ediblediy
voilà, soufflé!
By Ellen Jackson
photos By steven Jackson
e
very cook has a selection of “greatest hits” in his or her repertoire, along with the classics and golden oldies. More often than not, these are the recipes that have been passed down from one family member to another, generation after generation, reminders of childhood favorites, family celebrations and birthday dinner menus. Pretty standard fare, and not the first place you’d look for a soufflé recipe. Besides, who ate soufflés growing up? My mom is an accomplished cook, and she’s fed me plenty of classics over the years, but I don’t recall a single soufflé. So, when I decided that my repertoire was incomplete without said classic, rather than call her, I reached for the red spine speckled with tiny gold fleur-de-lis that sits on my kitchen bookshelf: Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking. In moments like these, it’s best to turn to a pro. For me, Julia Child is mentor, muse and megastar all rolled into one very tall, extremely likable woman. I watched her on PBS as a kid, and as an adult, I’ve read everything I can find about her, which makes me feel as though I know her. I hear her reassuring voice when I’m reading certain recipes—Boeuf à la Bourguignonne and Coq au Vin—and adopt her confidence as she explains simply, carefully, how to prepare pâte à choux or a classic soufflé. When I say “classic,” you’re probably thinking chocolate. While I like a romantic, dramatic dessert as much as the next gal, if I am able to demystify the infamous soufflé and persuade you to make one (because, truly, anyone can), wouldn’t you prefer to get dinner out of the bargain?
14 l edible portland Spring 2009
It seems fair to call a cheese soufflé the savory sister to the classic chocolate soufflé—every bit as rich, tall and proud. Whether it features chocolate or cheese, a classic soufflé is made up of two components and a shared technique: a flavor base containing egg yolks lightened with whipped egg whites, baked until risen.
While that may sound easy enough, the reality is that soufflés are daunting to many. The key to success is in the eggs, and here are a few must-dos when handling them. For starters, make sure that all the equipment used to beat the whites is scrupulously clean—any traces of fat or soap on it will prevent the whites from foaming. Then, to get the most volume from your eggs, bring them to room temperature by placing the whole eggs in a bowl of warm water for ten minutes. Finally, when separating the eggs, use three bowls. Crack the egg over the first bowl and carefully pass the yolk back and forth between the halves of the shell until all of the white drops into it. Put the yolk in the second bowl, and then transfer the whites to the third. That way, if a yolk gets into the whites as you’re separating, you will only have to discard the one egg (which you can refrigerate and cook up the next day). The base of Julia Child’s cheese soufflé is a white sauce made from butter, flour and milk, cooked together in a pot on the stove until it becomes thick and creamy. Next, the egg yolks are added for richness and color, then seasonings for depth of flavor: salt, nutmeg and paprika. Finally, the egg whites are beaten until they hold smooth, stiff peaks, and then folded ever-so-gently into the base along with a generous handful of grated cheese. Gruyère or Comté is nice and feels appropriately French, but with several local cheeses made in the style of Gruyère available, Northwest is perhaps more appropriate.
Cheese Soufflé
After you’ve spooned the soufflé mix into the baking dish, run the end of your thumb around its inside edge to encourage an even rise and put it in the oven. (If you need to set it aside before putting it in the oven, keep it in a warm place free from draft and cover the dish with a big, tall empty pot—the mix will keep its volume for up to an hour.) Once it starts cooking in the oven, the heat causes the minute air bubbles in the egg whites to expand, which forces the whole thing to puff upward. Resist the urge to open the door for at least 20 minutes; the part about a soufflé being most fragile as it begins to rise is true. Instead, find a bottle of wine and call your dining companions to the table. Your soufflé is finished when it’s nicely browned and puffed beyond the rim of the baking dish. Don’t dilly-dally. Get it to the table quickly; this soufflé is no different than any other—a visual spectacle that vanishes before the first spoonful can be savored. To serve, lightly puncture the top with two serving spoons held back-to-back (to delay the collapse) and slowly tease apart for serving. Then, just sit back and bask in the glory of your first soufflé victory, solidly won, and dinner to boot. If you listen closely, you’ll realize that Julia is playing a song you can add to your own repertoire. eP
Ellen Jackson is a Portland-based writer and food stylist.
According to cheese expert Tami Parr (see story on page 20), three Northwest cheeses made in the style of Gruyère may be substituted in this recipe: Estrella Family Creamery Valentina, Mt. Townsend Trailhead, and Rockhill Creamery Wasatch Mountain Gruyère.
2 Tbsp finely grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup milk (use whole if you have it)
3 Tbsp unsalted butter
3 Tbsp all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp salt Several gratings of fresh nutmeg Pinch cayenne pepper (optional)
5 large eggs
1 cup coarsely grated Gruyère, Comté (the French
equivalent) or Gruyère-style cheese
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and position a rack in the lower third. 2. Separate eggs into two bowls, one for 4 of the yolks and a second bowl for whites. Butter a 6-cup soufflé mold and coat the bottom and sides with the Parmesan cheese. 3. Warm milk over medium-low heat until steaming. Meanwhile, melt butter in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in flour, then stir until it starts to foam without browning, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 1 minute. Whisk in warm milk. Return pan to heat; cook and whisk until thick and creamy, about 3 minutes. Add salt, nutmeg and cayenne. Add 4 yolks to the saucepan, one at a time, whisking after each. Scrape base into a large bowl and cool to lukewarm. 4. Add a pinch of salt to egg whites and beat by hand, or with a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, until stiff. They should hold their shape when gathered in a dollop on the whisk and held upright. Check frequently; they’ll look dry and lumpy if over beaten. 5. Fold one-third of the whipped whites into the base. Add remaining whites in two additions, sprinkling the cheese in at the same time. Do not overmix. Turn soufflé mix into the baking dish, place in the oven, and reduce temperature to 375 degrees. Bake without disturbing until puffed and golden brown on top, about 25 minutes. The center should jiggle only slightly when the dish is shaken. Serve immediately. Adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child
edible portland SPRING 2009 l 15