Childrenswear Market Report | THIRD YEAR IFB

childrenswear market report

project title: Childrenswear Market Report student name: Ella Swanson student number: N0827963 module number: FASH30014 module name: The Contemporary Global Fashion Market supervisor name: Jo O’rourke word count: 2104 words

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THE MARKET 3-10

who’s dominating?

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covid-19 impact 11-14

using social media 29-34

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the major influences 15-22

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around the world 35-40

introduction This report will investigate the high-street level of childrenswear by investigating what is influencing the market and what brands are doing in order to dominate this level. It will also explain how the COVID-19 pandemic has affected sales of childrenswear and changed the way consumers are purchasing.

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childrenswear market

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HAUTE COUTURE LUXURY BRANDS DESIGNERS DEPARTMENT HIGH STREET HIGH HIGH STREET LOW OFF-PRICE RETAILERS

the market

levels & aspirations

The fashion market is segmented into different market levels depending on who the brand wishes to target. As you can see on the left, Shaw and Koumbis’s levels of aspirations clearly displays how the retail market is divided by price brackets (Shaw, 2018). Childrenswear is no different and can be purchased in supermarkets all the way up to haute couture.

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DISCOUNTERS SUPERMARKETS MARKETS CHARITy SHOPS CLOTHES-SWAP PARTIES *fig 1: koumbis and shaw’s levels of aspirations (2020), own model.

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11%

increase in sales

the market

6.7bn

past, present, future

The UK childrenswear market has seen an 11% increase in sales between 2014 and 2019 (Euromonitor, 2019). This growing market is predicted to grow further in 2020 to a value of £6.7bn (Drapers, 2020). This evidences that this is a growing and lucrative industry which is influencing many companies to begin producing childrenswear lines and brands. Currently, the market has a few dominant players but it is highly competitive as their market shares are close in value (Mordor Intelligence, 2020). According to Euromonitor, the ‘shifting demographics including a “baby boom” in 2011’ are responsible for the growth in the category (Drapers, 2020).

value predicted by end of 2020

2011 baby boom responsible?

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the market

dominant players

The childrenswear market covers clothing from newborn to early teenagers.

Most brands divide these into their own categories of clothing in order to make the buying experience easier for the customer. As well as this, different age brackets of children have different needs for their clothing. Newborns need clothing that is easily removed in order to make the parents lives easier where as an older child may have more input into how they dress and need clothing that appeals to them.

The dominant players within this market are Next, Primark and Marks and Spencers (See Appendix A). They have shares ranging between 8.4% and 4.5%. There are a lot of other brands that have a share of this market but the majority of these have around 1%. This indicates that the market is able to change as there is not a wide gap between those at the top and those at the bottom (Passport, 2019).

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self-actualisation

self-esteem

covid-19 impact wants & needs

love & belonging

safety needs

physiological needs

One of the major current impacts on the entire fashion industry is COVID-19 which has dominated 2020’s headlines. In March 2020, the UK was put into lockdown meaning that all non-essential retail had to close (BBC, 2020). This led to many fashion markets struggling to hit targets as consumers were stuck at home. However, due to the nature of childrenswear this sector continued to sell and became one of the main fashion markets that continued during this time.

According to Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs (See right of page) there are basic needs that all people need to survive and feel safe (Haslow, 2017). Childrenswear falls under physiological needs which means it’s not a surprise that the ‘demand for children’s clothing has spiked since the closure of UK schools in March.’ (Walker, 2020). This highlights that the childrenswear market is full of essential items still needed to be purchased during a lockdown. In addition to this, parents are used to their children’s school uniforms taking the ‘brunt of wear and tear five days a week’ but found themselves needing to purchase clothing that will allow their ‘growing, active children’ to play during the ‘long days at home’ (Drapers, 2020).

*fig 2: maslow’s hierarchy of needs (2020), own model

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covid-19 impact e-commerce importance

In addition to this, 1,688 babies are born every day in England meaning that there was still a consistent need for newborn clothing during the pandemic (Gov, 2020). A newborn babies clothing cycle is shorter than an older child leading to more clothing being purchased. Amazon Fashion found that within the childrenswear segment, ‘infant wear was the most sought after’ (Sirdeshmukh, 2020). The ‘two-time spike for new-born baby clothing’ suggests that infant wear is a driving force for the childrenswear market (Garg, 2020).

Anusha Couttigane, a principal fashion analyst at Kantar, suggested that brands who had a ‘robust offer online’ could take advantage of the increased need for children’s casual play clothing (Drapers, 2020). As lockdown stopped consumers being able to access stores they had no choice but to go online for their product needs. Brands that already had a ‘strong e-commerce offer’ found that customers already felt comfortable navigating their way around their sites and therefore felt confident shopping online with them. An example of this is Next, with their online sales ‘up 11.9% to £2.1bn in the year to January 2020, compared with £1.8bn in retail store sales’ (Drapers, 2020).

They managed to continue to gain great sales online through lockdown as their online website was familiar, reliable and accessible for customers.

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major influences pestle analysis

The childrenswear market is heavily influenced by a wide range of factors. The inspiration can come from anywhere around the globe and any industry - whether it’s food or a political change. This PESTLE analysis will explain what macro trends are currently having an impact on the childrenswear market.

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political

Political movements and issues have effects on most markets and childrenswear is no different. Politics can have a huge impression on the fashion industry as shown in the past with Vivienne Westwood’s anti-brexit clothing at London Fashion Week 2019 (Vogue, 2019). It is not rare for these messages to make their way to childrenswear. In 2020, both Black Lives Matter and the US Election are at the forefront of many consumers lives and they want to be able to show their political opinions through clothing. The key word, ‘vote’, has been the fashion ‘must have look’ for the fall season in America and has been seen on celebrities to babies (The Guardian, 2020).

economical

As of August 2020, the UK went into their first recession in 11 years. The recession will have a huge impact on many fashion companies as consumers may have less disposable income due to growing unemployment (BBC, 2020). The recession has led many businesses to think about their marketing strategy as they try to continue making profits. Laura Tenison, founder of JoJo Maman Bebe, stated that her company has days where they ‘take no money’ but were surprised to see that their village and community stores are doing better than anticipated (BBC, 2020). This links to the ‘In the Neighbourhood trend’ suggesting that consumers no longer wish to travel out to the city to purchase but can get everything they need either online or in their local shops (McKinsey, 2020). This trend may not boost the economy but it may change the way that the UK’s economy works and how companies strategise.

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social

During the first UK lockdown in March 2020, Joe Wicks ran a scheme called ‘P.E with Joe’. This scheme was aimed at children and encouraged households all over the world to tune in, join in and commit to exercising in their living rooms.

This scheme was hugely successful with a ‘record breaking number of 955,185 households tuning into P.E with Joe’ on the first day of it launching. This created a buzz around keeping children active and fashion retailers found that their sales in athleisure wear for children aged 8-12 increased. Abhishek Ganguly, the general manager of Puma India, found that ‘Family workouts to keep kids engaged increased the demand for performance wear’.

technological New technological advances have allowed for the development of a different type of childrenswear. Petit Pli, has developed clothing that comes in one ‘continuous size’ which is ‘suitable to high growth rate in children’. The use of technical materials which are ‘ultra-lightweight … rainproof and breathable’ allows the child to be fully comfortable and dynamic (Petit Pli, 2020). This concept could be a great opportunity for brands to invest in as children growing rapidly creates a lot of waste.

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legal

The childrenswear industry within Europe have an additional set of safety standards that they need to comply with. As children are growing they are less aware of their safety than an adult would be and therefore ensuring that their clothes are safe is essential. The ‘Safety of children’s clothing’ policy ensures that cords and drawstrings on children’s clothing will cause no harm. It’s also important for companies to ensure that the ‘burning behaviour of children’s nightwear’ has been thoroughly tested and checked.

environmental As more research has been conducted into the effects of chemicals in clothing, brands are turning to more sustainable fabrics to be used in childrenswear.

Chemicals that are used intensely can be ‘harmful to the natural environment’ as well as being harmful to ‘babies and children wearing finished garments’ in ‘extreme cases’ (Julian M Allwood, 2006). Many consumers are now demanding that the brands they shop from are more sustainable meaning that businesses need to fulfil that demand. Material-led innovation ‘tends to fall within the control of most designers and buyers’ meaning that companies are able to become more sustainable without ‘ground-shaking business reform’ (K. Fletcher, 2012).

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who’s dominating?

The COVID-19 Pandemic had a significant influence on ‘ecommerce and online consumer behaviour’ (Statista, 2020). In early 2020, millions of people had to stay in their homes meaning that online shopping channels were the best way for them to obtain essentials including clothing.

In June 2020, the ‘global retail e-commerce traffic’ had a record ’22 billion monthly visits’ as consumers found it to be the best alternative to shopping in store (Statista, 2020). In order for brands to thrive during the pandemic they had to have a good online presence. Interestingly, the brands with higher shares in the childrenswear market in 2019 had a high online portfolio which meant they were in a strong position prior to the pandemic.

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high online presence

who’s dominating?

Similarly, Marks & Spencers hold a high share of the childrenswear market with a strong e-commerce offer for consumers. Unlike Next, they only sell their own clothing ranges but have partnered with companies such as Disney and Marvel to create unique clothing that children love. Marks & Spencers have a good reputation within the fashion industry and therefore appeal to older consumers who want to purchase good quality garments for the children in their family. The Marks & Spencers team shifted away from ‘Sunday best to more casual ranges at better value’ in 2020 in accordance with the casual wear trend coming from COVID-19 (Marks & Spencers, 2020).

high shares

As you can see in the perceptual map (see right of page), the brands with the highest online presence also have the highest shares in childrenswear. As previously mentioned, Next has a large online portfolio with their sales up ’11.9%’ in January 2020. Next offer their own clothing lines but also have teamed up with other brands such as Nike, Hype and Ted Baker (The Times, 2019). This has allowed the Next online platform to become a one stop shop for parents as they purchase their children’s clothing from all their favourite brands.

low shares

perceptual map

low online presence *fig 3: perceptual map (2020), own model

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who’s dominating?

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winners v losers

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In comparison to Next and Marks & Spencers, Primark has no e-commerce option for their consumers as they rely fully on footfall in their stores. Due to all non-essential retail closing in March 2020, Primark had no alternative way to make profits and their lost revenue ‘amounted to £650m a month’ with their sales in their first quarter ‘down 75%’ (Financial Times, 2020). This would suggest that their shares in all market levels would drop. However, Finance Director John Bason suggested that the strong demand once retail stores reopened would assist in them meeting their targets for the year (Bloomberg, 2020). Demand had been predictably high for childrenswear when Primark reopened and they found they had a last minute burst of sales when the government announced children would be returning to school. Primark is still in a ‘fluid’ state with unpredictable sales as the UK continues to deal with the pandemic (Bloomberg, 2020).

Brands that are not keeping up with changing consumer behaviours are losing shares and failing to appeal to their target markets. Mothercare went into administration in 2019 after ‘failing to adapt to the world of online shopping’ (Inews, 2020). In 2010, Mothercare had a 4.6% share in Childrenswear but held only 1.6% in 2019 before they went into administration (Euromonitor, 2020). This is a significant loss as those who have the main shares of the market are in the region of 4.5% to 8.4%. This evidences that brands need to change their strategy as their consumers grow and change in order to stay current in the market.

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social media

what are the winners doing?

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social media

lifestyle not product

Next and Marks & Spencers have similar marketing strategies when it comes to their social media pages. Brands at this level in the market are trying to appeal to families and show that their brand is a lifestyle not just a shop that sells products. Both Next and Marks & Spencers have taken this approach as their instagram feeds contain a mixture of product shots, natural family photos (wearing their products) and homeware staples. This is to try and entice their customers to become loyal to their brand as well as potentially influencing consumers to purchase from other product categories. They have similar levels of followers with Next having 1.7 million and Marks & Spencers having 1.6 million (See Appendix B).

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social media

the right influencers

Both brands use influencers in order to engage with their consumer base however their strategy is different to one another. Next collaborates with influencers by sending out products and reposting photos of influencers children/family photos. They may have done this to build a rapport with the influencer and their followers as this may lead to more engagement. Marks & Spencers, however, use their collaborations to show how their products were versatile and could be used all week. They collaborated with @life_with_ ivycoco and created a challenge where her and her daughter had to take a photo everyday in M&S clothing. This challenge created great interaction with both @life_with_ivycoco’s audience as well as their own. It also taps into the micro trend of ‘mini me’ where parents match outfits with their children.

Social Media, particularly instagram, ‘continue to be the main driver of minime-mother-daughter dressing’ and ‘drive likes and engagement’ (Business of Fashion, 2018).

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north america $37,907mn

europe

$43,056mn

asia pacific $61,838mn africa & middle east $15,184mn south america $11,642mn australasia $2,143mn

around the world This report has mainly focused on the UK childrenswear market but this market stretches internationally and differs from country to country. The childrenswear market is growing across the globe as Asia Pacific, the Middle East and Africa and the USA all see an increase in their childrenswear sales. The largest market across the globe is the Asia Pacific which was valued at 61.8bn USD in 2019 (Euromonitor, 2020).

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* childrenswear market size by us million in 2019 (SEE APPENDIX c)

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around the world

asia pacific

Although the largest market for childrenswear is the Asia Pacific, it is largely driven by luxury childrenswear as opposed to high-street level. In China, specifically, the ‘one child policy’ led to parents ‘overindulging their only child’ and therefore led to a boost in luxury childrenswear sales. However, as the Chinese government adapted the policy to ‘two children’ Les Enphants Shanghai (the leading mother and baby specialist in China) experienced ‘rapid retail value growth sales’ (SCMP, 2017). This market is different to the UK as they have a ‘healthy and growing middle class’ that have the disposable income to spend on luxury childrenswear (Luxuo, 2017). The high street market within this region is not as popular as it is in the UK as Chinese parents look to luxury brands for their products as they are seen as ‘more presentable and … more acceptable’ in society (Daxue, 2016). Interestingly, the way that Chinese parents shop is also different to the UK as ’91% of … mums use their smartphones to compare prices for childrenswear on online platforms whereas just 44% of mothers of a similar age in … Britain do so’ (SCMP, 2019) . This evidences the difference between Chinese and British consumers not just in terms of the products they purchase but in how they source them.

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the end

The childrenswear market in the UK will continue to grow and will become increasingly competitive between brands. There is opportunity for brands with low market share to become more dominant in the market as there is not a large gap between those at the top and those at the bottom. The brands that are successful have a strong online presence with a diverse portfolio of brands and licensed products that appeal to children. Brands such as Next and Marks & Spencers are successful as they appeal to families by selling a lifestyle rather than just products.

This is shown through their product ranges, their social media and their marketing styles. Ultimately, to be successful within the market brands need to ensure that they are adapting along with the consumer to stay relevant and popular.

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Sharma, J., 2017. Why Chinese Parents Invest In Luxury Children’S Wear. [online] South China Morning Post. Available at: <https://www.scmp.com/magazines/style/fashion-beauty/ article/2125186/why-chinese-parents-invest-luxury-childrens-wear> [Accessed 7 November 2020].

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image references fig 1

Fig 1: Koumbis and Shawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Levels of Aspirations (2020), Own Model.

fig 2

Fig 2: Maslowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hierarchy of Needs (2020), Own Model

fig 3

Fig 3: Perceptual Map (2020), Own Model

appendix A

appendix B

appendix C