the space, creating a real drag queer night.
“The nature vs. nurture debate on whether biology or environment causes human beings to choose certain roles and lifestyles is a perennial controversy in sociobiology, but since the seventies the debate has been extended to whether nurture, i.e. culture, can override biology and be a determinant of sex itself.”
EQUITY FEMINISTS Liberal feminists of the ’60s, or what Christina Hoff Sommers, author of Who Stole Feminism, refers to as “equity feminists,” believed that women should have as much freedom and opportunity as men and that discriminatory laws should be eliminated.2 However, within a decade, liberal feminism was overtaken by the far more radical “gender feminism,” which, building on Marxist ideology, requires the elimination not only of economic classes but of sex classes, i.e. the division of humans into male and female. Hence the substitution of the word “gender” for sex. “Gender” is primarily a grammatical term, which may be determined by a distinguishing characteristic, i.e. sex, but gender can also be arbitrary like the gender of some nouns in Spanish and French — “table” in Spanish is feminine (la mesa), in French it is masculine (le table).
AMONG TRANSGENDER PEOPLE 90% According to Llama man/woman, masculine/ feminine are merely cultural constructions, and thinking that heterosexuality is the “natural” sexuality is only another “example of a ‘biological’ social construction.” At the U.N. World Conference on Women in 1995, feminists claimed that the sexuality of multiple genders found expression as heterosexual, homosexual, bisexual, asexual, hermaphrodite, transvestite and transgendered, the latter group being further sub-divided into those who were awaiting surgery, those who had surgery, and those who had surgery but now wished to revert back to their original condition.
41% 46%
Have attemped suicide Feel uncomfortable seeking help from police Have experienced discrimination at work BITCHMEDIA
10.2017
P.11
BARBERS THROUGH HISTORY REPORTER CAROLINE SOARES EDITION EDUARDO WAHLBRINK
DESIGN GIULIANO DE OLIVEIRA
HISTORY OF A TRADITIONAL BARBERSHOP Walking into an authentic barbershop is a truly unique experience. The old traditional barbershop is a place with welcoming friendly atmosphere and dedicated professionals, totally in love with their trade, who really do understand men’s hair. The old-school barbershops are now back in trend, and, interestingly, this traditional art form has not changed much over the years. At the end of 19th century and up to the beginning of the II World War barbershops were rivalling taverns and pubs in terms of popularity. They served as a ‘hang-out’ place for men, who came in not only for a shave or haircut, but also to catch up on current news and have a chat with friends. Many visitors would return weekly or even daily. This was a golden age of barbershops. Classy elegant furnishings, sleek walnut barber chairs, luxury upholstery, artistic frescoes, ornate mirrors
mirrors, even crystal chandeliers – these are typical interior design features of a barbershop of that golden era, now being reproduced by the modern followers. In spite of the luxury surroundings, barbershops were designed to be homey place ake their minds of the hard days work. The barbershops flourished until the consumer products giant Gillette introduced its safety razor and launched a huge marketing campaign positioning it as a safer and cheaper alternative to a barbershop. The Great Depression and the two world wars made it even worse – the pool clientele became smaller and people were reluc-
12
tant to spend cash on barber services. Later on, the hippie culture brought shaggy styles in, and a trip to a barber became a completely antique experience. The rise of the unisex salon kept the classic barbershop in the shadows throughout the 1980’s and 1990’s. Yet in recent years, there has been a huge rise in traditional barbershops all over the world as many men are looking for a more customised men-only experience. Today’s barber shops provide a social outlet just like hundred years ago. Customers walk away having heard some great stories, jokes, and debates on current daily affairs.
THE TRUE ORIGIN OF THE BARBER’S POLE Beyound the aesthetic, the barber pole was used to differentiate and symbolize the extra jobs practiced by barbers, like surgeries. NO MORE BEARDS!
BEYOUND THE TRADITIONAL Today’s barber shops provide a social outlet just like hundred years ago. Customers walk away having heard some great stories, jokes, and debates on current affairs. As back in the old times you can sit back into a traditional barber chair and indulge into a classic wet shaving experience or a clipper haircut, done exclusively on men’s hair in an atmosphere of a friendly village pub. The barbershop is a tradition that has changed very little for generations. Unike with unisex salons, there in no mentioning of any modern inventions – such as waxing or highlighting. When you visit a barbershop, you know that you’re going to walk away with a great haircut and enjoy good company during your visit. Today’s vintage style barbershops go the extra mile offering additional services like a beer or a nip of whiskey, paying tribute to the golden age of barbering, when getting a beard trim was a full-service affair. Experienced barbers can also give customised tips on improving daily grooming routine and helping look your best at all times. Walking into a barbershop, one gets much more than a haircut or a shave – you can become a part of a manly tradition that is definitely worth its revival.
“What one experiences in a barber’s shop the first time he enters one is what he always experiences in barbers’ shops afterward till the end of his days.” 13
As was previously said , in the Middle Ages barbers were not only cutting hair and shaving, but also pulling teeth, dressing wounds and performing simple operations. These barber-surgeons actually formed their first organisation in France in 1096, after the archbishop of Rouen prohibited the wearing of beards! LANGUAGE MEANING The actual word comes from the Latin ‘barba’, meaning ‘beard’. FOR THE PLEB Until 1745, the guilds of surgeons worked along with the barbers’ guilds. But since that year, by decision of the king George II of Great Britain, both guilds were separated and the barbers were restricted only to their tasks of hair care. The king Louis XIV, in France, will take the same decision years later. It produced a decline and a loss of prestige in the profession. Since the second half of the 17th century, barbershops became unsanitary places frequented by people of low social level, and the barbers lose respect and social rank. EMPOWERMENT TO THE BEARD Throughout time and across cultures, shaving, beard trimming, and even hairstyling carried heavy cultural meaning for men. Shaving and grooming were part of many cultures’ rites of passage, were sometimes tied to religious rituals, and could connote power or status.
BARBER-SURGEONS At the fall of the Roman Empire and when the people called by them “barbarians” invaded Europe, all the Romans looked very well clean shaven. But the Franks, Visigoths and other German peoples brought the fashion of beards and long hair. At the Middle Ages, there was an important change in barbers’ activities. All the surgical operations were at that time in hands of the clergymen, who were the only cultivated and educated people at that time. Even the 90% of the nobles were completely illiterate. The priests hired then, to assist them in their medical operations, the only people capable to perform that task: the barbers, who were also familiarized with dental extractions and other minor surgical interventions. The First Council of Lateran of 1123 “peremptorily prohibited the clergy from attending at the bed side of the sick, otherwise than as ministers of religion”. The Second Council of Lateran, in 1139, threatened all priests who persist in the practice of medicine. In the Council of Tours of 1163, the Pope Alexander III issued a similar prohibition. And in 1215 the Pope Innocent III issued an edict through the fourth Lateran Council , addressed to deacons and priests forbidding them from the practice of operations where blood is present. It’s established, then, than the extraction of human blood (most of the cures were bloodlettings) would be, from then on, a sin of sacrilege for the ministers of God. As a consequence, barbers took all those tasks in their hands. The profession of barber achieved, then, a high category not seen before. And it also started, along the 6 next centuries, a fight and a hard competition between barbers and medical surgeons. Until the 15th century, barbers continued doing surgery and all kind of cures, with no inconvenience. In 1450, in England, b by decision of the Parliament, they would be restricted to bloodlettings, dental extractions and hair care. In the 16th and 17th centuries, barbers were elevated to high positions in the European royal courts. An edict issued by Henry the VIIIth of England allowed them to receive once a year bodies for dissections and the study of the human anatomy.
8
CURIOUS FACTS ABOUT BARBERS
1. HARDCORE SHAVING A barber’s razor was mentioned in the Old Testament. God instructs the prophet Ezekiel to “take a sharp sword and use it as a barber’s razor to shave your head and your beard”.
2. BARBERING SINCE... Barbering is one of the oldest professions in the world. There are tomb paintings from ancient Egypt that show a barber cutting hair, along with relics of razors nearly 6,000 years old.
3. BEARD ARTISTS It was in Greece during its Golden Age (500-300 BC) that barbering became a highly developed art.
4. BEARD ARTISTS It was in Greece during its Golden Age (500-300 BC) that barbering became a highly developed art.
5. SECRET IGREDIENT According to the Oxford Dictionary, “lotium” was a word for “stale urine used by barbers”. They used it as a kind of shampoo.
14
14
6 . RENAMING In the early 1900s an alternative word for barber, “chirotonsor”, came into use in the USA.
7 . HERITAGE Barber chairs in engravings from the Civil War era share many features with modern chairs, including high seating, upholstery, and a footrest. The first factory-manufactured chairs date to around 1850. The first one-piece reclining barber chair with an attached footrest was patented in 1878 by the Archer Company of Saint Louis.
IT’S MUCH MORE FUN THIS WAY!
8 . THE VETERAN The oldest surviving barber shop in the world is Truefitt and Hill in London, established in 1805. It now operates in 8 countries, Azerbaijan, South Korea, Canada, India, Thailand, USA, Singapore and Malaysia, offering professional haircuts and other grooming services.
JUST FUN
P.16
10.2017
CARTOGRAPHIC
GROOMING HABITS WORLDWIDE
USA x EUROPE After 1995, local beard clubs in Northern Europe began organizing international competitions every two years. In 1997, the Norwegian Moustache Club (Den Norske Mustaschklubben), headquartered in Tron-
JAMAICA
dheim held the competition in its hometown of Trondheim.
When most people hear the
Bearding came to American in
word “Rastafarian,” they think
2003 with the World Beard and
of men with dreadlocks, of
Moustache Championships®
smoking ganja, and of men
held in Carson City, Nevada as
with dreadlocks smoking ganja.
part of the annual Nevada Day
Basically, they think of Bob
Celebration. Approximately 85
Marley.Infact,Rastafariisavery
European beardsmen showed
serious philosophy that takes much direction from the Bible. While there are some people who claim to be Rastafari just as an excuse to do drugs, there are many true believers, and the public idea of them is often quite inaccurate. Rastafari believe that they should let their hair grow long and not taint it with anythingunnatural.
theirstufftoacrowdofenthused withtheworldwidepress.
Brazilian women are kno-
comes from Africa, where we might consider someof the things done for beauty as strange. The Masai tribe is one example. This
wn around the world for
tribe’s men are much more
their beautiful skin. They
concerned about their hair
use sand to peel away the
than the women, who
dead skin cells more readi-
shave their heads. Throu-
ly and stimulate the blood
ghout the development of
flow. Carrot Juice is con-
a boy into a man, the tribe
sumed at alarming rate to
will shave a boy’s head up
help with tanning and skin
to four times. The head
glow. Carrot Juice stands
shavings start at 14 when
are regular features near
traditionally, boys become
the beaches and many wo-
men. The last time a man’s
man drink up to two glas-
head is shaved, the boy be-
ses a day. Apparently, the
comes a elder hunter in the
beta-carotene from carrots
tribe, with his wife shaving
accumulates in the subcu-
his head for the last time;
taneous fat just under your
symbolizing the boy’s en-
skin, creating coloration.
try into the tribe’s elite.
ANCIENT EGYPTIANS In the early years of Egyptian civilization, men grew out their beards along with the hair on their heads. Death masks and murals from this period depict men sporting full beards. Kings would braid their beards and dust them with gold powder. Some Egyptian men, like Rahotep, a Third Dynasty official, even rocked awesome mustaches.
and amazed Americans along
BRAZIL
KENYA Our first grooming habit
But the love of virile and natural body hair would quickly fade as Egyptian men embraced shaving with gusto at the start of the Dynastic Period. During this time, hair became seen as a symbol of man’s animalistic tendencies. Dynastic Egyptians eschewed facial hair, they still reverenced the beard as a symbol of divinity and power.
MESOPOTAMIANS
THE GREEKS
Ancient men living between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers devoted a lot of time and attention to the care of their beards. The Assyrians, Sumerians, and Phoenicians all grew long, thick, and luxurious beards. None of that fake Egyptian beard stuff for these gents. Upper-class men dyed their beards with henna and powdered them with gold-dust.
The Ancient Greeks were a people of the beard. For them, a beard was a sign of virility, manhood, and wisdom. In fact, according to Plutarch, when an ancient Greek boy began growing whiskers, it was the custom to dedicate the boy’s first beard to the sun god Apollo in a religious ritual. Greek boys were also not allowed to cut the hair on their heads until their beards started to grow.
10.2017
A LOOK THROUGH CULTURAL GROOMING RITUALS- BY
P.16
ELIANE LIMA KENYA
By 2019, the global shampoo market is expected to reach an estimated value of $25.73 billion. But deep in the mountains of southern China’s Guangxi province, the women of Huangluo Village won’t be contributing a single dime to the industry– because apparently, it’s not worth it … (sorry L’Oréal). For the Yao minority of ethnic women, hair is their most prized possession. The ancient settlement is known across China as the “Long Hair Village” and is even recognised by the Guinness world book of records as the “world’s longest hair village”. They grow their jet black hair up to 2.1 meters (6.8 feet) long, and manage to keep it looking strong and healthy (and free of greys) well into their old age.
JAPAN In Japan, there’s a facial that will have most of us being extra careful about our next visit to the spa. Called the Geisha Facial, the ingredients consist of the Japanese bush
THAILAND
warbler’s excrement and rice
Only small fraction of the
bran. In Japanese, the con-
Kayan, or more precisely
coction is called uguisu no
their women and girls,
fun (an appropriate English
wear the brass neck-rings
phrase as well!), which me-
(it is actually one long spi-
ans nightingale feces. The
ral), which depresses their
mixture smells like medicine
shoulders and therefore
to some while others detect
cause the woman’s neck
no smell. With most birds,
to look longer. This gave
their poop is high in uric
the people their unflatte-
acid, but the Japanese bush
ring nickname the ’long
wabler’s poop also has nitro-
necks’. In Thailand, the
gen-rich urea and guanine: an
Kayan refugees became
amino acid.
a tourist attraction and are surrounded by many myths and half-truths.
ROMANS
GERMANIC TRIBES
THE HINDUS
To distinguish themselves from their Greek cousins, the Ancient Romans were clean-shaven folk. A young man’s first shave was an important event in his life and was ritualized in an elaborate religious ceremony. Young men would keep growing their peach fuzz until they reached the age of majority. On their birthday, they would shave while family and friends watched. The whiskers would then be placed in a special box and consecrated to a Roman deity.
In the German frontiers of ancient Rome lived barbarian tribes who grew some of the fiercest beards in history. The mostly beardless ancient Romans were both afraid of and fascinated by Germanic beards. We learn from the Roman historian Tacitus that it was customary for a young Germanic man to make a vow to never cut his hair or beard until he had killed an enemy. Later Germanic tribes had a similar beard vow. Defeated Saxons vowed to never cut their hair or beards until they were avenged.
While beard-growing was the norm for many Hindu sects, some practiced a first shave ritual similar to the ancient Romans. According to the Grihya Sutra, a collection of ritual texts that outlined the rites a Hindu was to perform in his home, a boy was to receive his first shave when he turned sixteen. Known as the Godanakaruman, this ceremonial first shave was performed by a local barber. The face as well as the head were to be razored clean.
EARLY CHRISTIANS While the ancient Jews and Muslims were commanded not to shave off their beards, the acceptability of beards among the early Christians waxed and waned. Sometimes beards were seen as symbols of piety — other times as diabolic. In the faith’s early days, the beard took on the former meaning. A man who decided to devote himself to a monastic life would often undergo an initiatory first shave (in addition to the tonsure — the cutting of the hair on the crown of the head) that was observed by the other monks in the monastery.
BEYOND IMAGINATION
ELEMENTARY BEARD
WHERE DO BEARDS COME FROM? Growing a beard has been a sign of manliness since the dawn of time. Scientist believe prehistoric men had beards for warmth and keeping sensitive mouth skin safe from elements. Also the beard would intimidate through a thicker, stronger-looking jaw line. Curiously the beard in preshistoric times could be used as protection and cushion from punches or dull blows in the face. In Ancient civilizations the beard were a sign of honor and were only cut as punishment. Around 345 B.C, Alexander the Great decreed that soldiers could not have beards, his fears was that the enemies would pull their beards in battle. Since then, beards have regurlarly cycled in and out of fashion separating the men from boys for centuries. Among Celtic tribes men like Otto the great swore by his beard when saying anything serious. Not far fro there, in the Middle Ages, touching another man’s beard was offensive and grounds for a duel. Some time later, during the the 19th Century, the president Lincoln made beards popular for all americans. A little sooner arounde the 16th Century, new beards like the forked beard and the stiletto beard emerged.
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DIHYDROTESTOSTERONE Also known as androstanolone or stanolone, is an endogenous androgen sex steroid and hormone. The enzyme 5a-reductase catalyzes the formation of DHT from testosterone in certain tissues including the prostate gland, seminal vesicles, epididymides, skin, hair follicles, liver, and brain.
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TESTOSTERONE Testosterone is the primary male sex hormone and an anabolic steroid. In male humans, testosterone plays a key role in the development of male reproductive tissues such as the testis and prostate, as well as promoting secondary sexual characteristics such as increased muscle and bone mass, and the growth of body hair.
SUMMARY ILLUSTRATION, GIULIANO OLIVEIRA
CAPA: BENVENUTO IN FAMIGLIA P.22
EDITION, EDUARDO WEHLBRINK
THROUGHT NEW PERSPECTIVES P.26
STORY, THAÍS AVILA
REPORTING
ELIANE LIMA
ILLUSTRATION GIULIANO OLIVEIRA EDITION EDUARDO WEHLBRINK DESIGN
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CAROLINE SOARES
BENVENUTO IN Famiglia WELCOME TO THE FAMILY! MEET THE NEW YORK MAFIA FAMILIES AND THEIR INTRIGUES
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Originallyfrom the DAILY NEWS, October 26 1957.
“The vivid image of a helpless victim swathed in white towels was stamped in the public memory.” The curious murdering of a mafia member, Albert Anastasia.
ASSASSINATION AT THE BARBERSHOP In the 1950s, New York City youth gangs’ ethnicities ranged from Black, Irish, Puerto Rican to Italian. Some of the individual members of the gangs were from different races such as Dominican, Cuban, German and Polish. This page takes a look at Italian youth gangs and their relationship to the Mafia. Some of the Italian gangs through-out the city that I have researched are the Golden Guineas, Sand Street Angels, Mayrose, Jackson Gents, South Brooklyn Boys, Fulton & Rockaway Boys and the Red Wings. In some cases, the youth gang almost served as a feeder into the Mafia. Of course not anyone could work with the Mafia, only boys who were smart or tough enough were asked to be involved. As they grew up, the boys were observed by the mobsters as they rubbed shoulders in pool rooms and bars scattered across the city. If anyone showed promise, the mobsters took mental notes and eventually asked the person in question to help him in activities like running numbers and making collections. Another ex-
ample of a member of the Mafia starting his career of crime in youth gangs is that of Carmine Persico. Persico is currently the boss of the Colombo family and is in jail serving a 139 year sentence for murder, extortion, illegal gambling, racketeering and loan sharking. He began his life of crime when he dropped out of high school and joined either the Garfield Boys or South Brooklyn Boys – depending on who you ask. His splash into crime was much more serious than the robberies and rumbles Lino was involved in with the Avenue U Boys. Persico was arrested for his role in the fatal beating of a rival gang member in Prospect Park in 1951, but charges against him were dropped. Persico received a reputation in the neighbourhood for beating the charges and a soldier from the Profaci crime family, seeing promise in Persico, invited him to assist with his illegal activities. Persico became a made man in the Colombo family at the very young age of 25, eventually becoming the boss of the family. Look at barbershop murdering.
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Probably one of the most famous mob hits was on Albert Anastasia, the leader of the Murder Inc division of the Mafia who were responsible for hundreds of hits. Picture the setting, Anastasia is in a barbers chair at the Park Sheraton Hotel on 870 7th Avenue (which is now renamed to the Park Central Hotel on 56th and 7th Avenue). Strangely his bodyguard took a walk (whether Anastasia knew this or not is unclear, was he in on the hit, or was it genuine). Out of nowhere two men rushed the shop in scarves and rang out a tirade of bullets at Anastasia as he sat there. Some documentaries have said that the shots were knocked him out of his chair but this isn’t true. Anastasia actually got up out of the chair and charged at the men, unfortunately what he saw in the moment of panic and confusion was the reflection of the men in the Barber’s mirror. The biggest association to this crime is Joey Gallo, who was said to lead a team of hitmen on orders from Genovese and Gambino. However there are theories that are against this one, that say why would a Profaci member kill Anastasia. After all Joe Profaci allied with Anastasia on the Commission against Genovese, Costello, and Lucchese.
THE FIVE NEW YORK ITALIAN FAMILIES Seen as the dominant and most powerful force in the New York mafia, and has been nicknamed the “Rolls-Royce” of organised crime. Named after former boss Vito Genovese, the family is thought to have had no fixed leader since the 2005 death of Vincent Gigante, known as “the Oddfather” because he faked insanity by wandering the streets in a bath robe.
Thought to operate from New York to California, and was once held to be the most powerful mafia family in America In 1992 senior family under-boss Sammy Gravano agreed to co-operate with federal agents and helped to bring down then-boss John Gotti along with several other senior members. The family’s leadership crumbled due to a series of arrests and deaths over the following decades, leaving a power vacuum behind.
The newest of the Five Families, the Colombo crime family was originally founded in 1928 but underwent three internal wars during the 20th century. Named after Joseph “Joe C” Columbo, who united the family after the first war in the 1960s, two further power struggles resulted in the deaths of several members and irreparable differences which led on to several criminal convictions through informants.
Named after founder Joseph “Joe Bananas” Bonanno, was the first to be thrown off the Commission, a gathering of family bosses aimed at maintaining relationships within the mafia, amid allegations of involvement in heroin dealing and infighting between close family members. The family suffered a major indignity in 1981 when it emerged that an undercover FBI agent using the alias Donnie Brasco had been gathering information on the family from the inside for six years.
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Named after 1950s boss Tommy “Three-Finger Brown” Lucchese, who united with the Gambino family to gain a monopoly over mob activities in New York City, the family was once one of the most powerful crime gangs in America. But it was torn apart after boss Anthony “Two Ducks” Corallo was arrested in 1986, naming Vittorio “Vic” Amuso and Anthony Casso to take his place.
DESIGN CAROLINE SOARES
EDITIONEDUARDO WEHLBRINK
PHOTOS FRANK BOHBOT
“The subject must be thought of in terms of the 20th century, of houses he lives in and places he works, in terms of the kind of light the windows in these places let through and by which we see him every day,” Arnold Newman, widely regarded as the father of environmental photography, once said.
A photo session that shows the essence of one of the oldest and most renowned professions in the world, and it’s environment, through the lens of the great photographer Frank Bohbot.
THROUGHT NEW PERSPECTIVES
A portrait, by these standards, becomes a kind of anthropological time capsule, the condensation of an era into a photographic exercise in biographical naturalism. Person and place are whittled down to a single illuminated moment in which the framing environment seems to blossom from the subject, an extension of his or her unseen interiority.
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Like the locations in Bohbot’s previous photographic studies, barbershops represent iconic sites of urban refuge &mdash some appearing as fortresses immune to the passage of time, others demonstrating the erratic evolution of an age-old profession. All serve as a social nexus point for the surrounding community young and old, and in this way come to physically embody the neighborhoods where they reside.
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From Crown Heights to Spanish Harlem, each of these shops unites the personal with the interpersonal, exhibiting evidence of its local history, culture, and clientele in the form of distinctive décor, services, and of course, the face of the business, the barber himself. Bohbot’s work inhabits a space between reality and fantasy, documenting and storytelling, every frame – to borrow a phrase from Nan Goldin – like a still from a nonexistent film. Continuity here is categorical; as with the flow of barbershop gossip, narrativity is fragmented and secured within each scene.
NOW YOU HAVE READ THE MAGAZINE, GET OUT OF THE SOFA ARE YOU STILL NOT CONVINCEND ABOUT THE CHANGES IN THE MODELING INDUSTRY?
BARBER MUSEUM A great place to learn interestings facts about this profession and its progress during the ages. nationalbarbermuseum.org
WANT MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE HISTORY OF THE BARBER PROFESSION?
THE RICHEST An website which brings together curious facts through lists of weird grooming habits around the world. therichest.com
WHAT IF YOU COULD ACCESS MORE ODD GROOMING HABITS?
FRANCK BOHBOT An inspiring photographer who always tries to explore new sights of the daily life and mundane. His portfolio brings more about these mesmerizing work. franckbohbot.com
KAMYLE KASELYTE This renowned and young fashion designer, tell us about her experience on the fashion industry and aware us about its fake stereotypes sold to the people. theurbanwatch.com
“IT’S ME OR THE BEARD!”
BLOODY TRUTH
Today, beards are still manly, but fewer and fewer women can handle them.
The barber-surgeon’s pole actually originated from the rod that the poor patient grasped in order to make their veins bulge – this made it easier to cut or slice open. The brass ball at the top represented the basin that was used to collect the blood. The red and white stripes symbolised the blood soaked bandages, which would be washed then hung to dry
About 33% of american males have facial hair.
Did not fit in the main story so...
DO YOU FEEL LIKE GIVING A “SHERLOCK HOLMES” ABOUT THE ANASTASIA’S INCIDENT?
About 55% of males worldwide have facial hair.
DID YOU THINK BOHBOT’S WORK WAS OVER?
DAILY NEWS Stay within all the details of that uncanny murderous case. Understand every point behind Anastasia murder. nydailynews.com
on the rod outside the shop. The bandages would often twist in the wind, and this forms the spiral pattern we see on the barber poles of today.