NTROUCTION
Wit hin t his public at ion i pros e to explore 2
themes
in
which
were
the
reason
of
choosing my 20 practitioners - feminity and youth culture . These are what drive my interests in the industr y and are therefore a r e a s t h a t I ’d p e r s o a n l l y l i k e t o e x p l o r e i n my own work. Some practiotioners featured are arguably more influential to me than others,
h o w e v e r,
all
the
work
feautured
has sculpted my ideas, styles and direction on this course and where I wish to take my
w o r k ’s
direction
come
the
future.
Grout rose to recognition through the use of her urban dominated photography documenting grime
VICKY GROUT
ar t ists f rom t he li kes of Wi le y to Skept a. Gr ime music
is
arguably
a
culture
of
its
own,
highly
thriving upon its own distinguishable fashion trend of
streetwear
highlights.
–
which
Streetwear
Vi c k y is
Grout
closely
particularly
linked
to
youth
c u l t u r e , a n a r e a t h a t I ’ v e r e p e a t e d l y e x p l o r e d a s i t ’s a d i r e c t i o n o f t h e i n d u s t r y t h a t I ’d l i k e t o f o l l o w i n t o , m a k i n g G r o u t ’s w o r k s p e c i f i c a l l y i n s p i r i n g . U s i n g a film camera, the style of her work can be easily r e c o g n i z e d a n d i s p l e a s i n g a e s t h e t i c a l l y. T h e c u l t u r e she is involved in is known as male dominated, which personally makes her photography massively powerful.
CAITLIN PRICE
B r e a k t h r o u g h d e s i g n e r C a i t l i n P r i c e ’s d i s t i n c t i v e d e s i g n s a r e what immediately took my attention, more specifically her AW 1 6 c o l l e c t i o n . S h e i n c o r p o r a t e s 2 u n l i k e l y s t y l e s t o g e t h e r , streetwear with classic couture, but making the questionable c o m b i n a t i o n l o o k e f f o r t l e s s h o w e v e r. M e n t i o n e d b e f o r e , h e r AW 1 6 c o l l e c t i o n i s o n e i n w h i c h I t o o k a m a i n i n t e r e s t i n , where she teamed delicate satin with thick faux fur in feminine colours
creating
memorable
statements.
This
collection
a l s o e m p h a s i s e s 9 0 ’s r a v e c u l t u r e t h r o u g h t h e u s e o f l o o s e fitting bomber jackets and baggy bottoms, which relates back to a theme I’ve explored massively – youth culture.
DEAN MARTINDALE Dean MArtindale works closely with the fashion industry to create influential photography that can be seen collaborated with
industry
giants
like
Chanel
and
BVGL AR .
His
street style aesthetic is typicially inspired by capturing his subtle posed subjects juxtaposed against the urban enviroment
of
a
c i t y.
This
contrast is notably compelling where
i’m
concerned
as
it
highlights 2 areas in which im
intersted
Streetwear
massively
and
in:
F e m i n i n i t y.
PHOEBE LE -THOMPSO
ETTICE N
P h o e b e ’s d i r e c t i o n o f f a s h i o n c o v e r s a l a r g e p a r t o f t h e i n d u s t r y a s s h e ’s s t y l i s t , p h o t o g r a p h e r a n d a l s o t h e c r e a t i v e director of female brand Illustrated People - this is what s o l e l y t o o k m y i n t e r e s t i n h e r, t h e r e f o r e b e i n g a n i n s p i r a t i o n of mine. Illustrated People is a cutting edge womenswear b r a n d t h a t i n c o r p o r a t e s f e m i n i n e c o l o u r s w i t h ‘ t o m b o y i s h’ designs, which clearly highlights a popular topic of the y o u t h c u l t u r e w i t h i n t h e 2 1 s t c e n t u r y, w h e r e t h e r e ’s n o clear
cut
gender
styles.
Lettice-Thompson
throws
this
confident take on the industr y throughout the rest of her roles, from teaming contrasting colours to daring patterns when styling shoots, she fulfils her attempts of imposing bold statements as a result in her work, this specifically b e i n g a n a s p e c t I ’d l i k e t o p o r t r a y w i t h i n m y o w n w o r k .
MISHA MEGHNA
F o u n d t o s h o o t f o r u r b a n f a s h i o n i c o n’s s u c h a s S i o b h a n B e l l , M e g h n a’s p h o t o g r a p h y h i g h l i g h t s the position that streetwear holds in the f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y t o d a y, a n d s h o w ’s t h i s t h r o u g h colourful shoots. Her work is mainly dedicated to youth culture, which is what primarily took m y i n t e r e s t i n h e r w o r k a s i t d o e s n’ t f e a t u r e high end models in expensive shoots sporting untouchable brands, but instead captures the y o u t h s c e n e o f t o d a y. L i n k i n g b a c k t o t h e p o i n t o f ‘c o l o u r f u l n e s s ’, M e g h n a’s w o r k r e p e a t e d l y withholds red and pink hues that could be related to the theme of femininity – which is something I have also related back to in my work many times, and is therefore a topic t h a t I ’d l i k e t o e x p l o r e f u r t h e r , t h i s m a k i n g Micsha
M e g h n a’s
work
interesting
to
me.
BRICKS
MAGAZINE
Bricks
magazine
is
an
independent
platform,
both
physical and online, that explores numerous topics that a r e c o n c e r n e d w i t h i n t o d a y ’s s o c i e t y. B r i c k s u n i q u e l y u s e s its platform to encourage and provoke conversation on frequently silenced themes, such as feminism and mental illness, ending in the result of an innovative publication. The magazine encourages lesser-known creatives to voice their opinions and showcase their work, this making it easily relatable for me and my current position as a student.
E M I LY Ashcroft works with a film camera to shoot for rebbellious womenswear brand Nastygal. I take a liking especially to the use of the type of camera in photoshoots, as usually film cameras are related to ever yday life phot o g r a p h y, w h e r e a d i f f e r e n t v e r s i o n o f r e a l i t y i s r e p r e s e n t e d t h r o u g h t h e l i k e s o f c r i s p c o l o u r s . H o w e v e r, a s Ashcroft uses this camera specifically for fashion phot o g r a p h y, t h e c o l o u r s o f t h e o u t f i t s a r e e m p h a s i z e d a n d b u r s t f r o m t h e p h o t o . T h i s i s n’ t a p a r t i c u l a r l y p o p u l a r w a y o f s h o o t i n g f a s h i o n h o w e v e r I f e e l t h a t i t ’s g o i n g t o g r o w a s t h i s s t y l e i s t r u l y a e s t h e t i c a l l y p l e a s i n g t o t h e v i e w e r.
CHLOE S H E P PA R D
Film photographer and visual artist Chloe Sheppard clearly illustrates feminine culture within her work, through the use of intimate representation of female individuals. She religiously incorporates pastel hues into her shots to create aesthetically pleasing images that operate in clichés to ultimately overthrow t h e m . M o r e i m p o r t a n t l y, S h e p p a r d i s h o o k e d o n t h e i d e a o f ‘t h e m a l e g a z e’ w h e r e w o m e n a r e t o l d t o l o o k a n d b e h a v e to f it ma les ne e ds, and wants to replace it wit h ‘t he fema le g a z e’ w h i c h f o c u s e s o n t h e b e a u t y o f w o m e n w i t h o u t o t h e r p u r p o s e s . A s a n u p a n d c o m i n g p h o t o g r a p h e r s h e ’s u s i n g h e r platform to tackle cultural conversation on important topics i n s o c i e t y, l i k e F e m i n i s m , w h i c h t o m e i s v e r y i n f l u e n c i n g .
Thai
hibberts
t h a t ’s
linked
minimal closely
to
photography the
hype
is
another
surrounding
both streetwear and urban culture. He captures intimate portraits of individuals in specifically urban locations such as council estates sporting matching tracksuits and although this is a popularly photographed area, Hibbert has a take on the theme that stands out from others – streetwear photography i s p a r t i c u l a r l y p o r t r a y e d a s ‘ h a r d ’, h o w e v e r T h a i depicts his models in a fragile light, due to the intimacy
of
the
interested
me.
streetwear
brands
photos Hibbert such
which has as
has
shot
Supreme
specifically for
multiple
and
Puma.
TH
HAI HIBBERT
OMEWHERE OWHERE
Controversial clothing brand Somewhere Nowehre specifically
expresses
teen
rebellion
in
t o d a y ’s
y o u t h c u l t u r e , t h r o u g h t h e u s e o f u n i s e x s t r e e t w e a r. The Hong Kong based label aims to explore a rich array of colours in their collections and creative direction, which is clear to see throughout their archive and photosho ots. Numerous sho ots delve into expressing feminity and what it means to be the youth of today through the choice of vivid hues and iridescent materials, and these 2 areas being those of which that highly influence my work, this company is completely influential to me.
S t a r t i n g o u t a s a b r a n d t h a t p u t s i t ’s e f f o r t ’s i n t o m e n’s t - s h i r t s , Lazy Oaf has turned into attention mainly feminine wear involving colourful aesthetics, inspired by cartoons and an elem e n t o f “ w e i r d n e s s .” T h e b r a n d i s a l s o k n o w n f o r m a n y c o l l a b o r a t i v e e f f o r t s w i t h b r a n d s n o n a p p a r e l b r a n d s s u c h a s Wa r n e r B r o s . L o o n e y Tu n e s , D C C o m i c s ’ B a t m a n , a n d c u r r e n t l y, B e t t y B oop. I’ve chosen this brand as this alternative take on fashion is a direction I would like to move towards with my style in my projects and interests me greatly as it somewhat challenges the norms of fashion the fashion industr y through its humourous take on designs. The brand also incorporates aspects of street style which is driven by youth culture and therefore is an influencer of my work and where I wish to go with it.
LAZY
OAF
BA GA
L ab el le d as ‘t rashy’ by many cr it ics, for me, Balenciaga
completely
changes
the
game
on
t h e r u n w a y. I f e e l a s t h o u g h t h e y p l a y o n t h i s running
theme
of
trashiness
in
a
way
that
somehow makes it cool. Ever y season beats the last with the clashing of eccentric
vibrant
fabrics and materials.
colours
with
I’ve attempted
throughout my own work to keep a
running
t h e m e o f ‘c o l o u r f u l n e s s ’, s o I ’d s a y i t ’s h e r e w h e r e Balenciaga mainly influences me and my work.
LENCIA-
Colourful label Ashish has been one of my top designers for
numerous
designs
years
popularly
solely
because
question
current
the
vibrant,
problems
delicate
found
in
m o d e r n s o c i e t y, s u c h a s g a y r i g h t s . H o w e v e r , t h e i r S p r i n g Summer’16 collecion was most memorable in my opinion.
ASHISH SS16 The delicacy of the fabric is intruded by bright hued sequins, making memorable statments by matching two opposites t o g e t h e r . T h i s t h e m e o f ‘o p p o s i t e s ’ r u n s t h r o u g h o u t t h e s h o w, e v e n r e g a r d i n g t h e m o d e l s o u t f i t c h o i c e - m a l e ’s w o u l d s p o r t stereotypically female choices, wearing short skirts and flowing dresses, whereas the female were seen walking in broad jackets
with
baggy
trousers,
teamed
with skateboards. This links back to my original pont that the brand tackles current political affairs like LB GT+ rights.
Luxur y British womenswear brand Shrimps was launched in the year of 2013 by London College of Fashion graduate Hannah We i l a n d , e n s u r i n g t h e s t y l e s a n d d e s i g n s a r e y o u t h f u l a n d c u r r e n t . I f e e l i t ’s i m p o r t a n t t o r e c o g n i s e
up
and coming
d e s i g n e r s a s t h e y ’ r e t h e f u t u r e o f t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y, a n d S h r i m p s i s s u r e t o c a t c h m y a t t e n t i o n t h r o u g h i t ’s f e m i n i n e d e s i g n s t h a t p a r t i a l l y r e p r e s e n t s t y l e s f o u n d t h r o u g h o u t t h e 9 0 ’s .
I f i n d t h e t r e n d s f o u n d t h r o u g h o u t t h e 9 0 ’s i n c r e d i b l y a e s t h e t i c a l l y pleasing and would like to show this style in my work more often. The right hand image specifically represents this trend - with the bold statement hat, teamed with a hand dyed , busy patterened dress .
S
SHRIMPS
ERIKA
BOWES
B owe s’ photo g r aphy has i mp o s e d a mass ive i n f lu e nc e i n t o t h e d i r e c t i o n o f s t y l e I ’d l i k e m y p h o t o g r a p h y to head in, especially in the way that she portrays her female models in such a dominant light through posing them in particular ways.
This way in which
she depicts strong and independant females subverts stereotypical beliefs that are formed against women within the society that we live in - making her work both liberating and empowering for women.
Niall McDiarmid focuses on the beautiful reality o f e v e r y d a y l i f e , c a p t u r i n g m o m e n t s t h a t w e ’d n o t even turn a blind eye to. He uses the general public as
his
subjects,
creating
a
surpisingly
intimate
relationship with these characters. I feel his style of photography captures Britain in a new light to w h a t ’s u s u a l l y s e e n a n d e a c h p h o t o t e l l s a o p p o s i t e story to the one before - I highly respect this style of photography as I can appreciate the difficulty in g e t t i n g t h e ‘ r i g h t ’ p h o t o , a s i t ’s p a r t i c u l a r l y h a r d t o c r a e a t e a r e l a t i o n s h i p w i t h s o m e o n e y o u d o n t k n o w.
NIALL MCDIARMID
BAFIC
London-based
filmmaker
and
photographer
Bafic uses the gritty reality of ever yday life and 21st
centur y
technology
documentation,
creating
as an
his
main
eerie
subject
vibe
of
within
his work. His low exposed images and shorts are bibliographical and focus rebellious urban culture.
A B Y FAC E
U n i q u e c r e a t i v e a g e n c y B A B Y FA C E i s a p l a f o r m t h a t voices the work of the young female community in order to create futures for these women. Obviously understandiing the patriarchal society us females are forced into, creators Claire Burman and Nellie Eden took it upon them to create a platform where i n w h i c h w o m e n w o n’ t b e s i l e n c e d f o r t h e i r t a l e n t s against
the
male.
This
company
is
especially
important to me as I feel the creative industr y o n i t ’s o w n i s d i f f i c u l t e n o u g h , t h e n w e ’ r e p u t u p against our male counterparts who are typically more a p p r e c i a t e d i n t h i s d o g e a t d o g i n d u s t r y. A l t h o u g h n o t a d e s i g n e r o r p h o t o g r a p h e r, I f e l t t h i s c o m p a n y was important to include
a s B u r m a n a n d E d e n’s
quirky styles are notable as well as the fact they’ve produced
everything
from
editorial
to
branded
zines, exercise classes, look books, campaigns, video content, panel discussions and a regular podcast on NTS R adio, making their work inf luential to me.
This also teams with my 2 important topics -
F e m i n i n i t y a n d y o u t h c u l t u r e w i t h i n m o d e r n s o c i e t y.
L u h r m a n n’s f i l m s , b u t m o r e s p e c i f i c a l l y h i s t a k e o n R o m e o & Ju l i e t ( 1 9 9 6 ) i s i n c r e d i b l y i n f l u e nt i a l w h e r e I ’m c o n c e r n e d d u e t o t h e w a y i n w h i c h h e c o m b i n e s 9 0 ’s p o p c u l ture
with
S h a k e s p e a r e ’s
most
significant
writing.
The
hyper-colourful world in which this film is set highlight The acclaimed Shakespeare tale already highlights teen rebellion beforehand, however the hyper-colourful world in which Luhrmann sets these renowned characters accentuates these ideas through thought about costumes to intimate scenes..
BAZ LUH
RMANN The cocktail of hawaiian shirts, knight costumees precisely ever
so
and what
satin
white
makes
influcing
and
the
dresses
are
adaptation
distinctive
in
comparison to the majority of other films.
ALASDAI
A l t h o u g h r e n o w n e d a s a p h o t o g r a p h e r , M c L e l l a l a n’s filmmaking is what primarily caught my eye as it is t h e e e r i e e f f e c t t h a t s o m e w h a t r e p r e s e n t s t h e 1 9 8 0 ’s that stands out the most to me. His work is greatly dependent on mis-en-scene – this is how he so clearly represents adolescence in both a grunge-y and gritty way also making his work effortlessly distinguishable. As mentioned before, his work rem i n d s m e o f t h e 1 9 8 0 ’s t i m e p e r i o d , w h i c h f u r t h e r s my t hou g ht s to rel ate h is work to ‘St r ange r T h i ng s’ which quite clearly represents youth. This idea of adolescence and signifying youth culture is what brings my main interest to his photographic style.
R MCLEL-