Cambridge News | cambridge-news.co.uk | August 3, 2013 | 21
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food & drink
Awards time for pub THE Black Bull in Balsham is one of six regional finalists in the 2013 Great British Pub Awards, representing the East Midlands and East Anglia in the category of Best Freehouse. Organised by the leading trade magazine, The Publican’s Morning Advertiser, the annual awards recognise the industry’s top licensees and best pubs. The winner will be announced
៑ ELLA WALKER visits Cambridge Brew House and is wowed by the vibe, but the food not so much . . .
O
H, it’s chic in the Cambridge Brew House. I’ve pottered in for drinks before and cooed over the vintagestyle lampshades and worn wood surfaces; had a swoon on the roof terrace when it was so hot the pavements seemed to be slowly melting in the sun. And, on said occasions, I’ve also had a cider in one hand, and the other just about under control as boards of crispy fish and “English tapas” whirled by. It’s not polite to steal chips from strangers, you know. So, my hopes were decidedly high as, starving and in need of a serious sugar hit, my mum and I snuck in for a mid-week meal. And I’ll tell you now: if you’re hungry it does just fine. If you want food that makes you dribble and sigh happily, not so much. But back to the décor: spruced up retro bus seats, antique ice skates with soft leather straps, tea lights in china teacups, pots of herbs as table centrepieces (some wilting forlornly – but prettily all the same), odd cutlery (that’s a good thing) and comfy cushions. It’s just lovely in there. After mentally buying up half the restaurant, we got down to ordering from a rustic, brown paper menu (seriously, the attention to detail is brilliant). I opted very quickly for the twice-cooked sticky beef in homemade BBQ sauce with handcut chips (£12.50), while my mum chose the steak burger with melted cheddar on a sour dough bun with handcut
If only dinner was as good as the decor chips and smoked garlic mayo (£10), topping it up with a sliver of crispy bacon (£1.25). To be honest I don’t really understand why places brag about having handcut chips – and these ones were clearly confused about whether or not they were meant to be chips or wedges. And sadly, I reckon they plumped drily for a not-sohappy in between. Covered in salt and mayonnaise though, they did the job and soaked up the sticky, slightly sweet BBQ sauce. The beef, three huge hunks of it, looked amazing and fell – apparently tenderly – to pieces with only a little nudge of a fork. However, despite the promising start, it required a whole lot of chewing and the sauce just wasn’t up to moistening it. I could have done with a jug of the stuff on the side. At least the salad dressing added another level of tanginess. The burger (which, despite being a steak burger, you can’t get cooked to order), was just a burger. It wasn’t that special – sure, it came in a nice bun and ticked all your usual burger boxes, but a McDonald’s double cheeseburger has more lipsmacking ‘mmm’ factor. Still, you can’t fault the size of the portions – they are massive: we couldn’t finish the chips and, even after a 20-minute walk/waddle home, were still too full – or the presentation (giant chopping boards, crisp white plates, dinky jars of condiments), but the attention to detail seemed to just shimmer on the surface, it didn’t delve into the actual food. Who cares if it’s pretty when it tastes mediocre? Or is that too harsh? We decided to persevere by ordering pudding (I know, we’re pigs). The cheeseboards looked pretty amazing (the Brew House cures some of its cheese, fish and meats on site), but my stomach lining was aching so I went for a soothing bowl of ice cream (three scoops for £3.50).
taste test The Cambridge Br 1 King Street, Ca ew House mbridge, CB1 1LH Telephone: (0122 3) 855185 Email: info@ thecambridgebre whouse.com Website thecambridgebre : wh Restaurant open ouse.com Food is served fro ing hours: 9.30pm, Monday- m noon until Saturday. Roast dinner: Sunday, Breakfast: Saturda noon-9pm. y and Sunday, 10-11.30am. Cost: Dinner for two, drinks, came to £4including 2.85. Food: 刀刀刀 Service: 刀刀刀 刀 刀 Atmosphere: 刀 刀刀刀 Value: 刀刀刀刀 刀
Hoping for refreshing, I got sweet and tangy instead in the form of one scoop of pear and vanilla (impressively it tasted exactly like plunging your teeth into a frozen pear), and two scoops of gooseberry and elderflower. Tart, zesty and buzzing with sugar, it was good but might have worked better as a sorbet. Mum’s chocolate and orange tort (£5), was suitably decadent though, served with cream and red berries. Densely chocolatey, it hit the high end notes of the choc-orange world (Terry would be proud), but was a tad heavy . . . I’m sorry, I really do wish I could be more enthusiastic – and as pub grub it doesn’t fare too badly – but the problem is, everything is presented so smartly, so beautifully, that with every bite I willed the meal to be as slick and detailed as the décor. Perhaps I expected too much.
on September 12. You can find out more about The Black Bull – sister pub to the award-winning Red Lion at Hinxton – at blackbull-balsham.co.uk
Pick up a picnic IF you’re looking to soak up the last of the British summer rays, why not do it in Italian al fresco style with a Carluccio’s picnic hamper? Whether you’re relaxing with friends and family or treating a loved one, there is a delicious hamper to tickle your fancy – all packed with regional Italian flavours. The Classic Grown-ups Hamper boasts a sumptuous three-course meal starting with Antipasti Misti (olives, balsamic onions, juicy artichokes, caper berries and speck), followed by a fresh pearl barley salad with broccoli, rocket and toasted hazelnuts, and goats cheese and red pepper tarts. Next it’s summery chicken supreme with a parsley, breadcrumb and tarragon
crust, served with pesto, red onion and a spicy salami salad. All this is rounded off by two indulgent strawberry and balsamic tarts. Each picnic hamper is freshly made on the day to serve two and costs £45. There are vegetarian options too, and individual hampers for kids can be purchased for £10. You can visit Carluccio’s in Grand Arcade, Cambridge.