Brand analysis âˆŁ Jelizaveta Sersta 2011
CONTENTS HERITAGE _________________________________________________________ 1|P a g e EVOLUTION _______________________________________________________ 2|P a g e SPECIFIC BRAND COMPONENT ______________________________ 4|P a g e BRAND IDENTITY
_______________________________________________
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DESIGN ETHOS ___________________________________________________ 7|P a g e TARGET AUDIENCE ____________________________________________ 10|P a g e BIBLIOGRAPHY __________________________________________________ 12|P a g e
Brand analysis ∣ AllSaints Spitalfields
HERITAGE AllSaints Spitalfields is a British High Street Retailer, founded by Stuart Trevor in 1994 as a menswear shop, and later sold to the current owner, Kevin Stanford. The name “AllSaints” is said to be inspired from artistic and musical backgrounds as well as from All Saints road, Notting Hill, East London. The first AllSaints standalone store opened on All Saints Day, November 1, 1997, in Fouberts Place, off Carnaby Street, presenting their complete menswear collection for the first time. Later In 1998 a womenswear line was developed directly as an expansion from menswear collection. In 2006 Icelandic investment group Baugur was brought in as a partner, taking 35% stake in AllSaints share. Later after Baugurs collapsed its place was taken by Icelandic banks Kaupthing and Glitnir, which also suffered as a consequence of the banking crisis. Currently 75% of the brand belongs to private equity group Lion Capital and the rest is owned by US investor Goode Partners and AllSaints chairman Kevin Stanford. Ever Since AllSaints was established as a brand it has been known for
its
dedication
to
music. U2, Stereophonics, Kelis, Robbie
Williams, and Kings of Leon were amongst the first artists hosted by the brand. As a tribute to its collaboration with the music industry, AllSaints holds its own underground ‘AllMusic’ parties to showcase and support emerging British talents.
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Brand analysis ∣ AllSaints Spitalfields
EVOLUTION Since the label launched in 1994, it has made a long journey from an upcoming menswear brand selling at shopping department stores alike of Harvey Nichols, Harrods and Barneys, to the original, rockinspired fashion chain that we know today, operating over 70 stores in the UK and nationwide. Since the brand entered the international market, it is steadily achieving global presence. For example, The New York store is the fourth to launch in the US, after Los Angeles, Miami and Boston. In the next three years 30 more stores are planned to open across the US, in cities like Santa Monica, Seattle, Las Vegas, and San Francisco. After achieving this Kevin Stanford, AllSaints share owner, has plans on taking the brand to Asia, with the first store being intended to open in Hong Kong. The launch of the AllSaints online store in 2006 provided the brand a connection to a wider consumer audience. The Brand also has Facebook and Twitter accounts which deliver company news and style updates. The intelligent
use
of
technology can be also seen
in
stores.
For
instance there are touch screens positioned across the shop floors, allowing customers to browse for other styles or order pieces that may be out of stock. AllSaints stores also now offer in-store Apple iPad access. This integration of online and offline shopping is more practical and experiential. In recent years, AllSaints sales rose nearly 50% to £133m and profits doubled to £24m, despite their notoriously high prices and the current economic recession. This is quite an achievement, since AllSaints was experiencing difficulties in correlation with the Icelandic banking crisis. Eventually the situation was resolved and fresh finance has been provided by Lloyds Banking Group. 2|Page
Brand analysis âˆŁ AllSaints Spitalfields
AllSaints is making its way back, and is launching a series of innovative partnerships. Currently it is involved in collaborations with Breakthrough Breast Cancer, Too Many Women and Not For Sale, a group aimed to put an end to forced labour. Partnerships commenced with the launch of limited edition t-shirts, proceeds from which will contribute towards support actions.
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Brand analysis âˆŁ AllSaints Spitalfields
SPECIFIC BRAND COMPONENT AllSaints’ brand culture was always intimately bound with matters of music industry. Even the label's advertising campaigns depict models that look like they have just stepped out of a music video. Recently AllSaints Spitalfields organised a widely acclaimed Basement Sessions project in order to share new music and exclusive musician interviews with its online customers. Videos are recorded and filmed regularly in a warehouse space below London design
studios.
Weekly
sessions
present
live
performances,
insightful interviews and upfront podcasts featuring new and experienced musicians. They are uploaded on the website for a global audience, and are available to download to registered users. AllSaints even has its own radio station, playing old school hip hop and cutting edge electro, which can be also accessed through its website.
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Brand analysis âˆŁ AllSaints Spitalfields
BRAND IDENTITY The AllSaints trademark is a ram's skull, which is featured on product labels and in advertising campaigns. However, the brand is most recognisable for its independent, noncorporate store image. AllSaints hold the most spectacular window displays among the rest of the High street. Windows of most of the stores hold no product promotions, but instead neat rows of hundreds of antique Singer sewing machines. The signature front windows are followed by centuries-old printing presses, industrial-style tables and looms stacked across the shop floor as fixtures for the products. The effect is entirely arresting. Distinctive shop fronts and all the unique vintage touches, carry customers through the time to what may seem like a factory or antique market stalls. The unique aesthetic running through AllSaints stores, transforms it from a common shop floor into a premium shopping destination.
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Brand analysis âˆŁ AllSaints Spitalfields
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Brand analysis ∣ AllSaints Spitalfields
DESIGN ETHOS In time of fast changing fashion, the brand AllSaints seems to follow no fashion apart from its own. Menswear, womenswear, children's clothing, footwear and accessories sold in AllSaints stores boast a hard edge distinct look. Traditional artisanal processes are fused within the brand with modern techniques bringing influences from the spirit of British Isles’ and London’s music scene. AllSaints' colour-free clothing rails greet customers with a general palette containing blacks, beiges, and greys, giving gothic impressions. 'We don't care what colour Prada plans to do next season,' the creative director, Kevin Stanford, once stated. 'Just look at the average person's wardrobe - it's full of taupe, grey and black.' This
vision
is
extended across the rustic styles formed of unique silhouettes with a hint of fetish. Distressed
t-shirts,
deconstructed
dresses and crumpled leather jackets are vital.
Some
garments
feature
detailed
embellishment, such as beading, appliqué, and embroidery. The current collection combines a variety of creative pattern cutting, textured yarns and stitches. Key fabrics of this season are washed cottons, sheepskin, and wool. AllSaints shows the history behind its every product; keeping customers interacted with the making process. The Brands official website (AllSaints.com) display educational advertising campaigns showcasing highly skilled technicians hand-stitching and crafting garments individually.
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Brand analysis âˆŁ AllSaints Spitalfields
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Brand analysis âˆŁ AllSaints Spitalfields
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Brand analysis ∣ AllSaints Spitalfields
TARGET AUDIENCE AllSaints sells contemporary fashion for men and women. However this label is not for everyone as it does not pander to seasonal catwalk-driven trends. The styles within the collections are varied from tailoring in fine silks, to skinny jeans and rock leather jackets. Even though a lot of the brand’s clothes are young in spirit, it is not wholly affordable to a younger consumer. Prices range from £ 40 for a graphic t-shirt to £ 500 for a ‘premium’ dress. Some leather garments range up to £ 750. It is the label of choice for consumers in search of clothing that expresses individuality and attitude. Clients know roughly what to expect each time they visit the store, which allows AllSaints to maintain a loyal consumer base. In order to examine the consumer opinion on the brand, I created a survey. This allowed me to understand what makes the brand desirable or not, the key reasons to this and also what contingency of people are more likely to shop in AllSaints.
Interviewee gender
Interviewee age categories Male Female
18-20 21-29 30-39
How often do yo visit AllSaints stores in London or elsewhere? On weekly basis On monthly basis Rarely Never
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Brand analysis âˆŁ AllSaints Spitalfields What do you like most about AllSaints stores/brand? On this account people expressed their attraction to the brand’s unique, edgy, however still elegant style, naming it as something between vintage and casual.
What do you like least about AllSaints stores/brand? As the prime dissatisfaction most interviewees stated the inability to purchase most of the AllSaints products, as brand maintains too high pricing.
Do you shop at AllSaints online store? Yes No The main barrier for people shopping online appeared to be the inability to see and feel clothing before buying it.
What improvements you would like to see in AllSaints brand? people e want the shop Apart from general wish of sales increase and price drop, peopl fronts s to be more bold and enticing, for instance more of product promotions. front
Would you prefer to see more colour in some of the garments?
Yes No
Of those who said no, most liked the existing trademark style of neutral and dark colour palettes and If more colour is introduced, they would like to see only a little so it does not distract from the clothing detailing.
How promising is the future of AllSaints brand?
Very promising Moderately promising Not at all promising
Overall people believe the future of AllSaints is promising in regards to its unique style, popularized amongst celebrities and fans of grunge music.
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Brand analysis ∣ AllSaints Spitalfields
BIBLIOGRAPHY WEBSITES AllSaints online store. http://www.allsaints.com/ AllSaints. (2010) Brand history. http://www.allsaintsshop.co.uk/downloads/File/allsaints_brand_history.pdf Finch, Julia. (2010). AllSaints go marching in-UK label takes Gothic success to nyc. http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2010/jun/11/allsaints-spitalfields-store-new-york The guardian. (2011). AllSaints on the brink of last-minute rescue deal. http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2011/apr/28/allsaints-last-minute-rescue-deal Wachman, Richard. (2011). AllSaints chairman Kevin Stanford launches buyout bid. http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2011/apr/26/jon-moulton-bids-for-allsaints Kollewe, Julia (2011). AllSaints boss confident of stitching together deal to save fashion chain. http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2011/apr/22/all-saints-craig-promises-sale-deal Chapman, Laura. (2011). The Future of AllSaints Looks Bright. http://www.blastfashion.com/fashion-news/536_the-future-of-allsaints-looks-bright/ London Fashion blog. (2011). AllSaints Fashion – Clothing, Accessories, Jewellery & Footwear. http://www.fashionreview.co.uk/all-saints-fashion/ Ix, Kathleen. (2011). Adding some creepiness to the world of fashion (and why it works). http://eatbigfish.com/theblog/adding-some-creepiness-to-the-world-of-fashion-and-why-itworks Portas, Mary. (2010). Shop! Mary Portas at All Saints’. http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/columns/maryportas/TMG8034861/Shop-Mary-Portas-at-All-Saints.html The Star. (2008). Rock star chic with AllSaints. http://www.thestar.co.uk/lifestyle/features/rock_star_chic_with_all_saints_1_234628 Retail technology review. (2008). Urban fashion retailer, AllSaints, automates purchase invoicing with Procura from Image Integrators. http://www.retailtechnologyreview.com/absolutenm/templates/retail_supply_chain.aspx?arti cleid=150&zoneid=1
MAGAZINES Santi, Ana. (2011). High street hit or miss (Contemporary). Drapers, page 28. Greater London house. Moran, Graeme. (2011). High street hit or miss (Mainstream), Drapers, page 25. Greater London house.
VISUALS Page 1 – AllSaints store windows, Regent Street, personal photograph. Page 2 – Shop floor gadgets, AllSaints, Regent Street, personal photographs. Page 3 – All images and logos are taken from AllSaints.com Page 4 – All three images are taken from http://www.facebook.com/allsaints Page 5 – AllSaints store entrance, Camden, personal photograph. Page 6 – Collage mixed of personal photographs taken at AllSaints store, Regent Street, and logos were taken from AllSaints.com Page 7 – AllSaints store merchandising, Regent Street, personal photographs. Page 8 – All the images used in collage are taken from AllSaints.com Page 9 – All the images used in collage are taken from AllSaints.com
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