Case Study Sheffield Hallam University 2020

Page 1

CASE STUDY

ELIZABET YORDANOVA 2020

1


Contents HOW STYLE IS SHAPING SELF-EXPRESSION? Case Study 2020

2


04 Abstract 05/07 Introduction 08/11 Chapter 1 12/16 Chapter 2 17/20 Chapter 3 22/25 Chapter 4 26/27 Conclusion 28/36 Bibliography 36 Appendix 3


ABSTRACT

Key words: style, self-expression, personality, psychology, authenticity, unification Self-expression is considered a major factor contributing for our personal development. With this intention, our style has the ability to shape an expressive visual identity. This case study will analyse the process of finding our personal style exploring cultural background and defining it as an expressive mask for current problems facing society. Given that, the second chapter will identify a variety of styles according to people’s personalities. Consequently, the importance of stylist’s job will be discussed as well as their impact on

self-expression. Last but not least, an observation about the lack of self-expression will take part in the final chapter. Primary and secondary research will be inserted along the case study. The primary research will be based on attending talks, social media questionnaires, and personal observations. The secondary research will outline books, online videos and journals and store brochures.

4


INTRODUCTION The aim of the case study is to characterise the style as a lifestyle expression, outlining the importance of building an expressive visual identity, through clothing, based on cultural background and subjectivity. The process of finding our personal style will be analysed step by step, as well as the fact that many factors may lead to the lack of self-expression. The impact of social media will be discussed along the chapters. 5

“The things we wear can reveal the internal while dignifying the external, celebrating the human person overall.� (Lillian Fallon, Grotto)


6

“Who we are?”; “What do we stand for?” and “Do clothes speak for ourselves?”


INTRODUCTION

Embracing personality through clothing could be a difficult task if the personal style has not been discovered yet. “Do our clothes speak for ourselves?” is a question that could be answered after the process of personal exploration. Fashion can be “an extension of the self, or a way to (re) invent yourself” (Charmaine Li, IGNANT). However, it can be seen as a social norm in order to fit-in. Usually it is based on cultural traditions and religion. Consequently, assumptions could be made based on the physical appearance. Fashion is also characterized as a form of protest artistic expression. Many independent designers became part of underground movements during the separation in Berlin in the 1940’s to 1980’s, as seen in punk style. “Fashion is power to change, to be, and to fight.” (Katherine Fox, 2018) (Not just a label, 2018) This case study will identify different perspectives about the reason of wearing certain garments. Fashion trends are imposed with the evolution of the online presence. Consumers are using social media platforms as a form of a wardrobe advice, reaching influencers. That leads to the statement that influencers could have the ability to threaten the styling industry as well as magazines and advertising campaigns that do not have the influence that they once did. This contemporary issue will be analysed in chapter four. According to 2014 market trends, a survey showed that during the holiday shopping that was occurring, 49% of the participants surveyed were planning to make a purchase because of a social referral and 48% think it is important to share product recommendations via social media networks. (Alyssa B. Sellors, 2014) (Social Media Today, 2014) Research found in 2018 informs that 71% of people are more likely to purchase products if they been recommended by others in social media platform. (Autumn Wilberg, 2018) (digital Marketing Magazine, 2018) Following this, the future of self-expression is an important aspect that will be taken in concern in this case study. Self-manifestation could be disturbed by others. Peer validation and unification in terms of visual appearance could be also seen as a result of the impact of online pressure. All things considered, this overview is a reflection of the contemporary issues facing self-expression. Beginning with the discovery of our personal style is seen as an essential step towards self-manifestation. There are different point of views arguing the message behind the garments. In fact, they all should answer the questions: “Who we are?”; “What do we stand for?” and “Do clothes speak for ourselves?”

/“Fashion is power to change, to be, and to fight.”/ 7


CHAPTER 1

PHOTOSHOOT

STYLE AS A LIFESTYLE EXPRESSION

Chapter one is focused on the importance of building an expressive visual identity through styling. Currently, the fashion industry offers a wide range of fashion garments which clearly identify the taste of fashion societies. The excessive production, predominantly in Fast Fashion, is leading to consumerism and compulsive buying. But do our clothes speak for ourselves or they serve as a “mask” for current problems that society is facing? The aims of the chapter are: clarifying the process of finding our personal style and analysing what message is behind the garments, as well as explaining the compulsive buying causes.

“My personal style is the sum of where I’ve lived, what I’ve seen and who I spend time with…” Identifying what is our personal style may take a long time. Clothes represent people’s lifestyle. The way we dress is influenced by historical background and subjectivity. “My personal style is the sum of where I’ve lived, what I’ve seen and who I spend time with…” (Harling Ross, Man Repeller 2018) As a result, the process of finding our personal style is simplified by taking few steps. Sticking to a signature colour scheme, identifying body shape, and fitting it to our daily activities may be a solution to make our wardrobe work better for us. (Dearly Bethany/YouTube 2019) 8


Nowadays, people fall into the seduction of buying unnecessary clothing items, leading to excessive consumerism.

Fast fashion tends to produce affordable trendy clothing in big quantities. Annual production is expected to exceed more than 100 million tons by 2030. (Jasmin Malik Chua, 2019) (Vox, 2019) That causes compulsive buying. On the other side, everyone can be dressed in a presentable way and social differences are not that defined as previous decades.

compulsive buying is not stylish. According to a questionnaire on Instagram, part of primary research, 43 of 103 people consider themselves as compulsive shoppers. However, 80 people confirmed having more than 5 sweaters for the following winter season. Therefore, people are contradicting their selves collecting a high number of the same clothing item, which indicates that they could be compulsive shoppers. In order to prevent consumerism, the journalist Pandora Sykes (Man Repeller, 2018) suggests; “Let your thoughts marinate; cogitate on something before you buy it.”

In fact, fast fashion brands perform a quick process of production and selling. Between 1992 and 2002 the time we keep wearing our clothes decreased by 50%. This is because fashion trends are changing every season, causing the consumers to constantly feel like they need more. As a result, since the 1980’s, we buy 400% more than we did at that time. (Kianna, 2018) (7Billion for 7 Seas, 2018)

In order to identify our personal style, we should return back to the point of style as a lifestyle expression, the exploration of cultural background is decisive to shape our style. Olivier Rousteing is an example of a fashion designer and guru, who defined his style along his journey as a child coming from an orphanage. Empowering women and supporting race diversity is now part of the message behind the world-known brand Balmain. “Fashion helped me to define who I am” (Olivier Rousteing /YouTube, 2015).

A meeting with the iconic designer Rita Britton, served as a primary research to identify the issue of compulsive buying. As stated by Rita Britton (2018);

“Picking ten staple pieces of clothing is enough… The style has absolutely nothing to do with fashion”.

To sum this up, a questionnaire on Instagram, part of my primary research, is showing that approximately 81% of a total of 78 people, answered that their clothes define their personality. That leads us to the conclusion that “Fashion is clothes. Style is character”.

That could lead to the conclusion that 9


Research could show that self-expression could be achieved by clothes. We can stamp our story and our personal identity on the clothes as an act of self-expression. (PT Staff, 2005) ( Psychology Today, 2005) However, many people are influenced by the styling from different eras in the past, identifying themselves with activists such as Vivienne Westwood. She describes herself as an activist for human rights. The generation was politicized by the hippies in the late 1950’s. According to Vivienne, Punk was a reaction against the fact that the people who caused the Vietnam War are still running the world. The designer stated; “I am a designer and an activist because it is really important to look great when you want to make a point, because people will listen to you more”. (British Vogue/ YouTube, 2019) Therefore, our style can serve as a mirror to reflect problems facing society. Comparatively, an opposing argument to this is the existence of different interpretations of self-expression. Fashion is one of innumerous ways of self-definition. Many creative activities such as producing art, writing poems, dancing, tattooing, singing, or simply staying true to a religion are giving the permission to express feelings and mind thoughts. (The Master Philosopher, 2017) (Medium, 2017) “But, most of us choose to consume other’s art instead” (Fashion Technology and The Future of Expressing Yourself, 2017) Taking into consideration the fact that many people express believes through clothing,

10

expression


burqa is an example of a religious way of staying true to religion. Unification in terms of clothing and cover of the face is recommended in Koran and it could be considered a “God’s law”. It is dictated by custom and tradition. Women should only show their facial expressions to their father, brother or husband. According to many Muslim women they consider themselves happy, peaceful and spiritually fulfilled wearing the black veil. They see the burqa as a form of freedom, expressing their religion, rather than an oppression and discomfort. (Opinion: Why I’m proud to wear the burqa, CNN, 2010) All things considered, self-expression through clothing could be a difficult task for those who are constantly influenced by trends and the social media hype. Certainly, mass production, predominantly in Fast Fashion companies, is leading to the lack of self-expression and uniqueness. Following constantly trends is answering the question “Why is everyone wearing the same £39.99 Zara dress?” (BBC News, 2019) One of the alternative ways of escaping the identical look as everyone else could be thrifting. Finding rare pieces of clothing is a sustainable way to express visual identity through styling. (Hannah Mitchell, 2020) (Daily Pilot, 2020)

11


CHAPTER

1

2

12


13

IDENTIFYING TYPES OF STYLES AND THE PSYCHOLOGY BEHIND THE COLOURS THAT WE WEAR


CHAPTER 2 After analysing the process of finding our personal style and expressing it through our garments, this chapter of the case study will identify the variety of styles in the fashion industry. The importance of a presence of a signature colour scheme in our wardrobe, mentioned in chapter one, will be discussed according to different physical characteristics. The main objectives are: illustrating different types of styles as well as matching colour palettes with our skin tone in order to clarify the vision of finding our personal style. Psychological analysis will be discussed in order to discover why people wear certain colours.

feminine curves, delicate fabrics and detailing. The Chinese designer Anna Sui (YouTube, 2016) describes her work as bold, nostalgic and whimsical. On the other hand, Rock ´n´ Roll style is mainly based on black and silver. Leather motorcycle jacket, a pair of black jeans combined with a vintage music band t-shirt and combat boots is an essential look for 60´s music lovers. Although, this look is becoming even more popular and modern by the influence of designers such as Alexander Wang, Balmain and Phillip Plein. (Shannon Burns-Tran; Jenny B. Davis, 2018) (Style Wise, 2018) Bohemian style is similar to the Romantic Vintage including flowy dresses, however, is inspired from the 60´s and 70´s festivals such as Woodstock. Chloé and Free People are incorporating the bohemian style into their garments. On the opposite side, Creative Edgy is full of futuristic patterns and avant-garde design. Unexpected and risky combination are more than welcome in the interesting collections of Prada, Marni and Moschino. (Shannon Burns-Tran; Jenny B. Davis, 2018) (Style Wise, 2018) Playing with clothes and their colour in an eccentric and contemporary way is defined in the collections of Marni. (Videofashion/ YouTube, 2013)

Modern classic is described as timeless style and it includes versatile clothing for different occasions. Celebrities such as Victoria Beckham and George Clooney are an example of modern looking people with sophisticated style. Victoria Beckham evaluated well-dressed as a; “woman who feels confident, the way she is walking…She probably does not know how good she looks, it comes naturally, not trying too hard…I do not like anything too complicated, just great colours” (Victoria Beckham/ YouTube, 2019). Portraying an effortless, but stylish outlook is the objective of many fashion houses like Hermès, Céline and Ralph Lauren. These world known companies produce timeless design pieces with a touch of an avant-garde style.

Glamazon style is highly sexual and noticeable. Curve revealing garments and bold jewelry are showcased by celebrities such as Cardi B, Jennifer Lopez, Kardashians, Beyoncé, Rihanna, etc on special occasions. Contrasting with these

Romantic vintage is focused on the 14


eye-catching garments, Minimalistic Modern is based on neutral colour palette of black, white, cream, navy and grey. What makes the style valuable is the delicate touch and the quality of the fabrics. Those are put together with fine jewelry and accessories which makes the look sophisticated. Lastly, Urban Sporty is combining athletic apparel and more comfortable loose-fitted clothes. The look are more simplified. Celebrities like Gigi Hadid and Kanye West wear this look on daily bases. (Shannon Burns-Tran; Jenny B. Davis, 2018) (Style Wise, 2018)

collaboration at Milan Fashion Week 2018. Combining the timeless FF print on a tote bag with the sportswear brand, makes the high-end items more street style looking. (Hunter Mak, 2018) (Hypebeast, 2018) Last but not least, choosing the predominant colour palette of the garments in our wardrobe is an essential step in order to build a self-expressive collection. There are two big differentiations between colours: cool and warm according to skin colour, eyes and hair. Golden skin people tend to wear gold, while rosy skin people wear silver. Nowadays, these rules are broken and everybody makes experiments with different hair colours and styles which makes the fashion styles so dramatic and subjective. (Shannon Burns-Tran; Jenny B. Davis, 2018) (Style Wise, 2018)

According to a primary research on Instagram, 109 of 125 people admit having their own style, which makes them feel authentic. Identifying a variety of styles, the majority of people described their style as edgy and romantic. The other part described it as clean, comfortable and classic.

Generally, deep shades to medium pastels with yellow undertone (dark green, pumpkin orange, warm yellow) belong to sun-kissed skin colour. These make the look rich. Lively and bright colours with yellow undertone are more suitable for light skin and golden blond hair. The look is fresh and warm. Light pastels with blue undertone are muted colours suitable for pinky light skin tones and blonde to soft grey hair. The look is delicate, soft and cool. Icy pastels with blue undertone (black, white, grey, soft purple) are worn by dark hair people or grey hair. Skin tone

However, the combination of different styles is good way to make the look more uncommon and extravagant. Nowadays, many competitive brands are making collaboration in order to “provide a refreshing break from the usual fashion calendar�. (Nicholas Daley, 2019) (Hypebeast, 2018) Some of them are not directly competitive, because of their different price range. That is the case of Fendi introducing a FILA

may vary from fair to very dark. (John Lewis & Partners colour palettes brochures, 2018)

Leading on from the analysis in chapter two,

15


some of the “heavy lifting or energy” work for us. (Imogen Lamport, The Psychology of Style)

the differentiation of styles leads to the process of finding personal style. In terms of

fashion, according to rapper MadeinTYO (2019) (Hypebeast, 2018) “If you can’t find inspiration in your everyday life then you probably have to change your life”. As mentioned in the previous chapter, style is a product of a life experience and every piece in the wardrobe should match our personality. Stylist is the one who can establish the relation between personal identity and clothes, predicting our needs and arranging fashion items in a visually pleasing way. (Shannon Burns-Tran; Jenny B. Davis, 2018) (Style Wise, 2018)

In fact, the advertising industry uses colours to manipulate consumers’ choices. If we take into consideration the Autumn/ Winter collections, many of them associate these seasons to darker tones such as black, brown, dark green and navy. Unconsciously, advertisements are pressing the public to fit in certain colour palettes according to each season. Fashion predictions based on trendy colours for the following season could be also considered as a form of manipulation. As a result, the process of finding our personal style that portaits our identity may be seen as a long-term task which can be influenced by many factors.

As mentioned in chapter one, many reasons such as our background could influence our style. One of the internal drivers is related to the psychology behind the colour palettes that people wear. Wearing certain clothing may serve as a communication method when is used properly. The colours are associated with different personalities, which can lead to a critical debate “Who wears colour – Extroverts or Introverts?” According to some extroverts, they wear bright colours to match their vivid personality. On the other hand, the same people are viewed as exceedingly confident which can be intimidating for others. In that way, extroverts may prefer to wear neutral in order to balance their appearance. However, instead of wearing dark clothing to make them less noticeable, introverts would wear vivid colours when they want to have better interactions and to be seen by others. In conclusion, we might say that picking the certain colour palette can do 16


CHAPTER 3

THE STYLISTS’ ROLE AND HOW THEY SHAPE SELF-EXPRESSION? Following the previous chapter discussing the different types of styles, this case study will develop critical analysis about the impact of stylists in the fashion industry as well as defining the importance of their role. The main aim is to question how stylists are shaping self-expression.

“They might imagine a day spent in the corner of a sleek Manhattan studio…,a delicious buffet of sushi and mini cupcakes appears at lunchtime, and an army of assistants are hovering around, ready to rush to Starbucks whenever anyone craves a latte.” The stylist’s job doesn’t seem to be glamorous, as many people think. Working with top models, celebrities and expensive garments is the dream of many stylists, however they can work all day long without assistants. Many times, stylists are not paid for the shoots, because their aim is to get their names published in a magazine and to introduce yourself to the industry. In order to succeed in the competitive environment they are aware of all the fashion events and new trends that grow in popularity. Establishing contacts

with many designers and PR’s brings, they receive invitations to press days when the brand’s new collection is released. Stylists analyse the quality of the garment and become inspired for future projects. They can also request samples for their shoots, contacting the PRs, by doing call-in. (Shannon Burns-Tran; Jenny B. Davis, 2018) (Style Wise, 2018) In this job stylists can wear many hats and go in different creative directions working for magazines, TV commercials, films, music videos and celebrities. Building a good relationship with the photographer during photoshoots is an important aspect and it means explaining your own vision and theme of the shoot and showing your creative ideas. When the roles of the two parts are clarified, the shooting process is successful. (Danielle Griffiths, 2016) (Fashion Stylist handbook, 2016) There are three categories in the fashion styling. Print styling is related to editorials in fashion magazines. Entertainment Industry Styling is selecting outfits for celebrities to wear while they are performing. Lastly, Image Management Styling is focused on wardrobe consulting or personal shopping for different events. Stylists anticipate wants and needs along the process. Different occasions and activities require different roles for the 17 stylists.


owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry? owever, is the stylist’s role crucial for the fashion industry?


During the runway shows, stylists play a huge role during and after the event. They make the designers’ life easier by coordinating accessories and shoes before the catwalk, refining head-to-toe looks. (Shannon Burns-Tran; Jenny B. Davis, 2018) (Style Wise, 2018). “A stylist is like an editor” says Charlotte Stockdale (2003) during the Dolce and Gabbana show. The designer’s role is to explain his vision of final look and the stylist is the one who adds the final touch by putting the fashion pieces together and creating a strong image for the show. As Stefano Gabbana (2003) (The Guardian, 2003) stated: “We needed someone who could say what we don’t need to show on the runway so that the show isn’t too long.”

company Uniqlo and world-known Amazon offering an algorithmic styling service, a chabot that gives clothing recommendations based on human input, as well as your purchasing history. “Companies are realising that you can squeeze even more juice out of the orange if you combine data analytics with the human stylists.” said (Wendy Liebmann, 2018) (Independent, 2019). Building an appropriate image for a performance in a TV Show or Press events is considered a responsible job for stylists. As a celebrity stylist and creative consultant, Preston Konrad describes his role as “Making the clients feel their best while pushing their personal style limits... My goal is to elevate their personal brand and take them to an exciting new place through their style expression.” (Shannon Burns-Tran; Jenny B. Davis, 2018) (Style Wise, 2018). Working with celebrities such as Selena Gomez, Margot Robbie, Dakota Johnson and others, Kate Young is trying to communicate an image that will help to promote a film or a product as well as presenting the client as a business person. (The Hollywood Reporter/YouTube, 2019)

The role of the personal stylists has evolved hugely in recent years, according to Alison Loehnis (2019) (VOGUE Business Talent, 2019) “Not only do they anticipate our customers’ ever-changing luxury needs and solve their wardrobe dilemmas before they even arise, but they also become part of their daily lives.” However, stylists are not always physically present in the store. In order to communicate with them, Nordstrom customers use an application on their phone scanning a barcode of an item. The application collects data such as client’s size and measurements and their preferred shade and provides a full range of recommendations. (Genevieve Wheeler, 2019) (Vogue Business Talent, 2019). Another examples are a Japanese retail

However, an opposing argument to the evolving role of the stylists in the industry is that many celebrities such as Kanye to A$AP Rocky are claiming that are capable of picking their garments without advisor’s assistance. An anti-stylists movement is recognized in the song of French

19


Montana and Drake called “No stylist”. (Sam Wolfson, 2019) (Support The Guardian, 2019). It is important to know that the styling industry is drastically growing since its appearance in the 1990’s. In U.S.A. It is showing a growth of 4.1% to become a $716 million industry over the past five years, according to a research of IBISWorld. More than 28,000 personal style advisors are exclusively working at department stores and e-commerce sites. The personal stylist’s role is to save time of customers with a busy lifestyle, offering services to highlight new brands and faster trends. (Rosana Vollmerhausen, 2017) (Alexandria Stylebook, 2017) Additionally, many times people are struggling on finding their own expressive style. In those cases, the style advisors are working in order to show a way of self-expression through clothing. They are helping their clients to explore diverse options of wearing garments that make them feel comfortable and powerful. As a result, the final outlook can be seen as is a mirror of our identity as stated “Appearance style visually articulates multiple and overlapping identities such as gender, race, ethnicity, social class, sexuality, age, national identity, and personal interests, aesthetic, and politics.” (Susan B. Kaiser, Love to know) In that way, we could summarise that the stylists’ role is important in order to build a visual look that portraits personalities.

20


21


CHAPTER 4 WHO CAN THREATEN THE STYLING INDUSTRY AND HOW THAT AFFECTS SELF-EXPRESSION? By following the analysis of the impact of the styling industry, it is time to discuss how stylists can be threatened. This next chapter will aim to identify influencers as competitors who can devalue the stylist’s role in fashion. The purpose is to describe the process of increasing the influencer’s impact on consumers which leads to the lack of self-expression. The aim of this chapter is also to identify other factors such as religion and politics which can affect self-manifestation. Why comparing stylists with influencers? In order to answer this question we need to identify the role of both competitors. Influencers promote clothing and a big range of products using their image, while stylists promote clothing using a third person. Influencers are predominantly working on social media, stylists perform behind the scenes of a photoshoot, events, TV performances, etc. Although, sometimes influencers require stylists for their work. Many stylists question influencers if they could take on the challenge and dress someone else with a different body shape and preferences. (Jilian, 2016) (Style doctors)

Although, influencers have a huge impact on fashion consumers. That means that people may not have the need to consult a personal advisor for picking certain clothing, because they are already inspired by social media influencers and their lifestyle. As a result, influencers could be seen as today’s stylists. (Personal observations)

22

The $8 billion influencer marketing economy is slated to nearly double in size by 2022. (Kati Chitrakorn, 2019) (VOGUE Business, 2019) The consumer has quick access to social media full of bloggers and influencers who advertise a variety of products that can be bought immediately. The purchasing process is quick. People are seduced by those influencers, because they tend to be more influential than celebrities nowadays. (Shannon Burns-Tran; Jenny B. Davis, 2018) (Style Wise, 2018)


The comparison culture is a term used for, unconsciously, comparing ourselves to others. In fact, it is rising in social media, establishing standards which people tend to follow. (Lauren Geall, Stylist) Currently, consumers are constantly observing and purchasing products used by their fashion gurus. Stylists are being replaced in a certain way by the new era online celebrities who shape our vision of perfect looking. Why should we pay for a fashion consultant if we have 24/7 access to clothing advisors/influencers? Debating the negative aspects of the influencer’s platforms, the lack of self-expression may be caused by influencers on social media who are characterized as “beauty clones” because of their identical appearance. Constantly following seasonal trends advertised on media leads to monotonous styling and standards established for people to fit-in. Due to this, psychological costs are unconsciously input on consumers. Consequently, the connection with their own identity and subjectivity is being dominated by the standard look, which leads to the lack of self-expression. According to the American journalist Bridgette Raes, “clothing has become a cheap, homogenized commodity that leaves little room for self-expression”. (Bridgette Raes Style Expert, 2017)

23


But how can we feel authentic ignoring the social media influence that inputs certain trends? With this in mind, it seems reasonable to assume that the future of self- expression is threatened by many factors. On the other hand, authenticity is encouraged by vintage shopping, empowering sustainability. According to Fiona Ward (Refinery 29, 2020) 300 000 tonnes of clothing are disposed in landfill each year in United Kingdom and the value of the unused clothing in our closets may reach £30 billion. Consequently, many designers such as Vivienne Westwood suggest sticking to the three “R’s” Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle, choosing quality and longevity over quantity. (British Vogue/ YouTube, 2019) Giving life to a secondhand pair of high quality jeans could be considered a reasonable investment that adds a rare piece into our wardrobe collection, making it unique. In the same way, authenticity is what usually stylists search for. Analysing the clients’ preferences and personality as well as meeting their needs are the first steps, taken by the popular stylist Monica Rose (Kerry Pieri, 2016) (HARPER’S BAZAAR, 2016) Comparable, many influencers such as Matilda Djerf and Josefine H.J. are empowering self-expression through their selection of sophisticated vintage clothing.

considered as an act of extreme individualism. After the end of the Cultural Revolution, the society is still managing to recover individuality and innovation through clothing. (UKessays, 2016) Religion plays also a huge role in the lack of self-expression. Many people see religious clothing as a form of freedom in order to express faith, cultural and religious background. (as referred in chapter 1) An opposite argument is clarifying the oppression in Islamism. Women wearing hijab are controlled by men because of their sexuality. The cover of their body, hair and neck could be seen as an act of inequality in sex.(Azam Kamguian, 2018) Wearing what the custom is, could be seen as a requirement in the Muslim society. Although, many extreme requirements are not dictated by Koran but by men. In addition, associating slavery and veiling to women who should wear a black veil and should obey to man’s dictation is seen as a harassment, which is not referred in the central religious text of Islam. (Samina Ali, 2017) (TEDx Talks) Even so, many Islamic women are expressing their religion in a mandatory way, leading to the lack of self-expression. After all, the future of self-expression depends on how we interpret our personality. Stylists, influencers and factors such as politics and religion may serve as an inspiration for our lifestyle, but not as a dictation. Dressing from “inside out” is considered a psychological process of defining how we want to look, depending on our mood, according to Dawnn Karen (TEDxFIT, 2017). However, embracing individuality and personal discovery may be considered the keys of building an expressive visual identity though clothing.

However, other factors such as religion and politics are constantly interfering with self-expression. In communist China standardized uniforms (Mao suits) have been imposed by Mao Tse Tung during many years. There were no differences in rank and sex in terms of clothing. During the 10 years from 1966 to 1976, the Communist Party deprived women of wearing fashionable clothing. It was 24


THREATHS 25


CONCLUSION

As a final point, finding our personal style that portraits personality could be considered a process that takes time and it comes with the age. As been analysed, clothing brings cultural background and religion and it can define and shape our identity. Under those circumstances, style has the power to reflect lifestyles. In counties such as India, where there is an existing oppression of what people wear, the clothing is seen as an opportunity to embrace identities and to choose how people want to look and live. Wearing something different from the mass could transform people to who they want to be. Fashion can communicate the differences to the world for people. It is considered a method of expressing unique identities and, as a result, differences are not seen as shame anymore. The power of selecting clothes is a way of freedom that many cultures are fighting for. “Around the globe, individuality can be a crime, and clothing can be a form of protest.� According to (Kaustav Dey, TED, How fashion helps us to express who we are and what we stand for)

26


Also, the first chapter recognised how fashion and politics are intertwined than ever, giving the example of the designer/activist Vivienne Westwood who fights for social freedom and address her clothing to environmental issues. “It seems that everything from gender inequality to racism to workplace bullying is now being protested via fashion.” (Independent.IE, Style Style Talk, 2020) Clothes are considered a vehicle for protest, giving the example of Katharine Hamnett slogan “58% DON’T WANT PERSHING”, a reference against the basing of Pershing missiles in United Kingdom in order to confront Margaret Thatcher. In fact, some people still defend the statement that fashion is superficial. Regarding the fact of freedom, this case study has identified a variety of styles where people can fit in and feel authentic. Colour could also be associated with certain personalities and it brings the psychology behind the selection of certain shades as analysed in chapter two. Adopting a vibrant colour such as pink represents male-dominated space, empowering women to be more visible and confident. (Independent.IE, Style Style Talk, 2020)

have a massive impact in terms of social manipulation. A recent study on social media users founded that 92% trust an influencer more than an advertisement or traditional celebrity endorsement. (Big Wave Media) This confirms the persuasive strategy which is being used by millions of influencers worldwide. All the standards of “good looking” are imposed on consumers which affects their connection with their identity and self-esteem. Uniformity and sameness are seen in the latest fashion collections. A variation of the same product design is being advertised and purchased by trend followers which leads to the lack of self-expression and uniqueness. This case study has explored all these aspects of the fashion industry, leaving the following questions: “Who we are?”; “What do we stand for?” and “Do clothes speak for our self? Alongside, there is still an open answer to every question because of the subjectivity behind every personality. Everybody stands for different values. However, we should make sure to portrait the right image that we want in the society, wearing our clothes with pride. It is apparent that every single choice is influenced by others, even so, our clothing should express our authenticity, serving as a mirror of our essence.

Following this, the styling industry has a huge impact on the process of self-expression through clothing. The professionals in the area play a huge “Style is a way to say who you are role regarding the way people look. without having to speak.” – Rachel However, social media influencers Zoe 27


28

BIBLIOGRAPHY


Introduction •Charmaine Li, IGNANT Fashion as self-expression Retrieved from https://www.ignant. com/2015/10/22/fashion-as-self- expression/ •Katherine Fox, 2018, Not just a label RESISTANCE AND SELF-EXPRESSION: FASHION’S POWER IN TIMES OF DIFFERENCE https://www.notjustalabel.com/editorial/ resistance-and-self-expression-fashions-power-times-difference •Alyssa B. Sellors, 2014, Social Media Today Social Media Influences on Fashion https://www.socialmediatoday.com/content/ social-media-influences-fashion •Autumn Wilberg, 2018, Digital Marketing Magazine How Social Media and its Influencers are Driving Fashion https://digitalmarketingmagazine.co.uk/ social-media-marketing/how-social-mediaand-its-influencers-are-driving-fashion/4871

29


Chapter 1 •Harling Ross, Man Repeller, 2018 How to Genuinely Find Your Personal Style https://www.manrepeller.com/2018/10/adviceon-finding-your-personal-style.html

•Dearly Bethany, YouTube, 2019 How To Find Your Style & Transform Your Wardrobe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s54bUpAed6o&feature=youtu.be •Jasmin Malik Chua, 2019, Vox The environment and economy are paying the price for fast fashion — but there’s hope https://www.vox.com/2019/9/12/20860620/ fast-fashion-zara-hm-forever-21-boohoo-environment-cost •Kianna, 2018, 7Billion for 7 Seas Fast Fashion Facts: What you need to know https://7billionfor7seas.com/fast-fashion-facts/ •Pandora Sykes, Man Repeller, 2018 How to Genuinely Find Your Personal Style https://www.manrepeller.com/2018/10/adviceon-finding-your-personal-style.html 30


•Olivier Rousteing, YouTube, BBC Newsnight, 2015

•Opinion: Why I’m proud to wear the burqa, CNN, 2010

Olivier Rousteing: ‘Fashion helped me define who I am’ – Newsnight

http://edition.cnn.com/2010/WORLD/europe/02/04/france.burqa.ban/index.html

https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=sC-n7V2uUc8&feature=youtu.be

•BBC News, 2019

•PT Staff, 2005, Psychology Today

Zara dress: What to do when everyone’s wearing the same as you

The Value of Style

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/newsbeat-49070502

https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/articles/200507/the-value-style

•Hannah Mitchell, 2020, Daily Pilot

•Vivienne Westwood, British Vogue, YouTube, 2019

Alexa Sunshine speaks out against fast fashion through her popular YouTube thrifting videos

Naomi Campbell Meets Vivienne Westwood | British Vogue https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=Vl5IVo3EpCk&feature=youtu.be •The Master Philosopher, 2017, Medium How To Authentically Express Yourself for Power, Confidence, and Influence https://medium.com/@MasterPhilosopher/ how-to-authentically-express-yourself-for-power-confidence-and-influence-7c16bd848ff9 •Fashion Technology and The Future of Expressing Yourself, 2017 https://quharrison.com/future-of-fashion-technology/ 31

https://www.latimes.com/socal/daily-pilot/entertainment/story/2020-01-07/alexa-sunshine


Chapter 2

Fendi Introduced a FILA Collaboration at Milan Fashion Week

•Victoria Beckham/ YouTube, 2019 https://hypebeast.com/2018/2/fendi-fila-collaboration-milan-fashion-week

VICTORIA BECKHAM TALKS SPICE GIRLS, FAMILY, FASHION AND MUCH MORE BACKSTAGE WITH 10 https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=av4muLSlVAw&feature=youtu.be

•MadeinTYO, 2019, Hypebeast MadeinTYO Reflects on the Origins of His Personal Style

•Anna Sui, YouTube, 2016 https://hypebeast.com/2019/10/ madeintyo-saks-fifth-avenue-luxury-footwear-editorial

Anna Sui: Fashion’s true original https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2frHkyuAf0s

•Imogen Lamport, The Psychology of Style Who Wears Colour – Introverts or Extraverts?

•Shannon Burns-Tran; Jenny B. Davis, 2018 https://16styletypes.com/who-wears-colour-introverts-or-extraverts/

Book: Style Wise, 2018, Second Edition, A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist •(Videofashion/YouTube, 2013) Designer Profile: Marni – Videofashion https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yA1olpRX0ng •Nicholas Daley, 2019, Hypebeast How Fashion Competitions Encourage Collaboration and Creativity https://hypebeast.com/2019/9/cmmn-swdnnic-daley-woolmark-prize-interview •

Hunter Mak, 2018, Hypebeas 32


chapter 3 •Danielle Griffiths, 2016 Book: Fashion Stylist handbook Laurence King Publishing Ltd •Charlotte Stockdale, 2003 Just what does a stylist do? https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2003/mar/07/shopping.fashion1 •Stefano Gabbana, The Guardian, 2003 Just what does a stylist do? https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2003/mar/07/shopping.fashion1 •Alison Loehnis, 2019, VOGUE Business Talent Personal stylists are using data to strengthen relationships https://www.voguebusiness.com/talent/articles/personal-stylists-data-stitchfix-matchesfashion/ •Genevieve Wheeler, 2019, Vogue Business Talent Personal stylists are using data to strengthen relationships https://www.voguebusiness.com/talent/articles/personal-stylists-data-stitchfix-matchesfashion/

33


•Wendy Liebmann, 2018, Independent THESE NEW PERSONAL STYLISTS ARE HALF BOT, HALF HUMAN https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/ fashion/features/fast-fashion-uniqlo-technology-amazon-bot-personal-shopper-stylists-clothes-a8504701.html •The Hollywood Reporter, YouTube Stylist Kate Young: From Anna Wintour’s Assistant to Transforming Selena Gomez | Magic Hour https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PciScP89LnQ&feature=youtu.be •Sam Wolfson, 2019, Support The Guardian Fashion killa: why are rappers at war with their stylists? https://www.theguardian.com/music/2019/oct/15/ fashion-killa-why-are-rappers-at-war-with-theirstylists-kanye-young-thug •Rosana Vollmerhausen, 2017, Alexandria Stylebook From “What’s that?” to “What Not To Wear” to a $761M Market: The Evolution of the Personal Stylist https://alexandriastylebook.com/whats-not-wear761m-market-evolution-personal-stylist/ •Susan B. Kaiser, Love to know Fashion and Identity

34

https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/fashion-identity


Chapter 4

•Vivienne Westwood, British Vogue, YouTube, 2019

•Jilain, 2016, Style doctors

Naomi Campbell Meets Vivienne Westwood | British Vogue

Stylists v Bloggers – Social Media & Styling

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vl5IVo3EpCk&feature=youtu.be

https://styledoctors.com/social-media-styling/ •Kati Chitrakorn, 2019, VOGUE Business

•Kerry Pieri, 2016, HARPER’S BAZAAR

How to sell fashion on Instagram without traditional influencers

Exclusive: Meet The Mastermind Behind Kendall and Gigi’s Style

https://www.voguebusiness.com/companies/underrated-influencer-tactics-fashion-brands-ganni-revolve-nordstrom

https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/features/ a14250/monica-rose-stylist/ •UKessays, Impact Of Cultural Revolution On Fashion Designers Cultural Studies Essay, 2016

•Lauren Geall, Stylist

https://www.ukessays.com/essays/cultural-studies/impact-of-cultural-revolution-on-fashion-designers-cultural-studies-essay.php

How to stop comparing yourself to people on social media, according to an expert https://www.stylist.co.uk/life/ how-to-stop-comparing-yourself-to-others-instagram-social-media-envy-fomo/344253

•.Azam Kamguian, 2018 Islam And Women’s Rights | Overcoming Inequality

•Bridgette Raes Style Expert, 2017

https://centerforinquiry.org/blog/islam-and-womens-rights/

How to Discover Your Authentic Style

•Samina Ali, 2017, TEDx Talks What does the Quran really say about a Muslim woman’s hijab? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_J5bDhMP9lQ

https://bridgetteraes.com/2017/09/26/authentic-style/ •Refinery 29, 2020 All Your Vintage Shopping Questions, Answered https://www.refinery29.com/en-gb/vintage-shopping-guide

35

•Dawnn Karen, YouTube, TEDxFIT, 2017 Styling from Inside Out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPASqFd4I1A


Conclusion

Appendix

•Kaustav Dey, TED

Questioannaire

How fashion helps us to express who we are and what we stand for

•Do you have a personal style? 87% Yes/ 13% No (109 Yes, 16 No)

https://www.ted.com/talks/kaustav_dey_how_ fashion_helps_us_express_who_we_are_ and_what_we_stand_for?language=en

•Do you feel authentic wearing your clothes? 82% Yes/ 18% No (64 yes, 14 no)

•Independent.IE, Style Style Talk, 2020

•Do your clothes define yourself? 81% Yes/ 19% No (63 yes, 15 no)

The rise of protest dressing: how fashion and politics are more intertwined than ever

•Are you a compulsive shopper? 42% yes, 58% no (43yes, 60 no)

https://www.independent.ie/style/fashion/ style-talk/the-rise-of-protest-dressing-howfashion-and-politics-are-more-intertwinedthan-ever-37860263.html

•How many sweaters do you have for the winter season? Less than 5-35 More than 5-44 More than 10-36

•Big Wave Media How social media influencers affect your life https://www.bigwavemedia.co.uk/blog/how-social-media-influencers-affect-your-life/

36


Project for Sheffield Hallam University BA Honours Fashion Management & Communications

37


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.