R E M A R K A B L E R EC I P E S from a C H I C AG O L EG E N D
MAUREEN SCHULMAN • ELANA SCHULMAN • TARA LANE DIANA MOLES • JOLENE WORTHINGTON
Welcome to the fortieth-anniversary edition of the Eli’s Cheesecake Cookbook: Remarkable Recipes from a Chicago Legend. Technically, 2021 marks our forty-first year, but we’re taking a much-needed do-over on 2020. Six years ago, we wrote the original cookbook with the intent to capture the “Eli magic”: the excitement of Eli Schulman’s restaurants and bakery and the uniquely delicious recipes that made them famous. Stories, photos, and food took you on a historical ride through the lens of Eli’s colorful career and ultimate rise to restaurateur and baker extraordinaire. Eli’s larger-than-life personality, generous spirit, and great food made Eli’s The Place For Steak a pillar of Chicago’s culinary community and a place to see and be seen. It was in the restaurant’s kitchen that he developed what is now one of the nation’s most famous desserts: Eli’s “Chicago-style” cheesecake, known for its rich, creamy texture and all-butter shortbread cookie crust. In addition to offering up the most requested recipes from Eli’s classic steakhouse in the first edition, we did our best to teach you how to make the perfect cheesecake and understand the science behind it. Armed with thirty-five years of experience, we wanted you to feel confident in the kitchen and sufficiently prepared so if something went a little bit awry, you’d know why and how to correct it.
left to right: Jolene Worthington, Diana Moles, Maureen Schulman, and Tara Lane, first edition authors
left to right: Maureen Schulman, Diana Moles, and Elana Schulman, second edition authors
This second edition of The Eli’s Cheesecake Cookbook is just as much a labor of love as the first. We’ve added new recipes, stories, and photos in every section. In addition to the classics featured in our original cookbook, our new edition features even more cheesecake recipes: Basque, Cherry Vanilla, Hawaiian, Carrot Cake Cheesecake, and Holiday Cheesecake Dippers—one of Oprah’s Favorite Things. You’ll also find more signature dishes from Eli’s The Place For Steak: Chicken Vesuvio, Pepper Steak, Corned Beef Hash, Potato Pancakes, and French Onion Soup. There’s an entirely new section devoted to our beloved Eli’s Cheesecake family, as team members from around the world share their favorite family recipes. You won’t find a clearer message that food represents home and love than in these inspiring stories. And yes, there are more historic and new photos, ranging from Eli baking in the Army during World War II to the incredible giant cake we made for the Broadway in Chicago engagement of Hamilton: An American Musical. Since the printing of the original cookbook, I’m delighted to announce that our daughter Elana Schulman has joined Eli’s, representing the third generation of the Schulman family. She has coauthored this second edition with Chef Diana Moles and me.
Thank you for continuing this ride through Eli’s history. —Maureen Schulman
CONTENTS foreword by Rick Kogan.............................................................................. 11
Eli’s Story and Commentary by Maureen Schulman............................... 18 Eli’s The Place For Steak by Marc Schulman. . ........................................... 32 The Stories that Made Us, The Recipes that Shaped Us......................... 80 Eli’s Delicious Desserts.............................................................................. 125
Pure, Plain, and Simple: The One that Started It All...................... 126
Batters. . .................................................................................................. 137 Crusts..................................................................................................... 177
Finishing Touches: Chocolates, Caramels, and Compotes.............. 187
Putting It All Together.. ........................................................................ 202
Celebratory Cakes Big and Small. . ..................................................... 299
acknowledgments...................................................................................... 329 index............................................................................................................. 330 about the authors..................................................................................... 335 opposite: Elana and Marc Schulman on their daily walk around the bakery floor.
Eli’s The Place For Steak BY MARC
PROVERB INSIDE MENU:
SCHULMAN
Great food always, at a profit if we can, at a loss if we must.
“Love is the name of the game. I love people. Without people, I would be nobody. And my mother taught me, ‘Charity will never bust you.’” —Eli Schulman My dad, Eli Schulman, was known as the Salami Surgeon during his days at Eli’s Stage Delicatessen. The Deli was such a popular hangout among the singles of the ’60s that my dad would often plop a parking meter on tables that had been occupied for too long. He’d gleefully announce “Your time is up!” once they overstayed their welcome. He could also be overheard telling the occasional lingering customer to “take it to go” as he transferred the contents of his or her coffee mug into a Styrofoam cup.
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above: The swinging '60s from left: Eli Schulman,
bar scene at Eli's The Place For Steak
Pete Filippelli, Les Hoffman, and Walter Babian
opposite, from left:
Eli with Barbara and Frank Sinatra at Eli’s; law student Marc with Eli at the restaurant.
Seen every Monday night at Table 30: President of the Cook County Board George Dunne and local politician Ira Colitz, in this photo joined by Eli. There were always others hoping to get some business done.
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Chicken Vesuvio The experience that food writers Michael and Jane Stern shared one evening at Eli’s captures the intimate and magical vibe that made the restaurant such a draw for tourists and locals alike. The Sterns were visiting the city and went on a hunt for the celebrated Chicago dish chicken Vesuvio. Many believe it is named after the Mount Vesuvius volcano near Naples, Italy, but it’s said to have originated at the Vesuvio Restaurant in Chicago in the 1920s. In an article published in Gourmet magazine in April 2000, the Sterns called Eli’s “an urbane Gold Coast steak house with a Jewish accent ... just the sort of mature place to find Chicago’s dishes in all their glory.” After being seated in the “small, privileged dining room, near Eli’s regular and Chicago Sun-Times columnist Irv Kupcinet, the Sterns asked their server if they could order chicken Vesuvio and were told that it wasn’t available. They explained that they were out-of-towners and that they “yearned to try this true Chicago meal.” The server said, “I regret to say we don’t have it,” but then retreated to the kitchen to see what he could do. The couple barely had time “to spread a slice of fresh pumpernickel with chopped liver, crumbled egg, and onion, before they heard the waiter’s enthusiastic voice announce, ‘We will make chicken Vesuvio!’ so loud that the patrons at the next table looked up from their plates of calf ’s liver they were eating.” In their review, the Sterns went on to say: The custom-made Vesuvio is nothing short of wondrous. Piled onto a big round plate is nearly a whole chicken, cut in pieces, cooked in white wine, garlic, and herbs until falling-apart tender, its skin roasted to savory ambrosia. The meat is intertwined with large segments of potato, also spangled with herbs. Some lengths of spud are so supple that they seem to pour along the pile of chicken like rivulets of molten lava and must be gathered with a fork and knife; others are cooked so brittle-crisp you can pick them up like steak fries. The dining room captain, other waiters, and a handful of knowing diners all watch the arrival of the chicken Vesuvio with awe, and they beam when we cannot contain our exclamations of pleasure as we begin to work our way through this magnificent meal. After we finish supper and walk toward the door, Irv Kupcinet raises a glass to salute us. At the door, the maitre d’ asks if we found the dish satisfactory. “Perfect!” we answer. “It was the chicken Vesuvio of our dreams.” “I made sure of that,” he says with pride. “I was in the kitchen, watching.”
—SOURCE: JANE AND MICHAEL STERN, “THE PAST ON A PLATE,” GOURMET, APRIL 2000.
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Potato Pancakes YIELD: ABOUT 20
“A potato latke is a potato pancake with a poor man’s pedigree, a history, a tradition, and a neshamah, a soul.” —Phyllis Glazer, Los Angeles Times. For most of Eli’s The Place For Steak’s thirty-nine-year history, potato pancakes, or latkes as they are sometimes called, were not listed on the menu. That means if you saw someone eating those delicious, “crispy, crunchy patties of real potatoes and onions” (Patricia Tennison, Chicago Tribune), it was because they were either friends with Eli and he’d sent over an order to their table, or they were regulars who knew about the secret menu. Well, now the secret’s out.
3B⁄c pounds russet potatoes, peeled, halved, and quartered lengthwise 1 small (5-ounce) yellow onion 1 cup all-purpose flour 4 large eggs 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley 1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste B⁄c teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste 1 cup vegetable oil Applesauce and sour cream, for serving 1. Using a food processor fitted with the grater attachment or a box grater, grate the potatoes. Wrap the grated potatoes in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze tightly to remove most of the liquid; leave a little moisture in to help the cooking process. Transfer the potatoes to a large, clean mixing bowl. 2. Repeat the same process with the onion and add the grated onion to the bowl containing the potatoes. 3. Add the flour, eggs, parsley, salt, and black pepper to the bowl and thoroughly mix with your hands. Use a 1/3-cup scoop to measure out the potato mixture. Form each into a 1/2-inch-thick patty about 3 to 4 inches wide and place the patties on a clean surface. 4. In a large skillet over medium heat, warm the oil to 375°F. Working in batches, carefully lower the prepared patties into the hot oil (use a spatula or serving spoon to prevent burns from splashing oil). Cook, flipping once, for about 8 minutes, until golden and crisp all over. Using a fish spatula, transfer the cooked potato pancakes to a cooling rack fitted over a baking sheet (or a baking sheet lined with paper towels to absorb excess oil) and season with additional salt as desired. Tent with foil to keep warm while you fry the remaining pancakes. Repeat until all the patties have been cooked. 5. Serve immediately with the applesauce and sour cream.
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ELIAS KASONGO Senior Director of Purchasing
Chicago was Elias Kasongo’s first destination after fleeing his homeland, the Congo. In 1990, Elias, a freshman at the University of Lubumbashi, participated in a peaceful pro-democracy demonstration on the university campus that quickly devolved into violence between President Mobutu Sese Seko’s security forces and the students. Hundreds of students were killed or jailed, and many of Elias’s friends were gunned down. Elias ran as fast as he could to his grandmother’s house nearby. Once there, he planned an escape to Zambia and embraced her for the last time. It took two days for Elias to cross the border; he ran through the bushes at night and hid behind them during the day. With nowhere else to go, Elias went to a refugee camp and remained there, with barely any food to eat, for four years. Elias’s lucky day came in 1994, when he was chosen to leave the camp and come to America. He was sponsored by RefugeeOne, an organization that resettles refugees and immigrants in Chicago. Once he arrived, his caseworker gave him Jolene Worthington’s business card, and the rest is history.
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Elias, then twenty-six, spoke no English upon his arrival in the United States. He began working at Eli’s in the dish room and enrolled in a nearby community college to learn English. As he became fluent, he progressed to roles in making crusts, sanitation, and prep cooking. In 2000, Elias began working in Eli’s front office, first as an assistant. Over the next two decades, he has moved from there to an assistant buyer position and then again to his current role, Senior Director of Purchasing. “Every position that I held helped me to move to the next position,” Elias said. “It’s a challenge. There is always a demand to find a solution to the problem that exists. The most fulfilling and joyful [part] for me is when I can overcome obstacles [and achieve] a positive result for the customer.” Elias had never planned to go into business management, but he said, “When I started in purchasing, I realized I liked it.” Elias pursued and received a bachelor’s degree from Northeastern University, as Eli’s allowed him to tweak his hours so he could work around his class schedule. On a two-week vacation to Zambia to visit his parents, he met Lucy, the woman who would become his wife. In the beginning, their continental separation gave new meaning to the phrase “long-distance relationship.” They wrote letters and talked on the phone for two years until Lucy moved to Chicago, where they were married. Today, Elias and Lucy have three kids, Emanuel, John, and Hannah. The boys enjoy helping out at the Eli’s retail store and at dock sales and big events, like the Taste of Chicago and the annual Eli’s Cheesecake Festival. The Kasongos are all music lovers who sing and play instruments, and they perform individually and also as a band. They love Christian and reggae music; their favorite musician is Lucky Dube, a reggae musician from South Africa. Elias has continued his relationship with RefugeeOne. He said, “Giving back is very, very important. I am here today because somebody else gave.” Today, he is a board member of the organization. He explained, “I know exactly what the people coming to the United States are going through, so I can be helpful in that way.” Many more refugees have come to Eli’s because of Elias. He said, “I know firsthand that they will be treated well, and that Eli’s culture offers the opportunity to grow.” Elias considers the bakery not just his workplace, but his second family. He and many of his coworkers have remained at Eli’s for more than 20 years because they feel appreciated and included. Founder Eli Schulman’s mantra was, “Charity will never bust you, and treat others as if you were the other.” Elias has felt those values throughout his time at Eli’s. He said, “If you have respect for others, you will receive respect in return. The fact that so many people have stayed
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so long, that by itself shows that Eli’s has done something right. Eli’s president, Marc Schulman, shows he really cares every day.” Elias cited as examples Marc’s arrangement of on-site influenza and COVID-19 vaccinations for employees and the free lunches for all employees that Marc began during the pandemic and will continue afterward, adding, “Who would shut down the retail store when they had the chance to open it? He did that to protect the health of the employees. There is a financial impact to that, but he cares more about his people than his profits.” When he was interviewed, Elias was looking forward to the end of the pandemic, when Eli’s would be back in full swing with what it does best: “Providing a happy atmosphere, with lots of people coming in and having lots of events and big cakes.” For his contribution to the cookbook, Elias chose a sweet treat he often enjoyed in the Congo, vitumbua, a fried dough sprinkled with sugar. His wife, Lucy, makes it for all of their special occasions, dinner parties, birthdays, and church functions. Elias said, “When we were growing up, if Grandma came over to see the grandchildren and gave us a penny or a dollar, the first thing we did was buy vitumbua.”
Vitumbua (Puff Puffs) YIELD: 24 TO 36 PUFF PUFFS
2 cups all-purpose flour B⁄c cup granulated sugar, plus more for dusting 1 tablespoon baking powder B⁄c teaspoon salt 1 cup water Honey, for drizzling (optional) 1. In a large mixing bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Using a small whisk, integrate the water into the mixture until it forms into a dough. 2. Warm the oil in a heavy-bottomed 3-quart saucepan over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Using a small spoon or an ice cream scoop dipped in oil, carefully scoop the dough into balls and add them to the hot oil; you should be able to make 5 at a time. Fry on each side (use wooden dowels or long spoons to turn the dough balls in the oil) until the dough balls turn golden brown. Using a small strainer, remove the puffs from the oil and place them on a platter lined with paper towels to drain. 3. Transfer the puffs from the platter to a serving basket lined with parchment paper. Dust them lightly with the granulated sugar or drizzle with the honey. Serve immediately.
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VLORA AND BASHKIM MORINA Second-Shift Packaging Leader and Crust Leader
When they first fled their war-torn homeland of Kosovo, neither Vlora nor Bashkim Morina could ever have imagined their journey would lead them to a bakery in Chicago. The two had not yet met when they both escaped the war. At the tender age of nineteen, Bashkim saw many of his friends being literally pulled out of their homes and forced to join the Serbian army. Some were later jailed or killed because of their ethnic background. Bashkim decided to flee to Switzerland. He applied for and received political asylum, but getting there wasn’t easy. He knew that if he could secure a visa to Slovenia, it would allow him entry into Italy. From there, he says, “I was just lucky that the police didn’t check my train to Switzerland.” He returned to Kosovo after the war ended. Vlora fled to the safety of her uncle’s home in Bosnia for the duration of the war. Afterward, she too returned to Kosovo. Her father had escaped to the Netherlands during the war, but he later settled in Chicago. In 2002, he applied for and received visas for Vlora and her four siblings to join him in the Windy City.
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Once they arrived, the siblings enrolled in school and Vlora set out to find a full-time job so she could apply for a visa for her mother to join them. Her first stop was the International Organization for Migration, where she, like so many others, was given Jolene Worthington’s card and told of possible opportunities at the bakery. Within a few short weeks, Vlora was working on the packaging line at Eli’s. Three years later, Vlora planned a trip back home to Kosovo. A Chicago friend who knew she was headed there for a visit decided to introduce her to his friend, Bashkim, by phone. He figured that if they hit it off, they could plan to meet in person during Vlora’s trip. It was love at first sight. By the end of her month-long vacation, Vlora and Bashkim were engaged. She returned to Kosovo for their wedding a year later, but once again, she had to return to Chicago alone. Two more years passed before Vlora’s husband and mother could join her in Chicago. When Bashkim first arrived, he spoke no English, and he missed his family in Kosovo. Nonetheless, he started working in the crust room at Eli’s right away. He said, “Eli’s Cheesecake—Marc, Jolene, and Jeff [Anderson, Eli’s Senior VP of Operations]—were like my parents, like when a baby needs help to start walking. Eli’s helped me to start walking again. I had to ask for help for everything, and everyone helped me. Most of the English [Vlora and I learned], we learned here at work. Everything Vlora and I learned about the US, we learned at Eli’s.” Today, Bashkim is now the team leader in the crust room. Of moving to the United States and missing home, Bashkim said, “It’s hard when you don’t have a big family.” Vlora added, “Eli’s was our family and helped us grow up.” Vlora is now a team leader as well, in packaging. Vlora and Bashkim have two sons, aged seven and nine. As a family, they enjoy biking, basketball, and soccer. On Sundays, Vlora often makes a spiral savory pie of pita with spinach, and for birthdays and special occasions, she makes another family favorite, trileçe cake, a dessert recipe handed down from both Vlora’s and Bashkim’s mothers. This traditional carameltopped Albanian trileçe uses more milk than similar versions found in other parts of the world (such as Mexico’s tres leches cake), so it has a much softer texture. For Vlora and Bashkim, this dessert brings back fond memories from their childhoods in Kosovo of making the cake together as a family, especially during bayrams, a Turkish term for nationally celebrated festivals or holidays.
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Basque Cheesecake YIELD: 1 (8-INCH) SPRINGFORM CHEESECAKE PAN / 12 SERVINGS
“Hey, Eli, you burned the cake!” Eli Schulman heard that often when he was serving up the first cheesecakes made in the kitchen of Eli’s The Place For Steak. That “burnt” look, including a few cracks, was intentional: it is the caramelization that results from his unconventional recipe, which involves no water bath and a fast-and-hot baking method. Every time, the cakes get a lovely golden brown appearance on the outside and a rich and creamy consistency on the inside. Fast forward forty years, and that comment became a huge compliment: the New York Times named Basque Burnt Cheesecake its 2021 “Flavor of the Year.” Was Eli a trend setter or what? So we’re turning up the heat and making a perfectly imperfect riff on Eli’s Original Plain Cheesecake inspired by a beloved dessert from the Basque region of Spain. Even more caramelization in this recipe creates a beautifully burnished appearance with such a luxurious texture, we’re calling it Eli’s “Spanish cousin!”
Shopping List For the Shortbread Crust:
1B⁄c sticks (12 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter B⁄c cup confectioners’ sugar B⁄c teaspoon salt B⁄e teaspoon vanilla extract 1B⁄c cups all-purpose flour For the Basque batter:
D⁄e cup granulated sugar B⁄e cup cake flour B⁄c teaspoon salt 2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, room temperature 3 large whole eggs 1 cup heavy whipping cream (36% fat) 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Special Tools:
Vegetable oil 1 (3-inch by 26-inch) strip parchment paper 1 half sheet pan or flat baking sheet
Eli poses with one of his signature "burnt" cakes
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Cherry Vanilla Cheesecake YIELD: 1 (9-INCH) ROUND SPRINGFORM CHEESECAKE PAN
On Diana Moles’ very first day at Eli’s, she was asked to make cherry vanilla cheesecakes. “I was given 140 cheesecake pans with crusts, which needed to be topped with 14 ounces of cherry filling [each] before pouring on the batter,” she remembered. Like magic, Diana put her gloved hand in the cherry filling and scooped out exactly 14 ounces every time. She even weighed it for accuracy, and it was spot on every time. After working at a neighborhood bakeshop for eight years, she had been trained to weigh ingredients using her hands, so a task that took most people four hours took her ten minutes. She felt a little bit like she was a contestant on a Food Network show. “Jolene [Worthington] saw a lot in me on that first day,” Diana said, recalling how she considered it a turning point. Jolene made her a promise, the same one she made to everyone she hired at Eli’s: “If you work hard, we are going to offer you the world, and you will have success.” Jolene took Diana under her wing. By the Diana Moles, Senior Vice President of Innovation end of her first year, she had been Employee of the Month and Employee of the Year, and she was promoted to Decorating Supervisor. Now the Senior Vice President of Innovation, Diana says of her 36 years at Eli’s, “Every promotion, every level, it’s all been fun and challenging. It flies by so fast because every day is exciting and dynamic. No two days are the same.” Cherry Vanilla will always have a special place in Diana’s heart because, for her, it was the one that started it all. That’s why she wanted to include this recipe in the cookbook, but she also wanted to add a little bling to Eli’s original recipe. By folding in some vanilla bean paste, adding more cherries to the batter, and topping the cake with a decorative smear of cherries, this cheesecake goes to the next level.
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CHERRY VANILLA CHEESECAKE
(CONTINUED FROM PAGE 243)
Shopping List For the Shortbread Crust:
1B⁄c sticks (12 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter B⁄c cup confectioners’ sugar B⁄c teaspoon salt B⁄e teaspoon vanilla extract 1B⁄c cups all-purpose flour For the cherry vanilla batter:
1 (20-ounce) can crushed pineapple 3 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, room temperature 1 cup granulated sugar B⁄e cup cake flour 2 tablespoons cornstarch B⁄c teaspoon salt 2 large whole eggs, room temperature B⁄c cup sour cream, room temperature 1 tablespoon pineapple extract (optional) For the tart cherry filling:
C⁄d cup granulated sugar 3 tablespoons cornstarch B⁄c teaspoon powdered fruit pectin B⁄e cup water 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 16 ounces frozen tart red cherries
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1. Prepare the Shortbread Crust (see recipe on p. 178) in a greased 9-inch springform pan. Follow the recipe as directed. 2. Prepare the Cherry Vanilla batter (see recipe on p. 141). Follow the recipe as directed, including reserving ½ cup of the Tart Cherry Filling (see recipe on p. 199) for topping the cake. 3. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Generously grease and flour the springform pan (see Trade Secret on p. 136). Fill the springform pan with the Cherry Vanilla batter. Using an offset spatula, smooth down the batter until it is level. 4. In the bowl of a small food processor, chop the reserved ½ cup Tart Cherry Filling until the cherries have partially broken up. Gently place the reserved Tart Cherry Filling on top of the batter and spread it evenly across the top. 5. Place the filled springform pan in the center of the oven, directly on the middle shelf. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Give the cake a gentle shake. The baking time is complete if the center of the cake jiggles slightly and is firm to the touch. Once the cake is done, turn off the oven and leave the cake inside for 10 minutes more with the door open. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. 6. Loosen the cheesecake from the springform pan by sliding an offset spatula around the inside ring. Remove the springform pan from the cake and transfer to a serving plate. Refrigerate 8 hours or overnight. 7. Transfer to the freezer for 2 to 3 hours before slicing. 8. Slice the cake with a thin, nonserrated knife that is dipped in hot water and wiped dry after each slice. Serve immediately or store in the freezer well wrapped for up to 3 months.
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LEMON CHEESECAKE TART WITH BLUEBERRIES (CONTINUED FROM PAGE 273)
1. Prepare the Blueberry Compote (see recipe on p. 194). Follow the recipe as directed and store in the refrigerator until ready for use. 2. Prepare the Brown Sugar Streusel (see recipe on p. 183). Follow the recipe as directed. 3. Prepare the Lemon batter (see recipe on p. 166). Follow the recipe as directed. 4. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Fill the fluted tart pan with the Lemon batter. 5. Place the fluted tart pan in the center of the oven, directly on the middle shelf. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the cake is slightly firm to the touch (this is a shallow cake, so it shouldn’t jiggle much). Remove from the oven and set aside to cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. 6. Refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight to completely set before serving. 7. Before serving, pour the Blueberry Compote on the center of the cake. Using the back of a wooden spoon or a silicone offset spatula, spread the compote evenly over the top of the cake, being careful not to spread over the cake’s edge. 8. Slice the tart with a thin, nonserrated knife that is dipped in hot water and wiped dry after each slice. Serve immediately.
You can use any berry at all to make a compote with the Quick Apricot Glaze.
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Peanut Butter and Jelly Cheesecake YIELD: 1 (8-INCH) ROUND SPRINGFORM CHEESECAKE PAN / 12 SERVINGS
photo credit: danny ramm
Joe Mantegna is so loved by the city where he was born and raised that a stretch of Armitage Avenue in Lincoln Park is named after him. We first met “Mr. Chicago” in November 1994, when he returned to his hometown to film “Baby’s Day Out,” and we were looking for celebrities to ride in the Magnificent Mile Lights Festival Parade, a holiday tradition founded by Marc Schulman forty years ago and still going strong today. Alongside his wife Arlene and daughters Mia and Gia, Joe helped us light up Michigan Avenue for the holidays, block by glittering block. The love affair with Chicago is mutual: for 15 years, Joe and Arlene brought Chicago’s favorite foods to Los Angeles at their restaurant Taste Chicago, where you could watch a Cubs game and grab an Italian beef, a deep-dish pizza, a Chicago dog, and of course, a slice of Eli’s Cheesecake. Speaking of the Cubs, Joe also conceived and co-wrote the play Bleacher Bums, inspired by countless hours of watching the team play at Wrigley Field. Who better to create an Eli’s Cheesecake than the Mantegnas, Chicagoans through and through? Joe devised the flavor for his cake in a very democratic fashion, saying, “I asked each member of the family to name their favorite ingredient. I wanted dark chocolate, Arlene liked blueberry, Mia said peanut butter, and Gia asked for a cherry on top”. Diana Moles, Eli’s Senior Vice President of Innovation, thought that sounded like a lot of ingredients for one cake, but innovate she did. Below is the result: the amazing Peanut Butter and Jelly Cheesecake, a peanut butter cheesecake on a delicious chocolate crust that’s chock full of chopped dark chocolate peanut butter cups and topped with a cherry and blueberry compote. R E C I PE C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 2 7 6
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PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY CHEESECAKE (CONTINUED FROM PAGE 275)
Shopping List For the Chocolate Crumb Crust:
1B⁄c cups (8 ounces) finely ground chocolate wafer crumbs B⁄e cup confectioners’ sugar B⁄e cup unsalted butter, melted For the peanut butter cup batter:
8 ounces dark chocolate peanut butter cups (approx. 28 miniature Reese’s peanut butter cups) 2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, room temperature D⁄e cup granulated sugar 2 tablespoons cake flour B⁄c teaspoon salt, or to taste 2 large whole eggs, room temperature B⁄c cup creamy peanut butter B⁄e cup sour cream, room temperature For the Cherry Blueberry Topping:
4 ounces apricot jam 1 tablespoon water 1 cup (7B⁄c ounces) fresh blueberries, rinsed, dried, and stems removed 2B⁄e cups (10 ounces) pitted fresh or frozen thawed Bing cherries B⁄c cup brandy or orange juice B⁄e cup granulated sugar
Arlene and Joe Mantegna with their daughters during the Magnificent Mile Lights Festival in November 1994
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photo credit: anna herbst
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Red Velvet Chocolate Chip Cheesecake YIELD: 1 (8-INCH) ROUND SPRINGFORM CHEESECAKE PAN / 12 SERVINGS
In the summer of 2016, the air was thick with excitement as an entire city counted down the days until the opening of the Broadway in Chicago production of Hamilton: An American Musical. We first met Miguel Cervantes when he arrived in Chicago to originate the role of Alexander Hamilton in September; he continued in the role until the Chicago production closed and now headlines the Broadway cast. During his four years here, Miguel and his family immersed themselves in Chicago’s culture and its civic community. In honor of their daughter, Adelaide, they became champions to find a cure for epilepsy through the organization CURE Epilepsy. Adelaide’s nickname, “Adelaidybug,” led Miguel, Kelly, and their son, Jackson, to come up with their cheesecake creation: Red Velvet Chocolate Chip Cheesecake, a cake that resembles the coloring of a ladybug. We are honored to count the Cervantes family among Eli’s fans. They’ve celebrated a few milestones with us, including a celebration of Eli’s Cheesecake’s thirty-ninth birthday at Taste of Chicago, the Hamilton wrap party, and an opportunity to have Jackson partake in a little family fun with our DIY cheesecake decorating kits at home. Miguel even performed with one of Eli’s favorite charities, The Happiness Club, shining a light on this exceptional group, which provides a free performing arts educational program for kids who hail largely from Chicago’s south and west sides.
Shopping List For the Chocolate Crumb Crust:
1B⁄c cups (8 ounces) finely ground chocolate wafer crumbs B⁄e cup confectioners’ sugar B⁄e cup unsalted butter, melted For the Red Velvet chocolate chip Cheesecake Batter:
3 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, room temperature 1 cup granulated sugar B⁄e cup cake flour B⁄e cup cocoa powder B⁄c teaspoon salt 2 large whole eggs, room temperature B⁄c cup sour cream, room temperature 1B⁄c tablespoons liquid red food coloring 1 teaspoon vanilla extract D⁄e cup bittersweet mini chocolate chips For the Garnish:
1 tablespoon mini chocolate chips (optional)
R E C I PE C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 2 8 4
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top: Eli’s Cheesecake is one of President Clinton’s favorite desserts! It was served at the White House and aboard Air Force
One. (Of course, now President Clinton is a vegan…but don’t worry, Eli’s makes vegan cheesecake, so we have him covered.) Eli’s made a 2,000-pound cheesecake for both of the Clinton inaugural celebrations in Washington, DC. Pictured here is the Queen of Soul, Aretha Franklin, cutting Clinton’s first Inaugural cheesecake at Reunion on the Mall. bottom, left: Haley and Kori serve up cake for the crowd. bottom, right: Eli’s fans line up for a piece of the big cake.
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The Eli’s Cheesecake Cookbook
clockwise from top left
In 2014, Eli’s Cheesecake welcomed the Today Show to Chicago! Shown are hosts Natalie Morales and Willie Geist. SNL’s Aidy Bryant with Elana, Marc, and Maureen Schulman for Michigan Avenue magazine’s cover party. This movie-themed cheesecake was designed for Siskel and Ebert’s 20th anniversary, held at the Steppenwolf Theater. Cutting the cake are (left to right) Martha Lavey, Alan Wilder, Gary Sinise, Joan Allen, Gene Siskel, Roger Ebert, Laurie Metcalf, and John Mahoney. Eli’s created a giant Wheel of Fortune cake for Vanna White and Pat Sajak when the game show filmed on location in Chicago. Also pictured: Maureen, Marc, and Elana Schulman. Kelsey Grammer, “Mayor of Chicago” on the Starz series Boss, cut the 1,500-pound cheesecake celebrating Chicago’s 175th birthday.
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Above: Scott Simon and
family with Mayor Rahm Emanuel in Chicago to celebrate the Cubs' World Series win and Scott's book My Cubs: A Love Story. Left: Marc Schulman, Rich
Melman, Ivan Matsunaga, and Rick Bayless celebrate the 100th anniversary of the National Restaurant Association show in Chicago. opposite, clockwise from top: Miguel Cervantes
and the Chicago cast of Hamilton at the musical's wrap party; funnyman Jim Gaffigan, known for his junk food humor, enjoys a giant cheesecake topped with his favorite foods, interpreted in cheesecake, as Maureen Schulman looks on; Abra Prentice Wilkin and Nena Ivan at the Costume Ball at the Chicago History Museum.
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COOKI N G — COU RS ES & DIS H ES / CAKES
$30
“Slice of Heaven . . . this cheesecake is perfection on a plate.” —Oprah Winfrey’s The O List, O, The Oprah Magazine
Celebrate one of America’s most famous desserts with this intimate collection of recipes, stories, and snapshots that reveal the story behind its rise to glory. This cookbook’s 100 recipes include more than 20 variations on Eli Schulman’s iconic Chicago-style cheesecake as well as favorite dishes from the legendary Eli’s The Place For Steak. Recipes for batters, crusts, and finishing touches allow readers to mix and match to create their own signature desserts. As Eli Schulman himself might say, “It’s a helluva book!”
Praise for Eli’s Cheesecake and The Eli’s Cheesecake Cookbook “The Eli’s Cheesecake Cookbook is a treat for the eyes and stokes our spirits. Its pages of history capture the heart of a great family and city. It features not only singular, classic Chicago recipes, from, of course, Eli’s Chicago Cheesecake, in a dizzying cavalcade of varieties, to Chicken Vesuvio and Pepper Steak. But running alongside these human, personal stories of hometown Chicagoans, and those who arrive from around the world to replenish and enhance it, there is also a recipe for life: create and share delight, be kind, celebrate, and cherish others.” —Scott Simon,
www.agatepublishing.com
NPR host, CBS Sunday Morning contributor, author, and birthright Chicagoan ISBN 978-1-57284-308-0
“As a Chicagoan, I love this book for its endearing stories, incredible archival photos, and the memories it evokes of my Eli’s Cheesecake–filled childhood. As I cook, I love this book for the recipes. I can’t wait to recreate nostalgic treasures like Liver Eli and, of course, the legendary cheesecakes at home.” —Julia Kramer, food writer
USD $30.00
53000
9 781572 843080
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