FRENCH PASTRY By:
Elkie Halley
FRENCH PASTRY Elkie Halley GM 501 97.154 Hak cipta dilindungi oleh undang-undang All rights reserved Penerbit PT Grasindo, Jln. Palmerah Selatan 22-28, Jakarta 10270 Penyunting naskah: Elkie H. Penyuting penyelia: Elkie H. Desain cover oleh Elkie Halley Perwajahan isi oleh Elkie Halley Sampul dan Ilustrasi oleh Elkie Halley Diterbitkan pertama kali oleh Pt Grasindo Anggota Ikapi, Jakarta, 2021 Dilarang memperbanyak sebagian atau seluruh isi buku ini tanpa izin tertulis dari Penerbit.
Halley, Elkie FRENCH PASTRY / Elkie Halley ; penyuting, Elkie Halley. --Jakarta : Grasindo, 2021. 104 hlm. ilus. : 22 cm. ISBN 979-669-155-8 1. FRENCH PASTRY
Dicetak oleh Percetakan PT Gramedia, Jakarta Isi di luar tanggung jawab Percetakan
Sanksi Pelanggaran Pasal 44: Undang-undang Nomor 7 Tahun 1987 Tentang Perubahan atas Undang-undang Nomor 6 Tahun 1982 Tentang Hak Cipta 1. Barang siapa dengan sengaja dan tanpa hak mengumumkan atau memperbanyak suatu ciptaan atau memberi izin untuk itu, dipidana dengan pidana penjara paling lama 7 (tujuh) tahun dan/atau denda paling banyak Rp. 100.000.000,- (seratus juta rupiah). 2. Barang siapa dengan sengaja menyiarkan, memamerkan, mengedarkan, atau menjual kepada umum suatu ciptaan atau barang hasil pelanggaran Hak Cipta sebagaimana dimaksud dalam ayat (1), dipidana dengan pidana penjara paling lama 5 (lima) tahun dan/atau denda paling banyak Rp. 50.000.000,- (lima puluh juta rupiah).
CONTENT Introduction
1
Chapter 01 - History
2
• Where It All Started? • Important Moments
Chapter 02 - Fun Facts About Pastry • All Things You Need to Know About Pastry • Pastry Events
Chapter 03 - Types of French Pastries • All Types of Pastries • The Benefits of Fruits in Pastry • Essential Pastry Tools
Chapter 04 - Tips and Tricks • How to Eat Croissants • Pastry Etiquette
Chapter 05 - France, Center of Pastry • Best Pastry School • Famous Pastry Chef • Top Pastry Shops
Chapter 06 - Pastry Today • Desserts Trends 2021 • 2021 - Pastry Predictions
3 4-11 12 13-15 16-21 22 23-37 38-39 40-51 52 53-59 60-63 64 65-70 71-79 80-85 86 87-93 94-97
THIS BOOK BELONGS TO:
INTRODUCTION “You can’t hurry love, and you can’t rush puff pastry, either. You can knead too much, and you can be too needy. Always, warmth is what brings pastry to rise.”
Do you like Pastry? if so, this book is for you. This book is dedicated to anyone who is interested in the world of pastry, especially pastry from France. Starting from the history of pastry, to its development until today. There is also a chapter that discusses leading figures who bring the name of the Pastry world. You will get useful knowledge, which you will not get from other books. This book has been structured so that it is easy to understand, designed in a way that does not bore you when reading it. Thank you to the people around me who have supported me in completing this book. I guarantee that after reading this book, you will be more interested in pastry and have more knowledge. Enjoy reading this book! (note: it will feel better if you read it while eating pastry)
Page 1
CHAPTER
01 History
Where It All Started? Important Moments
WHERE IT ALL STARTED?
“Everybody loves a French dessert but those desserts did not happen overnight, it took centuries of perfecting recipes and a lot of passion to create the French pastry and confectionary we love today.” Everything started with the desire to serve something sweet after a meal and it evolved into the decadent world we know today. Fruits and cheese were not enough for the French people so a new type of art – the art of pastries and confectionaries – was born and a whole new world of cakes, pastries, and delicious confectionaries.
In 1270 when Régnaut-Barbon decided he wants to make oublies (confectioners’ ancestors) and pastries. And from there, everything started to develop and to grow into the amazing industry that French pastry and confectionary is today.
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IN THE HISTORY OF FRENCH PASTRY Page 4
1540
The puff pastry was created in 1540 by Popelini. 26 years later, in 1566, the oublies were renamed confectioners.
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1638 1660 1686
In 1638 France tasted tartelettes amandine for the first time. 1660 was the year whipped cream was invented by Vatel, the cook of the Prince of Condé. 1686 was the year that started the French café culture in France. Le Procope, the first Parisian café, served coffee, tea, ice cream, and chocolate.
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1778
1778 is the year the first nougat factory was founded.
1793
Macarons were invented in 1793.
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1808 1808 is the year brioche became a very popular pastry in Paris
1830
In 1830 the ice cream machine was born.
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1850
1879
The ganache was invented in 1850 by a Parisian confectioner.
In 1879 the first Christmas log was made by Charabot.
1882
1890
Candied chestnuts became a thing in 1882.
In 1890 tarte bourdaloue (French pear tart) was created.
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1924
In 1919 France decided to create professional courses for confectionary apprentices. The first ice cream factory in France opened its doors in 1924.
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“ NOTHING
COULD BE MORE FRENCH THAN PASTRY
”
- Rachel Khoo British cook, writer and broadcaster
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CHAPTER
02
Fun Facts About Pastry All Things You Need to Know About Pastry Pastry Events
ALL THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT PASTRY
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These are the facts! • Pastries were brought to Europe during the Muslim invasion of the 7th century and picked up the imagination of Europeans. • The word pastry comes from a Middle English word that means made of paste (pasty). • Girls who try to show as if they are normal and do not suffer from eating disorders by ordering desserts in a restaurant and cafe are often referred to as pastries. The term is used to refer to girls who do not eat much and give an impression that they are eating. • The largest serving of pastries’ record was achieved during an event in Budapest, Hungary, where, over 10,000 pastries were served.
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LARGEST PASTRY The largest pastry in the world was baked by Mantecados La Muralla that measured 16.25 feet long and 7.87 feet wide and weighed 660 pounds.
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EPIPHANY DAY “Epiphany also known as Theophany in the east, is a Christian feast day that celebrates the revelation of God incarnate as Jesus Christ.”
Epiphany is celebrated 12 days after Christmas on 6th January (or January 19th for some Orthodox Church who have Christmas on 7th January) and is the time when Christians remember the Wise Men (also sometimes called the Three Kings) who visited Jesus.
Epiphany is also when some Churches remember when Jesus was Baptised, when he was about 30, and started to teach people about God. Epiphany means ‘revelation’ and both the visit of the Wise Men and his Baptism are important times when Jesus was ‘revealed’ to be very important.
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In France you might eat a ‘Galette des Rois’, a type of flat almond cake. It has a toy crown cooked inside it and is decorated on top with a gold paper crown. Tradition dictates that when serving galette des rois, the entire cake should be divided such that each guest receives a slice, plus an extra, symbolic slice for any unexpected visitor, or poor person, that should pass by. In this way, everyone has the opportunity to “tirer les rois,” – or “draw the kings” – from the cake.
You’ll typically find two basic styles of galette des rois: In northern France, it’s made of pâte feuilleté, puff pastry, and stuffed with a dense, creamy almond paste called frangipane. In the south of France, you’ll be eating a brioche-style cake covered with candied fruit. Other variations can be found as well, from shortbread-style, popular in Western France, to those that have alternate fillings, such as chocolat-poire (chocolate-pear) or raspberry.
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PASTRY DAY “National Pastry Day celebrates one of the world’s most favored baked goods. On December 9th, visit your local bakery and pick up one or two of your favorite kinds.”
The pastry is a name given to a large variety of baked goods which are made with ingredients such as flour, sugar, milk, butter, shortening, baking powder, and eggs. Pastry dough is rolled out thinly and then used as a base for different baked products. A few of the more common bakery items include pies, tarts, quiches, and pasties. Bakers create both savory and sweet dishes from the doughs they create. Additionally, they continue to develop new and delicious creations all the time! Culinary historians often consider French pastry chef Antonin Careme (1784 – 1833) to have been the original great master of pastry making in modern times. Get baking! Choose your favorite recipes, or try one of the delicious ones below. While you’re baking, be sure to invite someone over to help you enjoy the delicious results. Another way to celebrate is by visiting your local bakery and giving them a shout out. It’s one of the best ways to #CelebrateEveryDay!
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NATIONAL PASTRY DAY ACTIVITIES GO TO YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD No matter whether you live in a tiny, remote town or a huge city, we pretty much guarantee that you won’t have to travel too far to find a delicious bakery. Walk in, don’t you dare think about the word “calories,” and buy as many pastries as your heart desires. You’re supporting a local business, after all.
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MAKE PASTRY DOUGH
WATCH COOKING SHOW
We know it can be tempting to take a pastry shortcut and buy premade dough from the freezer aisle at the grocery store. But in honor of National Pastry Day, why not try your hand at making pastry dough entirely from scratch? It might not be easy, but it will be extremely rewarding. Plus you’ll get to channel your inner child and sneak bites of the unbaked dough.
Eat with your eyes and binge-watch a bunch of pastry baking shows. There’s the recent mega-hit “The Great British Bake Off,” or the singular-pastryfocused “Cupcake Wars.” If those aren’t enough to satiate you, try “Ace of Cakes,” “Top Chef: Just Desserts,” or one of our personal favorites: old YouTube footage of Julia Child.
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CHAPTER
03
Types of French Pastries All Types of Pastries The Benefits of Fruits in Pastry Essential Pastry Tools
ALL TYPES OF PASTRIES Page 23
January 30 is National Croissant Day!
CROISSANT The key to this flaky viennoiserie is simply a good butter—preferably from Normandy—with a high melting point. This makes all the difference when it comes to layering. A stellar croissant should have a beautiful cross section boasting a honeycombed interior when sliced in half. Bonus: day-old croissants are excellent for making almond variations.
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MADELEINES The madeleine is a traditional small cake from Commercy and Liverdun, two communes of the Lorraine region in northeastern France. Madeleines are very small sponge cakes with a distinctive shell-like shape acquired from being baked in pans with shell-shaped depressions. Aside from the traditional moulded pan, commonly found in stores specialising in kitchen equipment and even hardware stores, no special tools are required to make madeleines.
A génoise cake batter is used. The flavour is similar to, but somewhat lighter than, sponge cake. Traditional recipes include very finely ground nuts, usually almonds. A variation uses lemon zest for a pronounced lemony taste. These distinctive shell-shaped tea cakes are made with eggs, plain flour, sugar and loads of butter—and when made right, lighter than air. Enjoy with a cup of tea.
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BAGUETTE
Baguette means stick (baton) and became the iconic symbol of French bread
Made with only flour, water, yeast and salt, the mark of a truly good baguette is the sound it makes when breaking open the beautifully bronze exterior to release a soft, resilient interior. Best to eat these beauties the day of, with a good smear of homemade or local butter.
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MILLEFEUILLE A work of patience, the beauty of this French pastry lies in its layers: bakers work by layering puff pastry with pastry cream and repeating the process at least thrice to form this dessert. The top layer is then dusted with sugar and sometimes cocoa powder, or glazed with fondant for a fancier touch.
Traditionally, a mille-feuille is made up of three layers of puff pastry (pâte feuilletée), alternating with two layers of pastry cream (crème pâtissière). Alternatively, the top is glazed with icing or fondant in alternating white (icing) and brown (chocolate) stripes, and combed.
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Paris-Brest is a French dessert created in 1910 in order to celebrate a cycling event
PARIS-BREST The round pastry, in the form of a wheel, was created in 1910 by Louis Durand, pâtissier of Maisons-Laffitte, at the request of Pierre Giffard, to commemorate the Paris–Brest–Paris bicycle race he had initiated in 1891. Its circular shape is representative of a wheel.
This show-stopping pastry makes an excellent dessert table centerpiece. Shaped like a bicycle wheel, a Paris-Breast is traditionally made from a ring of choux pastry filled with a praline-flavored cream and dusted with icing sugar.
It became popular with riders on the Paris–Brest cycle race, partly because of its energising high calorific value, and is now found in pâtisseries all over France.
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KOUIGNAMANN
Thanks to pastry pro Dominique Ansel, this round crusty cake has been repopularized at his many pastry shops around the globe. Often compared to puff pastry, the bread dough uses the same method of folding in layers of butter and sugar. Pronounced qween-ah-mahn, think of this as a denser version of a croissant, only the kouign-amann has that extra step of being dusted with sugar.
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ST. HONORÉ A distant cousin of the Paris-Brest, the St. Honoré—or Gâteau St. Honoré—is named for the French patron saint of pastry chefs. The pastry begins with a base consisting of puff pastry dough and topped with a ring of pâte à choux, then filled with pastry cream. Delicate sugar-dipped cream puffs make for the final topping.
The 16th of May is St Honoré’s Day. St Honoré is the patron saint of bakers.
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MACARON March 20th is National Macaron Day, the biggest macaron event of the year!
“It also happens to be the International Day of Happiness. Coincidence much?”
This sweet meringue-based confection has been celebrating much hype over the past several years, no doubt due to the myriad of pastel colors and flavors. Made with egg whites, icing sugar, granulated sugar, almond powder or ground almonds, the macarón usually consists of a ganache, buttercream or jam filling that’s been sandwiched between two delicate shells.
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DACQUOISE
Layered desserts are very popular in the French pastry and confectionary world. Dacquoise is a layered cake made with layers of hazelnut-almond meringues, buttercream, and ganache. This cake is a chocolate heaven that tastes amazing and is very decadent, however, the texture is very light and airy despite the buttercream and the ganache.
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“ This French dessert cake was made to satisfy the taste buds of people of French court. ”
ÉCLAIRS Éclairs are made with choux pastry filled with a flavored and sweet cream. The most famous one is of course the chocolate Éclair, every pastry shop in France have them! But you can also find coffee flavored Éclair, Vanilla Éclair, Strawberry Éclair with actual strawberries inside, Lemon Éclairs and a great lot of other flavors in some specialized shops.
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CANNELÉS The Cannelés is believed to originate from the Couvent des Annonciades, Bordeaux in either the 15th or the 18th century. (The modern word “canelé” originates in Gascon, which was spoken in Bordeaux and a large area of southwestern France until the 19th century.
Cannelés are a regional pastry originally invented in a French town where they make great wine but not only: Bordeaux. Cannelés are a little soft pastry perfumed with Vanilla and a hint of Rhum inside a little caramelized envelope.
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CRÉME BRULÉE
Crème Brûlée is a pastry made with egg yolk, vanilla, cream and caramel. The caramelized top is supposed to crack under your spoon to make a contrast with the creamy lower lair of the pastry. You can usually find Crème Brûlée as a dessert in restaurant but some pastry shops can also have some.
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National Brioche Day is held on May 14
BRIOCHE Made really famous by the sentence “Let them eat Brioche” that Marie-Antoinette is rumored to have said, French brioche can actually be used as bread. At breakfast, French people often trade their usual bread for soft and sweet brioche with strawberry or raspberry jam. You can also find a lot of nice little brioches with sugar pieces on top in a lot of pastry shops, French people eat those as a snack.
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TARTE TATIN It is believed that Tarte Tatin was created by accident but this tart became the signature dessert of the Hotel Tatin. Traditionally, the amazing Tarte Tatin is made with caramelized apples, however, you can make this tart with pears as well.
Carolina (1847-1911) and Stephine Tatin (1838-1917) were the creators of Tarte Tatin
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THE BENEFIT OF FRUITS IN PASTRY
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FRUITS
“Besides giving a fresh taste, it turns out that eating fruit as a dessert can provide energy for the body.”
When you eat fruit, there are natural sugars that will enter the bloodstream in the body. This will automatically provide enough calories for the body to carry out activities, compared to eating sweet cakes that do not contain fruit and only contain lots of sugar and artificial flavors. One of the fruits that is often used in making cakes is apples. The benefits of apples are combined with a variety of dishes, one of which is apple pie. Apart from being delicious, apple pie also contains various nutrients and is rich in vitamins. There are also bananas which are very suitable to be processed into banana cakes, banana cakes, brownies. Bananas are good for blood circulation, help digestion in the intestines, maintain eye health, prevent anemia and asthma. Other fruits that are dominated by sweet and sour flavors, such as dragon fruit, mango, pineapple, and orange are also very suitable to be reprocessed into cakes and pastries. Of course consuming fruit regularly can meet the needs of fiber and minerals in the body.
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ESSENTIAL PASTRY TOOLS Beginner bakers and seasoned pros, gather round! This list of baking tools will help you organize your baking equipment once and for all. If you’re a new baker, start with our list of baking must-haves to set up your kitchen with all the essential baking tools to get you through any kind of recipe.
And if you have a a cake recipe you’re trying to perfect, make sure to take a peek at our list of nice-to-have tools to start stocking your kitchen with equipment that’ll make your baking faster, easier, and more impressive.
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MUST HAVE BAKING TOOLS
These are the tools you absolutely need in your kitchen; the ones you’ll reach for more often than you think. Whether you’re baking a cake or stirring up a batch of cookies, make sure you have these tools on hand before getting started.
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Measuring Cups (Liquid and Dry) Baking is all about precision, so having a full set of measuring cups and spoons on hand is a must. Don’t think you can get by with just one type of measuring cup, you’ll need both dry and wet measuring cups to accurately measure all your ingredients. Keep these tools in an easy-to-reach spot, because you’ll use them all the time. Most measuring spoon sets have a tablespoon, teaspoon, ½ teaspoon, and ¼ teaspoon. For liquid measuring cups, you can get by with a 1-cup size, but it can be handy to have 2-cup and 4-cup ones in your cupboard, too.
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Spatula / Metal Turner
When you need to transfer fresh-out-of-the-oven cookies to a cooling rack or serve a piece of cake from a 9x13 pan, there’s no tool better than a good old spatula. Having one with a thin metal blade can be especially handy, and it’ll be flexible enough to easily slide under anything you’re moving without squishing the dough or crumbling your cookies.
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Wooden Spoon(s)
One wooden spoon is enough, but this tool is so handy, it can sometimes be helpful to have a couple around. Wooden spoons are great for all kinds of stirrin because they’re so sturdy (you’ll be able to use them with even the thickest, heaviest doughs). Just remember to hand-wash them when you’re done so they don’t end up cracked.
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Whisk Sure, you can use a wire whisk to beat together a few eggs, but it’s handy for other things too. In particular, it’s one of the best ways to thoroughly mix together dry ingredients and is also great for stirring together a homemade custard.
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g n i
n i P
l l
o R
Rolling pins are definitely the most useful for rolling out pie crusts, cookie dough, and puff pastry, but there are other ways you can put this tool to work in your kitchen. For example, if you don’t have a food processor and need to crush cookies, chips, or crackers for a recipe, just put them in a sealable bag, then use your rolling pin to smash them to pieces.
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Pastry Brush A pastry brush, also known as a basting brush, is a cooking utensil used to spread butter, oil or glaze on food. In baking breads and pastries, a pastry brush is used to spread a glaze or egg wash on the crust or surface of the food. This handy tool has more uses than you realized. It can be used to grease a pan before pouring in cake batter, to coat dough with melted butter or egg wash, or to “paint” milk on top of a piecrust. Especially if you’re a frequent baker, this is a must-have!
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Chef’s Knife This highly versatile knife is very popular among chefs. In fact, the pastry knife is cited by many chefs as their ‘go-to’ knife for day-to-day tasks in the kitchen. Its long serrated blade is more flexible than a standard chef’s knife, while remaining strong. The blade remains broad to the tip, allowing the knife to double as a palette knife or spatula for certain jobs. If you have only one knife in your whole kitchen, make it this one. This allpurpose knife is great for slicing, dicing, chopping, and mincing just about any ingredient your recipe calls for.
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Rectangular Baking Pan A regular baking pan (13x9x2 inches) is a definite must-have. You can use it for so many sweet things—cakes, brownies, cookie bars—and, of course, it has savory uses as well. If you pick only one baking pan to stock your kitchen with, make it this one.
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Kitchen Scissors Just about everyone keeps a pair of scissors in the kitchen, but when it comes to using them for food prep, your average craft or office versions simply won’t cut it. What you really need are kitchen scissors or kitchen shears, which are heavy duty and super sharp. Whenever we’re making a recipe, baking or otherwise, we always our have our kitchen shears handy. They can be useful in so many different ways: Snipping fresh herbs, cutting parchment to fit a pan, and even just opening stubborn packages and containers.
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Rubber Spatula / Scraper
A rubber spatula is the go-to utensil for such tasks as gently scraping out the contents of bowls without scratching the surface; stirring and blending batters and other mixtures; and gently folding mixtures. We’re willing to bet you reach for your rubber scraper more often than you think. This tool is ideal for scraping the last bit of batter or dough out of a pan or for scraping all the nooks and crannies out of your jam jar. They’re also super handy for folding together wet and dry ingredients. Silicone scrapers will stand up to high heat better than rubber ones.
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CHAPTER
04 Tips and Tricks How to Eat Croissants Pastry Etiquette
HOW TO EAT CROISSANTS “Croissants are a traditional French pastry, best enjoyed at breakfast time fresh and on their own, or accompanied by coffee.”
If you’ve ever eaten a croissant, you know how messy they can be! There are many ways to eat a plain croissant on its own to avoid getting crumbs all over yourself and butter on your fingers, or for a more complete meal you can even make them into a delicious breakfast sandwich! Enjoy a croissant warm or at room temperature but always fresh-baked. It’s just as tasty to eat a croissant toasted or at room temperature. Heat a croissant up in the oven or a toaster oven at home, or eat them at room temperature on-the-go. Put a croissant in the oven or toaster oven at 350 degrees F (175 C) for 5 minutes to heat it up.
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1)
USE NAPKIN
Wrap a napkin around the bottom half of the croissant. Get a large enough napkin to fit around the whole croissant. Wrap it around the bottom half of the croissant and eat it from the top down. Good croissants are very buttery and flaky, so use a napkin to avoid making a mess and keep your fingers greasefree.
2)
PEEL TOP LAYER
Peel off the top center part of the croissant and eat it first. Hold down the two ends of the croissant with the thumb and index fingers of one hand.
Tear off the middle top layer with your other hand and enjoy the crunchiest part of the croissant. Try to do this on a plate if you can to catch crumbs.
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3)
TEAR INTO 3 SECTIONS
Tear the croissant apart into 3 sections for a different way to eat it. Look at where the croissant is naturally divided into 3 sections and tear them apart from each other on a plate. Eat each piece separately over the plate to catch the crumbs. This method works well to avoid a mess if you don’t have a napkin.
4)
FORK AND KNIFE
Use a fork and knife to cut apart the croissant as an alternative to tearing it. Put the croissant on a plate. Hold a fork and knife in whichever hand you prefer for each, and cut the croissant apart bite-by-bite. This is the least messy way to eat a croissant and to keep your hands clean.
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5)
COFFEE WON’T DISAPPOINT YOU
Dunk a croissant in coffee before each bite for a delicious pick-me-up. Tear the croissant apart and dip it into a cup of coffee of your choice, such as black coffee or a cappuccino.
Eat the whole bite right away. Don’t hold the croissant in the coffee too long, or it will become soggy and fall apart.
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6)
SPREAD BUTTER
Try spreading salted butter on a croissant to complement its buttery flavors. Cut or tear the croissant into pieces and butter them up before each bite. The salted butter will enhance the already buttery flavor of croissants. You can still dunk the croissant in coffee with butter on it if you want.
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7)
MIX WITH FRESH FRUIT
Fill a croissant with fresh fruit and whipped cream for a sweet treat. Cut up some fruit of your choice like strawberries or peaches. Slice a croissant in half and stuff the fruit inside, top it with whipped cream, and eat it.
Don’t cut the croissant all the way through. Think of it like a hot dog bun and leave it connected on one side so that it can hold all the fruit and whipped cream easily.
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8)
SPREAD NUTELLA (MY FAVORITE!) Try spreading some Nutella on a croissant. Cut the croissant in half and spread Nutella on both halves. Put the halves back together and eat it like a sandwich.
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PASTRY ETIQUETTE
Traditionally, a dessert spoon and dessert fork are used when eating such pastries as cream puffs and eclairs; the pastry is held in place with the spoon and cut and eaten with the fork. Bite-sized pastries such as rugalach are eaten with the fingers. The general table manners rule? If you can’t eat a pastry without getting it all over your fingers, switch to your utensils.
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PASTRIES
Table manners for eating breakfast pastries. Croissants are eaten with the fingers. When adding jelly, preserves, or the like, carefully tear off small pieces and spoon on the topping.
DANISH
Table manners for eating Danish pastries. Danish pastries are cut in half or in quarters and eaten either with fingers or fork.
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POPOVERS Table manners for eating popovers. Popovers are opened and buttered before being eaten (in small pieces) with the fingers.
STICKY BUNS Table manners for eating sticky buns. Sticky buns should be cut in half or in quarters with a knife and eaten with the fingers. If a bun is too sticky, use a knife and fork.
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ECLAIRS Table manners for eating eclairs. These cream-filled puff pastries are always eaten with a knife and fork. Just cut into them gently so that the filling doesn’t squirt out.
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CHAPTER
05
France, Center of Pastry Best Pastry School Famous Pastry Chef Top Pastry Shops
BEST PASTRY SCHOOL IN FRANCE
French cuisine was made known in the 20th century by Auguste Escoffier and was to become the modern haute cuisine. Knowledge of French cooking has contributed significantly to Western cuisines. Its criteria are used widely in Western cookery school boards and culinary education.
In November 2010, French gastronomy was added by the UNESCO to its list of the world’s “intangible cultural heritage”. If you seek a career in the restaurant scene, knowledge of French cuisine is invaluable. Below you will find the most renowned culinary schools in France.
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LE CORDON BLEU 13-15 Quai André Citroën, 75015 Paris, France Page 66
Le Cordon Bleu is a world renowned culinary institution based in the center of Paris. It’s known for having some of the most comprehensive courses on the continent, and students come from far and wide to enroll in their programs. The school was founded in 1895, and offers everything from traditional French pastry, to bread making and even a vegetarian course. At le Cordon Bleu you’ll also be given the opportunity to learn wine pairing, which is not something offered at most cooking schools.
LES COULISSES DU CHEF Also based in Paris, les Coulisses du Chef is another renowned institution, founded by the fantastic Chef Olivier Berté. Here you’ll have your pick of some world class courses, ranging from the art of patisserie to cooking for coeliacs. This school is less exclusive compared to the aforementioned establishment, and anyone is welcome to enroll, even if just to broaden their culinary interest. Les Coulisses du Chef is situated in the 2nd arrondissement; a vibrant part of the city and within walking distance to some of the best Parisian attractions. The “Coulisses du Chef” is open from Wednesday to Saturday for friendly cooking classes led by a professional. Located in a “hotel particulier”, in the heart of Paris Gourmet, Olivier Berté and his team are waiting for you to share their passion for cooking. Our workshop, created ten years ago, receives people who wants to achieve , with the guidance of a Chef, delicious recipes. Many topics are scheduled throughout the year: French cooking, world cooking, molecular cooking, dietetic cooking and pastry.
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L’ÉCOLE LENôTRE L’Ecole Lenôtre is considered to be one of the best pastry schools on the planet, and was founded by Gaston Lenôtre in 1971. The school is in Paris, and attracts students from over 100 different countries each year.
The education here is based on the most traditional French cuisine. All of the chefs have worked with the top dogs of the industry; Gaston Lenôtre himself is known for being one of the biggest names ever in pastry. This school is a high pressure environment and extremely competitive. If there’s one way to throw yourself into the deep end when it comes to learning pastry, it’s at l’Ecole Lenôtre.
40 Rue Pierre Curie, 78375 Plaisir, France
FAMOUS PASTRY CHEF FROM PARIS Page 71
DOMINIQUE ANSEL “
It’s something that people like, it’s something that people understand, it’s something that people want to talk about.
“
Inventor of the Cronut, Dominique Ansell’s is known as one of the world’s most innovative and passionate pastry chefs. He rose to fame when he trademarked the Cronut from his New York shop, with limited branches stocking this delicious morsel – the queues were long and the goodies often sold out well before 9am.
He has gone on to invent other modern baking marvels such as Banofee Paella, Zero Gravity Cake, Frozen Smores and choc-chip cookie milk shots. The man’s creativity seems to know no bounds and you will always find something to be inspired about when Monsieur Ansel is around.
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CRONUT is a Croissant-Doughnut pastry invented by New York City pastry chef Dominique Ansel of Dominique Ansel Bakery while working at Fauchon in France.
Dominique Ansel Bakery
Location: New York, Los Angeles, London, Tokyo
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CÉDRIC GROLET “the best pâtissier in the world” In just a few years, Cedric Grolet has become a key figure in the French pâtisserie and is today regarded by international critics as the best pâtissier. A symbol of the new generation of chefs. Referenced in the Michelin Guide as a “Pastry Star On The Rise”, Cédric Grolet is known for his mind-blowing pastry creations. He is the executive chef at Le Meurice in Paris (say no more) and has published two books on pastries inspired by fruit. His work is visually stunning, literally, and is often called “too pretty too eat”. Prepare to be amazed!
“I am a man who likes simplicity and my work is dictated by the seasons.”
La Pâtisserie du Meurice par Cédric Grolet
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JORDI ROCA I FONTANÉ Page 76
“WORLD’S BEST PASTRY CHEF” - Award from Restaurant Magazine -
You’ll be forgiven if you can’t pronounce his name but whatever you do, look up. Featured in the brilliant Netflix show, Chef’s Table, this pastry prince from Spain is known as a genius in his field. The documentary, “The Sense of Cacao” follows him on a sensory journey as he works with with cancer patients and other ailments as well as a group of neuroscientists and neurogastronomy experts to create a cocoa flavour that the patients experience through their own memories. Intrigued yet? Jordi Roca was also the impulse behind the new ice cream shop, Rocambolesc, which opened last week in Gerona’s city center. This new project not only reflects his mastery of everything sweet, something that diners at Can Roca can attest to, but also a desire to let his imagination run wild in this new establishment.
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JESSICA O T A P L A É R P “THE WORLD’S BEST PASTRY CHEF 2019!”
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Jessica Préalpato, pastry chef at Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée restaurant in Paris, has just been named the World’s Best Pastry Chef 2019 by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Follow along for a chance to discover in her trail a certain pastry ideal between cuisine and “naturalness”, inherent to seasonal products and producers. She is the pioneer of the “guilt-free patisserie” genre. She is Jessica Préalpato. And, she is fabulous. She believes in natural sweetness and using ingredients one would not normally associate with desserts. From malted beer sorbet with barley crumble and hop galettes, cherry olive vinaigrette or vanilla Jerusalem artichokes with truffles, this lady has started a pastry revolution.
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TOP PASTRY SHOPS IN PARIS
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LADURÉE
A trip to Ladurée is often the first priority for many visitors to Paris and who can blame them? It’s certainly the first thing in my head as I jump off the plane.
21 RUE BONAPARTE, 75006 PARIS | MÉTRO SAINT GERMAIN DES PRÈS
Ladurée still remains the prettiest of all of Paris’ patisseries. Head to the store along Rue Bonaparte and grab a box full of pastel-coloured macarons to share along the banks of the Seine. Or alternatively find a spot of the terrace along the Champs-Elysées and order a Réligieuse and a Saint-Honoré swallowed down by the MarieAntoinette tea.
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ODETTE
77 RUE GALANDE, 75005 PARIS | MÉTRO CLUNY – LA SORBONNE
Down a cobbled street in the Latin quarter you’ll find this adorable little sweet shop dedicated to the famous French treats: choux à la crème. These cream puffs are not only as cute as a button but also dangerously moreish. They’re so light and fluffy that you can just keep on eating them. Climb the winding staircase to the attic-like room and take the window seat with a charming view towards Notre Dame and enjoy a couple (or five) of these sugary delights.
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SÉBASTIEN GAUGARD Stepping foot into this whimsical tearoom will have you instantly in awe. Natural light floods in through the windows and exposed bulbs hang from the ceilings, which combined, provide an ethereal light dancing off the pastries making them even more tempting. The pastel blue hues and marble tables only add to the interior-décor perfection. Oh and did I mention that all of the patisseries are mouth-wateringly good? Don’t leave without a couple of caramels au beurre salé for the road.
1 RUE DES PYRAMIDES, 75001 PARIS | MÉTRO TUILERIES.
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PIERRE HERMÉ 72 RUE BONAPARTE, 75006 PARIS | MÉTRO SAINT SULPICE
Pierre Hermé is the master of flavor combinations; with an adventurous flair he’s never too scared to create the unexpected and he always makes it work. Be it vanilla and olive oil or chocolate and foie gras, as bizarre as the flavor duos might sound they always taste phenomenal. Keep an open mind and always trust in his genius. My favourite store is the flagship one because just a couple of steps away lies Place Saint Sulpice, a beautiful, serene square where you can savour his creations on one of the benches.
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ANGELINA
226 RUE DE RIVOLI, 75001 PARIS | MÉTRO TUILERIES Famous for its lavish hot chocolate, there is nothing more comforting than ordering a cup à emporter and slowly sipping it through the Tuileries on a cold winter day. However the interior of the tearoom should be a tourist attraction in its own right and resembles a château more than a patisserie.
If you’re feeling particularly indulgent order a mont blanc with your chocolat chaud, although I warn you that you might not be able to eat for a day or two. Here, it really is death by chocolate.
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CHAPTER
06 Pastry Today
Desserts Trends 2021 2021 - Pastry Predictions
DESSERT TRENDS 2021
From gourmet cookies to single-serve cakes, there’s a lot to satisfy your sweet tooth this year!
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Bhumika Harwani Chef and Founder, The Pastry Journal
“The lockdown has taught more and more people to read labels and has made them choose home churned nut butter, low sugar chocolate spreads and fresh fruit jams instead of supermarket bottles,” shared Bhumika while talking about the high demand for quality and preservative-free items.
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Deeba Rajpal Food Blogger, Content Creator, Food Stylist
“I foresee quick, fuss-free desserts with pantry staples and healthy ingredients (with permitted indulgence if you like - dump cakes, brownie fudge pudding, granola trifles, panna cotta, whole grain bakes) to be on the rise. Basically, desserts with a feel-good factor whether homemade or storebought that consist of protein, no refined sugar, whole grains, good fats, nuts, fruits, clean ingredients.”
“I think this was also an outcome of the lockdown where making desserts with pantry staples was the way to find comfort. It’s a great way to learn what goes into what you eat, and how you have control over ingredients, portions and the quality of what you eat,” says Deeba.
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Victorian Sponge Cake Entremet
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Tejasvi Chandela Founder, Cut Chocolate Cake and Dzurt Patisserie
“Coming from a tier two city I feel like this has just come to the list of trends that hopefully people attempt to make more. I love how layered and complex Entremets are, you can add multiple textures to it and play around with flavours. I personally like to play with familiar flavours for eg; I recently created these at Dzurt. Victorian sponge cake entremet and a chocolate & hazelnut entremet,” shared the pastry chef.
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Rachel Goenka CEO + Founder, The Chocolate Spoon Company
“These have been on trend since 2019 and I don’t see them going out anytime soon. They’re super fun for anniversaries and birthdays and a great celebratory cake. We call our piñata cakes explosive cakes and have a range of flavors like chocolate, rainbow, mango and strawberry,” Rachel told us.
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Vinesh Johny Co-Founder and Chef, Lavonne Academy India and Lavonne Cafe
“While cookies are available in all shapes, sizes, patterns, colours and flavours, they are also extremely easy to transport and store. What makes it even great is the fact that you can always bring them back home and store them for later.
They also pair well with your favourite beverage, making it an anytime snack. I, therefore, think it’s time we take cookies to the next level. With all the experimenting I’ve been doing, I’m certain that gourmet cookies are surely the way forward,” he said.
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2021 - PASTRY
PREDICTIONS
As 2020 comes to a close, bakeries are focused on getting the most out of next year. A key piece to keeping customers coming back and to attracting new ones is to stay on top of the trends that are shaping their tastes and choices. Dawn Food’s insights experts have researched the top trends to understand COVID’s impact, and we’ve turned them into insights you can use as you plan for the New Year and a new approach to selling and succeeding.
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People are Relaxing and Unwinding with Food
26% 16% 16% 15%
are eating “comfort” foods
are stress eating
are drinking alcohol
are eating indulgent foods
Using a sweet treat as a reward is nothing new. Dawn’s trend “Blissful Indulgence” underscores our drive to disconnect with food, wanting a momentary escape from reality with an indulgent sweet. In this year’s COVID climate, our desire to escape has grown. Consumers are more stressed than ever before, with 32% claiming to have severe anxiety.
The consumption numbers prove this to be true. People are turning to food and beverages in record numbers. With this uptick in consumption and with a focus on comfort and indulgence, be sure to work these items into your menu. Think dark chocolate, rich cream fillings, and other cues that take people to a stress-free moment of escape.
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Health Has Never Been More in Style
Trend “Enlightened Eating” tells us that consumers are willing to pay more for food that is free of additives and artificial ingredients and that fuels their bodies while supporting a healthy lifestyle. This trend has taken on new meaning in 2020, with health and immunity being top of mind for most consumers. behaviors to focus more on healthy products would last for six months or more. And, 43 percent plan to continue to purchase health and wellness products after the pandemic is over. What does this mean for your bakery? Invest in better for you products that are free from additives, artificial flavors and colors. You can also tout healthier ingredients like alternative or gluten-free flours, fillings made from fruit, additives like super foods, seeds or healthy nuts; the list is endless. Dedicating a portion of your case for baked goods that make people feel good about their food choices is a smart decision for 2021.
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Support for Local Will Drive Consumer Behavior It’s no secret that small businesses of all types struggled in 2020. To help offset this as much as possible, consumers are seeking to support local businesses when possible. In fact, 71% of those surveyed stated they “would buy food that was locally sourced even if I couldn’t get everything I wanted.“ This gives bakeries an opportunity to hone the story of your business and share it with customers.
Did your grandparents start your bakery? Do you use family recipes that have been passed down for generations? Do you have a scholarship program for student employees? Take the time to develop your history and share it in your bakery, on social media, and even with local news outlets if you have something truly unique. Customers will be happy to support local businesses thrive.
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